Got a 98 Mark VIII that just stopped upshifting and downshifting to 2nd. I can manually shift 1-2-3 but if I start in drive it will not shift unless I take low gear up over 30 and then it will shift to drive. If I manually shift, shifts fine to 2nd, but I have to back off on gas a little when shifting to drive. No problems with overdrive - shifts right at 50mph and shifts out between 40 and 45. Transmission has 120k on it with regular 30,000 mile service. Pulled pan and filter and everything was clean -- nothing in pan and just a few metal bits on magnet - very few. It was shifting and working fine, but got up one morning and it would not shift. Took it up on the interstate running 70mph for 40 miles and when I exited interstate, it was shifting, but hard shifts. Parked overnight and no upshift again. Took to two transmission shops and without diagnosis, they said 4R70W are known to just fail and I would need a rebuild.Car is in really good condition, but I cannot see putting $3000 into a 18 year old car. No OBDB codes but when I now try to do KOEO test, I get a PCM read error. Any suggestions before I scrap a good running car. Getting ready to scrap and put parts online.
I have a 2003 F150 4x4, all of a sudden it started to make a loud metal banging on metal noise when it is on park or neutral, the noise stops when it is in drive and shift ok. I stopped using it to avoid further damage, do I need a full rebuild or just a partial?
I have a 2002 Ford E-150 and I want to put the transmission into a 2003 E-350. Are they compatible? the 350 I just bought it used and the person didn't take care of it. And now it has no forward just reverse. I'm thinking the clutches are burnt out. Please help. That's my only transportation.
Ok, I need a little help here. 4R70W, 2004 F-150 4.6 lit. The snap ring #76883 (has hook on end). Holds center support to case. Was in 4 pieces. Vehicle would not movie forward, but would backwards. Can't find anything else wrong. However, I did find one other item inside the case, and I don't have a clue where it came from or if it even belongs. Much less where it goes back. Looks like an anti-rattle clip. Can you help me with this?
+Yassaf Tolentino Sorry it is talking so long, but I am editing it. The new video has multiple camera angles and I cut out all the wasted time. However, all that work takes a lot longer to put together. Please just be a little more patient and I should have it up by this weekend, if not bother me again and tell me to hurry up.
because I have at least a quarter inch movement of my driveshaft lots of vibration shakes me out of the truck ...I replace the u joints both ends about 4 months ago and the rear seal witch is now leaking a little a drop here and there...not sure what to do...truck has had a small vibration in it since I bought it and had been unable to locate till now ...possible drive shaft out of balance or warped can not see by eye...its a 1998 f150 short wheel base 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive ...oh how can I identify it with out pulling the transmission and be sure its a 4r70w ......thanks again for uploading your videos ...you did a jam up job man ...yell I use to work at dismantling yard sold parts got a bout 10 years of that under my belt everything 12 thousands cars on that yard....i.e. junkyard dog.......now I have a job I travel a lot hence roaddog....
+roaddog453 sorry to hear about your troubles, but lets see if we can get to the bottom of this. First, since you have a 1998 and if the transmission is original to the truck, then it has to be an early 4R70W. Now, how you can tell from the outside is the presence of a black colored case connector located on the passenger side of the transmission. Not to be confused with the end of the wiring harness (which is white), but rather the actual case connector that protrudes from the transmission itself. That should be black. If it is black then it is a 4R70W and if it is white then it is a AODE. Next, a vibration can be very hard to diagnose, especially going off of hearsay. However, I can tell you this...if you have a rear seal leak and the yoke appears to be worn out, then most defiantly the busing inside the tail housing is bad. They are very inexpensive, maybe 3 or 4 dollars and easy to change. The seal is about $4 too and you will need a tail housing gasket. Nothing will fall out when you remove the tail housing so do not worry. This will cure your leak, but unless it is wasted, probably is not the cause of your vibration. I hope this helps you, and in my upcoming video in part 2, I will show how to install the tail bushing. But in the meantime use my methods for other bushings and apply it to the tali housing. Good luck.
+roaddog453 ...looks to be the original transmission as it has no junkyard markings ...all junkyards mark their parts for easy ID either stamped or permanent markers
My 2002 F-150 takes a while to go into low. Reverse is normal and ones low kicks in it drives and shifts normal. When stopping at lights it starts all over again? Fluid not burned and level is good. All up shifts and downshifts are good. I tend to think accumulated but reverse is good?
first, when you mean low, do you mean low or first gear? In other words, or you manually putting the shifter into low position or is the shifter in D and the car truck fails to engage properly in Frist gear?
Marvin Jones. Pull your valve body, get the tuff seperator plate, enlarge some of the holes with a drill bit, search for the truck version of the Jmod. And while you do that, add the sonnax sure cure kit, and perhaps the 1 to 2 accumulator piston, as well as the 2 to 3 piston. The plate comes with a cap to go over a pointy strike point on the 2 to 3 accumulator metal cover. Your plate could be cracking from the continuous slamming. It spiderwebs.
Listing question as you go along; 1. What is the blue stuff in the container- blue grease- dissolves in tranny fluid? 2. Why not strap the camera to your forehead and then we can see it all in detail? 3. I'm lost already.?
#1: that is called assembly goo and I believe it dissolves without causing issues. 2: he doesn't have a go pro 3. I'm lost too, this guy definitely knows what he is doing.
Impressive knowledge, I found a small magnet in the pan stuck to the doughnut magnet. Is it part of my shift or epc solenoid? My discovery came while replacing the torque converter I may have misdiagnosed
Post a picture of it, my guess is that it's not a magnet but instead a piece of possibly the planet set that broke off that's now magnetic from staying on strong magnet for some time. But it could be anything right now.
@Tim C end up getting my mechanic son to take it out and rebuild it and put it back in for 750. She switches like butter now. I really appreciate your advice and will keep note of this for the future 😎🙏
HI, I REBUILT MY 4R70W AND WHEN I WAST TESTING THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPING BETWENN 3ER TO 4TH . THE DIRECT DRUMP IS NEW AND OLSO I REPLACE THE VALVE BODY, CAN U PLEASE GIDME ANY IDEA WHEAR I MISS SOMETHING
My 03 Mustang V6's transmission stopped pulling all at once with lil to no warning. Looking back it did do a slight lunging when stopped w foot on brake but I dismissed that because I thought the engine was missing but other than that there was no warning at all. I just bought the car the day before. The car will try to move in reverse and will move forward if you Rev to about 5k Rpm. Is there any hope in this being a easy fix? Is there anything I can do to get it to limp home?
I ended up changing the whole tranny out, found one I knew to be good for $200 so went with it. I wasn't sure if it was clutch packs or torque converter. But makes sense torque converter since it acted like it had a very high stall converter in it. I swapped the whole thing myself. The cooling lines and dipstick were the hardest part along with clocking the starter correctly. Was a lil over my head but in a jam you get done what you need to i guess.
why do these transmissions hate second gear what is the most common problem that make's them not want any part of second gear? i have to start out in drive and pull it into second and it is very boggy in sec almost like slippage but not quite then i shift it to D and it goes fine after that it is only between 1st and 2nd that i have this trouble 99 crown victoria
+mathewmathew what do you mean by the spray? and thank's for the reply BTW. I figured i'd ask I can see that you know your way around a transmission quite well and I hear this is a common problem in the 2002 and earlier crown vic's but nobody seem's to know what cause's it that i have spoken too anyway.
You are the Sultan of Swing man!!
Got a 98 Mark VIII that just stopped upshifting and downshifting to 2nd. I can manually shift 1-2-3 but if I start in drive it will not shift unless I take low gear up over 30 and then it will shift to drive. If I manually shift, shifts fine to 2nd, but I have to back off on gas a little when shifting to drive. No problems with overdrive - shifts right at 50mph and shifts out between 40 and 45. Transmission has 120k on it with regular 30,000 mile service. Pulled pan and filter and everything was clean -- nothing in pan and just a few metal bits on magnet - very few. It was shifting and working fine, but got up one morning and it would not shift. Took it up on the interstate running 70mph for 40 miles and when I exited interstate, it was shifting, but hard shifts. Parked overnight and no upshift again. Took to two transmission shops and without diagnosis, they said 4R70W are known to just fail and I would need a rebuild.Car is in really good condition, but I cannot see putting $3000 into a 18 year old car. No OBDB codes but when I now try to do KOEO test, I get a PCM read error. Any suggestions before I scrap a good running car. Getting ready to scrap and put parts online.
Got a follow up with the Mark?
these trans guy always amaze me..ill stick to brake jobs and water pumps etc..this is an art.
You make it look so easy. Makes me wanna rebuild my own crown vic transmission
Its easier than doing that 4.6 engine trust me
On that sun gear bushing I use a dremel with a tungsten bit and run one cut through that Bushing to loosen it up makes it gravy!
I have a 2003 F150 4x4, all of a sudden it started to make a loud metal banging on metal noise when it is on park or neutral, the noise stops when it is in drive and shift ok. I stopped using it to avoid further damage, do I need a full rebuild or just a partial?
I have a 2002 Ford E-150 and I want to put the transmission into a 2003 E-350. Are they compatible?
the 350 I just bought it used and the person didn't take care of it. And now it has no forward just reverse. I'm thinking the clutches are burnt out. Please help. That's my only transportation.
So basically did you end up replacing everything in that transmission - but the kitchen sink at 26:40?
That's funny, i thought I edit that part out. I have a more complete video here on this unit ruclips.net/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/видео.html
Ok, I need a little help here. 4R70W, 2004 F-150 4.6 lit. The snap ring #76883 (has hook on end). Holds center support to case. Was in 4 pieces. Vehicle would not movie forward, but would backwards. Can't find anything else wrong. However, I did find one other item inside the case, and I don't have a clue where it came from or if it even belongs. Much less where it goes back. Looks like an anti-rattle clip.
Can you help me with this?
Part 2!! Where is it ! Great info by the way just rebuilt mine for about 2k :(
+Yassaf Tolentino Sorry it is talking so long, but I am editing it. The new video has multiple camera angles and I cut out all the wasted time. However, all that work takes a lot longer to put together. Please just be a little more patient and I should have it up by this weekend, if not bother me again and tell me to hurry up.
+Matthew Damato hey man no worries I understand and it's just that it was such a good video I can't wait for part 2 thanks for all the good info! :)
ruclips.net/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/видео.html
Where's part 2?
because I have at least a quarter inch movement of my driveshaft lots of vibration shakes me out of the truck ...I replace the u joints both ends about 4 months ago and the rear seal witch is now leaking a little a drop here and there...not sure what to do...truck has had a small vibration in it since I bought it and had been unable to locate till now ...possible drive shaft out of balance or warped can not see by eye...its a 1998 f150 short wheel base 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive ...oh how can I identify it with out pulling the transmission and be sure its a 4r70w ......thanks again for uploading your videos ...you did a jam up job man ...yell I use to work at dismantling yard sold parts got a bout 10 years of that under my belt everything 12 thousands cars on that yard....i.e. junkyard dog.......now I have a job I travel a lot hence roaddog....
+roaddog453 guess they comes a time when you just get to old for this $#!&.........
+roaddog453 sorry to hear about your troubles, but lets see if we can get to the bottom of this. First, since you have a 1998 and if the transmission is original to the truck, then it has to be an early 4R70W. Now, how you can tell from the outside is the presence of a black colored case connector located on the passenger side of the transmission. Not to be confused with the end of the wiring harness (which is white), but rather the actual case connector that protrudes from the transmission itself. That should be black. If it is black then it is a 4R70W and if it is white then it is a AODE. Next, a vibration can be very hard to diagnose, especially going off of hearsay. However, I can tell you this...if you have a rear seal leak and the yoke appears to be worn out, then most defiantly the busing inside the tail housing is bad. They are very inexpensive, maybe 3 or 4 dollars and easy to change. The seal is about $4 too and you will need a tail housing gasket. Nothing will fall out when you remove the tail housing so do not worry. This will cure your leak, but unless it is wasted, probably is not the cause of your vibration. I hope this helps you, and in my upcoming video in part 2, I will show how to install the tail bushing. But in the meantime use my methods for other bushings and apply it to the tali housing. Good luck.
+Matthew Damato it is black had to remove the wiring harness connector to see it but yes it is black
+roaddog453 ...looks to be the original transmission as it has no junkyard markings ...all junkyards mark their parts for easy ID either stamped or permanent markers
Matthew Mathews p
I have a Ford f150 truck 04 not going in reverse do I if to rebuild the transmission
My 2002 F-150 takes a while to go into low. Reverse is normal and ones low kicks in it drives and shifts normal. When stopping at lights it starts all over again? Fluid not burned and level is good. All up shifts and downshifts are good. I tend to think accumulated but reverse is good?
first, when you mean low, do you mean low or first gear? In other words, or you manually putting the shifter into low position or is the shifter in D and the car truck fails to engage properly in Frist gear?
Marvin Jones. Pull your valve body, get the tuff seperator plate, enlarge some of the holes with a drill bit, search for the truck version of the Jmod. And while you do that, add the sonnax sure cure kit, and perhaps the 1 to 2 accumulator piston, as well as the 2 to 3 piston. The plate comes with a cap to go over a pointy strike point on the 2 to 3 accumulator metal cover. Your plate could be cracking from the continuous slamming. It spiderwebs.
Listing question as you go along;
1. What is the blue stuff in the container- blue grease- dissolves in tranny fluid?
2. Why not strap the camera to your forehead and then we can see it all in detail?
3. I'm lost already.?
#1: that is called assembly goo and I believe it dissolves without causing issues.
2: he doesn't have a go pro
3. I'm lost too, this guy definitely knows what he is doing.
Impressive knowledge, I found a small magnet in the pan stuck to the doughnut magnet. Is it part of my shift or epc solenoid? My discovery came while replacing the torque converter I may have misdiagnosed
Post a picture of it, my guess is that it's not a magnet but instead a piece of possibly the planet set that broke off that's now magnetic from staying on strong magnet for some time. But it could be anything right now.
Where are you located and how much would you charge to rebuild the same exact 4R70W transmission?
they are about $1800...I paid $1600 on the last job
@Tim C end up getting my mechanic son to take it out and rebuild it and put it back in for 750. She switches like butter now. I really appreciate your advice and will keep note of this for the future 😎🙏
Matthew ,,Where is Part 2 bro..?
ruclips.net/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/видео.html
HI, I REBUILT MY 4R70W AND WHEN I WAST TESTING THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPING BETWENN 3ER TO 4TH . THE DIRECT DRUMP IS NEW AND OLSO I REPLACE THE VALVE BODY, CAN U PLEASE GIDME ANY IDEA WHEAR I MISS SOMETHING
AA meetings. We’re you drunk??
My 03 Mustang V6's transmission stopped pulling all at once with lil to no warning. Looking back it did do a slight lunging when stopped w foot on brake but I dismissed that because I thought the engine was missing but other than that there was no warning at all. I just bought the car the day before. The car will try to move in reverse and will move forward if you Rev to about 5k Rpm. Is there any hope in this being a easy fix? Is there anything I can do to get it to limp home?
Yea get new torque converter. Your gears are fine.
I ended up changing the whole tranny out, found one I knew to be good for $200 so went with it. I wasn't sure if it was clutch packs or torque converter. But makes sense torque converter since it acted like it had a very high stall converter in it. I swapped the whole thing myself. The cooling lines and dipstick were the hardest part along with clocking the starter correctly. Was a lil over my head but in a jam you get done what you need to i guess.
Here is a link on taking the transmission apart ruclips.net/video/RxTz2LqIqeo/видео.html
good luck everyone!
Is this the same as the 1998 5.0 Explorer ?
SilkySlim a v8 mountaineer but not explorer
Thanks !!!
The 4R70w from the 97-01 Explorer and the Mountaineer is identical, you can swap Mounty transmissions to Explorers and vise versa issue free.
here is the link on how to tear down this unit, I hope it helps.
ruclips.net/video/RxTz2LqIqeo/видео.html
why do these transmissions hate second gear what is the most common problem that make's them not want any part of second gear? i have to start out in drive and pull it into second and it is very boggy in sec almost like slippage but not quite then i shift it to D and it goes fine after that it is only between 1st and 2nd that i have this trouble 99 crown victoria
Bobby Singer the spray is the main problem for second gear. just poor design that can't handle the loads.
+mathewmathew what do you mean by the spray? and thank's for the reply BTW. I figured i'd ask I can see that you know your way around a transmission quite well and I hear this is a common problem in the 2002 and earlier crown vic's but nobody seem's to know what cause's it that i have spoken too anyway.
@@bobbysinger1685 I think he might be talking nitrous don't really know why but oh well
j'ai une ford f150 lariat triton v83v 5.4l j'ai plus de marche arrière
Please send me your location I like the way you work and explain yourself
Camera is on the wrong end of table. Csnt see the transmission at all. Terrible video
Is this the same as the 2006 5.4 Expedition?