Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Growing Phragmipedium indoors - care & culture of South American slipper orchids
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2019
- #herebutnot #phragmipedium #orchids
Ecuagenera's tours of Phragmipediums in the wild...
Ecuadorian Phragmipediums in situ
• Phragmipedium in-situ ...
Phrag besseae in situ
• Ecuagenera tour
Phrag pearcei in situ
• Phramipedium pearceii ...
More Orchids & Phrags in South America
• Tour Ecuador with Ecua...
More links from herebutnot.com
Growing Phragmipedium - Care & Cultivation
herebutnot.com/...
Growing Aroids - Care & Culture in Dry Climates
herebutnot.com/...
Dustin this ,without doubt, the best video on Phragmipediums I have seen......including mine!!!
I listened to every word you said ...and I agree with all of them. If you have room just try to grow one in a deep rose pot they love them . As you know I just feed my phrags twice per year on a teaspoonful of
Fish, Blood and Bone so giving them a small amount every couple of months or so is a very sensible
addition. Thank you once again for the video......I came across it by accident....so glad I did!
Ed.
Ah - thank so much, Ed. Means a lot; I'm thrilled you found it informative and helpful as well. Looking forward to your next video as always
At one point I talk about the ideal pH for micropetalum and kovachii types being 7.9pH, and then I followed it up with a statement that I pH-adjust to 5.8. This is because acidifying alkaline water makes the calcium available to the plant. My tap water has a high pH because it’s loaded with calcium carbonate, acidifying that frees the calcium. In nature, natural processes (decay) and acidic rain would release calcium from the limestone rock...increasing the pH and buffering the water-because my water is already very alkaline, acidifying it simply ensures calcium is available to the plants.
If your water is already acidic, you need to supplement or add calcium for those specific species that come from alkaline environments.
I found your video googling fragmapedias leaving that cuz I'm using my car microphone that I'm very excited with my orchids that I just got from the Long Island orchid festival. And Ecuagena is one of the vendors there. I'm very happy with them. They are so helpful just like you said in your video. Thank you for this great video need to focus on the New York traffic! PS excited to watch your video when I get home. Listen to it in the car! Looking forward to watching your other videos! Thank you
Thank you so much for making this video! Beyond informative, and thanks for the shout out! I think my problem (with the droopy phrags) was definitely letting them dry out too much after repotting. They’re placed in a mix of orchid bark/sphagnum (mostly sphagnum at the top), and it got bone dry several times. In regards to the watering of the crown, unfortunately that doesn’t apply to me, but it’s great you mentioned the fertilizer, as I’ve also started using organic fertilizers. I feel as though I’m probably overfertilizing and the media lacks the mycorrhizae to break down the nutrients. So now my fertilizer is going to consist of approximately 50% organic/50% mineral fertilizer (very diluted, I’m guessing under 150ppm, no urea btw). I’m hoping that additional calcium + correct watering regimen will correct the drooping (for lack of better words lol). I learned a lot with this video, thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything!
Blue Aquatics - you bet! Glad the insights helped...I was hoping for something a little more fluid, but ran in to some technical difficulties so it ended up being a bit disorganized. I’m just glad it’s informative/helpful
Thank you for this very informative care guide on these types of Phrags. I’ve learned so much. I will watch the vid that you have recommended directly afterwards. I absolutely love to see how orchid’s and tropical plants of all types, grow in their natural habitats. Looking forward to more of your vids like this or similar.
REally Excellent!!! Just bought a long-form petal "Fireworks", so your tutorial helps. Thank you. Have subscribed b/c you are so knowledgeable.
Great job Dustin! I know this is an old video, but I got another phrag and I don’t want to kill another, so rewatching this video😂.
I couldn't say it better myself , great video and you look so good!!
Thanks Abran! I appreciate the compliment and kind words
This was such a great and informative video. I have a phrag Eric young, and although it's not dying it's also not thriving. I'm going to consider a lot of what you've shared and adjust accordingly.
Hi, I just found this and your blog. Beautiful. I had some Phrags a while ago. I want to try Phrags again.
Dustin, this is an excellent video. I found it very informative as I have 3 Phragmipediums coming (pearcei, sedenii, cardinale) to join my 25 Multifloral Paphiopedilums. I subscribed and look forward to more videos. Thanks for this one. It's great.
Very informative! I just got my first phrag. It’s much larger than I was expecting! Hoping I can get it to bloom
Yes, they can be pretty hefty plants; but I find them rewarding and suspect you will too if you can keep them happy under your conditions - Good Luck!
Very informative video...one that I paid attention to because I'm in Canada and I've got an ever expanding Phrag collection. Your Hanne Popow was the inspiration for the one I will receive this week. I did not know that they have a climbing habit but will keep that in mind.
I've tried the Ed's FBBM twice a year and all but my long petaled phrags love it. Phrag Fireworks developed some orange stains on the leaves and hasn't flowered since that application a while back. It has a good root system but once the growth matures, it starts concentrating on new growths instead of flowering. It's been repotted 6 months ago and I've noticed that it's putting out 5 new growths so hopefully it has enough energy to bloom next year.
I think that phrags will do well with just about any fertilizer as long as they are flushed regularly. The top dressing of sphagnum moss seems beneficial and I've tried growing them in lava rock, bark, clay pellets, etc without problems. I even tried semi hydro but finally decided to pot them traditionally. I think it would have worked but my feeling is they seem quite happy with regular repotting.
I am very curious to see how your kovachii species does. I am also trying to get more kovachii hybrids and hopefully Ecuagenera will bring good quality phrags next March to our orchid show.
Thanks for the info and really cute cat. Hope you do a video on Vanda care.
Thanks ResQuetzal! Not all Hanne Popow will be climbers...it's kind of luck of the draw and it depends on the phrag besseae used. Sounds like your phrags are doing very well - that's great, they are such wonderful plants. Rewarding!
Regarding Vanadas...I probably won't be doing a video on those for a LONG LONG LONG time...I have 4...but I cannot get them to bloom despite growing them in full sun at a south window, and another under LED lights. I love them, and they grow for me, but they just don't flower. So until I master that...I feel like it's a case of "the blind leading the blind" if I release a video about care when I have yet to master the genus. I hope you understand
@@HerebutNot
Seriously, I suggested that because I thought you had better luck with vandas than I did. I do have luck with Vanda Pachara Delight and Pine Rivers, which bloom for me at least 2Xs a year. What I am having problems with is Perreiraara Bangkok Sunset, which seems easy enough to bloom when you see other people's videos. I've tried summering outside in very bright light and still no success. I have a slew of other vanda seedlings that I bought from Clouds (aerides species and hybrids) and they are probably 5-10 years possibly from blooming...what was I thinking buy these things????
Perhaps with vandas, getting them to bloom has more to do with getting one that is cooperative. My flowering vandas get tap water but they do soaked overnight at least twice a week in summer and once in winter. There is fertilizer every 2nd watering. The 2 that bloom nevery stop growing no matter the season, but they are under lights in winter and that's it. Go figure.
Good luck with all your orchid collection!
Great video. My kovachii is finally putting out good root growth. A very slow starter. Really enjoyed your insights into culture. Thanks.
Thanks mph4me - I am definitely very excited about the kovachii...but based on how the hybrids have gone for me, I definitely find there is a period of "size on" that they need to go through...pumping out biomass before flowers. Hopefully mine establishes okay and I can see my first kovachii flower in person within the next year or two :O
Thank you so much for saying "orchid name" by "orchid name" instead of saying the word "times". So many people on youtube say "times". 🙄
Great video!! Thank you so much for you explaining and your experience. I have some phrags too, and i have the same problem with water, like 350 ppm. But they are growing good . Just adjust ph level.
Nice chanel !!!!👍🏻
Great video, as usual. This summer I ordered two phrags and a cattleya. I ordered Phrag Hanne Popow and Phrag Eumelia Arias, both kovachi hybrids from Euagenera. They all came without a label. I just wanted to say that my Phrag Hanne Popow is growing great and not climbing out of the pot. Do you think that perhaps my hanne popow isnt what I ordered. I have Phrag Holy Smoke which I bought in 2016 and phrag Inca Embers which I bought in about 2005 ish and these plants are still thriving. By the way, There were two plants in each bag so I ended up with four phrags. I have followed all your advise on growing all my summer growing phalaenopsis. And they are all thriving.Thanks for all your videos.
Mmmm-it could be that you just got a good hybrid with traits more from schlimii. That height jumping tends to happen in year 2 and 3 after the main growth is well established. So watch and see how it grows. If it’s compact…lucky you! It’s a keeper
Your videos are great, I literally watched them all today. I love your orchid collection, I have a small collection myself but I haven't managed to get them bloom just yet :( , hopefully things will get better after practicing some of your advices. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind feedback Brenda! I hope my advice helps you bloom those orchids - if you checkout my blog, I have additional care tips there (stuff that I haven't caught in video yet). This has been a very popular post - a lot of people have told me they found it helpful, so if you're looking for more orchid tips, give it a look: herebutnot.com/a-guide-to-phalaenopsis/
This video is awesome. Phrags and Disas are my favorite, but growing in florida is hard. I gave up on Disas just because the climate is impossible for me, but I have hope for growing phrags still.
I killed a Disa too - but one day I hope to give them a shot again. I honestly think phrags are one of the easiest species to care for provided you kind of understand that they need wet but airy roots. In the description of this video, I've included a bunch of links to phrags growing in the wild - watch them...they're really fricken cool and it gives you a crystal-clear image of what they grow like in nature
Hello. I am new to your channel but I love you knowledge and info. Looking for more.😀
Excellent video 👍🏼
So informative... thank you!
Are you involved in plant science academia at all? You have a talent for talking about the complexity of systems based ecology for orchids in really accessible ways. Great educational video. I have a Phragmipedium vampire slayer (sargentianum 'Fernbrook Red' x caricinum) and found a couple of things. I live in New England and grow outside June-September and indoors with LED panels the rest of the year. They really can handle a range of temperatures and do fine. From like 90 F + in the summer and down to mid-high 50s in the winter. Also your explanation about potting medium is astute. Most articles about them online say 'fast draining but moist' which really means nothing. I have mine in sphagnum, volcanic rock and bark chips and it took me a WHILE to get there. Saw something about them liking peat moss and perlite but that does not work for me. They also can tolerate way more light than I think articles online about them describe. I have my phrag receiving pretty intense light (around 3 hours of direct sun midday) and its is growing fast. I do wonder if this is because of my latitude however and think it would probably be different closer to the tropics.
Thanks for the kind words Solon - I am not involved in science academia, but I did go to university and have always had deep interest in nature, animals, and plants. I'm glad that my passion comes through for that...sometimes I worry that I ramble with the details too much rather than focusing on the high-level concepts.
I checked out the care for your Vampire Slayer, and it makes a bit of sense; both sargentianum & caricinum are lower-land (warm-growing) species. It's probably a really ideal phrag for people in somewhat warmer climates to grow. Have you ever given besseae or kovachii hybrids a shot? I'd be curious to know how those perform for you. Regarding light - totally agree; brighter is better in most cases...and for potting media...I can see how peatmoss & perlite might work. I use a modified version of that for my Macodes petola (jewel orchid) and for my aroids!
@@HerebutNot The kovachii hybrids are beautiful. I'm on the lookout for something healthy and well priced for sure!
Hello great video,
I never get phrag leaves wet except when I wipe dust off them with plain water, but I used to get tip burn, I read somewhere it happens when the plants dry out too much, since I started keeping them more wet I now have no leaf tip burn so I’m convinced this is the reason. Just my anecdotal experience it may just be a coincidence?
Lei è bravissimo nello spiegare . Però c'è un problema !! Quando prepara la base x la semina delle orchidee , perché non vengono scritte anche in italiano i prodotti utilizzati.grazie Angela Ginosa Taranto.
possibly the climbing traits of bessae could be grown in long and shallow mount ?. A guess since bessae grows in a climbing habits.
Hey Dustin, just a question on P. Bessea, can’t you try to grow them like a aroid on a moss pole instead of growing it straight in a pot.
Very informative video, thanks very much for sharing. You do really well with phrags, do you get lots of blooms too? I also saw you grow aerides too, can you make a care tip video for them too?
Thanks MaryG Orchids! Most of my phrags bloom prolifically - the Pink Panther, the x roethianum, and the Samuel Crothers pump out flowers when they are in season. The other kovachii hybrids I only got as small plants 2 years ago, so I am waiting for them to have their first bloom-the kovachii species plant I got last month will likely still be a couple years before I see flowers though.
Regarding aroid care - I will do a video eventually, but I’m going to hold off until some of my newer plants establish more. They are still only a couple months under my care, and I want to make sure I have a good grasp on their needs before I make a video. In the mean time however, I am putting all of my care info for aroids on my blog. Here’s a link to that post: herebutnot.com/aroids-anthuriums-philodendrons-care-culture-tips-for-growing-indoors/
I love your collection ❤️ where in Canada do you live? Do you sell those slipper orchids and ship them to Portugal?
"...don't want their roots sitting in cold 'wet water'..."
Buh! I KNOW! I fumble my words so hard sometimes...I was thinking cold wet roots...and faohapoerpaunpoahrpwohrpwahr! I actually do it a fair bit - call paphs phals, say on the white (right). Oh well though, hopefully the value comes through :)
"don't shame me"
shame! 🔔 shame! 🔔 shame! 🔔
Very informative, as always. Oddly, my one and only Phrag lost every root after I got it. I thern repotted it because I think the old medium went sour, it started new roots but I am still waiting for a new growth (four months, nothing).
Michael McCarthy - the leaves are SUUUUPER seasonal at the beginning. I have distinct seasons where leaves start. Once they establish they tend to produce offset growths, but initially at least, they weren’t.
Here...but Not I was just giving it some water since I neglected to this morning. Looks like a new growth nub just pushing out... finally.
Michael 🥳💚🥳🌱😘💚🥳🌱🥳 Grats!
The Phalaenopsis at 10.04 is so huge. First I thought it was Vanda
Hi, I recently found and subscribed to your channel. I also followed your advise and watched "Ecuadorian Phrags in Situ". I've also been conversing with Ed from Ed's orchids who thinks I'm doing to much research/blogging I think. I'm located in the U.S. in New England. I recently added two Phrags and two Paphs to my Phal collection and am trying to figure out the best media, lighting, watering - ugh! I moved my Paph to a lower light area but the bottom leaves are very yellow. My Phrags are potted in self watering pots (with reservoirs at the bottom) and I'm using a combination of RePotme Phrag and Phaph media with some peat and leca mixed in. They actually look pretty good but I am getting die back on "some" of the tips. I do use rain water and crushed oyster shells. Do you think I will kill them this way? Knowing your Phrag was enlightening - had no idea that there grow in somewhat different environments. I have a D'alessandroi x Longifolium and a Conchiferum x D'alessandroi. The Phaphs are 1 mottled leaf American Beauty Black Rook Grace X Black Budha and a mini helenae bear #1x helenae.
Hello, please teach me how to make the ingredients inside the bottle, to grow different types of orchids
good night. Thank you very much for the video, it is very interesting. I'm new to phragmipedium, I have phrag. sedenii = longifolium x schlimii, I can't find effective information, and I have a doubt, this phrag needs calcium, yes or no? I have it in a window facing east, the medium is pine bark, and with two fingers of water, the pH of my irrigation water is between 5 and 6.4. I beg you to give me some advice for this species of which I can not find information, I will be very grateful. I wish you a good crop and best regards.
If there are any orchid shows or Botanical Gardens near you, I would definitely recommend you visit. They will definitely help you!
Great video, very informative and interesting. I just want to know where do you buy your organic fertilizer
You mentioned that you are Calgary, we might not have it in Toronto but doesn’t hurt to know who carries it. Thanks a million and keep up the good work
I bought the same organic on Amazon. I also live in Toronto.
Thanks, spag on all tops??? I use RO. 14 miles from Fred Clarke. 23 miles from Andy, talked to " Pepe " today --- IVANS birthday
Thanks
Escondido John ---
John Mickel - yeah, that’s what I use. It helps hold moisture in longer. If your climate is already very humid, you can likely forgo the sphagnum
Great video! Have rewatched a few times. Do you think you can explain a bit more how you take care of your climbing Hanne Popow? Mine is for sure a climber as well. I’ve heard of having them in bowls or in taller pots to allow for the climbing. Thanks!
Ugh - i think the secret there...is that I should have repotted sooner. I let it go a full 3 seasons without repotting and this summer it has realllllly suffered. I would probably recommend NOT doing that *haha* - and instead mound sphagnum as the leads grow, but then repot and divide after 2 or 3 seasons max. You really want those newer growths rooting and if your climate is humid enough, that won't be an issue, but if your climate is super dry...then you really need to keep those new leads in the moist media.
Maybe use a moss stake on the climbing phrag?
Hi, do you let you phrags standing with their roots in water during winter too. Here where I live we have winter rainfall
Great info. Can’t wait for my Incan Treasure to bloom.
Yussss!
What "soil" mix do you use or do you mix your own? eg. someone I bought a phrag from used Sunshine Mix - I used something similar but added a lot of pottery grog - (fired & ground up pottery)? I see you also add charcoal and perlite. I want to repot one so that's why I'm asking now :)
THANK YOU! You Really know your sh--!
yes i waited this video so much, sorry for ma enlish
Hey Dustin, Loved this discussion! I have zero phrags but I think about adding a few to my collection often. I think I'll watch this video and some more of Ed's a few more times and then look at all the hybrids get overwhelmed with all the choices, and complain about the cost of the ones I like 🤑. Then winter will roll around and I can't order anything from online and the whole process will begin again! FML 🙄 ..... But on the off chance that I get one, I do like the ones with the long twisty petals( sepals?), like caudatum or humboldti... with your experience could you suggest a hybrid that has the look I like but perhaps the ease in care that I should start with?. (Nice T-shirt btw)..... Kelly
Well...I'm a bad person to ask this question - the only answer is really to get one of each one you like! lol Seriously though, if you really like caudatum and humboldtii, but are nervous about spending the large, maybe try a hybrid of that with one of the medium length (and easier to care for) phrags (such as longifolium). The hybrids should be more resilient and faster growing as humboldtii/wallisii/warscewiczianum are all slower growers (a lot more like a paph). Honestly though...just start with one...any type, and see how it goes. They are pretty easy to care for if they're happy - keep the roots moist and give them good light at an east window and generally it's smooth sailing :)
Hi! Great video, really informative. I was searching for more in depth care info on kovachii and your video answered many of my questions. I only have one phrag (a young Hanne popow x Kovachii), that I've recently switched to a self watering system with a seramis, LECA and perlite mix (layered to increase airation but seramis heavy for the moisture levels- top layer of live moss on the seramis). I was curious if you'd ever tried seramis for them? I have all my masdevallias growing in self watering systems in seramis heavy mixes (with a little LECA through the mix), the seramis is super moisture retentive, with a live moss top layer to prevent drying out. It has a slightly alkaline pH like LECA but holds more water....Just curious! 😄 Thought theoretically it may be quite suited to phrags...?
I'm not a big fan of semihydro; I have a long list of reasons but really it all comes down to this: in my dry climate, the top of the leca/seramis gets too dry and as I mentioned in this video, dryness where new roots are forming is not good. With S/H you have new roots poking out expecting moisture and they're met with dry rocks. I lost a lot of plants trying to get semihydro to work but I have since found that a blended media works much better with my climate and conditions (and across more types of orchids). I know a lot of people in dry climates will sometimes add sphagnum moss to the media...but then it's really not semihydro anymore, right? They are then relying on the water-retentive qualities of organic media, and the leca just becomes a structure -providing inert material...and you could swap that for pumice, perlite, turface, etc. AND they're really just growing with a blended media similar to what I already use.
Above all...if it's working for you, stick to it and don't be scared to experiment to find the sweet spot for growing orchids in your home and conditions.
If you want more information on my potting media:
herebutnot.com/my-5-go-to-orchid-potting-mix-recipes/
And if you want more details on my experience with Semi-Hydro (leca & water):
herebutnot.com/side-semi-hydro-sh-full-water-culture-fwc-orchid-care/
@@HerebutNot Thanks for the detailed reply! Yes I noted that you explained the dry top layer for LECA in your video, I have also found this, but your humidity is lower than mine so I can understand that it may even be worse in your climate! This is definitely a major issue with SH with LECA. I was really asking about seramis as I have the same issues with LECA for some orchids, and seramis doesn't dry out like LECA does- you don't get a dry top layer 😄 Which is why I am able to grow masdevallias and Restrepias in seramis, and in fact culture live moss on the top which hates to dry out or have excess salts 😄 I will check out your SH video for sure.
I'm a total newbie when it comes to phrags and Paphs so I'm trying to read around it as much as possible and find out what's working for different growers and if there is an inorganic option...
I know it's difficult to generalise though...different things work for different growers in different environments like you say (I grow intermediate to warm in a specific grow room set up, and use alot of inorganic materials for many of my orchids, many of my orchids are in semi hydro or self watering with inorganic). For the most part it works very well, but there are exceptions that I am currently trying to find ways around! Miltoniopsis and oncidiums hate it in my environment - that dry top layer! So they are all in Sphagnum...
I'm constantly trying to improve the set ups, so was interested to hear your thoughts and experiences with phrags 😀 Thanks for responding 😄 I enjoy the more technical aspects of your videos and blog!
@@TheOrchidRoom That's cool - I actually don't have easy access to seramis specifically. I had many long talks with a buddy in Spain about using seramis with phalaenopsis - and eventually he ended up abandoning it for phals...but phrags and masdevallias are a different beast - thin roots that love moisture. My only thought with all of this is to be mindful of airflow through the root area...seramis can be pretty dense and in a larger pot, I'd worry that you may not have good oxygen turn over at the lower levels - I even run into this problem with my big pots using big chunks of pumice - so I put a small pop lid under the pot to ensure the holes at the bottom of the pot are fully exposed to air and allow for better movement of air through the bottom of the pot.
I would be more inclined to test it out if I could find it for sure - but shipping rates are prohibitive with stuff like that. Wanna trade homes? I wouldn't mind living somewhere a little more humid and warm though... hahahaha
@@HerebutNot Thanks for sharing your thoughts! That's interesting about the phal issues with seramis- I know there are different sizes available in Europe but in the UK I can only get hold of the small seramis which I think would be a disaster for phals 😅 Or maybe not- it seems species phals come in tightly packed moss and do great in the nurseries in that? But I've never tried it in the home, feel like it wouldn't work for me.... But in my climate most of the phals I have do well in SH, with a few exceptions for some of the species. There are some materials that could work but I'm scared to kill off roots and try them!
The oxygenation around the roots zone is a good point, maybe mixing a porous material like lava rock or pumice though could help with that... I put some perlite and LECA through the seramis mixes usually (to try and create air pockets but this could be nullified by the surrounding seramis... I guess I won't know until I've tried it for a while with phrags 😅 My masdies have been in it coming up to a year now but like you say, small roots).
I feel like I would be getting the better end if the deal if we traded houses 😂 The European orchid nurseries are pretty good though.
Thanks for sharing your thought on the seramis set up- I'll let you know if it works!
A great video!! Very informative!! You must do or have done a lot of reading/research as you are so knowledgeable!! So for the Gaia fertilizer you sprinkle it in the pots and not put it the water you fertilize with. I know a lot of it doesn't dissolve as such. So it works slow release.
Lucythecat - yes! I mix it in with new media when I’m potting them up, and then if I’m doing the spring pot up, I water, and then just sprinkle a bit on the surface (but not close to the crown). I didn’t include this in my video (oops)-but I also still fertilize all my orchids, including the phrags, with MSU orchid feet at 1/2 tsp per gallon every week. pH adjusted to 5.8 pH from 7.9. The weekly flush still uses regular 7.9pH tap water. It’s a mouthful to explain - hope that’s clear
Here...but Not yes very clear! Thanks so much!
Oh forgot. What are you using to adjust the ph
@@lucythecat529 - pH Down...which sometimes is phosphoric acid, sometimes it's citric acid, and sometimes it's both. I have used 3 different products all called "pH Down"...lol and they all work, but vary in acid strength. So if you're getting into this, just make sure you invest in a good pH meter first - that will run you about $100 (CDN) - so $50 USD hahaha ;)
Here...but Not no it will be $100 Canadian 🇨🇦. The pH of my tap water is about 6 from my cheap ph meter. I have not been adjusting so far but may delve into that.
Where do you buy your pots and what brands of bark do you use? Good orchid bark is expensive as heck and so are good sources of aeration rock. I have a small Saint Ouen Phrag and all the deep/cymbidium pots I ordered are all too large
I get orchiata bark from a Canadian supplier...and yes, it's expensive; but it lasts for 2 growing seasons, so it evens out. The rest of the stuff, I get at a local greenhouse - Pots, perlite, & pumice.
feel like studying with cute teacher more than growing orchids
One more question - besides of the gaia green that you give every 6 months? Do you still fertilize weekly with inorganic fertilizer?
grow proteas - no! But I forgot to mention that I do still water weekly with MSU orchid fertilizer at every watering 1/4-1/2 tsp/gallon. So they get a couple organic fertilizer boosts at repotting and in the spring...and then a regular feeding of NPK via water 💦
Do you have any feeling on having the phrags sitting in water vs just doing frequent watering ( 3x per week)?
grow proteas - if you can water 3x per week and actively flush water through the pots (not just “too up”), I would definitely think that active irrigation like that would be more beneficial than the passive irrigation I use. You’d really be mimicking their natural habitat and I would bet that would keep the roots happy.
My only caveat to that is...make sure that you stick to that routine if it works for you. Taking a break 2 months later could have profound effects-the advantage to the bottom tray of water is that even if I miss watering by a few days, the roots stay moist.
If you find the roots are drying too quickly, you could also run a both methods; actively water AND keep the roots in a tray of water.
Of course this is for the wet-loving types; for the long petaled ones, you probably won’t want to water that often.
Hey Dustin, my favourite phal has one last flower just opened. No hope of any more flowers this year. Would it work if I self polinated that 1 flower?
Sometimes self-pollinating works. Sometimes not. I had self-pollinated my orange one and it made a seed pod and even produced "seeds" but none of them had embryos :(
would you say you use a pretty coarse planting mixture?
grow proteas - yeah, I’d say so. But I mix in some sphagnum; my mix is here: herebutnot.com/my-5-go-to-orchid-potting-mix-recipes/ - scroll to the bottom, it’s the last recipe
hi Dustin!!! I received my first phrags from Ecuagenera today! popow and st. ouen... im feller mbr with you with FB orchid grps... culture for these just bark? Im in IL...
Hello An! Or is it RN for ‘registered nurse’? Haha (my mom is a nurse too!)-anyways, regarding your question: at 11:15 I talk about potting media generally (though I kind of fumble through some of my words)-I also have an article that specifically covers the potting media I use for phrags (and other orchid types). Here’s a link to that post: herebutnot.com/my-5-go-to-orchid-potting-mix-recipes/
yup RN here... same state as Dr. Bill ;) I actually use Dr. Bill's left over potting media...
ppm. Parts per million.