For only 500 miles this manufacturer appears to be pretty bad. And for $18,000.00 it’s absolutely criminal. Godspeed brother if anyone has the patience to sort this out it’s you.
So at 10:19 there's ya clue. Melted starer cables = over draw on starter. What causes starter to draw too much current? Decompression broke or engine friction.
The voltage goes down because the starter is drawing down the voltage. If you want to check the solenoid check voltage drop across the two terminals when cranking. It should be close to zero volts.
56:55 When cranking with the oil/water pump cover off, it looked like there was significant blow by from the rear cylinder. It was puffing out of the case.
Brother, first off, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours! Given this is two straight UTVs with almost the exact same issue, but very different causes, there is nobody better to solve this puzzle. Love your videos, very educational, thank you for always sharing them with us!
What a bad idea with that plastic gear again. I'm thinking that an oil journal is blocked maybe causing it to starve one of the bearings, or the lack of the pump would definitely be a problem if it ran long enough to melt the guide. Looking forward to seeing what you find. Merry Christmas to everyone.🎄❤️
My guess is the connecting rod bearing is done. Under compression load, it tightens. The engine has to been running for a long time without oil pressure until it overheated. Therefore, the attached waterpump parts.
That someone actually paid $18,000 for that in 2021is really quite difficult to comprehend! The depreciation rate is of a magnitude far lower than the Journey of Jules Verne...
I just watched a video the other day on the Can Am Outlander 1000XMR and it was almost $20,000! That's absolutely fckn insane! These companies are charging ridiculous prices!
@@frenchbulldogdad1003 Strangely, people will pay these ludicously exorbitant prices and be subject to the catastrophic depreciation costs. At least with established, respected manufacturers from Japan, Canada and the USA the buyer gets a quality product, but buying Chinese manufactured machines at those prices is insanity.
@CJRSBK This is absolutely spot on! Paying a higher price for a machine from an established, respected manufacturer from the USA, Canada or Japan is understandable, but for these Chinese made vehicles, no way.
back in the mid 2000 i fought tooth and nail with Kawasaki over a Mule i purchased. took me 18 months to get my money back for that lemon that didn't even work a week, then another two years fixing my credit due to default on payment for that pile of sh!t. i never bought a Kawasaki product again. Kawasaki made it feel like i was dealing with a shady used car salesman. great vid as always.
In a previous episode with these plastic gears a sub wrote that he had a machine shop make him steel gears. Maybe its time to look into that. Merry Christmas Joe and to all the subs! And to Vinny too.
When testing things like the earth connection, you need to test it with a loaded circuit, such as using a test light, as this will show a poor connection better than just checking the resistance. For a heavier load use car headlight bulbs and make your own test kit.
Only 500 miles shouldn’t it still be under warranty? Least you should get free parts. You’ll figure it out. Let your subconscious work on the problem for a little while. Love your videos, have a happy holiday Joe.
If that cam chain guide is worn bad enough the chain could still feel tight but it may be throwing it out of time during rotation so you have a valve not opening at the right time,just a thought.
Having a friend that works in the dealership really helps with finding those brand new projects. You’re getting quite the collection of SxS impressive indeed
57:42 to 57:53 There is something visible that is rotating with the engine. However, keep watching after Joe quits cranking there is something else that sags down almost 1/2 inch. Look through the slot on the RHS of the area covered by the case he's removed
By the looks of it that has ran for a long time with no water pump or oil pump working! The engine must have been really hot for the chain guide to melt. I would say you should take the cams out and see if there is any damage to either of the cams or the journals they run in. If there is that engine is scrap and you should probably just look for an engine.
A $16k payment? Knowing dealers, he probably owed more than $20k after all the b.s. fees and bogus warranties they add on. Hopefully, it's just too high compression, making it crank slow, and it's an easy fix. Decompression mechanism, valves too tight, or timing adjustment might just fix her right up. Good luck. Btw, heated seats? Imagine that while ice fishing. I think this one would be a keeper for me because of the heated seats. Sell two others and keep this one. You might even be able to get your beautiful wife to come with you more often with heated seats.
Wish I could find those deals!! lol Merry Christmas!! Just a note, your voltage is not going be the same cranking as it is at rest. IF the problem is compression release, the starter is having to work harder than it normally would. Voltage will drop approximately 2 volts during cranking, up to 3 volts on the initial starter engagement IF everything is normal. If it is cranking slowly the FIRST thing to check is what the amperage draw is. The harder it is to crank, the higher the amperage draw, the more voltage it will use. Voltage and amperage reflect each other. It probably is the compression release, but remember it could also be the starter. IF the starter is worn out due to excessive cranking, the starter itself could be the cause of the excessive draw. Have a good one!!
You should watch a few videos from Pine Hollow auto diagnostics PAD, Ivan can show you some proper ways of testing for low draw ,voltage drop, you could benefit from investing in an amp clamp and making a couple of different amp rated test lights.
Yeah looks like oil pump failure maybe due to a blocked mesh/oil filter,so the camchain giude melted & destroyed the plastic drives..I would strip & clean it anyway & see if theres anymore damage inside just to be safe..Ian..UK..
I think you're onto to something with the order in which the carnage happened. Oiling was the first to fail. Melted guides and gears are the result of no oiling.
I searched quick and immediately saw horror stories about this machine failing 50 diff ways with low low miles ... but you get to sit on a heated seat as you cry about the $18k loan thats still due 😢😢
Joe, your videos would be better if you sped up those portions where you loosen/tighten multiple fasteners on an assembly. Otherwise great job educating us. Merry Christmas!
I don’t hate that flip up front end design, makes it very nice for maintenance when everything is accessible. This one seems a little more well thought out than most china rigs.
Dang! Moss came along way, jeeze! 18k and all those fancy things, that's pretty impressive. When I think of that brand, I think of those little $2500 jeeps. Looks like $3000 worth of parts worst case scenario. I don't think you can go to wrong with that.
The first thing I would do is check that little pin for wear on the decompression mechanism. Then valve clearances. Wouldn't that be crazy if it was the same problem as a couple of videos ago? In fact, jump straight to setting the valves at 3/1000 and see what happens.
They have came a long way with quality, I've have several side by side both Chinese and Polaris and the name brand has left me stranded more than my off market ones
500 miles no oil or water. Still have high compression. You can only assume bad bearings. But what caused gears to fail? You gotta go till you find cause, or risk it doing it again after putting all the work in. When things fail at 500 miles, could be as bad as motor being built out of specs? Should be some factory help in paying for Repair!!
The effect of a road beating before total break in. The lack of oil to that one cylinder is the main cause . The head looks a bit roasted and toasted .
Merry christmas joe. You know what has to be done which sux. It's odd that starter only had 8-9 volts in the engine, must be a small short? But I hate to think the engine has been 🎄
I would upgrade the battery and starter cables to a meatier gauge. There shouldn't be that much of a voltage drop with the properly sized cables. The starter could be defective. The fact that the battery cable insulation is melted shows high current draw. Is there an oiling spray bar for the cam chain?
Been watching Joe for years but in the last few years his videos keep on coming he should well be on 1miln subs 👌 merry Xmas and new year when it comes 🎉to
I am surprised you didn't pay more attention to the dry valvetrain on that one cylinder. Hope valves weren't open when you cranked the motor with that cylinder timing chain off.
Disconnect the power to the starter from the solenoid and then check the voltage. The starter straining causes a voltage drop, that's why the reading is low when you were cranking it.
I feel bad for people who are spending $18,000+ on an UTV and even worse for those who spend over $41,000 (El Jefe RG Edition) only to think they can go through anything with them and watch them blow up, then have to try and get them fixed by the dealer who laughed all the way to the bank and has no intention of honoring the warranty.
Another cool and wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas 🎄and a Happy New Year 🎉 along with all the other subscribers enjoy the Holidays 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
on harley/ss engines they use electric decompression valves. start button energizes solenoid that opens a small valve in head which bleeds off compression while cranking. when engine starts release start button and compression closes the valve, i have no clue what type of system this machine has but i would think it has some type of decompression system. but... with no functioning water/oil pump..... i have very little hope the bottom end survived.
Well, hey there, shade guy. He's been on a great run over the past couple of weeks. These hour-long episodes are great, and I'm sure they take a fair bit of work to crank out. Just throwing some gratefulness his way. Merry Christmas, guy.
Usually when u hear that little skip kinda sound when cranking its usually a motor problem. I heard it when u very first tried starting it for us. Try paying attention for that in Future.
There is an electrical fault somewhere because the thick cable insulation has melted. A large current was probably flowing through the wire before the fuses.The starter rotor touches the stator.The high current drags the rotor under load.The corrosion is visible on the stator.
As a European, if you asked me 5 years ago if I would be driving an American car today (or a Chinese for that matter) I would have died laughing, but here I am today driving a Tesla…
Honestly with those China jobs usually the engines are the only thing that last Just everything else falls apart around it. But then that's the Honda clones this is a whole new ball and chain.
A four brush starter is more powerful, it looks like they cheaped out using a two brush starter. Spin the oil pump with a drill to see if oil pumps up to the top end.
Check your camshafts, i think one of them (or both) have damage causing friction. One clue is the first cylinder you check compression cranking very slow.
Looks like the guy at the dealer knew the score. They have a certain margin to make it worth while, and if they spend more time than what that is, they can't waste it.
Damn , a rare video where the problem isn't diagnosed and fixed by the end . I'll be looking for the follow-up video in the next week or so . Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and Happy NewYear !!!
Your battery may have a bad cell ck load drop with a dc multimeter. Going below 10 v is a good indicator while trying to start.good luck how old is battery put on load tester.
I waited the whole video hoping you would do this....The positive lead from the battery to solenoid. It's burnt. Could be huge voltage drop under load. I noticed you add the jump pak before this cable too. Replace that cable or add the jump pak directly to the solenoid eliminating the melted positive cable.
You can place a dial indicator in the spark plug hole with the piston at TD center and turn the crank back and forth by hand that will tell you how much play is between the bearing to crank and or connecting rod.
We know that the engine got BEYOND hot. I say pull the engine and disassemble. With the quality level of the pieces we’ve seen used, there is no telling what may have happened inside. You wouldn’t think so, but warped metal pieces due to intense heat could be the issue. Closing tolerances inside may have galled cheap metal surfaces. Maybe it got hot, STARTED having some problems so they changed the oil. Once metal surfaces BEGIN to be affected it may have gotten worse AFTER changing oil. I think you’ll see blue rods and crap crank journals😢
Seems like blown crank bearings. Also see blow by at crankcase when you cranked it. We dont hear knocking so rod bearings may be ok, but seems like crank is jamming in spun bearings. Obvious oil starvation with that melted guide.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
To everyone one watching, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 👍
To you also
You too buddy
Merry Christmas from Newfoundland
Merry Christmas northern Ontario
North Wales, UK
Merry Christmas to all the 2vintage subscribers. Damn plastic gears. wtf.
For only 500 miles this manufacturer appears to be pretty bad. And for $18,000.00 it’s absolutely criminal. Godspeed brother if anyone has the patience to sort this out it’s you.
So at 10:19 there's ya clue. Melted starer cables = over draw on starter. What causes starter to draw too much current? Decompression broke or engine friction.
could not agree more!
The voltage goes down because the starter is drawing down the voltage.
If you want to check the solenoid check voltage drop across the two terminals when cranking. It should be close to zero volts.
56:55 When cranking with the oil/water pump cover off, it looked like there was significant blow by from the rear cylinder. It was puffing out of the case.
Brother, first off, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours! Given this is two straight UTVs with almost the exact same issue, but very different causes, there is nobody better to solve this puzzle. Love your videos, very educational, thank you for always sharing them with us!
This is the best thing on RUclips absolutely love it, looking forward to the next episode
What a bad idea with that plastic gear again. I'm thinking that an oil journal is blocked maybe causing it to starve one of the bearings, or the lack of the pump would definitely be a problem if it ran long enough to melt the guide. Looking forward to seeing what you find. Merry Christmas to everyone.🎄❤️
The deadskip while it is cranking sounds like piston issue. Maybe oil starved and worked into the cylinder wall. Great videos!
Ya, I would have used a bore scope camera when the plugs were out.
@@michaelbrinks8089 yes in the past I have suggested Joe use a borescope and show us the inside of cylinders
and we wait for part 2 after Christmas.. always fun to see the follow-up repairs. Happy Holidays everyone!!
My guess is the connecting rod bearing is done. Under compression load, it tightens. The engine has to been running for a long time without oil pressure until it overheated. Therefore, the attached waterpump parts.
That someone actually paid $18,000 for that in 2021is really quite difficult to comprehend!
The depreciation rate is of a magnitude far lower than the Journey of Jules Verne...
Cheap shit as well so badly made
Yep, Chinese junk 😂
I just watched a video the other day on the Can Am Outlander 1000XMR and it was almost $20,000! That's absolutely fckn insane! These companies are charging ridiculous prices!
@@frenchbulldogdad1003 Strangely, people will pay these ludicously exorbitant prices and be subject to the catastrophic depreciation costs.
At least with established, respected manufacturers from Japan, Canada and the USA the buyer gets a quality product, but buying Chinese manufactured machines at those prices is insanity.
@CJRSBK This is absolutely spot on!
Paying a higher price for a machine from an established, respected manufacturer from the USA, Canada or Japan is understandable, but for these Chinese made vehicles, no way.
Its cranking slow because the crank is smoked
It's smoking because the crank is cranking
back in the mid 2000 i fought tooth and nail with Kawasaki over a Mule i purchased. took me 18 months to get my money back for that lemon that didn't even work a week, then another two years fixing my credit due to default on payment for that pile of sh!t. i never bought a Kawasaki product again. Kawasaki made it feel like i was dealing with a shady used car salesman. great vid as always.
I haven’t cared about quads since the 90s and I love these videos. Each one is a mystery I’m trying to solve myself. Good job Joe!
When I saw the water pump gears, I thought, uh-oh piston and cylinder walls are scarred, lots of friction.
In a previous episode with these plastic gears a sub wrote that he had a machine shop make him steel gears. Maybe its time to look into that. Merry Christmas Joe and to all the subs! And to Vinny too.
What about george, The baby.
And jade?
When testing things like the earth connection, you need to test it with a loaded circuit, such as using a test light, as this will show a poor connection better than just checking the resistance. For a heavier load use car headlight bulbs and make your own test kit.
You're spoiling everyone with all of these videos. An Odes! Awesome! Basically a Cf Moto.
Only 500 miles shouldn’t it still be under warranty? Least you should get free parts.
You’ll figure it out. Let your subconscious work on the problem for a little while.
Love your videos, have a happy holiday Joe.
Not if it I'd a repo.
Merry Christmas. Wish I could tell how much I use your wisdom. Keep up the awesome work.
Our boy Joe needs a cordless right angle impact stat!
Times like this a borescope would really help Joe.... Merry Christmas everyone!🎉
Starter is still slow, but it may have overheated and hurt the bearings for sure. Lack of oil and heat.
If that cam chain guide is worn bad enough the chain could still feel tight but it may be throwing it out of time during rotation so you have a valve not opening at the right time,just a thought.
Having a friend that works in the dealership really helps with finding those brand new projects. You’re getting quite the collection of SxS impressive indeed
I'm starting to think Massimo's quality is junk! I see more & more of their stuff breaking down!
I'll go get some popcorn for the next video. Same bat time same bat channel 😅
57:42 to 57:53 There is something visible that is rotating with the engine. However, keep watching after Joe quits cranking there is something else that sags down almost 1/2 inch. Look through the slot on the RHS of the area covered by the case he's removed
By the looks of it that has ran for a long time with no water pump or oil pump working! The engine must have been really hot for the chain guide to melt. I would say you should take the cams out and see if there is any damage to either of the cams or the journals they run in. If there is that engine is scrap and you should probably just look for an engine.
A $16k payment? Knowing dealers, he probably owed more than $20k after all the b.s. fees and bogus warranties they add on. Hopefully, it's just too high compression, making it crank slow, and it's an easy fix. Decompression mechanism, valves too tight, or timing adjustment might just fix her right up. Good luck. Btw, heated seats? Imagine that while ice fishing. I think this one would be a keeper for me because of the heated seats. Sell two others and keep this one. You might even be able to get your beautiful wife to come with you more often with heated seats.
Wish I could find those deals!! lol Merry Christmas!! Just a note, your voltage is not going be the same cranking as it is at rest. IF the problem is compression release, the starter is having to work harder than it normally would. Voltage will drop approximately 2 volts during cranking, up to 3 volts on the initial starter engagement IF everything is normal. If it is cranking slowly the FIRST thing to check is what the amperage draw is. The harder it is to crank, the higher the amperage draw, the more voltage it will use. Voltage and amperage reflect each other. It probably is the compression release, but remember it could also be the starter. IF the starter is worn out due to excessive cranking, the starter itself could be the cause of the excessive draw. Have a good one!!
You wouldn't want to they look good but they are rubbish....so badly made cheap shit
Nice I was just watching your old video on a $2500 Yamaha banshee! Keep it up 👍
You should watch a few videos from Pine Hollow auto diagnostics PAD, Ivan can show you some proper ways of testing for low draw ,voltage drop, you could benefit from investing in an amp clamp and making a couple of different amp rated test lights.
Merry Christmas! We'll be waiting for the next video.
Yeah looks like oil pump failure maybe due to a blocked mesh/oil filter,so the camchain giude melted & destroyed the plastic drives..I would strip & clean it anyway & see if theres anymore damage inside just to be safe..Ian..UK..
I think you're onto to something with the order in which the carnage happened. Oiling was the first to fail. Melted guides and gears are the result of no oiling.
Im thinking that it quit oiling and dried out the cylinder and the piston is dragging from lack of oil
I searched quick and immediately saw horror stories about this machine failing 50 diff ways with low low miles ... but you get to sit on a heated seat as you cry about the $18k loan thats still due 😢😢
Joe, your videos would be better if you sped up those portions where you loosen/tighten multiple fasteners on an assembly. Otherwise great job educating us. Merry Christmas!
no oil on the cam chain
edit, he gets to that
Have a good rest. Merry Christmas and keep up the good work in the New Year👍
I don’t hate that flip up front end design, makes it very nice for maintenance when everything is accessible. This one seems a little more well thought out than most china rigs.
Dang! Moss came along way, jeeze! 18k and all those fancy things, that's pretty impressive.
When I think of that brand, I think of those little $2500 jeeps.
Looks like $3000 worth of parts worst case scenario. I don't think you can go to wrong with that.
You sounded really disappointed that the starter looked perfect lol
Keep recovering buddy, IT IS YOUR JOB!
all the time I am screaming: "Pull the spark plug out and see how fast it cranks " !!!
From an anesthetic standpoint, this is a thing of beauty. Great score if you can figure her out. (Obviously, I haven't watched the video yet)
The first thing I would do is check that little pin for wear on the decompression mechanism. Then valve clearances. Wouldn't that be crazy if it was the same problem as a couple of videos ago? In fact, jump straight to setting the valves at 3/1000 and see what happens.
The name under the vin says it all lol.
They have came a long way with quality, I've have several side by side both Chinese and Polaris and the name brand has left me stranded more than my off market ones
500 miles no oil or water. Still have high compression. You can only assume bad bearings. But what caused gears to fail? You gotta go till you find cause, or risk it doing it again after putting all the work in. When things fail at 500 miles, could be as bad as motor being built out of specs? Should be some factory help in paying for Repair!!
It’s Chinese so good luck in that !,
The effect of a road beating before total break in. The lack of oil to that one cylinder is the main cause . The head looks a bit roasted and toasted .
Yo joe and fam!
Happy holidays
Frm CHICAGO
Merry christmas joe. You know what has to be done which sux. It's odd that starter only had 8-9 volts in the engine, must be a small short? But I hate to think the engine has been 🎄
The real Mystery Machine. Good luck Joe
$ 18000 is the price for a Car with heater, AC, windows, doors. not some half plastic open lawn chair lawn mower engine powered PoS....!
I would upgrade the battery and starter cables to a meatier gauge. There shouldn't be that much of a voltage drop with the properly sized cables. The starter could be defective. The fact that the battery cable insulation is melted shows high current draw. Is there an oiling spray bar for the cam chain?
Bingo I'm screaming that sounds like a bad starter all day
Sweet ass vids man, clever work, merry Christmas!
Been watching Joe for years but in the last few years his videos keep on coming he should well be on 1miln subs 👌 merry Xmas and new year when it comes 🎉to
I am surprised you didn't pay more attention to the dry valvetrain on that one cylinder. Hope valves weren't open when you cranked the motor with that cylinder timing chain off.
Good Luck and Merry Christmas 🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅
Disconnect the power to the starter from the solenoid and then check the voltage. The starter straining causes a voltage drop, that's why the reading is low when you were cranking it.
I feel bad for people who are spending $18,000+ on an UTV and even worse for those who spend over $41,000 (El Jefe RG Edition) only to think they can go through anything with them and watch them blow up, then have to try and get them fixed by the dealer who laughed all the way to the bank and has no intention of honoring the warranty.
Another cool and wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas 🎄and a Happy New Year 🎉 along with all the other subscribers enjoy the Holidays 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
on harley/ss engines they use electric decompression valves. start button energizes solenoid that opens a small valve in head which bleeds off compression while cranking. when engine starts release start button and compression closes the valve, i have no clue what type of system this machine has but i would think it has some type of decompression system. but... with no functioning water/oil pump..... i have very little hope the bottom end survived.
I was thinking the same thing. Harley starting using a electic solenoid type decompression valve, I believe with the 103 cid engines.
You are pumping them out, brother. Love it.
🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Two videos a week ain't pumping them out bro 😅
Well, hey there, shade guy.
He's been on a great run over the past couple of weeks. These hour-long episodes are great, and I'm sure they take a fair bit of work to crank out. Just throwing some gratefulness his way.
Merry Christmas, guy.
... it's been three episodes in the last 6 days....
Usually when u hear that little skip kinda sound when cranking its usually a motor problem. I heard it when u very first tried starting it for us. Try paying attention for that in Future.
There is an electrical fault somewhere because the thick cable insulation has melted. A large current was probably flowing through the wire before the fuses.The starter rotor touches the stator.The high current drags the rotor under load.The corrosion is visible on the stator.
Too much work needed to get done in one episode Joe not your fault happy Christmas from Warwick UK
What a piece of junk. The most critical part to protect the engine is made of plastic
Chinese junk 😂😂
Volt drop on power and earths, and amp draw on starter is port of call.
I could be wrong but I think the starter bad
Are you really surprised it broke down after 500 miles? It's made in CHINA!!!
As a European, if you asked me 5 years ago if I would be driving an American car today (or a Chinese for that matter) I would have died laughing, but here I am today driving a Tesla…
Honestly with those China jobs usually the engines are the only thing that last Just everything else falls apart around it. But then that's the Honda clones this is a whole new ball and chain.
@@SimonVA99 Awesome car! I recently rode in one and was blown away by the engineering and performance.
Looking forward to next video. Merry Christmas from Colin from Ireland.
A four brush starter is more powerful, it looks like they cheaped out using a two brush starter. Spin the oil pump with a drill to see if oil pumps up to the top end.
Always great content! Like getting a Christmas present early!
Check your camshafts, i think one of them (or both) have damage causing friction. One clue is the first cylinder you check compression cranking very slow.
Looks like the guy at the dealer knew the score. They have a certain margin to make it worth while, and if they spend more time than what that is, they can't waste it.
It does have a lot of fancy stuff on it. I see the list price for a new one is now $22,000.
Tight valves, compression release?I know that you will win!
Damn , a rare video where the problem isn't diagnosed and fixed by the end . I'll be looking for the follow-up video in the next week or so . Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and Happy NewYear !!!
Your battery may have a bad cell ck load drop with a dc multimeter. Going below 10 v is a good indicator while trying to start.good luck how old is battery put on load tester.
Heated seats and electric dump bed. Sweet!
And cameras! Front and back winches! This thing would be a great machine if it ran.
I waited the whole video hoping you would do this....The positive lead from the battery to solenoid. It's burnt. Could be huge voltage drop under load. I noticed you add the jump pak before this cable too. Replace that cable or add the jump pak directly to the solenoid eliminating the melted positive cable.
If you get this fixed it'll be a great work horse for your farm 👍
You can place a dial indicator in the spark plug hole with the piston at TD center and turn the crank back and forth by hand that will tell you how much play is between the bearing to crank and or connecting rod.
Try some MMO marvel mystery with ATF in both cylinders before tear down work it. In
Likely have light galling.
Nice work as always.
You should check vale adjustment . Sounds like decompression mechanism isn't engaged because of sloppy valve adjustment .
WTF with only 500 miles 😂😂😂😂
He did check valve clearances
@@AvocatDude I can't believe these heaps of shit need valves checking with 500 miles .....cheap Chinese Garbage
My Cf-Moto z800 has the same issue. The rod bearings are seizing. An oil cooler line got damaged and it wasnt realized by my son. 😢
We know that the engine got BEYOND hot. I say pull the engine and disassemble. With the quality level of the pieces we’ve seen used, there is no telling what may have happened inside. You wouldn’t think so, but warped metal pieces due to intense heat could be the issue. Closing tolerances inside may have galled cheap metal surfaces. Maybe it got hot, STARTED having some problems so they changed the oil. Once metal surfaces BEGIN to be affected it may have gotten worse AFTER changing oil. I think you’ll see blue rods and crap crank journals😢
Hook up positive first on starter, then touch to ground. No sparks your bolt that way.
You have many UTV's in your lot now lol ;P (may need to build a big shed or maybe put up a big army tent for them) love it. hi5
Seems like blown crank bearings.
Also see blow by at crankcase when you cranked it.
We dont hear knocking so rod bearings may be ok, but seems like crank is jamming in spun bearings.
Obvious oil starvation with that melted guide.
Turning a main bearing in casing
massimo does not make odes but they dod import them so they do have a hand in the odes line
It looks like an awful lot of electrical stuff for such a small battery. It must have an amazing charging unit.
Merry Christmas to you and your family brother love your videos . Sounds like some seeing bearings to me to .
voltage after the solinoid is less than 12 im sure even after the jumper, try going straight to the starter with true 12 vlts and see what happens
Chinesium!
Sounds exactly like my yfx450(bb). Oil pump stopped working. Ruined piston and crank. It's fixed now but had the same starting sound and symptoms