How to Make YOUR AVATA 2 More CINEMATIC!
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- EVERYTHING you NEED to Know to Make YOUR AVATA 2 footage as Cinematic as possible!
Sound design Video - • Why Sound Design is th...
DJI D-Log M conversion LUT - www.dji.com/sg/downloads/soft...
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One flying tutorial that I can't find anywhere is how to orbit a moving subject.
There are plenty of videos describing how to do a simple circular orbit. I can do a pretty decent manual orbit, but if that subject is moving I feel completely lost 😂
Orbiting a moving subject is a tricky one because you have to constantly manage the flight depending on the movement of the subject. It's much easier to orbit a stationary object because once you're in the orbit you can basically hold the sticks in the same place and keep it going. But with a moving subject you have to increasse your angle and power whilst your on the chase leg whilst relaxing pitch a little, then doing on the leg where you're going the other way you need to reduce power and speed and tighten the orbit to stay on the subject. It's a pretty complex manoeuvre to do well. If I can get someone to be a moving subject for me in the future, I'll try to cover this! 😃
Great tips! Congrats on the continued growth, Justin!! Keep grinding 💪
Thank you! I'm still going 😂
Cheers mate for all the infos 🤘🏻 good job and nice footage you're having 👌🏻🤙🏻
Your welcome mate! Thank you! 🤙
Thanks Justin! That is a great set of tips and nicely put together. I've been using exactly the same settings and approach so good to know it was the solid one 😉
You're welcome! Thanks for the good feedback! Yep, it looks like you're already on the right track then! 😃
Wow! Man! Instant subscribe!
I never ever write a comment on youtube, but.. You give here so much "sauce" :) in just one video in a highly digestible way with fun, chillout vibe and humor!
I'm sold! Keep up good work and enjoy making those vids!
Thanks man! Feels nice to read comments like this! I'm glad you got a lot out of this video and enjoyed the vibe. Welcome to the community! 😃
Great video. I’m a beginner to all of this but you make it easier to understand. Thanks!
Thank you! I'm happy to help! 😃
Thanks for all the tips, great video, I learned a lot 👍🏻
You're welcome!
Just ordered my Avata 2, and your footage, is an awesome watch. Just subscribed to your channel also. Well done 👍 and again thank you 🤩
How exciting! You're going to love it! I'm glad you're enjoying the footage over here. Welcome to the community! 😃
Thanks for all the great information!
You're welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
It's amazing how easy it is when setting it on 'head tracking' to get into that bad habit of looking down. I made that mistake and one of the footage I felt ruined as it was just looking at the ground. Really is just training to having your head looking at the horizon line and following whatever direction.
Useful tips and I'll definitely be setting that advanced settings to set to minus for more control manually over noise reduction, a useful tip, thanks!
Yeah it's best to focus on where you're heading when using head tracking, ulness you're doing an orbit or something. Yep Sharpness to -2 is a must too. Alot of the AVATA 2 footage I see of overly sharp.
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome! 😃
Excellent informative video, as always 👍👏
Thank you! Glad you found it useful! 😃
Awesome video thanks
You're welcome! Happy to help! 😃
Another great vid bro!
Thanks bro! 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT ✌️
I am not happy with the quality of the video after stabilizing the footage in Gyroflow. I feel that in H265 in loose a lot of quality after export. I will go with IS ON and ultrawide from now on. Thanks again Justin. Another great content.
Yes, sometimes I also feel like the quality isn't quite as good from Gyroflow, too. It should be the same as it goes in, but it could also just be the fact you lose resolution anyway during stabilisation due to the footage being manipulated. Yeah, give Rocksteady a try. I wasn't much of a fan of it until this version. It's much better now that it's been previously.
I love the sunrise LUT you have, please do a video on it :)
Thank you! 😃
Excellent! Jotted down the cam settings in my notes to give it a try next time out. The audio in your flight "clips" is the game changer for me. Makes me really want to step up my game. I'll have to go watch your vid on that specifically.
Questions if I may. First, I'm in Florida, and it seems similar to your locale. What is the highest ND filter you have to use in blazing midday sun? Sencond, and slightly off topic, what and why are the burning bails in the rice fields? Does it serve a purpose, or just a simple burn pile? I ask only because we have smudge pots for our citrus groves, but they are used to heat the groves, but that surely doesn't seem the case for "your" situation. Just curious.
I appreciate your guides and inspiration. Good stuff as usual, and thanks again.
Hey! Yeah sound design really makes things SO much better. I find myself using the ND16 most often. If I film in 30fps, which is rare, then I use the ND32, but generally, in this area and conditions, the ND16 does the job. I'm pretty sure that the farmer is burning off the old rice plants. After they have shaken the rice grains from the plant, they dry both the grains and the rest of the plant. I guess they're burning the dead dried plants to get ash for spreading on the crop again. Also, rubbish disposal isn't as good in Indonesia, so it's common to see small fires by the road as people just burn their rubbish.
Great video with great tips. I believe that if you want to use Gyroflow on your recorded footage then you need to record in 4:3 (not 16:9) and in Wide (not ultrawide) and with EIS off.
Have heard that Gyroflow can't work if any of those are set differently?
You can record in either 16:9 or 4:3 for gyroflow. Just need to make sure it is set to wide with EIS off yes. I didnt mention this in the video because I thought it was pretty common knowledge at this point. I just wanted to offer some setting to use in the software. 😃
Thank for a great episode. If you made some orbit tutorial will be great.
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Yes, maybe this could be something in the future 😃
Very detailed video. Thank you for it! For sunrise and sunset, do you still use 1/120 without a ND filter? I find that sometimes even a ND4 filter makes it too dark. Does it still give motion blur without a ND filter? Or would you recommend other settings?
Hey! Yep still use it without an ND when the lighting is right I.e. sunrise/sunset. The shutter speed relation to frame rate is what gives the motion blur. The ND filter simply helps us to control the exposure 😃
Nice work bro my only problem is i dont know how to color grade🤨👍👍👍
Totally loving your videos, i would love yor LUT file, any chance of a video with Davinci. I have been messing with it but not too hot at it.
Thank you! I'm glad you're enjoying them! Haha maybe I'll get it ready so that you can download it. I won't be covering Davinci unfotunately. I use Premiere pro and have only played with Davinci a couple of times and didn't get along with the interface too well. There will be some great videos out there that could also help you too😃
Time for me to get onto Premier Pro 😁😁
More good tips Justin
Thank you! 😃
La Macarena with motorcilcy could be coll! 😂 💃🏼🛵
This is very helpful Justin.
Thank you! 😎🙏
Q: Roughly what white balance numbers would you manually input for sunrise and sunset, and roughly what numbers on a cloudy day?
I use an ND8 if it's cloudy and an ND16 midday sun but still notice the exposure setting fluctuate below -07 and above 0 in some situations.
This happens with all the settings that you mentioned in this vid.
The exposure numbers I have heard should be around -03 to -07 or no higher than zero.
Exposure is confusing me 😅
Thank you!
I tend to go around 5800-6000k, but it all depends on the day. I don't stress too much on getting it bang on at sunrise/sunset because I can easily adjust colour temp in post so as long as it's somewhere near, it'll be fine. Heck, I've even forgotten to change it from 5500k before and still been able to adjust in post to make it look right.
I think you're worrying too much about the EV number. It's going to be changing all the time as you fly and the lighting changes. That's why we lock our settings so that the exposure isn't constantly changing and making our shot look unprofessional. In some situations, auto exposure is necessary, but for most outdoor stuff, it's not. As long as it's somewhere near 0 for the direction you're filming, it'll be fine. It's always easier to correct under exposed footage in post than it is overposed. But I think you're maybe overthinking it. I rarely even look at the EV because I'm looking at the image and checking my highlights aren't blown out, and I've got details in the shadows, if that's the case, I'm happy. 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT Thank you so much mate.
Yes, I do over think things at times.
I'll try those white balance settings for sure. 🙂
I appreciate your help. 👍
What free fpv game you suggest for practicing with dji fpv remote controller 3? Thanks for this great video.
Hey! FPV Skydive is a free simulator you could try 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT thanks bro😎👍
Hi Justin, the stuff about settings in gyroflow is really useful too, no one else really covers this - awesome stuff mate. With sharpening and noise at -2, do you just sharpen in your video editor?
@arunr5529 Hey! No problem, mate, it bugs me seeing people using sub optimal settings in gyroflow haha. Yeah, sometimes I sharpen a bit in post, but 95% of the time, I don't
@@JustinBainbridgeYT interesting when I flew over the ocean today I found the footage was a bit soft so I might need to just sharpen a bit in da Vinci resolve. Maybe I’m just used to looking at footage from my Mavic three pro.
@@arunr5529 I find FPV footage always tends to look a bit softer that Mavic footage due to the fact you're moving much faster and the FOV is wider. Yeah you can easily add some sharpness in Resolve. I just find these smaller sensors oversharpen with stock settings and it can create weird artefacting in some situations. 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT thank you makes complete sense
Justin: "Make sure you're putting yourself in a location where you're not gonna have any sort of external factors that could distract you..."
Also Justin: *Stands in middle of road wearing FPV goggles* 😄
Great tips again though; taking note for my upcoming holiday!
Hahaha Yep, luckily that is a closed road that just leads to an active volcano 😂
I absolutely love your video. I have one question i can't wrap my head around and its about the EV setting. If I'm doing nothing wrong its not possible to change this settings by yourself and I'm wondering what effects this setting. When i apply all the "right" camera settings and it is very bright outside the EV value is around -3 and now i could work with ND Filters to bring this number closer to 0, right? Or are there other circumstances that influence the EV?
Hey thank you so much! Yep you got it right on the head there. an EV of 0 is what the drone thinks is optimal exposure, in most cases this is right but sometimes you will want to have either a lower or higher EV depending on the look of your shot. The main use for this is in Auto camera settings where you can modify the EV manually to make the camera try to maintain a brighter or darker image depending on the value you set. For manual settings it gives you an idea of if your close to being corectly exposed, but it will still fluctuate alot whilst you fly but this is fine. Just try to expose correctly using the ND and you should be golden. I rarely even look at the EV I just look at the image and make any ISO or SS changes needed for the optimal exposure. Hope this helps! 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT Update: I applied all our settings and went flying 30min ago. In addition with your tips for color grading my footage looks awesome now. Thank you very much!
thank you for this video! a question: you fly in this shoots in manual? What settings do you use to fly in manual mode? did you change anything in the settings? did you change the rates to be able to do these cinematic flights?
Hey! Yes I changed the rates from default. I made another video talking about my cinematic rates for the Avata 2 and FPV3 controller - ruclips.net/video/F6Wk7sPZOm0/видео.html
@@JustinBainbridgeYT thank you!!!!!
Great video. I enjoyed watching it. Can you explain how do we loose details when cropping 4:3 to 16:9? Basically you only cut top and bottom portion of the video to make it 4k 16:9. From my understanding 4:3 is using whole sensor and you dont loose any fov or quality. Only image in the goggles is smaller.
To make a square image into a rectangle you've got to scale it up so that the square fills the rectangle so you're always going to lose some resolution unfortunately. At least that's my understanding anyway.
@@MarkBowenPiano not if the rectangle is smaller than the square, i.e. a cropped square...
@@MarkBowenPiano We are dealing here with pixels. Square image is 3840x2880 resolution. I have checked and you are not loosing or gaining any horizontal FOV by recording in 4:3. In fact we are gaining vertical FOV here. To make 4k from 4:3 we are removing height pixels from top and bottom making 2880 to 2160. No details should be lost if we consider 4:3 is full sensor 1:1 pixel
@@ZOX1337 I thought 4k was 4096 X 2160?
@@olabergvall3154 @MarkBowenPiano I have just found video from Drone Wilder talking about this topic. You can search him here on YT. I was shocked that 16:9 is actually stretched 4:3 image. So 16:9 is distorted image compared to 4:3 crop. In the end recording in 4:3 will give you the maximum image quality and no lens distorsion
Thanks, Justin do you have any recommendations for where you’ve sourced your sound effects?
Hey, I think I already mentioned about the camera angles on another comment but I also get all my audio from Artlist.io
A free alternative would be to try pixabay.com/sound-effects/ that's another place I reccomend looking 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT Yes you did, sorry, I wrote that twice :). Thank you , Artlist has always looked great but a bit pricey until you end up doing this stuff professionally (which I'm looking to do)
Great info Justin I’ve been flying in 4.3 all the time for the sake of being able to crop 16.9 & vertical from the one clip but makes sense to only use 16.9 if you’re only using that particular footage for YT think I’ll do that from now on 👍🏻 also been using gyroflow all the time which takes so long to render a clip but your footage looks good with Rocksteady so I might try that too with ultrawide in particular shots see how it goes, will also change my Noise reduction and Sharpness @ -2 in full sunlight. I shoot only in 4K30fps my eyes must be used to it LOL doesn’t seem to bother me so I’ll keep that setting. Have a question: the rice terrace in Ubud how are you flying there on sunrise goggle says it opens at 8am I wanna get there early should I just rock up will they let me in before sunrise?
I’m taking the fast boat to Nusa Panida tomorrow to film all day at Kelingking/diamond beach in between battery charges with the Avata and BOB57 keen as F mate tracking on my own if you got nothing on 😅 be at the Sanur port by 7 come back in the arvo 😉 anyways Good tips mate thank you. I’m loving Bali only got 1 week left been flying heaps. Cheers mate.
Thanks, mate! Yeah, you can still film in 4:3 for the flexibility if you like. I still keep experimenting with different things all the time, and it actually turns out that 4:3 does record more pixels so you dotn actually lose resolution on the Avata 2, whereas you used to previously. So there's no harm in using 4:3. But I also like to just have the clip set to go in 16:9. I was using Gyroflow for all my stabilisation and still do on the GoPro, but Rocksteady on the A2 is so good I just let it do the work and save me hours of rendering. Yep ultrawide is nice. You do get some picture warping at the edges so if you don't like that, you can stick to wide. But see what you think. Yeah just rock up to the terraces, they're not locked or anything and the locals will be happy to see you anytime of the day haha. There's always people at them for sunrise. Ah, sweet! I might have joined you on that if I'd known a bit sooner haha. Enjoy the island and let me know if you want to fly in the next week sometime 🤙
@@JustinBainbridgeYT thanks for the reply mate, so probably best to just keep using 4.3 then I reckon 👍🏻 arh yeah man I only just made a last min decision last couple hours misses flew back to Java today to pick up our little one from the grandparents she’s back Thursday arvo I know couldn’t get anymore short notice if I tried LOL I saw your video and had a brain storm to see if you’re keen got a Gojek to pick me up at 6am all good brotha if you change your mind you’ll see me at the port I got BOB57 hanging off my backpack 😅 yeah would love to catch up for a flight while I’m here it’ll be fun so I’ll get in touch after tomorrow Im flying Ubud Wednesday then Lembongan Thursday to do the yellow bridge! And will do some local morning trips until I fly back Tuesday night cheers mate 🤙🏻
@explorerfpv haha I like your style, got to make the most of it whilst you're here. I'm based in Ubud, so give me a shout before you come here, and we'll go rip some packs.
@@JustinBainbridgeYT yeah that would be awesome I’ll talk to you tomorrow when I get back and I won’t leave it too late 😂 cheers mate chat soon 👍🏻
Yeah man sounds good! Drop me a message on Instagram - instagram.com/justinbbridge/ 🤙
Thanks, Justin. What would you recommend in terms of a gimbal angle? Generally I’m going with anywhere between zero and 10° at the moment.
@arunr5529 i generally use these angles. 10 for slow stuff, 20-25 for medium speed, and then 35 for high speed 🤙
@@JustinBainbridgeYT thanks for being so forthcoming with all of this information
Generally speaking with cinematic footage, aren’t you looking for slower stuff? I’ve spent about 30 hours between Sim and drone getting used to manual mode now but I’ve played it safe with the gimbal angle.
@arunr5529 it really depends on where you're filming. If it's a small location, then yes, nice and slow is fine. But if you're out in some big fields or surfing mountains, it'll take forever to get anywhere going slowly and the footage will likely feel quite boring, so you really need to fly faster to get better footage in larger landscapes. Obviously, it all depends on the style of shot you're going for, but generally, you fly faster in larger locations. Hope this makes sense
Makes complete sense you’re helping me become a better FPV pilot a lot more quickly so thank you
Ever have any trouble with lighting that changes when having your settings locked?
Not really to be honest. I cant remember a time where I've had issues with lighting on manual settings. If I'm doing somehting like an indoor to outdoor transition then I will let the drone use Auto ISO if I cant balance the exposure, but just flying cinematic outdoors. I've never had an issue 😃
Hi Justin... Which one is better.. O4 camera or the Hero 12?
They're both very similar in my opnion. I think personally I prefer the O4 camera, but I still like using the GoPro on my freestyle, It just easier for me to colour match the DLOG M footage between different cameras. Also the dynamic range is very good on both. When the O4 air unit is released I will be ditching the GoPro's on drones and just using the O4 camera. I love it! 😃
@@JustinBainbridgeYT ..thanks bro. Loving your review. Keep it up!
Will you be creating Luts and selling them
At the moment I have no plans to do this. I do feel a lot of the "LUTS" for sale at the moment are not amazing and it feels like everyones trying to sell you LUTS. Something about that kinda puts me off it. But if there was enough demand then I would consider doing it. 😃
Are you aware of the firmware bug that can crash your drone if you have an impact in manual mode, then try to brake (or switch to normal mode)? Seems the impact resets the internal compass of the drone, so when you switch to positional-GPS, the drone tries to orient itself to what it thinks is level and slams into the ground. Happened to me, and at least one CC on YT.
Yes, I am aware of this. I have seen quite a few examples of it, and it happened to one of my friends, too. Like you said, if you have a heavy impact, it can throw the IMU out and give the IMU error. Then, when flicking to normal/sport, it just flies off at some crazy angle, and you don't have control. It's a very weird one, and it might not be fixable in firmware. It could be that the new chipset is more sensitive to impacts. The only thing to do is if you see the error after a crash is not to go into a stabilised mode and instead land in manual, disarm, and then power cycle the drone. Luckily, I haven't seen it, but I've only had one crash with the A2. I tend to be a bit more careful with it as I know it's more fragile. But yeah, it might be a hardware issue, and something we have to just be aware of.
@@JustinBainbridgeYT yeah I was thinking it might be good to make as an awareness video. I've seen a lot of A2 videos, but I never saw or knew about this until it happened to me a fortnight ago (and even then I've only seen one). Now busy trying to get DJI to recognise it's a drone error, not operator error (the logs confirm the drone was attempting to 'brake' when it crashed itself).
First!!!
hi
maybe i didn't see but you forget to talk about the rate in your RC
Hey! I didn't mention it in this video, but I have a full video talking about my rates for the Avata 2. 😃 Here it is - ruclips.net/video/F6Wk7sPZOm0/видео.html
@@JustinBainbridgeYT 😁thank you
#DJI presently has a new air 3 priced the same as their refurbished air 3. Someone made an oopsie.
You are providing conflicting information. First, I do think Gyroflow is a MUST if you want great results. You show gyroflow settings, but then you say you shoot in 16x9, RockSteady, Ultrawide. You can't shoot RS & UW and still use Gyroflow. Second, if you shoot 4:3, you will likely end up with HIGHER resolution. If you shoot in 16x9 and use gyroflow, it has no choice but to crop in on the 16x9 when the drone banks into turns. The software won't have to zoom in so much if you have a 4x3 square to crop from.
Regarding frame rate: For FPV footage that has more action, going up to 60FPS is likely a good thing anyway. Personally, I have found that 60FPS with 1/60th of a second (360 shutter) works very well for a cinematic look. It's somewhat interchangeable with 1/120 (180 shutter) which is just a bit sharper.
Regarding composition, putting the horizon in the middle is not great. Follow the rule of thirds. Either make two thirds land and one third sky, or do the opposite. Putting the horizon in the middle is a very amateur mistake, and should be avoided unless you have a specific reason to do this. (Like if you are doing a roll and you want it centered.)
Hey! I'm not trying to provide conflicting information, I'm just offering suggestions for both options.
I was initially just going to not talk about Gyroflow but I wanted to share the settings I have had the best results with. I still use it regurlarly for my Gopro FPV footage.
Yes I shoot with rocksteady 99% of the time on the A2 it does a good enough job for me and It would take a lot longer to stabilise everything in GF for each of these videos I make for marginally better results with a smaller FOV.
I see where you're coming from but you already lose resolution during the crop and you are still restricted by the width of the footage so the difference is marginal and I'd rather keep the resolution, but each to their own.
Yes! I also like 60fps at 1/60 shutter in some situations! But I want to get people on the right track first by teaching the 180° shutter rule.
Regarding the horizon, I also said that the horizon should generally be closer to the upper line. With FPV you know as well as I do that the shots are so dynamic that completly focussing on keeping the horizon on that upper line will likely lead you to get worse footage instead of taking advantage of the flexibility we have with this flying camera. I wanted to give a range to aim for so that the footage will be somewhere near. With FPV the horizon is always moving around and we need to allow for that and give a bit more space in my opinion.
For stabilised drones I 100% agree, rule of thirds should be more strictly followed but for FPV its more dynamic and fun, so our compositions need to be more dynamic too. Hey sometimes, rules are meant to be broken.
@@JustinBainbridgeYT Yep I agree. I didn't mean to come off sounding like a jerk or anything. Overall great video! Thanks for the detailed response! :)
Flying in the forest ultrawide is ok, but thee sea horizon was terrible.... I would use normal mode for the sea video
ND 16 in the middle of the day? Sure?
Most of the time for 60FPS Yes, Only really need to go to the higher 32 if you're shooting in 30fps. But it also depeds on your location. If youre shooting in the snow you'll likely need a stronnger grade of ND because of how bright and reflective it is. 😃