Under 3,000 psi with 325’ of hose is quite impressive, especially with how tight that mud looked. I don’t think I could even come close to that. I get up to 200ft and I really have to get the mud to the perfect slump to keep me and the pool guys happy.
Yeah man, our TK60HP would have been mid-3500’s on a lunch like this for sure. This unit seems to operate very efficiently. I would LOVE to get my hands on a 1005H (the high-pressure variation).
@@ConcretePumpingService 2” rubber all the way. We Had planned on running 50’ of 3” steel pipe and then tapering down to 2” rubber, but missing our ferry delayed us by 2 hours so by the time we got there it was setup as quick as we possibly could.
@@ConcretePumpingService I think the VSP60HP would be the ultimate rig for a guy whom does a lot of shotcrete as well as some regular work in between. That’s 100% the line-pump I want.
Same here, the only time I ever use 4x4 is backing up an incline or maybe in a soggy situation where I’m not wanting to take a chance. Backing out of a gravel incline is a biscuit without 4wd!
I have a transcrete concrete pump that’s manufactured in Australia. I have done a 150m line and I used 1 bucket of bricklayers sand as primer to get it all through.
Nice review, i would like to give it a whirl, Trailer backing takes a bit of practice, spotting, and traction conditions. Thanks for taking us along, Norm for the 🏆 win
In comparison to our C50SS this would likely be like going from a Mustang, to a Miata! 😂😂😂 All joking aside, it’s a very stout unit for an “all around” size of pump. Super impressed.
I would love to work with you, I have experience but with you I can learn much more. I love the line pump and that Thom Katt one is on another level.🔥💪🇵🇷🤝🇺🇸🇨🇦🇵🇷💪🔥
I was honestly most nervous just getting it through the first elbow/reducers. Once we got that first bit of mud into the 5 gallon pail, I was at least 63.7% confident that we’d get it through the 300+ feet of hose 😂😂😂
A Nice video scott and a nice putzmeister trailerpump 👍🏻 have a nice and good christmas with the familly greetings Piet from Amsterdam -The Netherlands 👍🏻
Hey Scott Great video., I have a 1004 works great, remote struggles to get through concrete walls, Machine turns off when reception is lost. Also, stroke change is in the settings, a pain when washing out. Other than that it's a work horse.
Yes, we had that once. What a nuisance. I’ve been told that the software can be easily updated as such that the engine does not die when the radio loses signal.
I was also curious about how much room you had to change the mud cups. The Schwing ones come out of the water box. If the putz is the same way it didn’t appear that their was much room to work on those.
Flatbed dually 3500 or 4500 with 4wd is the only way to go pulling a trailer pump. I’m sure you’ve already done something since this video is 6 months old.
We just had this rig as a loaner. TK60HP unit is back up and running and truck mounted in the NRR chassis. 100% of we ever did run a separate trailer until full-time we’d be taking your advice (the 2WD setup was next to useless for hauling that trailer around).
And here I am, looking at replacing piston cups in a TK50 in the new year.. how does this pump look under the hood? Lots of room for changing cups? Or still got the hydraulic pump hanging over the water box?
Putzmeister dice que la operación con las compuertas laterales abiertas de la serie 1000 tienen que estar cerradas ya que abra recalentamiento de motor lo otro reduce la vida útil de las compuertas por qué son de fibra de vidrio ,,, noce si lo sabes pero todos los días se aprende algo bendiciones colegas del bombeo💪
Lo otro según fabrica lo que hacen estas compuertas es insonorizar los desiveles de ruidos provocados por el motor en marcha en altas revoluciones, si usted la ve el radiador no tiene ninguna obstrucción para absorber aire frío del exterior
Lo otro es que las compuertas hacen la vez de una especie de enfocador de aire al estar cerradas para darle un mejor enfriamiento al motor C3.6 caterpillar
This is interesting information. On our older high-rise pumps it was always leave the side doors open for better airflow. I’m assuming if Putz is wanting the doors down on this newer series of pump it must be that the design is similar to that of a fan shroud on a radiator and air is designed to flow through the unit in a very specific manner. We had the doors up on this pour so that we could keep an eye on everything just incase there were any loose fittings etc.. from factory. Either way, with our temperatures here during the winter, we’re not too worried about it running it. Summertime could be a different story. Appreciate you watching and commenting brother 🙏
Ok mi hermano bueno si en esa unidad.el bloque fue re.diseñado pero son comentarios no malos y si veo tus videos me gustan mucho por la clase de unidades que tienes i como explicas es genial mi hermano así que ese vídeo está genial
Putz has had these for years on their boom pumps as well. I’m not a fan as they prevent my from spotting if a grease line has broken or S-tube nut/retainer are backing off. I’m sure Putz has them in place for potential liability reasons. Wouldn’t surprise me if they have a high rate of “disappearing” when the machine is in for service….
Thanks if you keep it busy about 25% of time you can make a small profit or break even, more than 25% utilization and you fill your pockets.@@canadianconcretepumper1979
Hey do you guys prime with a ball in front of the concrete? That’s how i was taught how to do it. If not what do you just run primer through & then start pumping concrete through?
So I’ve tried the sponge ahead of the primer a few times, and for whatever reason (I believe it’s the type/quantity) it san in our mixes, it always seems to create a dry-pack by the 2-3 hose mark. Because we use smaller line (2” and 2.5”) I don’t believe the primer running ahead of the concrete is as much of an issue as it would be with using say 4” or even 3” line. I’ve been wanting to try the sponge again in an upcoming video, mostly just to show what happens when we use it with our material. Appreciate the great comment 🙏🙏🙏
@@QPkam we use it at the couplings to keep the primer from running ahead of the concrete. Can’t get plastic bags around here any more, so we’ve started using caution tape instead.
This is why we have an air pressure gauge on all of our blowout caps and do not exceed only the pressure required to keep the concrete moving through the lines. Yes however, when using air to clean out hoses/lines there is inherent danger and as such it MUST be treated with respect. Air is definitely recommended for those new to pumping concrete.
Dude more of the escalator , that never gets old👍
lol!!!! Don’t encourage him 😂😂😂
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 too late
Nice pump great videos as usual keep up the great work .your a legend in Canada!
Glad you enjoyed it brotha! 🤟🤟🤟
Under 3,000 psi with 325’ of hose is quite impressive, especially with how tight that mud looked. I don’t think I could even come close to that. I get up to 200ft and I really have to get the mud to the perfect slump to keep me and the pool guys happy.
Yeah man, our TK60HP would have been mid-3500’s on a lunch like this for sure. This unit seems to operate very efficiently. I would LOVE to get my hands on a 1005H (the high-pressure variation).
After watching this video, I think a 1005H would be a beast of a unit. Did you run 2” all the way?
@@ConcretePumpingService 2” rubber all the way. We
Had planned on running 50’ of 3” steel pipe and then tapering down to 2” rubber, but missing our ferry delayed us by 2 hours so by the time we got there it was setup as quick as we possibly could.
@@ConcretePumpingService I think the VSP60HP would be the ultimate rig for a guy whom does a lot of shotcrete as well as some regular work in between. That’s 100% the line-pump I want.
We got a Tk60hp pumping 2” slump over 275ft of hoses high 3800 almost 4k 😂
Main reason I have 4 wheel drive is for backing out of places. Those machines weigh so much they can be difficult backing up. Especially on gravel.
I think our little Isuzu was doomed from the get-go….. especially considering the roster of available candidates to jump behind the wheel 😂😂😂😂
Same here, the only time I ever use 4x4 is backing up an incline or maybe in a soggy situation where I’m not wanting to take a chance. Backing out of a gravel incline is a biscuit without 4wd!
I have a transcrete concrete pump that’s manufactured in Australia. I have done a 150m line and I used 1 bucket of bricklayers sand as primer to get it all through.
I’ve had a few guys mention using masonry sand. No issues at all with it not having and cementitious materials in it to help “lubricate” the lines?
Nice review, i would like to give it a whirl,
Trailer backing takes a bit of practice, spotting, and traction conditions. Thanks for taking us along,
Norm for the 🏆 win
In comparison to our C50SS this would likely be like going from a Mustang, to a Miata! 😂😂😂
All joking aside, it’s a very stout unit for an “all around” size of pump. Super impressed.
And Mark, you DO NOT want to see me try and back up a trailer 😂😂😂
I would love to work with you, I have experience but with you I can learn much more. I love the line pump and that Thom Katt one is on another level.🔥💪🇵🇷🤝🇺🇸🇨🇦🇵🇷💪🔥
One of the more anxious prime outs I’ve watched in a while lol! Merry Christmas to you and the family!
No kidding. My heart was beating hard like I was there! I knew Ian had it under control though.
@@MuddyfeetConcretePumping I had faith!!
I was honestly most nervous just getting it through the first elbow/reducers. Once we got that first bit of mud into the 5 gallon pail, I was at least 63.7% confident that we’d get it through the 300+ feet of hose 😂😂😂
Merry Christmas to you as well Jon. Looking forward to seeing you at the show in January.
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 absolutely! Come see me! We’ll have lots of cool new stuff this year!
A Nice video scott and a nice putzmeister trailerpump 👍🏻 have a nice and good christmas with the familly greetings Piet from Amsterdam -The Netherlands 👍🏻
Same thing I you Pieter. I LOVE this pump unit. If only we could truck-mount it 😁
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 Thank you Scott 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Scott Great video., I have a 1004 works great, remote struggles to get through concrete walls, Machine turns off when reception is lost. Also, stroke change is in the settings, a pain when washing out. Other than that it's a work horse.
Yes, we had that once. What a nuisance. I’ve been told that the software can be easily updated as such that the engine does not die when the radio loses signal.
Side doors are supposed to be shut for correct motor cooling correct!
Merry Christmas!🎄
Same to you Andrew. Appreciate you following the channel all year 😁
Honorary Trailer Pump Boys!
What does the TK60hp need for service?
I was also curious about how much room you had to change the mud cups. The Schwing ones come out of the water box. If the putz is the same way it didn’t appear that their was much room to work on those.
It’s definitely tight, but looks doable. Like still easier than pulling them out through the hopper I would bet.
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 I’ll have a video in a couple of weeks of us changing the mud cups on both our pumps.
Flatbed dually 3500 or 4500 with 4wd is the only way to go pulling a trailer pump. I’m sure you’ve already done something since this video is 6 months old.
We just had this rig as a loaner. TK60HP unit is back up and running and truck mounted in the NRR chassis.
100% of we ever did run a separate trailer until full-time we’d be taking your advice (the 2WD setup was next to useless for hauling that trailer around).
Yo me siento muy orgulloso de ser operador de bomba de hormigón de auge estática line pump amo mucho mi profesión
And here I am, looking at replacing piston cups in a TK50 in the new year.. how does this pump look under the hood? Lots of room for changing cups? Or still got the hydraulic pump hanging over the water box?
We haven’t changed cups on it yet, but it does look a little “cozy” in terms of getting them out of there.
Where is this!! What part of Canada
Putzmeister dice que la operación con las compuertas laterales abiertas de la serie 1000 tienen que estar cerradas ya que abra recalentamiento de motor lo otro reduce la vida útil de las compuertas por qué son de fibra de vidrio ,,, noce si lo sabes pero todos los días se aprende algo bendiciones colegas del bombeo💪
Lo otro según fabrica lo que hacen estas compuertas es insonorizar los desiveles de ruidos provocados por el motor en marcha en altas revoluciones, si usted la ve el radiador no tiene ninguna obstrucción para absorber aire frío del exterior
Lo otro es que las compuertas hacen la vez de una especie de enfocador de aire al estar cerradas para darle un mejor enfriamiento al motor C3.6 caterpillar
This is interesting information. On our older high-rise pumps it was always leave the side doors open for better airflow. I’m assuming if Putz is wanting the doors down on this newer series of pump it must be that the design is similar to that of a fan shroud on a radiator and air is designed to flow through the unit in a very specific manner. We had the doors up on this pour so that we could keep an eye on everything just incase there were any loose fittings etc.. from factory. Either way, with our temperatures here during the winter, we’re not too worried about it running it. Summertime could be a different story.
Appreciate you watching and commenting brother 🙏
Ok mi hermano bueno si en esa unidad.el bloque fue re.diseñado pero son comentarios no malos y si veo tus videos me gustan mucho por la clase de unidades que tienes i como explicas es genial mi hermano así que ese vídeo está genial
whats the cover the ram for is that only on trailer pumps
Putz has had these for years on their boom pumps as well. I’m not a fan as they prevent my from spotting if a grease line has broken or S-tube nut/retainer are backing off. I’m sure Putz has them in place for potential liability reasons. Wouldn’t surprise me if they have a high rate of “disappearing” when the machine is in for service….
Nice Putz great to use the best. How much does it cost full retail? Ray
Roughly $150K CDN dollars (which I believe is around $115K US these days).
Would also depend on selected options etc…
Thanks if you keep it busy about 25% of time you can make a small profit or break even, more than 25% utilization and you fill your pockets.@@canadianconcretepumper1979
Get some six inch too😂
Hey do you guys prime with a ball in front of the concrete? That’s how i was taught how to do it. If not what do you just run primer through & then start pumping concrete through?
So I’ve tried the sponge ahead of the primer a few times, and for whatever reason (I believe it’s the type/quantity) it san in our mixes, it always seems to create a dry-pack by the 2-3 hose mark. Because we use smaller line (2” and 2.5”) I don’t believe the primer running ahead of the concrete is as much of an issue as it would be with using say 4” or even 3” line. I’ve been wanting to try the sponge again in an upcoming video, mostly just to show what happens when we use it with our material.
Appreciate the great comment 🙏🙏🙏
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 btw what’s the caution tape on the clamps for? lol
Never seen that lol
@@QPkam we use it at the couplings to keep the primer from running ahead of the concrete. Can’t get plastic bags around here any more, so we’ve started using caution tape instead.
If the truck had more hp or 4x4 wouldn't have problem backing up hill with soft ground....
I would have to trim those cable ties by the hopper , couldn't have got out the yard with them un cut
Funny you mention that. We actually did add/adjust a few cable-ties once we got the machine back to the yard.
Did you buy that
We have it as a loaner/rental until our TK60HP is sorted/repaired.
Risk, çalışan kişinin hortumu tutması, hava verilirken hortumlara.
This is why we have an air pressure gauge on all of our blowout caps and do not exceed only the pressure required to keep the concrete moving through the lines. Yes however, when using air to clean out hoses/lines there is inherent danger and as such it MUST be treated with respect. Air is definitely recommended for those new to pumping concrete.