Mr. Pete, thanks for your preparation time to make this video possible. It made sense and it was easy to understand. No doubt in the early days it took immense trial and error to get a reliable design for these drill chucks. Thanks for passing on your knowledge. Understanding how the intricacies of mechanics and machinery are key to reliable and successful outcomes of ones efforts.
Thank you Lyle. I just got a British made Jacob's number 7 0-1/4" and it's frozen apart from about 1/16 th of a turn on the ring, now at least I know how to get it apart ! I always thought Jacob's chucks were an English company because all the ones I've ever seen since I were a kid were made in steel town ie Sheffield in Yorkshire where our greatest steel manufacturers and makers of quality tool steels and quality steel tools were made.
I watched this when it came out. Today, I had to reference it to help me with my Atlas |#1020 drill press. I purchased it used and I am trying to make a more precise hole to install some larger wheel studs. The chuck originall would fall off and I used some valve grinding compound to lightly clean up the taper and was successful in getting the chuck tight on the shaft. I just dismantled the quill and cleaned up everything and it is looking good but I must mount the shaft in my lathe and dial indicate the shaft to see if I have a problem. Next, I will be taking the chuck apart and will purchase new jaws if needed. With new bearings, this should spin truer than for the past 20 years. Thanks Lyle for posting all your videos.
Thanks for showing how this chuck works. I always wanted to know what is inside one of those and you showed it all. It all makes sense now. I will probably never take one of these apart but I do have a better appreciation for the Jacob's chucks. You also show how they are attached to the tool and how to dismount them. I have learned a lot from watching your videos and have a lot of stuff I did not know what they were for like the wedges to dismount one of these chucks. Thanks!!!
I always wondered how they worked/looked on the inside but didn't know how they come apart. ( not that I ever needed to, was just curious ). Excellent info; thank you.
Word of warning. On the Jacobs 2A/2B chucks, you do NOT want to retract the jaws fully before re-installing the outer shell. It will chip the teeth on the jaws when you press it back on if you do. Instead retract the jaws just below the face of the chuck. Learned that one the hard way.
@@peterford9369 yes and no. I had to grind off the broken bit so it wouldn't catch. Now if I try to clamp it all the way the jaw falls out. Anything over 1/16 is fine.
Yup, I sure wish I’d read the comments before I fully opened my non Jacobs chuck, then hydraulically pressed it together. It was a sound I’d wish on no machinist. Took the bottom threads of all three jaws right out.
Fantastic video. My neighbor gave me some older chucks like you show. Now I can clean them. They just feel so solid and so much better than the new ones. Norman.
My only comment is I deeply appreciate the videos and instruction. You teach better than most of my former teachers,in all my attended schools!! How is it possible you have not been recognized as a top tier instructor? I realize it is probably not in your nature to self aggrandize,however you should be granted Living National Treasure Status!!! the precision and ease with which you Instruct. You should be teaching other teachers in the fine art of instruction
Thank you for this video. In fiddling with drill chucks in my woodworking shop I've learned to make correctly sized - what are they called? - disassembly collars? - with a single bit fly cutter and that the easiest, most effective materials apt tp be found in a woodshop are sheet aluminum and Micarta. Even baltic birch plywood may prove too soft to resist crushing while trying to push Jacobs' tapered parts apart in a good metal vise.
I like how you get directly to the point! Very good, informative, and clear videos! High quality information and instruction. I appreciate all of your videos!!
Mr Pete, Though I never trained in the field of machine shop engineering, I nonetheless am very interested, and love watching you videos. My field was audio and television servicing - I served a five year apprenticeship for my vocation. Repairing audio and television is no longer done any more. I was surprised to see and hear Jacobs chucks are an American company (which are now global), I always thought of them as being British. Jacobs Chucks was a long established manufacturing business here in Sheffield, England, where I was born, and still live. Though the factory closed down sometime during the latter quarter of the twentieth century, two of my late uncles clocked up over sixty yeas of employment between them at Jacobs Chucks. Strangely, though Jacobs have long since gone, the old factory building is still standing , and is used for some other purpose. Many old, very ornate factory buildings, some dating back to pre-Victorian times, have been demolished which in my way of thinking is very sad since I would have considered some of them as worth preserving as an important part of Sheffield's tool, steel, engineering, silver wear, and cutlery manufacturing heritage. Regards, Phil
Thank you. I had heard of the fractured nut but have never had one apart. But soon will the one on the drill press at work is getting hard to close on smaller sizes i shall attempt to to be a hero are zero soon.
That was cool. I used to do machine and tool and die work and I never even thought about how a chuck works, much less re-build one! Thanks for a great video and I just want to say that you have a great voice. You sound like a TV star I just can't place who. Everything you say sounds interesting :)
I know this is an old video so you may not answer, but there doesn't seem to be any reason, if you're just cleaning it, to simply soak the chuck in say mineral spirits or paint thinner, work the jaws in and out to clean out the dirt and grime, blow it out with air and run some 3&1 oil in it running the jaws in and out. Kits are expensive but so,s a new chuck. You pay 150 bucks for a half inch drill brand new and a new chuck costs 100 bucks crazy. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
@@mrpete222 Thank you sir. I'm a 70 year old carpenter,semi retired,haha, home builder, used half to 5/8s chuck drills all my life. So I have had chucks get stiff to the point of,only the key will turn them. I've never tried to open one,but now seeing how they work,it makes me think, as with anything else, you could get a slightly defective one. Bad assembly alignment. Chiped jaw or nut gear. Just something to cause stiff action. Looks like tolerance in fit is very important. And lubrication is definitely a plus. Keeping mating surfaces from eating each other. Hardened or not. An unpolished edge wears quickly. Your video sure does show it all. Thanks again Pete.
@mrpete222 It is good folks like yourself that I grew up learning from in the 70's and 80's. It's a shame that schools have removed shop classes to save a nickel.
A warning about disassembly! Mr. Pete, I like your videos so much because you remind me of my junior high school shop teacher. your voice, accent and tone are amazingly identical. Except Mr. Jones (was my teacher) he was always yelling "Stay out of the Aisleway boy! Can't you see the yellow line" and he'd be pointing at your foot that was barely touching the line. These were safety zones for machine operators. LOL! I just want to say that I could not figure out how they come apart. then I saw your video. you said all you need to do is press it out. just back the jaws up and do not press on the jaws. As soon as I heard that I said that's right I have an Arbor press. Ran out to my shop, I backed the jaws up all the way and used a ring spacer on the back part and pressed. crrrack !!! oops I broke the teeth on all the jaws and the nut! Don't back them up all the way! just enough to clear the front part of the chuck body! it was a good chuck, but in my plan, I didn't need the teeth or the nut anyway. I'm going to repurpose the taper attachment and make it into an ER collet. No worries!
You can get good quality keyless chucks too. Röhm makes some very nice ones - the Extra-RV for instance. I agree it's too rare to have great chucks on drills directly from the factory but in the keyless vs keyed it's not because the keyless is cheaper. It's because customers demands it. These days time is money and especially with drills used professionally they don't want to mess around with a slow keyed process. I do however agree that often keyed chucks are better quality than keyless for a given price. I've been looking like hell for a better chuck for a small cordless drill I have as the factory one is horrible - have a bad runout. Have looked everywhere but it's very difficult to get one that fits. It's 10mm but with 1/2x20UNF thread and lower diameter is quite narrow as the drills clutch collar sticks out over the chuck. Found one for a better drill in the series which should be good - at least enough for a hand held drill - but that one costs as much as a new drill. At my work I can buy some of the Röhm chucks at great discount. So I've settled for a keyed one - very good quality Röhm made in Germany and it only costs (me) a few bucks - retail price is higher. Same length as the original - many other keyless are quite long - but even a little bit narrower. A small drill you typically also want as short as possible. A bit odd retro like looking but hey if it's great :D I would have preferred a keyless one. Less time to change drill/bits and no key to mess with but it's about impossible to find a good one fitting.
Thanks! I am disassembling and cleaning some vintage Jacobs chucks I have on my machines. I have a 34-02, a 34-33, and a 7B. Do you know anyone who has vintage US-made rebuild kits? I know they are like a unicorn these days, but I don't want the Chinese-made jaws in my nice, old chucks. Any sources you are willing to divulge? I really need a kit for the 7B - the two 34 series chucks are both doing pretty well. But one day they will need renewal, too.
Now, I know why I never finished a "servicing" of a drill chuck many years ago, when I was young and thought I knew "everything." Now, I'm older and even "wiser," so I just buy a new chuck (or even a new drill). :o)
Whilst agreeing with the comment below about Albrecht, there is a price to pay for that German excellence. Also Mr. Pete, the biggest challenge I found when taking my Jacobs apart was replacing the jaws using the drawing which did not seem to match my old jaws. Kindest regards. Jo
hey mr. pete, after watching your last version of this i tore mine down, interesting details, the main body is not hardened (and come to find that some one used the wrong key, buggering up the key hole at the verry bottom where the jaws pass by, thus why mine was being goofy, a round bastard file took care of that). but it is a ball bearing body, so the only difference is above the jaw driving thread ring, is a pair of races, with a cut out in each one to slip the ball bearings into.
That's interesting. I have a couple that could use an EvapoRust bath and a little polishing. I'll have to think how I'll press the collar off since I don't have a metal lathe; maybe I'll use turned piece of hard maple.
Mr. Pete, I love your videos and hate it when you get hateful comments. But, you really got me this time. You didn't mention the incredibly important fact that you can't have the jaws all the way in when you remove the collar. I just watched your video and commenced to destroy a very rare 633D chuck. After it was too late I saw in your comments people trying to warn others about this problem. This video should be removed and redone to prevent more people from destroying their expensive chucks. In your vast collection do you have any extra 633D or 633C collar mount chucks for a drill press? I need one in the worst way. I know you mean well and at least 99% of your instruction is correct information, thank you for that!!
Think it's not worth to repair if one has to buy new parts. I have 3 Jakobs, 0 - to 1/2" which I bought about 35 years ago...the only problem I find is the key doesn't fit well...too loose, the round, 5/16" diam. engaging part not long enough. About 15 years ago I welded it up..made longer to fit better, now worn out again...I cut it off, drilled with carbide and reamed, pushed a 5/16 dowel pin into and cut longer, better then original...working good again.
Mr Pete, Can you resurface the old jaws and reuse them if they're worn? I'd assume you'd need to grind the surfaces that mates to the drill to the same #'s on all 3 jaws? Maybe you could make a fixture to locate and hold them while you grind them?
Dr Pete, What do lube your chucks with? Do you have a video on Albrecht chucks and Albrecht knock offs? My favorite is not holding bits well.Thank you so much for the wealth of info and enthusiasm!
I never knew that sleeve was pressed on. Good design. On an older or damaged chuck... Is it recommended to true up the three teeth with a fine round file (like a chain saw file and drill) in its assembled state?
I have a 633C chuck, when I put it back on the press, the collar pulled the spring clip that holds the collar on the chuck out of its groove. Do you have any suggestions for the best way to re-install that clip? Also, how tight should I make the collar when I install the chuck on the press? This happened when I was tightening up the collar.
similar to old polish ptrk chuck, the difference is you have to push the sleeve the other way, and the scroll ring (also in 2 pieces) is a part of the teeth ring where the key goes the thing i would like to know is, how to keep the chuck from rusting i live in humid area and no mater what kind of oil or polishind work i put into it, it always rust with time.
Dear Mr Pete, The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off .... i asked my old neighbour a retired welder looked at my chuck and he said ... you must put in the vice and get your 14" Ridge on the keyhead. Then turn it loose .... then you can remove the jaws. The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off .... I tried but the chuck rim just cutted my welding handgloves i am using big vice. I cant say what brand it is the marks are worn out.
great video, i've since disassembled a couple of my old jacobs chucks, cleaned them up. they operate much much better one of my drill presses has a "supreme ball bearing" chuck, any tips on that one? it came on a 1946 beaver drill press(made in canada)
tubalcain, im trying to speed up production on my manual lathe. noticed you had a morse taper tailstock turret, i was wondering if you had a BXA style morse taper tool holder, and if you would demonstrate drilling using the carriage on an engine lathe with the mt3 turret
Firstly thanks & secondly the story, I recently acquired (today) a keyed Drill Chuck, its chicom so a healthy deburr & greasing is in order, but how dose one disassemble it? Then I thought Tubalcain! & shore enough Tubalcain showed me how.
That was a good clear video and I learned something from it. Thanks for posting it. By the way I figure the jaws have a linear gear down the side so it was clear what you meant. If linear gear is not the correct term then it ought to be.
Mr. Pete, Good video, however I wish you had done it with an uncut Chuck so that people can see just how tight the assembly really is. I know you did mention it but a full demo with an uncut version would have been a bit more realistic. Also instead of notching witness marks into the face of the Jaws, I would have read the instruction sheet to viewers that shows how to figure out which Jaw goes where - just so some viewer does NOT notch Jaws and then blame you.
Yes please, can we have a quick follow up video with you pressing apart a complete chuck? I think that must be the hardest part and it is the part I would like to see...
Bobby W and SAHBfan, I don't think Mr. Pete will ever make a follow up video on this, even if he's a mechanical guru. He didn't even answer to your comments, did he? Guess why he didn't bother himself to answer your reasonable comments... I think if a chuck is dismantled, then it will never ever work again, at least not the way you want it to work.
Never seen a chuck stripped down....very interesting and damn that's a lot of work for a machine to make, no wonder they cost so much. If it was me buying a powerdrill today I'd split my funds, half for the drill and the other for a decent chuck. Those keyless ones are garbage
Would you happen to know off hand where I can find a jaw and nut rebuild kit for a 6A 33 jacobs taper? I tried McMaster but apparently too small for my chuck. No one posts specifications so for a newbie like me, I apparently made a mistake with the one I bought from McMaster today. Thanks again for a great explanation^ !
I watched your vedio! I backed the jaws all the way back put in pres ? The ring caught the end of all three jaws DESTROYED MY WALKER TURNER CHUCK! DONT BACK THE JAWS ALL THE WAY BACK. Gene Inman
Good video. Will you show the best way to remove a morse taper both threaded and tapered? Is there a way on the chuck body to tell if it's threaded or tapered into the chuck and what size it is to replace if needed. Thanks
The nose will be marked with the capacity and attachment type, such as CAP. 1/16-1/2 and either J33 (most common taper) or the thread type (1/2-20, 5/16-24 etc.) See video @ 2:27
I have a reason. It spun in the tail stock on my wood lathe and grooved it up. Also damaged the tail-stock morse taper and I had to replace it and won't use the chuck until I replace the stem.
I completely deadlocked a chuck by letting a small bit get between only two of the jaws off to one side, by mistake, then tightening it. Of course it was evident once turned on... The real damage became apparent once i tried to take it back out. After seeing the prices for rebild kits, sadly, i bought an import chuck for 5$ new in Houston... Its still on the drill press & the deadlocked jacobs is in its box...never could get it apart. Maybe ill try again now that I've seen under the hood.
All that I can say is: "The krappy De Walt key-less chuck on my battery powered drill motor holds on to the T25 bit that drives coated deck screws in the fences on the ranch, now that my wrists can no longer drive nails. That is what I need. Ron W4BIN
I am not afraid to admit that I really like keyless chucks, especially Albrecht type but even the cheaper ones on Dewalt drill motors. With a modern reversible tool, who needs a key? IMHO, some types of nostalgia are misplaced.
Paul Mathews. theu are handy but undeniably lower quality. I also have no problem using a keyed chuck like a keyless assuming both are being tightened to a reasonable level.
I had an issue with trying to press apart a Jacobs chuck. I had the jaws backed all the way off, and I think that the threads on them hit something on the sleeve because when we finally got it apart the sleeve broke and the last thread on each jaw was broken
Hi again. Another great informative video. That tiny drill press in the background is similar to my Mini-Max drill press. Mine has a Jacobs No. Oo chuck but no key. I bought it at an estate sale in poor (abused) condition and I am attempting to bring it back to working condition. Have you any experience or info on this model? I did a quick google of the name without any luck. I would sure like to see an original picture or drawing showing the complete unit as some parts of mine have been lost. Thanks for the great channel.
scott haddad hi Scott.sorry, I have never heard of a mini Max. So I don't know anything about them. You'll just have to keep searching for some information
mrpete222 thanks for responding, it is similar to the one pictured in your video except the mini-max has a quill feed and pulleys with a size 300series o-ring as the drive belt. Thanks again. Now back to Google and searching for this little gem’s heritage.
Great video! I have a Jacobs Chuck model # 633D with a threaded collar. I'm trying to find a repair kit for it. Do you know if they still make a kit for this model? I emailed Jacobs but haven't gotten a response from them.
Mr. Pete, thanks for your preparation time to make this video possible. It made sense and it was easy to understand. No doubt in the early days it took immense trial and error to get a reliable design for these drill chucks. Thanks for passing on your knowledge. Understanding how the intricacies of mechanics and machinery are key to reliable and successful outcomes of ones efforts.
Mr Pete, you do such a great job explaining things. It makes it such a pleasure to watch your videos.Thank you.
Thank you Lyle. I just got a British made Jacob's number 7 0-1/4" and it's frozen apart from about 1/16 th of a turn on the ring, now at least I know how to get it apart ! I always thought Jacob's chucks were an English company because all the ones I've ever seen since I were a kid were made in steel town ie Sheffield in Yorkshire where our greatest steel manufacturers and makers of quality tool steels and quality steel tools were made.
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I watched this when it came out. Today, I had to reference it to help me with my Atlas |#1020 drill press. I purchased it used and I am trying to make a more precise hole to install some larger wheel studs. The chuck originall would fall off and I used some valve grinding compound to lightly clean up the taper and was successful in getting the chuck tight on the shaft. I just dismantled the quill and cleaned up everything and it is looking good but I must mount the shaft in my lathe and dial indicate the shaft to see if I have a problem. Next, I will be taking the chuck apart and will purchase new jaws if needed. With new bearings, this should spin truer than for the past 20 years. Thanks Lyle for posting all your videos.
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Thanks for showing how this chuck works. I always wanted to know what is inside one of those and you showed it all. It all makes sense now. I will probably never take one of these apart but I do have a better appreciation for the Jacob's chucks. You also show how they are attached to the tool and how to dismount them. I have learned a lot from watching your videos and have a lot of stuff I did not know what they were for like the wedges to dismount one of these chucks. Thanks!!!
I am glad you liked it
I always wondered how they worked/looked on the inside but didn't know how they come apart. ( not that I ever needed to, was just curious ). Excellent info; thank you.
Word of warning. On the Jacobs 2A/2B chucks, you do NOT want to retract the jaws fully before re-installing the outer shell. It will chip the teeth on the jaws when you press it back on if you do. Instead retract the jaws just below the face of the chuck. Learned that one the hard way.
Oof, I missed your comment. I just did it with an old hartford chuck and chipped the last tooth on removal.
@@Loebane That stinks. Sorry for you.
@@Loebane Ouch, bet that sucked. Did it totally make it unusable?
@@peterford9369 yes and no. I had to grind off the broken bit so it wouldn't catch. Now if I try to clamp it all the way the jaw falls out.
Anything over 1/16 is fine.
Yup, I sure wish I’d read the comments before I fully opened my non Jacobs chuck, then hydraulically pressed it together. It was a sound I’d wish on no machinist. Took the bottom threads of all three jaws right out.
Fantastic video. My neighbor gave me some older chucks like you show. Now I can clean them. They just feel so solid and so much better than the new ones. Norman.
My only comment is I deeply appreciate the videos and instruction. You teach better than most of my former teachers,in all my attended schools!! How is it possible you have not been recognized as a top tier instructor? I realize it is probably not in your nature to self aggrandize,however you should be granted Living National Treasure Status!!! the precision and ease with which you Instruct. You should be teaching other teachers in the fine art of instruction
Thanks very much. I never had an administrator tell me I was a good teacher.
They were negligent administrators; you are more than a good teacher, you are a superb teacher.
Not flattery, Fact.
I don't recall ever seeing someone make a drill chuck. A considerable undertaking I would imagine..
My Lord my friend you have embraced technology you are spectacular technology needs to embrace you thanks for the help
Thank you for sharing this information. This is the kind of Info. that is soon lost if we older generation don't take the time to pass it on.
Thank you! I've wondered how to do that. I've got a few that need some attention and now I know how to go about it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Tubalcain I never been inside of a chuck before, good info.
I have thought about those chucks and wondered how the heck they are made so this was really fun to see.
Thank you for this video. In fiddling with drill chucks in my woodworking shop I've learned to make correctly sized - what are they called? - disassembly collars? - with a single bit fly cutter and that the easiest, most effective materials apt tp be found in a woodshop are sheet aluminum and Micarta. Even baltic birch plywood may prove too soft to resist crushing while trying to push Jacobs' tapered parts apart in a good metal vise.
Thank you for the video! I have several 1/2" chucks that are jammed up and need repaired. Now I know how to get them apart!
Lovely little sensitive drill and great video as usual !
Another GREATvideo Pete. Thank You again for being a great teacher. Thank You
Thanks for watching
I watched this a couple of years ago , back for a quick recap before I start work on a bad old Jacobs.
I like how you get directly to the point! Very good, informative, and clear videos!
High quality information and instruction.
I appreciate all of your videos!!
Informative vid, well worth the watch. Always wondered how they worked Thanks for posting.
Well, now I can take all the extra Chuck's that need real serviced and good cleaning, thx Mr Pete, Bear
Mr Pete,
Though I never trained in the field of machine shop engineering, I nonetheless am very interested, and love watching you videos. My field was audio and television servicing - I served a five year apprenticeship for my vocation. Repairing audio and television is no longer done any more.
I was surprised to see and hear Jacobs chucks are an American company (which are now global), I always thought of them as being British. Jacobs Chucks was a long established manufacturing business here in Sheffield, England, where I was born, and still live. Though the factory closed down sometime during the latter quarter of the twentieth century, two of my late uncles clocked up over sixty yeas of employment between them at Jacobs Chucks.
Strangely, though Jacobs have long since gone, the old factory building is still standing , and is used for some other purpose. Many old, very ornate factory buildings, some dating back to pre-Victorian times, have been demolished which in my way of thinking is very sad since I would have considered some of them as worth preserving as an important part of Sheffield's tool, steel, engineering, silver wear, and cutlery manufacturing heritage.
Regards,
Phil
Thank you so much for watching. Thats good info on jacobs
Always a good learning experience. I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the instruction. Helped immensely.
Thank you. I had heard of the fractured nut but have never had one apart. But soon will the one on the drill press at work is getting hard to close on smaller sizes i shall attempt to to be a hero are zero soon.
That was cool. I used to do machine and tool and die work and I never even thought about how a chuck works, much less re-build one! Thanks for a great video and I just want to say that you have a great voice. You sound like a TV star I just can't place who. Everything you say sounds interesting :)
Great video, thank you for teaching so much in so little time.
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I know this is an old video so you may not answer, but there doesn't seem to be any reason, if you're just cleaning it, to simply soak the chuck in say mineral spirits or paint thinner, work the jaws in and out to clean out the dirt and grime, blow it out with air and run some 3&1 oil in it running the jaws in and out. Kits are expensive but so,s a new chuck. You pay 150 bucks for a half inch drill brand new and a new chuck costs 100 bucks crazy. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Yes, soak it in a solvent tank. Unfortunately I do not have one.
@@mrpete222 Thank you sir. I'm a 70 year old carpenter,semi retired,haha, home builder, used half to 5/8s chuck drills all my life. So I have had chucks get stiff to the point of,only the key will turn them. I've never tried to open one,but now seeing how they work,it makes me think, as with anything else, you could get a slightly defective one. Bad assembly alignment. Chiped jaw or nut gear. Just something to cause stiff action. Looks like tolerance in fit is very important. And lubrication is definitely a plus. Keeping mating surfaces from eating each other. Hardened or not. An unpolished edge wears quickly.
Your video sure does show it all. Thanks again Pete.
Another mystery solved thanks mr. Pete.
@mrpete222 It is good folks like yourself that I grew up learning from in the 70's and 80's. It's a shame that schools have removed shop classes to save a nickel.
Yes, they had to order new football jerseys, and cheerleader outfits. LOL
Another Great Vídeo by my Favorite Shop Teacher. Thank You
A warning about disassembly!
Mr. Pete, I like your videos so much because you remind me of my junior high school shop teacher. your voice, accent and tone are amazingly identical. Except Mr. Jones (was my teacher) he was always yelling "Stay out of the Aisleway boy! Can't you see the yellow line" and he'd be pointing at your foot that was barely touching the line. These were safety zones for machine operators. LOL!
I just want to say that I could not figure out how they come apart. then I saw your video. you said all you need to do is press it out. just back the jaws up and do not press on the jaws. As soon as I heard that I said that's right I have an Arbor press. Ran out to my shop, I backed the jaws up all the way and used a ring spacer on the back part and pressed. crrrack !!! oops I broke the teeth on all the jaws and the nut! Don't back them up all the way! just enough to clear the front part of the chuck body! it was a good chuck, but in my plan, I didn't need the teeth or the nut anyway. I'm going to repurpose the taper attachment and make it into an ER collet. No worries!
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a lot of keyless chucks are junk but the all metal jacobs brand keyless chucks are actually really nice.
Love that little domore drill press. Heck of a machine. No video on it?
Well you solved a mystery I have had with that demo thanks Lyle
Very good demonstration. Thank you.
Thanks
You can get good quality keyless chucks too. Röhm makes some very nice ones - the Extra-RV for instance. I agree it's too rare to have great chucks on drills directly from the factory but in the keyless vs keyed it's not because the keyless is cheaper. It's because customers demands it. These days time is money and especially with drills used professionally they don't want to mess around with a slow keyed process. I do however agree that often keyed chucks are better quality than keyless for a given price. I've been looking like hell for a better chuck for a small cordless drill I have as the factory one is horrible - have a bad runout. Have looked everywhere but it's very difficult to get one that fits. It's 10mm but with 1/2x20UNF thread and lower diameter is quite narrow as the drills clutch collar sticks out over the chuck. Found one for a better drill in the series which should be good - at least enough for a hand held drill - but that one costs as much as a new drill. At my work I can buy some of the Röhm chucks at great discount. So I've settled for a keyed one - very good quality Röhm made in Germany and it only costs (me) a few bucks - retail price is higher. Same length as the original - many other keyless are quite long - but even a little bit narrower. A small drill you typically also want as short as possible. A bit odd retro like looking but hey if it's great :D I would have preferred a keyless one. Less time to change drill/bits and no key to mess with but it's about impossible to find a good one fitting.
Jacobs also makes 1/2 x 20 mount keyless chucks.
Thanks! I am disassembling and cleaning some vintage Jacobs chucks I have on my machines. I have a 34-02, a 34-33, and a 7B. Do you know anyone who has vintage US-made rebuild kits? I know they are like a unicorn these days, but I don't want the Chinese-made jaws in my nice, old chucks. Any sources you are willing to divulge? I really need a kit for the 7B - the two 34 series chucks are both doing pretty well. But one day they will need renewal, too.
I do not. I thought that Jacobs sold them
Thank you Mr. Pete. I have an old chuck, from a 16' drill press, that locked up on me. Perhaps there's hope if I can locate it.
Now, I know why I never finished a "servicing" of a drill chuck many years ago, when I was young and thought I knew "everything." Now, I'm older and even "wiser," so I just buy a new chuck (or even a new drill). :o)
How can anybody dislike Tubalcain's videos? I don't understand it.
Thanks for watching
Nice video, very informative. Thanks for putting it up.
Thank you for watching
Whilst agreeing with the comment below about Albrecht, there is a price to pay for that German excellence. Also Mr. Pete, the biggest challenge I found when taking my Jacobs apart was replacing the jaws using the drawing which did not seem to match my old jaws. Kindest regards. Jo
hey mr. pete, after watching your last version of this i tore mine down, interesting details, the main body is not hardened (and come to find that some one used the wrong key, buggering up the key hole at the verry bottom where the jaws pass by, thus why mine was being goofy, a round bastard file took care of that).
but it is a ball bearing body, so the only difference is above the jaw driving thread ring, is a pair of races, with a cut out in each one to slip the ball bearings into.
That's interesting. I have a couple that could use an EvapoRust bath and a little polishing. I'll have to think how I'll press the collar off since I don't have a metal lathe; maybe I'll use turned piece of hard maple.
Mr. Pete,
I love your videos and hate it when you get hateful comments. But, you really got me this time. You didn't mention the incredibly important fact that you can't have the jaws all the way in when you remove the collar. I just watched your video and commenced to destroy a very rare 633D chuck. After it was too late I saw in your comments people trying to warn others about this problem. This video should be removed and redone to prevent more people from destroying their expensive chucks. In your vast collection do you have any extra 633D or 633C collar mount chucks for a drill press? I need one in the worst way. I know you mean well and at least 99% of your instruction is correct information, thank you for that!!
Think it's not worth to repair if one has to buy new parts.
I have 3 Jakobs, 0 - to 1/2" which I bought about 35 years ago...the only problem I find is the key doesn't fit well...too loose, the round, 5/16" diam. engaging part not long enough. About 15 years ago I welded it up..made longer to fit better, now worn out again...I cut it off, drilled with carbide and reamed, pushed a 5/16 dowel pin into and cut longer, better then original...working good again.
Mr Pete,
Can you resurface the old jaws and reuse them if they're worn? I'd assume you'd need to grind the surfaces that mates to the drill to the same #'s on all 3 jaws? Maybe you could make a fixture to locate and hold them while you grind them?
Dr Pete, What do lube your chucks with? Do you have a video on Albrecht chucks and Albrecht knock offs? My favorite is not holding bits well.Thank you so much for the wealth of info and enthusiasm!
I never knew that sleeve was pressed on. Good design. On an older or damaged chuck... Is it recommended to true up the three teeth with a fine round file (like a chain saw file and drill) in its assembled state?
that's awsome Mr. Pete. thankyou
I have a 633C chuck, when I put it back on the press, the collar pulled the spring clip that holds the collar on the chuck out of its groove. Do you have any suggestions for the best way to re-install that clip? Also, how tight should I make the collar when I install the chuck on the press? This happened when I was tightening up the collar.
similar to old polish ptrk chuck, the difference is you have to push the sleeve the other way, and the scroll ring (also in 2 pieces) is a part of the teeth ring where the key goes
the thing i would like to know is, how to keep the chuck from rusting
i live in humid area and no mater what kind of oil or polishind work i put into it, it always rust with time.
Very nice teaching.
Thanks
Thank you Mr Pete
I like your idea of making "Witness marks" You would think the manufacturer would make them standard
Dear Mr Pete, The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off .... i asked
my old neighbour a retired welder looked at my chuck and he said ... you must put in the vice and get your 14" Ridge on the keyhead. Then turn it loose .... then you can remove the jaws. The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off ....
I tried but the chuck rim just cutted my welding handgloves i am using big vice. I cant say what brand it is the marks are worn out.
great video, i've since disassembled a couple of my old jacobs chucks, cleaned them up. they operate much much better
one of my drill presses has a "supreme ball bearing" chuck, any tips on that one? it came on a 1946 beaver drill press(made in canada)
Informative, and, interesting. Thank you!
ĺĺ you are looking o9
tubalcain, im trying to speed up production on my manual lathe. noticed you had a morse taper tailstock turret, i was wondering if you had a BXA style morse taper tool holder, and if you would demonstrate drilling using the carriage on an engine lathe with the mt3 turret
Thanks Mr. Pete!
Firstly thanks & secondly the story, I recently acquired (today) a keyed Drill Chuck, its chicom so a healthy deburr & greasing is in order, but how dose one disassemble it? Then I thought Tubalcain! & shore enough Tubalcain showed me how.
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Off topic, but I have the exact same little Dumore sensitive drill press that's in the background. Still manufactured, but really pricey.
Great video very informative
That was a good clear video and I learned something from it. Thanks for posting it. By the way I figure the jaws have a linear gear down the side so it was clear what you meant. If linear gear is not the correct term then it ought to be.
Glad you liked it
Mr. Pete,
Good video, however I wish you had done it with an uncut Chuck so that people can see just how tight the assembly really is. I know you did mention it but a full demo with an uncut version would have been a bit more realistic. Also instead of notching witness marks into the face of the Jaws, I would have read the instruction sheet to viewers that shows how to figure out which Jaw goes where - just so some viewer does NOT notch Jaws and then blame you.
Yes please, can we have a quick follow up video with you pressing apart a complete chuck? I think that must be the hardest part and it is the part I would like to see...
Bobby W and SAHBfan, I don't think Mr. Pete will ever make a follow up video on this, even if he's a mechanical guru. He didn't even answer to your comments, did he?
Guess why he didn't bother himself to answer your reasonable comments... I think if a chuck is dismantled, then it will never ever work again, at least not the way you want it to work.
SO HELPFUL .THANK
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Excellent video
very interesting thank you. Any chance to see a couple of different chucks and compare them to each other.
Thank you for watching, probably will not do any more videos on Chuck's
Very interesting way the nut was dealt with. I wonder if BMW borrowed this idea when they "pioneered" the big ends of some of their conn rods?
Never seen a chuck stripped down....very interesting and damn that's a lot of work for a machine to make, no wonder they cost so much. If it was me buying a powerdrill today I'd split my funds, half for the drill and the other for a decent chuck. Those keyless ones are garbage
شكرا لكم على خذه المعلومات الهامة.
Tubalcain can you show how you originally pressed it apart?
Fantastic video
Thanks
Thank you for this information!
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Would you happen to know off hand where I can find a jaw and nut rebuild kit for a 6A 33 jacobs taper? I tried McMaster but apparently too small for my chuck. No one posts specifications so for a newbie like me, I apparently made a mistake with the one I bought from McMaster today. Thanks again for a great explanation^ !
cant wait for the next one!
Thanks for the demo
I watched your vedio! I backed the jaws all the way back put in pres ? The ring caught the end of all three jaws DESTROYED MY WALKER TURNER CHUCK! DONT BACK THE JAWS ALL THE WAY BACK. Gene Inman
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Did you ever run across a Jacobs HP-100 precision chuck for tear down? If so is it like the "normal" #34, 14N, etc chucks?
I never did that
Good video. Will you show the best way to remove a morse taper both threaded and tapered? Is there a way on the chuck body to tell if it's threaded or tapered into the chuck and what size it is to replace if needed.
Thanks
The nose will be marked with the capacity and attachment type, such as CAP. 1/16-1/2 and either J33 (most common taper) or the thread type (1/2-20, 5/16-24 etc.) See video @ 2:27
Thanks Al. Then it would be nice show removal of each.
There's generally no need to remove the arbor from the chuck.
I have a reason. It spun in the tail stock on my wood lathe and grooved it up. Also damaged the tail-stock morse taper and I had to replace it and won't use the chuck until I replace the stem.
I completely deadlocked a chuck by letting a small bit get between only two of the jaws off to one side, by mistake, then tightening it. Of course it was evident once turned on... The real damage became apparent once i tried to take it back out. After seeing the prices for rebild kits, sadly, i bought an import chuck for 5$ new in Houston... Its still on the drill press & the deadlocked jacobs is in its box...never could get it apart. Maybe ill try again now that I've seen under the hood.
Wow, I didn't know that could happen. Of course I have done that many times. But it was never dead locked.
All that I can say is: "The krappy De Walt key-less chuck on my battery powered drill motor holds on to the T25 bit that drives coated deck screws in the fences on the ranch, now that my wrists can no longer drive nails. That is what I need. Ron W4BIN
Cool video didn't know that you could rebuild a chuck. And I agree that the new keyless chucks are absolute junk. GW
Helpful! Thanks!
great video as always!
I am not afraid to admit that I really like keyless chucks, especially Albrecht type but even the cheaper ones on Dewalt drill motors. With a modern reversible tool, who needs a key? IMHO, some types of nostalgia are misplaced.
Paul Mathews. theu are handy but undeniably lower quality. I also have no problem using a keyed chuck like a keyless assuming both are being tightened to a reasonable level.
I had an issue with trying to press apart a Jacobs chuck. I had the jaws backed all the way off, and I think that the threads on them hit something on the sleeve because when we finally got it apart the sleeve broke and the last thread on each jaw was broken
Ouch
very informative, thank you
Hi again. Another great informative video.
That tiny drill press in the background is similar to my Mini-Max drill press.
Mine has a Jacobs No. Oo chuck but no key.
I bought it at an estate sale in poor (abused) condition and I am attempting to bring it back to working condition.
Have you any experience or info on this model?
I did a quick google of the name without any luck.
I would sure like to see an original picture or drawing showing the complete unit as some parts of mine have been lost.
Thanks for the great channel.
scott haddad hi Scott.sorry, I have never heard of a mini Max. So I don't know anything about them. You'll just have to keep searching for some information
mrpete222 thanks for responding, it is similar to the one pictured in your video except the mini-max has a quill feed and pulleys with a size 300series o-ring as the drive belt. Thanks again. Now back to Google and searching for this little gem’s heritage.
Great video.
Who needs a press? I just took apart a Jacobs 36B with a hammer and a punch. Now to clean this thing up and see if I can't get it running right again.
Yes 👍
Thanks for sharing.
Mr. Pete. Were can I obtain a chuck key for a 33 taper, 6A-33, 0 -1/2in chuck. Thank you for your help.
MSC
Do you really use a chuck with a part the side cut out of the sleeve? If not, how do you get around that? Please reply.
He doesn't use it that way. He only did it for illustration purposes. I doubt it would be usable anymore.
Great video! I have a Jacobs Chuck model # 633D with a threaded collar. I'm trying to find a repair kit for it. Do you know if they still make a kit for this model? I emailed Jacobs but haven't gotten a response from them.
Sorry I do not have any idea
Thanks for sharing sir...
if jaws don't come together right, just swap any two jaws and it will be correct.
Thank you