In the marine world we had a lot of problem when GM went to Vortec with longer plugs of customers (and shops) installing the short plugs. They idled and accelerated terrible. I got to the point that it was the first thing I would check when the customer complained about idle issues. I usually asked if they had serviced the engine and they proudly said the plugs where new so they knew plugs weren't the problem. I am glad you maid a statement about higher heat range plugs not causing a cooling system over heat.
I just put put vortec heads on a 4 bolt main 350 for my Bel Air. I assumed that I would have to replace the spark plugs with the stock Vortec spark plugs, but could not find any confirmation. Your information was very helpful .thank you
I'm new to the channel so this comment is over a year late but you gave some solid advice/info & I like the way you use an old head to actually show what you're referring to. I'm an old school mechanic having built performance engines since 1980 when I decided to supe up my 74 Nova. What we determined is that you go to a hotter heat range when your plugs are prone to fouling because of worn guides, bad seals, or bad rings. We'd go a range or 2 cooler to cut down on detonation if we were running a lot of ignition advance & couldn't get high enough octane gas. Mainly you have to learn how to read the plugs to see how they wear, how much buildup they get, etc. As for the brand of plug I've tried them all. NGK, Bosch, splitfires, etc. What I found is that vortecs seem to like Champion Copper Plus. They're much cheaper than platinum & iridium plugs & work just as well. Right now I'm testing a set of Pulstar capacitor plugs because I got a chance to see the spark they make compared to conventional plugs & it impressed me. It's not even a spark but more of a cool looking purple plasma ball. I'm running them in a pair of aftermarket (improved-design) 062 heads and It feels like I have a lot more power & smoother power in the upper rpm range. I'm just waiting to see how long they last compared to conventional plugs & so far they're doing fine. Regardless of the brand of plug I found the weak link to be the distributor caps. It's important to avoid dist caps with aluminum contacts. You have to go with solid brass contacts as the aluminum contacts build up corrosion & wear out way too quickly. If you run a hotter coil like i do, a standard grade distributor cap will barely give you a year of good service, so get a premium cap & rotor. Weak ignition components will affect spark plug performance. You have to think of the plugs, coil, cap, rotor, & wires to be an interdependent system where one bad or faulty component in the ignition path affects the overall performance regardless of which plugs you use.
🤣🤣🤣 I wish these videos were available 3 years ago , everything you pointed out as a potential mistake , I did but that's how you learn , my 357 ran like shit with the old school plugs, took a few hours to figure out the plug was wrong. Great vids man keep them coming!!
This is awesome I just pulled the accel header plugs out of my vortec heads and replaced them with the ngk vortec plugs night and day difference in my holley snipered camaro! Thanks!
@@cuttersperformance quick question if you have the time.. I’m running the sniper efi and hyperspark ignition with dual plane intake on an l31 what is the best timing to set for cruise and wot?
@@cuttersperformance ok thanks yeah I know the vortecs don’t need a whole lot at wot and thanks for the reply keep up the good work on the channel I learn something new each time Also I’m interested in the vortec beehive spring kit cuz the cam is going in soon
Thanks man I appreciate the positive feedback! Send me a email with your combo including what cam and rocker arms your are using My kits a customized to your specific set up pcperformance1@outlook.com
Love the channel!!! You have a great way of explaining all the info everyone fails in. Keep up the great work. I can honestly say I learned something after one of your video's. 😁👍💯!!!
Your videos are pretty great, it's like your just having a informative conversation vs someone talking at you i find it extremely easy to follow, I'm excited to see more!! Have you looked at the 305 vortec heads? i hear they aren't as great.
Thanks man! Haha thats kinda what I'm going for The 305 vortec heads are the best production 305 head but don't flow aswell as the 350 heads Work great on small engines not looking for big power
I enjoy your videos which are good knowledge for everyday people like me. I have a Question for you. Which is the best virtec head and what year? I am having trouble with #3 cylinder.
The aluminum heads I have, are kinda a hybrid vortec, it uses the same plugs, and uses either intake, but being 220cc runners, and 2.02" valves, I don't see much difference between them andca vortec. It's difficult to find a intake and gasket to fit the larger intake runners, I went through about 3sets before finding one that I could live with, I guess the main difference is the dual intake pattern,
Muchas gracias con esa explicación Esta muy claro de algo tan sencillo en el motor provoca mucha falla, en la eficiencia del motor y a mí me esta pasando lo voy hacer como dices y te diré como funciono gracias.
A man awesome video appreciate your detailed information about the spark plugs anyhow I got a 97 vortex 350 and I gotta Holly vacuum secondary 750 carburetor anyway I pulled the plugs and they're black But I'm not sure what the heat range is ? Im not sure what l should run could you let me know possibly what you think might work the best
Every cylinder head has its needs. Non negotiable? Reach, threads, seat type [flat or tapered], and in the case of valve cover mounted [tube type] overall length. The negotiable? Heat range and tip type. Old or new, thats it.
Thanks for the great informative videos! I’m currently running Champion RS12YC’s. I’d like to convert to NGK but preferably a regular copper plug. What I’d like to know is what plug would that be? I will also be spraying a wet shot from time to time, no more than 100hp. Basically I’d appreciate if you could share your opinion on two plugs, stock heat range and one step colder as well as part numbers. Only if you don’t mind, there’s so much information out there, it’ll make your head spin! I appreciate your input! Thank you!
I ran with wrong spark plugg in may 356Csb have Brodix 11X Have tou short pluggs Street car Corvette with Dellorto 48 mm carburators 10 76 210 Mayby with Right spark plugg i will have better time wath dou you tink!!??
Great video man just subscribe I had a question we’ll the ngk work for a 350 Chevy small block I have a set of vortec heads on a 350 Chevy small block and wanted to put different spark plugs on the vortec
Summit racing is out of stock on these plugs, can I use a regular TR55 that has the v on electrode for my 906 vortecs? On a 355 with a thumper cam so no crazy hp.
i have a 96 327 with double hump heads with 194/150 valves can i put some vortec heads on it if so will i need to get a different water pump. Also were would be the best place to buy a set of after market vortec heads bare i hear that when you buy a complete set they have cheap valves and springs.
Check out my water pump bypass video that answer your questions about the water pump Summit and jegs sell there brand of vortec heads with studs already in them. Sometimes just a spring upgrade is needed depending on the cam
Can you give some tips about old school heads like what spark plug and gap. Like I have a set of heads with no plugs what plugs would I get/ what would I need to know?
I’m running accel shorty plugs in mine. Because the stock ones were too long and my wires were on the header in my s10. Is their a shorty style plug with that long end on it????
Another awesome vid , again thankyou . Would you happen to have any part# for a colder plug to suit these heads ? Funnily enough i have a weiand 142 blower going on my engine in the coming months , it will be pushing abround 5-6 psi in at this stage . Im also running as we speak a full msd ignition setup as well as msd atomic tbi injection on my 350 vortec crate engine . Cheers Adam Ps : in your question from you last vid regading the extra holes in the thermostat for cooling bypass , i ended up screwing a tee into the top of my waterpump and getting the same result , but i will be doing the thermostat mod when i put the blower on as i wont have enough ports in the manifold to accomodate 2 temp senders and the 2 heater pipes also .
Will these NGK plugs clear headers? I bought truck from my brother with tuning issues. Everything new. Summit vortec heads, mild roller cam, 600cfm. So far I've found a bad wire that was melted and plugs look rich fouled? He had the accel header plugs in it and I've been wondering about exactly what this video addresses.
Most headers the ngks will clear. I believe the only short accel plug that will work in a vortec is part# P526S. Tapered seat/proper reach but they are expensive. The engine will be non responsive and sluggish with the wrong plugs. Often miss-diagnosed for carb issues.
@@cuttersperformance definitely. Plug wires was burned inside the fiber glass sock and he had just replaced them. I honestly think he was thinking he had a valve issue and was just done with this project so I traded him my Jeep Cherokee straight up. It mirrored a valve issue with vacuum gauge and spitting out exhaust. Replaced wire and it runs great except for bogging now. Still trying to figure out if it's rich or lean. Been around this stuff all my life, but this is my first v8 project. Just put a 650 cfm carb on to try. I think my plugs are fouled badly now from all the rest so I'm researching best route for plugs. I'm gonna try these tr55gp
Do the accel header plugs are 576S. They are the shorter ones inside. I'm gonna try tr55gp. Only one boot is a little close to header on #3. My question if you get this is a rich looking plugs and primarily back 2 cylinders are pretty wet and basically fouled? You got any ideas? I was on the 1406 600cfm and it was basically doing similar. Going to try the 1906 650cfm. It's like it's rich on bottom, but WOT it falls flat. If you roll into it it'll go. Regular performer intake with the thick black gasket. Those plugs were only gapped around 035. I'm gapping the ngk at 040
I have a question I have 1996 z71 with a vortec 350 I want a lumpy idle choppy hard-hitting I'm finding videos of people putting in a lt4 Hot Cam with their stock computer and some small modifications to the valve springs what is the lumpyest cam I can put in this truck with the stock computer stock fuel injection if the 96 heads aren't good enough I can easily get 98 heads which I hear flow better Thank you
The best answer i can give you...don't be afraid of a tune! Haha adding a cam like a XR270 to your vortec 350 would be a great upgrade but to make it run properly you will need to get the ecm tuned. Alot of guy try to skip that step but you'll never be happy without a proper tune
@@cuttersperformance thank you so much for responding that is great advice and I listen to that cam on RUclips and it sounds better then the lt4 hot cam
Hi there i am looking for 350 old school with vorteck heads with 10:01 cr with intake and 670 holly carb with camshift with all stuf spring retainer and lucked evrey think you do it at you tupe i need 400 hp
The only time I index the plugs is when I'm using a dome piston and I need the clearance Honestly usually just run the standard TR55's but have use both and haven't noticed any performance difference. Probably just longer service life out of the platinums Cheers!
I wouldn’t. I’ve got a HT 383 GM crate with q jet , MSD 6A , I personally think it’s too much strain on the coil to jump the big gap. I replaced two coils in six years. Just my opinion.
@@martinbeckmann9376 I'm just curious cuz I have one of them fancy little summit coils on an actual vortec engine cuz it wasn't expensive. Supposibly puts out a bunch of voltage. I wasn't sure if maybe a hotter plug would compliment it or maybe any sort of difference in gap. Idk if the thing even works like it says but I know it's done something cuz it's way more responsive compared to the factory coil. Just thought I'd ask.
If your running a hot ignition and high compression vortec engine might not be a bad idea to drop down a heat range to (NGK 6) But I wouldn't get to crazy about opening the gap up much past .045. Most guys with there 9 to 9.5:1 compression vortecs engines will be just fine with the stock heat range
@@cuttersperformance yeah I've not done much else but a billet aluminum distributor over stock plastic along with the coil and a good set of wires for it. The whole stock gap at .060 or whatever sounds about right as I've lowered the gap on the plugs to .055 not wanting to push my luck and find out any lower might be less efficient. But I'll keep the .045 in mind for sure as I'm sure the cheap copper plugs won't last long anyways haha
MSD recommends .050 gap for n/a engines. After all, we’re upgrading our ignition system to increase spark performance so increasing the gap is a part of that goal. I will say from an OEM perspective, wider gaps ( and higher output coils) are used for engines that have leaner mixtures. So that can help you decide what gap you want to do with your modified engine.
Would NGK UR4 plugs work in the 906 vortec heads? I had the old style plugs in that a shop sold me when i put them on. They said these will work…but didn’t say they would make optimal power. They were the NGK R5673-8 plugs. The UR4 plugs are slightly longer
I only index plugs if its required for clearance on dome pistons. Some guys claim that there are benifits to always index plugs but I have never seen any evidence to back that up
What about running Vortec head plugs in an old style cylinder head? Should raise the compression ratio marginally by protruding into the combustion chamber?
I like your thinking but I would not recommend that Not only could that cause the plug to over heat, you are also taking a risk of the piston hitting the plug
@@thyssenm but you still run the risk of over heating the plug, the head absorbs the heat from the plug and with the plug sticking into the combustion chambers i would be worried about it getting too hot
Just picked up a good set of vortec heads for one of my trucks need another set still for my 90 c1500 what are some good part numbers for plugs that won’t interfere with my headers Just not wanting to fry my plug wires there sleeved but most plugs I find for the vortec are longer need them shorter
Are you currently having issues burning plug wires? I have actually never had a issue with burning plug wires with all different headers and engines I've ran. But obviously it comes down to the headers/wires you have
@@cuttersperformance it was the wires just realized by firewall they don’t have 90 degree elbows for some reason I’ll be doing a lot of changing to this set up Chinese distributor has to go and don’t know what intake is on it but probably going with something I know Not mad frustrated with cheap choices he made on his build but happy I only paid him 150 for it need a transmission now
Have you found any gains by indexing the plugs? Unfortunately I have to slide my headers back for plug changes, so if there's no gain il leave them as is!
@@cuttersperformance ok I'm very similar to your 400 build. I'm guessing 370 maybe without the mild clean up like your heads. Plus I'm running a bare bones 290/300 cam so less intake lift at 465/488. Thanks for the videos and advice👍
Main benefit of indexing the plugs is for a racing application that is very restricted in what you can use for parts in the engine, this makes every hp worth chasing. An example is the hobby stock class of IMCA.
I had a type error I meant a 1969 327. Thanks for the info also do you know what would be a good cam intake and carb combination with my 327 and how much horsepower I could make my block has been bored 30 over
It's going to be in a truck 1966 chevy street cruiser plus pull a trailer sometimes but I did want somewhere between 400 to 450 horsepower with a smooth idle
I'm might get some back lash on this from the old school guys haha but your going to have a very hard time getting that kind of power with camel hump heads on a 327 especially with a smooth idle I would highly suggest getting aftermarket heads and a bit of a lumpy cam to make that power 327s have a short stroke and like to rev!
What the max lift on stock set of vortecs, all I want to do is upgrade valve springs and screw in studs? Can you put a standard hydraulic flat tapping can and lifters in a vortec block?
Max lift i can get with vortec heads is .580 lift with beehive springs But you lose alotnof your valve tip so you need to be careful with self aligning rockers Most guys buy my drop in std lift .530 vortec spring kit so they don't have to worry about rocker to retainer clearance. And yes you can run a flat tappet in a roller block
No I want to use some vortex heads just need some advise from you on what can and springs to get around 400 to 450 and what carb . Actually cost less if I got the dark and evil as far as the intake and everything and can I make that power I was talking about 400 to 450 with the dark iron eagles with a pretty smooth idol. i have a 1966 chevy pickup long bed with 373 rear end and 400 trans with shift kit and stock convertor with headers.
Okay I have a 327 bored 30 over with double hum heads 194 150 a Edelbrock performer intake a Edelbrock 600 carb with a stock cam from 69 and headers. After watching your videos I wanted to use the vortec heads and increase my horsepower
In the marine world we had a lot of problem when GM went to Vortec with longer plugs of customers (and shops) installing the short plugs. They idled and accelerated terrible. I got to the point that it was the first thing I would check when the customer complained about idle issues. I usually asked if they had serviced the engine and they proudly said the plugs where new so they knew plugs weren't the problem. I am glad you maid a statement about higher heat range plugs not causing a cooling system over heat.
Yeah its definitely something that causes alot of guys frustration but it's a simple fix once it's figured out
Man your Vortec videos are so useful thank you.
Appreciate that
I just put put vortec heads on a 4 bolt main 350 for my Bel Air. I assumed that I would have to replace the spark plugs with the stock Vortec spark plugs, but could not find any confirmation. Your information was very helpful .thank you
Love Bel Airs! And yeah make sure you get those long reach plugs, night and day difference
Race on! 🏁
Excellent presentation!!!!! Keep up the good work!!!!
Thank you! More videos coming!
Cheers! 🏁
I'm new to the channel so this comment is over a year late but you gave some solid advice/info & I like the way you use an old head to actually show what you're referring to. I'm an old school mechanic having built performance engines since 1980 when I decided to supe up my 74 Nova. What we determined is that you go to a hotter heat range when your plugs are prone to fouling because of worn guides, bad seals, or bad rings. We'd go a range or 2 cooler to cut down on detonation if we were running a lot of ignition advance & couldn't get high enough octane gas. Mainly you have to learn how to read the plugs to see how they wear, how much buildup they get, etc. As for the brand of plug I've tried them all. NGK, Bosch, splitfires, etc. What I found is that vortecs seem to like Champion Copper Plus. They're much cheaper than platinum & iridium plugs & work just as well. Right now I'm testing a set of Pulstar capacitor plugs because I got a chance to see the spark they make compared to conventional plugs & it impressed me. It's not even a spark but more of a cool looking purple plasma ball. I'm running them in a pair of aftermarket (improved-design) 062 heads and It feels like I have a lot more power & smoother power in the upper rpm range. I'm just waiting to see how long they last compared to conventional plugs & so far they're doing fine. Regardless of the brand of plug I found the weak link to be the distributor caps. It's important to avoid dist caps with aluminum contacts. You have to go with solid brass contacts as the aluminum contacts build up corrosion & wear out way too quickly. If you run a hotter coil like i do, a standard grade distributor cap will barely give you a year of good service, so get a premium cap & rotor. Weak ignition components will affect spark plug performance. You have to think of the plugs, coil, cap, rotor, & wires to be an interdependent system where one bad or faulty component in the ignition path affects the overall performance regardless of which plugs you use.
🤣🤣🤣 I wish these videos were available 3 years ago , everything you pointed out as a potential mistake , I did but that's how you learn , my 357 ran like shit with the old school plugs, took a few hours to figure out the plug was wrong. Great vids man keep them coming!!
Hahaha sorry man! And thats exactly why I'm doing them
Thanks brother!
Your vortec videos are gold, thank you.
This is awesome I just pulled the accel header plugs out of my vortec heads and replaced them with the ngk vortec plugs night and day difference in my holley snipered camaro! Thanks!
Glad to hear man! Alot of people have no idea and can't figure out why their vortec sbc isn't running right
Race on! 🏁
@@cuttersperformance quick question if you have the time.. I’m running the sniper efi and hyperspark ignition with dual plane intake on an l31 what is the best timing to set for cruise and wot?
Thats a hard question to answer because of variables
But on pump gas 34 at wot and 40+ cruise usually works well
@@cuttersperformance ok thanks yeah I know the vortecs don’t need a whole lot at wot and thanks for the reply keep up the good work on the channel I learn something new each time Also I’m interested in the vortec beehive spring kit cuz the cam is going in soon
Thanks man I appreciate the positive feedback!
Send me a email with your combo including what cam and rocker arms your are using
My kits a customized to your specific set up
pcperformance1@outlook.com
Thanks very much for making this video. Easy to understand and very useful info.
Love the channel!!! You have a great way of explaining all the info everyone fails in. Keep up the great work. I can honestly say I learned something after one of your video's. 😁👍💯!!!
Wow man thank you! Really appreciate that
Just trying to pass on the info I find!
Cheers! Race on!
What would happen if you'd keep it gapped at .60 running a carb and hei? I enjoy the vortec head content, keep it up👍
Didn't know any of this thanks so much sir
Its a very common mistake thats often overlooked
@@cuttersperformance absolutely thanks for sharing very good info and no cussing and acting a fool like a lot of em
Back in the day we only used cool plugs on 11to1 compression or higher or forced induction
Your videos are pretty great, it's like your just having a informative conversation vs someone talking at you
i find it extremely easy to follow, I'm excited to see more!!
Have you looked at the 305 vortec heads? i hear they aren't as great.
Thanks man! Haha thats kinda what I'm going for
The 305 vortec heads are the best production 305 head but don't flow aswell as the 350 heads
Work great on small engines not looking for big power
What’s the spark plug gap for those heads
I wish I could have had RUclips 50 years ago when I was an avid shade tree mechanic!
You put out so much great info! I'm following your 355 recipe. Keep up the great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍.
I enjoy your videos which are good knowledge for everyday people like me. I have a Question for you. Which is the best virtec head and what year? I am having trouble with #3 cylinder.
Port and polish the vortec heads go one size up on the exhaust valve and try that
polish HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA thats clown speak from the '70s
The aluminum heads I have, are kinda a hybrid vortec, it uses the same plugs, and uses either intake, but being 220cc runners, and 2.02" valves, I don't see much difference between them andca vortec. It's difficult to find a intake and gasket to fit the larger intake runners, I went through about 3sets before finding one that I could live with, I guess the main difference is the dual intake pattern,
Muchas gracias con esa explicación
Esta muy claro de algo tan sencillo en el motor provoca mucha falla, en la eficiencia del motor y a mí me esta pasando lo voy hacer como dices y te diré como funciono gracias.
Yeh please show some porting on vortec heads!!
Yes sir! Will be doing a before and after flow bench test aswell
I got AcDelco 19308033 and the gap at 40 on mine Pmx-2151 vortec style heads
Proper heat range spark plugs will prevent carbon build up also
A man awesome video appreciate your detailed information about the spark plugs anyhow I got a 97 vortex 350 and I gotta Holly vacuum secondary 750 carburetor anyway I pulled the plugs and they're black But I'm not sure what the heat range is ? Im not sure what l should run could you let me know possibly what you think might work the best
Every cylinder head has its needs. Non negotiable? Reach, threads, seat type [flat or tapered], and in the case of valve cover mounted [tube type] overall length. The negotiable? Heat range and tip type. Old or new, thats it.
Thanks for the great informative videos! I’m currently running Champion RS12YC’s. I’d like to convert to NGK but preferably a regular copper plug. What I’d like to know is what plug would that be? I will also be spraying a wet shot from time to time, no more than 100hp. Basically I’d appreciate if you could share your opinion on two plugs, stock heat range and one step colder as well as part numbers. Only if you don’t mind, there’s so much information out there, it’ll make your head spin! I appreciate your input! Thank you!
If you plan on spraying I'd drop down two heat ranges
BR7EF would probably be the best for you
@@cuttersperformance thank you. I’ll check it out. That’s a regular cover plug? Appreciate your videos. Good job.
@@cuttersperformance thank you!
Thank you so much for this
Good job mate
I ran with wrong spark plugg in may 356Csb have Brodix 11X Have tou short pluggs Street car Corvette with Dellorto 48 mm carburators 10 76 210 Mayby with Right spark plugg i will have better time wath dou you tink!!??
Great video man just subscribe I had a question we’ll the ngk work for a 350 Chevy small block I have a set of vortec heads on a 350 Chevy small block and wanted to put different spark plugs on the vortec
Yeah I've used NGK plugs on lots of vortec engines
Thank you keep up the awesome work
Summit racing is out of stock on these plugs, can I use a regular TR55 that has the v on electrode for my 906 vortecs? On a 355 with a thumper cam so no crazy hp.
Yeah or use a TR6
i have a 96 327 with double hump heads with 194/150 valves can i put some vortec heads on it if so will i need to get a different water pump. Also were would be the best place to buy a set of after market vortec heads bare i hear that when you buy a complete set they have cheap valves and springs.
Check out my water pump bypass video that answer your questions about the water pump
Summit and jegs sell there brand of vortec heads with studs already in them. Sometimes just a spring upgrade is needed depending on the cam
Can you give some tips about old school heads like what spark plug and gap. Like I have a set of heads with no plugs what plugs would I get/ what would I need to know?
Google will have you're answer
I’m running accel shorty plugs in mine. Because the stock ones were too long and my wires were on the header in my s10. Is their a shorty style plug with that long end on it????
Yeah I believe the Accel part# is P526S
But please confirm that will work for you before ordering
Cheers!
Another awesome vid , again thankyou . Would you happen to have any part# for a colder plug to suit these heads ? Funnily enough i have a weiand 142 blower going on my engine in the coming months , it will be pushing abround 5-6 psi in at this stage . Im also running as we speak a full msd ignition setup as well as msd atomic tbi injection on my 350 vortec crate engine . Cheers Adam
Ps : in your question from you last vid regading the extra holes in the thermostat for cooling bypass , i ended up screwing a tee into the top of my waterpump and getting the same result , but i will be doing the thermostat mod when i put the blower on as i wont have enough ports in the manifold to accomodate 2 temp senders and the 2 heater pipes also .
Thats sounds like a sweet combo man! Any boosted sbc is great in my books haha
A plug that may be a good start is a BR7EF
@@cuttersperformance ok , cheers . Ill keep those in mind . Thankyou 👍
Will these NGK plugs clear headers? I bought truck from my brother with tuning issues. Everything new. Summit vortec heads, mild roller cam, 600cfm. So far I've found a bad wire that was melted and plugs look rich fouled? He had the accel header plugs in it and I've been wondering about exactly what this video addresses.
Most headers the ngks will clear. I believe the only short accel plug that will work in a vortec is part# P526S.
Tapered seat/proper reach but they are expensive.
The engine will be non responsive and sluggish with the wrong plugs. Often miss-diagnosed for carb issues.
@@cuttersperformance definitely. Plug wires was burned inside the fiber glass sock and he had just replaced them. I honestly think he was thinking he had a valve issue and was just done with this project so I traded him my Jeep Cherokee straight up. It mirrored a valve issue with vacuum gauge and spitting out exhaust. Replaced wire and it runs great except for bogging now. Still trying to figure out if it's rich or lean. Been around this stuff all my life, but this is my first v8 project. Just put a 650 cfm carb on to try. I think my plugs are fouled badly now from all the rest so I'm researching best route for plugs. I'm gonna try these tr55gp
Do the accel header plugs are 576S. They are the shorter ones inside. I'm gonna try tr55gp. Only one boot is a little close to header on #3. My question if you get this is a rich looking plugs and primarily back 2 cylinders are pretty wet and basically fouled? You got any ideas? I was on the 1406 600cfm and it was basically doing similar. Going to try the 1906 650cfm. It's like it's rich on bottom, but WOT it falls flat. If you roll into it it'll go. Regular performer intake with the thick black gasket. Those plugs were only gapped around 035. I'm gapping the ngk at 040
I have a question I have 1996 z71 with a vortec 350 I want a lumpy idle choppy hard-hitting I'm finding videos of people putting in a lt4 Hot Cam with their stock computer and some small modifications to the valve springs what is the lumpyest cam I can put in this truck with the stock computer stock fuel injection if the 96 heads aren't good enough I can easily get 98 heads which I hear flow better
Thank you
The best answer i can give you...don't be afraid of a tune! Haha adding a cam like a XR270 to your vortec 350 would be a great upgrade but to make it run properly you will need to get the ecm tuned. Alot of guy try to skip that step but you'll never be happy without a proper tune
@@cuttersperformance thank you so much for responding that is great advice and I listen to that cam on RUclips and it sounds better then the lt4 hot cam
Hi there i am looking for 350 old school with vorteck heads with 10:01 cr with intake and 670 holly carb with camshift with all stuf spring retainer and lucked evrey think you do it at you tupe i need 400 hp
What about "clocking" your plugs? Also, I'm running the NGK TR55 V-Groove vs. the Platinums. Which do you prefer?
The only time I index the plugs is when I'm using a dome piston and I need the clearance
Honestly usually just run the standard TR55's but have use both and haven't noticed any performance difference. Probably just longer service life out of the platinums
Cheers!
So would you want to run a hotter plug if you got one of the fancy super coils or open the gap up more? Or both?
I wouldn’t. I’ve got a HT 383 GM crate with q jet , MSD 6A , I personally think it’s too much strain on the coil to jump the big gap. I replaced two coils in six years. Just my opinion.
@@martinbeckmann9376 I'm just curious cuz I have one of them fancy little summit coils on an actual vortec engine cuz it wasn't expensive. Supposibly puts out a bunch of voltage. I wasn't sure if maybe a hotter plug would compliment it or maybe any sort of difference in gap. Idk if the thing even works like it says but I know it's done something cuz it's way more responsive compared to the factory coil. Just thought I'd ask.
If your running a hot ignition and high compression vortec engine might not be a bad idea to drop down a heat range to (NGK 6)
But I wouldn't get to crazy about opening the gap up much past .045.
Most guys with there 9 to 9.5:1 compression vortecs engines will be just fine with the stock heat range
@@cuttersperformance yeah I've not done much else but a billet aluminum distributor over stock plastic along with the coil and a good set of wires for it. The whole stock gap at .060 or whatever sounds about right as I've lowered the gap on the plugs to .055 not wanting to push my luck and find out any lower might be less efficient. But I'll keep the .045 in mind for sure as I'm sure the cheap copper plugs won't last long anyways haha
MSD recommends .050 gap for n/a engines. After all, we’re upgrading our ignition system to increase spark performance so increasing the gap is a part of that goal. I will say from an OEM perspective, wider gaps ( and higher output coils) are used for engines that have leaner mixtures. So that can help you decide what gap you want to do with your modified engine.
R45lts6 runs perfect with a carburetor vortec 350
Would NGK UR4 plugs work in the 906 vortec heads? I had the old style plugs in that a shop sold me when i put them on. They said these will work…but didn’t say they would make optimal power. They were the NGK R5673-8 plugs. The UR4 plugs are slightly longer
No a UR4 plug is too short and youll want a heat range of 5 or 6.
A NGK TR55 is a good option
WHat are your thoughts on indexing...? can you see measurable gains on 062 heads?
Ive found no power gains. The only time I index is for high compression engines where the strap can contact the piston
Nice video, any word on indexing?
I only index plugs if its required for clearance on dome pistons. Some guys claim that there are benifits to always index plugs but I have never seen any evidence to back that up
I’m running the short plugs out of my 95 K1500 in my 98 K1500 and it runs just fine-ish, kinda.
Get some longer plugs and feel the difference haha 😄
It’s just a parts truck. I just need to to move around the yard under its own power until I harvest it’s guts.
CAN you run the 220intake Bowtie Vortecs against a mexican vortec
What about running Vortec head plugs in an old style cylinder head? Should raise the compression ratio marginally by protruding into the combustion chamber?
I like your thinking but I would not recommend that
Not only could that cause the plug to over heat, you are also taking a risk of the piston hitting the plug
Good point, especially with flat tops. Dished pistons, I’m thinking might be ok though.
@@thyssenm but you still run the risk of over heating the plug, the head absorbs the heat from the plug and with the plug sticking into the combustion chambers i would be worried about it getting too hot
Ok that does make sense. Good call 👍
What would you recommend for the eBay heads? NA street truck
Just picked up a good set of vortec heads for one of my trucks need another set still for my 90 c1500 what are some good part numbers for plugs that won’t interfere with my headers
Just not wanting to fry my plug wires there sleeved but most plugs I find for the vortec are longer need them shorter
Are you currently having issues burning plug wires? I have actually never had a issue with burning plug wires with all different headers and engines I've ran. But obviously it comes down to the headers/wires you have
@@cuttersperformance it was the wires just realized by firewall they don’t have 90 degree elbows for some reason I’ll be doing a lot of changing to this set up Chinese distributor has to go and don’t know what intake is on it but probably going with something I know
Not mad frustrated with cheap choices he made on his build but happy I only paid him 150 for it need a transmission now
Do you have a part number for the vortec plugs
Have you found any gains by indexing the plugs? Unfortunately I have to slide my headers back for plug changes, so if there's no gain il leave them as is!
Honestly the only time I index plugs is for dome pistons to get clearance
@@cuttersperformance ok I'm very similar to your 400 build. I'm guessing 370 maybe without the mild clean up like your heads. Plus I'm running a bare bones 290/300 cam so less intake lift at 465/488. Thanks for the videos and advice👍
Main benefit of indexing the plugs is for a racing application that is very restricted in what you can use for parts in the engine, this makes every hp worth chasing. An example is the hobby stock class of IMCA.
I had a type error I meant a 1969 327. Thanks for the info also do you know what would be a good cam intake and carb combination with my 327 and how much horsepower I could make my block has been bored 30 over
What's your intention with the car? A street cruiser? Street strip?
It's going to be in a truck 1966 chevy street cruiser plus pull a trailer sometimes but I did want somewhere between 400 to 450 horsepower with a smooth idle
I'm might get some back lash on this from the old school guys haha but your going to have a very hard time getting that kind of power with camel hump heads on a 327 especially with a smooth idle
I would highly suggest getting aftermarket heads and a bit of a lumpy cam to make that power
327s have a short stroke and like to rev!
Cool 😎
What the max lift on stock set of vortecs, all I want to do is upgrade valve springs and screw in studs? Can you put a standard hydraulic flat tapping can and lifters in a vortec block?
Max lift i can get with vortec heads is .580 lift with beehive springs
But you lose alotnof your valve tip so you need to be careful with self aligning rockers
Most guys buy my drop in std lift .530 vortec spring kit so they don't have to worry about rocker to retainer clearance.
And yes you can run a flat tappet in a roller block
@@cuttersperformance thank you
No I want to use some vortex heads just need some advise from you on what can and springs to get around 400 to 450 and what carb . Actually cost less if I got the dark and evil as far as the intake and everything and can I make that power I was talking about 400 to 450 with the dark iron eagles with a pretty smooth idol. i have a 1966 chevy pickup long bed with 373 rear end and 400 trans with shift kit and stock convertor with headers.
Send me a email with your combo
Pcperformance1@outlook.com
Okay I have a 327 bored 30 over with double hum heads 194 150 a Edelbrock performer intake a Edelbrock 600 carb with a stock cam from 69 and headers. After watching your videos I wanted to use the vortec heads and increase my horsepower
How do i go about buying your spring kit?
Send me a email we your engine specs and cam part#
pcperformance1@outlook.com
Thanks
Pat
What plug do u recommend with a 150 shot?
I would start off with a BR7EF (2 steps colder)
So I tried the tr55gp and my truck just does not like the ngk plugs what copper core could I use that’s ac delco