David R Lentz, USA Luca Cee, this is an excellent start to implementing an adaptation to modelling and diorama creation that includes replicas I have built. I often incorporate dynamic tableaux into my three-dimensional displays (a truck driver opens his left door of his Ford 9000 to resume her/his way down the interstate; a paramedic hurries out his/her Rescue SUV, her/his hand yet on the handle; a woman opens the trunk to retrieve her groceries; at the roadside winding through a wide expanse of the countryside, a scowling business executive in corporate grey cautiously raises the hood of his 1960s, red muscle car from which steam is pouring). Opening trunks, hoods, doors, side panels, etc., are a key element of this. To avoid scraping the outside surface of the panel (door, trunk lid, etc.) one wishes to retain undamaged, I suggest masking it with a length heavy-gauge tape (e.g., electrician’s, duct), setting the material as close to the gap as possible. If necessary, add a second atop the first.
Nice process on those hinges. To do my cuts, I use old xacto blades that I warm up with a lit candle. It avoids the scrape going off the line but the catch is you have watch the heat! Too much and you could warp the panel.
Always good to see shared techniques! I actually got my Tamiya Panel scriber because of your video. I used it on my USACC GTX deck lid! Keep ‘‘em coming’ my man! 😎👍🏾
Years ago I worked in the audio manufacturing industry. We built recording and sound reinforcement consoles. To straighten wire from rolls, two techs using pliers played tug of war with the wire. It was cut to length and installed in the bus assignment modules. In model building I use the same technique to straighten wire with a pair of pliers in each hand.
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO IN THIS SERIES.JUST CATCHING UP ON THEM NOW.A LOT OF GREAT TIPS. FOR THIS WONDERFUL HOBBY.I M LEARNING A LOT FROM YOUR GREAT CHANNEL.THANKS FOR KEEPING THIS HOBBY FUN.
I'm glad that I found this video! It has been years since I have cut open a body panel and I have totally forgotten how to make hinges! I never thought about using that heater hose tubing to get the hood to stay open. I have a build coming to my channel, when finished, where I am opening the trunk on it. I wanted to make sure that I remembered how to do it before I got to far into it... Thanks for the advice!
G'day Lucas, and a most excellent tip-vid on hindging and scribing hoods. As per usual. When you stripped the length of insulation cover off the wire, you made me realise something looking at the state of the wire with some covering removed. That would make a beautiful hydraulic arm. No painting needed. Just instal in place. Thanks for that Lucas. Take care.
G'day again Lucas, by the way, l would like to see how you do a cut-out door with interior panel. I've got a 1939 Chevy coupe, Revell kit, that's just screaming to have it's doors (suicide, maybe) opened and l'm not wishing to screw it up. Apreciate your work, thanks for doing what you do.
I want to see that too for my 59 El Camino. I imagine it’s quite similar but a bit more tricky because you have to cut the interior panels and fabricate the door jams and make it all fit right.
@@vladtheimpala5532 G'day Vlad, Dennis here. A 59 El Camino eh? Oh yeah, they've got a nicely laid out interior, and spacious. When you add a few personal improvements to that it would be a shame to hide it partialy. Those doors are long so it would give a very nice view of all the goodies and also make the kit stand out. Oh yeah. I've decided to go suicide doors on my Chevy because there's more workable area at the rear as compared to the front of the door frame. Also l think it will show the interior better. Good luck on your El Camino.
@@denniscoughlan685 I looked closely at my 59 El Camino kit and I think trying to make the doors open is a little above my current skill level. I haven’t built a model for years and I’m not confident that I could do all the fabrication required. I’d have to modify the interior a lot. The bench seat is molded into it so I’d have to cut it out, then do some fabrication so it would still have seats. I would also need to do some modifications up near the dashboard so I think I’ll just put it together with non opening doors. It seems like when I was building models before, most kits came with opening doors but maybe not. I have several kits that I haven’t started yet because I’m going to need to do some rearranging of my room to make a place for working on models. Maybe I’ll post some videos when I build them, although I doubt that I have anything to teach people about modeling. Anyway, good luck with your Chevy. Suicide doors are cool.
@@vladtheimpala5532 G'day Vlad, doors can be tricky. The good news is that there's already a groove moulded into the plastic to outline the doors. If you have a scriber then that's great, if not then you can use an xacto knife blade. Use the flat edge of the blade to follow the groove and keep the blade at a 45° angle then very lightly, so the blade is just resting on the plastic, slowly follow the groove from one end to the other (no stopping during this) about 8 to 10 times. This will deepen the grove enough to use the sharp edge tracing in the same manner. Be patient, it might take more passes with the flat edge. Now very lightly trace the line with the sharp edge slowly.....no stopping. This is the critical part because the blades are long and pointed and if you're not careful that blade will bend just enough to jump out of the channel and score the plastic around it. Now, very lightly, repeat the same motion with the sharp side a few times, well....maybe quite a few times. After a little while hold the plastic up to a light facing the outside and from the inside you will notice a visible line from the cut. Continue on this way and eventualy you will cut through. But go slow and never put too much pressure on the blade. If you do manage to score the plastic not to worry, a little buffing with steel wool will smooth it out. If the scoring is deep then thats when putty comes into play. Not too many people can pull this off without cutting into the outlying plastic so don't feel bad if you do. Just be patient, go slow and you'll get through nice and straight. You will be pleased. You can either glue it in the open position or hinge it like Luca did. I would imagine it's the same proccedure as how he did his trunk. Cutting the seats out should be easier because you're dealing with a 90° angle. Good luck.
Thanks for this video! I would be interested in seeing a video about making sure your interior tub fits with the hinges and on making the trunk compartment. Please and thank you.
good analogy with RR track. I would avoid cleaning with an exacto after removing panel, I sand or file instead. You can't put the material back so I avoid widening panel gaps as much as possible. great video, thanks for taking time to help
Luka Cee excellent tutorial, you did a tutorial on how to rust the underside of a car, I just remember nato black as one of the colors, you might want to do that tutorial series again, big hi to Felix.
If you do go out of the groove of a hood, trunk or door, cutting in the other direction can help eliminnate following that groove over the body and the guiding groove becomes a bump and it sill not change direction and make a new groove on the body panel. Care is needed and I would go nearly through the plastic in the area of the slip before completing that groove. The Tamayia cutter is similar to tools used for cutting plexiglass, basically a hooked blade that is pulled towards you.
I have some funky lines on the back of an r34 skyline boot/trunk any suggestions they are small and sharp turns, im new to this and practicing, slioped with scalpel a few times but got the hood off but the boot/trunk us so much harder. Great videos btw 👌
If you really want a good modeling knife then get the OLFA 9mm Stainless-Steel Utility Knife SVR-2. I have no affiliation with these nor do I receive any benefits by mentioning OLFA. I just like this knife and wanted to share the information with fellow modelers.
Excellent video! I like the heater hose tubing as it seems to hold the trunk lid up better. I saw a different video where the guy used a brass tube over the brass rod, but the trunk lid didn't stay up at all. The one thing I did like about his video, is that he would construct the hinges and line everything up BEFORE he cut out the panel, so as to ensure the panel lines back up with the body perfectly. Love your videos!!
Hey Luka Cee my name is Jerry and I'm seeking information on hinging the trunk on a 1971 oldsmobile cutlass 442 W30 I would like to hinge that deck lid but there's no back glass tray and I'm new to hinging and I was hoping you would have some tips for me on how to do this or maybe you could tell me whether it can even be done any tips or advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated thank you from a fellow modeler
Next checkup, ask your dentist if he has any dental scrapers that are worn out and are getting thrown away. They are still plenty sharp enough to scribe model car plastic.
Guide tape prevents gouging the body. Just buy some Dymo tape from an office supply store. It's the stuff they use in label makers. There's also brand called Dspiae that makes it specifically for hobbyists. They're easy to find online. I haven't built a car in years, and I find it funny how much disconnect there is between hobbyists. Go ask someone that builds Gundam and they will start listing all kinds of modern solutions, while lacking a lot of things that car or military modelers have been doing for decades. They're also easily impressed by things car builders expect like chrome plating and water slide decals. On the other hand car guys seem stuck in the same methods I learned back in the 90s when I started, and most of that was old already. I encourage all model builders to watch videos and tutorials for all kinds of models. There are tons of people missing useful and easy techniques because it just hasn't been a thing within their subculture of model building. I watch videos on trains, military armor, cars, gaming miniatures and Japanese mech stuff.
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This is almost exactly how it was shown in the old detail master book, it’s nice to see it done in video form. Thank you
I'm glad I couldn't sleep tonight. Started searching tutorials on RUclips and I'm glad I discovered this channel. 🎉 Subscribed directly 😁👍🏻
Welcome aboard and THANK YOU!
From time to time you sound a bit like Bob Ross...what makes your tutorials a pleasure to hear as well 😊
Wow, thanks! He is actually an inspiration of mine.
David R Lentz, USA
Luca Cee, this is an excellent start to implementing an adaptation to modelling and diorama creation that includes replicas I have built. I often incorporate dynamic tableaux into my three-dimensional displays (a truck driver opens his left door of his Ford 9000 to resume her/his way down the interstate; a paramedic hurries out his/her Rescue SUV, her/his hand yet on the handle; a woman opens the trunk to retrieve her groceries; at the roadside winding through a wide expanse of the countryside, a scowling business executive in corporate grey cautiously raises the hood of his 1960s, red muscle car from which steam is pouring). Opening trunks, hoods, doors, side panels, etc., are a key element of this.
To avoid scraping the outside surface of the panel (door, trunk lid, etc.) one wishes to retain undamaged, I suggest masking it with a length heavy-gauge tape (e.g., electrician’s, duct), setting the material as close to the gap as possible. If necessary, add a second atop the first.
Very nice tutorial. That is a very simple way to hinge things. The Pro Tech heater hose really makes a difference with the hinge. Thanks for sharing.
Pro Tech is great stuff.
Nice process on those hinges. To do my cuts, I use old xacto blades that I warm up with a lit candle. It avoids the scrape going off the line but the catch is you have watch the heat! Too much and you could warp the panel.
Always good to see shared techniques! I actually got my Tamiya Panel scriber because of your video. I used it on my USACC GTX deck lid! Keep ‘‘em coming’ my man! 😎👍🏾
Right on Clifton!👍
Years ago I worked in the audio manufacturing industry. We built recording and sound reinforcement consoles. To straighten wire from rolls, two techs using pliers played tug of war with the wire. It was cut to length and installed in the bus assignment modules. In model building I use the same technique to straighten wire with a pair of pliers in each hand.
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO IN THIS SERIES.JUST CATCHING UP ON THEM NOW.A LOT OF GREAT TIPS. FOR THIS WONDERFUL HOBBY.I M LEARNING A LOT FROM YOUR GREAT CHANNEL.THANKS FOR KEEPING THIS HOBBY FUN.
I'm glad that I found this video! It has been years since I have cut open a body panel and I have totally forgotten how to make hinges! I never thought about using that heater hose tubing to get the hood to stay open. I have a build coming to my channel, when finished, where I am opening the trunk on it. I wanted to make sure that I remembered how to do it before I got to far into it... Thanks for the advice!
That's brilliant. I've tried to make various types of hinges. This is what I have been aiming for. Thank you.
G'day Lucas, and a most excellent tip-vid on hindging and scribing hoods. As per usual. When you stripped the length of insulation cover off the wire, you made me realise something looking at the state of the wire with some covering removed. That would make a beautiful hydraulic arm. No painting needed. Just instal in place. Thanks for that Lucas. Take care.
Thanks. Nice clean look, not as difficult as I thought.
G'day again Lucas, by the way, l would like to see how you do a cut-out door with interior panel. I've got a 1939 Chevy coupe, Revell kit, that's just screaming to have it's doors (suicide, maybe) opened and l'm not wishing to screw it up. Apreciate your work, thanks for doing what you do.
I want to see that too for my 59 El Camino. I imagine it’s quite similar but a bit more tricky because you have to cut the interior panels and fabricate the door jams and make it all fit right.
@@vladtheimpala5532 G'day Vlad, Dennis here. A 59 El Camino eh? Oh yeah, they've got a nicely laid out interior, and spacious. When you add a few personal improvements to that it would be a shame to hide it partialy. Those doors are long so it would give a very nice view of all the goodies and also make the kit stand out. Oh yeah. I've decided to go suicide doors on my Chevy because there's more workable area at the rear as compared to the front of the door frame. Also l think it will show the interior better. Good luck on your El Camino.
@@denniscoughlan685
I looked closely at my 59 El Camino kit and I think trying to make the doors open is a little above my current skill level. I haven’t built a model for years and I’m not confident that I could do all the fabrication required. I’d have to modify the interior a lot. The bench seat is molded into it so I’d have to cut it out, then do some fabrication so it would still have seats. I would also need to do some modifications up near the dashboard so I think I’ll just put it together with non opening doors. It seems like when I was building models before, most kits came with opening doors but maybe not.
I have several kits that I haven’t started yet because I’m going to need to do some rearranging of my room to make a place for working on models. Maybe I’ll post some videos when I build them, although I doubt that I have anything to teach people about modeling.
Anyway, good luck with your Chevy. Suicide doors are cool.
@@vladtheimpala5532 G'day Vlad, doors can be tricky. The good news is that there's already a groove moulded into the plastic to outline the doors. If you have a scriber then that's great, if not then you can use an xacto knife blade. Use the flat edge of the blade to follow the groove and keep the blade at a 45° angle then very lightly, so the blade is just resting on the plastic, slowly follow the groove from one end to the other (no stopping during this) about 8 to 10 times. This will deepen the grove enough to use the sharp edge tracing in the same manner. Be patient, it might take more passes with the flat edge. Now very lightly trace the line with the sharp edge slowly.....no stopping. This is the critical part because the blades are long and pointed and if you're not careful that blade will bend just enough to jump out of the channel and score the plastic around it. Now, very lightly, repeat the same motion with the sharp side a few times, well....maybe quite a few times. After a little while hold the plastic up to a light facing the outside and from the inside you will notice a visible line from the cut. Continue on this way and eventualy you will cut through. But go slow and never put too much pressure on the blade. If you do manage to score the plastic not to worry, a little buffing with steel wool will smooth it out. If the scoring is deep then thats when putty comes into play. Not too many people can pull this off without cutting into the outlying plastic so don't feel bad if you do. Just be patient, go slow and you'll get through nice and straight. You will be pleased. You can either glue it in the open position or hinge it like Luca did. I would imagine it's the same proccedure as how he did his trunk. Cutting the seats out should be easier because you're dealing with a 90° angle. Good luck.
Heater tube is a great idea. I have been using the wire shield from landline phone wire. Its getting harder to find now.
Yes, I definitely learned something. Thanks man.
Thanks for this video! I would be interested in seeing a video about making sure your interior tub fits with the hinges and on making the trunk compartment. Please and thank you.
Cool tip for sure thanks for all your tip's 👍👍👍👍
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
good analogy with RR track.
I would avoid cleaning with an exacto after removing panel, I sand or file instead. You can't put the material back so I avoid widening panel gaps as much as possible.
great video, thanks for taking time to help
Thanks for watching.
Luka Cee excellent tutorial, you did a tutorial on how to rust the underside of a car, I just remember nato black as one of the colors, you might want to do that tutorial series again, big hi to Felix.
Excellent, EXCELLENT tutorial, brother, thank you 😁✌️
If you do go out of the groove of a hood, trunk or door, cutting in the other direction can help eliminnate following that groove over the body and the guiding groove becomes a bump and it sill not change direction and make a new groove on the body panel. Care is needed and I would go nearly through the plastic in the area of the slip before completing that groove. The Tamayia cutter is similar to tools used for cutting plexiglass, basically a hooked blade that is pulled towards you.
Great video !! Learned alot
Nice I like your way👍
Thank you so much 😀
Awesome video!! Thank you for demonstrating this.
I’m a wingy thing guy, but I could see doing something similar to make working flaps.
It would work for that, I'm sure.
I have some funky lines on the back of an r34 skyline boot/trunk any suggestions they are small and sharp turns, im new to this and practicing, slioped with scalpel a few times but got the hood off but the boot/trunk us so much harder. Great videos btw 👌
If you really want a good modeling knife then get the OLFA 9mm Stainless-Steel Utility Knife SVR-2. I have no affiliation with these nor do I receive any benefits by mentioning OLFA. I just like this knife and wanted to share the information with fellow modelers.
Absolutely love this video now you want to make me hinge my next couple cars how hard is it to do with Doors?
Sweet. Thanks for watching
If i get off track doing a panel, l just scribe 4-5 passes in the opposite direction, then switch back to the previous direction
Fantastic Tutorial Sir 🏆🏆 Thanks For Sharing n God Bless 👍 Gary.
Thanks for the assistance!
In HO scale, the way we prevent knife scars is to tape over adjacent detail. Buy a 100-pack and use SHARP BLADES.
Not too long ago I was searching through your videos looking how to do a Mini tub so maybe you should think about redoing that video.
Ok. That one isn't as old. I'll look into that. Thanks
I just thought it was a good video I learned a lot from it I've mini tub 2 of my model kits since I've watched it.
@@raymondwalker7281 now THAT'S cool! I like hearing that. Well reading...😁
Excellent video! I like the heater hose tubing as it seems to hold the trunk lid up better. I saw a different video where the guy used a brass tube over the brass rod, but the trunk lid didn't stay up at all. The one thing I did like about his video, is that he would construct the hinges and line everything up BEFORE he cut out the panel, so as to ensure the panel lines back up with the body perfectly. Love your videos!!
Hey Luka Cee my name is Jerry and I'm seeking information on hinging the trunk on a 1971 oldsmobile cutlass 442 W30 I would like to hinge that deck lid but there's no back glass tray and I'm new to hinging and I was hoping you would have some tips for me on how to do this or maybe you could tell me whether it can even be done any tips or advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated thank you from a fellow modeler
Do you any 57-60 ford f100 kits?
Next checkup, ask your dentist if he has any dental scrapers that are worn out and are getting thrown away. They are still plenty sharp enough to scribe model car plastic.
Guide tape prevents gouging the body. Just buy some Dymo tape from an office supply store. It's the stuff they use in label makers. There's also brand called Dspiae that makes it specifically for hobbyists. They're easy to find online.
I haven't built a car in years, and I find it funny how much disconnect there is between hobbyists. Go ask someone that builds Gundam and they will start listing all kinds of modern solutions, while lacking a lot of things that car or military modelers have been doing for decades. They're also easily impressed by things car builders expect like chrome plating and water slide decals. On the other hand car guys seem stuck in the same methods I learned back in the 90s when I started, and most of that was old already.
I encourage all model builders to watch videos and tutorials for all kinds of models. There are tons of people missing useful and easy techniques because it just hasn't been a thing within their subculture of model building. I watch videos on trains, military armor, cars, gaming miniatures and Japanese mech stuff.
Wow. You sound wonderful. You should start a You Tube channel. 😃👍
👍👍👍👍👍👍
AMT aluminum model toys.
3d printers made this Old and unneeded, I make hinges even fully working hood hinges...
Heat edge of blade up and let it melt way thru panel. Cuts thru like butter. All this scraping and sawing is nonsense