If you like this video, I would be very grateful if you comment and subscribe. It would make me very happy and support me, so I can make more videos and develop this channel. Thank you. ❤
I have been sewing this same pattern for a few years but only now found your tutorial. I am definitely not as exact with measuring it out. For the front and back panels, I simply take half the fabric width (my linen comes in 60 inch wide - about 152 cm). I also do not taper my sleeves. I use them under skirts and buttoned sweaters and as sleeping gowns. I am glad to see someone use the same pattern. I have not tried to pleat it the way that you have, thank you for the new idea! The embroidery is a very nice touch as well. Thank you!
Ah, the joy of the algorithm - so glad it recommended this for me! Love the detailed explanation of the pleats & smocking, and thank you so much for including your research; it gives me a solid starting point for my own. Subscribed, of course - looking forward to seeing more from you. Oh, and the dress is delightful!
The algorithm is like an ancient god - you make sacrifices to him, you do everything to make him happy, and he will either bestow his grace on you or you will die at the bottom, forgotten by the whole world. ;) I am very pleased that this film has been graciously noticed by him. :) Thank you for subscribing and your kind words. P.S. Viking boots are on their way. :)
Looking for apron dressmaking and now I am down this Viking rabbit hole. This video was delightful and well done. I wasn't even looking for a kirtle pattern idea but now I am further inspired. Thank for all the hard work in making this.
Before the apron dress, I have a couple of other designs to finish / do, but I promise the apron dress will show up. As for the Viking stuff, shoes are first in line - if it goes well, the movie will be released around January / February.
I’m rewatching this as I contemplate making a thing, and just realized how you broke the video into sections so I can easily find the different construction elements. Fantastic! helpful! Hey algorithm, promote this video to all the history bounding viewers, they will be delighted!
This is a beautiful garment! When I have collected a little bit more skill and knowledge in dressmaking, I would love to go for a pleated dress. But I'm still working on my second dress and only to be the first linen dress (the other is woolen and didn't need so much hemming such as linen). Those pleats look like a proper challenge! Very well done and so beautiful! Thank you for taking us with you on your dressmaking journey.
I loved that you showed when things didn’t go as planned. Thank you for sharing…I just LOVE the woodlands footage the garment on you looks amazing. Do you have a clip on the head wrap as well…how to make and tie it? Looks fabulous.
Thank you. :) The head wrap is a simple, square scarf made of silk, folded in half and tied first over the nape of the neck, and then over the forehead.
Thank you so very much for sharing this. Thank you for for including the changes you had to make. It's very impressive, and I so enjoyed seeing your research and skill. What a beautiful garment.
This is great! Really enjoyed the historical references in the beginning and the final result looks lovely. My only slight nitpick is that the pleats on your dress don't quite seem to match the pleats in the historical depictions you showed, where they're quite clearly defined throughout the entire length of the dress. My guess (but I don't really know anything about Viking fashion and how it was made - just going off the visuals) would be that the pleats weren't just created by gathering the fabric at the top and letting it hang loose but by actually setting them into the fabric before sewing the garment. For example by tightly gathering the fabric down its entire length, wetting it and letting it dry or steaming it (which, they may not have had irons but they had fire and water so steaming fabric would've been well within their capabilities), then removing the gathering stitches.
If you look at the third picture in the research chapter, you'll see that on the linen dress the pleats were only on the top. I think, it would be insanely difficult to maintain the pleating on linen while washing. It could be done on the wool. Maybe the pleats down the entire length were on woolen dresses?
I arrived at your page late, apparently 2 years post date of video. I enjoyed this, your work is superb and fun to watch. One question, not critical, only for reference if I make a dress myself, are the sleeves longer than intended? Thank you. Next for me, to watch your other videos.
Have you considered that the pleats were woven into the fabric? By alternating twill stripes, or over-spinning the weft threads, or denting and spacing, you can weave fabric that sets its own pleats. It was definitely done in Egypt, and i keep looking for it in european weaving. I’ve had some success with weaving self-pleating wool, and i’m starting in on some linen test pieces. Right now i’m over-twisting linen threads on my spinning wheel.
Maybe I would consider this, but I think they would say something about this describing the findings. They say nothing about that kind of woving... : urd.priv.no/viking/serk.html#ev-pskov
@@helliruna I’ve actually been giving this a lot of thought. One solution suggested by Nille Glaesel is supplemental weft threads. If one uses a fine linen thread in the weft every cm or so, one can pull it tight to create pleats. Over time the linen would rot out, leaving what would look exactly like stitch markings. I’ve had good success making fine pleats this way, and throwing a shuttle with linen is a lot faster and more even than stitching in pleats.
@@gigartina Indeed, I agree, but do you think that linen would rot out of linen only in that supplemental weft threads? Linen is a very stubborn fabric, and it doesn't want to stay in one, imposed form - how permanent is this solution? I'm very curious, did you try to wash this kind of fabric in a hot water, and how did those pleats look after that?
Nice dress and GREAT video. (I fit my garments with a running stitch, and don’t backstitch my seams until I know I have it right. Of course, I learnt to do this because of making mistakes.)
Thank you very much. :) I would probably do so (because my grandmother thaugt me to), sewing more complicated garment, but this dress doesn't need much fitting. ;)
Thank you for this video! It seems difficult to find much viking inspired dresses out there in the history bounding community. My father is from England 🇬🇧, so I am half English. I have to move from the south to Massachusetts soon, for a super rare terminal autoimmune disease, as the onky doctor who treats it, is there. It is very cold up north, and I want to make dresses of varying thicknesses of linens cottons and wools. I will have to have several surgeries on my stomach, and my abdominal and kidney pain increases as my disease is progressing and pants are more and more uncomfortable to wear. So, I'd like to make lots of historically inspired dresses to wear and layer. Plus, one of the few benefits of never working again is, I can wear whatever I want! I plan to never buy clothing again. I only want to hand make, or upcycle my clothing from now on. 💙 oh and some nuno-felted with wools and silks as well!
Thank you very much. 😊 I've waited a long time for this shirt, and it's some kind of memento of an old freindship and a "dream come true at last" for me. 😉
Haithabu (german)/Hedeby (danish) is not in Denmark today. It’s in the very north of Germany, about 40 km away from the danish border. Once upon a time the part of Germany north of Hamburg was danish, at other times the Duke of Schleswig-Holstein was the danish king in personal union, but Schleswig-Holstein itself belonged to the German Reich. After World War 1 the very north went forth and back, it‘s a complicated history. Therefore some villages have german and danish names.
I went to your article, and it is so thorough; perhaps you are close to a scholarly degree? I would purchase this as a pattern if you had it for sale because it is so beautiful. Thank you.
Thank you, but unfortunately this is not my article. Historical reenactment is only my hobby - I'm an interior architect. ;) And the pattern... It is so easy, only rectangles, and triangles, it's hard to make is as a pattern - maybe, if you send my your measurments I could draw something pattern like for you?
I wouldn't have minded a bit more close-ups on the finished garment features while it was being worn. The full-length images of you moving as you wore it were lovely, but I really had no clue, even on my largest screensize viewing, what it actually *looked* like at cuffs, armholes, neckline, etc. Especially since it seems like most of the time you were facing away from the camera, or sideways. It looks nice, but it wasn't as helpful as it could've been.
Agree. It looks lovely but would really like to have seen some close ups of the front of the bodice as it was being worn, same for the cuffs and the top of the sleeves. Many thanks for a great video.
Did you turn on the subtitles? There's more information there. The width of the dress is the original width of the fabric (approx. 140 cm) reduced to the maximum width that could be obtained on the looms of the time - approx. 80 cm. The two rectangles for the sleeves are leftovers from the width of the original fabric.
love the video. Question, ive see u like other viking age reconstruction sewers pulling a tread but with tabby woven linen, wool why not rip instead? Is there evidence shears were used to cut long pieces of fabric in viking age?
@antinn7448 Linen is not cotton, it cannot be torn so easily. Wool is a completely different story. The Vikings had shears, so why wouldn't they use them? The look and shape of women's clothing is our interpretation of very small scraps of fabric.
Hi - I'm confused, the findings lookedlike the neckline had a drawstring pulled tight resulting in the 'smocking' - was it sewed down smocking like you did intead? Thank you in advance!
It is hard to say anything with certainty when you have such an old finding, but - fragment of Pskov serk neckline description: "... After the complete disassembling of the block of soil with the remains of textiles, 11 elements of clothing made of linen and silk textiles were identified. Their careful examination allowed us to suggest the presence of an ensemble of a female garment consisting only of two articles. These two were both sewn from thin blue linen. The first is an underdress to which details nos. 3, 5, 7 and 10 may be related. The two latter are the remains of a collar, which was turned inside out along the edge of its neck, cut out and gathered in fine pleats. In front, there was an upright slit in the middle. The folds were fixed with a thin band, which pulled together the edges of the collar." Zubkova et. al. 2010, p. 297 "...The pleats are gathered by a thread and then fixed permanently by stitching them to a thin linen band. The band acts as a closure for the serk, allowing it to be tied closed at the neck. " (Orfinskaya and Pushkina 2011, p. 48, Orfinskaya 2014, p. 263). Please check this article: urd.priv.no/viking/serk.html#ev-pskov
@@helliruna Oh, thank you! That's really helpful of you to share with me :) So as far as is known, drawstring smocks/underdresses weren't really used until around 15th century? That's the earliest I've found patterns for. If know of any smocks or underdresses much before the 1400's with drawstring necklines and/or sleeve cuffs, I'd be interested to know. :) Thank you Again for taking the time to reply to me, that was very generous.
Neither this nor that. The false seam split the gore only optically, so that the outfit looked symmetrical (like the gore from the other side of a dress), even though the material in this place was not cut and sewn.
If you like this video, I would be very grateful if you comment and subscribe. It would make me very happy and support me, so I can make more videos and develop this channel. Thank you. ❤
I have been sewing this same pattern for a few years but only now found your tutorial. I am definitely not as exact with measuring it out. For the front and back panels, I simply take half the fabric width (my linen comes in 60 inch wide - about 152 cm). I also do not taper my sleeves. I use them under skirts and buttoned sweaters and as sleeping gowns. I am glad to see someone use the same pattern. I have not tried to pleat it the way that you have, thank you for the new idea! The embroidery is a very nice touch as well. Thank you!
I've been sewing for 18+ years and this is the first time I've see measured pleats done this way. I learned something new! Thanks a bunch!
Ah, the joy of the algorithm - so glad it recommended this for me! Love the detailed explanation of the pleats & smocking, and thank you so much for including your research; it gives me a solid starting point for my own.
Subscribed, of course - looking forward to seeing more from you. Oh, and the dress is delightful!
The algorithm is like an ancient god - you make sacrifices to him, you do everything to make him happy, and he will either bestow his grace on you or you will die at the bottom, forgotten by the whole world. ;) I am very pleased that this film has been graciously noticed by him. :) Thank you for subscribing and your kind words.
P.S. Viking boots are on their way. :)
@@helliruna Ooh, boots, brilliant!
Looking for apron dressmaking and now I am down this Viking rabbit hole. This video was delightful and well done. I wasn't even looking for a kirtle pattern idea but now I am further inspired. Thank for all the hard work in making this.
Before the apron dress, I have a couple of other designs to finish / do, but I promise the apron dress will show up. As for the Viking stuff, shoes are first in line - if it goes well, the movie will be released around January / February.
And thank you for your kind words. ❤
i loved the music choices throughout the video. :)
Thank you. It is always a lot of work and pleasure at the same time. :)
I’m rewatching this as I contemplate making a thing, and just realized how you broke the video into sections so I can easily find the different construction elements. Fantastic! helpful! Hey algorithm, promote this video to all the history bounding viewers, they will be delighted!
And I am humbled by your kind words. 😏❤
This is a beautiful garment! When I have collected a little bit more skill and knowledge in dressmaking, I would love to go for a pleated dress. But I'm still working on my second dress and only to be the first linen dress (the other is woolen and didn't need so much hemming such as linen). Those pleats look like a proper challenge! Very well done and so beautiful! Thank you for taking us with you on your dressmaking journey.
Thank you very much. :)
I mostly see men recreating clothing. I like getting ideas for my daughter and I to try. She's almost 9 and learning to sew :)
Beautiful work, and I love the aesthetic of the footage in the woods 😍
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Glad you turned up in my feed. Look forward to seeing your future projects. 😊
Thank you very much. :) Hope to see you soon. :)
Subscribed because you need to get your gorgeous work out there!
Thank you, you're so kind. :)
I loved that you showed when things didn’t go as planned. Thank you for sharing…I just LOVE the woodlands footage the garment on you looks amazing. Do you have a clip on the head wrap as well…how to make and tie it? Looks fabulous.
Thank you. :) The head wrap is a simple, square scarf made of silk, folded in half and tied first over the nape of the neck, and then over the forehead.
Thank you so very much for sharing this. Thank you for for including the changes you had to make. It's very impressive, and I so enjoyed seeing your research and skill. What a beautiful garment.
Thank you. It is very important to me that I feel supported and that I know I can work on the next projects. :)
Awesome video! Loved all the historical facts and loved seeing the sewing. The editing was really good especially all the forest scenes.
Thank you very much. :) I hope the other ones will be as good. :)
For the algorithm. It turned out lovely!
Thank you. :)
its a work of art
You are very kind. Thank you. :)
I wanna make one now! I think my next project is going to be something like this! Very very well done!
Thank you very much. ❤ And fingers crossed. 😊
OMG! I want a voodoo doll pincushion! Lovely video, too!
My old friend always by my side. ;)
This is so beautiful
I'm in awe
Will definitely be a future project for me
Sure I'll be dreaming of it til it's finished
This is great! Really enjoyed the historical references in the beginning and the final result looks lovely. My only slight nitpick is that the pleats on your dress don't quite seem to match the pleats in the historical depictions you showed, where they're quite clearly defined throughout the entire length of the dress. My guess (but I don't really know anything about Viking fashion and how it was made - just going off the visuals) would be that the pleats weren't just created by gathering the fabric at the top and letting it hang loose but by actually setting them into the fabric before sewing the garment. For example by tightly gathering the fabric down its entire length, wetting it and letting it dry or steaming it (which, they may not have had irons but they had fire and water so steaming fabric would've been well within their capabilities), then removing the gathering stitches.
If you look at the third picture in the research chapter, you'll see that on the linen dress the pleats were only on the top. I think, it would be insanely difficult to maintain the pleating on linen while washing. It could be done on the wool. Maybe the pleats down the entire length were on woolen dresses?
I love the dress! Thank you for sharing!
Algorithmic support
Thank you. ;)
@@helliruna you are welcome 🙂🌼
very beautiful indeed.
Thank you. :)
Thank you for the video! I appreciate the careful marking of timestamps for future reference.
Thank you. All of your sugestions are very valuable to me.
I arrived at your page late, apparently 2 years post date of video. I enjoyed this, your work is superb and fun to watch. One question, not critical, only for reference if I make a dress myself, are the sleeves longer than intended? Thank you. Next for me, to watch your other videos.
The sleeves are longer, as intended. :) So thet can be smocked.
Love the smocking details!
This is amazing and I am so excited to see more from your channel!
Thank you.
Have you considered that the pleats were woven into the fabric? By alternating twill stripes, or over-spinning the weft threads, or denting and spacing, you can weave fabric that sets its own pleats. It was definitely done in Egypt, and i keep looking for it in european weaving. I’ve had some success with weaving self-pleating wool, and i’m starting in on some linen test pieces. Right now i’m over-twisting linen threads on my spinning wheel.
Maybe I would consider this, but I think they would say something about this describing the findings. They say nothing about that kind of woving... : urd.priv.no/viking/serk.html#ev-pskov
@@helliruna I’ve actually been giving this a lot of thought. One solution suggested by Nille Glaesel is supplemental weft threads. If one uses a fine linen thread in the weft every cm or so, one can pull it tight to create pleats. Over time the linen would rot out, leaving what would look exactly like stitch markings. I’ve had good success making fine pleats this way, and throwing a shuttle with linen is a lot faster and more even than stitching in pleats.
@@gigartina Indeed, I agree, but do you think that linen would rot out of linen only in that supplemental weft threads? Linen is a very stubborn fabric, and it doesn't want to stay in one, imposed form - how permanent is this solution? I'm very curious, did you try to wash this kind of fabric in a hot water, and how did those pleats look after that?
Oh I love the pleats
Thank you. :)
Nice dress and GREAT video.
(I fit my garments with a running stitch, and don’t backstitch my seams until I know I have it right. Of course, I learnt to do this because of making mistakes.)
Thank you very much. :) I would probably do so (because my grandmother thaugt me to), sewing more complicated garment, but this dress doesn't need much fitting. ;)
Thank you for this video! It seems difficult to find much viking inspired dresses out there in the history bounding community. My father is from England 🇬🇧, so I am half English. I have to move from the south to Massachusetts soon, for a super rare terminal autoimmune disease, as the onky doctor who treats it, is there. It is very cold up north, and I want to make dresses of varying thicknesses of linens cottons and wools. I will have to have several surgeries on my stomach, and my abdominal and kidney pain increases as my disease is progressing and pants are more and more uncomfortable to wear. So, I'd like to make lots of historically inspired dresses to wear and layer. Plus, one of the few benefits of never working again is, I can wear whatever I want! I plan to never buy clothing again. I only want to hand make, or upcycle my clothing from now on. 💙 oh and some nuno-felted with wools and silks as well!
Good luck and lots of health.
I love your pin cushion 😉
Thank you. :) I like it too. ;)
I loved the video, love the dress...need the pin cushion! Where O where can it be found?
Thank you. :) The doll was a gift, but you can found one when you look for "ex lover voodoo doll".
Ahhh those pleats are so satisfying, well done! x
Just beautiful !! Very reIaxing as well 😍😍.. I sub!
Thank you. :)
Fabulous creating!
I now feel the urge to make this.
Thank you for this. And yes, I subscribed, looking forward to more projects.
Thank you. :) I hope viking shoes will be soon.
excellent work thanks for showingb us how
You have the best pin cushion
Two birds in one stone... ;) :P
@@helliruna where did you get it at? It’s pretty awesome.
@@orangenote2 , it was a gift. :)
This video was very beautifully done! Keep up the good work. I really enjoyed it
P.S. Your damselfly in distress shirt is hilarious! 🤣
Thank you very much. 😊 I've waited a long time for this shirt, and it's some kind of memento of an old freindship and a "dream come true at last" for me. 😉
Haithabu (german)/Hedeby (danish) is not in Denmark today. It’s in the very north of Germany, about 40 km away from the danish border. Once upon a time the part of Germany north of Hamburg was danish, at other times the Duke of Schleswig-Holstein was the danish king in personal union, but Schleswig-Holstein itself belonged to the German Reich. After World War 1 the very north went forth and back, it‘s a complicated history. Therefore some villages have german and danish names.
Very nice
Thank you. :)
Beautiful.
you look so lovely in this dress. I am a new subscriber and loving it.
Piekna 🥰
Yayy squirrel bonus! :)
Actually it’s a marten bonus. 😉
This whole video was beautifully done
Thank you so much. :)
subscribed❤️ excited to see more from you, loved the video :)
Thank you very much. :)
I went to your article, and it is so thorough; perhaps you are close to a scholarly degree? I would purchase this as a pattern if you had it for sale because it is so beautiful. Thank you.
Thank you, but unfortunately this is not my article. Historical reenactment is only my hobby - I'm an interior architect. ;) And the pattern... It is so easy, only rectangles, and triangles, it's hard to make is as a pattern - maybe, if you send my your measurments I could draw something pattern like for you?
@@helliruna Oh, I missed the authors name... I'll give it a try making it myself and if I fail I'll get back to you. Thanks for a great video!
@@CM-xn6xc Good luck! :)
Very thorough, thank you! Just subscribed
Thank you. :)
Beautiful!!!!❤
Thank you :)
Love this!
I wouldn't have minded a bit more close-ups on the finished garment features while it was being worn. The full-length images of you moving as you wore it were lovely, but I really had no clue, even on my largest screensize viewing, what it actually *looked* like at cuffs, armholes, neckline, etc. Especially since it seems like most of the time you were facing away from the camera, or sideways. It looks nice, but it wasn't as helpful as it could've been.
I'll keep it in mind.
Agree. It looks lovely but would really like to have seen some close ups of the front of the bodice as it was being worn, same for the cuffs and the top of the sleeves. Many thanks for a great video.
@@musicandbooklover-p2o , I think it's not the last time, I'm wearing this dress - next time I'll make some close ups.
New sub here. Can we start wearing this again?
Thank you. :) And yes, we can! It actually looks like a perfect summer dress. ;)
3:03 I didn't understand how you got the 87 cms and the two rectangles following, could you please explain? Thanks
Did you turn on the subtitles? There's more information there. The width of the dress is the original width of the fabric (approx. 140 cm) reduced to the maximum width that could be obtained on the looms of the time - approx. 80 cm. The two rectangles for the sleeves are leftovers from the width of the original fabric.
love the video. Question, ive see u like other viking age reconstruction sewers pulling a tread but with tabby woven linen, wool why not rip instead? Is there evidence shears were used to cut long pieces of fabric in viking age?
@antinn7448 Linen is not cotton, it cannot be torn so easily. Wool is a completely different story. The Vikings had shears, so why wouldn't they use them? The look and shape of women's clothing is our interpretation of very small scraps of fabric.
Hi - I'm confused, the findings lookedlike the neckline had a drawstring pulled tight resulting in the 'smocking' - was it sewed down smocking like you did intead? Thank you in advance!
It is hard to say anything with certainty when you have such an old finding, but - fragment of Pskov serk neckline description:
"... After the complete disassembling of the block of soil with the remains of textiles, 11 elements of clothing made of linen and silk textiles were identified. Their careful examination allowed us to suggest the presence of an ensemble of a female garment consisting only of two articles. These two were both sewn from thin blue linen.
The first is an underdress to which details nos. 3, 5, 7 and 10 may be related. The two latter are the remains of a collar, which was turned inside out along the edge of its neck, cut out and gathered in fine pleats. In front, there was an upright slit in the middle. The folds were fixed with a thin band, which pulled together the edges of the collar."
Zubkova et. al. 2010, p. 297
"...The pleats are gathered by a thread and then fixed permanently by stitching them to a thin linen band. The band acts as a closure for the serk, allowing it to be tied closed at the neck. " (Orfinskaya and Pushkina 2011, p. 48, Orfinskaya 2014, p. 263).
Please check this article: urd.priv.no/viking/serk.html#ev-pskov
@@helliruna Oh, thank you! That's really helpful of you to share with me :) So as far as is known, drawstring smocks/underdresses weren't really used until around 15th century?
That's the earliest I've found patterns for. If know of any smocks or underdresses much before the 1400's with drawstring necklines and/or sleeve cuffs, I'd be interested to know. :)
Thank you Again for taking the time to reply to me, that was very generous.
@@lupa1445 , I also haven't heard of any such type underdress in early medieval period. It was a pleasure writing to you. :)
What kind of fabric do they use to make dresses?
Wool, linen (flax), or silk (if they were rich;) ).
@@helliruna We visited Sweden almost a year ago, and one of the regions we visited (Hälsingland) was known for linen production.
"devided" between quotes - is that a pun I missed or just a typo?
Neither this nor that. The false seam split the gore only optically, so that the outfit looked symmetrical (like the gore from the other side of a dress), even though the material in this place was not cut and sewn.