Thanks Jason, this made me to understand the numbers from the book I bought (Ted Moores). Your instructions got me to understand it, and to converse to millimeters too! I use a 3-D program at work and used the lofting to create the stations. Thanx!
This was explained very well and easy to follow I had no problems at all drawing out the stations for my ranger prospector. could you do a video on how to draw out the stems I can not get these measurements correct they continually come out with a zig zag in them
Heló from Valencia, Spain. I don't speak week inglesh and don't understand 85% that's what you sey in the video. But I understand 95% what you do in the video because I'm a carpenter to. And your videos is veri easy to understand. I love my job, nature and fishing. And I wont make my Canoa. But a don search (no encuentro) plans. Can you sey to Mi wear I can search or buy Tha plans? Thank you. I like veri much your channel.
From years of eyeballing upside down canoe hull designs(marathon racing 120mile AuSalble Riv.) i imediately got to sutle fine detail to achieve speed or handling. Draw out lenght wise water lines with long cedar strip and all my workout weights(to hold the curvatures of sharpness or fullness of those lines) full scale on 24" wide frezzer wrap(one edge of wrap is the lenghtwise center line of the hull) spread out on my basement floor. To establish where all these LINEAR LENGHT canoe hull lines go i had to free hand draw the shape of the actual widest center form. Lines going across that center form from close together lines rite at the very bottom of the hull all the way to the gunnel line. Lines were very thight flatspot line, then a quarter inch line, 1/2" line, 1", 1&1/2", then 2", then 2&1/2", Ten a 3" crossectional waterline, at this point(further up from the bottom toward the sides going to the gunnels only even#'s 4", 5", 6", ectera were necessary as critical curvatures of the hull are at smaller hieghts once the parts that hit the water were established). On my frezzer wrap i just used a framing square 90 degrees from the edge drawn 8" appart to represent each form from bow to stern. At this point you have your canoe. Got a big2ft. square paper to measure from the center line(EDGE OF FREZZER WRAP) to each measured point where those long canoe hull lines crosses a form line. These organized measurements listed form by form will fill every bit of space on your canoe plan paper. Each form is drafted out using these measurements with "T"-sqare to your plywood for forms. It really helps to have an "Inca 18" Stainless steel Rule to quickly layout each form. You cant miss this tool in WoodCrafter stores because there ar thousands of holes at 64ths,32nds.1/16ths, in it for a sharpened #4 draftsmans lead pen to scribe lines uniformly accross your plywood for each form. It is a must have tool for layout. I have always laid out the "T" shaped strongback of 2by 4 nailed to a 2 by 6 as my strongback internal through each form. Once each form is on the "T"-Back i use a custom made red Oak 3/8" x 6" wide semi-flexable sanding board 11ft. long with large squezz clamps that hold rolled grits of 120 grit (buy rolls from Grizzly Woodworking) to uniformally blend each form to each other.
Jason - After watching your video here a couple of times, I'm thinking that I may try lofting the canoe myself as apposed to purchasing the plans like I originally mentioned. I have the second edition of Canoe Craft, and was wondering if you would be kind enough to explain something from the table of offsets. If you are familiar with this book it is on page 47 and is the Bob's Special. Anyway, my question is this: Looking at the 2 tables, there seems to be a lot of values that just aren't listed. Is this because the blank space in that particular column is the same as the listed value above it? Thanks in advance. Jim
Jason - never mind my question to you earlier. I actually found a guy doing a demonstration from the same book, who answers my question. It makes it easier when you can follow along with the same numbers he's using. Thanks again.
Jim here is another way to lay out and build your own design: Decide what you want squarer stems(like for a widerness distance"tripper"), or a curved stem mom&pa boat. Then how do want handling when paddling(or your expierence) as it pertains to the widest center form. Shallow arch for stability, "pea bottom" only for very accomphished(or pro racers). Make a small scetch on a piece of paper as a guide for your start full scale. Assuming both sides are mirrors of each other just draw free hand or with flexable curve one half cross section of the widest center form. I would go with 36" gunnel and 28/29"- - 3" water line as a good trade off performance/ stability. Put that 4x8 plywood on saw horses(this is your drafting board Jim) tape your template even with plywood edge. Draw(use inca stainless "T"square{the one with all the graduated holes 1/64's}). Draw scribe with sharp #4H drafting leads in adjustable pen 1" apart lines accross your paper(these are your water lines) toward what would be waterlines closer to bottom of the hull. From the 4'' waterline star scribing lines 1/2" apart to the bottom of your hull( closer waterlines in rounder bottom of hull are needed to be consistantly accurate in curved part of hull). Some people even me will lay out a flat spot line even though it will be narrow when long linear hull lines are layed out. Thats your center form!! Oganize and record on a big sheet of paper ALL MEASUREMENTS from crossing points of curved 1/2 hull center form cross section( each place your hull drawing center form crosses a waterline record that measurement). Now roll out and tape down that roll of template paper to your floor. One edge will be your LINEAR CENTERLINE LENGHTWISE FOR YOUR CANOE. Tape measure down to where you will use those copied center form measurements. Use a framing square to represent each form 90 degrees from edge of freezer wrap or temp paper. I lay out each form 8" apart(wisdom) more support for that 8 to 9$ per b/ft. cedar. Grab a long cedar strip and get some wieghts, then start shaping your strip as a long flexable curve for all the waterlines of your boat. Lines must be gradgual in relation to each other. although they maybe expensive i use Pigma MICRON colored # 03 size colored pens as all those waterlines will be hard to distingwich from one another the closer you get to bow and stern. What your doing is recording every place those cedar striped hull lines cross each form line. I have these rolls and copied point plotting sheets all over the shop( i'd just send you one but they are all racing hulls not for anyone but a marathon canoe racer). SO GET OUT THAT 4X8 plywood as your point plotting all that copied info onto scribed #4H drafting each waterline across that whole sheet of plywood. Your drafting each form onto plywood then measuring from center of each form mirroring dimensions. I lay out a "T" shaped strong back rite into each form coresponding to 1&1/2" wide by 5&1/2" (USING 2 2X6's) in a "T". We could talk over phone if your eyes didn't glaise over. There is a guy out of South Carolina "WoodSong" canoes that has sold his art work canoes at 45,000$ to 175,000$. INCREDABLE CRAFTSMANSHIP IF YOU CAN FIND IT.
The canoe is beautiful and elegant, but those bubbles on the surface on the river means that the river is polluted and not very healthy. People should be more careful with what they are throwing in that river.
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Thanks Jason, this made me to understand the numbers from the book I bought (Ted Moores). Your instructions got me to understand it, and to converse to millimeters too! I use a 3-D program at work and used the lofting to create the stations. Thanx!
Muito obrigado Jason! Realmente aprendi a desenhar a canoa com seu vídeo.
Gostaria de ter mais informações de como fazer canoas!
Obrigado!
This was explained very well and easy to follow I had no problems at all drawing out the stations for my ranger prospector.
could you do a video on how to draw out the stems I can not get these measurements correct they continually come out with a zig zag in them
Heló from Valencia, Spain.
I don't speak week inglesh and don't understand 85% that's what you sey in the video. But I understand 95% what you do in the video because I'm a carpenter to. And your videos is veri easy to understand.
I love my job, nature and fishing. And I wont make my Canoa. But a don search (no encuentro) plans.
Can you sey to Mi wear I can search or buy Tha plans?
Thank you.
I like veri much your channel.
From years of eyeballing upside down canoe hull designs(marathon racing 120mile AuSalble Riv.) i imediately got to sutle fine detail to achieve speed or handling. Draw out lenght wise water lines with long cedar strip and all my workout weights(to hold the curvatures of sharpness or fullness of those lines) full scale on 24" wide frezzer wrap(one edge of wrap is the lenghtwise center line of the hull) spread out on my basement floor. To establish where all these LINEAR LENGHT canoe hull lines go i had to free hand draw the shape of the actual widest center form. Lines going across that center form from close together lines rite at the very bottom of the hull all the way to the gunnel line. Lines were very thight flatspot line, then a quarter inch line, 1/2" line, 1", 1&1/2", then 2", then 2&1/2", Ten a 3" crossectional waterline, at this point(further up from the bottom toward the sides going to the gunnels only even#'s 4", 5", 6", ectera were necessary as critical curvatures of the hull are at smaller hieghts once the parts that hit the water were established). On my frezzer wrap i just used a framing square 90 degrees from the edge drawn 8" appart to represent each form from bow to stern. At this point you have your canoe. Got a big2ft. square paper to measure from the center line(EDGE OF FREZZER WRAP) to each measured point where those long canoe hull lines crosses a form line. These organized measurements listed form by form will fill every bit of space on your canoe plan paper. Each form is drafted out using these measurements with "T"-sqare to your plywood for forms. It really helps to have an "Inca 18" Stainless steel Rule to quickly layout each form. You cant miss this tool in WoodCrafter stores because there ar thousands of holes at 64ths,32nds.1/16ths, in it for a sharpened #4 draftsmans lead pen to scribe lines uniformly accross your plywood for each form. It is a must have tool for layout. I have always laid out the "T" shaped strongback of 2by 4 nailed to a 2 by 6 as my strongback internal through each form. Once each form is on the "T"-Back i use a custom made red Oak 3/8" x 6" wide semi-flexable sanding board 11ft. long with large squezz clamps that hold rolled grits of 120 grit (buy rolls from Grizzly Woodworking) to uniformally blend each form to each other.
Great video! Would this process be the same with any type of small boat?
what about the mesurments of the stem molds??
can you explain that please.
i can not understant it from the book that i bot.
thank you.
lol the cinematic opening ^_^
nice👍👆👍👆👏😍
Jason - After watching your video here a couple of times, I'm thinking that I may try lofting the canoe myself as apposed to purchasing the plans like I originally mentioned. I have the second edition of Canoe Craft, and was wondering if you would be kind enough to explain something from the table of offsets. If you are familiar with this book it is on page 47 and is the Bob's Special. Anyway, my question is this: Looking at the 2 tables, there seems to be a lot of values that just aren't listed. Is this because the blank space in that particular column is the same as the listed value above it? Thanks in advance. Jim
Jason - never mind my question to you earlier. I actually found a guy doing a demonstration from the same book, who answers my question. It makes it easier when you can follow along with the same numbers he's using. Thanks again.
Jim here is another way to lay out and build your own design: Decide what you want squarer stems(like for a widerness distance"tripper"), or a curved stem mom&pa boat. Then how do want handling when paddling(or your expierence) as it pertains to the widest center form. Shallow arch for stability, "pea bottom" only for very accomphished(or pro racers). Make a small scetch on a piece of paper as a guide for your start full scale. Assuming both sides are mirrors of each other just draw free hand or with flexable curve one half cross section of the widest center form. I would go with 36" gunnel and 28/29"- - 3" water line as a good trade off performance/ stability. Put that 4x8 plywood on saw horses(this is your drafting board Jim) tape your template even with plywood edge. Draw(use inca stainless "T"square{the one with all the graduated holes 1/64's}). Draw scribe with sharp #4H drafting leads in adjustable pen 1" apart lines accross your paper(these are your water lines) toward what would be waterlines closer to bottom of the hull. From the 4'' waterline star scribing lines 1/2" apart to the bottom of your hull( closer waterlines in rounder bottom of hull are needed to be consistantly accurate in curved part of hull). Some people even me will lay out a flat spot line even though it will be narrow when long linear hull lines are layed out. Thats your center form!! Oganize and record on a big sheet of paper ALL MEASUREMENTS from crossing points of curved 1/2 hull center form cross section( each place your hull drawing center form crosses a waterline record that measurement). Now roll out and tape down that roll of template paper to your floor. One edge will be your LINEAR CENTERLINE LENGHTWISE FOR YOUR CANOE. Tape measure down to where you will use those copied center form measurements. Use a framing square to represent each form 90 degrees from edge of freezer wrap or temp paper. I lay out each form 8" apart(wisdom) more support for that 8 to 9$ per b/ft. cedar. Grab a long cedar strip and get some wieghts, then start shaping your strip as a long flexable curve for all the waterlines of your boat. Lines must be gradgual in relation to each other. although they maybe expensive i use Pigma MICRON colored # 03 size colored pens as all those waterlines will be hard to distingwich from one another the closer you get to bow and stern. What your doing is recording every place those cedar striped hull lines cross each form line. I have these rolls and copied point plotting sheets all over the shop( i'd just send you one but they are all racing hulls not for anyone but a marathon canoe racer). SO GET OUT THAT 4X8 plywood as your point plotting all that copied info onto scribed #4H drafting each waterline across that whole sheet of plywood. Your drafting each form onto plywood then measuring from center of each form mirroring dimensions. I lay out a "T" shaped strong back rite into each form coresponding to 1&1/2" wide by 5&1/2" (USING 2 2X6's) in a "T". We could talk over phone if your eyes didn't glaise over. There is a guy out of South Carolina "WoodSong" canoes that has sold his art work canoes at 45,000$ to 175,000$. INCREDABLE CRAFTSMANSHIP IF YOU CAN FIND IT.
The canoe is beautiful and elegant, but those bubbles on the surface on the river means that the river is polluted and not very healthy. People should be more careful with what they are throwing in that river.
Why not just draw half on a card and trace it twice?
Just curious are you of Scottish descent??
Eke is Old Norse. We're British/Canadians now
这是一条好船
Could you loft me some plans please?