Self Rescue from a Crevasse: Modern Rope Ascent
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- Опубликовано: 13 апр 2021
- This video shows updated techniques for escaping from a crevasse after a crevasse fall. Using a Petzl Microtraction pre-rigged on the rope it becomes simple and efficient to self-rescue from a crevasse without the use of prusiks. Rigging the Microtraction in this manner also makes it possible to quickly build a 3:1 system to hoist yourself over the lip of a crevasse if you are having difficulty. When doing partner rescue having the Mictrotraction pre-rigged on the rope also speeds up the construction of a three-to-one pulley system on the surface for pulling a rope team member our of a crevasse.
Your videos are the most informative I have found of all the climbing information on the web.
Great Video!
Amazing explanation loved how much more efficient the whole process can be by simply having the microtraxion already on you before you even start the climb, could even be worth doing so when following a harder pitch on a multipitch scenario
Hello! Do you have the microtraction already installed on the rope? Or do you install it when you begin the self-rescue from the crevasse? Greetings from Chile!!!
Use a tibloc rather than the prusik.. so much easier to pass knots. Awesome video!!
However, as you said, you were using what you had. The autoblock was for a rappell back up..
Would have been nice to have added that three in one pulley system as a video segment versus the text at the end.
Could do a redirect of the strand from the microtraxion through the carabiner for the leg loop so instead of pulling up on the rope you're pulling down?
Could you make a video of the 3:1 thing? That would be great! Apreciate your work! :)
Was wondering the same.
RUclips “RADS climbing”
If for some reason you needed to escape this set up and rappel back down, how would you do that efficiently & safely?
What I've done is to stand up on the foot loop then clip my harness into the autoblock. (Or whatever your upper ascending device is.) Using a quick draw to extend your harness should make this easier and helps set you up for rappelling. You can then "sit" in the harness and take the weight off the Micro Traxion and create some slack. After making sure you have a back up tie in, you should be able to remove the Micro Traxion and put on a rappel device below the autoblock. Remove the back up tie in and you're ready to go. Well maybe. If you're using an auto block, you should be able to release it under load and get the weight on to your rappel device. (A VT prusik works even better for this.) If you can't release the autoblock (or other device), you can stand up on the foot loop again, slide up the rappel device to get your weight on that to unload the autoblock. I might mention that a Tibloc (if that's what you're using) does not work well as a rappel back up and you would likely have to remove it. (They really only like to go in one direction!) I hope that makes sense. Obviously one should practice this in a safe environment first!
What happens to the rope if you were fall on the microtraxtion with teeth engaged?
I know you have it disengaged until you ascend, but couldn't the teeth accidently engage during travel or if you were to fall through a snow bridge? If this were to happen, I would imagine the rope would get shredded, and maybe you hit the ground?
@@skillsforclimbing thanks, Glen. I love the idea of having it in place and ready to go.
@@skillsforclimbing I imagine there's not much data on whether the microtraxion ever engages by accident during a crevasse fall, but the ease at which that button engages the teeth is enough for me to never have my microtraxion on the rope when I'm walking. It's easy enough to stand up onto your foot loop and clip in to the microtraxion when you start ascending.
Works great if you are the fallen climber, but wouldn’t the micro traxion be wasted if you are the rescuer? In that case, since it’s loaded with the weight if the fallen climber, it would be tough to release from that load line to re-attach to a new drop C down to the victim (I.e. if the load line is too dug into the lip to use for the rescue). So it’s worthless to the rescue and you need another microtraxion. Am I missing something? What’s the purpose of leaving the button off as you travel?
I wonder if he doesn't engage it because if he is the falling climber, it doesn't shock load the teeth and damage the rope.
He does have that Prussik that he could transfer the load to a picket. This would release the load off the traction. Remove it and use it how you wish.
The way I understood it each party member should have their own micro traxion as personal protection equipment
Each party member has their own Micro Traxion/Spoc device in this scenario.
@@rajanlliw which set up the same way would be hard for them (hanging down in the crevasse) to unweight and release from the load line to re-attach to the drop C. And that also assumes they aren’t injured and unable to assist their own rescue - which is why you are wanting to use the drop loop since they would otherwise have just ascended the rope as the video describes.