I think you have e BEST series of videos covering introductory info for curious, wannabe archers (like me.) You honestly and clear communication is highly appreciated.
I have to say PVC bows yes are less than desirable people, but it allowed me to skip the beginner step and enabled me to enjoy archery and see that I wanted to pursue it for about 13 USD. And that's including an arrow or two, and it took me one shot to get hooked on archery.
Oh yeah, I made a pvc long bow, wrapped grip and all that, back about 15-17 years ago. Just got bored, wanted a bow, and knew some fletching/bowstring-knots.
Blondes, Brunettes, or Redheads? LOL!! Being a left handed archer puts me in the right mind and on the backend of available products. Often times necessity is the mother of invention. Carry on NUSensei, carry on...
good humor you always make smile; as a fellow teaching archer you vids are very use-able they hold the interest of the kids i work please keep doing it you got it nailed when it comes to youth, most likely with your educator's background, my guess you are awesome at it, reason #6 some people are unwilling to learn!! -Tom
you should do a " if you see this happening." field demonstration. for example I am trying to learn to make my own arrows as cheaply as possible, while there is wild variation in target accuracy, I would like to know what each inaccuracy means, like a wide spread, a short range, a constant veering to the right, and other common symptoms of poor shooting form or poor equipment choice and the quick remedy for those examining by issue rather than by solution. just a FAQ episode.
For me your video reviews on Olympic recurves, BB recurves, and some just plain recurves are great, honest and straightforward which help any recurve shooter. Oh you also do a great job on arrows. I have been shooting LB and recurves for 25+ years and I really like how you present your reviews. You know your stuff and are honest. Keep up the good work and hope you enjoy yourself. Thank you. Alan
Thanks for all the videos. I'm a former pretty good archer (former NY state champion), but have a degenerative neurological problem that prevented me from shooting for the last 20 years. I miss it dearly, I thought it was going to be a life sport. Nevertheless, it's fun to hear all the old archery chatter again. Flabergasted at what Hoyts sell for these days. I have an old TD-4 with two sets of carbon limbs, do you think anyone would be nterested in buying it. Comes with case and stabilizers. TFCs are a little worn.
You are a great resource for information, for example your training video, this can be use with either recurve or compound bows. We just have to adapt it. Thank you very much.
For those in Sydney, may I recommend Abbey Archery who have a small lane at the back of the store to allow you to try bows before you make a decision. This is invaluable especially for compound bows that vary markedly in weight and feel.
For compound bow specific stuff, I recommend Sean's Outdoor Adventures and Average Jack Archery on youtube. Both of those channels are excellent resources for tuning and general compound-centric information.
Hey NuSensei, I stumbled on your channel a few days ago and I've been loving the videos. I've been shooting Compound bows for a while now and I'm wanting to move to a more traditional bow (not olympic level with all the bells & whistles just a traditional one) what would you reccomend in that one? Also not sure if this has been suggested but for point number 5 in this video, if people are still asking for that kind of advice (where it's better to see what they're doing) you could have them record themselves shooting 5 to 10 arrows and send it to you. This way you get to see what they're doing and they could possibly get the advice they're looking for. Just a thought.
NUSensei, I didn't attend an archery course yet but I'd like to ask what is there to do on the course? I get that you come in, they teach you the what, when, where about how to stand, how to shoot, how to aim, how to whatever. But ok, you train with that, and get all of the technique down to pretty much perfect. Then what? You could have smaller targets, targets further away but you can do that by yourself too especially if you own a bow. Or is this just something where you get to your peak and then it's just practice, practice, practice which can be done basically by yourself too without an archery club?
The course only teaches you the basics of archery. It's nothing that you can't learn yourself. If all you want to do is shoot at a target, you don't need a club for that. A club provides the social environment for archers to come together, and in many cases provides the pathway to competitive archery should that be your thing. Many will also offer coaching for more advanced technique and form work, which is unlikely something you will discover on your own. It depends on what you want out of archery.
If I reach a point in my career where I feel on top of my game, that's when I'd be more likely to travel around to shoot at different events and clubs abroad.
If you like the wooden traditional style, look into ILF-compatible takedown bows like the White Feather Lark from alternativess.com. Otherwise just go Olympic ILF. Many options there.
I shoot a 50 lb compound bow with a 30 inch draw (no stabilizers/release aids/silencers) and I would like to shoot recurve as well. Should I get a 40 lb samick sage or a 45lb samick sage? Im not sure because the 50 lb bow I shoot can get a little tiring after a couple dozen shots
I've never seen metal nocks. Seems like a lot of weight and cost for a very small gain. Plastic nocks are cheap enough and I've never lost one unless one arrow strikes another. I can't see a metal nock surviving a hit, not without damaging the arrow shaft. Better to lose a nock.
Go with lower poundage, compound at full draw is only holding a percentage of the rated poundage and recurve is the full rated poundage, recurve poundage is measured at a 28 inch draw and I understand that rule of thumb is + 2 pound for every inch over the 28 inch - at 30 inch draw there's a potential that you will be holding + 4 pound over the rated draw weight . p.s. I have just switched from around 55 pound compound to 38 pound recurve, I could shoot a 72 arrow round with the compound easily, now I find that I struggle to maintain good form and technique for half that with the recurve.
I have yet to hear back from you about the "rash" photo I sent you. It is a medical issue, and it really burns, so can you let me know what you recommend.
I am a new archer ( just under a year) and I shoot a compound bow (around 45#) I am interested in getting a recurve (2 really one for me and one for my son) I want to stay in the neighborhood of $200.00 dollars each) I am thinking about around 30# for me and 20 or so for my son. I do want mount inserts though so we can use them for bow fishing. I know the Smack is one many people recommend but how do the others in that range stack up?
They're pretty much all equal. As long as they have the mounts that you need and come in the right draw weights, you'll find other bows are pretty much the same.
I don't really need to advise on draw length, unless you shoot compound. And even then, you need a precise measurement, not a derived calculation from height.
hey nu. I was chatting with the local shop. here in Canada. which is compound biased. but was told that world wide there are 3 registered recurve archers for every one registered compound archer. now in Canada USA and I would assume Australia. it's dramatically reversed. and compound bows are the growth part of the sport. though according to the pro a former junior world champion in compound. he and the industry is seeing growth across the types in North America. note the key is registered archers. like Australia. Canada has a national and provincial archer associations. as does the USA. like you I shoot recurve. and at some events I have actually been the only recurve archer. but lately I've been 1 of many. we are still heavily out numbered. but not alone. have fun n thanks for your posts.
My club is the largest one in Wales where I live (93 registered members) and we have just ONE compound shooter, and even he hasn't shot his compound at the club in nearly a year.
Lee Price cool. I actually shot a 18 meter 600 event Sunday night,here in Manitoba. 28 archers. 10 shooting recurve. 1 being a bare bow the rest target. 3 under 14. 2 over 60. the other 5 over 40. lol.mid life enthusiasts with dreams of target glory. :-P one guy kept taking pictures cause it's the most target recurve we have seen in one place at a time. was fun. here we are a minority. but growing. I shoot both target n traditional. see a lot more traditional archers. especially at 3d shoots.but still overwhelmingly, compound archers here.
At my club in the UK of about a dozen people who turn up on a typical training session who don't use the clubs own training bows (all recurve) Typically 2-3 shoot compound (mainly due to arthritis preventing them shooting recurve any more) 1 will be shooting English longbow, and 1 will have some form of of barebow hunting bow or similar, the rest will all be modern Olympic style recurve (including me)
Hey Nu Sensei. Late reply, I know. I was looking to break into an ILF setup. My draw length is 27" (68.6 cm). Should I be scaling down to a 66" setup or going up to 68"?
I have to spend recurve x4 for myself and my family. So instead of spending $700-1000 for myself, I have to divide it up for all of us. I found a nice one through Lancaster Archery.
I feel that some people can be overly obsessive about certain issues in their form, but whatever they're taking a microscope to, isn't the problem, and as a coach, you sort of learn to drown them out so you can look at their whole form instead.
Nope, as a beginner your skill level will not be able to get the difference the extra 600 bucks make, I know my skill isn't good enough to get any benefit! ( I payed £400 for my complete setup including arrows, stand, case, quiver etc and it's still way more than my skill level can make the most of ) I would say get a better riser if you can, paired with cheapish limbs, the riser will stay with you as you get better, the limbs probably won't
Here’s a weird question for you : I’m interested in archery for the simple love of ballistics. This means I would eventually tinker with the arrows until I essentially make them from scratch. Is archery really realistic for me? My only other real choice is mortars, and I’d probably blow myself up.
I'm not NUSensei but former pretty successful archer (NY state champion) and I would say this depends on your equipment. The most important thing is that your arrows are the proper length and matched in spine (stiffness) to your bow. You will first have to measure the length of your arrow and determine the type of arrowhead you are using as heavier tips make for a weaker spine. When measuring for your first arrows you might start a little long because you can always cut them shorter later, and if you want the option to put broadheads on them they need to be long enough to clear the back of the bow and probably your fingers. It also makes a difference whether you are hot gluing your tips in directly or gluing in screw inserts that allow you to switch between target, field, or broadhead points. Then depending on whether you are using aluminum or carbon arrows you need to use a chart that matches your actual draw weight measured (not just the draw weight marked on the bow), usually with a spring scale, length of arrow, and weight of tip, and the chart should tell you what spine you need. After you have your arrow the complexity of your bow tells you what should be adjusted. Plunger button, stabilizers, nock point on the string all have to match your bow, arrows and shooting style. Some bows even allow you to adjust the angles of the individual limbs. When shooting at a very close distance your arrows, even without fletching, should go in very straight. If NUSensei disagrees with any of this please differ to him as he knows more about the latest information. There are specialists in bow tuning, but until your style is well settled it may not be helpful to hre a specialist yet. Most bows will give perfectly good results with neutral settings, but most importent is getting the arrows right and getting plenty of them. If you don't have much money this is where I would spend it.
Stuff-pack a box VERY tightly with packing material/scraps of foam and cardboard, bubble wrap etc., then wrap with closed-cell foam on the front target face, secure with duct tape or gaff-tape. Add contractor trash bags to entire target for weather resistance.
Just trying to gain knowledge Kind of like me , I have limited knowledge on most stuffs , I’m not going to BS on a subject I don’t know about My compound cost me about $2,000 (upgrades stuff) , not even to mention replacement of arrows .. easily $100 for a pack of 8-12 and those are the low end , get the job done .
And there I thought You were some special know-it-all that will shatter my view of archery and teach me absolutely everything like that other lars dude. :P
it' s a little bit normal someone would you coach them and see you as a figure of autority your youtube username is nu SENSEI so i think wan't learn with a sensei make sense lol from france like your job
"Here is a list of bow that I recommend that are under a hundred dollars"
*stares blankly at the camera*
I love this man.
I try not to bombard you, your video's are such a great resource on their own, we're lucky to have you.
Feces
Feces
Way to snap the line...social media users feel entitled to ask those questions. Very well said...
I think you have e BEST series of videos covering introductory info for curious, wannabe archers (like me.) You honestly and clear communication is highly appreciated.
I have to say PVC bows yes are less than desirable people, but it allowed me to skip the beginner step and enabled me to enjoy archery and see that I wanted to pursue it for about 13 USD. And that's including an arrow or two, and it took me one shot to get hooked on archery.
PVC bows can be great.
Oh yeah, I made a pvc long bow, wrapped grip and all that, back about 15-17 years ago. Just got bored, wanted a bow, and knew some fletching/bowstring-knots.
A man has to know his limitations , I never lost sight of that ! Keep up the good work you do for the sport ! 👍🏻
You are wise beyond your years! Thank you for telling the truth about what you know and what you can do . . . ;)
NU Sensei Should I wear this recurve with the low tops, or this compound with these high tops?
Thank you for helping entry level archer all over the world
Blondes, Brunettes, or Redheads? LOL!! Being a left handed archer puts me in the right mind and on the backend of available products. Often times necessity is the mother of invention. Carry on NUSensei, carry on...
Honest and direct, could not ask for more, learnt a lot from your videos and I have yet to buy a bow!!
good humor you always make smile; as a fellow teaching archer you vids are very use-able they hold the interest of the kids i work please keep doing it you got it nailed when it comes to youth, most likely with your educator's background, my guess you are awesome at it, reason #6 some people are unwilling to learn!! -Tom
I certainly appreciate your honesty. Love your videos. Thank you.
you should do a " if you see this happening." field demonstration. for example I am trying to learn to make my own arrows as cheaply as possible, while there is wild variation in target accuracy, I would like to know what each inaccuracy means, like a wide spread, a short range, a constant veering to the right, and other common symptoms of poor shooting form or poor equipment choice and the quick remedy for those examining by issue rather than by solution. just a FAQ episode.
For me your video reviews on Olympic recurves, BB recurves, and some just plain recurves are great, honest and straightforward which help any recurve shooter. Oh you also do a great job on arrows. I have been shooting LB and recurves for 25+ years and I really like how you present your reviews. You know your stuff and are honest. Keep up the good work and hope you enjoy yourself. Thank you. Alan
ur doing great you help me a lot in your past videos keep up the good work🖒
Really good. Many fine points relevant to educators/trainers/coaches in many professions. Thank you!
You already have helped me, lots. Thank you for everything!
You can find decent used bows if you are on a budget but it is harder if you are a lefty.
TheLoneRideR sad lefty noises
@@Feeshyenjoyer Not sad just realistic lol.
that face when he said, "THANKFULLY I don't have Twitter".
Thanks for all the videos. I'm a former pretty good archer (former NY state champion), but have a degenerative neurological problem that prevented me from shooting for the last 20 years. I miss it dearly, I thought it was going to be a life sport. Nevertheless, it's fun to hear all the old archery chatter again. Flabergasted at what Hoyts sell for these days. I have an old TD-4 with two sets of carbon limbs, do you think anyone would be nterested in buying it. Comes with case and stabilizers. TFCs are a little worn.
have you sold your td4 already? How much?
You are a great resource for information, for example your training video, this can be use with either recurve or compound bows. We just have to adapt it. Thank you very much.
Hi, can you make a video about grappling hook arrows.
HAHAHA yesss this post makes me feel 12 again
For those in Sydney, may I recommend Abbey Archery who have a small lane at the back of the store to allow you to try bows before you make a decision. This is invaluable especially for compound bows that vary markedly in weight and feel.
Just want you to know, you're a dope teacher and amazing content creator! #StayAmazinig
For compound bow specific stuff, I recommend Sean's Outdoor Adventures and Average Jack Archery on youtube. Both of those channels are excellent resources for tuning and general compound-centric information.
Hey NuSensei, I stumbled on your channel a few days ago and I've been loving the videos. I've been shooting Compound bows for a while now and I'm wanting to move to a more traditional bow (not olympic level with all the bells & whistles just a traditional one) what would you reccomend in that one? Also not sure if this has been suggested but for point number 5 in this video, if people are still asking for that kind of advice (where it's better to see what they're doing) you could have them record themselves shooting 5 to 10 arrows and send it to you. This way you get to see what they're doing and they could possibly get the advice they're looking for. Just a thought.
Been shooting with a 50 dollar recurve for 3 months now and I'm having a blast. Getting better and better.
Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".
You should do a video about the pros and cons of recurve and compound bows/shooting!
If you don't know, "I don't know" is the best and most honest answer.
Was this video pre mandarin duck phantom review? My understanding is that it's about the only bow for under 100, he was rather impressed with.
NUSensei, I didn't attend an archery course yet but I'd like to ask what is there to do on the course? I get that you come in, they teach you the what, when, where about how to stand, how to shoot, how to aim, how to whatever. But ok, you train with that, and get all of the technique down to pretty much perfect. Then what? You could have smaller targets, targets further away but you can do that by yourself too especially if you own a bow. Or is this just something where you get to your peak and then it's just practice, practice, practice which can be done basically by yourself too without an archery club?
The course only teaches you the basics of archery. It's nothing that you can't learn yourself. If all you want to do is shoot at a target, you don't need a club for that. A club provides the social environment for archers to come together, and in many cases provides the pathway to competitive archery should that be your thing. Many will also offer coaching for more advanced technique and form work, which is unlikely something you will discover on your own. It depends on what you want out of archery.
not sure how much indoor shoots you do, but just wondering have you ever thought about coming to the US to shoot in the Las Vegas shoot?
If I reach a point in my career where I feel on top of my game, that's when I'd be more likely to travel around to shoot at different events and clubs abroad.
Thank you very much for your candor n some funny common situations
Ha! I collect swords and armor as a hobby. Bows and archery equipment are downright cheap by comparison.
So I got a Samick sage I do love but I was wondering if there’s a better recurve that’s not all the way up to the Olympic bows
If you like the wooden traditional style, look into ILF-compatible takedown bows like the White Feather Lark from alternativess.com. Otherwise just go Olympic ILF. Many options there.
I shoot a 50 lb compound bow with a 30 inch draw (no stabilizers/release aids/silencers) and I would like to shoot recurve as well. Should I get a 40 lb samick sage or a 45lb samick sage? Im not sure because the 50 lb bow I shoot can get a little tiring after a couple dozen shots
I'd go with the 40lb sage then. If your stamina is only a couple-dozen shots, I don't think the 45lb Sage will be a good choice for a normal session.
oh and are metal arrow nocks a thing? Every plastic nock Ive used has broken after about 50 shots
Thanks
I've never seen metal nocks. Seems like a lot of weight and cost for a very small gain. Plastic nocks are cheap enough and I've never lost one unless one arrow strikes another.
I can't see a metal nock surviving a hit, not without damaging the arrow shaft. Better to lose a nock.
Go with lower poundage, compound at full draw is only holding a percentage of the rated poundage and recurve is the full rated poundage, recurve poundage is measured at a 28 inch draw and I understand that rule of thumb is + 2 pound for every inch over the 28 inch - at 30 inch draw there's a potential that you will be holding + 4 pound over the rated draw weight .
p.s. I have just switched from around 55 pound compound to 38 pound recurve, I could shoot a 72 arrow round with the compound easily, now I find that I struggle to maintain good form and technique for half that with the recurve.
I've got a recurvebow for 95€ and it's a classical training bow used by many beginners.
Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".
any advice for someone who wants to hunt with a recurve?
Practice I use the samic sage depends on your situation
Excellent video.. thanks!
Thank you for all the videos!
So, no on the "loaning" me the $10,000? What if it is in Australian dollars?
I have yet to hear back from you about the "rash" photo I sent you. It is a medical issue, and it really burns, so can you let me know what you recommend.
I am a new archer ( just under a year) and I shoot a compound bow (around 45#) I am interested in getting a recurve (2 really one for me and one for my son) I want to stay in the neighborhood of $200.00 dollars each) I am thinking about around 30# for me and 20 or so for my son. I do want mount inserts though so we can use them for bow fishing. I know the Smack is one many people recommend but how do the others in that range stack up?
They're pretty much all equal. As long as they have the mounts that you need and come in the right draw weights, you'll find other bows are pretty much the same.
what do you think about ram horn recurve bows?
You can get a compound bow at Walmart for about $150.
But shouldn't height be useful in advising on the appropriate draw-length?
I don't really need to advise on draw length, unless you shoot compound. And even then, you need a precise measurement, not a derived calculation from height.
hey nu.
I was chatting with the local shop.
here in Canada.
which is compound biased.
but was told that world wide
there are 3 registered recurve
archers for every one registered compound archer.
now in Canada USA and I would assume Australia. it's dramatically reversed. and compound bows are the growth part of the sport.
though according to the pro
a former junior world champion in compound. he and the industry is seeing growth across the types in North America.
note the key is registered archers.
like Australia. Canada has a national and provincial archer associations. as does the USA.
like you I shoot recurve. and at some events I have actually been the only recurve archer.
but lately I've been 1 of many.
we are still heavily out numbered.
but not alone.
have fun n thanks for your posts.
My club is the largest one in Wales where I live (93 registered members) and we have just ONE compound shooter, and even he hasn't shot his compound at the club in nearly a year.
Lee Price
cool.
I actually shot a 18 meter 600 event Sunday night,here in Manitoba. 28 archers. 10 shooting recurve. 1 being a bare bow the rest target. 3 under 14.
2 over 60.
the other 5 over 40. lol.mid life
enthusiasts with dreams of target glory. :-P
one guy kept taking pictures cause it's the most target recurve
we have seen in one place at a time. was fun.
here we are a minority. but growing. I shoot both target n traditional. see a lot more traditional archers. especially at 3d shoots.but still overwhelmingly,
compound archers here.
At my club in the UK of about a dozen people who turn up on a typical training session who don't use the clubs own training bows (all recurve)
Typically 2-3 shoot compound (mainly due to arthritis preventing them shooting recurve any more) 1 will be shooting English longbow, and 1 will have some form of of barebow hunting bow or similar, the rest will all be modern Olympic style recurve (including me)
Hey Nu Sensei. Late reply, I know. I was looking to break into an ILF setup. My draw length is 27" (68.6 cm). Should I be scaling down to a 66" setup or going up to 68"?
I'd probably err towards the 68".
You've probably already explained this in some sort of way but just wondering, what are stabilizers used for?
ruclips.net/video/T9sjmrFxzBs/видео.html&lc
I have to spend recurve x4 for myself and my family. So instead of spending $700-1000 for myself, I have to divide it up for all of us. I found a nice one through Lancaster Archery.
You can get a nice recurve bow on eBay for $50-$150, Shakespeare, Bear, Ben Pearson, and many other brands.
I feel that some people can be overly obsessive about certain issues in their form, but whatever they're taking a microscope to, isn't the problem, and as a coach, you sort of learn to drown them out so you can look at their whole form instead.
What bow should I get? My hair is very dark brown. Jk, I got a Mandarin Duck Phantom. Future you says it's pretty dang good for under $100.
Where can I buy that shirt you're wearing in this video?
It doesn't seem to be as widely stocked, but you can still get them here: archeryshop.com.au/p/9050363/win-and-win-white-t-shirt.html
I spent around 390 USD on my first recurve bow and I actually thought that was a cheap bow until I found they can cost around 50-100 USD
Hi, as a beginner.. do i gain anything if i buy riser and limbs for a 1000bucks each instead of 300-400 each?
Nope, as a beginner your skill level will not be able to get the difference the extra 600 bucks make, I know my skill isn't good enough to get any benefit! ( I payed £400 for my complete setup including arrows, stand, case, quiver etc and it's still way more than my skill level can make the most of )
I would say get a better riser if you can, paired with cheapish limbs, the riser will stay with you as you get better, the limbs probably won't
Here’s a weird question for you : I’m interested in archery for the simple love of ballistics.
This means I would eventually tinker with the arrows until I essentially make them from scratch.
Is archery really realistic for me? My only other real choice is mortars, and I’d probably blow myself up.
You'll find that archery is right for you.
How about javelin throwing, or basketball?
is bow and arrow tuning important?
I'm not NUSensei but former pretty successful archer (NY state champion) and I would say this depends on your equipment. The most important thing is that your arrows are the proper length and matched in spine (stiffness) to your bow. You will first have to measure the length of your arrow and determine the type of arrowhead you are using as heavier tips make for a weaker spine. When measuring for your first arrows you might start a little long because you can always cut them shorter later, and if you want the option to put broadheads on them they need to be long enough to clear the back of the bow and probably your fingers. It also makes a difference whether you are hot gluing your tips in directly or gluing in screw inserts that allow you to switch between target, field, or broadhead points. Then depending on whether you are using aluminum or carbon arrows you need to use a chart that matches your actual draw weight measured (not just the draw weight marked on the bow), usually with a spring scale, length of arrow, and weight of tip, and the chart should tell you what spine you need. After you have your arrow the complexity of your bow tells you what should be adjusted. Plunger button, stabilizers, nock point on the string all have to match your bow, arrows and shooting style. Some bows even allow you to adjust the angles of the individual limbs. When shooting at a very close distance your arrows, even without fletching, should go in very straight. If NUSensei disagrees with any of this please differ to him as he knows more about the latest information. There are specialists in bow tuning, but until your style is well settled it may not be helpful to hre a specialist yet. Most bows will give perfectly good results with neutral settings, but most importent is getting the arrows right and getting plenty of them. If you don't have much money this is where I would spend it.
thats strange, i have a diamond infinite edge, very nice bow
i want to start archery and my age is 19 which is good for me in beginning
which recruve bow is good for me in the beginning
You might want to look through this video for a more comprehensive description:
ruclips.net/video/AiI_DV3xHrE/видео.html
Hey nu, im looking into getting into compound archery. Is there a source of knowledge here on youtube that you'd recommend i direct my questions to?
teach me how to make diy targets please
ammar ariff print it out on the computer lol
Stuff-pack a box VERY tightly with packing material/scraps of foam and cardboard, bubble wrap etc., then wrap with closed-cell foam on the front target face, secure with duct tape or gaff-tape. Add contractor trash bags to entire target for weather resistance.
Just trying to gain knowledge
Kind of like me , I have limited knowledge on most stuffs , I’m not going to BS on a subject I don’t know about
My compound cost me about $2,000 (upgrades stuff) , not even to mention replacement of arrows .. easily $100 for a pack of 8-12 and those are the low end , get the job done .
NUsensei. Should i shoot compound or recurve? I have $50 to spend on a set. Just kidding. Haha.
And there I thought You were some special know-it-all that will shatter my view of archery and teach me absolutely everything like that other lars dude.
:P
Got it!
Ok, that was funny... "whats a good compound?" "Diamond infinite edge." ROFL!
You know enough about compounds to make a good compound joke.
it' s a little bit normal someone would you coach them and see you as a figure of autority your youtube username is nu SENSEI so i think wan't learn with a sensei make sense lol from france like your job
Fuck compound bows. Recurves are expensive enough for me
Yep...poor university student here lol
If I starve enough for a year, I can build a badass bow for like $1200
social3ngin33rin you could get a great bow for around 500
Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".
I don't understand how a pvc bow is better than a wooden takedown recurve for say 70$. i don't quite get that logic there.
You can get a compound bow at Walmart for about $150.