What type of o ring are you using in the hot rod crankcase. Using hot rod spiral gears and hot spiral pinion, armma aluminum diff casing and mc2 out drives having clearance issues any segustions pinion rubbing on diff casing gear mess is right on just touching casing
I recently gained a weird issue -> front dogbones popping out of the diff cups when braking hard or when the front hits a jump really hard. They don't pop out at maximum shock extension because the droop screw setting prevents it from having enough space to do so, but instead somehow manage to pop out of the cups at max compression. What could I check on the car? I have some M2C front CVD shafts that I could install which are supposed to be longer than the stock ones, but only by half a millimeter or so. Surely that can't be it?
You’d be surprised what 1 mm can prevent. Have you considered removing the washers on the ends of the front upper a arms? Also some people (assuming you have a V5/EXB) We’ll go in and drill a larger hole in the red cap (in the bottom arm) so that the pillow ball screw passes through it, moving the assembly a millimeter or two inward. Another thing people often do to prevent this issue is by taking a small piece of clear flex tubing line, slipping about a 5 mm piece off of it and installing that on the shockshaft right above the shock rod end, to help prevent full compression.
@@EastTactics Ahhhh, so *that* is why people remove the red caps! I never saw a use for it so I kept the red caps, I will definitely remove them and drill a larger hole in those and realign the whole front end. The tiny bit of front track width lost is not a problem if it means not destroying any more dogbones and bottom arms from the axles being dragged around when they pop out. Thank you for the super quick reply with all of this info, I will take the most suitable few of these solutions and see what works best. 🙂
@@mohamedrafi2000 Click around on their website and find where you can contact them directly via email. They’re always quick to work with people or at least reply back about questions you might have
If you turn them rpm arms backwards like left on right right on left the plastic lump that sticks up acts like a droop screws and doesn’t shew trough your chassis 👌👍👍
Steve Handford Fpv, That’s really interesting, and it’s the right height? I’ve actually since upgraded to the MTC chassis, where Mitch the creator has inlaid ball bearings to mitigate wear. Next time I am replacing RPM arms I’ll have to look at that
Great vids! Everything well explaned and helpful. Thx! 👍👍
Good detailed description how to set your droop
Glad it was helpful!
What type of o ring are you using in the hot rod crankcase. Using hot rod spiral gears and hot spiral pinion, armma aluminum diff casing and mc2 out drives having clearance issues any segustions pinion rubbing on diff casing gear mess is right on just touching casing
What diff casing are you using
Figured it out missing inside bearing went back to manual thank for the videos very helpful
I recently gained a weird issue -> front dogbones popping out of the diff cups when braking hard or when the front hits a jump really hard. They don't pop out at maximum shock extension because the droop screw setting prevents it from having enough space to do so, but instead somehow manage to pop out of the cups at max compression.
What could I check on the car? I have some M2C front CVD shafts that I could install which are supposed to be longer than the stock ones, but only by half a millimeter or so. Surely that can't be it?
You’d be surprised what 1 mm can prevent. Have you considered removing the washers on the ends of the front upper a arms? Also some people (assuming you have a V5/EXB)
We’ll go in and drill a larger hole in the red cap (in the bottom arm) so that the pillow ball screw passes through it, moving the assembly a millimeter or two inward.
Another thing people often do to prevent this issue is by taking a small piece of clear flex tubing line, slipping about a 5 mm piece off of it and installing that on the shockshaft right above the shock rod end, to help prevent full compression.
@@EastTactics Ahhhh, so *that* is why people remove the red caps! I never saw a use for it so I kept the red caps, I will definitely remove them and drill a larger hole in those and realign the whole front end. The tiny bit of front track width lost is not a problem if it means not destroying any more dogbones and bottom arms from the axles being dragged around when they pop out. Thank you for the super quick reply with all of this info, I will take the most suitable few of these solutions and see what works best. 🙂
😎 Happy to help
Good tip
Hi where do i get the axel platform for ease of repairs and maintenance?
I think what you’re looking for can be found in the description of this video
ruclips.net/video/gov56EolTK0/видео.html
@@EastTactics i was thinking of getting the bulkheads for my K8 6s V4 from M2C racing. Wonder if they ship to Singapore tho.
@@mohamedrafi2000
Click around on their website and find where you can contact them directly via email. They’re always quick to work with people or at least reply back about questions you might have
If you turn them rpm arms backwards like left on right right on left the plastic lump that sticks up acts like a droop screws and doesn’t shew trough your chassis 👌👍👍
Steve Handford Fpv, That’s really interesting, and it’s the right height? I’ve actually since upgraded to the MTC chassis, where Mitch the creator has inlaid ball bearings to mitigate wear. Next time I am replacing RPM arms I’ll have to look at that
East Tactics yes mate give about 1-2mm of shock compression but all is good if your running m2c chassis works better if your running stock chassis 👍
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
thanks for the reply :)