Old battery guy here - Do yourself a big favor, and get rid of the wing nuts on the batteries. Replace with hex nuts and lock washers. Much better connection, and they wont shake loose like the wing nuts eventually will.
Mike, consider just putting a short riser on the battery box. Either make it a little taller or add to the Base and let the old cover fit on top. I vote, just bite the bullet and make a new control the way you like. Just make sure you've got some room to add stuff later.
Mike, When paralleling batteries always pull the positive and negative from the opposite battery. Then both batteries will be drawn from not the first as you have done there. It's a small thing however it will kill the first battery during starts and cause uneven charging.
Mike, I know this was done months ago but, you may want to add a ground strap from the alternator to the frame. This will give your alternator better performance and a reliable solid connection to the ground. The alternator looks like it has a grounding bolt to attach the ground strap and it is much better than relying on the hinge bolt (over time may get loose or dirty) alone. As a retired electrical engineer, I like to stay well grounded. ⚡🤓⚡ Spoke too soon... The tension bracket is probably, "good enough for who its for." I love watching you tinker.
You Tube used to be setup to explain how to do things such as plumbing, electrical, mechanical, wood working, etc. It has become a place to showcase the personality of the person(s) "doing many things". Dirt Perfect is a prime example. Aaron & Mike bring in other people and do many different jobs with several machines and it all produces a lot of humor. Dirt Perfect is the perfect channel. Sooooo much more entertaining than any tv show.
Retired telephone man here, If you have enough zip tie length I always found going around your wires twice and then into zip tie holds much better. Just an idea.
Always keep sections of copper pipe on hand in various sizes for crimp/solder connections. You can make ends and splice connections for odd or emergency sizes and they will look the same because the is literally how the factory ones are made
Looks like John Deere is on the outer your approach to keep costs down for grain farmers. Allot of them will be keeping head above the crop by doing maintainable in own workshop. I have a saying bank costs on new are the same as maintenance on existing.
between captain Kleeman and Dirt Perfect i had no idea they made a Dewalt heat gun untill i started watching. I bought 1 last year and its a very small thing to make a job easier especially working on a trailer in the middle of the property or not fighting with a 2 foot cord that you need to pull an extension cord only to use it for 30 seconds. Thank you both
Some people really get confused with the 12V vs 24V systems. The one that got me was the old 1960-1970 Osh Kosh rollover snowplows to clear our military flight lines. They have been refurbished and upgraded over the decades and were in operation well into the early 2000s when they were eventually phased out for the newer more modern snow removal equipment. Not all of our rollovers were updated to the most current refurbishment/upgrades and that is where I got into some trouble. The old electrical systems ran on 12 three cell 6V lead acid batteries (12V system). One of the upgrades on the rollovers changed the electrical system to 6 six cell 12V lead acid batteries (12V system). The next upgrade changed to 4 six cell 12V high-capacity industrial grade lead acid batteries, as well as converted to a 24V system. One of the rollovers I was working on was the oldest one we had. It had the 6V batteries. We had to replace the batteries, so I provided the part number and placed them on order. What I didn't know at the time was you had to specify whether they were 6V or 12V. Yep! They had 12V three cell batteries and they had the same exact part #. 🤷♂ Since I didn't specify what Volt was needed, they automatically issued the 12V. They didn't even bother to confirm with me what Volt it should've been, even though they are very familiar with those batteries! 😠 Fortunately, I didn't fry any of the wiring because the main fuse popped. I was young and I was still learning. But I should have looked at the decals on the batteries before accepting them. It said 12V at the end of the part number. 🤦♂ In the end, I learned a lesson and our parts personnel made sure they double check with the parts requester before processing the request. We replaced the main fuse, installed the correct 6V batteries, and the rollover was back to work clearing snow off the runway.
Where ever the power cable have a chance at rubbing. Put a piece of garden hose over it. You can put wiring harness tape or heat shrink over it to hold it in place. Great video, thank you.
Nice to see you have the high amperage wiring completed and the battery, starter motor and alternator side completed, next round the control wiring and fans. Mike, thank you for another good video!
If you sketch the control panel up, We will laser cut, form it up for you in stainless, including Riv-nuts and fasteners, for free. If you give me the labelling information, we can do that too. let me know.
Mike, I can vent with you today! Sometimes we just want to "Line'm Up!" Any electrician would be proud and give you 4.5 Stars! (Why not 5? If you did it, you didn't show it - putting dielectric paste on the connections. It really cuts down on the oxidation of the connection.) Great video! Love the build! Lee
🇮🇪☘️🇺🇸 Mike how I love the calm quiet peace of you creating & working on the engines - it shows your true love & absolute understanding of how they live & breathe Like my late ol’man , he’d talk to them conjole “ now lookie here missy play nice” grease on the den rug 😔. Nothing sexier than a man wrenching… blessings Mike
Hey Mike, that yellow work bench worked a lot better when you crimped the ends than the other work table! 😁 Thanks for the video. The wiring looks so much better.
Please remember Mike if one of the batteries is bad it will bring down the good battery, also if you get a hot glue stick and put it in the ends of your heat shrink tube it will help make it waterproof, hope this helps you in the future. Jim from Scotland
DP, the one thing I would worry about with the cable going to the starter is it being snagged by something in the field. Other than that I completely approve of your work so far.
You should put in a main inline fuse before the starter, John Deere puts one in 125A on all the small tractors and up to 250A on the bigger tractors, if you go to any JD dealer and tell them you need a main inline fuse block and whatever fuse you need, we go through a lot of them so we keep them in stock
Couldn't agree more!!! That crimper you have is a joke. Get a hydraulic hex crimper!! After crimping I would also solder them. The solder protects the copper from corroding from the battery acid fumes. By soldering them they'll never turn green. It's an extra step but well worth the time. Is the heat shrink tubing your using gel filled???
It's looking a lot better than before. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed to run. You are doing great work. It won't be long now. Thanks for the video. Take care and I'll see you later.
Just a suggestion for your viewers, if you coat the battery cable with RTV silicon under where you place the heat shrink and shrink before the silicon sets you can make that covering much more corrosion resistant. It helps prevent moisture and acid from getting into the battery cable. Another thing is to tint the end of the cable with solder and inside the cable connector. When you crimp them together you can then heat it up again to join the soldering. This is extra work to help prevent moisture causing corrosion in the cable. You do get the additional advantages of a little better connectivity and better amps transfer.
One of the mechanics at the company I drove for in the 90’s made cables by clamping the end in a vise and melting solder into the end the pushing the wire into the liquid solder. It did take longer but I don’t think they had a cable crimper around that shop.
Put a radiator holes or heater court holes around the hotline. Going under the engine to give it more protection for anything. It might rub against and you will have a safer route of your positive cable
I'm not sure if you addressed the ground to frame and to the engine? Maybe I missed it. I would have soldered those crimp connection too but that's just me. Great build. I'm glad you are completely rewiring and plumbing it.
Mike, I would suggest where your starter cable goes underneath the oil pan/sump you drop a 1 inch strip of steel down from a sump bolt each side say 5 inches and drill a hole at the bottom and zip tie the starter cable to it. to support it. My thoughts.
You done a great job . KISS method. I agree a heater hose over starter cable would be a piece of mind against having a short from any chance of rubbing
Well, if i've if I have another one, when you can probably take a one inch or two inch piece of metal and well all the way around the bottom of the box, when you set it up, there, it raises it up away from your connectors, use the same one, just put it door you.Can raise it up
My old car had a setup for the alternator like that where the collar tightens down to take up the space. When replacing the alternator the collar was too tight to get the new one in and needed to be reset. I was able to use a bolt a socket that fit over the collar and some washers to jack the collar out a bit. Just something to keep in mind for when you eventually replace the alternator, hopefully after many years of service.
Old battery guy here - Do yourself a big favor, and get rid of the wing nuts on the batteries. Replace with hex nuts and lock washers. Much better connection, and they wont shake loose like the wing nuts eventually will.
Mike, consider just putting a short riser on the battery box. Either make it a little taller or add to the Base and let the old cover fit on top.
I vote, just bite the bullet and make a new control the way you like. Just make sure you've got some room to add stuff later.
Isn't that the Red Dog hammer you're using to crimp those wires ? He'd be proud.
Mike, When paralleling batteries always pull the positive and negative from the opposite battery. Then both batteries will be drawn from not the first as you have done there. It's a small thing however it will kill the first battery during starts and cause uneven charging.
good thinking
Wooow,you are the frankinmachine DP,build and rebuild anything, looking mighty fine on the mighty tonka tile plow 😊
I was taught on negative chassis to put the Isolator in the positive lead.
Plasma table, 'Not Complaining', - you are a lot more tolerant than I ever would be.
Mike with all the shop videos. How much love will the shop get?
Thanks for a great video again.
Add a small box on top of the battery box for easy access to the posts for jump starts and clearance also .
Like watching how your mind works. Taking something old and adding to it. Turning it into a machine you know inside out when done.
Mike, I know this was done months ago but, you may want to add a ground strap from the alternator to the frame. This will give your alternator better performance and a reliable solid connection to the ground. The alternator looks like it has a grounding bolt to attach the ground strap and it is much better than relying on the hinge bolt (over time may get loose or dirty) alone. As a retired electrical engineer, I like to stay well grounded. ⚡🤓⚡
Spoke too soon... The tension bracket is probably, "good enough for who its for." I love watching you tinker.
You Tube used to be setup to explain how to do things such as plumbing, electrical, mechanical, wood working, etc. It has become a place to showcase the personality of the person(s) "doing many things". Dirt Perfect is a prime example. Aaron & Mike bring in other people and do many different jobs with several machines and it all produces a lot of humor.
Dirt Perfect is the perfect channel. Sooooo much more entertaining than any tv show.
Glad to see you use a heat gun and not a torch
Retired telephone man here, If you have enough zip tie length I always found going around your wires twice and then into zip tie holds much better. Just an idea.
Always keep sections of copper pipe on hand in various sizes for crimp/solder connections. You can make ends and splice connections for odd or emergency sizes and they will look the same because the is literally how the factory ones are made
Mike you are a dying breed.Youre work ethics and ingenuity are fantastic
Looks like John Deere is on the outer your approach to keep costs down for grain farmers. Allot of them will be keeping head above the crop by doing maintainable in own workshop. I have a saying bank costs on new are the same as maintenance on existing.
Always good to show your a good dad,and hubby especially if your going to be away on valentine's day.
@@robertwilson93 hope he has big gifts for Mrs DP , she'll allow him to spend big time on her !
Mike it's surely is coming along. Great job. Start fresh, build in reliability and you know what you have for repeated trouble free operation.
between captain Kleeman and Dirt Perfect i had no idea they made a Dewalt heat gun untill i started watching. I bought 1 last year and its a very small thing to make a job easier especially working on a trailer in the middle of the property or not fighting with a 2 foot cord that you need to pull an extension cord only to use it for 30 seconds. Thank you both
Interesting video. You my friend are one smart dude! Amazing watching you work on machines. Thanks for the ride.
you always drill things by hand when you have a really nice drill press. I always enjoy your videos.
Some people really get confused with the 12V vs 24V systems. The one that got me was the old 1960-1970 Osh Kosh rollover snowplows to clear our military flight lines. They have been refurbished and upgraded over the decades and were in operation well into the early 2000s when they were eventually phased out for the newer more modern snow removal equipment. Not all of our rollovers were updated to the most current refurbishment/upgrades and that is where I got into some trouble. The old electrical systems ran on 12 three cell 6V lead acid batteries (12V system). One of the upgrades on the rollovers changed the electrical system to 6 six cell 12V lead acid batteries (12V system). The next upgrade changed to 4 six cell 12V high-capacity industrial grade lead acid batteries, as well as converted to a 24V system.
One of the rollovers I was working on was the oldest one we had. It had the 6V batteries. We had to replace the batteries, so I provided the part number and placed them on order. What I didn't know at the time was you had to specify whether they were 6V or 12V. Yep! They had 12V three cell batteries and they had the same exact part #. 🤷♂ Since I didn't specify what Volt was needed, they automatically issued the 12V. They didn't even bother to confirm with me what Volt it should've been, even though they are very familiar with those batteries! 😠 Fortunately, I didn't fry any of the wiring because the main fuse popped. I was young and I was still learning. But I should have looked at the decals on the batteries before accepting them. It said 12V at the end of the part number. 🤦♂ In the end, I learned a lesson and our parts personnel made sure they double check with the parts requester before processing the request. We replaced the main fuse, installed the correct 6V batteries, and the rollover was back to work clearing snow off the runway.
Where ever the power cable have a chance at rubbing. Put a piece of garden hose over it. You can put wiring harness tape or heat shrink over it to hold it in place. Great video, thank you.
And that's how It's done, improvise, adapt and overcome. 👍
Lathe work, heat shrink, hammer crimping what a variety.
Just add what you need to the bottom of the existing battery box to get the height you need.
Mike you are a 'jack of all trades'. Can do us RUclipsrs a favour. When this project is finished, you must do a highlight video of this epic project.
Nice to see you have the high amperage wiring completed and the battery, starter motor and alternator side completed, next round the control wiring and fans. Mike, thank you for another good video!
If you sketch the control panel up, We will laser cut, form it up for you in stainless, including Riv-nuts and fasteners, for free. If you give me the labelling information, we can do that too. let me know.
That’s a very generous offer, I’m sure it would look great. Too bad the videos are 2-3 months behind, so he’s already built whatever he built.
@@motor2of7 You are probably, correct.
It would look great though. Maybe he didn’t something like that 😂
I'd probably take Jerry up on the offer anyhow. That stainless would look nice!
Nice of them to offer
Totally Ignorant when it comes to this rebuild, but it looks nice and tidy. Thank you for sharing.💖
Mike, I can vent with you today! Sometimes we just want to "Line'm Up!" Any electrician would be proud and give you 4.5 Stars! (Why not 5? If you did it, you didn't show it - putting dielectric paste on the connections. It really cuts down on the oxidation of the connection.) Great video! Love the build! Lee
Mike you’re getting closer,looking good! Thanks for sharing! Kevin
Good morning you guys! I enjoy watching you all fix up this old machine!
I just started watching Lets Dig also! Have a good day 😊
Good morning Mike and Aaron 😊🌞😊❤
Great video as always Mike! Can't wait to see this old girl lay some tile.
🇮🇪☘️🇺🇸 Mike how I love the calm quiet peace of you creating & working on the engines - it shows your true love & absolute understanding of how they live & breathe Like my late ol’man , he’d talk to them conjole “ now lookie here missy play nice” grease on the den rug 😔. Nothing sexier than a man wrenching… blessings Mike
Hey Mike, that yellow work bench worked a lot better when you crimped the ends than the other work table! 😁 Thanks for the video. The wiring looks so much better.
All the metal tools laid across the batteries could make for an exciting video. :)
Thanks again for sharing 😀 Dirt Perfect ❤
Great job Mike!
Nice neat job there "Sparky" 😃😃
so far so good
Very nice and clean. GPS all the way!
Supervising from my end of the internet, you have done an excellent job 👍🏻👌🏻
lol thanks
One step forward.
The field repairs for future DP are looking good 😁👍🏻
Great video love this project😎✌🏻
Thanks Great job .
To think more positively, you need to stay well grounded. 😅😂
Another great video. I enjoyed it so much. Can’t wait until the next one, to see what you are able to finish. As always stay safe.😊
1,080 👍's up DP thank you for sharing 🤗
Old piece of hydraulic hose is excellent for high temp and wearing. The best part is that it is free.
Jeff Martin auction
5000 Oren Brown rd
Kissimmee FL 2pm Feb. 9
For some reason Clinton, RUclips is offering to translate your comment to English. 😂🤣
C&C IS LEARNING SPANISH 😊😊😊
Please remember Mike if one of the batteries is bad it will bring down the good battery, also if you get a hot glue stick and put it in the ends of your heat shrink tube it will help make it waterproof, hope this helps you in the future. Jim from Scotland
I noticed that two and was going to suggest it for the alternator wire connection.
DP, the one thing I would worry about with the cable going to the starter is it being snagged by something in the field. Other than that I completely approve of your work so far.
I wondered if it had or will have a belly pan
You should put in a main inline fuse before the starter, John Deere puts one in 125A on all the small tractors and up to 250A on the bigger tractors, if you go to any JD dealer and tell them you need a main inline fuse block and whatever fuse you need, we go through a lot of them so we keep them in stock
The original builder would be proud
You are doing a great job on this tractor
Retrofitting stuff is the worst job. You made the right choice to start over. Great video.
Mike, man you got to get a portable hand hydraulic crimper for them big cables, Made a world of difference for me! you'll love it!
Couldn't agree more!!! That crimper you have is a joke. Get a hydraulic hex crimper!! After crimping I would also solder them. The solder protects the copper from corroding from the battery acid fumes. By soldering them they'll never turn green. It's an extra step but well worth the time. Is the heat shrink tubing your using gel filled???
Enjoyed the video DP.
Thanks
Learning a lot on this rebuild! Coffee on! Here we go! Cheers!;-)!
Nicely done, Mike. Fascinating.
Really enjoyed this one. It is very interesting seeing you guys rebuild this machine.
Missed you, Aaron.
2:40 Finally a positive post
Grr😞 we will miss you by one day in Florida, we arrive on Monday!!
Enjoy the weather it will be beautiful.
It's coming along nicely Mike your doing such a good job we may need to see a paint job on this old girl once you guys are done.
That video seemed to go so smoothly, is it cuz Aaron wasn't there? 😂😂😂
Great job 🎉 It’s a “CLASSIC, ONE OF A KIND, PROTOTYPE…” You’re doing the “father” of this project PROUD!
🙋♀️💖🇨🇱
Good job making this more reliable and efficient
All them fans you might want to use a 22si alternator at 180amps
Making progress. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
See you sunday
Good morning dirt perfect and man behind the scenes 👍🦾👨🏼🏭👷🏻
It's looking a lot better than before. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed to run. You are doing great work. It won't be long now. Thanks for the video. Take care and I'll see you later.
Great video thanks Chris we're is Aaron ❤❤❤
Just a suggestion for your viewers, if you coat the battery cable with RTV silicon under where you place the heat shrink and shrink before the silicon sets you can make that covering much more corrosion resistant. It helps prevent moisture and acid from getting into the battery cable. Another thing is to tint the end of the cable with solder and inside the cable connector. When you crimp them together you can then heat it up again to join the soldering. This is extra work to help prevent moisture causing corrosion in the cable. You do get the additional advantages of a little better connectivity and better amps transfer.
One of the mechanics at the company I drove for in the 90’s made cables by clamping the end in a vise and melting solder into the end the pushing the wire into the liquid solder.
It did take longer but I don’t think they had a cable crimper around that shop.
First stage of electrical is done. Looks very simple & direct. Few things to work through & accomplished.
At 20:04 now tack weld the spacer to the other spacer once tight. Then it wont drop out when changing the Alternator.
Excellence at it’s best 👍👍👍👍
Very nice job making all the battery connections
Mike if you have concerns about rubbing you can take either old water hose or fire hose and tie wrap the hoses or cables easy fix love the video.
Awwww I will be in Vegas on the 9th and 10th. Hope you enjoy yourselves and I will watch it after I get home on Tuesday.
Good morning
Great job Mike great video thanks
Put a radiator holes or heater court holes around the hotline. Going under the engine to give it more protection for anything. It might rub against and you will have a safer route of your positive cable
holes = *hose*
court = *core*
I'm not sure if you addressed the ground to frame and to the engine? Maybe I missed it. I would have soldered those crimp connection too but that's just me. Great build. I'm glad you are completely rewiring and plumbing it.
Good Morning Mr. Dirt, Awesome progress! Really enjoy watching this project come together! Safety first! Thumbs up! Jim
Thanks
My lawnmower had an ignition gremlin, pulled everything out and redid it into a simple switch. Wasn't pretty but it works and its all under the hood!
You are doing a outstanding job DP 😊 plus your other worker Aaron hello from Hamburg NY it's cold ❄️🥶 with snow ❄️ in February
Mike, I would suggest where your starter cable goes underneath the oil pan/sump you drop a 1 inch strip of steel down from a sump bolt each side say 5 inches and drill a hole at the bottom and zip tie the starter cable to it. to support it. My thoughts.
Just Mike fixing stuff great video only thing missing is the Ball Busting didn’t know I missed it till it was gone hopefully it isn’t gone long LOL
I hope you’re able to get a larger cab to go on so you have elbow room or have to build it out 😊
I won't be seeing you, Mike because I haven't lost anything in Kentucky or Florida I'll keep watching you on RUclips awesome channel.
Joey is the man.
You done a great job . KISS method. I agree a heater hose over starter cable would be a piece of mind against having a short from any chance of rubbing
"would be a *piece* of mind"? Which piece?
Wouldn't it be more likely to ----> *give PEACE* of mind?
Well, if i've if I have another one, when you can probably take a one inch or two inch piece of metal and well all the way around the bottom of the box, when you set it up, there, it raises it up away from your connectors, use the same one, just put it door you.Can raise it up
My old car had a setup for the alternator like that where the collar tightens down to take up the space. When replacing the alternator the collar was too tight to get the new one in and needed to be reset. I was able to use a bolt a socket that fit over the collar and some washers to jack the collar out a bit.
Just something to keep in mind for when you eventually replace the alternator, hopefully after many years of service.
Bau Bau...I had not idea you were in Indiana!!! Growing up always loved em commercials saying there's more than corn in Indiana!!❤