This is very pro :-) For a regular guy like me, without tools and stuff, something very simple worked: just removed the diesel with a little hose, then I turned the mower upside down on the grass to remove any diesel remaining in the tank. Next step was to LEAVE THE MOWER ON ONE SIDE for a while so any diesel in the carburator would come out. Then, added petrol, and... it started!!! Made a bit of smoke at first, but after a minute or so, it was fine.
So… on that carburetor where you took out the drainage plug screw 1:14, what is the lower screw for that’s on the very bottom ? It seems that there would still be a very tiny bit of fuel still left in there if this was not used to drain it. I’m sure I’m wrong, but maybe not…. but that’s why I’m asking. Thanks
Think that lower bolt is the one that secures the bowl to the carb. I removed the bolt on the side recently, that drained enough out of the carb (I had already drained the tank/feed pipe to the carb).
@@SaxJockeywould it be easier to turn the fuel tap off. Then run the mower till it stalls and runs out of the little bit of fuel and then remove the fuel line. Turn tap on again to drain the rest of the tank?
@@ciararespect4296Yes, you could do that...if the mower has a fuel tap. Mine does not, so I drained the tank, then the fuel bowl. This was in order to replace the blade. I have now bought a fuel shut off tap and extra pipework, and plan to install that soon. I then plan to close the tap near the end of each mowing session so as to run the carb dry (see reason below*). I have the option of draining the tank over winter. However, draining the tank and disposal of stale fuel is time consuming (bottle it up and take to the local recycling centre). I had success at the start of this season with a little of last year's fuel in the tank, topped up with good fresh fuel in spring. It if fails to start in the new season, a short spray of Carb Cleaner into the air inlet (filter off/cold engine) helps. *One failure mode is that the float/needle valve inside the carb can fail to close/seal (lots of vids on here). Fuel from the tank can then overfill the carb, causing fuel to enter the engine or/and flow out of the air vent within the carb (the vent is there to allow air to escape and let fuel flow in from the tank). Fuel leaking into the engine or on the floor is bad news.
This is very pro :-) For a regular guy like me, without tools and stuff, something very simple worked: just removed the diesel with a little hose, then I turned the mower upside down on the grass to remove any diesel remaining in the tank. Next step was to LEAVE THE MOWER ON ONE SIDE for a while so any diesel in the carburator would come out. Then, added petrol, and... it started!!! Made a bit of smoke at first, but after a minute or so, it was fine.
So… on that carburetor where you took out the drainage plug screw 1:14, what is the lower screw for that’s on the very bottom ? It seems that there would still be a very tiny bit of fuel still left in there if this was not used to drain it. I’m sure I’m wrong, but maybe not…. but that’s why I’m asking. Thanks
Think that lower bolt is the one that secures the bowl to the carb. I removed the bolt on the side recently, that drained enough out of the carb (I had already drained the tank/feed pipe to the carb).
@@SaxJockeywould it be easier to turn the fuel tap off. Then run the mower till it stalls and runs out of the little bit of fuel and then remove the fuel line. Turn tap on again to drain the rest of the tank?
@@ciararespect4296Yes, you could do that...if the mower has a fuel tap. Mine does not, so I drained the tank, then the fuel bowl. This was in order to replace the blade. I have now bought a fuel shut off tap and extra pipework, and plan to install that soon. I then plan to close the tap near the end of each mowing session so as to run the carb dry (see reason below*). I have the option of draining the tank over winter. However, draining the tank and disposal of stale fuel is time consuming (bottle it up and take to the local recycling centre). I had success at the start of this season with a little of last year's fuel in the tank, topped up with good fresh fuel in spring. It if fails to start in the new season, a short spray of Carb Cleaner into the air inlet (filter off/cold engine) helps.
*One failure mode is that the float/needle valve inside the carb can fail to close/seal (lots of vids on here). Fuel from the tank can then overfill the carb, causing fuel to enter the engine or/and flow out of the air vent within the carb (the vent is there to allow air to escape and let fuel flow in from the tank). Fuel leaking into the engine or on the floor is bad news.
@@SaxJockey can be a nightmare sorting clogged carbs out
You should do one on replacing the string on a strimmer. 😊
Depending on what kind of a strummer you have, You may be able to Convert it from a string trimmer to a blade trimmer; It’s a total game changer.