Can I Improve the Dust Collection of my Miter Saw with Excessive Mahogany?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Yes, but it's more about the Mahogany.
Patreon: / agingwheels
Tools and Things used in this video:
Work Apron: amzn.to/3jMkXLT
2 1/2" PVC Hose: amzn.to/3oR5IEY
4" PVC Hose: amzn.to/3oJIctH
DeWalt Planer: amzn.to/3jR1cCA
Bosch Impact/Drill: amzn.to/3eh5cvh
Bosch Pocket Driver: amzn.to/35TZLyB
CA Glue: amzn.to/3mKIP4q
CA Activator: amzn.to/326CuYX
Half Inch Sprial Up Cut Bit: amzn.to/2HNYgtS
Bosch Router: amzn.to/2TLxXql
Disc Sander: amzn.to/3mJSYhB
Spindle Sander: amzn.to/2HRXVG2
Pin Nailer: amzn.to/2JjNbAT
I had a 10" Dewalt compound miter saw for around 12 years (light duty). It still works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe but I wanted something bigger. My only complaint about the 10" was the location of the motor, and this version fixes that issue. The XPS system works well. My only request for future versions is a dust collection port (or adapter) that fits large shop vac hoses (or standard PVC pipe fittings) a little better. But that's not a complaint, just a request.
Good job! I gave up un dust collection for my mitre saw - I now keep the saw on a wheeled trolly near the door and just push it outside. The wind does the rest
What a beautiful dust collector. Ingenuity and execution; perfect!! My favorite YT channel!
Nice Video Robert! I was particularly impressed at how you tackled all of the little challenges that you faced during the build. I was thinking that you'd hate to make that first cut on your new piece and you were in fact very entertaining! Thanks!
I see guys make stuff for the shop and they're like, "It doesn't have to look good, it's for a shop." We see it every time we use it so why shouldn't it look nice? Looks great and don't forget to make all of your shop look good if you want too.
Everything you make is awesome and fantastic!
Awesome Bro ! Looks great.
Your voice reminds me of Doug Demoro or however you spell his last name the car review guy.
I need this on my 10 inch saw
It does look nice
With the way you ran that pattern bit and the bandsaw with your fingers in the path of yhe blade, waiting for your shop accident aftermath.
a daft observation here, however, as you're using this for both RAS and mitre saw setups, would it not be more productive if rather than tracks in to the work surface, instead to fit a full length fence which aligns with the mitre saw fence and RAS so that long boards are supported, also that a stop block could be on the fence rather than the work surface? daft idea that it is, but just my way of thinking, after all, you're going to be cutting and slotting boards, so you'll need a reference surface to square to, not just a small mitre saw fence.
It's ridiculous. I love it.
And in your next video you learn to weld aluminum to put that piece of the saw back on? Nah you wont need it, this came out amazing :)
Taper all of the grid holes until they have pointed tapered edges
so are we (with we I mean you. I am just sitting here and watch) working to a wood shop with out the availability of wood dust unless you deliberately place it at a location?
This miter station dust box is so racecar it needed its own restrictor plate.
should have used screws for the parts so you can rebuild the fence if needed.
You know you're crossing over into true shop territory when people ask where did you get this? And you can just smile and say I made it 😊
The single most wonderfully over-engineered shop accessory ever!
And very pretty to boot!
Hey, all of us working in the shop w/post-COVID lung damage are like, "THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!"
100% of the next project will need bevel cuts...
Looks great! Glad your plans are working out. This is exciting!
If you are going to have a shtick, apparently its going to be overly ostentatious shop tooling accents. What other woodworker has a Mahogany dust collection box for their saw, and a dust vac cart with Walnut accents?
EDIT: Apparently Check the replies for some GREAT other woodworkers. Lot of people doing really cool work. (I now realize that this comment was totally asking for it, and I am not disappointed in the SLIGHTEST that I got answers.)
If you want to see excessive use of walnut accents, see Fishers Shop.
Fisher's Shop literally has "unnecessary walnut" as his main phrase already
@@gaz740 Gunflint Designs also really likes to use walnut
Take a look at Fleets Wood Shop. That's insane! Andrew Klein's only comment on the Fleets Wood Shop tour was "I quit!" :D ruclips.net/video/aBNkCm2-jTY/видео.html
@@thomashverring9484 I watched that a few weeks ago. For a moment I forgot I was watching a RUclips video! Damn that's a nice shop!!
Trying to get efficient dust Collection on a miter saw is like trying to heard cats....effin impossible. Good job though even if a bit OTT. 👍👍
I have a very similar dust collection system (like almost exactly with a Bosch) on my miter saw. I ran through many, many, plywood prototypes before I found the secret sauce and now it's nearly perfect. Here is what I found. Mine is the same with two important tweaks/changes. #1 My zero clearance back fence is taller it extends up right to the bottom of the saw body see here 15:16 where you are cutting and chips are flying into the boot? Remove the boot, extend the fence higher and you have nearly total collection and two dust ports collecting. #2 Prior to your first cut you could see the system was air starved at the bottom. Making the first cut would help obviously, but on the zero clearance insert, in the back inside the box extending forward drill a bunch of holes like a honeycomb --> these made a huge difference in airflow. The holes also give the added bonus of acting like a suction on the work piece holding it in place. Hope this helps and nicely constructed.
Over Dunn... I'll see myself out
The mitre saw fence/box does look good. Works well as a zero clearance, but the design and a total of three small flexible hoses is creating a LOT of pressure drop so reducing potential airflow. We all need some flexible hose, but reducing the length to a minimum reduces pressure drop.
Mattias Wandel just posted a good video showing the effect of hose size on shop vac and dust collector performance.
You have a LOT of fittings on the system. Every fitting adds pressure drop.
Try using only one of the PVC pipes and compare the amount of suction/dust collected.
ruclips.net/video/d33CQchZHX4/видео.html
Dave.
🤬😘👳🏽♂️😋🦊😚😚🧑🏾🌾🧑🏾🌾👷🏽♀️👷🏽♀️🧑🏾🌾🧑🏾🌾🧑🏽🎤🧑🏽🎤😴.
B.
T as
🤬😘👳🏽♂️😋🦊😚😚🧑🏾🌾🧑🏾🌾👷🏽♀️👷🏽♀️🧑🏾🌾🧑🏾🌾🧑🏽🎤🧑🏽🎤😴.
B.
T as
Agreed, you could attach the hose to one side and block the other, and if you need a miter on the hose side, just switch the hose and block. That's what I thought he was going to do at the beginning.
I finished a procrastination/anxiety induced binge watch of every video of aging wheels and under dunn last night, with the same lost feeling you get when you watch the final episode of a tv show you've been enjoying and you no longer know what to do with your life. I got on youtube this morning to procrastinate more and saw there's another video! Happy days! but now that I've watched it I guess I'll get back to work.....
That was me after watching his bus series.
Great. Now I am depressed, too.
All: Robert...Robert...Robert...! 😇
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ain't that the truth!!
Very cool. I was actually hoping to see you do a 45 degree cut to see how that works. Either your fence pulls apart somehow or you have to make additional cuts into the fence and/or dust collection housing. Maybe I'm missing something.
Two years later and I am wondering the same thing. I assume he has never made a 45 degree cut because as soon as he went to make one, he realized he was going to destroy the whole thing and make it wide open 😂😂
@@IAintScaredOfNoGhost If you watch his video "Making a BirdsEye Maple River Table" video you'll see him make the 45 degree cut at 10m23s.
ruclips.net/video/qYHMIfjOhow/видео.html
Looks good but I'm not sure how well it'll hold up once you start cutting different angles. The first angled cut you make will eliminate the zero clearance aspect of the fence whilst making an additional cut in the hood at the back I.e. reducing its effectiveness.
You would take it out for an angled cut.
@@MartinThmpsn Feels like he rarely does angled cuts on it, but that might just be me.
Having to remove it to miter is a con to all the work that went into it. But if one rarely makes miter cuts all good.
I think the dust collection efficiency will automatically improve over time or after you made a few angled cuts. I fear it might loose a bit of its nice appearance when the star pattern starts to appear on the box, though. :(
when you turn the saw, youl cut of the corner and no more zero clerance.
I highly doubt he’d have wanted a zero clearance fence if he planned to make angled cuts with it. But hey
That's what I was thinking, he's turned his miter saw into a basic 90deg chop saw, with mediocre dust performance . As soon as he starts cutting 45's and such, his box is going to become a shrapnel hazard . I suppose he could just remove the wooden fence when he wants to take a angled cut. This is why saw hoods are the way to go with miter saws.
@@LeglessWonder he does intend to make angled cuts he says so in the video at 9:36
So, a posh workshop, but poverty-spec cars, seems legit... :P
I love the phrase "poverty-spec".
I really appreciate your "no fear" approach to woodworking! While I enjoy working on all types of machinery, and have no fear of disassembling and reassembling complex machines, I have an innate fear of working with wood. It does not like me, and exhibits a contrariness you never experience with metal creations. This from a man whose father and grandfather could (and did) build all types of things with wood-- including houses, barns, piers, bulkheads, porches, stairs, etc. My wood building efforts have resulted in very sturdily made things-- mostly decks-- which would make my father cringe to see the details if he were still alive. Kudos to you, and please keep posting!
My dude, please stop sticking your hand or WHOLE ARM under the saw while it is still plugged in! You're gonna give me a heart attack!
That looks nice. 👏👏👍👏
Did I mention that looks nice ?🤔
Well just in case, I will tell you...........,.........
That looks nice .😎
This is a great work of art. Having recently purchased a 3D printer I'm imagining how much easier most of this build would have been with one.
I'm building some dust collection equipment for my shop with my 3D printer as well. Don't underestimate the ease of just making the simple parts with wood and making fittings etc with the printer. 3D printer is the perfect accessory for the woodshop!
Hey good job, I didn't think we'd see dust collection videos for a while! Sorry for doubting you haha
It does look really nice!
If Norm Abram from the New Yankee Workshop drove a Trabant and a Reliant Robin....
Does anyone know what Norm Abram drives?
@@darthcuny He drives a caaaa.
@@petercolquhoun2086 thank you for that. Do ya think it's a manual?
@@darthcuny probably.....
I too have often thought about the dust collection systems available to the modern woodworker who, even to the present day , usually has to put up with that uncontrollable workshop mess!
I watched your video with great interest as also I have watched two others who have also gone to extreme lengths and had partial success.
At 76 years of age I spend more time thinking about problems than actually physically dealing with them….like dust collection.
What always comes to my mind, when stepping outside of the normal box, is the consideration which never seems to be given to the high speed of the dust coming off the saw blade which, via our own efforts is then directed into the path of the very much slower speed of the suction draft.
It would be fairly simple to utilize the blower side of an extraction unit to direct a flow of assisting air onto each side of the saw blade to encourage better removal of the dust by pushing the dust into the suction draft!
Just a thought
Thomas.
8:25 You perfectly demonstrated why the end grain gluing heuristic has become a horrible myth. End grain glues better than side grain, weak joints come from small glue areas. The lesson of weak end grain gluing is supposed to train you to avoid gluing the narrow ends of structures, but it's poor communication resulted in you re-jiggering your part to make the joint even weaker.
With that said, your surface is big enough for the job and probably will hold up fine, unless you are using a glue that goes brittle, in which case the side grain glue line may break from vibration.
You're a special kind of crazy. I dig it ;)
Haha! I have that SAME miter saw, and I cut the same piece off the saw in the same manner that you did. I thought I was the only nut! 😁
Your grid slats should have run parallel with the blade instead of perpendicular, that would have allowed more air flow near the blade and not blocked portions of particle travel. Just a thought. This is helpful for me because I have the same miter saw. Also, what is the cfm / hp of your collector? It could be undersized, complicating this issue.
Someone’s been watch Frank Howarth :)
I find it commendable to make something useful look nice (dare I say beautiful) when so much that is arguably beautiful is certainly useless. But then the idea of beautiful dust collectors is nothing new. Most grandmas have a few shelves of them.
Great video. You're a tweaker! As long as you're tweaking in the shop, it's a good thing. Thanks for the extra effort.
You forgot to mention it looks nice.
Oops, you’ll destroy the front when you slant the saw and do a 45
So this is many years removed from most of the other comments, but I'm pretty sure that this is far more useful than just a "salad bowl". Also, I think that making smallish, wooden toy versions of some of your cars to be used as amusing decor for your home would be a fun way to kind of further tie both channels together.
Only thing missing is the obligatory walnut accent piece 😉
I absolutely love your over-engineered project. I have a question for you and the other "Think Tankers" ... How can you still have the zero clearance when cutting up to 45 degrees left or right ... eg for Picture Frames? I am setting up something similar with my rebuilt and refurbished Dewalt Powershop 7740 Radial Arm Saw. Your amazing working sculpture is worthy of an engineering award. The challenge as I see it , zero-clearance will cease on the face due to the angle the saw would be cutting, thus increasing the gap on the vertical surface. It would ruin your crafted routed slots. However the zero-clearance just might work on the top only. A fixed hemispherical shape with a matching arc , and mated sliding surface. A thought just came to me ... With the volume of air-suction being generated, It may be possible to widen the vertical gap with straight sides. Unfortunately, your aesthetic horizontal slots would become too brittle, and the potential to break would become very high. I would love to see your approach to the zero-clearance 45 degree challenge. Cheers from South Australia.
It is so much better than before you had it! I have a Bosch Axial Glide, so it is a very different build. I tried making one similar to it, just for proof of concept, and the "snorkel" mod (making the bottom part longer and wider) was way better, which sucks, as yours is really beautiful. I got new tape for my joints (4 inch pipe, 2 hp, 2 stage) as i can hear it hissing and leaking, which could be part of the problem, for sure. Ill keep trying to figure something out.
It makes me glad that I just capped a plastic rectangle dust chute and fit it to the back of my ç12Rsh2..... That much Mahogany would have made most of a guitar in my guitar shop 😂 yours does look nicer😝
I wonder if the dust collection would have been better with vertical openings in the face rather than horizontal. It seems it would be equally strong, still allow for zero-clearance on the blade, and be more likely to allow the flow of shavings from the blade.
5:44 Reminds me of the old saying "Anything can be used as a sextoy, if only you are brave enough".
Just extending the existing boot probably would have worked better. That's how Festool does it.
Did that to my Ridgid (Delta Kruzer) using duct tape and it catches about 80% of the dust now--as opposed to 0%. Took me about 10 minutes to build.
A small but important point. Sliding miter saws are NOT designed for chop cutting. You are ALWAYS supposed to pull the saw out, then plunge, and execute the cut pushing the saw backwards.
Dude your as crazy as a box of cats! Which means your as crazy as me! I know your probably closer to my sons age than me, but, what the hey! When I got married in 1984, one of my groomsmen was my best friend and he was 18 and I was 32. I lost my best friend back in the late 80's to 2 different types of cancer.
I'm curious to see what a miter cut does to that fence... I'm guessing it's not good otherwise you would have shown it. Good looking build though my friend.
Connect just one pipe, and on the other side leave the opening open, and reduce it only a little ... so you will have a side stream of air ... a side stream and a stronger stream that will remove the chips sideways ...away from the direction of rotation of the saw blade😉
I haven't found your white oak saw horses yet. I look forward to the dovetails.
I always wondered how the Rube Goldberg fence was built. Thanks. Entertaining video though. Good job, no sarcasm intended. Really.
Zero clearance.
Only for 90*
Cut ANY angle either direction....
Zero clearance = gone.
Looks freaken awesome as is
😬😀
You have zero clearance Clarence...
Perhaps you could take the fence back to the router and somehow make the grate at a sharper angle so effectively the gap between the grates is a knife edge and avoids collection of material on the face? I think you used a roundover, perhaps a bevel would be better? Yes, I know this is an old video, but this is the internet, how's that going to stop me commenting!
I can’t help thinking of the reason for not showing a 45˚ Cut with your new Zero Clearance miter fence.
Was that 2” tubing..!?
How about reducing it to 1”
It's subjectively pretty, and good work, but why, tho? I mean am I the only one that thinks a square box with a bottom panel cut to match the plate of the saw would look cleaner and nicer than having the little dog ear blocks that cover up the best feature of the thing from any normal viewing angle? Don't know, just don't see the point in spending the time or material in making the curved wall just to cover it all up with big chunks off the sides.
That looks really great.....it hurt when you made the very first cut thru that beautiful mahogany.
Nice looking grid! Honestly it's best to have more air flow and from under the saw and behind, but we gotta work with what we got.
I wonder whether you can improve the dust collection by using a curtain made from brush seal. The one that is used to seal doors. www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/gadobrse.html They have self-sticking strips and can be mounted to any flat surface. I would construct a frame that conforms to the workpiece to be cut any close the gap with those brushseals. On top I put a transparent hood. Whaddaya think?
Looks REALLY good, but what good is a zero clearence insert on a miter saw that cuts up? You would need a "zero clearence insert" on the top of your workpiece to support the cut fibers...if that was your intention.
Hmm... I wonder how difficult this would be to make for my Festool Kapex...just sayin. I did a version of this for my radial arm saw.
Nice work!! BTW, end grain to side grain or end grain is stronger than side grain to side grain... but any fit up is very strong because GLUE.
I might have you beat on "pointlessly large amount of effort"
Just finished making my own pegboard for a wall. From oak plywood.
I just finished drilling - by hand - five. Thousand. Holes.
Hmmm... I was just looking for a simple way to hook up my shop-vac... maybe I'll just be a machinist instead.
i love your videos mate, but i wish you'd take several smaller passes with your router table, im always wincing when i see footage of you using it expecting spinny angry shards of death to fly up ;0)
See a miter saw needs to you know actually cut miters. This is now a chop saw. And even a cheap chop saw can still be rotated to chop at angles. This is a 90° only cutting chop saw. I'd rather breath dust
Thanks for showing PVC cuts - curious to see - The PVC chips go everywhere and have a static electricity to them that seems to magnetize them to my whole shop..
So you have an expensive saw that you can't utilize. You said you could miter with it, but I certainly don't see how you would do that without ruining the dust grille.
Sorry but I need to day this. I really hate you for using such nice material to build stuff for your shop. I can barely afford 2x4s for my students to use in our schools wood shop. That dust collector must cost more than the saw. Great job though!
Just a thought: maybe instead of using a round over bit on the vent openings, maybe a chamfer bit? This would make the openings wider on the front while still thick (and solid) at the back and the dust more likely to be drawn into the opening itself and have less bounce-back. Just a thought for your next iteration.
Rounding the fronts of your Horizontal slats on the grid should improve your air flow and prevent at least some of the chips from bouncing off of it...
Maybe I missed it but do you have a way to shut off the dust collection on the tools you aren’t using? If you still need any inspiration on dust collection look up Marius Hornberger, he has a dust collection system similar to yours that he made from scratch.
Problem is even miter cuts will destroy a zero clearance box. It would have been better to have created a large shield in the back that would let the sawdust fly back and to be funneled down to be sucked out the bottom. The shields top would have sloped up as it came forward and the two sidewalls would fan out roughly 45° to each side. It would come out to the back of your fence and the top could extend a few inches further and be rounded to match the arc of the swing of the handle for the Saw. This would help to guide the sawdust back so that you could have a collection area behind and below the table of the miter saw they could have a hose in the bottom or low on one side. You could also put a second smaller hose before the blast gate that would have a stopper in it so that after you were done using the miter saw you could remove the stopper and close the blast gate and use that singular hose to clean up whatever little bit didn’t go back to the collection area and then shut off your vacuum and re-insert the stopper.
6:55 Do not taunt Spinny Angry bit! Same directions that come with Happy Fun Ball!
Cutting out 1 or 2 of the cross bars in the fence would increase the airflow and may capture more dust? You could still leave the vertical portion in the middle for zero tolerance.
I don't understand why you can't remove the grid of holes on each side (ie a hole on each side with the middle piece intact). You'd still have zero clearance in the middle and you'd have improved air flow.
The part you made looks very reminiscent of an old 1950s cars air central interior vent, I can just imagine it in the centre dash facing a bench seat
Block the 2 top rows in the fence because they are pulling most air through them because the least amount of obstruction so by blocking them off and making the air be forced through the bottom means the system will work better for dust collection
I perform the same type of builds as you , I was an electrical engineer but now retired I hate to waste time on plans ; for they always change During the build anyway🙃
Love ya work mate. That Mitre Saw Fence / Dust Port would give a Jelly Fish a Hardon!
Hi mate, what's the wireless fob thing you're using to turn your dust collector on? I'm looking for something similar
Should we start calling you Ron Swanson? You keep using so much mahogany. That’s not a bad thing.
u my friend are not under dunn....you are quite precise and well thought out...just saying!!!!!
So are you going to build additional units for 30 and 45 degree left and right? Maybe alternating layers of dark and light woods?
Robert, That was some pretty snazzy work you did making the curved enclosure!
Just so you know, end-grain gluing is stronger. It's a myth that people just kept passing down that it was a weaker joint.
How about leaving the zero clearance and removing the horizontal slats in the sides of the backstop?
Who needs a 3D printer when you have skills and mahogany. Bubinga for the router fence?
I've never had the luxury of making an edging piece out of mahogany. :) Nice.
A year late but good job, another great video, check out hooked on wood, he also made zero clearance interchangeable fence insert.