Woooooooooah another way to use the scales already carved into the lure. I love this texture along with the black base and pearl gold. The texture on the green scales less lure look's really cool I'm intrigued to say the least. I've learnt load's today by watching your videos thank you, I have a bad memory so I'll be watching them again.... That's my excuse lol. Another GREAT BIG THUMBS UP ALL DAY LONG, take care my friend 👍😷👍🏴
@@lureblanks That's the least I can do after you've spent so much time and money to make the video for me to watch and learn from. Plus how would you know if your video is getting the message across to the viewer if we didn't comment!
The 4030 is why the hot rod sparkle is more difficult to remove then just plain opaque white. Also switch from 4030 to 4050 and you will not regret it.
I did some research in the createx data sheets to find out what the difference is between 4030 and 4050. This comes straight from the data sheets: 4030 works best as a mix-additive for adding to Createx paints for improved performance when painting hard surfaces. UVLS Clears are a higher solids clear compared to 4030 and do not spray as well when mixed with Createx paints such as Wicked Colors, Illustration Colors and Createx Airbrush Colors. For candy2o, 4030 is the original carrier-medium for mixing with the concentrated candy2o dyes. 4030 still works well with candy2o for airbrush application, however for spray-gun application and when applying candy2o as a mid-coat over a metallic base, 4050 UVLS Gloss Clear is a better carriermedium. This means that 4050 is basically only good for those using candies with a spraygun. All other airbrush applications createx still suggests to use 4030. Just to clear things out and making sure we are giving the correct info here 😊 👍
That's really cool man love new ideas, maybe sometime you could do something with a piece of artist sponge. Same idea but different effect . Keep them coming bro.
Thanks James!! 😄 in this video I use it to finish the lure a little on the end. But maybe i should do one soon again, also using the sponges absorbing qualities to fade out and make more vague undercoats 👍 ruclips.net/video/IKFglab2LOU/видео.html
awesome looking lures! thank you for all the useful tips. new to the hobby and am having trouble finding larger/saltwater blanks. mind giving a source for them? looking for larger plugs to troll (behind kayak) and cast for jacks and king mackerel.
Thanks Joseph 😄 and haha no worries! It happens to more people. Because you are from the USA( and my store is EU) make sure to check with sugartit customs, backwater outfitting and cedarrunoutdoors. All 3 have great quality blanks and good service 👍 I am sure they would be happy to help!
Nice work! When you said that you have your airbrush set to a really high pressure, how high was it? When I turn the air pressure up past 35 or so, I seem to get lots of splatter and it goes under the stencil.
Thank you! I usually work with about 30-35 psi, holding the stencil down with my fingers and if necessary some painters tape is usefull too to avoid underspray 👌 or putting your lure flat on the table so you can hold your stencil better on it and pressing it down onto the body
This one was not coated before but because I made the back and belly lighter the foil line is not visible. If the foil line is really thick you can clear coat it, then sand down the lines and coat again to get a nice and even surface 👍
Why even spray through your airbrush onto the plastic? Just mix some up in a little plastic cup and lightly pour it on the plastic. Then use your other piece to dip? Saves you time and effort. You won’t have to clean out your airbrush. I’ve watched a couple videos where you’ve done that and every time, it doesn’t make sense. I paint and can’t come up with a reason for it
I get your point, and that does make more sense. I do not really know why I do it like that, it became a habit from the start 😄 but you are absolutely right it makes more sense to just mix a little in a cup or something 👍
Thanks Mark! Aah sorry man I have to have something on the background. My old gopro has a lot of distress sounds in the records. So i have to hide it with a little tune ☺ of course the tune is not everyone's cup of tea 😄
If you want to know how I make my stencils then make sure you have seen this video 👍 ruclips.net/video/chm3VQhORa4/видео.html
Woooooooooah another way to use the scales already carved into the lure. I love this texture along with the black base and pearl gold. The texture on the green scales less lure look's really cool I'm intrigued to say the least. I've learnt load's today by watching your videos thank you, I have a bad memory so I'll be watching them again.... That's my excuse lol.
Another GREAT BIG THUMBS UP ALL DAY LONG, take care my friend 👍😷👍🏴
Thank you so much!! Really appreciate it you take the time to write a comment 🙏!
@@lureblanks That's the least I can do after you've spent so much time and money to make the video for me to watch and learn from. Plus how would you know if your video is getting the message across to the viewer if we didn't comment!
The 4030 is why the hot rod sparkle is more difficult to remove then just plain opaque white. Also switch from 4030 to 4050 and you will not regret it.
That's totally true 😅 I forgot about the 4030. Can you explain me why 4050 is better?
I did some research in the createx data sheets to find out what the difference is between 4030 and 4050. This comes straight from the data sheets:
4030 works best as a mix-additive for adding to Createx paints
for improved performance when painting hard surfaces. UVLS
Clears are a higher solids clear compared to 4030 and do not
spray as well when mixed with Createx paints such as Wicked
Colors, Illustration Colors and Createx Airbrush Colors.
For candy2o, 4030 is the original carrier-medium for mixing
with the concentrated candy2o dyes. 4030 still works well
with candy2o for airbrush application, however for spray-gun
application and when applying candy2o as a mid-coat over a
metallic base, 4050 UVLS Gloss Clear is a better carriermedium.
This means that 4050 is basically only good for those using candies with a spraygun. All other airbrush applications createx still suggests to use 4030.
Just to clear things out and making sure we are giving the correct info here 😊 👍
That's really cool man love new ideas, maybe sometime you could do something with a piece of artist sponge. Same idea but different effect . Keep them coming bro.
Thanks James!! 😄 in this video I use it to finish the lure a little on the end. But maybe i should do one soon again, also using the sponges absorbing qualities to fade out and make more vague undercoats 👍 ruclips.net/video/IKFglab2LOU/видео.html
@@lureblanks oh man your right you did use the sponge in a video cool forgot you did that one
That is awesome !!!!
Thanks! 😄
Nice!
Thank you so much! 🙏
Sometimes I use small bubble bubble wrap for my applicator instead of plastic wrap. Even on non-scaled bodies it leaves the bubble pattern spacing
Thats a great tip too! Thanks for sharing!
awesome looking lures! thank you for all the useful tips. new to the hobby and am having trouble finding larger/saltwater blanks. mind giving a source for them? looking for larger plugs to troll (behind kayak) and cast for jacks and king mackerel.
cancel that. im an idiot
Thanks Joseph 😄 and haha no worries! It happens to more people. Because you are from the USA( and my store is EU) make sure to check with sugartit customs, backwater outfitting and cedarrunoutdoors. All 3 have great quality blanks and good service 👍 I am sure they would be happy to help!
Nice work! When you said that you have your airbrush set to a really high pressure, how high was it? When I turn the air pressure up past 35 or so, I seem to get lots of splatter and it goes under the stencil.
Thank you! I usually work with about 30-35 psi, holding the stencil down with my fingers and if necessary some painters tape is usefull too to avoid underspray 👌 or putting your lure flat on the table so you can hold your stencil better on it and pressing it down onto the body
Looks good, does that lure float ?
Thank you, it a sinking glidebait 👍
How do you hide the foil line underneath and above the lure??I'm struggling to hide mine...do you coat with epoxy and paint ??
This one was not coated before but because I made the back and belly lighter the foil line is not visible. If the foil line is really thick you can clear coat it, then sand down the lines and coat again to get a nice and even surface 👍
where do you get that lure holder?
It's called a helping hand. You can find them online in various shops or in big warehouses 👌
Where you get holographic foil from?
Hi Marcin, These come in pre-foiled and the foil is not available separately 😉 it is a heatpressed foil you can find in many places 👍
Why even spray through your airbrush onto the plastic? Just mix some up in a little plastic cup and lightly pour it on the plastic. Then use your other piece to dip?
Saves you time and effort. You won’t have to clean out your airbrush. I’ve watched a couple videos where you’ve done that and every time, it doesn’t make sense. I paint and can’t come up with a reason for it
I get your point, and that does make more sense. I do not really know why I do it like that, it became a habit from the start 😄 but you are absolutely right it makes more sense to just mix a little in a cup or something 👍
@@lureblanks don’t worry, I do a lot of stuff that doesn’t make sense too. Whether it’s painting lures or just in every day life 😂
Good video but please ditch that really annoying background 'music'
Thanks Mark! Aah sorry man I have to have something on the background. My old gopro has a lot of distress sounds in the records. So i have to hide it with a little tune ☺ of course the tune is not everyone's cup of tea 😄