Watts Water Pressure Regulator Replacement Of Previously Repaired One
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- After six years of a successful previous $10 fix, it was finally time to replace the 1 1/4 inch Watts LF25AUB-Z3-S-DU regulator. First part of video covers the replacement. Second part is disassembly of the old one to check how the $10 parts have held up over the last 6 years.
Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:30 - Old & new regulators
1:07 - Shut down & drain water
1:43 - Remove old regulator
5:20 - Install new regulator
9:07 - Turn water back on
11:20 - Pressure adjust
11:47- Dissemble old regular to check previous $10 fix 
Наука
Please continue making such videos. How about a video on how to replace entire kitchen sink?
Great job… I love stuff like this. Don’t see it much anymore, ppl want to just throw things away and buy new without even trying …
Thanks for taking the time to show us the inside of the regulator I know now what I am up against
A couple years ago I saw your video on your fix, It got me to subscribe. I just replaced mine at the time because I was getting a water hammer and pipes bouncing. The kits are harder to find than the actual valve, I think mine was 3/4" and I just used the stock 60psi setting.
I just watched your initial repair video literally yesterday. Today, RUclips recommended this video, I was like, well, that hack didn’t last long...I watched this one and realized that you posted the original video a few years ago...
Actually about 6 years ago. It would probably have gone a few more but (swag!) I think the shaft had become too corroded to move easily and was sticking open, indicated by the near street pressure I measured before changing it out.
Thanks, now it's easy
Is this 1 1/4" regulator for a multi-family building, or some other application with high water demand? For a single family house, I would have modified the plumbing with reducers to install the much cheaper 3/4" regulator.
looks like yours is a male/male version. Do you remember the exact "sub" model for the part? As you said, Watts has some confusing listings for their products.
Where did you buy the prv replacement? I have hard time find the prv with that fitting
I am about to replace exact same unit as yours but this time I order LF model instead of DU S model includes the union fitting to save some money since I’m using the old fitting as you did. As I read the description it says no o ring and no gasket. Now I’m running into problem. Could you help me on the o ring or gasket size on both end since we have same exact unit. Looks like I’ll be receive the valve today. Thanks in advance.
Great video. Very helpful. Curious-would you happen to know if the watts brand is ‘top of the line’ compared to others? Mine is a 1/2” that’s gone up and the watts brand is double the cost of some others. Thx!
Not sure
Could you tell what caused the valve to fail this time? Was it the o-ring, or was the hole that the o-ring rides in too rough/corroded, or something else? I guess that the bypass valve could also be leaking. Was the disc you made 6 years ago still in good shape? Any idea as to the durometer of the disc? My valve (also 1-1/4") doesn't have the double union, so not as easy to replace the entire unit.
Not really sure but suspect the hole for the o-ring. The inside of the hole needs to be very smooth so any mineral build up (which there was a lot) would tend to scrape it as it moved.
The 1 1/4” valve has more capacity (GPM Gallons Per Minute) than the 3/4” valve size. If you have a 1 1/4” valve and reduce down to 3/4” size you might not have enough capacity for your demand on you system.
awsome videos! What were the symptoms of the house that made you suspect you needed to replace the regulator. I'm at a loss. my pressure sits at 65 psi, but the moment i turn the back yard hose it drops to 0. If I one of the toilets it drops to 20-25 psi and we just have to wait for it to come back up. Any advice?
Purely prophylactic. The parts I made on that first fix were not "factory" so I didn't expected them to last much longer.
Just a SWAG, but if you have to "wait" for the pressure to build back to 65, that would suggest a restriction in the flow (gpm) going into your regulator. First thing I'd check is the filter screen inside the PRV (if there is one). If you're on a residential water system with a water meter, it's possible it or the pipe from it to your regulator is damaged. If you're on a well pump, it my not be supplying enough volume (gpm) to your regulator.
@@otd80 Its a city system. I checked the meter with all the water in the house shut down. The meter doesn't turn. I know that if its turning it would mean a leak. So I dont think there is a leak. I'm not a plumber at all. But I suspect that the pressure coming in is fine but the PRV is not allowing the water in fast enough yet keeping it at a propper 65 psi when it gets there. Thats the only reason I suspected it.
It is outrageous that you cannot buy just that disk (flat washer/seal) and the o-ring. The lowest price I see on the kit is $109
What prv did you replace it with? Was it the same exact model?
Yes. That is why it went in so easily without any coupling changes required.
@@otd80 Got ya! Well thanks for that information, it was quite helpful! I appreciate it very much!
3/4 watts over 2000.00!!!!!!!! FOR A PRV....your killing me i got a big problem i dont know how to fix it and i dont have that kind of money...what can i do...danny from pennliyvannia..its not my e tank...
Install new pressure regulator