Great video! I've seen this numerous times before - but I love how short and clear this video is, and the cutting is great too. I'm going to try this today.
For a hard back leaning small tree, I prefer Buckin Billy Rays method. Back cut first, set your wedge then do a face cut. More hinge wood and room after setting your first wedge a little to one side, to double up on a second set of wedges if a single can't get the tree moving. Buckin has a lifetime of real world felling experience and 323k subscribers
@@dougreid2351 small diameter could still be relatively tall depending on the tree which increases leverage on the hinge and you'd want that full hinge support.
I get what you're saying, but because this is only a bore cut (and not a traditional back cut), it won't/can't set back on the compression side of the bore because there's plenty of wood on either side to hold everything in place. Even after making your face cut you're still easily able to drive in your wedge, and then when you drive your wedge, it's still not going anywhere until you make the two back/side cuts because there's a lot of wood holding it in place.
Cool. Last time I did a little tree like that, it was a little bit bigger but my wedge bottomed out and flew out of the back cut and the tree started coming back at me. Haha I thought it would go before the wedge bottomed out. But I'm a cool professional so I picked up the wedge and put it back in the cut and pushed the tree over with a li'l grunt force. Hehe Good idea robot man! You cut like a robot. All or nothin! Full throttle or bust!
There is no traditional back cut with this method - and it can't set back on the bore, regardless of how big the face cut is - you're always able to insert the wedge, regardless of how hard it's leaning back.
i understand the logic of this cut method for back leaning trees. but I really don't think the tree example in this video is the best profile that really allows someone to appreciate what it can do with truly "back leaning" trees. There was barely a lean at all to it. It make it difficult to accept that a standard front and back cut would have been a more safe and efficient cut. (besides saving lots of time and excessive wear on the sprocket head and chain!)... maybe the point would best be driven home with a sharply leaning tree of a more substantial size? A wedge on a 8 inch tree? huH/??? sounds like some arbitrary union rule.
The beauty is that you can wedge it if you need to. Otherwise you're putting a wedge in the back cut and you can no longer get your saw in. Or, the end of your wedge is hitting the hinge and you're stuck. It works great!
Just make the back cut first, set yer wedge, make undercut, don't cut off yer holding wood, drive it over. Much faster than yer nimrod method. PNW timber cutter, 41 years.
The problem on piss ant trees like this sir, the wedge bottoms out. So you either got to cut or break a wedge or make somewhere for it to go ya see? Or have a tiny @ss 4" long wedge in your possibles. Which those are handy sometimes too in the tree tops when you want to get some work done. I got some little wedges for such things now.
Typical west coast guy. You know nothing. If you make the back cut first you totally throw off the differential between the undercut and hinge point of the wedge hole. Macphail guys are timber kings. (PS. GO BELFAST BULLDOGS)
My question is, how am I supposed to use that method with my 80/90cc felling saw and 32” bar? I don’t typically bring a small saw in the woods to drop trees. Is it just me?
Great video! I've seen this numerous times before - but I love how short and clear this video is, and the cutting is great too. I'm going to try this today.
I might add, last time I tried it I was too close to the wedges, and gave one a little haircut! Heh heh ...
Regardless of what anyone says, thinks, or does otherwise, it’s a pretty interesting cut.
Great, thanks. One of the best formats available!
Merry Christmas
This is a great cut. Really helps put white birch within easy reach on my extraction trail.
Outstanding demo.
Well I learned something today. Great instructional.
For a hard back leaning small tree, I prefer Buckin Billy Rays method. Back cut first, set your wedge then do a face cut. More hinge wood and room after setting your first wedge a little to one side, to double up on a second set of wedges if a single can't get the tree moving. Buckin has a lifetime of real world felling experience and 323k subscribers
Did you miss the part where MW prescribes this for small diameter trees?
@@dougreid2351 small diameter could still be relatively tall depending on the tree which increases leverage on the hinge and you'd want that full hinge support.
Back cut first for sure! Putting the face cut in just allows it to set back more
I get what you're saying, but because this is only a bore cut (and not a traditional back cut), it won't/can't set back on the compression side of the bore because there's plenty of wood on either side to hold everything in place. Even after making your face cut you're still easily able to drive in your wedge, and then when you drive your wedge, it's still not going anywhere until you make the two back/side cuts because there's a lot of wood holding it in place.
Excellent easy to follow video. Thank you.
Great Job!
That was cool! I will use this next time!
I hope to see more coming from this channel!
Can you do this for a large tree
How big of a trunk can I do with this method?
Wow, just, simply, WOW!
Cool. Last time I did a little tree like that, it was a little bit bigger but my wedge bottomed out and flew out of the back cut and the tree started coming back at me. Haha
I thought it would go before the wedge bottomed out.
But I'm a cool professional so I picked up the wedge and put it back in the cut and pushed the tree over with a li'l grunt force. Hehe
Good idea robot man!
You cut like a robot. All or nothin!
Full throttle or bust!
This is new for me! Thank you)
Great video! Thanks
Small trees often damage plastic.
This method is new and interesting.
It seems like a way to solve my problems.
It's a good video.
Wow that was cool! And spot on!
Wow great video
Well done but like others said a back cut first with a wedge and then put a nice face would be my way but this is also obviously effective.
There is no traditional back cut with this method - and it can't set back on the bore, regardless of how big the face cut is - you're always able to insert the wedge, regardless of how hard it's leaning back.
Exxxxxellent 👍 Learned something new from your video, Blessings in Christ
outstanding skill..tq for sharing
Great job, but lets warn people that center bore can go sideways if you are not careful!
@RavenShield78 A full comp chain is best for bore cuts. When bore cutting the gob stay about and inch above the apex of the top and bottom cuts, 👍🪓🌲🇮🇪
Thank you!
Thợ cưa cây rất giỏi tuyệt vời 👍👍❤❤🤝🤝
Pretty clever
i understand the logic of this cut method for back leaning trees.
but I really don't think the tree example in this video is the best profile that really allows someone to appreciate what it can do with truly "back leaning" trees. There was barely a lean at all to it. It make it difficult to accept that a standard front and back cut would have been a more safe and efficient cut. (besides saving lots of time and excessive wear on the sprocket head and chain!)...
maybe the point would best be driven home with a sharply leaning tree of a more substantial size?
A wedge on a 8 inch tree?
huH/???
sounds like some arbitrary union rule.
The beauty is that you can wedge it if you need to. Otherwise you're putting a wedge in the back cut and you can no longer get your saw in. Or, the end of your wedge is hitting the hinge and you're stuck. It works great!
Wish I saw this about a month earlier
Vedi intaresting!
Красиво, эстетично, но слишком долго...
Small tree did not really need a bore cut, but good work
You didn’t yell timber….
Just make the back cut first, set yer wedge, make undercut, don't cut off yer holding wood, drive it over. Much faster than yer nimrod method. PNW timber cutter, 41 years.
Ah ha.😄, I know there would be a comment in here from the old timers. Thanks for your yrs of service sir.
Getting them on the ground safely.
The problem on piss ant trees like this sir, the wedge bottoms out.
So you either got to cut or break a wedge or make somewhere for it to go ya see?
Or have a tiny @ss 4" long wedge in your possibles. Which those are handy sometimes too in the tree tops when you want to get some work done.
I got some little wedges for such things now.
Typical west coast guy.
You know nothing.
If you make the back cut first you totally throw off the differential between the undercut and hinge point of the wedge hole.
Macphail guys are timber kings.
(PS. GO BELFAST BULLDOGS)
My question is, how am I supposed to use that method with my 80/90cc felling saw and 32” bar? I don’t typically bring a small saw in the woods to drop trees. Is it just me?
@@IndianaDoug I do it all the time. Bar length doesn't matter.