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Thanks, just got some to replace Chinese ones that don't have the brake. I was going to remove the brake because the size won't fit but now I see I either need another motor or modify the machine.

Thanks for that. You have no idea why all stepper motors have a warning on them that they shouldn't be disassembled. What you did. Did you use some non-magnetic insulation between the rotor and stator to pull the rotor out, because from what I've read, pulling the rotor out of the stepper motor will cause a loss of magnetism and then also a drop in stepper motor torque.

Nobody seems to care a big deal about the torque ripple from an internal combustion engine. Motor flywheel and mass of the car seens to smooth it out the torque ripple from internal combustion engines. So, maybe in some aplications we are overly concerned with torque ripple from iron cogging in electrical motors. Btw if one would llike, the can see how i used iron in my motor without without slots eliminating iron coging Granted steel strapping isn't as good as electrical steel for an electric motor but the enamle has great isolation between layers in coil of steel strapping.

Hi, will it work with turret punch Gcodes?

You need to use Suicide to destroy the bunker

Great video. I have a problem with my stepper motor. It stalls at high speed. It feels rough in one place when turning by hand. I cam adjust it slightly by playing with the end screws and adjusting tension. Do you think it might be a slight bend in the shaft? Sounds like the same problem as yours?

Where can find this game?

What about if it's not making fine letters

Kindly tell me how to dismantle bearing and roter

I tried converting a 3 axis laser file to a dxf file and I get the message " Invalid or incomplete DXF input -- drawing discarded. File will not load

I thought of making one but its wires scared me

really appreciate this well put together video

What are the number of turns in each coil?

no time to embarece than just remake your own diy motor again, but this time use "chain" reduction gear ratio advantages, not hub and make it able to reverse, as u say keep workin on it just more work to do, aspecially for add shockabsorver cos it bump hard to the ass. and we"ll see than

Well done sir,great job

I love it that you basically have a EM pinball with seven segment display.

This is such a cool idea!

I thought it was a great video. Thank you! Would love to see a full set up, with a drive and controller.

I never saw you had started the project when I subscribed a little while ago. I think you'd find a lot of your electrical issues with your scoreboard could be fixed with proper debouncing. A couple things you might want to look at: 1 - Consider putting a capacitor (10uF or so should do) from 12V to your reset pins. This will make the voltage on the reset pin initially follow the input voltage, then slowly decrease as the capacitor is charged by the resistor on the reset pin. Once it crosses the threshold voltage, the chip will start up as usual. Consider that that energy stored in that capacitor should go somewhere when you suddenly turn it off, so put a diode in reverse bias from reset to ground. Hopefully this comes out alright: __ Vcc/12V | = - capacitor | Reset |------|<|----, -Diode in parallel with resistor to ground \/\/\____|___Ground 2 - A capacitor should never get hot in normal use (From your previous video). It's an energy storage device. They're rated in capacitance and up to a maximum voltage. The polarised ones really don't like being charged backwards, so that might be why it got hot. I've blown a couple of them up doing that by mistake. Putting a resistor in-line with it will just make it able to get less hot and not explode. 3 - Consider drawing a schematic for the board somewhere and putting it up for people to look at. edit: One more thing - at the end when I see you releasing the switch for the solenoid, I see a spark from inside the switch. That'll degrade it and eventually stop it contacting properly. You can get rid of it by putting a diode reverse biased in parallel with the solenoid so that the current running through the coil has a path to flow when you suddenly cut its current source. You'll see your relay boards also have one of those diodes onboard to protect the switching transistor.

Have you tried using magnetic plastic to 3D print the stator?

So cool! I would love to make one of these!

Hi, how can I make my own template for the coil wheel? I can`t find enything about it

Wires are potted in epoxy

awesomeeeee you need more poles to lower the kv and increase the torque

Hy Logan... How are you??? Can you please share your e mail address for some quiries regarding your Go Kart Hub motor??? Mine is jephilrosha@yahoo.com Thanks

Hello Logan... I have tried to make an image from your drawing.... I need to know that please visit the link below to see the image and then reply whats wrong to that image... web.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2469644076698464&set=a.1474401962889352&type=3&theater I will be thankful to you for your consideration... ....

Hello Logan... I have tried to make an imge from your drawing.... I need to know that please visit the link below to see the image and then reply whats wrong to that image... web.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2469644076698464&set=a.1474401962889352&type=3&theater I will be than full to you for your consideration... ....

I came here to say Thank you because you put out a really well made and informative video.

Thank u for this videos...

I have questions about this. Would you please inbox me?

Do you want an IJBT or a Mosfet. ruclips.net/video/VlMdSCI29A0/видео.html Mosfet might be the better option at the voltages your using because of their faster switching speeds, they will be more efficient. I am not sure about the efficiency of your circuit. It will help if know if your circuit goes from completely off to full on by checking the voltages at the transistor. . Unlike an audio amplifier, you do not want anything close to resembling a sine wave. The more time it spends partially on or partially off mean the less efficient the circuit operates at. generating heat in the transistor. When your satisfied it is switching a IGBT on and off "nearly" instantly, then check out This page. It is extremely helpful. www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2016/dec/how-to-power-and-control-brushless-dc-motors And look at hall sensor output and current direction in the windings for any one of six steps or sequence numbers. where three hall sensors named (A,B,C), give any one 6 logical value in this sequence (0,0,1)(1,0,1) (1,0,0)(1,1,0)(0,1,0)(0,1,1) as the magnets are rotate. Values (0,0,0) and (1,1,1) are obviously faults that should never occur. When the hall sensors switch their output, the current in the coils need to be switch on or off according the sequence in the picture you see in the link above. And lets not forget about PWM. You do not really need to PWM above 20 khz. The percentage of duty cycle determins ow much average power Volts*Amps* flows in. While the hall sequence determine which coils need to be energized , one should also add a PWM circuit that feeds into 6 seperate AND logic gates. such that when logically ANDed with the coil sequence, is fed to the Power switching transistor's gate.

cogging torque isnt much of an issue in this case your purpose. yes it does represent relatively small torque, that can turn an unsecured shaft, but you will have secure the shaft from spinning anyways. How many foot pounds of torque are you anticipating a motor can generate? Well you have to secure the shaft to make sure it is the hub that is forced to spin and that you shaft remains fixed. and while ridding, cogging torque ripple wont be noticeable with the momentum of the go-cart, batteries, and the driver, 400-500 lbs fully loaded?

You may consider improving your magnet's field strength in the gap with magnetic yoking the magnets on the rotor with a steel strapping serving as a magnetic yoke between adjacent magnets. Play with this calculator to see how magnetic yoking two magnets increases the field strength in the gap. www.kjmagnetics.com/gap.calculator.asp . It will add unsprung weight in a out runner/hub motor. If that becomes too much of an issue, then one can opt for stronger magnets and or decrease the gap width.

In your old stator you used 22 gauge wire and each phase has 3 coils and those three coils were wired in parallel when you do that, the inductance adds like L=(1/(1/L1+1/L2+1/L3) in English that is the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals. So if 1 coil has one henry inductance 3 coils in parallel have 0.3333 inductance. Furthermore, the resistance adds the same. R=1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3) so if one coil has 1 ohm then 3 coils in parallel has 0.3333 ohms resistance. Inductive reactance resist changes in current thus limits current flow in an AC circuit and is dependent on the frequency. in ohms, inductive reactance (XL) = 2 * 3.14159 * frequency * L when L is inductance in henries. A circuits impedence (real and reactive resistance to ac current) is a fair bit more complex and calculated as Z=square root(XL^2 + R^2). So with 3 coils parallel, the total impedence drops, and at low freqencies, can draw excessive currents. Using a thicker wire you wont get as many turns making the wire have overall less length so your inductance and resistance per coil will drop some but your adding them up in series rather than parallel. The net effect should be that for the same rpms, you'll draw less current and that current it does draw, your motor will be able to handle it for a longer period without over heating. I did not see if you had been wiring your stators in delta or wye. Delta will draw more amps than wye with current flowing in just one phase. Wye has current flowing in 2 phases resulting in a lower KV resulting in more inductance and more torque at lower for slower motors with less current and risk of overheating.

The stator laminations not only need to be electrically insulated from the copper wire, but they need to be insulated from other laminations to limit eddy currents/

There are two formulas for determining coil magnet ratio. For instance lets say your stator has 9 coils and your using 3 phase. then: Magnets = (phases +1) * coils/phases 12 magnets = (3 phases +1) * 9 coils/3 phases Or the other formula is: Magnets = (phases -1) * coils/phases 6 magnets = (3 phases -1) * 9 coils/3 phases Certainly each will have their advantage and disadvantages as an in-runner (spinning axle) or an out-runner (spinning hub), and if you want more speed or more torque. What is best may be application specific.

hysteresis loss is proportionate to the area in a hysteresis loop. In general as the the magnetic retentivity and coercivity of a hysteresis loop are increased, the greater the amount of energy it takes to flip the magnetic field. images.app.goo.gl/HbX39f6nvtXU4eiVA

Decades ago, most DC motors used brushes, because it was simplest to mechanically commutate current through brushes to a coils on a rotor. They could radial flux be in-runners with the rotor on the inside or radial fluix out-runners with the rotor on the outside but the magnets were alwas on the stator, as well as axial flux configurations Then came cheap electronics that have allowed us to electronic commutate current to coils on the stator which means the magnets now go on the rotor. And, just like brushed dc motors, brushless dc motors can be radial flux in-runners with rotors on the inside or radial flux out-runners with their rotors on the outside, as well ax axial flux configurations.

Most overhead ceiling fans are not BLDC motors but are rather induction motors. because they dont require magnets and they don't require expensive electronics to commutate current to the coils.

Looks nice!

For clarity, at 0:20 a shunt resistor is a highly accurate very low value resistor with very low to no inductive reactance . It is used for measuring amps through it by as it develops a voltage drop proportional to the amps flowing through it by the formula v=current * resistance. Since the resistance is known to a high accuracy then the voltage sensed represents a certain number of amps.

Impressive looking motor. I liked and subscribed, and hope to see the rest in the series. To see how it is built and performs. Im guessing you already know this when you eventually mentioned special metal, but for anyone that doesnt know, one thing needs to be cleared up regarding 3:50 statement on laminationed steel. Yes laminated steel does help reduce eddy current loss, but they do not reduce hysteresis loss. Rather, using specially chosen metals like electrical or silicon steel and a few others that have low coercivity and low retentivity result minimizing the the area contained in a hysteresis loop, thus minimize hysteresis loss. www.nde-ed.org/EducationResources/CommunityCollege/MagParticle/Physics/HysteresisLoop.htm

That "landing" at the very end was awesome!!! Classic KSP

From where you got silicon steel sheet? Put the link please?

Can you upload a more clearer picture of this diagram please?

Nice

What is the diameter of silicon steel plates? How much is the thickness of each plate? How many plates you have used to construct a single stator? How many turns of 20awg wire on a single tooth? Please reply?

Interesting video, I think I am expanding too slowly which is why I am finding it hard to beat Leang with Infantry Gen. 21:40 24:00 would it not of been better to use Inferno Cannons to destroy the bunkers?

It is different from Step motor. Now, I understand why servo motor is more expensive than step motor. Thank for your video