The short answer is elongation, which significantly impacts safety and efficiency in rescue situations. Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch under load, typically absorbing energy to protect climbers during a fall. However, this very stretch can be problematic in rescue scenarios. When you're hauling someone up, a dynamic rope can elongate by 6-10%, meaning a large portion of your effort goes into extending the rope rather than lifting the person. This reduces efficiency, making it harder to pull someone up safely and predictably. Lowering someone using a dynamic rope introduces even more risks. As the rope stretches under the weight of the person, it can cause unpredictable slack. This makes it difficult to control the descent smoothly, especially with the Munter Hitch, which is highly sensitive to changes in rope tension. If the rope elongates suddenly, it could lead to jerky movements or even cause the Munter Hitch to slip, compromising the safety of the person being lowered. Additionally, dynamic elongation can induce rope bounce, further destabilizing the operation and increasing the risk of an uncontrolled descent. In rescue situations, static ropes are preferred because they have minimal stretch (typically less than 2%), offering greater control, predictability, and precision. This is especially critical in technical rescues where smooth, controlled movement is essential to avoid further harm to the victim. The longer answer? 1. Minimal Stretch: Static Rope: Static ropes are designed to have minimal stretch (usually less than 5% under load), making them ideal for situations where precision and stability are required, such as hauling or lowering someone in a rescue scenario. Why it matters: In rescue operations, you want to avoid excessive stretching because it can lead to inefficient or dangerous handling of the load (the person being rescued). Minimal stretch ensures that all the force applied goes into lifting or lowering the person, giving you better control. 2. Efficiency in Hauling: Static Rope: Because static ropes don't stretch much, they are more efficient for hauling loads. Each time you pull, you move the load directly without wasting energy in the rope stretching. Why it matters: In rescue situations, especially when time is critical, you need every bit of your effort to translate into lifting or lowering the victim, which static ropes do better. 3. Predictable Performance: Static Rope: Static ropes offer consistent and predictable performance under load, which is essential when precision is needed, such as positioning someone safely or when mechanical advantage systems are used. Why it matters: When performing rescues, having predictable rope behavior makes it easier to manage complex systems like pulleys or prusik knots, ensuring smooth and controlled movement. 4. Dynamic Ropes are Designed for Fall Absorption: Dynamic Rope: Dynamic ropes are made to stretch significantly to absorb the shock from falls in climbing scenarios. This is crucial for protecting climbers in case of a sudden drop, but it can be detrimental in rescue scenarios. Why it matters: In a rescue operation, the last thing you want is a rope that stretches unexpectedly. If the rope stretches during a lowering operation, it can cause instability or even lead to a fall if it elongates too much. 5. Safety in Vertical Lifts: Static Rope: For vertical rescues or when you are lowering someone over an edge, static ropes provide a stable, consistent descent without the bouncing effect that a dynamic rope’s stretch can cause. Why it matters: In vertical situations, a bouncing rope could cause the victim or the rescuer to lose balance or control, making the operation riskier. Conclusion: In summary, static ropes provide better control, efficiency, and stability, which are essential in rescue and hauling operations where precision and safety are critical. Dynamic ropes, while excellent for absorbing shock in climbing, are not suited for these scenarios because their stretch can cause loss of control and make the rescue process less efficient.
Wow have you seen that Danny from Mediocre Amateurs virtually free climbed the Ragnarok VF in Norway, grade F said to be one of the hardest in Europe, an amazing feat of nerves and skill but not something you would recommend anyone else try with such an extreme risk...
I didn't fully checked the video. I will make time. He has something clipped. Not clear what. Statistically speaking nobody falls on Via Ferrata. Of course, nobody records the falls saved by the Via Ferrata Set. Hard to quantify their number. In the past three years I've witnessed five falls maybe of which two were fully on the Via Ferrata Set that did not deploy its shock absorber. A free climb is definitely possible given the help provided by the safety steel cable. Statistically speaking if you climb in within your limits a fall should only be probable in a low odd. Of course we cannot and nobody should recommend or advise such thing. In fact, Danny is rational and he at least uses some aid which will I crease his odds in case he slips or his arm force exhausts unexpectedly. We all take risks. Just different. His effort is amazing. His courage admirable. Sometimes pushing the boundaries is nothing more than part of DNA. The rules, the good practices are there to protect the many vulnerable and to help us live together in a safe, predictable society. I will make time and watch the full video. Great effort on his part.
I don't always carry with me as well. But then, having the knowledge helps when others to but don't know how to use it or most frequently, cannot do it for various reasons. I was last winter on the mountain winter mountaineering. A group of people, with just one guide. He needed help to be assisted with a Munter Hitch to then have all the climbers one by one assisted the same. Their rope, my know-how and assistance. It is good to be able to help and keep someone safe on the mountain.
Great information. 👍
Nice video! Only thing I am not sure is why the static rope, what would be the advantage in this case? I usually bring a 30m dynamic rope with me
The short answer is elongation, which significantly impacts safety and efficiency in rescue situations.
Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch under load, typically absorbing energy to protect climbers during a fall. However, this very stretch can be problematic in rescue scenarios. When you're hauling someone up, a dynamic rope can elongate by 6-10%, meaning a large portion of your effort goes into extending the rope rather than lifting the person. This reduces efficiency, making it harder to pull someone up safely and predictably.
Lowering someone using a dynamic rope introduces even more risks. As the rope stretches under the weight of the person, it can cause unpredictable slack. This makes it difficult to control the descent smoothly, especially with the Munter Hitch, which is highly sensitive to changes in rope tension. If the rope elongates suddenly, it could lead to jerky movements or even cause the Munter Hitch to slip, compromising the safety of the person being lowered. Additionally, dynamic elongation can induce rope bounce, further destabilizing the operation and increasing the risk of an uncontrolled descent.
In rescue situations, static ropes are preferred because they have minimal stretch (typically less than 2%), offering greater control, predictability, and precision. This is especially critical in technical rescues where smooth, controlled movement is essential to avoid further harm to the victim.
The longer answer?
1. Minimal Stretch:
Static Rope: Static ropes are designed to have minimal stretch (usually less than 5% under load), making them ideal for situations where precision and stability are required, such as hauling or lowering someone in a rescue scenario.
Why it matters: In rescue operations, you want to avoid excessive stretching because it can lead to inefficient or dangerous handling of the load (the person being rescued). Minimal stretch ensures that all the force applied goes into lifting or lowering the person, giving you better control.
2. Efficiency in Hauling:
Static Rope: Because static ropes don't stretch much, they are more efficient for hauling loads. Each time you pull, you move the load directly without wasting energy in the rope stretching.
Why it matters: In rescue situations, especially when time is critical, you need every bit of your effort to translate into lifting or lowering the victim, which static ropes do better.
3. Predictable Performance:
Static Rope: Static ropes offer consistent and predictable performance under load, which is essential when precision is needed, such as positioning someone safely or when mechanical advantage systems are used.
Why it matters: When performing rescues, having predictable rope behavior makes it easier to manage complex systems like pulleys or prusik knots, ensuring smooth and controlled movement.
4. Dynamic Ropes are Designed for Fall Absorption:
Dynamic Rope: Dynamic ropes are made to stretch significantly to absorb the shock from falls in climbing scenarios. This is crucial for protecting climbers in case of a sudden drop, but it can be detrimental in rescue scenarios.
Why it matters: In a rescue operation, the last thing you want is a rope that stretches unexpectedly. If the rope stretches during a lowering operation, it can cause instability or even lead to a fall if it elongates too much.
5. Safety in Vertical Lifts:
Static Rope: For vertical rescues or when you are lowering someone over an edge, static ropes provide a stable, consistent descent without the bouncing effect that a dynamic rope’s stretch can cause.
Why it matters: In vertical situations, a bouncing rope could cause the victim or the rescuer to lose balance or control, making the operation riskier.
Conclusion: In summary, static ropes provide better control, efficiency, and stability, which are essential in rescue and hauling operations where precision and safety are critical. Dynamic ropes, while excellent for absorbing shock in climbing, are not suited for these scenarios because their stretch can cause loss of control and make the rescue process less efficient.
Wow have you seen that Danny from Mediocre Amateurs virtually free climbed the Ragnarok VF in Norway, grade F said to be one of the hardest in Europe, an amazing feat of nerves and skill but not something you would recommend anyone else try with such an extreme risk...
I didn't fully checked the video. I will make time. He has something clipped. Not clear what.
Statistically speaking nobody falls on Via Ferrata. Of course, nobody records the falls saved by the Via Ferrata Set. Hard to quantify their number. In the past three years I've witnessed five falls maybe of which two were fully on the Via Ferrata Set that did not deploy its shock absorber. A free climb is definitely possible given the help provided by the safety steel cable. Statistically speaking if you climb in within your limits a fall should only be probable in a low odd.
Of course we cannot and nobody should recommend or advise such thing. In fact, Danny is rational and he at least uses some aid which will I crease his odds in case he slips or his arm force exhausts unexpectedly.
We all take risks. Just different. His effort is amazing. His courage admirable. Sometimes pushing the boundaries is nothing more than part of DNA. The rules, the good practices are there to protect the many vulnerable and to help us live together in a safe, predictable society.
I will make time and watch the full video. Great effort on his part.
I don't carry all that stuff so I would just call Rega or mountain rescue
I don't always carry with me as well. But then, having the knowledge helps when others to but don't know how to use it or most frequently, cannot do it for various reasons. I was last winter on the mountain winter mountaineering. A group of people, with just one guide. He needed help to be assisted with a Munter Hitch to then have all the climbers one by one assisted the same. Their rope, my know-how and assistance. It is good to be able to help and keep someone safe on the mountain.
@@JetSetYourself wow not a well trained guide