Bronze & carbon chainplates beastmode911 strong
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- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2024
- I swap out the chainplates on my Cape Dory 28 and look into different options and metallurgy.
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I know next to nothing about sailing but I've enjoyed watching your channel.
Me too ⛵
Same, I’d love to see him do an intro to sailing terminology video. I know I could just Google one but I just love sam so much I’d watch the hell out of an intro class he puts out.
Ditto
Me too. Been googling practically everything he talked about🙈🤷🏻♂️
The names of some of this stuff😂
Some people look forward to spring, some look forward to warmer weather. I’m looking forward to seeing Sam and the Pickled Herring back out on the water.
Me as well, but Sam has inspired me to learn. Ive contacted a couple of people with sail boats who are going to take me out sailing this summer. That will give me an idea of the reality of being out there and if I will take the next step and get my own boat.
@@diyoregonnowtexas9202 And, how was it.
Is this the free cape dory he got? Did he paint it blue? Also I saw a video he posted today is he still on the same boat?
After a hard day's work in normal land I can't wait to watch these videos in Sam's land. Envious of your simple life even though I know it's not physically that simple for you. Your a legend m8. Thx for the videos.
I was wandering why you went bronze. That was a great explanation! Thank you.
Really enjoying your videos- am still going through your back catalogue. Learning a lot from your current refurbishment too. Thanks for explaining stuff as you go.
Didn't expect to see you vacuum bagging carbon. Respect. You won't have to worry about that again. Just make sure you tune your rig every 1000nm or so, and speaking of that - how cool would synthetic rigging be on that beast? ;) Much love, hermano, fair winds.
The vacuum bagging wasn’t necessary but my buddy had a set up and offered to help me try it. I want to try synthetic if I ever need to re-rig. Fortunately the rigging was redone before I bought the boat so it should be a while.
My two favorite sailing channels chatting :D
we need an operation update! how is it going Sam? is it already healed?
Hi Sam! Thanks for sharing your progress in such a fine detail! It is very interesting and informative for a wannabe sailor like me!
One word of caution though - when working with carbon fiber composites, keep in mind that if you get a splinter with those pesky fibers sticking out of hand layups - it won't do you a favor of causing inflammation and getting itself out. Those microscopic needles embed themselves in the flesh and only remind about themselves when you get to squeeze it in some weird way years after. Everyone's better off without asking how I know.
I love how you just jump in and get stuff done. Great to watch; thank you.
Great video man. Love learning about boats and everything!
The quality of your content demands more subs! Kudos!!
Using the bronze is a good example of: "Do it once and do it right!".
Hey Sam! I love your channel man, been bouncing around watching your new videos and now consuming some of the oldies. Good stuff! Keep on keepin’ on!
You are doing awesome work Sam! love your videos.
Nice job Sam and David.......will be watching you polish the shit out of the bronze chainplates when you bored after a sail/cruise.......
Sam you make life interesting. Very happy to see you live your life outside the box.
Been watching your videos for a long time always nice to check up on you very interesting information about repairs and boats.
My new ultimate team-up: Sam and Dangar Stu. It would be 2 guys getting stuff done. This reminds me a lot of Stu’s Renko project.
After years of hearing the term "chain plate" thrown around, I now fully understand what they are! A few more videos like this and I might start understanding more about what Sam is talking about. I love the 'breadth' videos that string together a bunch of bits and bobs to create a story, but I also love 'depth' videos that help me really understand one element. Breadth or Depth? It's nice to get some of each.
Good & very relevant for my own experience and life path. Thanks
"I made these ah...a little thicker. You know...it doesn't hurt. And uh...well it might make it a little harder to...to drill through them." The honesty that results in unintentional comedy is what makes Sam's videos so great.
Always remember what/ where you’re putting under vacuum, an accidentally enclosed volume under vacuum usually collapses surprisingly. Just fyi for the diy’ers out there. Love the channel, great work Sam!
You're a good man Sam! Thanks for your postings! I've learned a lot from your videos.
Dear Mr.Sam,
Your eyes need protection while working with flying chips and other dangerous materials. It's scary to see you working without eye protection.
I love your project, take care.
Tony in Venice Florida
You could almost drive up there to tell him, although he may have a sign on the door saying Gone Sailing. You are a kind person thoughTony.
I really like your channel,Sam. Keep it up. I live on a 1969 ericson 30-1,and I find your vids to be inspiring and helpful for boat work.
Hey Captn. Sam, so nice to see you tackling a major project like these chain plates. Obviously, the surgery came out good and you are back to full steam without your “appliances”.
I 100% agree with everything you said except putting stainless bolts thru bronze chain plates.
How in the heck did you learn how to do all this? I am amazed at what you have done!
Well Sam its getting closer to us seeing you over the Pond...great vid as per usual marra
Good job! SS bolts are a weal point now.. they will go first and need to be inspected.. Keep in mind Carbon actually weakens the laminate when used with fiberglass because of the difference in properties..
Sam, I just replaced my aluminum chainplates with titanium last week. It was a lot of work, but I'm hopeful these will last forever.
Awesome, I didn't realize until now that your boat is a Cape Dory. My favorite. I've come close to buying one like it many times. lol
Are chainplates like that significantly stronger? I see them on a lot of serious ocean going sailboats.... the kind people actually sail around the world instead of daysailing in the SF Bay where I live.
Sam, Great Stuff! Check for the same corrosion failure of the backing steel under the forepeak/bow pulpit. I used a piece of Stainless plate when replacing the old oak pulpit with a solid piece of teak. I hope we'll be able to follow you across the atlantic with SPOT or APRS or similar! Cheers
You are an incredible teacher, Sam!
I am currently researching chain plates and replacing them to external as you did. My question is; Is bronze too soft for the continued movement of the clevis pin on the chain plate? Your viewers of your sailing channel rely on your experience as other sailing channels tend to use local technicians for technical advice that is not accurate or reliable. Thank you so much. Great job.
Good project. I was just looking at an old Island Packet 31 on Yachtworld and they only were asking $22k, it sent me down the whole chainplate rabbit hole.
Good job ! Your machine shop is really coming together.
The Pickled Herring is coming along. Looking good, Captain Sam.
Today -- March 15 -- is the 3rd anniversary of the day Sam uploaded his chainplate repair video for the Ranger 23. "March is Chainplate Month."
Freaky!
I think people forget that stainless steel is stain”less” not stain”free” it rusts and corrodes just at a slower pace. I’m from Hawaii and a lot of my tools and other stainless hardware is all rusty within a couple years.
Thanks for this video!
Man, you are going all out!! Great job.
Just binged the last 4 months i haven't caught up on today, the east coast sale was awesome!! Great job on the oyster mini-docu!
Thanks. Glad you’re enjoying them.
That was helpful. Im looking at a 1985 island packet 27 and I know the chainplates are molded into the hull with no way to check them and I need to just replace them. Rather then grind them out and mold new one in this is how I plan to refit them.
Using the bronze seems like the better option just for the reasons you explained. Even tho it was $300 it’s gonna help out a lot. Keep it up man love the content hope to see you on the water again soon😄🤙🏼
Hi Sam. (in case I missed anything) Why Did You Decide to Go with Chainplates on the Side of the Hull? Does it give you a less-crowded deck to traverse when you’re at sail, or was this the best fix for the compromised steel plates that the pad eyes were supported by? I think it will Look Great, but was wondering why you chose to change up her rigging. I’m in No Way being Critical, just Curious. I respect any decision a Sailor makes to his/her own vessel. you Damn-Sure put in a ton of work. I watch all of your adventures & never miss a Video.
To avoid dealing with the old backing plates.
@@samholmessailing - gotcha. I think you’re gonna be happy with that move when you’re at sail on your way to by Bermuda.
I love how Sam slowly tricking us into learning DIY skills lmao
That was a good education on bronze!
Cape Dory is known for heavy construction but now, Sam, you have a tank!
I dont even have a boat and I'm really excited about your launch and next crossing! Where are you planning on going? Back to Hawaii again?
Across the Atlantic!
Pickle is really turning into a Frankenstein boat, in the best way. Amazing how much work you are doing on her, but she will last a life time now.
Sam just a thought from a machinist, never grind soft metals on a bench grinder, very dangerous. The metal loads up in the stone and creates heat which can cause the wheel to crack and come apart. VERY DANGEROUS.
I'd also add always wear protective eye wear when doing ANYTHING on the machine. Drilling, cutting, grinding.
How would you round off the corners then? - question from a non-machinist who knows NOTHING about working with metal!
Use a belt sander
@@jameseaton905 belt sander or other sanding device
@@walterwinn2842 Thanks!
I’m about to do a similar project so thanks for showing us your process!
I have no idea what chain plates are used for on boats but I dig the video lol
vac bagging carbon should really be done with a porous layer, absorbent breather, then non porous then breather to spread the vac to all the areas. using a through bag connector helps with getting a good seal. but to be fair, i don't think you need to use vac bagging. keep up the good work, loving the vids!
Sam Holmes, As you know Aluminum Bronze is soft and easy to drill. You will sometimes see/get elongation of the bolt holes in Stainless Steel as well as stretching of the chain plates bolt holes and the plates where the rigging connects because of the constant tention of the rigging. Many people believe Stainless is very durable because it is hard to cut. Cutting difficulty is true. However I learned Hospital grade Stainless is ductile (IMO) which means it stretches much more easily than regular steel. This is noticeable when you over tighten bolts the threads will stretch and mis-form. Then you can never disassemble your parts. Difficulty to cut/drill is due to the chromium in the stainless. I wanted to give you a heads up about your new Al-Bronze if it's easy to cut--then the eye-bolt holes should wear out easily also. It's something you want to pay attention to. I wish you would have used silicon-Bronze --much more durable and hard to drill like stainless.
It will probably be ok,... until it isn't !!! Keep up the good work. Really like that your keeping up that rapid fire videos, makes us feel that we are almost there with you. 👍👍👍
going thru the same project on my refit, but chose a different way. instead of vertical chainplates i designed horizontal ones which then bolt thru the sheerclamp (which is going to be pre reinforced with a couple of 400 gr biaxial cloth layers). this way i avoid drilling lower in the topsides.
Your workshop has been a great investment for you. Now you need a machine room on your boat. Keep up the good work. You seem to be willing to tackle just about anything. When do you plan to be back on the water?
May
First thing I check online each morning is for a new Sam vid. I'm a mechanic and there's an expression we use as for as purchasing and collecting tools. Sam,please don't take offense, but you're a "Tool ho". Haven't seen one in your collection yet, but we all use 1/4" and 3/8" electric ratchets, (I happen to be in the Milwaukee toolverse), but I'm sure your system has one.
Hey Bud, where are we sailing to next? I’m badly in need of a vacation. Let us know.
Lookin good ! Cheers !
Hey, Sam!
Primitive and heavy duty build, always creates a good night sleep! 😎👍
And please buy new toggles, to stay in your quality! 😉
Those outside bronze chainplates should also work well as a lightningrod! You don t see it a lot here in Europe, I have a Dutch make 28 ft Friendship which has them inside connected on the bulkhead.
Lightning is a big hazard on open water, if you get hit, all the electric equipment is gone….at least. I connect jumper cables on the standing rig then and hang them in the water.
Super glad I found this video, my partner and I are fitting our Roughwater 33 out for offshore and I will be renewing the whole rig, starting with going to 1/2” bronze external chain plates. I have been curious for awhile about using carbon fiber to spot reinforce areas of the hull without much weight penalty, after seeing you do it im even more convinced. What kind of backing plates did you use for the chainplates? Or did you consider it strong enough to bolt straight through the hull?
Sam Aluminium Bronze is very very rust resistant. Good choice.
Man those could be on a frigate from 1780 holding up a 150 foot mast. Amazing.
You are a great teacher 😊⛵️⛵️
I have been involved in NDE (non-destructive examination) for some years, and in that time we have performed some inspection on products for the U.S. Navy, and it was some metal in the bronze family, can't recall the specific material. Also some fittings for offshore oil rigs and they we also some type of bronze, just and FYI.
If pirates shoot at you at least can be assured that your boat is bullet proof. Looking forward to seeing you sail it
This is not what a mother wants to hear! And it's only bullet proof where the chain plates are.
Carbide drills are your best bet if you're going to drill a lot of stainless, although they're pricey.
Look into buying what's called "stub drills." They're shorter than the regular drill length and you don't need to center punch first.
Ill look into that
I hope you got some expert advice in using stainless steel bolts to hold on bronze chain plates. I think there might be some corrosion problems, as one metal is likely more noble than the other. Ever thought of bronze bolts?
Also, to get the turnbuckle clevices on, thinning the chain plate should be OK if it's new thickness, in that area, is equal to or greater than the minimum thickness needed. I would not leave a step there however. I would machine an incline from the thinner part to the thicker part that is at least twice as long as it is high. This is to avoid a stress riser at the step, which could cause the chain plate to fail unexpectedly.
Maybe but the old cd chainplates used stainless bolts and lasted 50 years so i should be good for a while.
Love watching your adventures Sam! Thanks! A few questions: Are you planning on gel coating the hull after this work is over? Paint? As far as the interior that you are cutting up to gain access to the hull, is this going to be fixed?
I would like to know the answers too!
Gel coat is actually used during manufacture to help a fiberglass boat to separate from the mold in which it is formed. Water can get under gel coat and form blisters, there is absolutely no benefit in having gel coat on a boat, just fiberglass and a good paint will do much more to seal a boat than gel coat ever would. My recommendation is never add gel coat to a boat and if you have an older boat strip or repair the gel coat as soon as possible.
Another great video full of education
Sam, grinding brass / bronze and other soft metals on a grinder wheel particularly a course wheel is a HUGE machining no no, the thermal expansion of the soft metal that gets embedded in the wheel can and has explode the wheel like a claymore and seriously hurt more than a few. Unbolt that wheel and throw it away. Only grind steel and very hard metals.
Thanks Sam
I Didn’t completely capture the FInaL interior backing details to secure the three exterior chain plates per side to the hull 🤷🏻♂️
BEASTMODE , love it.
One thing i like about my oday 28 is I have stainless rods that go down and tie to grid
It probably would have been ok……until it wasn’t. Now you’ve fix it! No more worries!!!
Welcome to the best sailing channel.
Good to know.
Thanks
How do you like that WEN drill press? I bought the exact same one and it was not really as robust as I was expecting. I was definitely not impressed with their bandsaw. Although their 3 in 1 sanding station was OK.
That hair bro, love it.
That's been my experience with vacuum bagging as well, and I was working in easier spots!
isn't there a risk of galvanic corrosion when your are mixing metals?
Greetings From Spain Sam, yes, where did you get that mirror on your bimini top i would like to get one myself.Thanks
Did you check the stem head backing plate and bolts? The ones on my CD where completely rusted out. I wish I could share a photo.
This is the most off topic comment in this comment section, but damn, I love the acoustics in your shop. Would make for a really cool recording studio
He should record a saxophone album.
@@01AceAlpha Sax with industrial tools as percussion instruments is what I was thinking
I'm starting to think that expression "Go small, go cheap, go now" (or whatever it is) doesn't really cut it. Less fibreglass, less paint, smaller sails for sure, but I'm wondering if the savings, if you were lucky enough to find a bigger quality boat for the same price, would be all that different?? Either way getting a boat really seaworthy is a huge task, keep on trucking Sir!
High quality smaller yachts exist - unfortunately, Cape Dory never made one. Most of their stuff had serious problems - gelcoat issues, hull/deck joint issues, cheap unprotected steel chain plates that rot away to nothing etc...etc... Sam's channel is unintentionally turning into a "why you really don't want to own a Cape Dory" series.
@@cjg6364 I'm learning - thanks!
@@cjg6364
Good comment. I suspect Sam would choose a different boat if he had to do it over again...which would be an interesting topic for him to talk about.
Perfect timing Sam! Just got some dinner and now I am about to watch this video! #perfectsunday
Perfect Monday afternoon.
You said you’re getting stainless bolts to hold the bronze plates and holding it to the carbon layup... galvanic corrosion waiting? Maybe bronze bolts and isolate the carbon?
al bronze is only ok if you don't need to bend the chainplate. The lowers should be on fiberglass knees for this. Otherwise you need forged bronze like silicon bronze. You may get away with a slight bend but the strength after bending a casting will be compromised much more so than other materials. For the forestay you won't be able to use this metal.
What is that backing stuff that Sailor James uses the G10 something or other? Could you make a chain plate backing plate system instead of the carbon fiber?
The trouble with that is the unevenness of the inside of the hull. The mild steel plate under the deck was tied down with rebar making a big lump in the fiberglass. I have the same boat and am considering doing the same to mine.
Awesome project!
I wish I would have saw this before I put money down on a cape Dory 27 today LOL
You're a beast! Get-r-done! Question though, don't you need a slight angle at the top of the chainplate to align the tangent with the swage terminal/wire leads up to mast/shrouds, since the angle of your chainplate on the hull outbound is now 90 degrees vs the deck mounts?
Yeah they might need a little bend but im thinking they might be good enough.
@@samholmessailing Man, you're inspirational - I overthink too many damn projects that never get done.
Sam do you have a machinist background? I ask that because of the way you use your caliper to scribe.
Thanks
i would put support inside the hull for those plates