It's me again ! for your breaks you could only reverse the motor electrically ( for the test i don't know if it will work good enough with load on it )
+Johan Kuhn It is possible to do that. It tends to make the build a lot more complicated, because that energy has to go somewhere. It either has to be sent back through the batteries to charge, in which case it must be voltage and current regulated so to not damage the batteries or anything else on the kart, or it must be put through a large resistor to bleed off as heat. I want to implement it eventually, but with my schedule right now it won't be for a while. The easiest way is to buy a controller that already does that but the ones I need for the current my kart uses are very expensive.
That will happen down the line. You'd need a few transistors. One is the normal power transistor that turns on when the accelerator pedal is pushed, and a couple more whose circuits go backwards into the battery from the motor with voltage regulators built in to charge the battery that get turned on when the brake pedal is pushed. But you'd also want circuitry to turn those transistors off when the backwards voltage dropped below what the battery needs to charge. It's a fairly complex circuit if you want to make sure it's safe.
cogging torque isnt much of an issue in this case your purpose. yes it does represent relatively small torque, that can turn an unsecured shaft, but you will have secure the shaft from spinning anyways. How many foot pounds of torque are you anticipating a motor can generate? Well you have to secure the shaft to make sure it is the hub that is forced to spin and that you shaft remains fixed. and while ridding, cogging torque ripple wont be noticeable with the momentum of the go-cart, batteries, and the driver, 400-500 lbs fully loaded?
Nobody seems to care a big deal about the torque ripple from an internal combustion engine. Motor flywheel and mass of the car seens to smooth it out the torque ripple from internal combustion engines. So, maybe in some aplications we are overly concerned with torque ripple from iron cogging in electrical motors. Btw if one would llike, the can see how i used iron in my motor without without slots eliminating iron coging Granted steel strapping isn't as good as electrical steel for an electric motor but the enamle has great isolation between layers in coil of steel strapping.
the steel sheets were $50 but I bought a lot more than just for this motor. shipping was a lot more cause the weight. the aluminum was quite cheap but laser cutting the shape was expensive. I think 300+ for both motors. the rubber wheels were like $15 each. plusrandom bolts and the shaft and wire. so on one motor I probably spent 450 or 500? not including transistors. prototyping is expensive. daily production for sale would be much cheaper
I've certainly learned more since then and as time allows I'm making updates to my go-kart and these motors. The transistors I'm using now are different and much more capable, so if you need any guidance as you work on yours I'd be happy to help
It's me again ! for your breaks you could only reverse the motor electrically ( for the test i don't know if it will work good enough with load on it )
+Johan Kuhn It is possible to do that. It tends to make the build a lot more complicated, because that energy has to go somewhere. It either has to be sent back through the batteries to charge, in which case it must be voltage and current regulated so to not damage the batteries or anything else on the kart, or it must be put through a large resistor to bleed off as heat. I want to implement it eventually, but with my schedule right now it won't be for a while. The easiest way is to buy a controller that already does that but the ones I need for the current my kart uses are very expensive.
Sir please can you share the measurments of laser cutting aluminium sheet pices.
what about using regen breaking
That will happen down the line. You'd need a few transistors. One is the normal power transistor that turns on when the accelerator pedal is pushed, and a couple more whose circuits go backwards into the battery from the motor with voltage regulators built in to charge the battery that get turned on when the brake pedal is pushed. But you'd also want circuitry to turn those transistors off when the backwards voltage dropped below what the battery needs to charge. It's a fairly complex circuit if you want to make sure it's safe.
cogging torque isnt much of an issue in this case your purpose. yes it does represent relatively small torque, that can turn an unsecured shaft, but you will have secure the shaft from spinning anyways. How many foot pounds of torque are you anticipating a motor can generate? Well you have to secure the shaft to make sure it is the hub that is forced to spin and that you shaft remains fixed. and while ridding, cogging torque ripple wont be noticeable with the momentum of the go-cart, batteries, and the driver, 400-500 lbs fully loaded?
Nobody seems to care a big deal about the torque ripple from an internal combustion engine. Motor flywheel and mass of the car seens to smooth it out the torque ripple from internal combustion engines. So, maybe in some aplications we are overly concerned with torque ripple from iron cogging in electrical motors.
Btw if one would llike, the can see how i used iron in my motor without without slots eliminating iron coging Granted steel strapping isn't as good as electrical steel for an electric motor but the enamle has great isolation between layers in coil of steel strapping.
How much did all of this cost for the motor, just wondering?
the steel sheets were $50 but I bought a lot more than just for this motor. shipping was a lot more cause the weight. the aluminum was quite cheap but laser cutting the shape was expensive. I think 300+ for both motors. the rubber wheels were like $15 each. plusrandom bolts and the shaft and wire. so on one motor I probably spent 450 or 500? not including transistors. prototyping is expensive. daily production for sale would be much cheaper
300 for 2 motors of aluminum I mean
Thanks I'm thinking about making one
I've certainly learned more since then and as time allows I'm making updates to my go-kart and these motors. The transistors I'm using now are different and much more capable, so if you need any guidance as you work on yours I'd be happy to help
k thanks