Turning between centers (making a lathe dog) - S02E34
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Today we make a tool to make a tool to fix a tool. In other words, we get side tracked. But in the process we build a lath dog for tuning between centers and get some practice machining some precision parts.
Build something cool:
• How to cut a Radius
Patreon page:
/ physicsanonymous
Music:
In And Out Of Love (Tigerblood Jewel Remix) (Instrumental Version) - Martin Hall
I love your flow chart. This is precisely the same reasoning I use to convince my wife why I need more tools.
ha!
Thanks for the explanation about what turning between centres and what the dog is for, it’s obvious now, looks like a very useful method 👍
Hi and very nice video! You have a great speaking voice. Very easy to understand. I looked up the use of a lathe dog, because, as many years that I have worked metal, i can count on one hand the times I've used a Lathe Dog. I have a brand new cast iron one, that hasnt been used a dozen times, by my Dad and twice by me. He was in his low 90's when he stopped lathe work. I'm in my upper 60's now. I had actually forgotten how to use a Lathe Dog, but all i had to hear was TURNING BETWEEN CENTERS. The main thing that is used for is offsetting the tail-stock and turning long tapers. I thank you for your video!
My love and respect for this channel has increased 100 fold with the clip from Harvey Birdman.
Here's a tip from an old machinist...USE CRISCO.vegetable shortening instead of TapFree or other cutting fluids. You wont break as many taps, especially when power-tapping in a drill-press. Use Turpentine for tapping Aluminum.
thanks for the clear and concise description of "turning between centers"! i'd been looking for a succinct definition with no success!
Your humor and sarcasm is very much appreciated.
*click play*
"Ok, a little side project here.."
OMG NOT A SURFACE GRINDER VIDEO
"But it's kinda related"
Don't believe his lies!
Great video with some great tips and explanations. Very neat to see some of the other YT machine/shop/maker/etc tips showcased elsewhere. That trick from Dale blew my mind the first time I saw it, genius!
kid with adhd: "i get so easily distracted i can't even finish one exercice of homework"
physics anonymous: "hold my beer"
Every project around my house, large or small, somehow turns into something causing my wife to ask "So, have you started tearing up the driveway yet?" 8-D Or to paraphrase von Clausewitz "No project plan survives contact with the metal" :-)
I really appreciate this video. I am working toward building my own tools and this is a good example.
Just discovered your channel and learning a lot! Glad to see you've added TIG welding. The vidoes are in a class by themselves, compared to all other RUclips channels I've seen. Keep up the great work!
I knew what a lathe dog was ( and thank you for the lathe dog joke, I would've been disappointed without it) but I thought they were only for tapers. Good to know that it's also for good concentricity.
Great little project.......Can't wait for more videos on the surface grinder
Regards
Kevin (New Zealand)
MachineNZ
I fucking love your flow chart!!!!
I have the same mentality sometimes!
To me, the journey to the goal is just as much fun as the goal itself, also you learn tons of stuffs on the way.
Thank you very much for this video! I had no idea this even existed !
Thanks for the shout out 😀
Happy to!
What about the balance of the Dog? I've just made one. I use a shaft like a new rocker shaft or one finished by a shearing tool to find my 'level' on a big soup pot with a clean rim. And with adding one more, or one less nut or bigger or smaller bolts (threaded into its tail), the dog set on its required shaft can be nicely balanced. Slight variations of weight movements needed for any larger or smaller shafts in the size range of this dog.
Thanks for an excellent explanation and video guys.
You guys are so innovative.
That radius trick is pretty cool.
Belt sander
when you turn a center like you have in you chuck, you dont need to turn a complete center if you only put enough point on to adequately hold your part you can have your stock deeper in you chuck and gain about 0.5" or more clearance between centers. This also gets your dog closer to the jaws to be driven. Makes a big difference on a short bed lathe like yours.
Why do you hold the spindle center in chuck and you don't use spindle inner taper for this? The chuck still introduces an error to the center.
nice work
Hey, I gotta say - most videos with music are just annoying, but yours is not only quite catchy, it also doesn't interfere with what you are telling us. And you don't waste a lot of time with extraneous chatter. Thanks!
How to make a lathe dog: have one person hold tight, the live center on a headstock, can’t have the thing spinning on you. And another person manually spin the dead center by hand, while each person holds each end of the workpiece with their thumb and index finger, between centers. LOL...JK, you guys are doing great, doing everyone a great service. Thanx for the video.
What was wrong with the ways on the Lathe? Did they need to be scraped? Or could you have fixed your problem by adjusting the leveling screws/realigning the head?
I bought a minilathe three Years ago and thought thats it ...now i have a big lathe,small and big mill welder,grinder etc and all bought after the minilathe....it seems to be a virus that if you buy one you need to have a whole punch of machinery :-))
Brilliant... just brilliant. 🤗
Now that's a nice looking dog.😲
Great video, really interesting.
you sir have yourself another subscriber
nice to see someone learning as they go
what lathe are you using?
Thanks for the good videos.man it’s turning between center.not milling between center.hope to see more progress on that surface grinder
Welcome to the Yak Shaving Channel :)
Hey, I'm on there! Keep up the great videos!
Hi I know this may seem a bit technical for the comments but there is something you you should know:
By mounting the centre in the three jaw you DO NOT INCREASE THE ACCURACY OF THE WORK HOLDING. The inaccuracy of the three jaw is transfered to the centre and that inaccuracy is once again transfered to the work piece- your back to square one. Working between centres only increases the accuracy of your work holding when the centre is mounted in the internal taper of your spindle nose (assuming your spindle nose is accurate).
In order to drive the dog in this situation will require a 'dog face' sometimes called a 'face plate' is attached to the external tapper and your drive dog slots into this plate. TOT summaries this much better (and more hilariously) here: ruclips.net/video/K67bZQSETiE/видео.html
Actually you get an increase in accuracy by taking a skim cut on the fixed tapered cone. By doing this you transfer the real concentricity of the lathe to the cone, regardless of the position of the jaws. The trick is to not remove the cone until the operation is done, or if you do to take another skim cute after. Of course having an internal taper on your lathe is a good way to go. This lathe does not have one.
your lathe spindle should accept a mt4 dead centre,
If it does, it needs quite a bit of work to get anything to seat in there. I will have to look into that.
That's what I was also thinking Frazer. You want the dead center mounted in the MT of the headstock spindle.
@@timmer9lives More work for zero gain. Taking a skim cut of the cone in the three jaw will render it perfectly concentric with the centerline of the lathe. If you take the chuck off you also lose the ability to drive the dog with one of the jaws. Just because that might be how YOU do it doesn't mean its the only way.
WOW, this dude had smoked some goooooooouuuuddddd shhheeeeeeeeeettttt!!!
Nice Video
Project to project to project is call Yak Shaving™
Did you consider balancing the Lathe dog? It looks like it is out of balance to me. I built a lathe dog and low and behold it was co out of balance that when using it between centers my mini lathe would bounce around like a rabbit. What happened to clone #3? Love the vids, keep'em commin/
Thanks James. On a smaller lathe, I would be a lot more concerned, but that this scale it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
Wiggle wiggle wiggle LOL
that was not a small project... it seems there was alot of steps to do on that mill... how long did that take you?🤔
You need lots of high pressure grease for centers, they will burn out!
Only if your using a dead center in the tailstock.
Very nice work guys. Title of this song?
At which point would it have been cheaper to have the lathe beds ground in from someone with a surface grinder big enough? I know, I know that sentence before gets near treason. :)
even if that were true (which by my math, it wouldn't be cheaper) i would end up with far less tools and no experience, which kind of defeats the purpose .
"[but] i would end up with far less tools and no experience"
I actually wouldn't have thought that it wouldn't be cheaper to have it done vs. materials and machines.
Was more of a joke anyways. I'm currently starting a makerspace since I gathered enough experience*.
*tools
Good explanation and video however no point in machining centre to centre if you chuck up the centre in your out of spec 3 jaw chuck.
Tony Papantoniou by truing the center in the chuck and not removing it, you do remove the chuck from the equation. youve missed the point, pun intended.
Which material is this you have used
3 jaw chucks with more than 0.01mm runoff scare me...
So so close to being on the money but by putting the headstock centre in the chuck, any runout will be reproduced on the workpiece.
To eliminate as much runout as possible, place the centre in the bore of the headstock spindle and use a catch plate to drive the dog (turning a point down just prior to mounting the work is an acceptable workaround but still comes second to spindle mounted points).
With that said, I've enjoyed every episode so far and I look forward to the next installment :)
What he said! Made me a little crazy watching and listening.
Yeaaaahh... No you just turn the center point and that's guaranteed concentric to the center of the headstock rotation (because, you know, lathe). If you take the center point out you'll need to turn it again, but you can take your workpiece out from between the centers and that won't upset anything.
Perfect response, that's what I was hoping you would say, carry on ;)
You didn't monetise this video?!
Nice milling, is that mild steel?
i ö I think a36... Came from the scrap bin though so could be 1018 or something
A lathe dog is what you see in Kyle Toth's videos, right?
ruclips.net/video/FP5_ZDODCLM/видео.html
What bits do you use in your router table?
WTF man!! where's the surface grinder video!!!! Just kidding xp
Dude buy some parallels.
yeah, he didnt use any on milling the body but
used one on the leg
no parallel for the body,, not a good look
I actually did use parallels for the body, just not on the first side you saw me mill. That's because the stock was pretty banged up on that side and using parallels would have actually made it worse. Also, i do what i want.
maibe make a toolpost grinder for the lathe , been thinking about the same conversion of a conus , allready figured it be hardened
want to use a straight grinder for it ruclips.net/video/9OexoRozZds/видео.html
really stepping up your game, won't be long till you're at 100,000 subs at this rate.
awesome stuff
Which material is this you have used