Same as what I do, but I grease the puller threads. Helps snug up the puller and protects the threads. Couple taps and they usually pop. If they dont, I let it sit with PB overnight and often times i’ll come back next day and it pops off on its own
If you are in a cold climate just put some teflon tape on the puller. Put some water in there tighten it up and stick it outside. when it freezes it comes right off. use that method for ones that just will not come.
I've heard pros and cons on using impacts on clutch pullers and heat on the clutch. But at the end of the day you do what works. Well done video and thanks for posting.
He doesn't want to rattle the crank with an impact, but is willing to pound on the puller with a hammer. I have been pulling Comets with the impact for 20 years, and rarely do they come hard, never have I beat on my puller with a hammer or used heat. Zip and they are off. I do not use an impact pulling flywheels, I feel that is a different situation.
An impact gun only applies impact in a circular motion not impacting crank bearings. Hammering end of puller definitely is a no no that directly puts all applied forces of hammer into crank and doing damage.
So far just removal. I have some video of disassembly. Also Primary roller replacement. With racing season in full swing, I have been failing to get it all edited and loaded, but will be getting those things done ASAP. What kind of info are you looking for? I may be able to help and/or put that on the list for new videos!
The crank bolt on my 1999 500 ZR seems stripped, as I keep turning and turning it's not backing out. Any tricks or thoughts on how to remove it and get to the primary clutch? I tried prying on the clutch while turning the bolt to see if it would catch some good threads, but no luck.
I Would get the puller backed out however you can. Then use the water method to remove the clutch. I've got a video showing how to do that. Probably be tricky to get the puller threaded out of the clutch, but unless you want to damage the clutch or crank, you'll want to find a way.
FYI the service manual says to "hit the end of the puller sharply with a hammer". So not love taps like he did and dont pound it like its a 4 inch spike, just a solid sharp slap and it'll pop right off, and not hit the floor cause you werent being a man about it. Hope that helps.
@@longtinmotorsports ya I just watched his video not saying he don't know what he's doing he got it off just took a while with beating on it I took mine off today to clean and inspect and tried the water trick and it took like five turns and popped right off without a hammer thought it was great didnt believe it though
i am trying to get my primary clutch off today since we have no snow and i have the day off. I ordered the clutch puller outline in my service manual. Of course its the wrong friggen puller, grrrrrrrrrr
Use heat before hitting. All that hammer banging is directly putting force on the crank bearings! Never hit! Best heat is with a hot air gun. Apply torque, then heat.
The standard puller for all the old arctic cat stuff is 9/16-18. That covers a large number of years, but somewhere around 2010-2011 they started using a metric clutch. Those threads are 14x1.5. Hope this helps
Scott, this should be the right one www.ebay.com/itm/125111653577?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sKLlFjG8R_O&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Wvv_emctRDm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Arctic cat Service manuals state it right in them. And no one is hitting bearings. Hitting the clutch puller. If you understand how the puller works, you understand why hitting it with a hammer wont do any damage. Good luck with your own repairs, buddy!
@@longtinmotorsports i saw a video of 1000hp snow mobiles with billet CVT cases Are the internals the same? And where to get the ultra performance CVTs for drag racing??
Same as what I do, but I grease the puller threads. Helps snug up the puller and protects the threads. Couple taps and they usually pop. If they dont, I let it sit with PB overnight and often times i’ll come back next day and it pops off on its own
If you are in a cold climate just put some teflon tape on the puller. Put some water in there tighten it up and stick it outside. when it freezes it comes right off. use that method for ones that just will not come.
Been racing for 45 years. Always used an impact. Don't have time to fiddle around with a wrench & hammer. Impact wrenches won't hurt your crankshaft.
Suit yourself!
I've heard pros and cons on using impacts on clutch pullers and heat on the clutch. But at the end of the day you do what works. Well done video and thanks for posting.
Use an impact driver first. Then if all else fails get out the big boy 😄
He doesn't want to rattle the crank with an impact, but is willing to pound on the puller with a hammer. I have been pulling Comets with the impact for 20 years, and rarely do they come hard, never have I beat on my puller with a hammer or used heat. Zip and they are off. I do not use an impact pulling flywheels, I feel that is a different situation.
Really no different actually. But hey, you're the expert. 🤣
An impact gun only applies impact in a circular motion not impacting crank bearings. Hammering end of puller definitely is a no no that directly puts all applied forces of hammer into crank and doing damage.
Thanks for the video hard to find stuff on older equipment...have you made any on the adjustments for them
So far just removal. I have some video of disassembly. Also Primary roller replacement. With racing season in full swing, I have been failing to get it all edited and loaded, but will be getting those things done ASAP.
What kind of info are you looking for? I may be able to help and/or put that on the list for new videos!
do you happen to know what puller you have there ? i have a 1996 a/c panther deluxe 440, looks to be the same clutch
The crank bolt on my 1999 500 ZR seems stripped, as I keep turning and turning it's not backing out. Any tricks or thoughts on how to remove it and get to the primary clutch? I tried prying on the clutch while turning the bolt to see if it would catch some good threads, but no luck.
There is usually a nylon spacer in there. Try grabbing with a needle nose and pulling it out
What would you do if the puller snapped off in the clutch threads? That’s where I’m at now…
Happened to my atv had to cut the clutch off luckily I didn’t damage the crank
I Would get the puller backed out however you can. Then use the water method to remove the clutch. I've got a video showing how to do that. Probably be tricky to get the puller threaded out of the clutch, but unless you want to damage the clutch or crank, you'll want to find a way.
You are a good mechanic , Thank You
Thanks 👍
FYI the service manual says to "hit the end of the puller sharply with a hammer". So not love taps like he did and dont pound it like its a 4 inch spike, just a solid sharp slap and it'll pop right off, and not hit the floor cause you werent being a man about it. Hope that helps.
Got it off without your help 🤙 Thanks.
I hydro lock all my clutches off and I have all the correct pullers, hydro locking eliminates the possibility of damage to crank or clutch.
I think I like water trick no hammer needed that will damage your machine
Whatever works best for you! Hard to deny the versatility of fluid pressure as a tool.
@@longtinmotorsports ya I just watched his video not saying he don't know what he's doing he got it off just took a while with beating on it I took mine off today to clean and inspect and tried the water trick and it took like five turns and popped right off without a hammer thought it was great didnt believe it though
7 minutes of wasted time to watch him miss the important part and drop it floor
Hello Steve. Thanks for wasting you time with me 🤣
i am trying to get my primary clutch off today since we have no snow and i have the day off. I ordered the clutch puller outline in my service manual. Of course its the wrong friggen puller, grrrrrrrrrr
Use heat before hitting. All that hammer banging is directly putting force on the crank bearings! Never hit! Best heat is with a hot air gun. Apply torque, then heat.
Got it.
The correct way is to use the proper clutch holder, grease on the threads, and an impact
it is the correct puller, you grease the end of the puller, and an impact is optional. Thanks!
what are the threads on the clutch puller ?
The standard puller for all the old arctic cat stuff is 9/16-18. That covers a large number of years, but somewhere around 2010-2011 they started using a metric clutch. Those threads are 14x1.5. Hope this helps
@@longtinmotorsports Thank you . I want to change crank seals on my 77 500 cc pantera and 86 500 cc cougar again thank you
So. Impact wrench no Good.. But smacking your end play with a hammer is safe.? Makes sence.
@@newt20002 what end play
my clutch part number should be according to the manual a p/n 0725-146
Scott, this should be the right one www.ebay.com/itm/125111653577?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sKLlFjG8R_O&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Wvv_emctRDm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
or this one epiperformance.com/primary-clutch-puller-pcp-5/
Somehow hammering laterally across the bearing in the crank is less damaging then rotational force from an impact. I strongly disagree.
just what the book says 🤷♂️ do it how you want
Bashing the Crank End bearings with a hammer isn't a smart thing to do?? Glad you're not working on my Sled Buddy.
Arctic cat Service manuals state it right in them. And no one is hitting bearings. Hitting the clutch puller. If you understand how the puller works, you understand why hitting it with a hammer wont do any damage. Good luck with your own repairs, buddy!
@@longtinmotorsports i saw a video of 1000hp snow mobiles with billet CVT cases
Are the internals the same? And where to get the ultra performance CVTs for drag racing??
This was painful to watch
🤷♂️