This is a great video! Thank you so much for posting your knowledge and tricks. I have done 2 belts on Volvo P1 2.5T's and I wondered the differences for my XC90, which is oil fouled and needs a camshaft seal. Excellent editing and keeping to the job at hand. God bless you!
I like hearing the mechanic complain and talk about stuff. Usually pretty funny and takes away a degree of misery. But you stayed with it and dropped some serious knowledge. @@hardlymovingpro
Nice job. Thanks for the helpful advice. I liked the belt clips the large catch pan and the 1/4 ratchet on the 10mm bolt (just snapped one). On the 2005 XC90 T6, the pump comes out from the top. Keep going!
The small black cover behind the crank pulley is there so that you don't have to remove the crank pulley to remove the cam belt ! Further more the radiator header tank & power steering reservoir can be easily unclipped & moved out of the way, without having to drain either system. Also the ECU box lid , and mid section are easy to remove, giving even more room for access.
Great video but I noticed a few things I would to different. I would cross tourqe the waterpump bolts 17Nm (12 lb.ft) instead of in a circle motion to ensure even pressure. It's also stated that the tensioner where you put the 6mm allenkey should be in the 11 o'clock position and then pulled anti-clockwise until you pass the +50°C mark (the one to the right) with the lever and then set it to correct temperature setting and meanwhile holding it tourqe it down to 20 Nm (15 lb.ft)..and then finally turn the crankshaft two full turns (720°) to see if the alignment is still correct for the cams and crank.. then finish it all up. Beside this things.. very good quality of video.. keep up the good work! A clear thumbs up from me :)
Not gonna lie that was very time consuming but not as hard as other vehicles. I was originally looking to replace my thermostat right next to the timing belt i was hoping to see a way to do that effectively lol instead i learned a way to tackle the water pump and belt...😄
Hello Sir, thanks for sharing your video, this is the best step by step in you tube so far how to change the timing belt.I wish you where here near me. I have a problem with my s60+r volvo. The gasket of the solenoid broke and some oil run at the belt. They told me to change the intire belt. So i bought a kit including the waterpump, but still I am afraid to change myself. I will let the pro to change for me but still it will cost me dearly.
Sorry to learn of your problem. You could, perhaps, shop around for a professional mechanic that does part time work on Craigslist. I found a decent and honest home HVAC guy that way. A $4,500 repair quote eventually cost me only $600. He only needed to replace the AC compressor and recharge the unit. Everyone else wanted to replace EVERYTHING!
Don't have the video but did the work. It requires removal of the intake manifold / plenum. It's a lot of work and the parts aren't cheap. Figure out what needs to be replaced after everything is opened up rather than buying these expensive kits.
Hi , I have 2004 xc90 2.9l 70k miles it had p0011 p0014 I drove it while those codes were on , then the car stall and now crank no start , I changed the crankshaft sensor and 2 camshafts sensors and 2 new vvt and still crank no start . Today I checked the marks on timing I find out the exhaust mark is off by 3 teeth . If I bring the timing to standard would it start or it's waste of time . How do I know I didnt bent the valves?
Sounds like you had a timing belt jump. Best to replace the belts, pulleys and tensioner and reset the timing positions. Don't believe the valves are bent but you can verify by doing a compression check. Good luck!
@hardlymovingpro no , I didn't correct the timing yet , I test the compression earlier today and it was zero , my question if correct the timming would I get compression back or it's late ? Some people telling me that the valavs are bent . But when I think about it I feel the valavs are just open because of timming is way off . I don't know if I correct the timming or jump to conclusion of remove the valaves head and rebuild it .
Freeze plugs are for the engine block. Prevents the block from cracking if the coolant freezes. The plugs blow out when there's internal engine ice formation.
Did you by chance change the thermostat at the same time? Some newer vehicles hav the thermostat as a entire housing instead of just the thermostat. Is that the case her or is it in a separate location and separate video? Also understanding that these projects can take sometimes twice as long or longer with having to stop, record, make notes etc....if you didn’t have to record and edit video approximately how much time was spent in the actual project itself not counting the obvious steps of jacking, removing tire and inner fender well panel and pouring fresh coolant in to service and getting the air pockets out? Is this system pretty good about filling in the air pockets themselves and just filling the coolant reservoir or is there a separate “Burping” procedure? Good video, thanks for tips.
No ... I didn't replace the thermostat. As long as the coolant is clean and there's no erratic changes in temperature, don't see the need to replace it. When they do fail, it fails on the "stays open" side which will over cool and not harm the engine.
This is approximately a 3 hour job. One way to reduce air pockets after replacing the water pump is to disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and pour in coolant (which will go directly into the engine block); otherwise, I just keep pouring coolant into the reservoir and keep a eye on the coolant level as the car warms up. After reaching peak temp., I let the car cool down and replenish as needed.
It is not that hard actually, but a note: the tensioner pulley adjustment is based on temperature of the engine at that moment, so it might vary depending on your circumstances.
Excellent video but just be aware to put pressure evenly you never tighten the bolts in a circular motion, always go in a zig zag pattern very important, meaning for every bolt you touch the next one is opposite side.
Good points but i usually may install the bolts hand tight in a circular motion and apply the final torque in a zig zag pattern starting from the inside.
Awesome job... I'm probably going to do my s60 soon... I love to do timing belts ...I've done lots of Mitsubishi 4g63 dohc engines and for some reason this Volvo engines don't look hard to do timing belt.. The 4g63 engines oil pump sprocket it's a bitch to place on timing mark and it moves even on touch.. Plus the balance shaft belt it's behind the timing belt makes it a pain in the ass
The 4g63 looks like an interesting engine in that there are 2 belts like Honda's F22 & F23 engine. On the Honda the balance shaft belt is in front ... not behind the TB. Here's a link to a video on did on its replacement if interested: ruclips.net/video/zR6W_gP1bo4/видео.html
If the cams or crank move slightly after the belt has been removed and you need to align one or two or three of them, is it okay to turn clockwise or counterclockwise? Meaning is it okay to simply turn either way to realign the markings? Do you recommend using a camshaft pulley/cog locking device? Good video btw.
Not using a cam locking tool is a Cardinal error. You can't move the cam back because valve spring pressure is fighting you. Never do this job without a cam locking tool.
So you don't drain radiator of coolant first? Just take off WP and catch coolant with container? About how much fluid comes out? Thanks. Won't drain if I don't have to.
I have a ton of questions, I've never done anything this complicated, but I have done standard tune ups, I did an engine swap on an old honda and it was fairly easy, the hardest part was finding where all the wires went. Do you think I can do this job?
@@Tanstattoo Sure. The Volvo is easier than Toyota's and Honda's IMHO. Use a paint stick to mark the belt with both the cam and crank pulleys. Transfer the marks to the new belt then you'll know you're in prefect alignment.
If there's coolant leakage, regardless of whether it's from a broken radiator, hose or worn out water pump, stop the car immediately to prevent the head gasket from failing. Otherwise, replacement of a head gasket will be a very expensive repair. Symptoms of a bad water pump would be coolant sling around the perimeter of the pump and or a bearing grinding noise. Also, the pump has a weep hole that maybe leaking out coolant.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks so much yes the water pump was making a noise But what I was asking is will it cause the engine to not be able to start any longer as like a failsafe because of the computer telling it to not run
@@ramseytruthbros7777 The water pump is a mechanical device designed to only to circulate coolant. So yes, you can start the car and let it run. Just keep an eye on your temperature gauge and your coolant level.
Hey. Good video man. I have a Focus st from 2006. Basically it should be the same thing. Did you use the bolts to put in, to hold the cam shafts or is it okay, if only doing it by the alignment marks?
thanks! I've found no need to lock the cams from moving. You can generally move the cams a few degrees to the left or right without worrying about the cam "jumping". Even if they do, I just reset them back to their alignment marks with a box wrench. To ease belt mounting and avoid belt slack, you can move the cam around with a box wrench while mounting/aligning the belt. If you leave the cam and crank at their TDC marks during belt installation, it'll be difficult to mount since the belt doesn't stretch.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it :) . I have to do the same job, because the last owner thought not to change the water pump when changing the timing belt. It is leaking water from there now... And what do you mean with:" ... it´ll be difficult to mount since the belt doesn´t stretch? isn´t it possible to keep tension off the tensioner when putting the belt on? Hope that after it gets tension, it won´t move a tooth from the alignment mark...?
@@steveromeocars There's a right side (cam to crank side) and the left side (belt tensioner bearing side). The right side is where you may struggle to get the belt on between the 1st camshaft with the crankshaft. You can move either one of the two towards each other by around 1 cog to ease installation. Afterwards, set the shaft back to the TDC mark ... the belt should be slack free. If the belt goes past the TDC mark, then you're off 1 cog. Hope this helps!
It looked like you installed the belt backwards... the grooves in the belt should run in the matching points on the pulley. It looked like the flat side of belt was running on the pulley. Did I see it wrong?
I have a question about the tensioner pulley. Does the beginning/starting point/rotation have to be in a certain degree (some have said something like 10 o'clock, some said 7 o'clock, some said 11 o'clock) before rotating to increase and set the tension (to align the final between the two tabs @~70°F ambient temperature)?
Thanks for your comment but impossible to misalign using paint alignment marks (for the benefit of those who never did a timing belt replacement job). Job was done over a year ago and the car's be running fine with no check engine light.
@@hardlymovingpro you made those paint marks so everything would align exactly instead of just using the timing marks because there were no codes and no engine light,correct? my check engine light is on my timing marks are not quite matching up to each other. should i line up the crank mark and adjust the cams gears marks til they match up perfectly with the marks on the cover while ensuring that the crank gear alignment marks stays perfectly aligned with the marks on the block?Do I make sure the crank shaft gear which has marks to align with the marks on the block they make yourr own marks on the cams wherever the marks on the cover are
Hey man!I have the same s80 v8 and I want to replace my water pump and I can't get hold of one!!can you help me where to get one and tell me which company to go for??
Here you go! You've got 3 choices. I'd go with the Beck/Arnley if I were you: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,2008,s80,4.4l+v8,1441402,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 To support our channel and to get updates on new videos, please subscribe.
Thanks for your post! As far as I know, Volvo doesn't sell diesel powered cars in the US market. I assume because the US air quality standards are the toughest in the world? Anyway, unless Volvo's diesel engine have the injector pump driven by the timing belt (like VW's TDI engines), I do not see how the timing belt replacement would be that much more difficult and different than a gasoline powered engine. With the VW TDI, you have to time the injector pump after installing a new belt; otherwise it'll smoke. And after around 20,000 miles if the TDI starts to smoke, the injector pump has to be re-timed to accommodate the belt stretch. What I did was install the belt, left the injector pump alone and in around 15,000 miles, the customer noted that the engine smoked less. So I assume the eventual belt stretch brought the injector pump into the correct time. I'm talking less than a 1/2 degree of belt stretch!
yes. If possible use impact wrench. my old Ryobi rated for 200 ft lbs was enough, it is not like a Honda where superhuman capabilities are required. A specialty tool is also made
@@hardlymovingpro 29mm fits tight. However, despite all efforts with impact wrenches, long breaker bar, and locking the pulley, I still did not manage to loosen the nut. Frustrating...... waiting for corona lockdown to ease and bring Volvo mechanic over to do some ....trick?? Any ideas?
@@renzosmultitalented Oh ... then you have 2 choices: 1. Align the crankshaft and camshaft to top-dead-center, put on a new belt and see how the car runs. -or- 2. Do a compression test on each cylinder to determine if any of the valves are bent. I prefer doing 1. If the engine doesn't run okay, then I'll have to think about removing the cylinder head and having the valves replaced by a professional auto engine repair shop.
3.59 your crank timing looks off?..there is factory markings on the teeth that are meant to line up with a pattern on the engine casting. Engine will still work though as vvt will shift to suit.
If it were off, the ECM would eventually throw a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor error code. Also, this is where the crankshaft settled when the engine was aligned to the camshaft sprocket's TDC mark before the belt was removed; and paint marks were used on the new belt to ensure alignment with the cam sprockets.
@@hardlymovingpro At first: THANKS a lot for this short and precise video. Today I followed it on my Volvo S80 2.0T. One time I already did it after 100.000 km, now again on 300.000 km. But this time something must have been wrong. The car starts and drives perfectly fine, but it appears the OBD P0016 error, crankshaft-camshaft position correlation...appeared first, after 30 km of driving. Can't delete it, appears always again. In general the solution is easy, I guess. Open the cover again and check, if the timing is off or not. The only problem: Like mentioned in your video, on 4:00 minutes, i have for the camshaft only a cutout-section on the plastic-top-cover of the cylinderhead. But this cut-out is about 20mm, so in this cut-out part fit about 2 teeth, which doesn't make it easy to find the exact position. Do you have any ideas / advice, how to find the proper position? I think it is just one or two sprockets off.
@@Speeny89 Did you apply paint marks to the old timing belt (to transfer to the new belt), cam & crank pulleys, and the engine? This reason why I did this in the video is because of the lack of clear timing belt alignment marks by Volvo. You only need to be off 1 cog to trigger the P0016 code. What you can do when realigning the belt, start the car and let it run for awhile before putting everything back together.
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah, I made them. On the top they fitted perfectly fine, on the downside it was hard to make a mark, because there was a high gap between crankshaft and belt. But that's one option, just connect a battery charger, for not run empty fast.
@@hardlymovingprowhy does the new belt need need to be marked ?the gears and pulleys location with the block for sure a must do to ensure timing is aligned. is it so you know that the distance of the splines between the teeth on each gear to eliminate slack ? obviously that would prevent getting the belt tight as it could not jump over a spline to get tight using the tensioner pulley
Hello Sir. I'm watching your video from France. Very useful. I have a C70 with similar petrol 5 cylinder turbo. Please, do you know what is the right torque to apply for belt tensioner bolt? And what is the red paste you put on new water pump gasket? Thanks again and best regards.
For 14 mm bolts or less, I usually don't use a torque wrench very much unless it's a very critical components. In that case, I use liquid thread lock on the bolt threads. The red paste is called RTV. It's a liquid silicone rubber that solidifies when exposed to air. It's also called "gasket maker". It's listed as a part in this video's description as " Permatex Hi-Temp Red Form-A-Gasket Silicone Sealant:".
you have probably already replaced your water pump "5 months ago" lol if so were there any difficulties ? did you replace the cam shaft seals, timing belt, crank seals and or timing belt?
"Do Not Use Gasket Sealer On The Water Pump Gasket" !! Aisin says this is a big contributor to leaks (there's a video from them on RUclips about this). Volvo didn't use it in the factory so why use it on replacement? I didn't see any sealer on the your water pump bolts you used though, some bolts go thru to the water jacket and will definitely leak with out sealer on the threads. I use Locktite head bolt and water jacket sealer # 1158514. If you order replacement bolts from Volvo they come with the sealer already applied (like they use in the factory). On a side note, you should really use the OEM Aisin pump, it's just a little more and you get the original equipment "Volvo pump" with the "Volvo" name ground off.
Thanks for you advice but been using RTV with no problems for years with paper element gaskets. With a light coat the old gasket won't stick to the engine block in pieces. Aisin pumps are good but have had good success with GMB and Gates.
@@hardlymovingpro Your welcome, I guess Aisin is incorrect. I just replaced a friend's pump on his 07 XC70 after 2 months, he used a light coat of sealer too and it turned his gasket into mush. Watch their video. ruclips.net/video/qO5ggJt3cwo/видео.html.
Not for newbies who have never did a timing belt replacement job. You can easily mount the belt between the cams but be off one cog because of belt slack. Seen this mistake many time!
That I'd have to disagree with you. If you use a razor and not extremely careful, you'll gouge the contact surface. If you use sandpaper, it'll look pretty but will not seal properly. Using a rotary steel wire brush on a angle is SOP (standard operating procedure) in professional auto repair shops. Did a couple of hundred of w/p replacements cleaning contact surfaces with a wire brush with NO follow up leaks! Seen leaks with razors and sandpaper cleaning. Only fix is to coat the gasket with RTV.
You may be right for those guys not use to auto repair. They tend to over torque and shear off nuts and bolts. My videos give you a basic understanding of what's involve in doing the repair; it's not a formal instructional repair video.
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After watching ten other videos on this timing mark thing , you were the only one that correctly stated they are on the BACK side. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
This is a great video! Thank you so much for posting your knowledge and tricks. I have done 2 belts on Volvo P1 2.5T's and I wondered the differences for my XC90, which is oil fouled and needs a camshaft seal. Excellent editing and keeping to the job at hand. God bless you!
Glad you found it helpful!
For first timers this is the best vid on you tube right now
Thanks for your comment and support!
Excellent video ! I just tackled this job on a 2005 v70 and so glad I had your video for guidance ! Greatly appreciated!!!!!!
Glad it helped!
Good video good editing straight to the point 👍
I'm glad you didn't tell your life story like some other videos I've seen lol.
Thanks ... Some complain it's too fast.
@@hardlymovingpro it's probably because they're not a mechanic and they're feeling a little unsure about the whole thing.
True. Can't please everyone. They can also pause or slow down the playback.
I like hearing the mechanic complain and talk about stuff. Usually pretty funny and takes away a degree of misery. But you stayed with it and dropped some serious knowledge. @@hardlymovingpro
Excellent video. You helped me to avoid whole bunch of time. Thanks!
Good for you and thanks for your support!
Thanks for your video. Straight to the point and well made. Will help me do the job successfully.
Thanks for your post and good luck!
Nice job. Thanks for the helpful advice. I liked the belt clips the large catch pan and the 1/4 ratchet on the 10mm bolt (just snapped one). On the 2005 XC90 T6, the pump comes out from the top. Keep going!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent, you did a very good job. Every step and sequence helped me.
Glad it worked out for you!
Very good job. Greetings from The Netherlands
Thanks!
The small black cover behind the crank pulley is there so that you don't have to remove the crank pulley to remove the cam belt ! Further more the radiator header tank & power steering reservoir can be easily unclipped & moved out of the way, without having to drain either system. Also the ECU box lid , and mid section are easy to remove, giving even more room for access.
Thanks for sharing! Whatever works!
Great video, looks like this specific B5 engine has hydraulic valve cam timing for both intake and exhaust cams. Like the "R" engine, cool.
Thanks for your comment and the info!
That guy is a beast
excellent ,just the way it should be done
👍
This is well interested,it would guide the engineer and acquired more knowledge and experience
Thanks!
Well done video thank you so much I tried recording a video one time and it was extremely difficult, great job
Glad it helped!
Great video but I noticed a few things I would to different. I would cross tourqe the waterpump bolts 17Nm (12 lb.ft) instead of in a circle motion to ensure even pressure. It's also stated that the tensioner where you put the 6mm allenkey should be in the 11 o'clock position and then pulled anti-clockwise until you pass the +50°C mark (the one to the right) with the lever and then set it to correct temperature setting and meanwhile holding it tourqe it down to 20 Nm (15 lb.ft)..and then finally turn the crankshaft two full turns (720°) to see if the alignment is still correct for the cams and crank.. then finish it all up. Beside this things.. very good quality of video.. keep up the good work! A clear thumbs up from me :)
Thanks. Never had any alignment problem using paint marks.
you are the BEST!!
You bet!
Not gonna lie that was very time consuming but not as hard as other vehicles. I was originally looking to replace my thermostat right next to the timing belt i was hoping to see a way to do that effectively lol instead i learned a way to tackle the water pump and belt...😄
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much. 😃😘. It's great!
You're welcome 😊
Excellent tutorial, Thanks!
You bet!
Fixed like a boss
Great news and congratulations!
very good vedio made by an experience technician
Thanks! Appreciate your post and comment!
Amazing Great Job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Very helpfull! Thankyou!
No problem!
Good job 👍
Thanks for the visit
Hello Sir, thanks for sharing your video, this is the best step by step in you tube so far how to change the timing belt.I wish you where here near me. I have a problem with my s60+r volvo. The gasket of the solenoid broke and some oil run at the belt. They told me to change the intire belt. So i bought a kit including the waterpump, but still I am afraid to change myself. I will let the pro to change for me but still it will cost me dearly.
Sorry to learn of your problem. You could, perhaps, shop around for a professional mechanic that does part time work on Craigslist. I found a decent and honest home HVAC guy that way. A $4,500 repair quote eventually cost me only $600. He only needed to replace the AC compressor and recharge the unit. Everyone else wanted to replace EVERYTHING!
is it the 2.5t or the 2.9 depending where you are labor is $ 200 and up
It's a 2.5L turbo. Am I reading that right? $200 an hour is what you're paying for Volvo mechanical labor?
no....the job if your bringing the parts its $200 and up for the job
i don't go the the dealer for no service at all i do it myself
Would you have a video or recommend someone with a video to replace a PCV valve thanks in advance
Don't have the video but did the work. It requires removal of the intake manifold / plenum. It's a lot of work and the parts aren't cheap. Figure out what needs to be replaced after everything is opened up rather than buying these expensive kits.
Hi , I have 2004 xc90 2.9l 70k miles it had p0011 p0014 I drove it while those codes were on , then the car stall and now crank no start , I changed the crankshaft sensor and 2 camshafts sensors and 2 new vvt and still crank no start .
Today I checked the marks on timing I find out the exhaust mark is off by 3 teeth .
If I bring the timing to standard would it start or it's waste of time .
How do I know I didnt bent the valves?
Sounds like you had a timing belt jump. Best to replace the belts, pulleys and tensioner and reset the timing positions. Don't believe the valves are bent but you can verify by doing a compression check. Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro the compression is 0 zero now , is bringing the timing alignment back to sepc would make the compression come back ?
Compression test is done after the belt has been realigned.
@hardlymovingpro no , I didn't correct the timing yet , I test the compression earlier today and it was zero , my question if correct the timming would I get compression back or it's late ?
Some people telling me that the valavs are bent .
But when I think about it I feel the valavs are just open because of timming is way off .
I don't know if I correct the timming or jump to conclusion of remove the valaves head and rebuild it .
Excelente explicación mi amigo 👍🏼👍🏼👌👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks!
thank you- korea
Your welcome!
Like video but where is the freeze plugs located on the timing cover
Freeze plugs are for the engine block. Prevents the block from cracking if the coolant freezes. The plugs blow out when there's internal engine ice formation.
Thanks fro this I have been looking for a T60 Torx inlet to loosen the tension, but no success. Now I know why. What size nut was this on tensioner?
Believe it was either a 12 or 13 mm.
Did you by chance change the thermostat at the same time? Some newer vehicles hav the thermostat as a entire housing instead of just the thermostat. Is that the case her or is it in a separate location and separate video?
Also understanding that these projects can take sometimes twice as long or longer with having to stop, record, make notes etc....if you didn’t have to record and edit video approximately how much time was spent in the actual project itself not counting the obvious steps of jacking, removing tire and inner fender well panel and pouring fresh coolant in to service and getting the air pockets out? Is this system pretty good about filling in the air pockets themselves and just filling the coolant reservoir or is there a separate “Burping” procedure?
Good video, thanks for tips.
No ... I didn't replace the thermostat. As long as the coolant is clean and there's no erratic changes in temperature, don't see the need to replace it. When they do fail, it fails on the "stays open" side which will over cool and not harm the engine.
This is approximately a 3 hour job. One way to reduce air pockets after replacing the water pump is to disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and pour in coolant (which will go directly into the engine block); otherwise, I just keep pouring coolant into the reservoir and keep a eye on the coolant level as the car warms up. After reaching peak temp., I let the car cool down and replenish as needed.
It is not that hard actually, but a note: the tensioner pulley adjustment is based on temperature of the engine at that moment, so it might vary depending on your circumstances.
That's correct but don't believe it makes that much difference
Just take a look at the old one before you take it off :)
Excellent video but just be aware to put pressure evenly you never tighten the bolts in a circular motion, always go in a zig zag pattern very important, meaning for every bolt you touch the next one is opposite side.
Good points but i usually may install the bolts hand tight in a circular motion and apply the final torque in a zig zag pattern starting from the inside.
How do you get to the thermostat on this buddy??
Believe where the top radiator hose connects to the engine on the front passenger side.
@@hardlymovingpro i tried and it was nothing inside so it must be another entrance
fantastic
Thanks
Deff thinking about doing this doesn’t look so hard but deff don’t have all them tools
Start with a good ac electric impact driver. Under $100
Thanks for the video . Can I change my volvo s60 timing belt as this video ?
The procedure is pretty much the same.
@@hardlymovingpro Ok thank you
@@hardlymovingpro I dont understand some details so that on the top gears have special marks or not ?
@@MsDelfin12 not really which is why i make my own with paint
@@hardlymovingpro Ahh . This marks ( you have painted) will help you to find same location on the new timing belt area to fix for gear . Am I right ?
3:01. Every home mechanic knows that sigh!
Yup ... you know it!
Ii m concerned about doing this by myself because I'm not ba mechanic ..do you think I should try this at all?
Got any friends who have some auto tools and knowledge?
Awesome job... I'm probably going to do my s60 soon... I love to do timing belts ...I've done lots of Mitsubishi 4g63 dohc engines and for some reason this Volvo engines don't look hard to do timing belt.. The 4g63 engines oil pump sprocket it's a bitch to place on timing mark and it moves even on touch.. Plus the balance shaft belt it's behind the timing belt makes it a pain in the ass
The 4g63 looks like an interesting engine in that there are 2 belts like Honda's F22 & F23 engine. On the Honda the balance shaft belt is in front ... not behind the TB. Here's a link to a video on did on its replacement if interested: ruclips.net/video/zR6W_gP1bo4/видео.html
Thanks
Welcome
If the cams or crank move slightly after the belt has been removed and you need to align one or two or three of them, is it okay to turn clockwise or counterclockwise? Meaning is it okay to simply turn either way to realign the markings? Do you recommend using a camshaft pulley/cog locking device? Good video btw.
Just reposition the cam or crank if it moved. It won't damage anything. From my perspective, no need for a locking device.
Mine moved counter clockwise about an inch and now I can’t move it back clockwise. It’s like it’s stuck? Any help please
Not using a cam locking tool is a Cardinal error. You can't move the cam back because valve spring pressure is fighting you. Never do this job without a cam locking tool.
Did you have to jack the engine up or take off the wheel?
Answers to your questions are in the video.
So you don't drain radiator of coolant first? Just take off WP and catch coolant with container? About how much fluid comes out? Thanks. Won't drain if I don't have to.
That's correct. Don't drain the radiator. Around .5 gallons to add back in.
What size is the central nut of te crankshaft pully?
Don't recall. I just grab a socket that fits from my socket set.
Do you think this the same process for a 2014 volvo s60 t5?
Yes ... I'd think so. All their 5 cylinder motors are pretty much the same.
I have a ton of questions, I've never done anything this complicated, but I have done standard tune ups, I did an engine swap on an old honda and it was fairly easy, the hardest part was finding where all the wires went. Do you think I can do this job?
Do you think I need the locking tools recommended by fcp auto?
@@Tanstattoo Sure. The Volvo is easier than Toyota's and Honda's IMHO. Use a paint stick to mark the belt with both the cam and crank pulleys. Transfer the marks to the new belt then you'll know you're in prefect alignment.
@@Tanstattoo I don't need or use it. If the camshaft jumps, just put it back to its old position.
Sir, quick question. What brand are your ratcheting wrenches??
Just found the parts and tools list. Thank you Sir.
Milwaukee.
Do u know if a water pump when it goes out and leaks coolant everywhere will that cause the engine to stop running because of the sensor
If there's coolant leakage, regardless of whether it's from a broken radiator, hose or worn out water pump, stop the car immediately to prevent the head gasket from failing. Otherwise, replacement of a head gasket will be a very expensive repair. Symptoms of a bad water pump would be coolant sling around the perimeter of the pump and or a bearing grinding noise. Also, the pump has a weep hole that maybe leaking out coolant.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks so much yes the water pump was making a noise But what I was asking is will it cause the engine to not be able to start any longer as like a failsafe because of the computer telling it to not run
@@ramseytruthbros7777 The water pump is a mechanical device designed to only to circulate coolant. So yes, you can start the car and let it run. Just keep an eye on your temperature gauge and your coolant level.
Hey. Good video man. I have a Focus st from 2006. Basically it should be the same thing. Did you use the bolts to put in, to hold the cam shafts or is it okay, if only doing it by the alignment marks?
thanks! I've found no need to lock the cams from moving. You can generally move the cams a few degrees to the left or right without worrying about the cam "jumping". Even if they do, I just reset them back to their alignment marks with a box wrench. To ease belt mounting and avoid belt slack, you can move the cam around with a box wrench while mounting/aligning the belt. If you leave the cam and crank at their TDC marks during belt installation, it'll be difficult to mount since the belt doesn't stretch.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it :) . I have to do the same job, because the last owner thought not to change the water pump when changing the timing belt. It is leaking water from there now...
And what do you mean with:" ... it´ll be difficult to mount since the belt doesn´t stretch? isn´t it possible to keep tension off the tensioner when putting the belt on? Hope that after it gets tension, it won´t move a tooth from the alignment mark...?
@@steveromeocars There's a right side (cam to crank side) and the left side (belt tensioner bearing side). The right side is where you may struggle to get the belt on between the 1st camshaft with the crankshaft. You can move either one of the two towards each other by around 1 cog to ease installation. Afterwards, set the shaft back to the TDC mark ... the belt should be slack free. If the belt goes past the TDC mark, then you're off 1 cog. Hope this helps!
Nice birds man😂🤣🙂🙂😆☺️👽👽
Thanks!
Please will the valves burn if my taming belt tears
They would bend with the pistons smashing into the valves.
tensioner removed improperly, it has a torx recess to relieve tension. you risked the pulley flying off up into your face
Interesting. Don't see how that's possible.
On the video it looks, like there is tons of space. But that's a big fail ;) There is so less space, that there is no way to fly.
It looked like you installed the belt backwards... the grooves in the belt should run in the matching points on the pulley. It looked like the flat side of belt was running on the pulley. Did I see it wrong?
Unless the belt manufacturer explicitly marks the belt direction, then it doesn't matter.
I have a question about the tensioner pulley. Does the beginning/starting point/rotation have to be in a certain degree (some have said something like 10 o'clock, some said 7 o'clock, some said 11 o'clock) before rotating to increase and set the tension (to align the final between the two tabs @~70°F ambient temperature)?
I just lined up between the two tabs.
Did he disrupt the engine? I felt like his marks were wrong
Thanks for your comment but impossible to misalign using paint alignment marks (for the benefit of those who never did a timing belt replacement job). Job was done over a year ago and the car's be running fine with no check engine light.
@@hardlymovingpro you made those paint marks so everything would align exactly instead of just using the timing marks because there were no codes and no engine light,correct? my check engine light is on my timing marks are not quite matching up to each other. should i line up the crank mark and adjust the cams gears marks til they match up perfectly with the marks on the cover while ensuring that the crank gear alignment marks stays perfectly aligned with the marks on the block?Do I make sure the crank shaft gear which has marks to align with the marks on the block they make yourr own marks on the cams wherever the marks on the cover are
Hey man!I have the same s80 v8 and I want to replace my water pump and I can't get hold of one!!can you help me where to get one and tell me which company to go for??
Here you go! You've got 3 choices. I'd go with the Beck/Arnley if I were you:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,2008,s80,4.4l+v8,1441402,cooling+system,water+pump,2208
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Hello bro, i have the same s80 but with diseal engine D5 2.4 turbo ?? Do u have it there. And can u make video how to change the belt
Thanks for your post! As far as I know, Volvo doesn't sell diesel powered cars in the US market. I assume because the US air quality standards are the toughest in the world? Anyway, unless Volvo's diesel engine have the injector pump driven by the timing belt (like VW's TDI engines), I do not see how the timing belt replacement would be that much more difficult and different than a gasoline powered engine. With the VW TDI, you have to time the injector pump after installing a new belt; otherwise it'll smoke. And after around 20,000 miles if the TDI starts to smoke, the injector pump has to be re-timed to accommodate the belt stretch. What I did was install the belt, left the injector pump alone and in around 15,000 miles, the customer noted that the engine smoked less. So I assume the eventual belt stretch brought the injector pump into the correct time. I'm talking less than a 1/2 degree of belt stretch!
Wawo!!! So critical ..thx
The camshaft Bolt is 30mm? Thanks
Don't recall.
yes. If possible use impact wrench. my old Ryobi rated for 200 ft lbs was enough, it is not like a Honda where superhuman capabilities are required. A specialty tool is also made
@@hardlymovingpro 29mm fits tight. However, despite all efforts with impact wrenches, long breaker bar, and locking the pulley, I still did not manage to loosen the nut. Frustrating...... waiting for corona lockdown to ease and bring Volvo mechanic over to do some ....trick?? Any ideas?
Milwaukee M18 high torque impact tool
How do you know you didn’t bend anything internally
Don't understand. Bend what internally? For example?
Valves
If the belt was not installed properly you'd get a check engine light with a camshaft position error code. Won't bend any valves being off 1 cog.
Thanks for reply I was speaking of prior to taking belt off. I have an 03 s80 that broke timing taking off from a stop sign .
@@renzosmultitalented Oh ... then you have 2 choices: 1. Align the crankshaft and camshaft to top-dead-center, put on a new belt and see how the car runs. -or- 2. Do a compression test on each cylinder to determine if any of the valves are bent. I prefer doing 1. If the engine doesn't run okay, then I'll have to think about removing the cylinder head and having the valves replaced by a professional auto engine repair shop.
3.59 your crank timing looks off?..there is factory markings on the teeth that are meant to line up with a pattern on the engine casting. Engine will still work though as vvt will shift to suit.
If it were off, the ECM would eventually throw a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor error code. Also, this is where the crankshaft settled when the engine was aligned to the camshaft sprocket's TDC mark before the belt was removed; and paint marks were used on the new belt to ensure alignment with the cam sprockets.
@@hardlymovingpro At first: THANKS a lot for this short and precise video.
Today I followed it on my Volvo S80 2.0T. One time I already did it after 100.000 km, now again on 300.000 km.
But this time something must have been wrong. The car starts and drives perfectly fine, but it appears the OBD P0016 error, crankshaft-camshaft position correlation...appeared first, after 30 km of driving. Can't delete it, appears always again.
In general the solution is easy, I guess. Open the cover again and check, if the timing is off or not.
The only problem: Like mentioned in your video, on 4:00 minutes, i have for the camshaft only a cutout-section on the plastic-top-cover of the cylinderhead. But this cut-out is about 20mm, so in this cut-out part fit about 2 teeth, which doesn't make it easy to find the exact position.
Do you have any ideas / advice, how to find the proper position? I think it is just one or two sprockets off.
@@Speeny89 Did you apply paint marks to the old timing belt (to transfer to the new belt), cam & crank pulleys, and the engine? This reason why I did this in the video is because of the lack of clear timing belt alignment marks by Volvo. You only need to be off 1 cog to trigger the P0016 code. What you can do when realigning the belt, start the car and let it run for awhile before putting everything back together.
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah, I made them. On the top they fitted perfectly fine, on the downside it was hard to make a mark, because there was a high gap between crankshaft and belt.
But that's one option, just connect a battery charger, for not run empty fast.
@@hardlymovingprowhy does the new belt need need to be marked ?the gears and pulleys location with the block for sure a must do to ensure timing is aligned. is it so you know that the distance of the splines between the teeth on each gear to eliminate slack ? obviously that would prevent getting the belt tight as it could not jump over a spline to get tight using the tensioner pulley
very goog
Thanks!
4:16 I thought the mark should align to the top with metal thing from the engine.
From my recollection, there is no engine marks to align the camshafts to top-dead-center; which is why I used paint marks.
Im sorry i meant 4:16 the crankshaft pully mark , i thought should be point up not to the right side .@hardlymovingpro
It's been so long I don't recall.
use soft hammer only on crank pulley
Nope. Been there ... done that. Doesn't produce enough vibration to jar the rust free.
Amazing video! How many hours would this take on average? Planning on doing this on my XC70.
Took me less than 3 hours.
@@hardlymovingpro Oh, that's great to hear! Thanks!
Hello Sir. I'm watching your video from France. Very useful. I have a C70 with similar petrol 5 cylinder turbo.
Please, do you know what is the right torque to apply for belt tensioner bolt? And what is the red paste you put on new water pump gasket?
Thanks again and best regards.
For 14 mm bolts or less, I usually don't use a torque wrench very much unless it's a very critical components. In that case, I use liquid thread lock on the bolt threads. The red paste is called RTV. It's a liquid silicone rubber that solidifies when exposed to air. It's also called "gasket maker". It's listed as a part in this video's description as " Permatex Hi-Temp Red Form-A-Gasket Silicone Sealant:".
@@hardlymovingpro thank you very much.
Bye
Doesn't look too hard. Got a leaky waterpump here. Plan on doing this myself.
Good luck with the repair!
you have probably already replaced your water pump "5 months ago" lol if so were there any difficulties ? did you replace the cam shaft seals, timing belt, crank seals and or timing belt?
"Do Not Use Gasket Sealer On The Water Pump Gasket" !! Aisin says this is a big contributor to leaks (there's a video from them on RUclips about this). Volvo didn't use it in the factory so why use it on replacement? I didn't see any sealer on the your water pump bolts you used though, some bolts go thru to the water jacket and will definitely leak with out sealer on the threads. I use Locktite head bolt and water jacket sealer # 1158514. If you order replacement bolts from Volvo they come with the sealer already applied (like they use in the factory). On a side note, you should really use the OEM Aisin pump, it's just a little more and you get the original equipment "Volvo pump" with the "Volvo" name ground off.
Thanks for you advice but been using RTV with no problems for years with paper element gaskets. With a light coat the old gasket won't stick to the engine block in pieces. Aisin pumps are good but have had good success with GMB and Gates.
@@hardlymovingpro Your welcome, I guess Aisin is incorrect. I just replaced a friend's pump on his 07 XC70 after 2 months, he used a light coat of sealer too and it turned his gasket into mush. Watch their video. ruclips.net/video/qO5ggJt3cwo/видео.html.
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Thanks!
water pump bolts not precisely torqued or torqued in sequence. You know how to do the job but not refer to a service manual?
Perhaps ... but so far, so good. No leaks. Seen inexperienced techs shear off those small 10 mm water pump bolts using a torque wrench!
The belt don’t need to be marked just pulleys
Not for newbies who have never did a timing belt replacement job. You can easily mount the belt between the cams but be off one cog because of belt slack. Seen this mistake many time!
@@hardlymovingpro that answered my question/reasoning that i posted earlier. thx again for your great tutorial !
@@lanajacknichols8397 You bet!
Who drew the diagram 😂😂😂😂😂
Yours truly!
NO STEEL BRUSH ON ALUMINUM BLOCK!!!! There are appropriate abrasives for machined alum surfaces.
That I'd have to disagree with you. If you use a razor and not extremely careful, you'll gouge the contact surface. If you use sandpaper, it'll look pretty but will not seal properly. Using a rotary steel wire brush on a angle is SOP (standard operating procedure) in professional auto repair shops. Did a couple of hundred of w/p replacements cleaning contact surfaces with a wire brush with NO follow up leaks! Seen leaks with razors and sandpaper cleaning. Only fix is to coat the gasket with RTV.
Except the torque values need to be applied, using hand tools!
You may be right for those guys not use to auto repair. They tend to over torque and shear off nuts and bolts. My videos give you a basic understanding of what's involve in doing the repair; it's not a formal instructional repair video.
should be same on 05?
Yes ... I would say so.
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Thanks!