Insulating an Old House
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2018
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Please do more videos like this on how to improve existing structures in the areas of insulation, sealing. Where to spend the money to get the best performance like is it worth modifying walls to increase insulation capacity or converting vented attics to non vented. I haven’t seen many videos on how to cost effectively improve existing structures. Just my two cents keep up the good work.
Calling for a crawl space ninja & build show collab. 😆
This is the situation I want to see more of from you Matt and other people that build efficient homes. It's easy to build tight efficient homes when the budget is practically unlimited but when there is an average budget you have to make difficult choices and maximize the budget you do have. That is where most of us live, average. I would love to see more like this video, an older renovation or building an "average" home with efficiency in mind. Great videos.
Insulating rafters and moisture barriers has to be the most misunderstood part of the building process. To vent or not to vent, that is the question.
Love the rehab videos like these. There's so much content to explore with existing structures. Hope to see more!
Stay tuned for Friday’s video
I love the videos about insulation. Specifically the spray foam and some of the vapor issues that come along with it. I'm a builder from Pennsylvania and I wish the foam suppliers/installers would be more knowledgeable about issues that could come with using SFI. Unfortunately, I have learned the hard way on some of the vapor problems. Keep up the great work.
I'm doing my own house here in Japan, dirt crawl space, new vaulted ceiling etc. Extremely high humidity here in Osaka!
I am really excited for the new video about the siding. I am working on a house built in 1879 and we have the same problem. I can't wait to see how you tackle it.
dito to that
Can you imagine having to crawl under the house with a spray foam hose while wearing a tyvek suit and respirator? I hope that dude got paid some serious money.
Imagine having to dig one out while barely enough room to army crawl just to be able to insulate it. It ain't fun my friend
You almost need a vent mat like behind stucco or such on the bottom side of that roof deck with eave and ridge vents... then spray the foam on the bottom of that. Get your insulation up but leave area for moisture to leave if it ever does penetrate the roof.
I want to see how the spray foam crew gets in that craw space and what they charge to do that
please do as many videos of this house as possible! Reminds me of my house, or rather it reminds me what id like to do to my place.
Very nice! I love learning about the science of building with residential homes. For the conditioned attic, will you need to lay some sort of air gap between the roof deck and shingles? Great videos!
Matt Risinger, San Antonio, Texas fan here. Love your videos. As for this particular house roof's would the smart roof/wall system work? Putting the installation on the roof and then metal or shingle? It would allow for the roof's original wood to stay but give protection to the them from moisture as well as allowing for an open or minimally covered ceiling?
If you encapsulated the floor joist would they need to be completely dry first to keep from trapping that moisture in the close called foam?
I question the advice of encapsulating the floor joists. Old logic was wood needed to regulate its moisture levels with its environment. One example is where painted decking rots faster than stained/oiled. I suppose if the material was properly tested for moisture levels prior to spraying and you are confidant the spray foam would not be damaged, it could work.
I like one of your viewer's comment of installing a "smart roof". For the ceiling space, if there was a way to drop the angle of the vaulted ceiling a bit more to allow for blown in cellulose. It would allow the underside of the roof to be properly vented - fresh air clear passage from the soffits or maybe some places else. As far as air barrier/vapor barrier/vapor retarder, that will have to be carefully thought through. For the walls, if there is no room in the budget for removing the wood siding, and then installing plwd sheathing & a rainscreen system, maybe you can fur out the interior side w/ kiln dried 2x4s for the rockwool insulation. Also; I would blow in closed cell foam only along the floor studs, and have the foam sprayed in a way that it slopes out towards the siding. Moisture that builds up in the wall cavity will not soak into the bottom plate, and will drain out. A vent screen/bug screen & base flashing will still need to be designed & installed along the base of the exterior walls. For the crawlspace, I'll bet there are a couple of punched out openings thru the conc. foundation to allow for ventilation. I think for what you are planning to do, making sure the crawlspace is well vented is very important. There may be a VOC issue. Is there any problem with insulating the joist cavity w/ rockwool or fiberglass & a liner instead, and then using a properly installed vapor barrier system over the dirt floor? Is there a french drain system surrounding the perimeter of the foundation? Is it on the inside our the outside of the fnd wall? Making sure the footing drain system continue to work as designed should be taken into consideration.
Matt, Love all of your Videos. You do a great job explaining things. I had a question regarding insulating the ceiling of a shed that will be heated and cooled in Maryland. The builder used LP tech shield that has a radiant barrier with tiny holes facing the inside. I wanted to add insulation and wanted to use rigid insulation over the rafters to leave an air space between the radiant barrier and the insulation. What type of rigid insulation should I use and does it need to faced at all on the side facing the inside of the shed. Is this the best method? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. There is so much advice on the internet but you seem to have a wealth of knowledge and experience. Thank you in advance.
Hi Matt, thanks for another great useful video! Would you consider doing one on how to sound proof in a pier and beam house (austin east side)? :) we just moved into one and everything sound a lot louder than I expected... just wondering if you’ve had any experience with this issue on your builds? Thanks very much in advance! :)
I would love to see more on vaulting that ceiling. Looks like they added a ridge beam, did they have to beef up the footing/foundation for that? How did they get it up there while retaining the existing roof?
lol yea thats what I was looking at the whole time!!! I want to see how the ceiling was done! that's exactly how I would like to do my house.
It looks like the post supporting the ridge don't even go down trough framing. Its like a franken-truss setup. Really curious how they did this without removing roof decking too!
Its easy, we do it all the time to get more head height. Get a structural engineer and a good framer. Demo the space to the studs, support the old ridge temporally, lift new ridge into place, frame down post on each end of ridge, and cut new ceiling joist.
@@publicprofile1 I understand the engineer. I live up north in NY, I know that won't fly up here with snow load, but it looks neat anyways.
Great videos, always informative. Can you please talk about sistering the rafters and the new pitch, ridge beam, blocking, etc. On the next videos. Thanks
Love the insight!
Love learning all this! Will you come to Ohio in a year or two to help us remodel our 1870 brick house ? Haha It could use some serious build science. All the brick has been exposed, which we love, but we need more bedrooms, a full basement(fix foundation), and a healthy solid home. Excited to merg old with new. It’s going to be fun! Praying for a good architect and contractors.
oh ~ if i could do Anything all over again. Have a great time with your house, BRICK RULES! !!
Read, Read, and READ a lot more. ASK people all sorts of questions, ask others the same.
I Tried, but people just don't want to teach or share much. I'm kind of 'dyslexic' in my understanding when i read, i think there are special 'names' for that. ha ha =p
I let things go, not just because I felt, try try again had me looking like a fool, i felt\feel like one, and then, other factors were added. sorry - just a bum day i guess * peace =]
Get an architect who knows their historical detailing! As a designer myself here's a good way to tell, ask them if they've read get your house right by Marianne Cusato.
I've done extensive renovations on my 1937 midwestern home. It was insulated in the walls with mineral wool (rockwool). When I opened up the lath and plaster or wet set cement walls (bathrooms) the insulation was in such good shape and fit so well that I left it and just brought drywall back over the top. Doing mineral wool in these walls will be the last insulation it should need for where you put it.
Don't get me wrong, I would have loved to put in spray foam everywhere, but on the budget I was on (under $7,000 full master bath remodel including all fixtures) it wasn't in the cards.
Great vid. Can't go wrong with the foam. What about adding some outsulation while they are at it?
Good call with re-roofing and using closed cell. My company sprays closed cell in our panels and we often get the question how do we deal with the moisture and I always reply - it’s easier and cheaper to manage moisture and airflow than heat. That crawl space under isn’t going to be fun but I have sprayed under my own house with barely enough room to get under some of the bearers, hard work but doable.
Have you ever heard of a spray on poly - urea? I wonder if it could be sprayed inside and over the studs to seal off the exterior and act as an impervious barrier?
Awesome video Matt!
Thanks Jeff!
Hey Matt
Two questions ,
1- if you are in an area that can flood and water canget as high as your floor joist, will the closed cell foam protect from the flood waters?
2- spraying directly on the bottom of the roof.Can this build up too much heat for the shingles?
Thanks for any hep
Thanks for your videos @mattrisinger. I own a house in California built in 1942. I can't imagine that its insulated. I'm not remodeling my house but my need to replace my comp. shingles. Would you recommend installing some ridged insulation on the roof even without any insulation and/or sufficient seals to the walls and underfloor of the house?
I am planning on doing a similar ceiling vault in my home. I am thinking I am going to have to pour 2 concrete pads at each end of the ridge beam with posts coming down from the beam to the slab. Your posts for the beam end at the top plate and there's not a direct load path to the ground except for through the studs. How does this work? Does the load spread at a 45 through the studs so there's no point load at the floor? thanks
Matt, What if I’m taking off wood lap siding and reapplying? The inside walls are 3/4” tongue and groove. What should the layering look like.
Nice review
On a conditioned crawl space, do you have to put an AC/heat vent and return down there?
Love your videos. Would like more building tips for houses in the northern US. Greetings from Sweden
How did you make the original ridge structural since the ceiling joists were removed?
I live in zone 5 I don't have any insulation in my attic do I need a vapor barrier before I put insulation in
In the next episode we convince the owner to replace the siding with something that doesn't need painted every 5 years, and we can wrap the exterior
Maybe the entire house should have a exoskeleton installed to "keep the siding" and everything else around the siding "shell" be removed .. then rebuilt from the inside.. that would make sense.. after all "muh' siding" is "vintage"
Are you able to get a termite bond with spray foam insulation under the house?
I need to know how to fix that Tar paper!!! I'm about to pay someone to completely take off the siding and re-do the entire wall (paper, foam, stucco), and want to make sure I'm not doing something wrong!!!
So foam on the ceilings and batting on the walls
Great video, keep it up! What if there isn't room to get in the crawl space to foam it? Besides finding smaller guys :) what's 2nd best option for that space?
I wondered the same thing and would like to know
I have pretty much the same setup here in Oklahoma City was wondering if a radiant barrier and batts would be ok. I can't really afford spray foam.
From my own experience spraying foam I feel like it would be a pain in the butt to spray the underside of that floor. It seems too tight to be able to point the gun in the right direction. They are pretty bulky unlike a paint gun. I think spraying the perimeter walls did the crawl space would be much easier to do a good job with
If you didnt want to do spray foam, could you use roxul to insulate the attic?
Nice work on a real world home.
Instead of a new roof could you use a dimple mat to allow air to pass and keep it dry?
Matt, what are your thoughts on using blown in cellulose in old home walls? I've heard that old houses let moisture through the walls and the cellulose will get mouldy. Not sure if that's true though or how long it would take.
No collar ties? I saw some in the other room. 2×6 floor joist will need extra bracing underneath to make it code too, I would think. Nice video as usual Matt.
How did they raise the ceiling. How were the boards removed?
I have a feeling that in the remodels that have spray foam that those house will have a hard time fixing them
My house has that 1970's fiberboard sheathing. Do you think I can put a new vapor barrier on top on that old one for the exterior wall? I live in Texas
They make plastic barrier that gives 1/2" between sheeting and closed cell spray foam would that work in vaulted ceiling. So many opinions . I would guess access for termites in humid south. Old days r38 batts and visqueen . I hate blow insulation. If you are replacing shingles would 1/4" foam work as barrier on top of sheating as moisture barrier glued down?
That is a tight crawlspace for spraying foam. Also...... Would you not need to get the wiring really perfect under there before spraying?
If I have spray foam on the attic ceiling, but I want to add to the R-value, can I put fiberglass batts up under the spray foam? Is there any reason I shouldn't do it?
The spray foam insulation I've looked at I've always found cost-prohibitive. I'd really like to find an affordable DIY system. I'm a carpenter by trade, but a fair hand at most building trades. Is there anything you can suggest?
You should hook up with @essentialcraftsman for his house build
Steve Abbott two COMPLETELY different mentalities. One probably doesn't know how to use a hammer, and the other one, he ll probably FORGE you a hammer!
I'd love this! Just the other day I commented on Scott's channel that it would be fantastic to see him incorporate some of the design science talked about on this channel.
essentialcraftsman doesn't have the budget for the stuff Matt does.
He does love to give a really good word to any great products that are gifted, though. That goes a long way.
No but he is 50 times mores skilled.
I like the foam you use but would think it would be good in the exterior walls, wouldn't it strengthen the structure and seal better keeping out condensation followed by what you like so well is aerobarrier
So, that tongue and groove 1x8 roof sheathing is a terrible roof deck. After many years it's dry as straw, all the joints start separating, knots have pulled away and leave holes in the deck, it splits easily and will have many loose nails in it. It's just waiting for a leak. It's smart to go over the entire thing with ice and water shield, but ultimately, depending on it's condition, all of the decking needs to be removed and replaced. For me, the smartest thing that homeowner could do would be to leave the current shingles, put down more felt, furring strips and a new concealed fastener metal roof. No leaks and no worries about future leaks.
I agree with the new roof comment!
OK so, this is tips for insulation on a house that has had the interior removed.. What if any is the best way to re-insulate an existing house that has very small attic space (crawl only) and walls that are already sheetrocked? we are planning on buying an older home and would like to do some updates like this while living in it.
DillysADV there is a product called Foam it green on www.sprayfoamkit.com. I have used this one time on a Barn remodel, it’s a relatively easy install. I am not affiliated with that company.
Abby Babby good gouge! I'm in the middle of a remodel and have 6, 602 kits to use. DillysADV be advised most spreyfoam will go up in price 15 to 20 percent this June. Foamitgreen has the best customer support and RUclips tutorials for us DIYs.
Lou Is Good to know.
There's allot of talk using closed cell insulation. But that is a favorite for carpenter ants to build huge nests potentially leading to the home. I don't think people realize how attractive the closed cell is for these insects.
Did you ever return to this house for more videos? I have an old house I am renovating.
What type of blown insulation is being used for that flat area?
Considering .. did you cost out just demolishing a house and starting from scratch?
Personally, in a crawlspace I used 57's, plastic, mastic, drainage tile (pipe) and insulation with a vapor barrier (substitute close foam). In any case it comes to a point what you're saving costs more to save and in the long-run costs the customers more money.
From a purely financial point of view would the client get more house for his money by demolishing the old house and starting from scratch? I've often wondered: where do you draw the line between honoring the past and financial responsibility in the present?
I was thinking the same thing, although it sounds like money is tight here, despite tearing the whole house apart. How is a conditioned crawl space not in the budget!?!
Things really add up...
tomblanco2001 in my case I spent ~$300,000 remodeling a 1949 Sears house because if I tore it down I would have to have relocated it a full 50 feet further back from the road to conform to new setbacks, which would have meant destroying 3 beautiful trees (and making the backyard much smaller, obviously) In the end the architect and builder gave me something much more interesting, and frankly I think tear down and build new would have been ~$320k to ~$330k so I saved some money, and it is more environmentally friendly. The same might not apply here, as the existing house may conform to all current setback requirements and relevant zoning (does Texas even have those? I’ve heard Texas doesn’t often have building requirements beyond national code).
I'm not a fan of remodeled homes. Obviously people do it all the time but the money that it takes is just not worth it when you consider after everything is done you still have a old house that's been updated. I get that some people like the romance of an old home but not me. I'd much rather build a home with new materials to look like an old home.
It's not a romance for many of us, it's a passion to maintain old houses and it's very much worth the time and money when you get to enjoy something that has not just character, but a connection to the neighborhood and generations of people that lived there. My house was built in 1910, i take a great deal of pleasure in having an older house, for sure no cost-benefit analysis would ever be relevant to me unless it costs me something even more important, like my kids education or marriage or something.
Matt I have an 18 year old house, and I just had a new roof installed this spring. I want to use spray foam in the attic, is this a good idea? Yes or no?
So their going to take the ship lap sheeting off an put OSB on the roof, could they not use a self Adhesive ice an water to limited the labor of the OSB
Why the penchant for rock wool in the walls and not fiberglass?
Since when did Ben folds five start building houses
Love the smaller house projects
Isn't that floor shiplap orientated the wrong way for the floor joist orientation ?
Do you need to worry about venting the roof when you have spray foam? I was told that the shingles can over heat when they sit in the sun all day
Good job from the folks at emerald and yanny design build
Why not just add a vented over-roof while you remove the shingles? Sorry layperson (and big fan) here. I would love if you did a video on Lstibruek's basic roof strategies for different climates and building types!
Do ants or critters try to infiltrate or make homes in closed cell foam exposed in a crawlspace?
So i have a question can you use close foam in a attic with a 80 % efficient AC ? I was looking into putting close foam but I kept reading that you can't if you have a 80% efficient AC
Neogx148 it is the gas fired boiler that is 80% efficient, not the AC.
oops yeah im meant 80% gas furnace
Is there anyone does this sort of thing but up in the north? I love this type of show but it being in another climate from mine I don't feel like I can apply any of the information into my home build.
can you recommend a quality builder in New York area just 30 min outside Manhattan. Looking to build a quality duplex
Use rockwool, that's the best!!!!!!
Let's say you have a early 1990's house with bad siding, weak insulation and cheap Tyvek wrap that you plan to replace. Could you pull the siding, insulation and wrap, then spray foam from the outside, add wrap, rain screen and then apply new cladding? I've only ever seen foam sprayed from the inside of a structure.
In a large part of new England a ton of builders are starting to spray the sheathed structure with a truck bed lining type material before windows go in
That's interesting.
Ridge beam not properly supported; Gable end wall weak point at double top plate; Opening jambs undersized.
would it have been cheaper to tear it downa nd build new?
randomrazr in my case I spent ~$300,000 remodeling a 1949 Sears house because if I tore it down I would have to have relocated it a full 50 feet further back from the road to conform to new setbacks, which would have meant destroying 3 beautiful trees (and making the backyard much smaller, obviously) In the end the architect and builder gave me something much more interesting, and frankly I think tear down and build new would have been ~$320k to ~$330k so I saved some money, and it is more environmentally friendly. The same might not apply here, as the existing house may conform to all current setback requirements and relevant zoning (does Texas even have those? I’ve heard Texas doesn’t often have building requirements beyond national code).
Can you do a seattle house video. We have such a marine climate. Wet
Another 70 years? I didn't know siding could last that long.
Timber siding (we call it cladding down here) on my own home is original, untreated timber. House was built in 1928, so it has lasted 90 years with little deterioration, and most of that has been caused by poor detailing of subsequent work or poor maintenance. This is beachfront, maritime environment, too.
Looking at that building, since the cladding/siding is the only thing there and there are are no sheets of plywood or OSB like modern houses, where does this house get it's racking strength from? I don't see are diagonal wood or metal braces in the video.
Well, down here in NZ we do not use diagonal timber braces, and generally not steel braces, either. In most situations, the interior lining (we call it gib, you guys call it sheetrock) is used in conjunction with hold down fixings to the underfloor structure at the ends of braced units. We brace against earthquake and wind (earthquake is hardest to achieve) and in some cases use denser board with more fixings or with ply panels behind the gib for higher BUs.
It is a quite good system but the downside is that it enables the wallboard manufacturer to maintain a monopoly on the market, since the system is so universally used and specifiers use it by default, so you cannot substitute other products.
Anthony Brusca - Life of any building material is dependent on quality of installation and proportional to maintenance. Better materials primary benefit is a less frequent maintenance schedule. With proper maintenance most materials can last.
My house is 108 years old and has original siding.
Where was this video when I rehabbed my home?
Why not use a air baffle on the ceiling then spray foam over that?
Because it’s a coupled system ,ventless.
@0:58 I see what looks like rot on the bottom board.
the cost of lead abatement for paint prep,, ! I see a house that is cheaper to tear down,, and start a new in the same style... good vid
I do not envy the spray foam crew that has to work that shallow crawlspace.
Matt knows where it's at.
Are you his friend? Because you are basically the only one he commented back to🤨
saturation was raised on the video, but it needs a little more contrast its a bit washed out
You guys live in freaking Texas and you talk about keeping things warm. Right, because you know what cold is.
Prob has lead paint.
How in the hell do you spray foam under a house with a crawl space of 1-1 1/2’ space?
Hire a real skinny labourer
How did you get so educated about this stuff?
👍👊
Money always rules the end of the day, but if there was more and I the designer, would have exposed the roof deck in the vaulted rooms and insulated on the exterior, like commercial. That wood is too nice to cover over if already vaulting the ceiling. If money not a consideration, vault and expose all the roof decking. R21 should be plenty for a mild climate, especially with a metal roof (doesn't hold heat like asphalt), and only be three inches.
emerald and yanny? ;) lol, i had to go there.
The ridge beam to post not done right.
The load transfer needs to go to the ground. It just lands on double top plate to 2x’s.
Serious question: why not go with roxul and allow it to breathe a little and last another 60 years?
(On the underside of roof deck)