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Hi Mick, unless you were adding to an existing load on the breaker i.e. lights, cooling fans, tools etc. and you exceeded the breaker rating, this should not have happened. If it was only the compressor switched on, then this could be caused by what is known as inrush current. High reactance loads like big transformers, motors and capacative (condensor) loads will pull higher current for milliseconds at startup. You have found a solution but SGS should be notified. If that compressor is rated at 13A and expected to run on domestic mains they should modify the equipment by adding an inrush current limiter device. Your sparks has added a similar device to your supply board, but the equipment should run at the notified rated current without tripping existing circuits. If you had that compressor in your van and you were mobile doing repairs, you wouldn't expect customers to have uprated mains RCD's
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I used to be an electrician in a previous life. I put my garage on a ring main as providing your incoming cable is big enough you can get away with 32 amp breaker. If your incoming cable is say 2.5 mm and a distance from the house I would be a little wary of using 32 amp. I would do what you have done and put the compressor on a separate 20amp breaker but make it a close as possible to the consumer unit so only a short cable run. Never keen on a 20 breaker on the end of a run of sockets even if in theory it is ok. For me as long as you have the correct breaker protecting your underground cable to your outbuilding you won’t go far wrong as it will protect everything. But good video as many people will think they have a faulty compressor. Also got my grey cells working and brought back memories when I was on the tools.
Good video Mick, and glad to see the compressor issue resolved. Not familiar with the UK electrical code but, we size the breaker to the wire gage and also the wire run distance, longer the run the larger the wire gage, they have line loss charts on line.
It's the same here in the UK, we use a physical size not like a gauge rating, so we would use 1.5mm(sq) cable for lights and 10mm(sq) cable for showers etc. We also take in consideration if the wire is also embedded in insulation or in conduit vs open air over the length for thickness and protection rating
That is a nice compressor. At 14 CFM you could run a spry gun with that. I can see why you will need at least 20 amps to run it. On a cold day it may need more. Nice set up Mick. Stevo
I use a surge protection Eliminate Surges, Spikes. Some compressors depending the size when at first start it uses its full amps to power up then drops off .
Could be a few things, what I don't get is the fuse in the 13a plug didn't blow first as that is less than the 16a mcb/rcd, this to me means its probably a faulty mcb/rcd in reaction time, most are a "c16 b" so it's a bit slower and should trip around 50a at a few microseconds and as the video says the varient " C" is even slower. What concern me in this video he says his cables are rated for 20a, so the mcb in the house should be a 16a to protect the cable going to the shed, this is because the mcb/rcd/fuse won't blow at 16a but around 1.3times that (20.8amp) is where it will trip, if he has a 20amp fuse or mcb in the house that will trip/open circuit at 26amps, so his 32amp mcb/rcd in the shed is technically "no protection" at that actual point, however if the mcb/rcd in the house is a 32amp then that's a problem, as this won't trip until like 40amps which as he said his cable is only rated for 20amps, this can make that long cable a large resistive wire heating up and may cause a fire before a direct short-circuit happens then tripping the mcb/rcd. I'm no qualified electrician but fuses, mcb, rcd, rcbo's etc are designed to protect the wires not the equipment, I have something called common sense when doing research. So that being said what in my opinion should have been done is exchanged the "c16b" for a "c16c or d" this protection for short circuit of upto 20amps at his shed keeping his wires going to the house safe too
First of all it doesn't matter whether your sockets are connected A16 amp breaker that will not work all sockets are 13 amp but if that compressor says runs off 13 amp it should run off 13 amp if not it's fake advertisement I've had this problem before with my compressors you will need a 16 amp surpply and a breaker are they 16 amp Plug any compressor what's over 50 l will need a 16 amp supply my name is Ashley I like your channel as .
I wired all my compressors with a dedicated circuit, hard wired in thier own box. they all have a their own wire, and in house circut breaker 30amp....and I never run more then one at a time.
@@themowerman that is the truth about that matter thing is different types of electric motors require different amps at start up depending on the horsepower of the motor
Personally I wudda put in a 30a breaker to ensure I was giving it a margin. Better too much than too little or bare enuf - not much difference in the price.
Here is my channel wish list if you would like to show some support in purchasing some tools or spare parts, it is gratefully appreciated www.amazon.co.uk/hz/wishlist/ls/13BO7QKGAZZV2/ref=nav_wishlist_lists_2?_encoding=UTF8&type=wishlist
Hi Mick, unless you were adding to an existing load on the breaker i.e. lights, cooling fans, tools etc. and you exceeded the breaker rating, this should not have happened. If it was only the compressor switched on, then this could be caused by what is known as inrush current. High reactance loads like big transformers, motors and capacative (condensor) loads will pull higher current for milliseconds at startup. You have found a solution but SGS should be notified. If that compressor is rated at 13A and expected to run on domestic mains they should modify the equipment by adding an inrush current limiter device. Your sparks has added a similar device to your supply board, but the equipment should run at the notified rated current without tripping existing circuits. If you had that compressor in your van and you were mobile doing repairs, you wouldn't expect customers to have uprated mains RCD's
That's a good point...
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Great to see you have got it all up and running now Mick 👍👍👍👍
I used to be an electrician in a previous life. I put my garage on a ring main as providing your incoming cable is big enough you can get away with 32 amp breaker. If your incoming cable is say 2.5 mm and a distance from the house I would be a little wary of using 32 amp. I would do what you have done and put the compressor on a separate 20amp breaker but make it a close as possible to the consumer unit so only a short cable run. Never keen on a 20 breaker on the end of a run of sockets even if in theory it is ok. For me as long as you have the correct breaker protecting your underground cable to your outbuilding you won’t go far wrong as it will protect everything. But good video as many people will think they have a faulty compressor. Also got my grey cells working and brought back memories when I was on the tools.
Thanks for watching.. yes I'm got to add a stocket just for the compressor.. the others are on a ring main...
Yeah, do the same thing you did. I got a better breaker in there. An it don't pop the breakers anymore. Thank you for the video
Fantastic...
Good advice about the startup current spike.
Also, if you need air farther away,it is better to get a longer hose than to use an extension cord. 😊
Good advice mate
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Glad it was able to be fix there mick with the bigger Amp to allow the initial startup
It's running great...
Good video Mick, and glad to see the compressor issue resolved. Not familiar with the UK electrical code but, we size the breaker to the wire gage and also the wire run distance, longer the run the larger the wire gage, they have line loss charts on line.
It's the same here in the UK, we use a physical size not like a gauge rating, so we would use 1.5mm(sq) cable for lights and 10mm(sq) cable for showers etc. We also take in consideration if the wire is also embedded in insulation or in conduit vs open air over the length for thickness and protection rating
I have slow blow circuit breakers on mine, works like a charm. 🙂
I don't have that problem with my baby air compresor. Interesting video and very helpfull for people who upgrade.
Thanks mate
Nice and it just purrs away 👍🏻 Great Setup Mick
Thanks mate
Funny - I had the same issue with my hydraulic, remote comtrolled, totally awesome, in floor lift table 🙂
That is a nice compressor. At 14 CFM you could run a spry gun with that. I can see why you will need at least 20 amps to run it. On a cold day it may need more. Nice set up Mick. Stevo
I use a surge protection Eliminate Surges, Spikes. Some compressors depending the size when at first start it uses its full amps to power up then drops off .
Good fix my friend
Good job better safe than sorry.
Yes mate
Good one again Mick
Thanks mate
Could be a few things, what I don't get is the fuse in the 13a plug didn't blow first as that is less than the 16a mcb/rcd, this to me means its probably a faulty mcb/rcd in reaction time, most are a "c16 b" so it's a bit slower and should trip around 50a at a few microseconds and as the video says the varient " C" is even slower.
What concern me in this video he says his cables are rated for 20a, so the mcb in the house should be a 16a to protect the cable going to the shed, this is because the mcb/rcd/fuse won't blow at 16a but around 1.3times that (20.8amp) is where it will trip, if he has a 20amp fuse or mcb in the house that will trip/open circuit at 26amps, so his 32amp mcb/rcd in the shed is technically "no protection" at that actual point, however if the mcb/rcd in the house is a 32amp then that's a problem, as this won't trip until like 40amps which as he said his cable is only rated for 20amps, this can make that long cable a large resistive wire heating up and may cause a fire before a direct short-circuit happens then tripping the mcb/rcd.
I'm no qualified electrician but fuses, mcb, rcd, rcbo's etc are designed to protect the wires not the equipment, I have something called common sense when doing research.
So that being said what in my opinion should have been done is exchanged the "c16b" for a "c16c or d" this protection for short circuit of upto 20amps at his shed keeping his wires going to the house safe too
Now you’ve had the air compressor for awhile. How are you getting on with it?
It's perfect...
Mick, Is the voltage in the shed 240v?
Yes mate
First of all it doesn't matter whether your sockets are connected A16 amp breaker that will not work all sockets are 13 amp but if that compressor says runs off 13 amp it should run off 13 amp if not it's fake advertisement I've had this problem before with my compressors you will need a 16 amp surpply and a breaker are they 16 amp Plug any compressor what's over 50 l will need a 16 amp supply my name is Ashley I like your channel as .
It would be best to put a socket right next to your compressor mick.
Yeah I think I will do that ...
I wired all my compressors with a dedicated circuit, hard wired in thier own box. they all have a their own wire, and in house circut breaker 30amp....and I never run more then one at a time.
Capacitor can be weak, even new. The breaker in the panel can be weak. Have someone test the draw on both. Replace what is needed.
Just change the b type to c type rcds??
C type have a better trip curve designed for motors with a high in rush of current.
How 2 amps are causing the breaker to trip 😮
It's the first start up.. pushing it over 16amps...
@@themowerman that is the truth about that matter thing is different types of electric motors require different amps at start up depending on the horsepower of the motor
Sorry I couldn't watch this inordinately long video for a simple fix
Ok but thanks for the comment
Sparky? I thought that meant something else!!
Like what ken.. please explain 🤔
Holy hell, get to the point. No need for a 13 minute video for a 13 second explanation.
Did you watch it all.. ?
Personally I wudda put in a 30a breaker to ensure I was giving it a margin. Better too much than too little or bare enuf - not much difference in the price.
Like I said.. I'm not a professional.. however my electrician is...
Please nobody take this guys advice. How do you know the current carrying capacity of the cable is rated for 30a?? Leave it to the experts 😉
Shocking that Mick. You can plug your Jack Hammer in now. 👍🔧
Lol will do mate