Here is the bolt-by-bolt DIY video for the CV axle removal and replacement, and transmission seal removal and replacement: ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html Good luck with your repair!
Your rav4 videos are awesome!! I've been referencing your content as I try and get my 99 rav4 in tip top shape. Seeing that leak on the cross member made so much sense to me. I had a leak thinking it was my oil pump...then oil pan...then valve cover. It was atf!! Shouldve known. Next we are trying to diagnose a horrible grinding noise coming from the cam. Some people say it may be the "scissor gears" and the service hole not lining up? Do you have any experience with this?
Thank you! Yes, that ATF leak is either the shaft seal (if you have an automatic), or the power steering system (if you have a manual). To eliminate the power steering system, check the pinion seal on the top of the steering rack: just follow the steering shaft out through the firewall, then look at the steering rack for any ATF. There is a seal at the top of the rack there that can leak, and it also makes a serious mess! And the power steering system is ATF, too, so it can cause confusion. Here is what I mean: www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/ As for the head: yes, the two cams are linked by a gear system which includes a scissor gear. If the cams are removed and the gear is not locked in place with a service bolt before removal, then when it is re-installed, it will not be aligned properly. Here is a video from @Aussie50 that discusses this briefly: ruclips.net/video/8gsBHHHzUTI/видео.html As far as I know, this only happens if someone has previously been in there, removed the cams, and accidentally missed this step (for example, if someone did the valve stem seals, you have to remove the cams to get to the valve stem seals, so they might not have properly aligned the gears before removing the cams). If you're hearing grinding from the cams, I would definitely remove the valve cover and have a look.
Mine is not leaking but the driver side cv axle is wiggly in the transmission side and makes a noise while accelerating, (not in coasting), is there a bearing or something that it can be replaced just by taking that plate seal cover? thank you.
Wow, 250K miles! That is great. I had to replace mine at just over 200K miles. It is not a bad job, if you'd like to do it yourself. Here's the DIY video: ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html Good luck!
@@L35inColorado yup i just saw your full video, liked! And pretty good, gonna change those front brakes too, but mine is a manual, but looks very similar is a FWD, but is a good car, i notice as long i use lucas AT fluid it works good.
Really good video!! Never seen a better documented how to video - really like the paused pictures to see whats going on! Good work on the video and car!thanks
Hi, I LOVE your videos! I have a 1999 Rav4, 4WD, with 140k on it, only had it a few months and I am trying to fix everything on it. I did the whole timing belt project just like you did. All the seals. Now I have another leak, it's towards the drivers side, and it's engine oil, it drips to the ground from the transfer case area, after looking around for 20 min. with a bright light all I can detect is that there is oil laying in a small puddle on top of the transfer case. It's too hard to see where it is coming from without starting to take things apart, I don't think it is the valve cover gasket as I can feel all the way around the valve cover and it is dry. Can you give me any idea where it could be coming from? Thank you so much.
Hey, I'm sorry I missed this comment (youtube had it on review for some reason). Yes -- for that leak, there is a good chance that its not oil, but rather power steering fluid. The factory power steering fluid in the Rav4 is actually undyed ATF (automatic transmission fluid). It looks like engine oil (dark), but it smells like ATF (stinky/chemically). Smell the oil, and compare the smell to engine oil: if its not engine oil, then its probably power steering fluid (ATF) from the pinion seal on the top of the steering rack. Here are some pictures and a full DIY for replacing that seal, if its leaking: www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/ If its ATF, but its not from the power steering system, then check your drive shaft (transmission) seals. These can leak, and if you have a manual transmission, the fluid will be stinky gear oil; if you have an automatic, it will be stinky ATF. Here's an inspection video for the transmission seals: ruclips.net/video/FzBbz-O7ePI/видео.html If its engine oil, then I'd check seal on the left side of the head/right where the head and valve cover meet, at the short end: pre-98 Rav4's had distributors, and Toyota didn't redesign the head when they removed the distributor. So on that side of the head (LHS), there is a big "moon" seal that serves as a plug for the old distributor design. That plug can dry out and leak: if its leaking, the leak will mostly occur when the engine is running, and it will run down the back of the head and all over, depending on how much it's leaking. Thanks again for your comment, and again I apologize for missing it! Post back with what you find, and good luck!
@@L35inColorado You hit the nail on the head with your 3rd suggestion, it was the block off plug for the old distributor, I met a 25 year Toyota mechanic that is layed off because of Corona, he took my car to his house and checked it and had me order a new valve cover gasket and a round metal block off plate and another small gasket and put all that stuff on and it's fine now. Thank you so much. I'm in PA. Wish you were close to me, you would be my mechanic! Take care.
@@jlc7300 I'm glad to hear that! Again, I'm sorry that I missed your comment. Hopefully the mechanic will get back to work soon (I'm peanuts compared to a 25 year Toyota mechanic, so keep in touch with him -- he sounds like a great person to know!). I'm glad your Rav4 is leak-free, too. Take care and thanks for watching!
Our 08 Rav with 221,000 miles the rear axle driver side seal started to drip. Thank you nice video. Our local shop said $180 labor if not too rusty & new dealer seal. We bought SUV pre owned Toyota certified with 3300 miles.
Thank you for the comment -- that sounds like a reasonable price to me, overall, or a rear diff seal. They will drain the rear diff and re-fill with new fluid, and a rear diff oil change alone is usually about $100 at a shop, so replacing the seal for that price sounds reasonable. And that's great that you have 221K miles on your '08! Toyotas are good machines!
Hi! No - the seals are different - here's a look at the passenger side seal on an AWD (this link should take you to the right spot in the video - it not, skip to 1hr 1min 40 second mark): ruclips.net/video/7OkJwebxdz8/видео.html And here's a look at the driver's side on an AWD: ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html I hope that helps : )
Looking at changing a axle seal on automatic 2011 rav4. It’s AWD with a transfer assy. When removing the axle will you lose gear oil from the transfer unit or ATF?
Which axle seal, the left side or the right side? I haven't don'e a '11 Rav4 but I have read that the right side axle can be a real pain because of "locator pins" that Toyota used to secure it (not just the typical c-clip style, apparently). Here's a thread to check out if you're doing the '11 right (passenger) side axle: www.rav4world.com/threads/stuck-passenger-cv-axle-please-help.292121/ That right (passenger) side axle is very long, too, and there's a carrier bracket & bearing to deal with, which can loads of fun, haha. As for the left side (driver's), the driver's side looks like a typical Toyota transaxle setup, where the left side (driver's) shaft enters the transaxle, as seen in this video. In that case, you'll lose a little ATF, but not much if you work efficiently. Check your ATF level before you open it up: then, measure what you lost during the repair, or if you can't do that (or forget to), then just top off the ATF level to the correct point on the dipstick. The loss should be pretty minimal. Also, in general you can tell the difference between ATF and gear oil (gear oil is what would be in a transfer case) by the look, color, viscosity, and *especially* the smell. Gear oil is what you'd get from a transfer case, and gear oil STINKS -- it smells bad and is a higher viscosity oil than ATF; gear oil also usually has a bit of light/lime green-ish color. Toyota ATF is dyed red (though it ages to be brown-ish or maroon-brown) and has the typical ATF smell and has a lower viscosity than gear oil. I hope that helps! Be sure to check out the 4.3 forum on www.rav4world.com ("4.3" is what your generation is Rav4 is called on that site) for other tips and help from owners. You can also search that site for tips, or make a post for help. The people on the forum are very knowledgeable and helpful. Good luck!
Doing the RH side. Can confirm it sucks lol Bearing was seized into the bracket. Took 6 hours of screwing around. Finally the axle bearing separated from the bracket and it came out easy after that. That link you sent pretty much shares all the same battles I fealty with. Unfortunately Toyota sold us a pinion seal instead of a axle seal and we had to put it back together. Cleaned and shined everything back up and should be much easier to do next time. The little spring inside the seal came out with the axle. Could not get it back in for the life of me. Any tricks for that? Also any tricks for popping the seal out and a new seal in.
@@L35inColorado also we didn’t lose any fluid really. Just some drips but nothing crazy. Still Not entirely sure if it was dirty gear oil or old ATF. Forgot to smell it lol if I had to guess. It seemed like gear oil.
@@Casry12345 Yes, those little circular springs on the inside of the seals sometimes pop out. As far as getting it back in place -- I suppose it's just a matter of patience, luck, and dexterity to get it back in there! Your new seal will come with a new spring in place, so I always put a bit of MP grease on that spring to prevent it from popping out when I install it. The seal will eventually leak at the shaft without that spring, and likely it will leak pretty quickly. As for removing the seal -- I haven't done the '11 Rav4 passenger side, but if it is like a typical axle seal, there might be a baffle behind it, and you'll want to leave the baffle in there (I don't know if there's a baffle on your model or not). You can sometimes feel it by reaching your finger in there to see if there's anything behind the seal. I either use a pry just behind the seal to pop it out, or I use a slide hammer with the seal puller attachment (a little hook) if there's not enough room for a pry; if it's really tight, you can use the screw method and drive a screw or two into the old seal and then pry/rock the seal out. This video below shows how I removed the seal on a '00 Rav4 drivers side (so it will be different than your '11), but it's something to look at, if it helps -- this link should skip you right to the seal removal part of the video, but if it doesn't, check the Pinned Comment for the right spot to skip ahead: ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html Thanks for posting the update! I'm sorry that you have to re-do everything, but like you said, it should be much easier the second time. Maybe you can record it and make a youtube video!
I'm not sure -- it can be done in an hour, and the seal is about $15, plus some ATF to replace the fluid that leaks out. So I would say a shop might charge $150 - $200 if it's just to replace the seal, and not the CV axle too (no extra labor for replacement of the CV axle because that has to come out anyway, but obviously the part prices go up a lot if the CV axle is replaced too). This is a job that can be done by a mobile mechanic on the street (I've done it before myself on a residental street), and mobile mechanics are often more reasonable with labor rates because they have much less overhead, so you might try a reputable mobile mechanic. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for answering my question. There is an auto auction tomorrow with an 1999 Rav4 automatic the only thing I could see wrong with it was the coolant leaking from the radiator so I know that it will need a new one and hoses replaced. So I am trying to see if it would be worth getting and fixing. The only thing that scares me if if they drove it with low coolant and blew the head gasket. I will repost tomorrow to let you know if I was able to buy it. Thank you again for your time and effort you put into making these videos showing us how to do it ourselves.
Here is the bolt-by-bolt DIY video for the CV axle removal and replacement, and transmission seal removal and replacement:
ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html
Good luck with your repair!
Your rav4 videos are awesome!! I've been referencing your content as I try and get my 99 rav4 in tip top shape. Seeing that leak on the cross member made so much sense to me. I had a leak thinking it was my oil pump...then oil pan...then valve cover. It was atf!! Shouldve known. Next we are trying to diagnose a horrible grinding noise coming from the cam. Some people say it may be the "scissor gears" and the service hole not lining up? Do you have any experience with this?
Thank you! Yes, that ATF leak is either the shaft seal (if you have an automatic), or the power steering system (if you have a manual). To eliminate the power steering system, check the pinion seal on the top of the steering rack: just follow the steering shaft out through the firewall, then look at the steering rack for any ATF. There is a seal at the top of the rack there that can leak, and it also makes a serious mess! And the power steering system is ATF, too, so it can cause confusion. Here is what I mean:
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/
As for the head: yes, the two cams are linked by a gear system which includes a scissor gear. If the cams are removed and the gear is not locked in place with a service bolt before removal, then when it is re-installed, it will not be aligned properly. Here is a video from @Aussie50 that discusses this briefly:
ruclips.net/video/8gsBHHHzUTI/видео.html
As far as I know, this only happens if someone has previously been in there, removed the cams, and accidentally missed this step (for example, if someone did the valve stem seals, you have to remove the cams to get to the valve stem seals, so they might not have properly aligned the gears before removing the cams). If you're hearing grinding from the cams, I would definitely remove the valve cover and have a look.
Hi,do you have the number of the passenger side oil seal?
Mine is not leaking but the driver side cv axle is wiggly in the transmission side and makes a noise while accelerating, (not in coasting), is there a bearing or something that it can be replaced just by taking that plate seal cover? thank you.
Mine has 250,000 miles i wanna change it, it has been leaking so much, i had to pour a full bottle a month, have to replace those seals
Wow, 250K miles! That is great. I had to replace mine at just over 200K miles. It is not a bad job, if you'd like to do it yourself. Here's the DIY video:
ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado yup i just saw your full video, liked! And pretty good, gonna change those front brakes too, but mine is a manual, but looks very similar is a FWD, but is a good car, i notice as long i use lucas AT fluid it works good.
@@島袋誠-z6k Very cool! Good luck with your repairs, and thanks for sharing the tip!
Really good video!! Never seen a better documented how to video - really like the paused pictures to see whats going on! Good work on the video and car!thanks
Thank you, I'm very glad that it helped!
Hi, I LOVE your videos! I have a 1999 Rav4, 4WD, with 140k on it, only had it a few months and I am trying to fix everything on it. I did the whole timing belt project just like you did. All the seals. Now I have another leak, it's towards the drivers side, and it's engine oil, it drips to the ground from the transfer case area, after looking around for 20 min. with a bright light all I can detect is that there is oil laying in a small puddle on top of the transfer case. It's too hard to see where it is coming from without starting to take things apart, I don't think it is the valve cover gasket as I can feel all the way around the valve cover and it is dry. Can you give me any idea where it could be coming from? Thank you so much.
Hey, I'm sorry I missed this comment (youtube had it on review for some reason). Yes -- for that leak, there is a good chance that its not oil, but rather power steering fluid. The factory power steering fluid in the Rav4 is actually undyed ATF (automatic transmission fluid). It looks like engine oil (dark), but it smells like ATF (stinky/chemically). Smell the oil, and compare the smell to engine oil: if its not engine oil, then its probably power steering fluid (ATF) from the pinion seal on the top of the steering rack. Here are some pictures and a full DIY for replacing that seal, if its leaking:
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/
If its ATF, but its not from the power steering system, then check your drive shaft (transmission) seals. These can leak, and if you have a manual transmission, the fluid will be stinky gear oil; if you have an automatic, it will be stinky ATF. Here's an inspection video for the transmission seals:
ruclips.net/video/FzBbz-O7ePI/видео.html
If its engine oil, then I'd check seal on the left side of the head/right where the head and valve cover meet, at the short end: pre-98 Rav4's had distributors, and Toyota didn't redesign the head when they removed the distributor. So on that side of the head (LHS), there is a big "moon" seal that serves as a plug for the old distributor design. That plug can dry out and leak: if its leaking, the leak will mostly occur when the engine is running, and it will run down the back of the head and all over, depending on how much it's leaking.
Thanks again for your comment, and again I apologize for missing it! Post back with what you find, and good luck!
@@L35inColorado You hit the nail on the head with your 3rd suggestion, it was the block off plug for the old distributor, I met a 25 year Toyota mechanic that is layed off because of Corona, he took my car to his house and checked it and had me order a new valve cover gasket and a round metal block off plate and another small gasket and put all that stuff on and it's fine now. Thank you so much. I'm in PA. Wish you were close to me, you would be my mechanic! Take care.
@@jlc7300 I'm glad to hear that! Again, I'm sorry that I missed your comment. Hopefully the mechanic will get back to work soon (I'm peanuts compared to a 25 year Toyota mechanic, so keep in touch with him -- he sounds like a great person to know!). I'm glad your Rav4 is leak-free, too. Take care and thanks for watching!
Our 08 Rav with 221,000 miles the rear axle driver side seal started to drip. Thank you nice video. Our local shop said $180 labor if not too rusty & new dealer seal. We bought SUV pre owned Toyota certified with 3300 miles.
Thank you for the comment -- that sounds like a reasonable price to me, overall, or a rear diff seal. They will drain the rear diff and re-fill with new fluid, and a rear diff oil change alone is usually about $100 at a shop, so replacing the seal for that price sounds reasonable. And that's great that you have 221K miles on your '08! Toyotas are good machines!
@@L35inColorado My goal is to get to 300,000! Rav has the most mileage ever own. NJ harsh Winters with salt rear axles very rusty.
@@HB-yq8gy That's very cool, you're on track for sure!
Hi! is the driver side and
passenger side axle seal the same?
Hi! No - the seals are different - here's a look at the passenger side seal on an AWD (this link should take you to the right spot in the video - it not, skip to 1hr 1min 40 second mark):
ruclips.net/video/7OkJwebxdz8/видео.html
And here's a look at the driver's side on an AWD:
ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html
I hope that helps : )
Lovyou 🙌✨️
I suppose I'll go take a look at this since I'm about to replace the CV axles anyway.
By to
Looking at changing a axle seal on automatic 2011 rav4. It’s AWD with a transfer assy. When removing the axle will you lose gear oil from the transfer unit or ATF?
Which axle seal, the left side or the right side?
I haven't don'e a '11 Rav4 but I have read that the right side axle can be a real pain because of "locator pins" that Toyota used to secure it (not just the typical c-clip style, apparently). Here's a thread to check out if you're doing the '11 right (passenger) side axle:
www.rav4world.com/threads/stuck-passenger-cv-axle-please-help.292121/
That right (passenger) side axle is very long, too, and there's a carrier bracket & bearing to deal with, which can loads of fun, haha.
As for the left side (driver's), the driver's side looks like a typical Toyota transaxle setup, where the left side (driver's) shaft enters the transaxle, as seen in this video. In that case, you'll lose a little ATF, but not much if you work efficiently. Check your ATF level before you open it up: then, measure what you lost during the repair, or if you can't do that (or forget to), then just top off the ATF level to the correct point on the dipstick. The loss should be pretty minimal.
Also, in general you can tell the difference between ATF and gear oil (gear oil is what would be in a transfer case) by the look, color, viscosity, and *especially* the smell. Gear oil is what you'd get from a transfer case, and gear oil STINKS -- it smells bad and is a higher viscosity oil than ATF; gear oil also usually has a bit of light/lime green-ish color.
Toyota ATF is dyed red (though it ages to be brown-ish or maroon-brown) and has the typical ATF smell and has a lower viscosity than gear oil.
I hope that helps! Be sure to check out the 4.3 forum on www.rav4world.com ("4.3" is what your generation is Rav4 is called on that site) for other tips and help from owners. You can also search that site for tips, or make a post for help. The people on the forum are very knowledgeable and helpful. Good luck!
Doing the RH side. Can confirm it sucks lol
Bearing was seized into the bracket. Took 6 hours of screwing around. Finally the axle bearing separated from the bracket and it came out easy after that. That link you sent pretty much shares all the same battles I fealty with. Unfortunately Toyota sold us a pinion seal instead of a axle seal and we had to put it back together. Cleaned and shined everything back up and should be much easier to do next time.
The little spring inside the seal came out with the axle. Could not get it back in for the life of me.
Any tricks for that? Also any tricks for popping the seal out and a new seal in.
@@L35inColorado also we didn’t lose any fluid really. Just some drips but nothing crazy. Still Not entirely sure if it was dirty gear oil or old ATF. Forgot to smell it lol if I had to guess. It seemed like gear oil.
@@Casry12345 Yes, those little circular springs on the inside of the seals sometimes pop out. As far as getting it back in place -- I suppose it's just a matter of patience, luck, and dexterity to get it back in there! Your new seal will come with a new spring in place, so I always put a bit of MP grease on that spring to prevent it from popping out when I install it. The seal will eventually leak at the shaft without that spring, and likely it will leak pretty quickly.
As for removing the seal -- I haven't done the '11 Rav4 passenger side, but if it is like a typical axle seal, there might be a baffle behind it, and you'll want to leave the baffle in there (I don't know if there's a baffle on your model or not). You can sometimes feel it by reaching your finger in there to see if there's anything behind the seal. I either use a pry just behind the seal to pop it out, or I use a slide hammer with the seal puller attachment (a little hook) if there's not enough room for a pry; if it's really tight, you can use the screw method and drive a screw or two into the old seal and then pry/rock the seal out.
This video below shows how I removed the seal on a '00 Rav4 drivers side (so it will be different than your '11), but it's something to look at, if it helps -- this link should skip you right to the seal removal part of the video, but if it doesn't, check the Pinned Comment for the right spot to skip ahead:
ruclips.net/video/HOcu3zuq1AY/видео.html
Thanks for posting the update! I'm sorry that you have to re-do everything, but like you said, it should be much easier the second time. Maybe you can record it and make a youtube video!
How much does it cost to do this repair on a 1999 Rav 4 with Automatic transmission?
I'm not sure -- it can be done in an hour, and the seal is about $15, plus some ATF to replace the fluid that leaks out. So I would say a shop might charge $150 - $200 if it's just to replace the seal, and not the CV axle too (no extra labor for replacement of the CV axle because that has to come out anyway, but obviously the part prices go up a lot if the CV axle is replaced too). This is a job that can be done by a mobile mechanic on the street (I've done it before myself on a residental street), and mobile mechanics are often more reasonable with labor rates because they have much less overhead, so you might try a reputable mobile mechanic. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for answering my question. There is an auto auction tomorrow with an 1999 Rav4 automatic the only thing I could see wrong with it was the coolant leaking from the radiator so I know that it will need a new one and hoses replaced. So I am trying to see if it would be worth getting and fixing. The only thing that scares me if if they drove it with low coolant and blew the head gasket. I will repost tomorrow to let you know if I was able to buy it. Thank you again for your time and effort you put into making these videos showing us how to do it ourselves.
@@AB-hu4fc Okay, well good luck!
@@L35inColorado I was out bided on it but ended up getting a 1994 Aucra Legend L for $710