Hi Beau , I have a Phatmoto in Cuba , the drive chain broke while my wife was using it yesterday, can you tell me what size is this chain so I can purchase one back home . The Phatmoto has changed our lives in Cuba , for traveling to the countryside to buy food , a 50 km trip uses a tea cup full of gasoline. For a bang for buck no machine beats the Phatmoto, keep up the good work.
@@johnmoran168 Yes, the drive chain from the jack shaft to the rear wheel sprocket is a 415. A 41 can be used or even a 420, but the 415 is preferred and recommended.
It is the small chain from clutch to drive sprocket that has broken, I would love to post a few pictures of the bike and the Cuban alterations but unfortunately the comments section does not allow
@@johnmoran168 Okay that chain is a #35 size. It is recommended to use quality chain, the cheap chain wears out the sprockets very fast and will cause expensive repairs later.
What kind of chain or where did you purchase your bikes chains; the chain from the clutch to the Jack shaft and the chain that drives the rear wheel from the Jack shaft to the rear wheel. Can you please share that information? TIA! 🙏🏼
The clutch to the jack shaft chain is a #35 size, the jack shaft to the rear wheel is 415 size. You can usually get the #35 quality chain from most go kart suppliers as they use the #35 a lot in go kart racing. It will run you about $20 + to about $30 + for a good quality gold or silver racing chain. The 415 you usually need to purchase from say Amazon or eBay or even some motorcycle suppliers. The 415 chain is used in the smaller CC class motorcycles. It will run you $30 + to $40+ for a quality gold racing chain. EK, RK, Pro-Taper, Iris, Regina, DID, RLV and many others are quality brands. You'll need to get a quality chain breaker tool to cut the chains to size, that's how it done. This is one of the best upgrades you can do for the bike along with brakes in my humble opinion. You can get both chains online.
Hi beau brummel..I've been having a blast with my pbarmoto all terrain..just want to say thanks for all this usefull phatmoto info and expertise!!. My throttle has been sticking and the linkage and cable seems to be moving just fine..do you have any thoughts on what it might be?..I did the zip tie governor delete...look forward to hearing from you whenever your free and God bless
Hi ben, if your throttle is sticking and the linkage and cable seems to be fine, it could still be a cable binding issue. The throttle assemblies are mostly plastic inside and sometimes the cable doesn't slide smoothly along its path in the twist mechanism. Slightly loosen the 2 screws holding the clamping part and see if it loosens up. You can try a little grease inside where the cable attaches and moves through. Also try using some cable lube, remove the cable at grip, hold it up and squirt some cable lube down cable. Work it in well. You can use chain lube also.
It really depends on how often and how far you ride. When new the bushings are usually really dry. The clutch could have set in a box on a shelf for a year or longer and the oil im pregnated in the bronze bushing can evaporate. As a rule of thumb, you'll probably need a drop or two of oil every 2 hours of use. It is kind of a learning type of thing as you go. It seems at first it is a chore but it is part of owning a centrifugal clutch. If at any time you notice the engine lurching and stalling along with a screeching sound, it needs oil ASAP.. Another option to get the bushing in shape is to take it out and soak it in 30 w weight warm oil overnight. Good luck, and keep me informed on how it is working for you.
@@beaubrummelmotorizedbicycles i had this lurching and stalling issue, and i followed your videos advice - re-oiled the bushing. but this was only a temporary fix as the lurching returned almost immediately. It seemed the oil wasnt being absorbed by the bushing or something. there was also some black binding around the bushing, so i'm currently sanding that down to make it smooth again. ill reapply oil and hopefully that will solve the stalling-lurching issue!
@Skimeric Yes, it's possible the bushing is not absorbing the oil, sometimes it requires multiple frequently applications. After you clean it you might need to do the fully submerged in oil overnight. Also make sure your idle is not to high.
Hi Beau , I have a Phatmoto in Cuba , the drive chain broke while my wife was using it yesterday, can you tell me what size is this chain so I can purchase one back home . The Phatmoto has changed our lives in Cuba , for traveling to the countryside to buy food , a 50 km trip uses a tea cup full of gasoline. For a bang for buck no machine beats the Phatmoto, keep up the good work.
@@johnmoran168 Yes, the drive chain from the jack shaft to the rear wheel sprocket is a 415. A 41 can be used or even a 420, but the 415 is preferred and recommended.
It is the small chain from clutch to drive sprocket that has broken, I would love to post a few pictures of the bike and the Cuban alterations but unfortunately the comments section does not allow
@@johnmoran168 Okay that chain is a #35 size. It is recommended to use quality chain, the cheap chain wears out the sprockets very fast and will cause expensive repairs later.
Tanks
As always great informative video brother 😁💯😎
Thanks Kasey, just to show the new guys how easy it is
Thank you 😎👍
Thanks for the video!
Thanks Hanzel, keep that clutch bushing oiled and it works.
@@beaubrummelmotorizedbicycles Your welcome, just about to upload a video as well of my bike! Sounds good! I have to! Thanks man! 👍💯🚲💨💨💨 Ride on!
What kind of chain or where did you purchase your bikes chains; the chain from the clutch to the Jack shaft and the chain that drives the rear wheel from the Jack shaft to the rear wheel. Can you please share that information? TIA! 🙏🏼
The clutch to the jack shaft chain is a #35 size, the jack shaft to the rear wheel is 415 size. You can usually get the #35 quality chain from most go kart suppliers as they use the #35 a lot in go kart racing. It will run you about $20 + to about $30 + for a good quality gold or silver racing chain. The 415 you usually need to purchase from say Amazon or eBay or even some motorcycle suppliers. The 415 chain is used in the smaller CC class motorcycles. It will run you $30 + to $40+ for a quality gold racing chain. EK, RK, Pro-Taper, Iris, Regina, DID, RLV and many others are quality brands. You'll need to get a quality chain breaker tool to cut the chains to size, that's how it done. This is one of the best upgrades you can do for the bike along with brakes in my humble opinion. You can get both chains online.
Hi beau brummel..I've been having a blast with my pbarmoto all terrain..just want to say thanks for all this usefull phatmoto info and expertise!!.
My throttle has been sticking and the linkage and cable seems to be moving just fine..do you have any thoughts on what it might be?..I did the zip tie governor delete...look forward to hearing from you whenever your free and God bless
Hi ben, if your throttle is sticking and the linkage and cable seems to be fine, it could still be a cable binding issue. The throttle assemblies are mostly plastic inside and sometimes the cable doesn't slide smoothly along its path in the twist mechanism. Slightly loosen the 2 screws holding the clamping part and see if it loosens up. You can try a little grease inside where the cable attaches and moves through. Also try using some cable lube, remove the cable at grip, hold it up and squirt some cable lube down cable. Work it in well. You can use chain lube also.
@@beaubrummelmotorizedbicycles thank you sir I will try that
Nice
I have to do mine 👍💯🚲💨💨💨
Is lubing either of the chains needed?
Yes it is. If not the chain and sprockets will wear out quickly and cause a major failure.
How often do you oil it? Like every tank of gas or every time you ride or longer?
It really depends on how often and how far you ride. When new the bushings are usually really dry. The clutch could have set in a box on a shelf for a year or longer and the oil im pregnated in the bronze bushing can evaporate. As a rule of thumb, you'll probably need a drop or two of oil every 2 hours of use. It is kind of a learning type of thing as you go. It seems at first it is a chore but it is part of owning a centrifugal clutch. If at any time you notice the engine lurching and stalling along with a screeching sound, it needs oil ASAP.. Another option to get the bushing in shape is to take it out and soak it in 30 w weight warm oil overnight. Good luck, and keep me informed on how it is working for you.
@@beaubrummelmotorizedbicycles i had this lurching and stalling issue, and i followed your videos advice - re-oiled the bushing. but this was only a temporary fix as the lurching returned almost immediately. It seemed the oil wasnt being absorbed by the bushing or something. there was also some black binding around the bushing, so i'm currently sanding that down to make it smooth again. ill reapply oil and hopefully that will solve the stalling-lurching issue!
@Skimeric Yes, it's possible the bushing is not absorbing the oil, sometimes it requires multiple frequently applications. After you clean it you might need to do the fully submerged in oil overnight. Also make sure your idle is not to high.
Thank you sir! And also, thanks for the sick diy oil-extractor@@beaubrummelmotorizedbicycles
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