Why Gendered Buttons? Making a Waistcoat for a Historical Gonzo Muppets Christmas Carol Cosplay

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  • Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 455

  • @yezzyjames
    @yezzyjames 3 года назад +383

    Waistcoats should never have gone out of fashion as they are - clearly shown by this wonderful example - always in style. :}

    • @somethingclever8916
      @somethingclever8916 3 года назад +4

      Vests. But yes they are a rarity

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад +14

      @@somethingclever8916
      In British English, the word “vest” refers to a garment that is regularly worn and _not_ particularly stylish.

    • @QteaTheSwag
      @QteaTheSwag 3 года назад +6

      They're actually coming back but being worn as either a layer on top of a shirt or just as a shirt in its own right in women's fashion

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 года назад +10

      The Keystone vest that Ms. Banner made is what got me into sewing. I'm busty and curvy and have a sway back, so it's not like I'm going to find something in the shops. I have wanted one since the 90's. I'm So thankful for this video. Because I found this lovely plaid wool suiting at the charity store and I want to try out every technique I can when I make it.
      - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

    • @colinp2238
      @colinp2238 3 года назад +3

      I wear them often and have some that represent different organisations to which I belong.

  • @ardenboshier7431
    @ardenboshier7431 3 года назад +290

    I always heard the "men dressed themselves, women were dressed by others" explanation, which always seemed off base. The vast majority of women wouldn't have some kind of ladies' maid to dress them, and helping people dress within the family is surely just as common towards men as women

    • @unameliesa714
      @unameliesa714 3 года назад +27

      That's so interesting, the version I heard growing up was the exact opposite! Supposedly in the early/mid 20th century, wives were expected to button their husbands' (and children's) shirts, so women's buttons were moved to the other side to facilitate using the same buttoning motion whether closing their own or their families' clothes.

    • @IceNixie0102
      @IceNixie0102 3 года назад +3

      My current theory is "men dressed/undressed themselves, so women's buttons were flipped so a man could strip them more easily"

    • @jenndixon1002
      @jenndixon1002 2 года назад +6

      I always heard that too, but also with the explanation that even poorer women were expected to live with others and never alone, so someone would be expected to help her button.

    • @piccalillipit9211
      @piccalillipit9211 2 года назад +16

      Yeah - that's total rubbish - as you suspect. It was brought in with the mass manufacture of garments and department stores to enable the staff to identify men's from womens quickly. Before that, there was no gender difference and my tailoring books from c1900 indicate you should make the closing based on the left V right-handedness of the wearer.

    • @Dragon-Slay3r
      @Dragon-Slay3r 10 месяцев назад

      We can't complicate the mental health team with a nazi variations to cover the previous cover what do you think? Let me know

  • @melissahughes4205
    @melissahughes4205 3 года назад +24

    Fun trivia related to left-over-right for kimonos; when a body is prepared for funeral rites it is dressed in a kimono with the closure reversed, that is right-over left. This is why some manga writers object to their works being "flipped" when translated.

    • @levanataylor790
      @levanataylor790 3 года назад +2

      Wow, interesting point!
      Although observers would be more likely to first notice flipped illustrations by the fact that the human race would seem to be more than 90% left-handed. Given that the vast majority of manga don't depict people in kimono, the handedness issue is what will have convinced translation companies to employ redrawers rather than a few isolated instances of someone objecting to creepy-looking reversed kimonos.

  • @BrandonGrew
    @BrandonGrew 3 года назад +33

    Gonzo ensemble? You mean … a Gonzemble?

    • @sonipitts
      @sonipitts 3 года назад +4

      *chokes on tea* 🤣🤣🤣

    • @aaescas
      @aaescas 3 года назад +4

      👆 I was just checking to see if anyone had said this and I'm so glad other folks' brains are also going "... Gonzemble!"

  • @nekkidnora
    @nekkidnora 3 года назад +91

    You know, I often hear how the women's fshionable shape in history was achieved through clever padding and clothing shape rather than actually changing one's body to match fashions via surgery and dieting. I don't often hear the same said about men's clothing, but I gotta say, the cut of the shirt, the shape of the waiscoat, it goes such a long way to giving you a masculine shape. It's really astounding.

    • @anna_in_aotearoa3166
      @anna_in_aotearoa3166 3 года назад +26

      Nice point! 👌 Especially as in SO many eras, men's fashionable shapes were equally unusual & just as constructed by their clothing as women's! Think for example of the Regency era gentleman in tight pantaloons & cutaway jacket, or a Tudor guy in peascod-belly doublet and hose.... Lots of emphasis on having very specific proportions that usually require stiff tailoring and plenty of padding (on shoulders, or stomach, or even the calves!) And then there's men's corsetry, a rabbithole I wish some costuber would one day jump down, as nobody ever seems to discuss it...?

  • @sewthernbelle
    @sewthernbelle 3 года назад +229

    I know you’re going for historically accurate but since this is a cosplay too could have saved yourself a couple of hours research because most Muppets including Gonzo are left handed. Because the Muppeteer uses his right hand to make the Muppet talk while using their left hand to control their hand.

    • @waterbitten
      @waterbitten 3 года назад +28

      Huh! *the more you know* thanks for sharing a different perspective.

    • @SingingSealRiana
      @SingingSealRiana 3 года назад +22

      my handedness has no influence on the garment closures though

    • @sewthernbelle
      @sewthernbelle 3 года назад +15

      @@SingingSealRiana it depends. Some people don’t care either way but others prefer their dominant hand

    • @tananario
      @tananario 3 года назад

      @@SingingSealRiana What’s does that have to do with a muppet’s waistcoat?

    • @SingingSealRiana
      @SingingSealRiana 3 года назад +1

      @@tananario that handedness is not the definit "this is how it has to be" factor as stated

  • @twobluestripes
    @twobluestripes 3 года назад +35

    I work in a uniform that includes trousers, white shirt (one chest pocket) and vest (as well as tie, cap, optional jackets, etc). The vest has two small welted pockets at the waist, and one medium interior pocket at the top left chest. The trousers have 4 pockets, traditional welted back pockets and side slit front pockets. You would be surprised how much I and my coworkers use the little vest pickets. We shove in there lip balm, watch, hand lotion, small pen or pencil, folded bits of paper like work info packets, money including coins and bills. receipts, tiny flashlights, our face masks, hair ties or clips, whatever! They are such essential pockets in our daily lives at work that if we pick up a vest at the uniform checkout that doesn’t have real pockets (for a time a few years back they were making them false!), we cut the welts open and just fill the lining of our vest as if it’s one giant pocket. True story!

    • @GuiSmith
      @GuiSmith Год назад +5

      Whole body pockets, sounds handy!

  • @kirstenpaff8946
    @kirstenpaff8946 3 года назад +17

    That removable button hack is brilliant. I have been wanting to make a hobbit style waistcoat for ages, but none of the buttons I like are machine washable. Now I can have my waistcoat and easy laundering.

  • @inerlogic
    @inerlogic 3 года назад +25

    "I felt it would be too much"
    Excuse me Ms Nicole..... have you even met Gonzo?

  • @Chibihugs
    @Chibihugs 3 года назад +192

    Waistcoats are fantastic and I adore yours. It is so weird to consider how something as mundane as a button could have gendering.

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад +14

      A few centuries earlier, buttons were a mostly male fastener, while women’s garments were laced closed.

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 года назад +9

      @@ragnkja One slow step to equality at a time.
      We need to get our pockets back into the mainstream.
      - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

    • @gothicgwen9066
      @gothicgwen9066 3 года назад +3

      I just remember learning gendered buttoning while studying... we were never told why, I never thought to ask!

    • @NWolfsson
      @NWolfsson 3 года назад +5

      And even nowadays, male clothing is fastened left over right, and women's clothing right over left. Which I'm persuaded is just a ploy to sass people making their own clothes and didn't realize such a detail. When my sewing teacher taught me that I genuinely went "Really? Buttons? This is a god damned blouse, let it speak for itself at this point!"

  • @ds549
    @ds549 3 года назад +231

    As a guy who is interested in fashion history, I thank you so so so much for this video, as I personally couldn't really find any instructional videos on how to make historical men's wear. Your videos inspire me a lot (especially this one), and I'm now thinking of making historical menswear from the 1830s-40s, even though I am most likely going to get discouraged and ridiculed for that lol

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад +47

      If you alter your style slowly enough, people will just get used to it. Maybe swap out the modern T-shirt for a historical shirt occasionally, then all the time, then occasionally add a waistcoat? Or if you’re in the northern hemisphere you may want to introduce the waistcoat first, simply because it’s useful for staying warm.

    • @somethingclever8916
      @somethingclever8916 3 года назад +46

      We worry too much over what strangers will think
      Life is short.
      People really aren't thinking that much of others

    • @roxiepoe9586
      @roxiepoe9586 3 года назад +21

      It is helpful in dealing with those who mind business that is not their own to appreciate that they are actually self-identifying as a****les. This will save you a great deal of time in wondering and identifying. It would be nice if everyone was nice, but, it isn't going to happen.

    • @meeseification
      @meeseification 3 года назад +26

      Never mind what others think--like the others said, start introducing pieces and you will be all set. Remember what ZZ Top once said, "The girls go crazy for a sharp dressed man."

    • @zeideerskine3462
      @zeideerskine3462 3 года назад +32

      You get a big encouragement from me. The world will be so much more colorful and dapper with a few neo dandies around.

  • @stevieP994
    @stevieP994 3 года назад +56

    I love that she structures her videos like a masterclass. Sometimes I feel like I’m in a lecture hall listening to a professor on fashion history.

    • @Dragon-Slay3r
      @Dragon-Slay3r 10 месяцев назад +1

      The balls for fire was to cover the balloon which the jin drew, these people are so superstitious 😭 and they don't want to medicate my daughter for this reason. This is why the deployed her medication and this is why they not giving her medication 😭 and that's why they wanted to hospitalise her so I couldn't check what they're doing

    • @Dragon-Slay3r
      @Dragon-Slay3r 10 месяцев назад

      This is the criss cross so 10 gets away because of hand wash and covid Boris freedom day
      wow this country is truly run by criminals what shall I do now? Call 999? 😭😂

  • @insanecat6
    @insanecat6 3 года назад +77

    Me and my Dad were literally just having a debate about button-handedness last night! He concluded that a polo he got from work must have been a women's one because when he put it on he couldn't do the buttons because they were on the wrong side and that made me have to check all of my own button shirts to confirm that they were different from men's. It even extended to our hoodies with zippers!

    • @liav4102
      @liav4102 3 года назад +9

      I remember button handedness was the main clue to solving a case for Encyclopedia Brown

    • @karenramnath9993
      @karenramnath9993 3 года назад +1

      @@liav4102 Encyclopedia Brown!!!🤩

  • @flaviadias2542
    @flaviadias2542 3 года назад +73

    Amazing video. Can't wait for the episode where you make a historically accurate chicken to play Camilla in the final photoshoot.

  • @gretaface
    @gretaface 3 года назад +12

    Obviously what you need in your waistcoat pocket is a miniature of Gonzo.

  • @argusfleibeit1165
    @argusfleibeit1165 3 года назад +71

    The doggie looks worried at the end. My mom had nurse's uniforms years ago that had removable shank buttons, that were held on individually by tiny "cotter's pin" type fasteners through the shanks. I wonder if they still make them? She would take the buttons on and off every time she laundered the uniforms, which was of course after every shift that they were worn. I had the job of putting the buttons back on when I was old enough. Eventually she got new uniforms that had regular buttons or zippers.

    • @JeanneLugertLadyTatsLace
      @JeanneLugertLadyTatsLace 3 года назад +5

      My mother's uniform did too.

    • @rosequill7925
      @rosequill7925 3 года назад +16

      They do still make them. They're used a lot in military dress uniforms. My dad gave me some of his for the first coat I made where I was very indecisive about buttons and wanted the ability to change them out easily

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 года назад +12

      @@rosequill7925 Of course! On the Military Dress-uniforms the buttons can be absolutely huge. Removable buttons makes the Laundress' job so much easier. Saves the fabric supporting the buttons from undo strain. Just brilliant.
      - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

    • @joehonan1773
      @joehonan1773 3 года назад +8

      @@stevezytveld6585 also allows you to shine the buttons without worrying about the fabric otherwise you would use a button stick

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 года назад +4

      @@joehonan1773 Of course. Shine-y buttons. Essential for surviving Boot Camp.
      Brilliant.
      - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @paulinedunne3481
    @paulinedunne3481 3 года назад +5

    and to think i had just decided that that fox waistcoat was 'too much work'. it is. i'm still going to make it.

  • @bethmartinbooks
    @bethmartinbooks 3 года назад +26

    Your waistcoat turned out amazing! I really like the saturated colors. The tiny pockets in front do have a function! The left pocket is for your pocket watch with the chain fed through one of the buttonholes, and the right pocket is for your watch key--if your watch requires one.

  • @sarahtaylor4264
    @sarahtaylor4264 3 года назад +70

    What I got out of this video (regarding Western clothing):
    The most simple explanations are usually the best. Most people are right hand dominant, therefore left over right is easier for the population to fasten as a whole. Women's garments start using hooks and eyes, which requires a new technique to sew and fasten in which the opposite is true. It sticks around after buttons make a comeback and so both ways of doing buttons coexist. Then people need some grand philisophical reason for things and use gender to make those theories work.

    • @deefjohnholler
      @deefjohnholler 3 года назад +6

      simple is always best. this is called occum's razor. it is a concept in philosophy. i agree with what you say but i feel that gendering is the simplest explanation and i dont think nicole is dismissing intentional gendering as a contributing factor. gender is as much part of victorian society as it is of our own and it needs to be acknowledged as a co-factor. that is what i got out of this video.

    • @wwaxwork
      @wwaxwork 3 года назад +1

      Gendering is the simple explanation.

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 2 года назад

      @@wwaxwork
      Your “simpler explanation” just raises new questions, which are answered by the hooks-and-bars explanation.

  • @Whitney_Sews
    @Whitney_Sews 3 года назад +122

    It turned out amazing! The leather piece to hold the buttons is brilliant.

  • @kimberly3299
    @kimberly3299 3 года назад +17

    Something of note about the gendered-button-side-thing; I once learned in a fashion class that even though women's garments are often right-over-left, the ones that aren't (low-priced jeans being huge suspects of this) is because they are manufactured on the same machines that make men's styles. Instead of changing the machinery to put fly zippers in right-over-left, they just do it left-over-right and people buying the women's style just have to deal with it.
    Women's dress slacks and trousers, especially of a nicer brand, will more often have the fly right-over-left.

  • @kathmorgan3429
    @kathmorgan3429 2 года назад +5

    I always thought someone on the team must have had a great time making dapper little outfits for Gonzo. He had some great little chicken print shirts.

  • @ecologicaladam7262
    @ecologicaladam7262 3 года назад +22

    Such gorgeous fabric 👍 I remember back in the '70s when I was slim (!) buying a pair of ladies jeans as the fit was better, but oh , having the fly the wrong way round completely flummoxed me! 🙃

  • @aksez2u
    @aksez2u 3 года назад +9

    Super interesting detail where the button shanks extend through grommets and are anchored by a strip of leather. I've never seen anything like that before.

  • @Dinuial
    @Dinuial 2 года назад +3

    When I took his doublet making classes Mathew Gnagy suggested the closure treatment was part of dressmakers establishing themselves as a separate profession from tailors with their own protected techniques.

  • @kagitsune
    @kagitsune 3 года назад +5

    I know it might seem obvious to you all, but actually watching someone hand-sew a waistcoat makes a lot of the seam/stitch types used at the time make sense. I've been over here in industrial sewing land, and it's easy to forget that what's easier under a machine foot is probably not what's easier with a hand-held needle.

  • @elisabethm9655
    @elisabethm9655 3 года назад +47

    Point of interest…yes, in traditional Jewish menswear, the closures are always right over left - specifically done to differentiate the garments from gentile styles and a symbol of pacifism. I’m not sure when this sartorial rule began, but the 19th c. portrait of my husband’s grandfather has them right over left.
    ❤️ your waistcoat! Totally Gonzo!

    • @SpringStarFangirl
      @SpringStarFangirl 29 дней назад

      Woah. I was wondering about that when she mentioned Hassidic Jews doing right-over-left closures (I'm Orthodox but not Hassidic) so thanks for the explanation!

  • @christineherrmann205
    @christineherrmann205 3 года назад +43

    I'm just so sad that we haven't gotten an Abby Cox Miss Piggy dress. Or Kermit; that would be amazing, too. Because COSPLAY GOALS.
    The waistcoat is absolutely stunning.

    • @NWolfsson
      @NWolfsson 3 года назад +11

      Hear me out: Karolina Zebrovska making a Kermit-inspired dress/suit.

    • @mirjanbouma
      @mirjanbouma 2 года назад +3

      I'm in favour of all of these!
      A while back a lot of lovely ladies including Nicole and Abby did Disney princess outfits... Can we hope for a Muppets Christmas Carol version?! 🤩

    • @maryeckel9682
      @maryeckel9682 2 года назад +2

      The challenge would be to keep Abby/Piggy from running after the guy who plays young Scrooge 🤣

  • @tambriggs
    @tambriggs 3 года назад +8

    That is one smart waistcoat. I think Gonzo would approve!

  • @stevezytveld6585
    @stevezytveld6585 3 года назад +9

    Dear Ms. Rudolph, if there were awards for sewing, you'd at least be at the Peabody level. That vest is stunning. And that trick with the buttons has literally just blown my mind. It is So ingenious. The Keystone vest that Ms. Banner made is what hooked me into sewing in the first place. And curvy, plus size me has been plotting out how to make The Waistcoat that I've always wanted ever since. Thank you. This video is about to be on repeat a whole bunch of times.
    _A theory_ - The small pockets are to meant hang your thumbs from. So you can bounce on your toes, patting your belly, as you hold forth. Or so I would imagine. OK, so I can totally see myself doing that. According to the google machine, pocket watches became common in 1857 when the gear parts became standardized. So, this is an evolutionary step that becomes the watch pocket?
    - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @TheChickiboots
    @TheChickiboots 3 года назад +34

    Wow, the version of why buttons are on the opposite side from men to women that I was brought up with was that it was so the men could undo the women's clothing more easily when they were getting undressed to sleep together! Sorry, I don't have a source it's just the one "everyone knew" as I was growing up

  • @rcbirdy3758
    @rcbirdy3758 3 года назад +64

    Thank you for covering the button thing! I was one of those people who assumed it was weapons-related (cowboys rather than swordfighters but the explanation was the same), but the hooks and eyes explanation makes a lot of sense. (The eye roll at 17:15 is a big mood!) This is also useful information for my one-of-these-days Genderqueer Victorian Wizard costume that I'm planning out. Love the reveal at the end, very dapper!

  • @yoshiew05
    @yoshiew05 3 года назад +4

    It never occurred to me to do a welt pocket by hand!! Makes total sense as one has SO much more control! Duh…

  • @cherisseepp5332
    @cherisseepp5332 3 года назад +11

    I love that you made the bow tie for your puppy. Very dapper and festive.

  • @KenZchameleon
    @KenZchameleon 3 года назад +17

    It's fabulous!
    I was always told the "maids dressed the women" myth and never thought anything of it. I've learned so much from your videos. I'm looking forward to the next one.

  • @creepydoll2872
    @creepydoll2872 3 года назад +5

    Nicole you look so pretty with this 1930s style wavy dark hair and the dark eyeshadow and lipstick recently. Looks perfect on you.

  • @MossyMozart
    @MossyMozart 3 года назад +5

    Ms Rudolph --- I would find a specific video on pattern matching to be EXTREMELY helpful. Also, when you have critical pattern matching in a garment, how much extra fabric do you need to buy? Would 1-1/2 x the recommended yardage be reasonable?
    I like the fabric you chose for your waistcoat; the colors in Gonzo's are satisfying to see together. (He is blue and the rusty/orangey colors are compliments to his color. How much do you take color schemes, such as analogous, complimentary, tetradic, and the like, into consideration when you design garments and outfits?) The trick of embedding the shanks of the buttons and using the strip of leather is an eye-opener for me. Never would I have thought of doing that. Thank you.

  • @dianavoermans
    @dianavoermans 3 года назад +14

    What a wonderful colorcombo in the silk. And the waistcoat is absolutely beautiful

  • @lisettegarcia
    @lisettegarcia 3 года назад +11

    4:18 - Nice shoutout, thank you! For such a highly stylized set of garments, it is odd (and sad) that it is almost always omitted from discussion. Thank you for delivering concise yet thorough content, as always! 🤗

  • @stephen1r2
    @stephen1r2 3 года назад +1

    A great matching bowtie on that special someone.

  • @AlexLostInWonderland
    @AlexLostInWonderland 2 года назад +2

    So I love this series as a whole and men’s fashion history isn’t covered nearly as much, but I absolutely love the mental whiplash of going from a wonderful fashion history lecture/rant to ‘so Gonzo’. It’s always jarring and I love it.

  • @emmayoung330
    @emmayoung330 3 года назад +9

    These videos are like getting to chat about gorgeous clothing with the coolest professor you know! Thank you for all the research and work you put into these videos!

  • @TheEconWoman
    @TheEconWoman 3 года назад +13

    Oh my gosh this is perfect! You’ve come so far with your videography and presentation skills. The research and amount of sewing detail that you show is truly amazing. This may be one of my all-time videos surrounding sewing.

  • @heatherrandle1307
    @heatherrandle1307 3 года назад +5

    This video came at the perfect time. I have been trying making a waistcoat for my husband for our vow renewal for months and was honestly at the point of giving up. the techniques you have shown are the ones that just did not make any sense in the written pattern I was originally going to use. Thank You!! BTW the ASMR in your videos is just so soothing, I wish I could just listen to that while i did all my work.

  • @rebeccacuthbertson1271
    @rebeccacuthbertson1271 3 года назад +13

    Holy wow that came together much more quickly than I anticipated. I was just like, "but wait, we're done?" 😅 looks incredible Nicole!

  • @skullslace2426
    @skullslace2426 3 года назад +2

    I cannot tell you how pleased I was when I watched the Muppet Christmas carol with my family after a terrible, terrible month at work and on the way home I saw you started this project.

  • @TheMetatronGirl
    @TheMetatronGirl 3 года назад +36

    The waistcoat is fabulous. I just love that tartan! Fascinating construction, too.
    Edit: Aww!! Bailey’s bow tie is ADORABLE! 😍🤩

    • @thelegendfortune
      @thelegendfortune 3 года назад +2

      I love your profile pic

    • @lorisewsstuff1607
      @lorisewsstuff1607 3 года назад +3

      Awww. If there's tartan fabric left Bailey could have a matching bow tie 🎀

    • @TheMetatronGirl
      @TheMetatronGirl 3 года назад +1

      @@thelegendfortune Thank you! 🥰

    • @thelegendfortune
      @thelegendfortune 3 года назад +2

      @@TheMetatronGirl you’re welcome! 😇

  • @emeraldh80
    @emeraldh80 3 года назад +8

    Thank you so much for doing menswear, I've been trying to figure out how to do a waistcoat (a little earlier than this era) for a while and this was really helpful!

  • @juniortofu
    @juniortofu 2 года назад +1

    Hanfu and Kimono are done left over right is cause doing it right over left is for the dead so if you wrap them that way you are essentially saying you are dead.

  • @diamondslashranch
    @diamondslashranch 3 года назад +5

    I’m so glad to have found this channel. The absolute most sensible person on these topics on you tube.

  • @FlickiChicki
    @FlickiChicki 3 года назад +1

    At least for home sewing, my grandma (born in 1911) was taught to use white/ivory/cream/natural linings so the color of the lining doesn’t bleed or rub onto the other clothing. And so she taught me. Do I always follow her rules? No, but I sure do have 90% of lining on nice clothes being a light color.

  • @dawnbuxton8204
    @dawnbuxton8204 3 года назад +4

    Nicole, I love watching you recreate outfits from movies, photos and extant garments.

  • @RhanorLilybet
    @RhanorLilybet 3 года назад +2

    I love the sound of the thread going through the glazed cotton. Very soothing ASMR.

  • @cyrilwilde6832
    @cyrilwilde6832 3 года назад +11

    I want to start learning more about historical men’s fashion, but I’m finding it difficult because it keeps showing me more women’s fashion than men’s and I don’t know how or where to start and it’s making me feel kind of overwhelmed

    • @catherinepeloton4446
      @catherinepeloton4446 3 года назад +7

      In France we've got "discussions sartoriales " on youtube channel and Hugo Ducaumet explains on it what it 's to be a french or english or italian gentleman about men fashion I'm a woman but yet l follow his channel becauce l'm fond if all kind of fashion.lf you find out his channel as he's married with an american woman he's got his english channel"sartorial talks" it's called.you 'll learn a lot about shoes fabrics for men tailors in the all world etc...

    • @nian60
      @nian60 3 года назад +3

      Somebody else in this comment section mentioned Zack Pinsent. I don't know who he is, but apparently he dresses in historial clothing. Maybe see if he has some tips?

    • @theFULLMoonKnight
      @theFULLMoonKnight 2 года назад

      In my current research journey, there seems to be far more published material in the written form (as in books & a few largely defunct web blogs) than in video format, sadly. I'd definitely recommend checking out pattern books in your preferred time period. Also, some museum's publish books on their collections! I'm frequently perusing eBay & Thrift Books to buy these second hand. I try not to buy from Amazon but you can find used copies of these kinds of books from sellers on there, as well.

  • @maicey_t.
    @maicey_t. 3 года назад +1

    Gosh, what I wouldn't give to dress like Victorian Gonzo every day of my life. This turned out beautifully, I can't wait to see the rest of the ensemble.

  • @FlybyStardancer
    @FlybyStardancer 3 года назад +6

    Yay it turned out so well!! Nice and bright! And the look into why closures are so weird was interesting and fun!

  • @gilbertdolthalion8284
    @gilbertdolthalion8284 3 года назад +175

    And then Gonzo is non-gendered anyway, to add in another layer of button confusion. Or remove all of them. Love this, and the whole project!

    • @sasquatch3518
      @sasquatch3518 3 года назад +25

      While there is the running gag that Gonzo is "whatever" the other muppets and even the muppeteers still tend to refer to Gonzo as he/him but that aside in this instance Gonzo was portraying Charles Dickens who definitely is gendered male.

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад +20

      @@sasquatch3518
      Gonzo is definitely a “whatever” if you’re asking about species.

    • @jackdaw6095
      @jackdaw6095 3 года назад +31

      @@sasquatch3518 pronouns don't necessarily align to gender

    • @medeaworbs6970
      @medeaworbs6970 3 года назад +56

      @@sasquatch3518 nonbinary person speaking here: Using he/him or she/her pronouns is not unique to male identifying people. Not all nonbinary people use they/them pronouns. Gonzo might use he/him pronouns but that doesnt mean he is a man

    • @somethingclever8916
      @somethingclever8916 3 года назад +10

      I never thought of gonzos gender

  • @nicolakunz231
    @nicolakunz231 3 года назад +3

    This has to be the brightest flashiest thing I've ever seen on this channel but it is so beautifully made!

  • @haakdraakje
    @haakdraakje 3 года назад +2

    The pattern matching is top notch! Beautiful result!

  • @Hiker_who_Sews
    @Hiker_who_Sews 3 года назад +1

    Removable buttons should've continued to be a thing. I remember buttons breaking sometimes when they went through the ringer on our washer.
    Needle and thread + silk taffeta = ASMR

  • @paula-zzz
    @paula-zzz 3 года назад +1

    i really like the audio in the stitching segments, i love how the music leads to a relaxed atmosphere but you can still hear the fabric and the pricks of the needle, it's just a very unique and calm vibe i really really love!

  • @tristambre632
    @tristambre632 3 года назад +7

    Your videos are so relaxing, I love this new serie! I truly appreciate the way you teach historical facts about fashion, let's say your whole person is very inspirationnal ^^

  • @lucie4185
    @lucie4185 3 года назад +2

    Amazing it already looks very stylish.

  • @kimzachris5340
    @kimzachris5340 3 года назад +39

    Finally a sensible answer to this age old question! :)
    My favourite theory before this was that it was a "decency" thing, and that since women usually walked to the left of men (including often being seated to the left in churches), the clothes buttoned away from eachother to prevent peeking. Not that one would see much, but decency rules have always been a bit exaggerated and weird.

    • @tegansutherland7299
      @tegansutherland7299 3 года назад +3

      I'd always been told the way to remember was that if a man is driving and a woman riding passenger, they could both peek down each other's button-up shirts :P It certainly was a memorable image and thus a great mnemonic!

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад +5

      @@tegansutherland7299
      Except if they’re in a country where they drive on the left, such as Great Britain.

  • @ingridhaugen1177
    @ingridhaugen1177 3 года назад +3

    The blouse you're wearing in the intro is gorgeous! So is the waistcoat. :)

  • @tealduckduckgoose
    @tealduckduckgoose 3 года назад +3

    Really enjoying all the history lessons that come along with these videos

  • @vanessajones3508
    @vanessajones3508 3 года назад +3

    Nicole you did a great job.

  • @mckenziemitchell8824
    @mckenziemitchell8824 2 года назад +1

    I've never seen buttons that go through eyelets like that before, and it gives me such a good way to fix an issue with some shirts of mine! The buttons have that circle on the back and are just stitched through the outside of the shirt with a bunch of loops. They're so loose the shirts don't stay closed :( I was considering replacing them but making eyelets and sticking them through the shirt would be a lot cheaper than having to buy new buttons!

  • @susannahallanic1167
    @susannahallanic1167 3 года назад +4

    For about 15 years now I have been wearing front closure bras with 'posture' support. My favorite bras close with hook and eyes on the front. They are all left hook into right eye and they are not all the same brand. Then I thought about it and had to go check because I was pretty sure that when I could wear back closure bras it wasn't any different. I've only kept what were my favorite back closure bras so it is not a huge sampling, just 3, but I was wrong. It is right hook into left eye. Go figure.

    • @nanettebromley8843
      @nanettebromley8843 3 года назад +1

      my front fastener bras (and I've just had to check) are all right hook, left eye.
      Don't have any back fasteners, but from looking at a well known (in the uk at least) clothing company, most, if not all there back fastening bras are right hook left eye. Different places, different fashions.

    • @susannahallanic1167
      @susannahallanic1167 3 года назад +1

      @@nanettebromley8843 I am in agreement. The only rule I can think that makes a good rule of thumb is that if one wears a left over right button-down shirt, so should be the waist coat/vest, jacket, coat. That would also be true for right over left button down.. But I do think that if one endeavors to follow a historical fashion/culture then it might be best recognized as respectful for
      for the wear what is appropriate for that time.

  • @JosieAreSee
    @JosieAreSee 3 года назад +1

    I LOVE seeing how you made things but I love the historical education you share even more.

  • @anarosareyes6269
    @anarosareyes6269 3 года назад +4

    Ooooh this is si exiting! I can't wait for the whole outfit!
    Really interesting conversation about the gendering of buttons, my theory is that is only a matter of making diferences between men and women with no reason whatsoever

  • @saphirephoenix1173
    @saphirephoenix1173 3 года назад +1

    Your small, furry companion looked very dapper in the bow: almost as dapper as you did! I can't wait to see the next installment.

  • @brbz369
    @brbz369 3 года назад +1

    Absolutely beautiful! And I LOVE that you sewed every dang thing by hand! I'm starting to prefer hand-sewing historical costumes over machine stitching for fussy work (set in sleeves, buttonholes, etc.) Hand sewing is very soothing....

  • @TealCheetah
    @TealCheetah 3 года назад +3

    Great research and a lovely waistcoat!

  • @ScribeAdept
    @ScribeAdept 3 года назад +1

    You always lay out the history, theories, and debunking (if applicable) in such a sensible but fun and interesting manner!

  • @jeannette7243
    @jeannette7243 3 года назад +2

    Wow, I love this! I love the making of the garments, but also the research you put into these videos. The gendered buttons have always been a mystery to me - I remember wondering what that was about when I was a small kid.

  • @davederrick9431
    @davederrick9431 3 года назад +2

    Beautiful hand stitching🙂

  • @cherrylee1103
    @cherrylee1103 3 года назад +1

    the shirt and waistcoat are perfect. can't wait for the next garment.

  • @ADreamingPoet
    @ADreamingPoet 2 года назад

    Flat Washers as Weights to hold the Pattern in Place is an absolute Gamechanger. I never thought about this, just always used whatever was near me at the Time...

  • @yokoboo
    @yokoboo 3 года назад +2

    My theory for the button direction is more along the lines of from a tailoring perspective, if you're wearing multiple layers of buttoned things, it looks better if all the buttons are going the same direction. So for menswear which is more often layered than womens' clothes, is made consistent to make the clothes look neater. And womens' wear is/was a lot more varied in styles (front closures on the left, right or middle, bib fronts, side closures, back closures, etc) so a standard way to face buttons isn't particularly practical, since which way the buttons face are heavily influenced by the style of the garment itself. That's not to say that women didn't wear layered clothes, but it probably wasn't a shirt, waist coat, suit jacket and possibly an overcoat all at the same time on a daily basis.

  • @dressmup1
    @dressmup1 3 года назад +1

    Very enjoyable and informative video. I just want to comment that I regularly use the captions option when watching, as some RUclipsrs are not generally as careful to enunciate clearly as you. And at 10:09 "don't generally have buttons so rioting habits and other things that are similar to men's suit" I am certain it was supposed to say (I realize it's probably auto-generated) RIDING HABITS (and not rioting) but it gave me a chuckle anyway.

  • @redheaddetective8424
    @redheaddetective8424 3 года назад +4

    I CANNOT WAIT to see the finished product!! I have a feeling it’s going to look awesome!! Great job so far, Nicole!!

  • @dcarbs2979
    @dcarbs2979 3 года назад +1

    I wear a waistcoat frequently and intent to make my own soon. I had a pleasant surprise that you go onto talk about medieval dress and armour, another interest of mine. Much of what I know about armour comes from Jason Kingsley's channel (Modern History TV). Armour was all individual. 2 soldiers fighting side by side would have their preferences and decoration according to their budget and often be different even when doing the same type of fighting / job within a military operation (e.g. cavalry vs. archer). It was not an army uniform. Armour was assymetric to accomodate sword and shield, usually carried the same way: shield left hand, sword right hand but drawn from the left hip. The undergarment was an early t-shirt so tightly shaped that it couldn't be washed as it became mishaped with washing and would no longer be a comfortable fit between body and the inflexible armour. Another significant factor is with soft clothing you it is possible to dress yourself (although many lords would have man servants to do it for them), armour *has* to be put on partly by another person, so knights had 'arming buddies' as they would put each other's final pieces of armour on, being able to the first parts on themselves.

    • @ragnkja
      @ragnkja 3 года назад

      No, the undergarment was an arming doublet, which could not be washed because it’s a bit too densely quilted and may get mouldy if washed.

    • @dcarbs2979
      @dcarbs2979 3 года назад

      @@ragnkja Yes it is. I may have been mis-remembering this video, but he does say in the first few seconds that it is about shape rather than mould (not that you'd want mould either!) ruclips.net/video/V8-eeJUcO5M/видео.html

  • @daalelli
    @daalelli 3 года назад

    I loved the sound during the hand sewing segments. That rustle of the silk was so nice.

  • @planetarylife777
    @planetarylife777 3 года назад +3

    I think its funny your talking about the way you button a shirt and its gendered equivalent. When I went to private school we had a dress code. We wore polo shirts and people often would hand down old shirts at this school. U remember someone saying you know the difference because a boy can we lazy and stick his hand in the shirt buttons during the pledge of allegiance. Its always stuck with me for some reason.

  • @hattyburrow716
    @hattyburrow716 3 года назад +3

    What a fabulous piece! Just stunning, and the matching bow tie 💚

  • @AshleyRJones8
    @AshleyRJones8 3 года назад +1

    I really appreciated your sarcastic exasperation at the silliness of some of those ideas! 😄 Also, your stitching is beautiful!

  • @lindseywhite3371
    @lindseywhite3371 3 года назад +1

    The waistcoat is beautiful. I don't think your doggy was too happy about the bow tie though, lol.

  • @counter10r
    @counter10r 3 года назад +2

    Watching this on a drippy winter's afternoon, and your background music is PERFECT!

  • @karowolkenschaufler7659
    @karowolkenschaufler7659 3 года назад +1

    that question has been bothering me for ages. thank you so much for going down that researchrabbithole and come back up with such a neat summary!

  • @car998
    @car998 3 года назад +6

    This reminds me of how every year how upset friends and family got when talking about buying shorts for girls. Girl shorts are cut 3 or more inches shorter than boys. The longer ones (such as at Target) found are tights and material is very thin. The complaints of how we don’t want the world to see our daughters underwear patterns was justifiable.

    • @dollhousemakr
      @dollhousemakr 3 года назад +6

      I actually just buy my daughters Target's "boy" shorts. We use the bike shorts for under dresses, but I refuse to buy them regular "girl" shorts. I hate that they are so short.

    • @teresacarle294
      @teresacarle294 3 года назад +2

      @@dollhousemakr 🚳 Still wear bike shorts as an undergarment under skirts & dresses. 😉Like the added security & protection.
      🌬️ When touring blustery DT Sydney🐨, remember all the fine ladies exiting restaurants & office towers gamely trying to hold down their billowing suits & skirts. 🤗Didn't have to do any crazy gyrations to retain my own modesty-- even in my more casual summer gear.
      👑 Kate Middleton even had a few whoops-a-daisy moments in midi length dresses on their official tours. In her brief style of high fashion underpants, she also flashed a lot of toned leg & backside. Nothing more than what most girls show-off at the pool👙, but too much skin for me to expose in public😱.
      Even under maxi skirts, bike shorts keep sweat💦 from the thighs in a 🥵 hot climate like Los Angeles. ☀️It also helps keep things shielded in the bright sun, if your summery fabric turns to be a bit sheer.
      💚 Bridget from Cali☘️
      (Using my pal's YT acct)

    • @pheart2381
      @pheart2381 3 года назад

      Maybe they should explore making the shorts themselves? They will be in control of the fabric and length.

  • @ks.kyokudonanshun
    @ks.kyokudonanshun 3 года назад +1

    10,000 likes!
    I absolutely loved hearing the research and then watching the product start to finish! Your research was so on point I wondered how you had time to do it!
    Can't wait for the next episode!

  • @caraboska
    @caraboska Год назад

    Matching bowtie for doggie is simply charming!

  • @robinsiciliano8923
    @robinsiciliano8923 3 года назад +4

    I’ve been impatiently waiting for the next piece of this outfit all week! So happy to see your progress!! Thank you for sharing this….it is so beautiful and fun to watch.

    • @officialmcfly5503
      @officialmcfly5503 3 года назад +1

      Thanks for your comment and for being a fan, God bless you.... I text you on here because you're a big fan and you seems to be a very nice person 💕💕💕💕💕

  • @kimberlyrusso2541
    @kimberlyrusso2541 3 года назад +4

    This is completely off topic...but the work board in your lap... I do and very much enjoy hand sewing. I too have very poor eyesight. Does having this work area make it easier to elevate it to a more comfortable height for eyesight, problems with the back or shoulders? Curious, is it 1/4 inch plywood with a pad or cushion on the back?

    • @NicoleRudolph
      @NicoleRudolph  3 года назад +6

      It does help with keeping the work closer and with providing a flat surface when sitting at a table doesn’t work. I prefer to sit cross legged (tailor style) with the board. It’s just a balsam wood art board I’ve had for 15 years (very light weight)

  • @Alex-Sews
    @Alex-Sews 3 года назад

    Waistcoats are my very favorite thing to sew, and you just gave me so many ideas on how to improve my technique going forward. THANK YOU!!!!! Also it's so Gonzo I f**king love it. What a fantastic fabric. The pattern matching OH MY GOD....

  • @autumncosandaffect9735
    @autumncosandaffect9735 3 года назад +1

    Love Gonzo!
    Love the vest (yeah yeah waistcoat) - fabulous color!
    Love your hair!
    Love you!

  • @jeywithane130
    @jeywithane130 3 года назад

    i think this is the first time i'm watching someone sew and it's not stressing me out. so relaxing and mesmerising

  • @___LC___
    @___LC___ 3 года назад +1

    Nicole looks so lovely in that blouse. I can’t wait to get further into the video.

  • @trichiabaird8286
    @trichiabaird8286 3 года назад

    Things to put in your little pockets. Pocket watch, Chapstick, lip stick, small scissors, those tiny eyeglasses screwdrivers, thimbles (I know Nicole doesn't need/use them but others do), key fob, wireless ear bud case.