Great idea! I've heard of people doing this with a dryer vent or chimney brush too. Saw a guy use a leaf blower to blow out the channel when done as well. Saved a lot of time!
love the idea kid....love how our jeep community uses its ingenuity to come up up with shit that we never would think of using.....this is a winner of an idea...now if we could sub that spring wire for something as strong as flexible as a coat hanger?..someone invent that please
i sprayed linseed oil thinned with paint thinner after cleaning the frame inside and out. don't forget to drill drain holes at the low spots and plug the transport holes.
It is amazing how much mud and road debris builds up inside internal vehicle frames along with the rust. The manufacturers could do a lot more to make cleaning out these frames easier, but then if it lasted too long they would not sell enough new vehicles. The drain auger looks an excellent idea for loosening flakey rust especially if the frame rust is loosened by hammering on the outside as well.
Wow this will be a LOT easier than the pipe and cable method. Im doing my research so I dont have to go through the frustration you did. So thank you for going through that, and sharing with us! Ill be doing this to my dream car that I just picked up. A '94 Impala SS :) Ill use Eastwood internal frame coating inside, and Corroseal on the out.
Best to double check no electrical cables or pipes etc are inside first before running a drain snake auger up inside . A flexible borescope with a bright light is useful to see inside and check the internal state of the chassis frame. In the past I have tried hammering and trying to fish flakey rust out with a magnet and noose pliers through the holes but without this drain snake method I suspect a lot of wax oil rust preventer has never reached the internal frame and just sat on top of mud and flake rust inside the chassis. That is why so many vehicles rust from inside out despite having rust preventer sprayed on the outside.
It works pretty good for me. Definitely not prefect but not bad. I didn't show the hours after hours on me fishing out small flakes and dust out of there. Good luck bud!
I have yet to start. I am in the learning phase right now. I have a 10 year old Chevy Colorado. I am thinking about your Drain auger solution to crunch up the rust, followed by vacuuming it out with a rubber hose attachment. Last would be a magnet for bigger pieces. Originally I was going to remove the rear bumper, get chimney sweep poly rods and a 3" wire wheel brush. Trouble is, I don't know how I would attach the wire wheel to the rods. The wire wheels all have 1/4" stud coming out for the drill. the poly poles have threaded rods.
Yeah I was going to do the chimney sweep rods but they weren't flexible enough to go into the side of the frame. The Auger did a good job. I'm not sure what would be better than removing the real bumper. If I were to do it again I would remove a bumper and run the drain Auger all the way through and then slowly work backwards. It's all not going to be perfect but you got to do something you know. Good luck!
@@Romulan112 the Auger I used is a 1/4 inch cable. It had this twisted end to it. I bought it at lowes. For a drill attachment. You spin it one way and it will fly like nobody's business. Spin it the other way and it stay on. I just corkscrewed the chain onto the twisted end. Hopefully you have a visual lol
@@jones_edition I was using the auger/chain. it was doing ok until i switched the direction of the drill. I was doing it in reverse initially and changed to forward. thats when my troubles began. The chains all came off in my frame. I cant find them currently and am awaiting a magnet. I spent at least two hours with a scope to locate the missing chains. I found them and then lost visual.
@@jones_edition Yea, me too, but I saw the suggestion on a RUclips video today. I fabricated an adapter out of wood and gave it a try. Much better. Got a a lot of rust out of there that would have taken forever with a magnet. Just ordered some long blowers for my air compressor that can get in there also. I will be covering the inside of the frame with cosmoline. I have seen some bad reports on POR15 - tends to peal off after awhile. Also a borescope can be very useful to see how the inside is doing.... Oh, yea, and drill drain holes in the bottom of the frame, about every 6 inches where needed, provides access for the blower and cosmoline. (and as mentioned below, a place for the rust to fall out)
This method is better than not doing anything at all, offcorse, but it still isn't perfect, becouse the chain wont get into the corners becouse the frame is a square shape, not round. There should be better way of doing this. How about dry ice pressure blasting with a nossle that sprays 360 degrees ? Just a thought.. (sory for my bad english)
That looks like a great idea. Im going to run the snake through a pice of 6 foot pex. ( less kinks) gonna try 6 to 8 inches longer than the pex for try for some control.( fan action. Like the cord in a weedeater shorter might be better) I will make 4 holse if i have to. Damn fine idea. 👍
@@robboat6269 you are a smarter man than I! Good luck! Something is better than nothing. Hate that we all have the same issues to deal with... come on Jeep! Lol
I vacuumed the rust out, I taped a piece of rubber flexible hose to the end of the vac and sucked out so much rust it was crazy. Beats using water (which caused the issue to start with) or a magnet which would take days.
@@jones_edition Ouch! Thats a good idea for some of the big stuff. You probably want to get those out before you stick a small tube on the vacuum in there so it doesn't clog it up
Thanks for watching everyone!
Great idea! I've heard of people doing this with a dryer vent or chimney brush too. Saw a guy use a leaf blower to blow out the channel when done as well. Saved a lot of time!
love the idea kid....love how our jeep community uses its ingenuity to come up up with shit that we never would think of using.....this is a winner of an idea...now if we could sub that spring wire for something as strong as flexible as a coat hanger?..someone invent that please
Yeah it worked ok for me. But someone needs to get it figured out. Lol
i sprayed linseed oil thinned with paint thinner after cleaning the frame inside and out. don't forget to drill drain holes at the low spots and plug the transport holes.
Love it! I did drill new drain holes on the low spots. Thanks for the comment!
It is amazing how much mud and road debris builds up inside internal vehicle frames along with the rust. The manufacturers could do a lot more to make cleaning out these frames easier, but then if it lasted too long they would not sell enough new vehicles. The drain auger looks an excellent idea for loosening flakey rust especially if the frame rust is loosened by hammering on the outside as well.
It was better than nothing. It bothers me how bad the TJs get. Its like fighting an uphill battle. Good luck!
Wow this will be a LOT easier than the pipe and cable method.
Im doing my research so I dont have to go through the frustration you did. So thank you for going through that, and sharing with us!
Ill be doing this to my dream car that I just picked up. A '94 Impala SS :)
Ill use Eastwood internal frame coating inside, and Corroseal on the out.
Yes I always find the hard way to do things. Haha good luck with the impala
I just ended up rolling mine down Peavine mtn sideways. No more debris in my frame. The body is f’kd up but at least the frame is clean now.
Tj frames suck! Glad it's clean
Excellent !
Great improvisation, I'll definitely be doing this same thing before I spray NH Oil undercoating inside the frame.
It's not the best way in the world but it did the job for me. Just another idea in the books. Lol
Best to double check no electrical cables or pipes etc are inside first before running a drain snake auger up inside . A flexible borescope with a bright light is useful to see inside and check the internal state of the chassis frame. In the past I have tried hammering and trying to fish flakey rust out with a magnet and noose pliers through the holes but without this drain snake method I suspect a lot of wax oil rust preventer has never reached the internal frame and just sat on top of mud and flake rust inside the chassis. That is why so many vehicles rust from inside out despite having rust preventer sprayed on the outside.
Great information! Thanks for the comment!
I recommend you drill some hole next to the lower control arm bracket. That way water and small flakes of rust fall out easier
Yes I ended up doing that
I’ll try a air hammer from the outside and then the magnet and then a leaf blower
Yeah I think any thing that try and it works its great!
Good tip. I might need to do this after I get some frame rust patched up.
It works pretty good for me. Definitely not prefect but not bad. I didn't show the hours after hours on me fishing out small flakes and dust out of there. Good luck bud!
Have an idea of using a Chimney brush with a fleible rod attached to a drill, we'll see.
That might be a good idea. I would wonder if it would help break some of the rust up
Very cool idea. I need to do this on the XJ. Do you think it is worth taking the bumper off to get more access when cleaning out?
Yes i think so. Im going to take off the front bumper on the tj and see if it gets me more access.
lol you built it right you just used to small of a wire cable I did mine with pex also but used plastic coated 5/16 cable and and it worked fine
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback
I have yet to start. I am in the learning phase right now. I have a 10 year old Chevy Colorado. I am thinking about your Drain auger solution to crunch up the rust, followed by vacuuming it out with a rubber hose attachment. Last would be a magnet for bigger pieces. Originally I was going to remove the rear bumper, get chimney sweep poly rods and a 3" wire wheel brush. Trouble is, I don't know how I would attach the wire wheel to the rods. The wire wheels all have 1/4" stud coming out for the drill. the poly poles have threaded rods.
Yeah I was going to do the chimney sweep rods but they weren't flexible enough to go into the side of the frame. The Auger did a good job. I'm not sure what would be better than removing the real bumper. If I were to do it again I would remove a bumper and run the drain Auger all the way through and then slowly work backwards. It's all not going to be perfect but you got to do something you know. Good luck!
@@jones_edition How did you get the chain attached to the end? Also, what size is your auger cable?
@@Romulan112 the Auger I used is a 1/4 inch cable. It had this twisted end to it. I bought it at lowes. For a drill attachment. You spin it one way and it will fly like nobody's business. Spin it the other way and it stay on. I just corkscrewed the chain onto the twisted end. Hopefully you have a visual lol
@@jones_edition I was using the auger/chain. it was doing ok until i switched the direction of the drill. I was doing it in reverse initially and changed to forward. thats when my troubles began. The chains all came off in my frame. I cant find them currently and am awaiting a magnet. I spent at least two hours with a scope to locate the missing chains. I found them and then lost visual.
@@Romulan112 oh man! Sorry to hear that. They couldn't have gotten too far. I'm sure it will turn up.
I took a long bit and u-clamps and attached steel cable directly to the bit
Great idea!
Shop vac mated to some smaller clear tubing works much better than a magnet.
Yeah I never thought of that. I like doing things the hard way. Haha
@@jones_edition Yea, me too, but I saw the suggestion on a RUclips video today. I fabricated an adapter out of wood and gave it a try. Much better. Got a a lot of rust out of there that would have taken forever with a magnet. Just ordered some long blowers for my air compressor that can get in there also. I will be covering the inside of the frame with cosmoline. I have seen some bad reports on POR15 - tends to peal off after awhile. Also a borescope can be very useful to see how the inside is doing.... Oh, yea, and drill drain holes in the bottom of the frame, about every 6 inches where needed, provides access for the blower and cosmoline. (and as mentioned below, a place for the rust to fall out)
@@kf3en that's some good information! Thanks for the comment! I will be looking into this stuff!
@@kf3en What are the results? I am very interested
@@guusberkhof8429 See my project in progress at youtube channel 4runners
This method is better than not doing anything at all, offcorse, but it still isn't perfect, becouse the chain wont get into the corners becouse the frame is a square shape, not round. There should be better way of doing this. How about dry ice pressure blasting with a nossle that sprays 360 degrees ? Just a thought.. (sory for my bad english)
I like it! Anything better than nothing for sure. Jeep should be ashamed of the TJ frames!!!
This is an awesome idea
I worked pretty well. It's really hard to get it perfectly cleaned.
That looks like a great idea. Im going to run the snake through a pice of 6 foot pex. ( less kinks) gonna try 6 to 8 inches longer than the pex for try for some control.( fan action. Like the cord in a weedeater shorter might be better)
I will make 4 holse if i have to.
Damn fine idea. 👍
The snake will not get shorter like the cable it cant kink inside the pex like the cable.
@@robboat6269 you are a smarter man than I! Good luck! Something is better than nothing. Hate that we all have the same issues to deal with... come on Jeep! Lol
I vacuumed the rust out, I taped a piece of rubber flexible hose to the end of the vac and sucked out so much rust it was crazy. Beats using water (which caused the issue to start with) or a magnet which would take days.
Or weeks with a magnet like me. Good idea! Thanks for the information
Try this for getting out the debris after knocking it loose: amzn.to/386Y2rY
Dude where have you been all my life! I will be ordering soon! Lol thanks for the tip! I will give you a shout out if I use this in the future haha
@@jones_edition might have to tape it onto the end of the shop vac, but its the best thing I've found to get in there.....
@@dirtydavesgarage8251 its a great idea i fished out all that stuff with a small magnet for hours
@@jones_edition Ouch! Thats a good idea for some of the big stuff. You probably want to get those out before you stick a small tube on the vacuum in there so it doesn't clog it up
@@dirtydavesgarage8251 yeah for sure! I hope I was able to save a few more good years for the frame with my blood sweat and tears
I did buy a magnet from harbor China junk today
Yeah there are better ones out there, I'm sure of it.
Not to be mean, but next time less talking more demonstration. I want to see at least a handful or rust come out. A before and after.
Thanks