Please keep in mind that the transistor housing has contact with plus or minus, internally. You should also check if the transistor gets warm over time. Nice solution and well implemented 👍😊
1:52 - that is a cut: talking about bread board and miniturisation to metalwork and 10 mm hole drilling not expected this way, but a great idea to reuse the id heater . Looks like the id family has become a good donator platform considering all the parts you have found usefull so far. Might also depend on the amount of opportuninties, or cheap but good parts that have been salvaged from donator cars that did not make it. You have found a long lasting solution where I would have gone the unconventional way with a cheap chinese oil heater for an rv bus or so just to have a starting point cause those are relatively cheap as they cost about 80€ or even less and have been used a lot in the past 2 winters by diy guys. But you nailed it and did it the proper way from the very beginning. Still wonder, what might be missing, but it is still an every sunday morning coffee surprise what you will release this time.
Worst case is a FIRE in the relay that you cannot turn off. It will not blow the fuse unless you have an arc-over to something else. Please don't use this contraption. You need hysteresis and a schmitt-trigger to make sure the relay is ON or OFF, not "almost on". With a piece of breadboard, a LM339 and a handful of resistors and a couple of capacitors you are good. You could also use an Arduino and do the schmitt trigger and hysteresis in software. You already have an Arduino in your OLED-display unit. It could easily also run the heating, as it would only require one analog input and one digital output.
It’s not the final product as I also explaining in the video. The main relay will definitely handle to open op the circuit if I turn them of. The 30 fuse will blow if the cables getting hot and make a short circuit. The oled display are controlled from the resolver motor ecu. Thanks for your information.
@@flyingtools You are too casual with the HV from the battery. A relay i would say it's the worst thing you can use there. I recall they don't like to open under load, DC load, even if they are DC rated. Use a SIC mosfet driven from an insulated gate driver, for the power supply you can use any 110-220V 24v 0.5A adapter, if you go with Silicon FET just use 12V adapter. The PTC heater is usually installed in the lowest point of the car so no air will stuck inside. If the relay fails it will catch on fire, the water will start to boil, less surface on the PTC covered by water, thermal runaway.
Long videos are good videos. I suggest just keep it simple, add a hysterisis using an opamp to drive the fet and one leg of the opamp is your thermocouple, the other is an adjustment pot. Simpler and more reliable than using the arduino.
hello from germany again! Your car is getting better every time as you go along, so keep on going your own way and ignore some comments! When I heard the relays noise, I could understand why you are concerned about arc-creation. 👍
Thank you so much. I can understand those comments too, this is not the safest way to do it, I will make it safer in the future. Thank you so much for your comment ☺️
Looks good, but tinkering a PWM controlled heating unit shouldn’t be to complicated. Would be much more comfortable and save energy. 😊 Or just switching the three heating coils with 3 relais via switch in steps - 1-2-3 ?
All of that is in my mind to. My plan is to use the old circuit board and use the mosfets for both pwm and in separate stages. Complete new to coding this stuff but I hope to learn it soon.
I know that other electric vehicles have direct air heating. Really? . Is it better to heat the air directly with the honeycomb or is it more economical by heating the honeycomb liquid?
Hi! I think it’s a little more efficient. In my case I will have some heat losses from the heater itself due to its location. Thanks for your question☺️
I like the longer videos. They are very satisfying
Please keep in mind that the transistor housing has contact with plus or minus, internally. You should also check if the transistor gets warm over time. Nice solution and well implemented 👍😊
Thank you, good tip!!
1:52 - that is a cut: talking about bread board and miniturisation to metalwork and 10 mm hole drilling
not expected this way, but a great idea to reuse the id heater . Looks like the id family has become a good donator platform considering all the parts you have found usefull so far. Might also depend on the amount of opportuninties, or cheap but good parts that have been salvaged from donator cars that did not make it.
You have found a long lasting solution where I would have gone the unconventional way with a cheap chinese oil heater for an rv bus or so just to have a starting point cause those are relatively cheap as they cost about 80€ or even less and have been used a lot in the past 2 winters by diy guys.
But you nailed it and did it the proper way from the very beginning. Still wonder, what might be missing, but it is still an every sunday morning coffee surprise what you will release this time.
Seems that heating solution will make it hotter than the standard VAG heater matrix ICE setup ever could.
Worst case is a FIRE in the relay that you cannot turn off. It will not blow the fuse unless you have an arc-over to something else. Please don't use this contraption. You need hysteresis and a schmitt-trigger to make sure the relay is ON or OFF, not "almost on". With a piece of breadboard, a LM339 and a handful of resistors and a couple of capacitors you are good. You could also use an Arduino and do the schmitt trigger and hysteresis in software. You already have an Arduino in your OLED-display unit. It could easily also run the heating, as it would only require one analog input and one digital output.
It’s not the final product as I also explaining in the video. The main relay will definitely handle to open op the circuit if I turn them of. The 30 fuse will blow if the cables getting hot and make a short circuit. The oled display are controlled from the resolver motor ecu.
Thanks for your information.
@@flyingtools You are too casual with the HV from the battery. A relay i would say it's the worst thing you can use there. I recall they don't like to open under load, DC load, even if they are DC rated. Use a SIC mosfet driven from an insulated gate driver, for the power supply you can use any 110-220V 24v 0.5A adapter, if you go with Silicon FET just use 12V adapter. The PTC heater is usually installed in the lowest point of the car so no air will stuck inside. If the relay fails it will catch on fire, the water will start to boil, less surface on the PTC covered by water, thermal runaway.
That was a good idea with the ac adapter, thanks😃👍🏻
Long videos are good videos.
I suggest just keep it simple, add a hysterisis using an opamp to drive the fet and one leg of the opamp is your thermocouple, the other is an adjustment pot. Simpler and more reliable than using the arduino.
so using the opamp as a comparator
@@haraldpost Yes, with some positive feedback added - resistor between output and +input.
hello from germany again!
Your car is getting better every time as you go along, so keep on going your own way and ignore some comments!
When I heard the relays noise, I could understand why you are concerned about arc-creation.
👍
Thank you so much. I can understand those comments too, this is not the safest way to do it, I will make it safer in the future. Thank you so much for your comment ☺️
Great video as always!
Thanks 😊
Again, awesome video. thanks
Thanks 🙏 ☺️
Another brilliant work. You have infinite tools for everything. Whats is the comsumption of this heating system in kWh?
At this temperature around 2,5kWh.
A duty cycle at 50%
Good question.
Thank you so much 😊
Looks good, but tinkering a PWM controlled heating unit shouldn’t be to complicated. Would be much more comfortable and save energy. 😊
Or just switching the three heating coils with 3 relais via switch in steps - 1-2-3 ?
All of that is in my mind to. My plan is to use the old circuit board and use the mosfets for both pwm and in separate stages. Complete new to coding this stuff but I hope to learn it soon.
Final this thing at least wont beat my 40 year newer nv200 in range, throwing 5kW into the heater per hour!
I still can turn it off, 😉 and it’s not continuous at 5kW rather 2,5 in average.
What's that tool you have for those really annoying clips on the water hoses for the heater?
www.amazon.com/Clamp-Pliers-inches-Flexible-Cable/dp/B0917J3DBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S4Oat0CqbnMM7jyfnTEvTQEV9ZGUW9EOeaW4urCdyPe9wN4IZvsWEc38-Q1aPE4Iu-0eFWZKxAEwVQvYPBCpRSR_Y2MSTwG1kqSZJwBlyHSkdl1uWtyNHwDecUosaMPfvlvvHHhtRtzmGWzTAVV91ldX6bF0-iqR5hx-XhM0QuYd_ErPQHiJ4QI3epGuRDwYp2UlDTQKojZqteSKrEFpeQ.zcsZY77j7sBoWy0mhAc79fl15dLlDjU3Q-wEU7iCHBs&dib_tag=se&keywords=spring+clamp+pliers&qid=1729186826&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Snyggt 😁😎👍
Tack😃
Great🎉🎉
I know that other electric vehicles have direct air heating. Really? . Is it better to heat the air directly with the honeycomb or is it more economical by heating the honeycomb liquid?
Hi!
I think it’s a little more efficient. In my case I will have some heat losses from the heater itself due to its location.
Thanks for your question☺️
I can help with air conditioner, but U not install old water heater?
Thanks, but I’m fully certified to work with mobile air conditioning systems myself.
Yes, much simpler. Only summer car you know.