Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
A cheap and neglected auction find... Can I fix it?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- I usually don’t buy anything unless it is at least in very good cosmetic condition and boxed. But I made an exception for this model. I placed a low bid, which to my surprise, was enough to win the auction. So, let’s have a look at what I got for the money and what to do with it...
I am always looking for 1980s Märklin items, in original box and in good condition, feel free to contact me using the channel email address.
Enjoy!
Channel email: the3rdrailchannel@gmail.com
Sous titrage auto-traduit disponible, pour voir comment faire: • Petite astuce - Sous-t...
Automatisch übersetzte Untertitel verfügbar, wie macht man das? Siehe: • Kleiner Tipp - RUclips...
Credits:
www.märklin.de
www.wikipedia.org
www.reichsbahn.nl
#Märklin #Vintage #analog #tmrguk
Marklin, Spielbahn , Märklin, Märklin H0, Märklin H0 model Railway, Märklin Bahn, Märklin Anlage, Märklin M Gleis, Märklin M-track, Märklin Modellbahn, Märklin Vintage, Model Railway, Model railroad, Märklin Retro, Märklin Nostalgie, Märklin Tinplate , Märklin Layout, Märklin running video, Modelleisenbahn, Modellbahn, M Gleis, M Track, Diecast, running session, M-Gleis, Nostalgie Bahn, Spur H0, alte Spielbahn, Märklin Trains, alte Märklin Bahn, nostalgieanlage, marklin automatik, marklin automation, analoger fahrbetrieb roulage m-gleis , voie M model trains, moba, märklin model railroad, #mobaanalog, Märklin 3518, S3/6, BR18.4, Rheingold, repair Märklin, fix repair, restore märklin trains
![Chuckyy - Devil Hours [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f3wZGj0VnZU/mqdefault.jpg)
I think it is beautiful as it was, locomotives live and lived hard lives. Weathering, damaged paint and parts is reality, not some super shiny pin-up babe quality 😊 I will try to weather my trains in the near future, in my opinion it gives extra touche to the while scenery. Great video!
Thanks a lot. Have fun with your paintbrushes.
Second time I watch this video and I enjoyed it as much if not more than the first time.
I enjoyed you reviving a bargain purchase as much as I do.
Wow, thank you!
hello, nice work, well done and really great with steam, greetings Kai👌👌👍👍😊😊
Thank you very much Kai!
Really nice video, I enjoyed it a lot. Thank you!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice video indeed. I think this is the kind of content that suits most the channel's style: repairs and barn finds :P
Thanks a lot, will bear in mind...
@@The3rdRail Besides, your relaxed editing style and soothing voice really are a perfect fit for this kind of content, imho.
You are too kind good Sir!
Your amazing and very knowledgeable I wish you were my neighbor
You are too kind...
Hello my friend a fabulous engine a superb model enjoyed your synapses on this engines very good buy 🤗👍 very nice impressive have a good weekend cheers for now al 🚂🤗👍👍🤗
Glad to hear that it left such a good impression 😉
@@The3rdRail 🚂🚂👍👍
Very nice restoration. I really enjoy your videos. Marklin models from 1950s to 1980s are sure high quality. I've just started my collection and will build a small analog layout. I learn a lot from your films. All the best & Merry Christmas ! Felix
Thanks Felix. Best wishes!
Well done and a real bargain for £60. Looks great on the layout pulling the Rheingold express.
Many thanks!
To do some nitpicking:
I've read that this variant of the S3/6 didn't pull the Rheingold train. As far as I understood the explanation, it comes down to the shape of the cabin. The Märklin model and the one at 0:40 have a V-shape while the ones at 0:50 and 0:55 with the train has a cabin with a flat front.
The other loco at 0:25 and 0:35 is a Class C from the neighbour province Württemberg. Märklin 3_11 with Faulhaber motor. As far as I remember quite expensive.
Fun fact: 4:21 "Made in West Germany". Yes, that's from the time with two Germanies.
A beautiful machine, money well spent. Now I’ve done about the same paint jobs on a BR3. And I got the best result on that red striping, silver rings and black cabin / chassis by using Vallejo Air and a 000 brush working in very thin layers. It takes time but the result is “as new”.
Good job! thanks for the visit.
Excellent detailed description of what was needed to get it back to glory 😊 very informative about the compensating board. 😊
Thanks a lot!
Nice save of the locomotive. I enjoy see how to fix locomotives. This is a skill I am not good at - one day I will fix some very old damaged analogue locomotives I have. Enjoy ;-)
Thank you very much!
so nice 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video. 😁😁😃😃🙋♂️👍👍
Thanks 👍
Bravo. Explications détaillées, réflexions sur les meilleures options, vraiment intéressant. J’aurait aimé voir l’état du rotor et l’intérieur du moteur. Une bonne affaire et un peu de boulot pour sauver ce trésor.
Merci Stéphane. Un coup d'oeil sur le pot de cotons tiges (pause vers 15:32) devrait vous donner une idée de l'état du compartiment moteur 😉 Graphite, graphite et encore graphite... Bon Dimanche
If the front numbers are "raised" you can restore the numbers with a technique called dry brushing.
no raised number on this one, but thanks for the comment
As usual, a very informative and entertaining video, I think I have the digital version, and just bought the metal version of the Rheingold with a green S 3/6, soon to be on my layout…
Glad you found the video entertaining, Have fun!
Nice restoration. 🙂 the 5* propulsion only has acceleration control. Deaccaleration is not possible with analog mode, because if you decrease the voltage instantly, the control electronics need to follow instantly, due to the lack of power.
Glad you found the "restoration" nice :) I don't think I said the 5* system provides deceleration control in the video, but thanks for clarifying if I wasn't clear. What 5* star will try and do is regulate the power to the motor based on the motor load and the voltage available. It is good enough to increase the power by a margin (it uses op amps for this if I am not mistaken) which allows a more even speed going up a ramp for example. When the load drops, for example going downhill, it will reduce the amount of power delivered to the motor, again by a small margin, to help the locomotive in keeping its speed, which doesn't work too well with the type of motor fitted in this locomotive in the downhill scenario, but does work on level (flat) track (think curve followed by straight section of track: curve=power up, straight=power down, effect=even speed). All this happens in a linear fashion based on the voltage available on the track. The downhill speed bit works much better with the 3511 and its faulhaber motor. Thanks for the visit!
I am puzzled about the chimney band. They are identical colours to the Danish State Railway (DSB) chimney band colours. I guess they liked these colours in Germany 😃
Red and white are used a lot on flags of many countries.
I'm working on restoring a switcher; just waiting on the parts to get here from Germany.
good luck...
it looks to me like you've obtained a bargain there. My latest purchase is a BR24 (36249) and it was also a good buy at £150-00 (Price on Box 229-00 Euro. I think I did look at the BR18 you bought on eBay, but as it wasnt digital I wasnt interested.
It certainly kept me busy...
Hi, sorry to bother you but I've watched the majority of you videos and read most of the comments on the fix it videos, but I was wondering which lithium grease you use/prefer? I'm 3rd generation marklin and I doubt any of the locos I have will have ever been serviced properly or at all and before they get run by the 4th generation I would love to give them a once over with stuff that obviously works for someone else. My local store sells lithium in 3 different colours, spray, tube, etc so it's getting a bit confusing. 🙂
Hi, it is no bother at all. I use generic lithium grease in gel form I bought on amazon , so sold in a tube. The color is not important. You could also use a PFTE lubricant or model railway grease. The main reason to use this is that it adheres to surfaces better than oil and doesn't harden over time. I apply the stuff mostly on the end of motor armature shafts, so a small tube lasts an eternity.
@@The3rdRail Thanks for the reply. I was just worried I might get the wrong stuff 🙂. Keep up the good work. Your videos are one of the reasons I pulled my locos out of storage after 22 years.
I'm trying to restore one, but I need your advice on which inks I should use (black and red). King regards, Sean.
look in this video: ruclips.net/video/9rd7OMXzPTg/видео.html
Thank you.
I thought all 5 pole motors had permanent magnet on from factory? Was that a five pole anchor inside that magnet?
The first 5 pole motors made by marklin were for the analogue 5 star propulsion system which still used an electromagnet. The 5 pole motor configuration you are referring to only became standard in the 21st century. There is also a description of the 5-star propulsion system in the video in case you have missed it.
As far as I remember at that time none of the classic motors had permanent magnets except of the DC "Hamo" variants. Even the first generation digital and later Delta.
Tha analog five star had adjustable speed and acceleration similar to the later 37xx digital.
I have read (and Märklin service confirmed) that the rotor also has to be replaced when installing a decoder.
Reichsbahn
S3/6