SO MANY people on YT bang their cameras around! As someone who handles my stuff really carefully I really appreciate how gently you handled such a nice piece of equipment👍🏼
The last medium format I used was a Rolleiflex. I recently acquired a Yashica, which, at a glance, is very similar - but not exactly! Thanks for helping me get acquainted with the new camera. I feel much more confident about using it now.
I just received my Mat 124G and was a bit unsure how to lead the film. I appreciate the thoroughness and detail, specifically the watch out around the lynch pin spring when loading the film. I also found it handy on how to line up the light meter. Very informative. Thank you
Top tip: both the spool retaining plungers have a lock to make loading easier: pull them out, then give them a quarter turn. Load the spool, then turn again the release the plunger. MUCH easier than trying to hold the plunger out under spring tension with one hand and align the spool with the other!
If you're thinking about a 124G - Do it. The optics are great and the pictures are beautiful especially if all you have been shooting is 35 or digital. The 124 has a little more metal than the 124G. The G stands for Gold plated contacts. Other than that, one is as good as the other. The Yashica D is nice but the optics are not as good and it doesn't have a light meter. From Experience: If you tighten the tripod screw too much, it will cause the camera to jam. Take it off and it works just fine. This one stumped me for a little bit.
some years ago, I decided to buy a TLR. Having access to a camera store gave me the opportunity to test the 4-element Tessar-copy lenses on a half dozen TLRs, German and Japanese. In summary, the Yashica 124G was not just the worst, but it was by a considerable margin the worst. The best was a Minollta Autocord, followed closely by a Rolleiflex with a Tessar lens and then a Ricoh Diacord. A friend's Rolleiflex E with 3.5 Planar lens was in the mix although its lens is considered much superior to the Tessar. In his case, we discovered that his camera's images were crap and its taking lens was misaligned with the viewing/focusing lens - a cheap repair. Most of Yashica TLRs from the late '50s on mounted the same 4-element Yashinon. Having owned two Yashica TLRs over the years, the only good comment I'll give 'em is that the 6x6cm negative is so large, getting minimal enlargement, that its images look great scanned on a computer and fine in prints up to 11x14 inches in size. If you just have to have one, the best buy is the Yashica 12; functionally the same as a 124G without the useless meter and more heavily (durably) built.
I just got mine today, advancing the film and then turning it back was kind of confusing at first. But got a hang of it now and i cant wait to get shooting
Good to point out the risk of damage when attempting to use self-timer with flash M. Of course, there is no reason why anyone would use M (unless they were obsessively antiquarian rather than interested in the high-quality photography of which this camera is capable, and they had acquired expendable magnesium-flash bulbs which were obsolete when this camera was built). Always X for electronic flash.
One question. Do you know whether or not the shutter is tied into the battery? If the battery is dead, will the shutter still work? I have an old 669 Polaroid camera that the shutter will not work if the battery is dead but other cameras that the battery only affects the light meter. Great video thanks!
Hey bro, just wondering if there is no film, if you wind the crank, it would keep winding yes? If you take a shot, would the counter jump to 1 or remain at S? Thanks
Very informative! Thanks! I was wondering if this camera can only go at the full stops for aperture and shutter speed for example only 1/125, 1/250 etc and f5.6, f8 etc or if I turn the dial to that it is one third between 1/125 to the 1/250 mark, the shutter fires at 1/160? I just got this camera a few days ago and would love to know
The shutter operates on full stops only but I believe the Aperture is continuous - a way to test this would be to put the camera on a tripod and point it at a constant light source. If you turn the Aperture dial slowly and the needle moves smoothly then it allows incremental adjustment. Enjoy your new camera it’s a real gem!
Jonathan Notley thanks! Unfortunately, I don't think I will be able to get a hold of a battery so I wouldn't be able to test that using the light meter... It won't be a big deal if I can't as I use colour negative only so I can slightly overexpose if needed
Jonathan Notley thanks, another question... Can I use a cable shutter release with it? I have one that I use for my Nikon F4 which screws on the Yashica but worried that if it isn't compatible, it could damage it?
Thank you for your very thorough and informative video. I mailed my Yashica Mat 124 off for repairs and when I get it back I will use your video to get started. Question, is that a Rolex on your wrist? I am an Explorer and Sub fan. 👍 Mark
Just got one and put my first film in. Can you help me out? There is something strange going on with mine. I wound the film to the appropriate start position. In the exposure mode reminder window, directly above the crank it says 24, but I have the pressure plate in the 12 exposure position. Also, the exposure counter window shows what looks more like a "V" than a 1. Do you have any idea what is going on with this?
Hmmmm. I’m wondering if perhaps you chose the 220 plate setting or wound on too far but unfortunately you’d have to open the camera to find out. Does the shutter fire? Try firing a frame and see if that gives you a number.
There's only a couple of inches difference! You get used to make an allowance for parallax. Cecil Beaton used Rolleis for 40 years. David Bailey used Rolleis for some of his famous 1960s pictures. Bill Brandt used a Rollei. Irving Penn used Rolleis for most of his famous portraits. Vivian Maier took her wonderful street photos on a Rollei. I could go on. But it was a practical camera for world-famous photographers.
You can use a commonly available alkaline cell and adjust the ASA meter speed setting to compensate of the approximately one stop high reading or the meter based on excess battery voltage, or you can use a Wein zinc-air cell, which generates a voltage close to the mercury cell the camera was designed to use. Or, you can use a decent hand-held meter, which is probably the most convenient in the end. You couild have gthe meter circuit modified to take a modern battery, but it's probably not worth the cost.
What happens if I accidentally wound the film way past the arrow mark? I didn't know how to unwind (if that's even possible) so just tried to guess a good place to leave it and closed it. Then I wound the lever a bit too far to "2" without clicking the shutter button. If I end up at an arbitrary spot on the film, will that mess up the images on the cutting room table, or does it not matter similar to 35mm?
Just starting to get acquainted with this camera. So if I don't have plans on using the self timer or a flash then I should keep the lever set to N instead of X and not have to worry about it? The X is only for when using the flash and timer?
Derek Toye The X is where it should stay all of the time. The M setting is for a special kind of flash setup that is obsolete. You can use your self timer in the X position, if you try to use the timer in the M position the shutter can become jammed. From what I've heard the remedy for this if it happens is to switch it back to X position and try to work the shutter. I've heard that you may need to play around with the settings and keep working the shutter until the shutter unjambs. If you can't fix it this way then a professional probably needs to do it for you but it can be done.
Jonathan Notley Thanks for the video! I recieved this from my friend a few months back, finally decided to give it a try at 1AM in California. Literally learned along through this video, I will definitely look at battery stuff after i get rested. 😂😀 Thanks again!
SO MANY people on YT bang their cameras around! As someone who handles my stuff really carefully I really appreciate how gently you handled such a nice piece of equipment👍🏼
The last medium format I used was a Rolleiflex. I recently acquired a Yashica, which, at a glance, is very similar - but not exactly! Thanks for helping me get acquainted with the new camera. I feel much more confident about using it now.
I just received my Mat 124G and was a bit unsure how to lead the film. I appreciate the thoroughness and detail, specifically the watch out around the lynch pin spring when loading the film. I also found it handy on how to line up the light meter. Very informative. Thank you
Top tip: both the spool retaining plungers have a lock to make loading easier: pull them out, then give them a quarter turn. Load the spool, then turn again the release the plunger. MUCH easier than trying to hold the plunger out under spring tension with one hand and align the spool with the other!
If you're thinking about a 124G - Do it. The optics are great and the pictures are beautiful especially if all you have been shooting is 35 or digital. The 124 has a little more metal than the 124G. The G stands for Gold plated contacts. Other than that, one is as good as the other. The Yashica D is nice but the optics are not as good and it doesn't have a light meter. From Experience: If you tighten the tripod screw too much, it will cause the camera to jam. Take it off and it works just fine. This one stumped me for a little bit.
some years ago, I decided to buy a TLR. Having access to a camera store gave me the opportunity to test the 4-element Tessar-copy lenses on a half dozen TLRs, German and Japanese. In summary, the Yashica 124G was not just the worst, but it was by a considerable margin the worst. The best was a Minollta Autocord, followed closely by a Rolleiflex with a Tessar lens and then a Ricoh Diacord. A friend's Rolleiflex E with 3.5 Planar lens was in the mix although its lens is considered much superior to the Tessar. In his case, we discovered that his camera's images were crap and its taking lens was misaligned with the viewing/focusing lens - a cheap repair. Most of Yashica TLRs from the late '50s on mounted the same 4-element Yashinon. Having owned two Yashica TLRs over the years, the only good comment I'll give 'em is that the 6x6cm negative is so large, getting minimal enlargement, that its images look great scanned on a computer and fine in prints up to 11x14 inches in size. If you just have to have one, the best buy is the Yashica 12; functionally the same as a 124G without the useless meter and more heavily (durably) built.
I just got mine today, advancing the film and then turning it back was kind of confusing at first. But got a hang of it now and i cant wait to get shooting
acquistata nel 1975...ancora intatta! Foto BELLISSIME!!!!
awesome, made the camera feel very simple and quickly caught on thanks man
Excellent video. Perfect walk through for me- I’m awaiting my Mat G in the mail right now. Thanks for the the detailed step by step video
Awesome video, thanks for that!
Just got mine and trying to figure out all the functions!
Good to point out the risk of damage when attempting to use self-timer with flash M. Of course, there is no reason why anyone would use M (unless they were obsessively antiquarian rather than interested in the high-quality photography of which this camera is capable, and they had acquired expendable magnesium-flash bulbs which were obsolete when this camera was built). Always X for electronic flash.
Just bought it o Ebay, now awaiting delivery! :D
I'm sure you'll have fun with it! Remember to keep the flash settings on red!
i always wanted one from the 80s
Such a great little camera.
One question. Do you know whether or not the shutter is tied into the battery? If the battery is dead, will the shutter still work? I have an old 669 Polaroid camera that the shutter will not work if the battery is dead but other cameras that the battery only affects the light meter. Great video thanks!
Nice. Have you ever used really early cameras?
Thanks for the guide. Could you describe what to do after all 12 shots are taken. Do we have to wind before opening the camera to retrieve the roll ?
Yes, wind for 10 seconds or so, until there's no tension.
Thanks :)
Clockwise ?
what batteries did you use for this? I thought mercury batteries aren't made anymore?
Hey bro, just wondering if there is no film, if you wind the crank, it would keep winding yes? If you take a shot, would the counter jump to 1 or remain at S? Thanks
Very informative! Thanks! I was wondering if this camera can only go at the full stops for aperture and shutter speed for example only 1/125, 1/250 etc and f5.6, f8 etc or if I turn the dial to that it is one third between 1/125 to the 1/250 mark, the shutter fires at 1/160? I just got this camera a few days ago and would love to know
The shutter operates on full stops only but I believe the Aperture is continuous - a way to test this would be to put the camera on a tripod and point it at a constant light source. If you turn the Aperture dial slowly and the needle moves smoothly then it allows incremental adjustment.
Enjoy your new camera it’s a real gem!
Jonathan Notley thanks! Unfortunately, I don't think I will be able to get a hold of a battery so I wouldn't be able to test that using the light meter... It won't be a big deal if I can't as I use colour negative only so I can slightly overexpose if needed
Maybe have a quick peek during a bulb exposure
Jonathan Notley thanks, another question... Can I use a cable shutter release with it? I have one that I use for my Nikon F4 which screws on the Yashica but worried that if it isn't compatible, it could damage it?
Yes they’re compatible and no it won’t damage it
Thank you, very concise.
Thank you for your very thorough and informative video. I mailed my Yashica Mat 124 off for repairs and when I get it back I will use your video to get started. Question, is that a Rolex on your wrist? I am an Explorer and Sub fan. 👍 Mark
Great video, that help me a lot
Thanks for this 🙏🏾
excellent, clear and precise video. many thanks A*****
Just got one and put my first film in. Can you help me out? There is something strange going on with mine. I wound the film to the appropriate start position. In the exposure mode reminder window, directly above the crank it says 24, but I have the pressure plate in the 12 exposure position. Also, the exposure counter window shows what looks more like a "V" than a 1. Do you have any idea what is going on with this?
Hmmmm. I’m wondering if perhaps you chose the 220 plate setting or wound on too far but unfortunately you’d have to open the camera to find out. Does the shutter fire? Try firing a frame and see if that gives you a number.
Thank you so much for your video !
My Sole For Yashica Mat 124G
Thank you so much
Is that an Explorer or OP? Follow up question: do you still have it?
I sold the Yashica 124g a while back and now use a 503CX
how do you frame acurately then if the taking lens is lower ? How do you get accurate framing for headshots so you get perfect headroom etc?
There's only a couple of inches difference! You get used to make an allowance for parallax. Cecil Beaton used Rolleis for 40 years. David Bailey used Rolleis for some of his famous 1960s pictures. Bill Brandt used a Rollei. Irving Penn used Rolleis for most of his famous portraits. Vivian Maier took her wonderful street photos on a Rollei. I could go on. But it was a practical camera for world-famous photographers.
will this camera work without a battery?
The shutter will fire but you won't have access to the lightmeter
Thanks it’s useful
very useful thank you
Hey what battery do you use for the light meter?
rave4ramen they don't make batteries for the light anymore
You can find it at ebay
You can use a commonly available alkaline cell and adjust the ASA meter speed setting to compensate of the approximately one stop high reading or the meter based on excess battery voltage, or you can use a Wein zinc-air cell, which generates a voltage close to the mercury cell the camera was designed to use. Or, you can use a decent hand-held meter, which is probably the most convenient in the end. You couild have gthe meter circuit modified to take a modern battery, but it's probably not worth the cost.
great video man thanks. but damn titkok ruined my brain. I can't even watch a 10 minutes video of anything now 🤣
Cant find a single video telling you how to wind it back in
With 120 you don’t wind it in you wind it onto the take up spool. Just keep turning the handle
Hi, how do you rewind the film?
Once the film is all finished just keep winding the handle a few more times and it gets wrapped back up onto the other spool
tqvm. just realised it is not 35mm with cartridge! cheers.
wats it worth i hav the Mat 124
What happens if I accidentally wound the film way past the arrow mark? I didn't know how to unwind (if that's even possible) so just tried to guess a good place to leave it and closed it. Then I wound the lever a bit too far to "2" without clicking the shutter button. If I end up at an arbitrary spot on the film, will that mess up the images on the cutting room table, or does it not matter similar to 35mm?
Might affect your spacing unfortunately. Depends how far past the arrow you went
hi, just to ask..is it effect to our photo if I set to X instead of M?
Leave it on Red, if you use the self timer on yellow you'll screw up the shutter.
@@JonathanNotley it does not work,actually you cannot move the self timer lever, it remains stuck... Nothing to do with the shutter...
Just starting to get acquainted with this camera. So if I don't have plans on using the self timer or a flash then I should keep the lever set to N instead of X and not have to worry about it? The X is only for when using the flash and timer?
Derek Toye The X is where it should stay all of the time. The M setting is for a special kind of flash setup that is obsolete. You can use your self timer in the X position, if you try to use the timer in the M position the shutter can become jammed. From what I've heard the remedy for this if it happens is to switch it back to X position and try to work the shutter. I've heard that you may need to play around with the settings and keep working the shutter until the shutter unjambs. If you can't fix it this way then a professional probably needs to do it for you but it can be done.
how old is the camera .
~25 years or so
David Dobrik?
what? This needs battery? 😂😪
Bula Bulou Yeah man, it has a built in light meter!
Jonathan Notley Thanks for the video! I recieved this from my friend a few months back, finally decided to give it a try at 1AM in California. Literally learned along through this video, I will definitely look at battery stuff after i get rested. 😂😀 Thanks again!
What do you do at the end of the roll of film?
Wind it up till you feel the resistance stop, open the back, tape your film off and reload it!