Given that you made this post two months ago, I am pleasantly surprised with your prompt, indept response! This denotes one who is committed to his way of teaching, the level of knowledge he dispense and the way said knowledge is received. Thank you so very much. Subscriber for life, Rick.
another super top video - Joe is a perfect teacher - thanks to share your knowledge with us non professionals photographer ! I have visited Jackson Hole & Yellowstone in 2010 and would have love to watch this video if it was released before . daniel from France
Hey, the best part of this video is at 35:29 it says everything you need to know, whoever has this light meter and wants to shoot for bracketing and then blending them in Photoshop, the best answer ever i have been looking for. Thanks joe
Very useful presentation, but for beginners I suggest can we see the settings on the screen of the camera settings of every shot you take , I think this will help us to know about light 1/10 or 1/3 rd stops
Just wondering about shooting for hdr. You first take a highlight reading and said that was your first exposure. But wouldn’t that be your mid tone because you said to add a compensation of 2.5. Or am I missing something?
I use a Sony A7R3 and it supposedly has a dynamic range of 15 EV. My experience is that if I expose for the high lights I can retrieve an amazing level of detail out of the dark area's
Awesome video- just a quick question... how are you able to take an incident reading from the camera’s position and get an accurate reading for a scene (like the mountain) that could be miles away?
That is an excellent question! If the subject, for example a landscape scene, is in the same light as the photographer, incident metering the scene from the camera is the same because you are measuring the light falling on the scene, not the light reflected by the scene. You hold the meter toward the scene and face the dome at the camera. This point appear to be lost on many YT photographers these days, who will just measure the light falling in front of them regardless of the light on the subject, or in one incredible instance, stood in the street intent on photographing the interior of a shop through its front window. He turned the incident dome to face the shop and placed the dome against the window to read the dark interior. "He" is a well known YT personality who regularly offers advice on technique. This misuse of incident meters is enhanced when someone starting film photography on YT sees everyone in the videos using a Sekonic incident meter, often with a spot meter function, the two types of meters which are most difficult to use accurately without any education.
I also like taking analog pictures from time to time. It's a pity that modern light meters don't have support for the zone system at all. I'd be already happy if they would at least show the EV value of the metered spot, but they are mostly incapable of even doing that.
Agree. Personally I use. Pentax Spot meter I bought from eBay back on Jan. 2012. Got it checked and calibrated to Mfr's specifications by Quality Light-Metric Co. In California. Measure the EV's I sticked a Zone V scale on it. Easy to read much easier and faster that these "high end modern lightmeters" that cost a fortune. My Pentax Spot meter never failed me. I have at home a grey card that I meter once and then, under same light, always got same EV value , after 10 years of use now. My Canon T90 I CAK'ed just after I bought from eBay a decade ago, gives me same spot reading as my Pentax. I happens sometimes that they differ, but a maximum of 1/3 stop max (T90 has a 2 deg spot reading, unlike the 1 deg of the Pentax). I use my Pentax Spot eter only when shooting Landscapes with my Pentax 6x7 MLU). Do I need that expensive Sekonic??hell NO. No need to talk about the different capabilities of the T90 spot metering , and other modes of metering..people can check it online. Regards.
What is the difference between the focus area and the area metered for? In my limited understanding of photography, I think if one meters for one area then that is the area that is in focus. I don't understand how one can meter for the sky and then have the model's eye in focus. If the sky says f16, then the photographer recompose to the model eye, wouldn't the sky be out of focus?
Hello. I like this meter but got the Sekonic l-478DrR with the 5 degree viewfinder instead. After looking at your video I I am having second thoughts. Should I get the l-758 instead? I am not a pro, but I like taking landscape photos. The 1 degree spot will be better than the 5. On the other hand I can only upload 3 profiles into the 758dr. The 478DR can take up to nine (i think). Any suggestion? Thank you for your help. Trevor
Hi Joe,I bought a Sekonic L-858D recently, and I'm going back to film photography now, do I need to make some exposure profile for film photography?Is it necessary to do this for film photography?Thanks for the wonder videos.
Hi Leo, Creating a profile for film can be a bit tedious, but could also be interesting. You would need to take shots of the target just like when doing digital and then have them printed and scanned in. At that point you would continue as if they were taken with a digital camera. The potential problem is when you have a lab that tries to correct exposure for you. If you could get them to print with no adjustments this would work. In fact, some labs will offer you a digital file of your film shots which would eliminate the step of scanning. That all said, is it really necessary? If you are shooting slide film, it would be really nice to know its exposure range from middle gray as you need to protect the highlights. For negative film, shadows are the concern, but not as much. The other option is to use your meter, and take shots 1 ,2, and 3 stops over and under and see if the results match your meter readings. If not, you can adjust your meter up and down to accommodate the film. Let me know what you decide to do - I'd be curious to hear!
Question: Around 40 min in, you use the polorizing filter. You first meter the highlights without, then with the polorize filter. Why take both? Could you not simply just meter with the filter and use that setting? Is there a reason you do a meter with and without the filter?
Sorry..If 1/15 sec at f11 is shutter speed given to you by your Sekonic meter in your first examples, then you should throw away your meter. You said this: 1. You measured the highlight on the vsnoe cap of the mountain you got 1/250 sec at f11. This should give you a middle tone if you shoot at that speed, correct. To get the snow cap white with some detail you should therefore open up by 2 1/2 stops Which takes you between 1/60 sec and 1'30 sec..(1/45 sec). 1 1/2 stop more than what your meter has computed 1/15 sec 2. 1/250 sec at f11 on the snow cap. 4 1/2 stops beliw when you meter the dark area in the foreground, that brings you between 1/15 sec and 1/8 sec (+- 1/11 sec). At f11.(this will give you middle grey if you shoot at this speed- you will need to close 2 1/2 stop to get the dark area with some detail). The middle would then then somewhere between 1/60 sec and 1/30 sec .Around 1 1/2 stop from the calculated speed of your meter (1/15 sec at f11). Either your meter is faulty or your readings are faulty. Or my maths are incorrect, then my apologies. Regards.
Good afternoon I would like to know what is the difference between Sekonic L 608 cine and L 758 cine because I found a L608 cine with a very affordable value but I am in doubt you could help me worth buying the L 608 cine or L 758 cine
The L-608 was basically an L-358 with a built in reflective spot meter. It's an excellent meter and for the right price I would have no problem recommending this (though you don't mention the price). It's smaller than the L-758 which makes it a bit easier to deal with in the field. The L-758 has more computing power and options, but it really comes down to your specific needs. I'm happy to help if you can tell me a bit more about what you need to do.
With the meter off hold the mode button of your meter as you turn it on. Set your CF 1 to 1 i believe by either turning the dial or hitting mode. I dont have it in front of me right now but its one or the other. Then when your meter shows up you hold iso 2 and roll the jog wheel till it shows +2.5 in the top corner.
you dont need to measure through the filter; u already know the value of the filter; just press iso 1+2 button, and that will allow you to input the value of the filter; then the meter will calculate for you the value of the exposure; its in the manual; at 41:00 this guy is sitting in a open space with a clear blue sky; why spot metering? sunny 16 rule or incident metering is best; very misleading information; again , at 48:00, he is getting a reading f11 1/250 which is equivalent to f16 1/125; so much for the light meter use...
Its about being bothered to check , the foreground and midground arent always going to fit in to the mid day sunny 16 lighting guide , if you have the tools to check why not take advantage of their use
Given that you made this post two months ago, I am pleasantly surprised with your prompt, indept response! This denotes one who is committed to his way of teaching, the level of knowledge he dispense and the way said knowledge is received. Thank you so very much. Subscriber for life, Rick.
another super top video - Joe is a perfect teacher - thanks to share your knowledge with us non professionals photographer ! I have visited Jackson Hole & Yellowstone in 2010 and would have love to watch this video if it was released before . daniel from France
Hey, the best part of this video is at 35:29 it says everything you need to know, whoever has this light meter and wants to shoot for bracketing and then blending them in Photoshop, the best answer ever i have been looking for. Thanks joe
Thanks for your clear explanation about exposure, it really help understand some of my mistakes, I really appreciate your enthusiasm .
I appreciate your attention to audio quality in your videos
Very useful presentation, but for beginners I suggest can we see the settings on the screen of the camera settings of every shot you take , I think this will help us to know about light 1/10 or 1/3 rd stops
Just wondering about shooting for hdr. You first take a highlight reading and said that was your first exposure. But wouldn’t that be your mid tone because you said to add a compensation of 2.5. Or am I missing something?
I use a Sony A7R3 and it supposedly has a dynamic range of 15 EV. My experience is that if I expose for the high lights I can retrieve an amazing level of detail out of the dark area's
Awesome video- just a quick question... how are you able to take an incident reading from the camera’s position and get an accurate reading for a scene (like the mountain) that could be miles away?
That is an excellent question! If the subject, for example a landscape scene, is in the same light as the photographer, incident metering the scene from the camera is the same because you are measuring the light falling on the scene, not the light reflected by the scene. You hold the meter toward the scene and face the dome at the camera. This point appear to be lost on many YT photographers these days, who will just measure the light falling in front of them regardless of the light on the subject, or in one incredible instance, stood in the street intent on photographing the interior of a shop through its front window. He turned the incident dome to face the shop and placed the dome against the window to read the dark interior. "He" is a well known YT personality who regularly offers advice on technique. This misuse of incident meters is enhanced when someone starting film photography on YT sees everyone in the videos using a Sekonic incident meter, often with a spot meter function, the two types of meters which are most difficult to use accurately without any education.
I also like taking analog pictures from time to time. It's a pity that modern light meters don't have support for the zone system at all. I'd be already happy if they would at least show the EV value of the metered spot, but they are mostly incapable of even doing that.
Agree. Personally I use. Pentax Spot meter I bought from eBay back on Jan. 2012. Got it checked and calibrated to Mfr's specifications by Quality Light-Metric Co. In California. Measure the EV's I sticked a Zone V scale on it. Easy to read much easier and faster that these "high end modern lightmeters" that cost a fortune. My Pentax Spot meter never failed me. I have at home a grey card that I meter once and then, under same light, always got same EV value , after 10 years of use now. My Canon T90 I CAK'ed just after I bought from eBay a decade ago, gives me same spot reading as my Pentax. I happens sometimes that they differ, but a maximum of 1/3 stop max (T90 has a 2 deg spot reading, unlike the 1 deg of the Pentax). I use my Pentax Spot eter only when shooting Landscapes with my Pentax 6x7 MLU). Do I need that expensive Sekonic??hell NO. No need to talk about the different capabilities of the T90 spot metering , and other modes of metering..people can check it online. Regards.
Thank you very much
Where can I get the Brass Screw shown in the video attached to the bottom of your light meter ?
Really enjoyed this video. Thanks!
Thanks so much! We're heading back to Jackson in October - come on out and join us!
+Joe Brady would love to join ya, but it's a bit far from Australia :) maybe another time!
Hi, do you live in Australia, if so What city and state...Enjoyed the video...
I live in Australia. Joe does not.
What is the difference between the focus area and the area metered for? In my limited understanding of photography, I think if one meters for one area then that is the area that is in focus. I don't understand how one can meter for the sky and then have the model's eye in focus. If the sky says f16, then the photographer recompose to the model eye, wouldn't the sky be out of focus?
Hello. I like this meter but got the Sekonic l-478DrR with the 5 degree viewfinder instead. After looking at your video I I am having second thoughts. Should I get the l-758 instead? I am not a pro, but I like taking landscape photos. The 1 degree spot will be better than the 5. On the other hand I can only upload 3 profiles into the 758dr. The 478DR can take up to nine (i think). Any suggestion? Thank you for your help.
Trevor
+TrevorFL the price of 478 with the 5 degree viewfinder is the same as 758, so u know the answer now...
Hi Joe,I bought a Sekonic L-858D recently, and I'm going back to film photography now, do I need to make some exposure profile for film photography?Is it necessary to do this for film photography?Thanks for the wonder videos.
Hi Leo, Creating a profile for film can be a bit tedious, but could also be interesting. You would need to take shots of the target just like when doing digital and then have them printed and scanned in. At that point you would continue as if they were taken with a digital camera. The potential problem is when you have a lab that tries to correct exposure for you. If you could get them to print with no adjustments this would work. In fact, some labs will offer you a digital file of your film shots which would eliminate the step of scanning.
That all said, is it really necessary? If you are shooting slide film, it would be really nice to know its exposure range from middle gray as you need to protect the highlights. For negative film, shadows are the concern, but not as much. The other option is to use your meter, and take shots 1 ,2, and 3 stops over and under and see if the results match your meter readings. If not, you can adjust your meter up and down to accommodate the film. Let me know what you decide to do - I'd be curious to hear!
Question: Around 40 min in, you use the polorizing filter. You first meter the highlights without, then with the polorize filter. Why take both? Could you not simply just meter with the filter and use that setting? Is there a reason you do a meter with and without the filter?
Never mind, rofl. Watching further answered it for me DOH!. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos.
Thanks for watching!
Sorry..If 1/15 sec at f11 is shutter speed given to you by your Sekonic meter in your first examples, then you should throw away your meter. You said this:
1. You measured the highlight on the vsnoe cap of the mountain you got 1/250 sec at f11. This should give you a middle tone if you shoot at that speed, correct.
To get the snow cap white with some detail you should therefore open up by 2 1/2 stops
Which takes you between 1/60 sec and 1'30 sec..(1/45 sec). 1 1/2 stop more than what your meter has computed 1/15 sec
2. 1/250 sec at f11 on the snow cap.
4 1/2 stops beliw when you meter the dark area in the foreground, that brings you between 1/15 sec and 1/8 sec (+- 1/11 sec). At f11.(this will give you middle grey if you shoot at this speed- you will need to close 2 1/2 stop to get the dark area with some detail). The middle would then then somewhere between 1/60 sec and 1/30 sec .Around 1 1/2 stop from the calculated speed of your meter (1/15 sec at f11). Either your meter is faulty or your readings are faulty. Or my maths are incorrect, then my apologies. Regards.
Where's the river come from?
Good afternoon I would like to know what is the difference between Sekonic L 608 cine and L 758 cine because I found a L608 cine with a very affordable value but I am in doubt you could help me worth buying the L 608 cine or L 758 cine
The L-608 was basically an L-358 with a built in reflective spot meter. It's an excellent meter and for the right price I would have no problem recommending this (though you don't mention the price). It's smaller than the L-758 which makes it a bit easier to deal with in the field. The L-758 has more computing power and options, but it really comes down to your specific needs. I'm happy to help if you can tell me a bit more about what you need to do.
hOW DO i SET THE ISO 2 BUTTON TO GET 2 STOP
How to set-UP THE ISO 2 BUTTON ON THE SECKONC L-758DR TO SHOW 2.5 STOP
With the meter off hold the mode button of your meter as you turn it on. Set your CF 1 to 1 i believe by either turning the dial or hitting mode. I dont have it in front of me right now but its one or the other. Then when your meter shows up you hold iso 2 and roll the jog wheel till it shows +2.5 in the top corner.
Joe, Come to Switzerland!
you dont need to measure through the filter; u already know the value of the filter; just press iso 1+2 button, and that will allow you to input the value of the filter; then the meter will calculate for you the value of the exposure; its in the manual; at 41:00 this guy is sitting in a open space with a clear blue sky; why spot metering? sunny 16 rule or incident metering is best; very misleading information; again , at 48:00, he is getting a reading f11 1/250 which is equivalent to f16 1/125; so much for the light meter use...
Yes f/11 at 1/250 is equivalent to f/16 at 1/125, but sunny 16 would dictate that he would be at 1/100 as he was shooting with an ISO of 100.
Its about being bothered to check , the foreground and midground arent always going to fit in to the mid day sunny 16 lighting guide , if you have the tools to check why not take advantage of their use
Intro music does not fit scene. You are better than that Joe.