La Sportiva Skwama Review: If Cinderella had a climbing shoe
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The La sportiva Skwamas are an excellent pair of climbing shoes for indoor and outdoor rock climbing. Whether you're a boulderer, a sport climber, top roper, or trad climber these shoes are an awesome shoe to have in your arsenal.
Easily one of my top 3 shoes I've ever owned and highly recommend it to anyone looking for that perfect fit.
Looking to buy your own pair? Support the channel by buying it from this link from EpicTV:
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Probably worth mentioning they do stretch a bit maybe just under half a size so size them tight-ish and make sure you use the plastic in the box in the shop to size to fit. I have a 40.5, 2x40 and 39.5 and have gone smaller over time. 40 is prob the sweet spot for me so would be happy to order more of that size online if I couldn't get to a shop. Also make sure to cut the plastic sheet in half and then use for 1-2 sessions. I always leave outside in a breeze/sun or next to a heater for 5-10 mins to dry out after a sesh. As you mention the heel is one of the best and works on all styles of climbing for me. I am now quite happy just taking one pair of shows to the crag instead of multiple.
Couldn't agree more! I tried on like 6 or 7 pairs when it was time to get a new set and as soon as I put these on I knew they were the ones, exactly like Cinderella 🤣
As you said, the heel just fit my foot so perfectly unlike any other shoe I've tried on and is nice and rigid so it really gives a lot of confidence on aggressive heel hooks, especially when compared to my warm up Evolves. My foot doesn't move at all in it, I don't recall a single time this shoe popped off my heel even when heel hooking hard af with a sweaty foot.
The P3 rand is amazing too, it does a great job of distributing the stress of a toeing a small hold across the back of my heel which, again, adds a ton of stability and confidence even on tiny little foot chips.
Used them for several years, got them resoled and everything, and it's finally time to get a new pair and I tried on the solutions but they just don't feel the same. The red/poppy wasn't out when I first got them and even though they're apparently only available in Europe rn I sprung the extra $25 for shipping because they're just so damn sexy!! Waiting for them currently, so freaking stoked! 😁
I will say that when purchasing a climbing shoe what's most important is how it fits YOUR foot, so I always recommend trying on every shoe you can get your hands on before committing to one, but if the Skwama does fit for you, I can guarantee that it will perform!
Final thought, I don't have much experience with softer rubber, but I've never had a problem with stiffness or grip with these shoes, and personally I prioritize the longer lifetime of a slightly stiffer rubber higher than any comfort or performance gain, especially because as I said I've never had any issues with grip with these shoes and they're certainly comfortable enough too
If you love the skwamas definitely reccomend trying the theory as well. Great shoe as well haha
If I were to only climb indoors and am a relative beginner, would you still recommend this shoe or somthing else?
I LOVE the Skwamas! Have you thought about getting a pair resoled after you've worn through the original rubber, with XS-Edge instead perhaps? :) Cheaper than a new pair, already broken in AND will last longer!
Haha yeah thats the plan but probably not xs edge. Im thinking something like neofuse or trax sas. I just prefer thr softer stuff
@@BeorOng Bit late to this, but you might want XS Grip if you like soft! XS Grip is about a 70 durometer whereas Grip 2 and Trax SAS are about 74! And I think NeoFuse is about 70 as well, though I haven't been able to track this one down.
Awesome review Beor! I don't even need shoes but I kinda want a pair of these bad boys now 👀
Haha need is a strong word...theres so much enjoyment just trying out different pairs haha. Next pair to review are the evolv phantoms. Recording the footage and writing up my thoughts now haha
I know this is an older review, but it was helpful. I've been indoor climbing (mostly top rope with a little bouldering) for about 4 months ow 3-4 times per week, and my current shoes are La Sportiva Taratulace. They are good shoes, and I've been happy with them as I've been getting started in climbing, but as I've been progressing I have found that I have a natural tendency to smear a lot. I often feel like I don't get the grip on that technique on harder routes as I'd like with the Taratulace, so I'm thinking about new shoes and the Skwama is at the top of my list at the moment. Would this be a shoe you'd recommend for me?
just got sized w a pair today! thanks for the insight:)
Ayeeee awesome haha trust me you'll love em. I think its a fantastic shoe for sure
For the ladies out there! If your foot is too wide for the women's version of the skwama, these men's ones are a great option to still enjoy the shoe! My little toe hurts in most shoes but this one has the perfect snug fit. And honestly, I like the color of this one better than the women's version as well lol (they always make the women's versions with some sort of pink haha)
They have to start doing these as neutral imo...pink for girls and blue for boys is so outdated lol
The women’s version fit me a lot better and a lot tighter than the men’s 😅
@@builtdifferent8106 my first pair of shoes were womens as well cause of how small my feet are haha. At first I cared that it was "womens" now its just whether it fits my foot lol
@@BeorOng yeah same it doesn’t really matter to me if it fits well I’m rocking them 😂
@@builtdifferent8106 noobie mistake to base it off looks haha
I just got a pair for christmas and they are amazing! The heel fits like a glove and can heel hook on the tiniest of crimps
Haha glad to hear! How are you finding the break in period? It softens up pretty quickly imo and honestly the fit makes it even easier
@@BeorOng Gyms are closed cuz of lockdown here in england so I've had to break them in at home but i've only worn them about 3 times for about half an hour and already they're getting more comfortable. I just need gyms to reopen so i can try them properly on the wall!
I got these shoes yesterday, thanks for the great and informative reveiw!
ayyyye welcome to the skwama club haha
@@BeorOng :))))))
great vid mate!
Thanks man, definitely love this shoe honestly cant wait to see how it handles after I resole it
Would you say better than solution comp?
I havent actually had a chance to try solutions, mostly cause the strap is a big problem for a lot of people and not really keen on dropping 300 dollars just for them to break after a month... but soon cause I know a lot of people want it
Great video bro
Ayo! Got a pair of these but sorta worried of they too tight?! When you first got them did you experience unholy pain when standing on an edge?
haha thats the story of my life with most new shoes I buy. What size are your feet normally?
@@BeorOng I'm about 11.5 exactly but normally wear US12. Got the skwamas in a 43.5 or 10.5US
@@Strozy ah got it yeah i sized a size and a half down (street shoe size 7 -> skwama 5.5 US) so your sizing should be good, just gotta break em in
@@BeorOng How much time in hours do you think that takes?
@@Strozy mmm my sessions are usually 2 hours, id say it should soften up in about 5 sessions, at least enough for it not to be super painful, that being said honestly i cant remember. The aggresiveness tends to ease off as well over time (mine are almost completely flat at this point)
How would these compare to like the theory
so overtime the skwamas have softened to quite a high degree, it still fits wonderfully, but it doesnt really pull down to maintain that downwards aggression. The theorys on the other hand are still going strong on that front. The heel is whats interesting, the skwamas have a big bulge of a heel but the vacuum suction feels fantastic inside, litterally no chance for it to move at all. The theory is a thinner heel but it also low volume, so while not a vacuum fit, it really grabs around your heel to fill in that space. Id also say the skwamas have an an all round bigger toe box, so my theorys feel somewhat tighter, but if you have quite wide feet the skwamas would be better. I also find tht the skwamas overall have less wear on it overall, but might just be how im climbing with either shoe
@@BeorOng ok thanks!
These or the theory?
Thats a tough one, but id put the edge on the theory since the smaller heel will most likely come in handy in more situations
I literally found a pair of these in the fucking trash can at my gym. Needless to say, they are now mine.
hahahahha thats a win if ive ever heard one, dude I LOVE my skwamas and kinda sad Ive worn the through.... Im saving it to make a resoling video though
@@BeorOng I would be interested to see that. The ones I now have might need a resoling too.
@@grounded9586 just waiting on lockdowns to end down here
@@grounded9586 yeah dude i wanna see if i can resole them with my choice of rubber... would be awesome if its possible
@@BeorOng that's an interesting thought. That would be sick.
ive always considered getting a pair, maybe now is the time!
Let me know how they fit if you do! Oh and if you do use my affiliate link in thr description, gotta pay those bills you know haha ;)
@@BeorOng no problem man! thanks
@@Barelyboulders haha legend
I just got a pair of Skwamas, I found the rubber is incredibly sticky outdoors and it's my go-to outdoor shoe for everything now.
But indoors it is a little slippery but it isn't a deal-breaker at all.
Yeah for me since indoor is still majority of climbing (outdoors is a few hours away) my reviews are a little biased towards that. But i completely agree i think that the shoes otherwise flawlessness is still 100% worth buying. I take it you love the fit as well? Haha cant go wrong if it fits
@@BeorOng the fit is perfect, the way it just sucks in your heel is a game changer.
@@bryceieboy haha i wish all heels fit this way...I understand why some people would want it baggy to conform in certain areas...but personally it doesnt feel right for me... the heel cup fit feels amazing
@@BeorOng Think i saw Lysterfield in the video right?
@@bryceieboy wow good eye yeah it was, the mantle was a fun problem that slab part is sketchy though haha
I know you said expect a bit of delaminate on the toe patch, but my pair experienced quite a lot of it, and in multiple spots around the toe patch... Not sure if I got a defective pair or not, but it was certainly frustrating to see. It started already two weeks after purchase, and I can't say I necessarily toe hooked a ton during that time...
Just bought a pair and I’m normally a uk8 and I got a uk6, they feel very uncomfortable when I’m breaking them in so do u think they will feel better after they are broken in or do u think they are too small
Hey. How did you get on with these after breaking in?
Any update on how they fit after the wearing in period? I'm the same shoe size (8) so helps for ordering onlinr
I've been walking barefoot last 5 years, which can change your feet, skwamas feel amazing. For me the heel is suction cup tight with the right size
a little bigger toe box for me
very helpful
How long did it take for the skwamas to break in? Just got them n they r murdering my toes
Takes me always around 5 climbing sessions. Even after stretching out, they always „hurt“ a little bit. Been going through 4 pairs and it s one of my favourite climbing shoes.
How is the sizing works in this shoes? You guys go under your street shoe size? And how much? Thanks
I think i said 1.5 sizes down..but its in the video
I love the shoes, only weakness I find is I break through the rubber after 2-3 months. Could just be a me thing... I have a habit of never taking them off and walking around in them. What could I do to make them last?
id have to gauge your experience level tbh, as in theres the question of how you are placing your feet, are you dragging them around or being super accurate on the wall, the other thing you could do is resole them using a harder rubber like vibram XS edge though you'll sacrifice some sensitivity with that one, using a second pair for outdoor only use would be the other option as outdoors is a bit more on the rough side of things, honestly 2-3 months is about right if youre climbing in only 1 pair of shoes like 3-4 times a week, maybe 4-5 is better though, I would just say make sure youre resoling rather than buying a new pair to save money
i had mine for some eyars now, havent break trough teh rubber, climb alot ewvery week
Have you resoled these shoes by now?
If yes, what rubber did you put on em?
i did have them resoled they are using neofuse now which feel quite nice
Sooo much comfier than the solutions is what I think
thats actually pretty interesting, i should try the solutions eventually...i just know im gonna waste money knowing the strap dies first
Been climbing with skwamas for the past 2 years. Absolutely love them! I don't think I will use a different shoe..
Haha dont fix whats not broken right?
@@BeorOng that attitude will keep you in the stone age😅
@@EK-em2zv hahah well i want to try the madrock visions if thry ever release em
@@BeorOng omg I don't think they have come out (I emailed the team at mad rock lol) but the concept just looks sooo rad 👌 😍
What are your top 3 shoes? Do you also have wide feet? I love my skwamas but they stretch out alot.
Ooo good question - my shoe of choice is butora acro (currently using comp version) best value for money in my opinion, second are my skwamas - again skwama would win hands down with - im breaking in my phantoms and furia airs atm, the furias i think so far are great the phantoms need more breaking into before i can make a call but definitely better than their agro line if you have a wide foot. My brother really likes the oracles though. But yeah i have wide foot so for me it really depends what youre after in a shoe - fit, rubber, sensitivity, flexibility, for me skwamas have most of it cept the rubber and that comes down to personal preference. Was there a shoe you were considering?
@@BeorOng I just picked up the scarpa veloce as a gym shoe but haven't used them yet. I was also looking at other soft shoes like the sportiva theory and furia s, but wasn't sure if they would fit my wide feet. The skwama feels pretty sticky to me, but I've only really used vibram rubbers before.
@@Alex-eu7ls havent tried the veloce at all, the theory's are quite nice for wide toebox people like you and me, and the overall fit and design is quite good. Again for me those shoes really come down to rubber for me, cause I already have the skwama's I personally think that I have no reason to buy the solutions or theory's (no edge for me is meh.. especially for indoor climbing) Because of the softness of the furia's I actually think that they are quite comfortable. Theyre definitely designed more to be sock like so that you can do all the parkoury type movements over edging in precision edges (though edging isnt terrible I guess).
As for vibram, yeah I think I got spoiled cause my first shoe were the shadows and after using them (which uses same rubber as butora) vibram just felt a lot more slippery. I think if I had started on vibram I wouldnt have minded so much but now I just prefer them
damn we need more content online like that !!! do u have solution comp review?
Im planning on making one (dont currently own a pair) but quite frankly the only reason I'm putting it off is cause I know what the draw back is and Im hesitant to drop the 200 bucks for a shoe I'm gonna complain about.... essentially fantastic shoe, great fit, xs grip 2 rubber as well which I've made my peace with now, but the biggest drawback is the strap gets frayed and cut very very quickly, especially if you do a lot of toe hooks and fray the loop a bit... now you might say you just need to be more accurate with toe hooks...but no... this is the BIGGEST and most frequent complaint I've heard about the shoe (my brother has a pair) and I've looked online to see what others had to say... I'll still do it eventually but again... dropping 200 dollars just to hate on it is a bit rough atm haha
@Beor Ong hahahah I feel you! yeah you were saying the strap gonna be easy to break at black phantoms video already 🤣🤣🤣 so glad I don’t need to worry about this cuz as my v3 level I dont even know how to do toe hooks yet. 🥲😇😇😇
But yeah hahah I’ll stay tuned for ur videos!!! Keep it up 👍
@@lilididntwakeup really appreciate the support