How to repair an Apple MacBook power supply (MagSafe)
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- The cable came out of the MagSafe plug on my MacBook power supply, so I ordered a replacement cable. This is how to crack the power supply open and fit it, no need for a Dremel or a knife.
Thanks go to eBay seller junk-is-us7399 (myworld.ebay.co.uk/junk-is-us7399) for supplying a working replacement power cable.
To those who think Apple MagSafe connectors are useless: it's better than trying to repair a broken DC input jack on a laptop, which in many cases involve a total stripdown of the laptop just to get to the solder pads. Been there, done that.
Credit where credit's due: this video uses a case-opening method found at www.instructables.com/id/How-t...
INDEX
0:00 Index
0:40 Tools required
1:04 Testing the new cable
1:28 Dismantling the adapter
5:17 DANGER! LIVE PARTS INSIDE!
6:12 Desoldering the old cable and fitting the new one
11:40 Glueing the case back together 
Хобби
Thank you for probably the best description on this repair on youtube. A couple of differences in what I did:
1) I just clipped the wire lead ins so that I could just solder the replacement output power cord to them rather than the circuit board. Didn't have to peal back the shielding or dig so far into the transformer to do it that way. Did use wire shrink insulators after soldering.
2) taped the transformer back together with gorilla tape (duct tape) in the off chance I need to do this again.
3) Put a little loop in the output cord by the plug and glued it in place with my hot glue gun, to remove stress on this particular piece.
You gave me an idea! My problem is that the cable fails right where it leaves the rubberized stress reliever gizmo (which is miserably designed). I might try cutting the wire a few inches beyond the failure point, removing the rubberized gizmo, and soldering my new cut ends to the good part of the wire. I'll make it look great with a combination of heat shrink tubing, glue gun and duct tape.
@@johnschubert825 "I'll make it look great with a combination of heat shrink tubing, glue gun and duct tape."
The words of a true tinkerer. Thumbs up!
@@johnschubert825 Just keep in mind that the black wire is actually the bare shielding down the rest of the cable. It's going to take a real heat-shrink tubing artist to get that done (but it's probably doable).
Thanks for being british and speaking so calmly mate :)
I can't help being British (Welsh to be precise) but I try my best to speak calmly (and edit out any pauses and stutters) unless I'm mouthing off about something :)
Monde de petit
Tips ..I opened the plastic up ONLY A LITTLE BIT so to retain some of the original back end clips, (I put wedges in to stop it closing), cut the wires as close to the plastic/rubber connection as poss, (shortened the new replacement eBay cable a bit), then used pliers (black and white). Each wire held out so I could carefully strip and solder (wire to wire), then I taped them it with electrical tape (making sure the tape could not move and cause a short! rubber sleeves are better if have them) then a sparing bit of superglue and your foot help down on it for a min. Job Done! thanks!
Thoroughly informative tutorial. Thanks.
I'd like to add one tip: When reassembling the two housing halves, clean and straighten the groove all around the edge of one of the halves into which the tongue of the other half is supposed to fit. When opening the MagSafe, the groove or tongue can get bent of marred, making it hard to fit the two halves snugly.
For the curious: the failure in my MagSafe plug was due to intermittent contact of the spring-loaded center (control) pin: the spring behind the pin is so tiny and weak that it got fatigued with time, and could no longer push the pin firmly against the computer's contact.
Great Video. I bought the cable for $11 (instead of $80 for an adapter from apple) and used your video as a guide.
Thank you!
Excellent - so glad you put this up. My problem was a break in the cable where it enters the brick itself due to repeated strain. Apparently, this happens fairly frequently. I did a patch job of soldering and shrink-wrapping the break that lasted about 6 months. I'm so glad you've figured a way to get into the brick itself so I can do a proper job!
Thanks for the credit on the opening method and the link to the intractable I wrote :) I'm glad it's helped so many people! (now if I could only get my cats to stop chewing on my cords)
It certainly has! A few people have tried fixing the MagSafe connector itself but they're very difficult to open without damaging them (one idiot had a pop at me reckoning the MagSafe fix was easy, but seeing as he managed to pick up his soldering iron by the "business end" when trying to fix it his opinion counts for shit).
Thank you so much. You save me 80€ for a new magsafe. So easy to repair with your tutorial I spent less than 10 minutes and around 10 euros for the replacement cable.
Thanks from Spain!
Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to put this up, I'm now typing this from my laptop with repaired charger, you've saved me a load of money! Cheers!
Thanks for the video. I honestly only watched the first few minutes and then took it from there but it was a very helpful start, particularly your method of popping apart the case. The soldering (removing old and re-installing new leads) went easier than anticipated; the holes on the mounting board stayed open and retained a little solder ring around them which helped the new solder grab easily. I also held the whole contraption down to my desktop edge with a large spring clamp so it was easier to pull down on the old wire with pliers (as I heated the solder) without it scooting around.
Great video. In my case, the wire was broken at the other end, right next to the "brick." Needed to fix today and could not find new wires. A simple fix was to carefully cut into the rubber nipple at the end of the brick and also remove about half an inch of white insulation along the wire. This exposes a fine silver mesh around a grey wire. The grey mesh had broken from repetitive movements and I was able to twist a section of it on both sides, then soldered a small amount of wire to bridge the mesh together. At this point one just has to wrap up the cut (my preference is vulcanizing or self fusing tape). It works well and I did not have to take apart the brick!
If the center wire is broken, then one would have two parts to solder and carefully ensure that they are insulated from one another.
Brilliant! Thanks for the tip on how to open the case with pliers - it worked a dream. I had to remove the cable gland as the cable had been damaged where it enters the charger - the outer screen of the cable was completely broken. As the cable was moulded into the gland, I found the best way to remove the bit of old cable was to carefully snip off the leads on the inner side of the gland, then use a 3.5mm drill to drill out a hole though the glade to push the cable though. Then strip back the cable about 2cm, twist the outer shield and put a bit of heatshrink sleeve on, then solder the outer to the ground pad on the pcb and the inner to the power pad.
Yep. I've just fished the chewed-up remains of the dead connector from the bin (which is lucky, tomorrow is "bin day").
4 LEDs (2 per side), a handful of other discrete SMDs and a 6-pin chip marked 3AB1 2100, all crammed into that aluminium barrel.
The really best movie about reparing the MB power supply. Without destroying the cover and with exact clarifying every single step. Many hanks!
I was able to watch half of the video to learn how to successfully repair my charger. Thanks for the helpful demonstration! It waved me quite a bit of money.
I tried it at home!
I was working on magsafe2, and the cord colours and holes are slightly different. My replacement cord came with a mere 1mm of prodtruding black wire with a green extension already soldered on to it and 1mm of grey wire with a red extension. The original cord had black and white wires, no green anywhere, the merest hint of melted red insulation at the end of the white one (but I couldn't really see that until after it was removed). As a rank amateur, I noted mentally but failed to WRITE DOWN or photograph which wire was in which hole before I removed them both, then of course I couldn't remember.
I found that on both the new cord and the old, I seemed to have full conductivity from BOTH wires to ALL FIVE pins at the magnetic end (and no this wasn't just because the old cord was broken and the new one a dud -- the black wire clearly corresponds to the outer conductor of the coax). Everything else seemed very much the same as your video, so stupidly I simply took a punt as to orientation.
It didn't work ... so I swapped the wires over ... electrocuted my middle finger in the process, of course, because I'd had it plugged in and didn't discharge it. YEOW! I figured I had probably fried the adaptor as well as my finger, but I carried on regardless (more cautiously) and lo, it works fine now I have the orientation correct.
For those in my boat with magsafe2 and uncertain as to orientation, the black/green wire goes nearest the edge of the PCB and the grey/red wire goes behind the small bright blue ceramic capacitor.
BTW I do love your accent. Torchwood with maybe the very merest hint of Littlefinger.
excellent great help, saved me a fortune.
many thanks fir taking the time to do the video.
Very useful video, I just finished repairing my wife's charger. She has a MBP, less than a year old, and there were some minor changes to the brick. Those 2 flaps of shielding have changed from a silver color to gold, and have also been soldered together in 2 places (no longer just taped down and inserted together).
In the end, the 2 halves of my power brick didn't seal together totally, so I couldn't get the cable winding tabs to stay in, but no big deal... never used them anyways!
Thanks for posting this! Successfully got through the entire repair following your clear instructions.
Great video! Thanks for taking the shock from the capacitor so future DIYers didn't have too! I couldn't believe it was just two wires within that fancy Apple cord.
I had a break in a wire right near the power supply. Using your instructions on opening it up and describing what's in there, I shortened the wire and re-connected it inside. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful.
I have a question. I'm not sure how to describe this. Did you manage to run the cable thru the thing holding the conductors from being pulled out of the soldering? If not what's holding them?
@@HelloStrangerPod I did manage to slide the cable through that thing. I seem to remember that it was quite hard to slide along the cable, though.
@@NigelGentry well done. I ended up drilling a hole through the thing for the whole cable to slide through. I kept it narrow enough for it to still firmly hold the cable in place.
Thanks, just used your tutorial to fix my powercord. Didn't discharge the condensors, but wasn't a problem. Just be extra careful. Putting the adapter back together was a bit of a hustle, so now it hangs together using a piece of tape. But I don't mind, I've installed the fixed adapter behind my desk and I'm using a new adapter on the road.
Thanks again!
I just did this in 2019, breaking it open as seen here was all i needed. Thanks
After watching this, i did my own, took me only 15 minutes! Everything was exactly as shown in the video. Thanks mate!
You're handy. 15 minutes is fast for this work.
Props to you sir! I just used this tutorial and it worked like a charm! I've never soldered before or done anything the least bit technical, but it still worked perfectly on the first try. I didn't replace my cable, just cut a bit off the end and stripped the old cable, re-soldered, and bing... Orange charging light!
Thanks! You just helped me answer my question 9 years later. I went into the comments meaning to ask if that was possible. Cheers 🙂
Hi Thank you very much for this video. I am absolutely grateful to you. I am able to fix my broken cable. I dont have a spare cable though. My cable was cut off at the white brick end. I copped off and resoldered and it is absolutely working fine. I am not able to put back the connector as it is laminated to the cable, so got rid of that and resoldered. NOW I'M ABSOLUTELY HAPPY!!! THANK YOU!!!
Thank you very much for this very informative and detailed video. The shop guy asked damn 100 $from me for a new one. You saved me all the money and gained some skills in electronic repair too.
Thanks friend for posting this helpful DIY video, I used it in theory ( I didnt use a solder, I don't have it) and it turned out to be working as well! you saved me 150 bucks well at least I will save money until I get a new one and this still works. Greeting from Mexico city.
Many thanks - just what I needed to repair mine. Thanks for taking the time.
Great tutorial :) I think it's the best about MBP charger repair on YT. It's great to see it can be done without damaging whole the plastic cover! Thank you!
Knew there would be a way inside this little beast. Thanks for the tips. My Retina MagSafeII was a little different and required a bit more "persuasion". Note, if you have ring extractor pliers these work quite well to open the seams as this type of pliers can be set to push out the jaws when you squeeze the grips. Very handy. These cases are pretty well glued together and an X-acto knife judiciously placed. opened the seams where brute force alone would have cracked the case sides. Also, the Retina supply uses an epoxy heat sink compound to bond the supply heat sink to the plastic case. Apple supplies are notorious for getting extremely hot when on full charge. Metal to plastic heat conduction is a pretty poor method for heat dissipation. Beware of your charger overheating after your repair or better yet, use some metal particle filled epoxy between the heat sink plate and the plastics side. I used epoxy also to glue the case back together as there were a few open cracks that epoxy can fill better than cyanoacrylate.
This method really comes into its own when soldering multicore cables, where it also has the advantage that if the tape comes off one of the joints, it can't short out to one of its neighbours as the neighbouring joints are either further up or further down the cable.
I’ve just fixed mine! First time using a solder in my life! Thanks so much! :) saved 80 quid!
I used this video to repair my a105 MacBook pro charger. Thanks for making this.
Thanks. That looked like a pretty serious belt you got off those caps! Just finished fixing up a 2010 ebay MBP so will probably end up having to do this judging by all the reviews of the 'quality' of the Magsafe on the Apple site lol. Mine has 2 cables and not a plug so I'm hoping they used to build them better than they do now! I'll probably just cut the cable and solder the new end on with heatshrink though. Nice to see somebody giving them the finger about £85 for a replacement that barely lasts a year. Good work.
I soldered the two wires to the two power block ends but its not working. Chord does have connectivity. When I opened the case some aluminium tape ripped off, could this be the issues?
Great video. Worked for me as described and saved a lot on a new adapter. Many thanks!
Nice video, bud 👍🏻helped me a lot both on disassembly and assembling the thing back. Mine only had a broken piece of power cord that I just cut and soldered back - good as new 👌🏻
top video, thanks. It's actually a very simple process but thanks for through everything with simplicity.
Great repair tutorial! Except the test at the end is missing. But anyway: Good camera and lighting, well explained. No need for me though, as I own two of these still working without any fault for 7 years now. I really liked to see you fixing one.
Thanks for the video, would not have successfully replaced the charger without your help!!
Excellent video! I just replaced my cord for $6.00, instead of spending a bunch of money on a computer cord that is ten year's old! And, it was fun to do. Good luck. Advice to add--be careful not to connect the new soldering dabs for the two wires, and be extra careful not to tear any of the board tape inside the box.
Thanks for the video. My lead didn't need replacing, but I found a number of dry joints on the PCB once you'd demonstrated how to get into it!
Thanks so much! Very helpful! Saved me the cost of a new adapter.
Very good video. Just two comments: It would be easier to desolder/solder if you have some kind of support for the main structure (brick) and when desoldering cables is not good to use mechanical force, I know if from (bad) experiences, it's natural to attempt that but PCB's traces are so thin and can break very easily, just be patient and extra cautious about that part.
Liked the simple way of opening it with pliers. So it still would look good afterwards... Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I've just finished the procedure and its working fine! :)
Almost 800k views for this video. This shows how bad quality macbook pro charger is :/
apple makes great computers, phones, screens and iPods but anything with a cable has a 100% chance of breaking on you
After 5 years of owning MacBook my second charger has broken now, and I though I was careful with it after it broke first time.
apple dont make its own screens..
Eh, tbh I'm quite impressed. I break every wire, from headphones, earphones, any device charging wire, etc..
I only broke one of the 2 wire handles on my current Macbook Pro 15 charger after a year. Unfortunately there seems to be no video or anything on google for that yet lol.
Apple In fact do make their own screens now and no longer have a contract with Samsung
could i cut the cables that come out of the Power board and then tape the new cables to the little pieces left from the old cable i cut with electrical tape then reseal up the plastic case with super glue and be almost the same as yours right?
just got my magsafe cable fixed now, thanks mate!
Thanks much for this video. I just replaced mine and this helped heaps!
Absolutely bloody brilliant video, thank you. So fed up with buying new chargers, will definitely give this repair guide a go. 👍👌😍 (Have subscribed for more of your repair tips😉)
How do I use the multimeter to discharge the remaining charge? I have left it unplugged for 2 weeks - would that be long enough for it to have discharged completely?
Also, do I need to use any heat shrink? Or how about any 'heat proof' superglue?
(And finally, somebody else suggested using a hair dryer to melt the glue and open the case.)
Thanks a lot for taking the effort on making this video and uploading it. Now I know how to fix mine. Much appreciated!
Awesome. Just completed this - worked a treat. Thank you.
Before I closed it up I made sure it worked and charged my Macbook. I then realised I'd just put myself at risk from a nice capacitor discharge like you had. Rather than use a screwdriver I connected it to my Macbook without mains power, green/orange LED glowed for a split second and then went out. I'm thinking this is possibly a better and safer way to discharge the circuit.
Thanks again for the vid. I now have two refurbished chargers!
+ThisIsMud that's a safer way to discharge ... if it's all in working order. In my case it wasn't (my own fault, I got the orientation wrong due to ambiguous colour coding and arrogant overconfidence in my visual memory).
+Jonathan Maddox that's where digital cameras come in handy. Been there, done that.
Please tell me, maybe someone from you try to do next:
I have dead magsage 2 adapter and magsafe 1 cable, can i replase in magsafe 2 charger cable to MG1? Now i need to charge my old mb pro 2007 year) Or this cable will not work on MG2 charger?
I got off lightly, there was still plenty left to zap the screwdriver.
Watch out if opening the charger. It's not designed to be worked on, so there don't appear to be any discharge resistors across the input smoothing capacitor. This can store up to 350 volts DC and as you can see in the video it takes a LONG time to discharge itself, even two days isn't enough!
How to be safe then? What is the workaround to this problem i.e., how to discharge the capacitor?
@@fisnikkastrati837 yep, short it out like he did in the video as a precaution - always wise to do with big capacitors when taking things apart. If you have any slightly higher power resistors you could also use one of those to discharge slightly slower (nicer on the capacitor and not so sparky!)
Nice and slow through all the steps. I'm going to order the part on ebay today. My kind of video repair guide. Great job!!
How can i get schematics 85W mag safe power adepter 2 i want 2 componets details only its fired i dont no its details
I think its 2 components are C052 and R051 , Schematic other wise its 2 components details
I do the video editing in Windows as I'm familiar with Sony Vegas, but other stuff (Photonicinduction's intro theme, for example) is done on Mac. Any on-screen schematics are done using EAGLE on the Mac as well, usually screen-captured in full HD by plugging the laptop into the TV.
Great video! The insulation on mine has deteriorated from one end to the other so I ordered a replacement on eBay and hope to do this replacement. Cracking the case open seems to be the major step, and there appears to be no way of breaking it open without breaking the tabs. Looks like I need to get some super glue for plastic, is there a brand you recommend? Thanks!
Just done it!! And I didn't blow it up when I plugged it in!!!!
Thanks.
I get continuous current between all the cable part and pins. I mean, the white cable AND the black one seems to connect with all the pins. Tt's not the T-Shape cable but is it normal. What can it mean ? Thanks!
Hi Sir, I saw your this RUclips video regarding repairing Apple MagSafe Power adapater. This is excellent learning! Recently, my MacBook Pro's adapter (85W) stopped working after a spark while plugging in. I have successfully opened it. However, I'm unable to see any 'fuse' kind of component inside. Can you please help me what should I check so that I can try to fix the issue? Thanks for your guidance, Sir.
Great method. You can also drip some methylated spirits along the seams to soften the glue to make a little easier to open it.
Thanks, really clear instructions; fixed mine no problems 🙏😀
Thanks to your video I repaird my broken power supply. Cheers mate.
There are components within the plug itself. I don't know if there's a fuse in the power supply circuit. From what I've seen SMPSUs respond to overload either by shutting down until they're power-cycled (PC power supply) or burning out whatever shorted it (original Xbox power supply).
If the PSU is dead and turning the power off (in the case of a MacBook supply it could need to be off for DAYS to discharge itself) hasn't fixed it, I'd try tapping into the cable and checking the voltage there.
Thank you heaps for the tutorial!
I'm careful about where I leave my charger but sometimes I forget to hide it from my bunny and well... we can all guess the ending of that scenario :'D
I was up to my 4th replacement before coming across your tutorial, really liked how you kept the camera rolling and didn't skip out on any parts while completing the replacement, that really helped!! Dismantling the damned thing took ages and I think I might've removed it incorrectly because the shielding came apart from the casing unlike yours (where the top part had stuck to the casing and you only needed to remove the light yellow tape) but it still worked fine after soldering the new cable on. I think I'll keep this video somewhere easily accessible because I see myself needing it again in the near future...
So the amount of power drawn isn't in any way controlled by the IC inside the MagSafe plug itself? (the one that specifies the charger type, serial number, etc.)
Thanks for the video. Does anybody have the schematic of the power supply?
Sounds like you may have short-circuited something in the adapter. Could be a stray strand of wire or blob of solder, could be that the metal shielding is touching something it's not supposed to.
thank you for the tutorial, your procedure was a bit messy but practical thx
Thank you from Indianapolis. Another charger fixed with your instruction. Typing this with superglue stuck to my fingertips while waiting for the clamped case to set.
I just tried this - got the case open by using an x-acto knife to score along the seams to weaken the clips, then it snapped open fairly easily. BUT - when I got inside, the side of the PCB that you need to be able to solder on is GLUED with I-don't-know-what to the inside of the case. I tryed prying as much as I dared, but couldn't get it loose. My only problem is that the cat chewed on the cable and it has to be jiggled sometimes to start charging. I've always wanted a longer cable - so I think I'm just going to cut the cable and solder/ splice in the replacement cable with some heat shrink to cover it. If that fails - I guess apple is going to get 80 bucks from me. I'm not going to risk a cheap-o 3rd party power brick frying my MacBook Air.
perfect tutorial!! Congratulations!!
Just did mine in about an hours time total- including getting the tools out and finding a few things.I also put white shrink wrap on both ends of the new cord to add a bit of strain relief. That way I don't have to replace it so soon again. I ordered two cords so I'll have one already the next time it dies. As a bonus I used the heat gun to help when splitting the two halves. That way mine came apparat easier and there wasn't any rough edges or damage.
+2204JCM Nice. Well done :) My sister's fiancé is using mine at the mo.
+2204JCM what do you mean by "splitting the two halves"? you mean opening the power supply only with a heat gun, in order to avoid cracking the clips, hence not using super glue?
Great job, very detailed and so helpful, thank you soop much
Did that glue hold? What the hell I have never heard of super glue that works after more than 30 seconds of air exposure.
Thanks for this. Really helpful.
after watching this, I just decided to buy a new charger
+Sang Won Lee Don't give up as soon as it's a little bit complicated :)
+Dave Adriaanse yeah make first diagnose before judgment and make to save a money.
You are definitely right.
After having five or six of them go down (we have quite a few MBP at home and more at work), buying new ones sounds less attractive. We repair them in bulk.
yes me too
nice closeups!! very helpful thanks!
I please i need your help,my power supply is working but is not charging and i have change the cable but still not charging please help me
can we cut the wire form half and join the cable black with black and white with white
Hi Sir, Thanks for your tutorial, i manage to fix/repair my one :)
very helpful, thanks for uploading
Thank you so much, you have inspired me to fix my own and save some money. Great video too.
Hi Could AintBigAintClever please supplier a link to the trusted eBay seller for the cable - also how much would you expect a computer repair shop to cost to install - thanks in advance.
Excellent video - helped me to fix my charger this evening :-)
This is the best video to repair the mac charger. I ordered mine from eBay. I'm little confused about the wire that I got. the wire in the charger is black and white the white one with green tip. Should I solder the red one where the green one placed.
This is the best video to repair the Mac charger. my question is I got wire which is black and red. The cord from the charger is one wire is black and the other one is white with a green color tip of the wire. Is the red one goes with green one
Thnaks for the useful information. Congratulations!
hi do you know or can confirm if back is the negative and white is positive? thanks great video. :)
You're welcome, thanks for the comment! :)
Good tip. Tricky to get hold of hypos though, I tried asking at the local chemist because I needed to precisely apply paint to a scratch on the car, no chance!
Thanks a lot for the video!T'was really cool using the methos
Great video, very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks, just repaired the power adapter after following the instructions of the video, can't get it wrong. Cost of the cable on Amazon: 8€. I owe you the 80-90€ I saved.
Nice one. You make it look easy - mine came apart even easier! :)