just experienced such worn steering inner tie-rod with a lot of play on my wife's megane cc, symptom was wobble when breaking or load change, your video is just brilliant, thanks a million sir. Over the years I have seen 3 renaults in which a disgarded worn-loose inner tie-rod ball-head actually came out of cup-type holder while driving and shmashed the wheel back into the body resulting in major damage, luckly nobody was injured.
The orange 'washer' is a bump stop apparently. Prevents metal to metal contact on full lock and needs to be put on same way it came off, or don't remove at all. Renault use a special tool, bit like a plunger to remove the inner joint.
Hoping to tackle my worn inner joint this weekend. This video has given me confidence to try although may need bigger stilsons as there isn't a lot of room. Tempted to take lower wishbone off and change that too as that would give more room and could do with changing, it was an advisory on last MOT.
Hywel Lewis Topman, yeah wishbone removed provide heaps more room, but also as I'm sure know, more work! Just so its clear front tracking (toe in-out style) is a must, but you definitely won't need 4 wheel fancy laser alignment. I spent £25 after I changed my 2 inner, well worth it and passed the NCT the next week. Feel free to ask for any other videos if you think I might be of help. Ger
One must remember that the rear and front tracks have different measurements and account for that when using the string to calculate the front toe. (Track, Front 1,518 mm Track, Rear 1,514 mm) 🙂 BTW the rear tracking is always set to tow in just enough to keep the back end straight especially under heavy braking, in fact, the suspension geometry should increase such tow-in as the rear end of the car tends to lift away from the road surface.
great video! thanks for sharing! Would like to ask a few questions if possible. I'm considering to buy a megane, a 1.5 liter diesel. Many people tell me that renaults are not reliable cars, and that the parts costs a tons of money. Is that true? What parts are the weakest? What should I look for when checking a used one? thanks.
+cricerom pleased you liked it. The megan 2 is more unreliable, than the previous megan. Weak points: Electrics, alternator pulley, electric windows control module, airbag wiring, Plus point: they are a mass produced car so parts are/should be cheap(they are in Ire & Eng) , the 1.5 dci returns about 60mpg!!!! which even by modern standards is pretty good. I guess if you are willing and able to carry out repair work yourself, it can be a sensible car to own.
thnks for the reply. Meane 2 and opel astra from the same year, these two cars are on my list right now. Sill nt convinced wic one to buy. I had a bmw e46 and tobe honest, was a big dissapointement for me. I also like golfs, but they are overpriced.
I have no preference when it comes to cars, I just repair them and to be fair I find those "unreliability" stories originating from mechanics, not owners. Why? Because French cars are often design around safety and look, not ease of work. In simple words French cars are different and often difficult to work with which make mechanics complain. Items Gerard pointed out are often related to water ingress, not actual design. It's the same with VW comfort module installed in the foot well, where water collects if drains under the windscreen are clogged. You don't see people complaining about it. Or fact that majority of screws used by VW are special ones requiring specific tools. My list of issues with Megane II is: - thin external panels very prone to dents. - very difficult access to front lights - replacement of light bulbs is not possible on the side of the road and I prefer to take the front bumper off to replace it. - despite extra seals everywhere car is loud, especially from wind noise and engine. - cards (key) tend to get damaged. Those are rather expensive to replace. - window modules as described above. -issues with Common Rail system, which if not dealt by a competent person can cost a small fortune. Those are less frequent than problems with very similar system in Fords. - cam bearings wear out, but only on cars with extended service history. Check that before purchase - take if oil was replaced every year, not 18k miles. Apart from that all materials are far superior than most competitors in those years. Even basic models are well equipped with all toys (4 electric windows, electronic child lock, automatic wipers, lights, trip computer etc are not uncommon). For it's size it's very spacious with loads of storage space. Its also very economical. Parts are cheap and available from various sources (new and second hand) If you are looking for a cheap runaround the 1.5 dci is great. 5 speed gearbox is good for town and cheap as only fitted with solid flywheel. 6 speed is more economical, but has more expensive dual mass flywheel. 1.9 is good but not as efficient as 1.5dc.
thanks! My father in law purchased a 1.5 liter diesel Megane recently. I was there when he baught it. I was surprised of how good the car handles. Problems so far: stop engine - comes on sometimes due to one faulty injector. Bearings had to be replaced. Its economical indeed. The injector will be repaired, hope it wont cost a fortune.
DELPHI injectors used in Megane can fail, probably more often than BOSCH or DENSO, but on the other hand are cheap to repair or replace. There are lots of manuals on how to replace overflow valve in this injector which would solves faulty injector issue. This part cost £60 new from Delphi and to be fair most "reconditioned" units have just this part replaced. This engine has single stage diesel pump which does not fail as often as dual stage so does not have to be replaced. Rear bearings can be a pain as those come with discs, but for £120 you can get a genuine discs and pads, so this won't cost a fortune. Front bearing are rather strong and I din't have any complaints about them. Main thing to remember is to change oil and filters every year (buy ELF or equivalent) and prevent water ingress by checking scuttle drains frequently. Otherwise it's a sound car.
Merci pour la vedeo je demande votre permission de faire la traduction de la vedeo et de dire que la vedeo appartient a Monsieur Gerard white,si vous voulez bien sur
essidk information pardonnez mon français, je suis plus qu'heureux pour vous de le faire, merci de demander. J'espère que cela fonctionne bien pour vous. Cordialement, Gérard
![How to change front suspension arm / front control arm on RENAULT MEGANE 2 (LM) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh_lw67OXHY/mqdefault.jpg)
just experienced such worn steering inner tie-rod with a lot of play on my wife's megane cc, symptom was wobble when breaking or load change, your video is just brilliant, thanks a million sir.
Over the years I have seen 3 renaults in which a disgarded worn-loose inner tie-rod ball-head actually came out of cup-type holder while driving and shmashed the wheel back into the body resulting in major damage, luckly nobody was injured.
Top vid mate helped me out thanks 👍🏼and the Orange plastic bit is the steering rack bush and goes between the rack and the rod to stop any movement
The orange 'washer' is a bump stop apparently. Prevents metal to metal contact on full lock and needs to be put on same way it came off, or don't remove at all. Renault use a special tool, bit like a plunger to remove the inner joint.
Hywel Lewis thanks for sharing, I'm pleased I put back.
Hoping to tackle my worn inner joint this weekend. This video has given me confidence to try although may need bigger stilsons as there isn't a lot of room. Tempted to take lower wishbone off and change that too as that would give more room and could do with changing, it was an advisory on last MOT.
Hywel Lewis Topman, yeah wishbone removed provide heaps more room, but also as I'm sure know, more work! Just so its clear front tracking (toe in-out style) is a must, but you definitely won't need 4 wheel fancy laser alignment. I spent £25 after I changed my 2 inner, well worth it and passed the NCT the next week. Feel free to ask for any other videos if you think I might be of help. Ger
One must remember that the rear and front tracks have different measurements and account for that when using the string to calculate the front toe. (Track, Front
1,518 mm Track, Rear 1,514 mm) 🙂 BTW the rear tracking is always set to tow in just enough to keep the back end straight especially under heavy braking, in fact, the suspension geometry should increase such tow-in as the rear end of the car tends to lift away from the road surface.
Your a legend mate :), Top video
great video! thanks for sharing! Would like to ask a few questions if possible. I'm considering to buy a megane, a 1.5 liter diesel. Many people tell me that renaults are not reliable cars, and that the parts costs a tons of money. Is that true? What parts are the weakest? What should I look for when checking a used one? thanks.
+cricerom pleased you liked it. The megan 2 is more unreliable, than the previous megan. Weak points: Electrics, alternator pulley, electric windows control module, airbag wiring, Plus point: they are a mass produced car so parts are/should be cheap(they are in Ire & Eng) , the 1.5 dci returns about 60mpg!!!! which even by modern standards is pretty good. I guess if you are willing and able to carry out repair work yourself, it can be a sensible car to own.
thnks for the reply. Meane 2 and opel astra from the same year, these two cars are on my list right now. Sill nt convinced wic one to buy. I had a bmw e46 and tobe honest, was a big dissapointement for me. I also like golfs, but they are overpriced.
I have no preference when it comes to cars, I just repair them and to be fair I find those "unreliability" stories originating from mechanics, not owners. Why? Because French cars are often design around safety and look, not ease of work. In simple words French cars are different and often difficult to work with which make mechanics complain.
Items Gerard pointed out are often related to water ingress, not actual design. It's the same with VW comfort module installed in the foot well, where water collects if drains under the windscreen are clogged. You don't see people complaining about it. Or fact that majority of screws used by VW are special ones requiring specific tools.
My list of issues with Megane II is:
- thin external panels very prone to dents.
- very difficult access to front lights - replacement of light bulbs is not possible on the side of the road and I prefer to take the front bumper off to replace it.
- despite extra seals everywhere car is loud, especially from wind noise and engine.
- cards (key) tend to get damaged. Those are rather expensive to replace.
- window modules as described above.
-issues with Common Rail system, which if not dealt by a competent person can cost a small fortune. Those are less frequent than problems with very similar system in Fords.
- cam bearings wear out, but only on cars with extended service history. Check that before purchase - take if oil was replaced every year, not 18k miles.
Apart from that all materials are far superior than most competitors in those years. Even basic models are well equipped with all toys (4 electric windows, electronic child lock, automatic wipers, lights, trip computer etc are not uncommon). For it's size it's very spacious with loads of storage space. Its also very economical.
Parts are cheap and available from various sources (new and second hand)
If you are looking for a cheap runaround the 1.5 dci is great. 5 speed gearbox is good for town and cheap as only fitted with solid flywheel.
6 speed is more economical, but has more expensive dual mass flywheel.
1.9 is good but not as efficient as 1.5dc.
thanks! My father in law purchased a 1.5 liter diesel Megane recently. I was there when he baught it. I was surprised of how good the car handles. Problems so far: stop engine - comes on sometimes due to one faulty injector. Bearings had to be replaced. Its economical indeed. The injector will be repaired, hope it wont cost a fortune.
DELPHI injectors used in Megane can fail, probably more often than BOSCH or DENSO, but on the other hand are cheap to repair or replace. There are lots of manuals on how to replace overflow valve in this injector which would solves faulty injector issue. This part cost £60 new from Delphi and to be fair most "reconditioned" units have just this part replaced.
This engine has single stage diesel pump which does not fail as often as dual stage so does not have to be replaced.
Rear bearings can be a pain as those come with discs, but for £120 you can get a genuine discs and pads, so this won't cost a fortune.
Front bearing are rather strong and I din't have any complaints about them.
Main thing to remember is to change oil and filters every year (buy ELF or equivalent) and prevent water ingress by checking scuttle drains frequently.
Otherwise it's a sound car.
Near side look a bit of a pig to do, without the tie rod tool - just getting in to it with a pair of pliers is tight.
Helpful info thx!!
Good Vid. Thanks
I just cannot get the inner tie rod loose.
I know, they are a pain in the hole.
You can buy specialist tools to assist you, but sometimes it just brut force
Many thanks.
You are welcome!
Hi are both the tie rods the same size? When I look at ordering new ones they seem to be dual sided??
Tony Davis I'm pretty sure they are not handed
Good
Proper
Merci pour la vedeo je demande votre permission de faire la traduction de la vedeo et de dire que la vedeo appartient a Monsieur Gerard white,si vous voulez bien sur
essidk information pardonnez mon français, je suis plus qu'heureux pour vous de le faire, merci de demander. J'espère que cela fonctionne bien pour vous. Cordialement, Gérard