I used your procedure the other day and I got the same results as you have shown. Replaced the faulty battery and charged the batteries (4x12v) in a club car. Thanks for the valuable information!
Thanks for posting the video. Very helpful. Do you recommend checking the voltages per the sheet in the video directly after a full charge or wait 24 hours after a full charge to test?
I got a question, I have a 6 8v batteries for a 48v system in a club car. Sitting its at 48.9v which is already low to your chart. What's supposed to be the readings while your driving the cart? My cart when i drive it varies anywhere between 33v to 48v depending on flat ground, slight up hill or when i reach top speed and its not drawing that much of a load any more. If i take it on like a 5 minute run, My battery voltage meter shows it goes down 1-2 bars and the battery light starts blinking. When i come to a stop my voltage practically goes right back up to my 48v-49v? My Batteries have voltage but not the amperage any more?
On a side note.... Who else is pissed that volt meters don't have AC and DC written on them anymore? You have to remember which squiggly line is the right squiggly line.
Great video. Golf cart died on the side of the street. I followed the steps and measured the combined voltage of the battery bank starting at the first 8v battery to sixth battery. The voltages kept increasing as you would expect, I was reading like 42.5v at the 5th battery but when I moved to the last battery in the series it dropped to 2volts? When I check the voltage of this battery by itself it reads 8.4v. What does that mean?
Thank you for the compliment. That’s a good question that you have but you should really watch the video from the three minute mark on. That is truly the way you can find a bad battery/bad cell. They have to be disconnected from one another at full charge and let them sit for 24 hours.
Now keep in mine folks. He is checking volts, not amps. You can check the amps by putting them under a load by using a carbon pile or similar tester. Good luck
Yes but not recommended. You only want to do this as a last option if you have completely dead battery. Like left it them if the charge for a year dead and the golf cart charger isn’t working. That’s because the charger send a small electrical test to the batteries and if it doesn’t get one back. The safety mech kicks in and doesn’t charge the system. So you have to go to every 8V battery and add a little of a charge to it before the charge will work again. (if you don’t have a 36/48v jumper). Then if you do use the 12v as a last resort only leave it on each battery for like 2 or 3 minutes maybe 5 minutes max. Then you can plug in your charge and it should work. I’m sure some experts out there will gladly tell you more about it or what not. Btw this isn’t advice it’s just something I had to do and got away with it once.
You have to make sure you’re on the 2 terminating batteries. 1 has a large cable leading to the solenoid. The black attached to the frame or negative ground. You’re probably on 2 batteries right next to each other in series
@@franzm77 thx for your guidance. I saw one ground cable going to the frame, so i hooked up black probe to that battery post. Then the one battery with red wire (+). Nothing reads higher than 18V. Even when charging. But this golf cart runs fine. Im just trying to install battery charge indicator and need to find out the terminating batterie :(
Yes but then you'd have a 64v golf cart and the electrical components are not necessarily built to handle that voltage. The charger is pre-designed to charge a 48v setup. You'd have to drop $350 for the 64V Accusense Charger. Next, you'd have to replace the motor controller and motor ($1500-2000) The 48v motor would only be good for about 5-10 full throttles before it cooked the brushes and died. The motor controller, probably less. The other components such as gas pedal could also be damaged because they are fed from the motor controller. TL;DR - You would have to gut all the electronics and swap up to components rated for the new voltage in order to last more than a day.
You said what at 50%, 4.81? I’m not making fun. Just trying to clarify my readings and that number has thrown me for a loop. How do you get 50.91 fully charged but 4.81 at 50%? That’s a big swing. Even the CC confirmed that number. Sorry not trying to be a pain just making sure I’m not getting a bad reading on my end. Thanks
I saw SEVERAL write-ups and videos that don't tell me which setting is used for the meter. THANK YOU for including the setting for the meter
I used your procedure the other day and I got the same results as you have shown. Replaced the faulty battery and charged the batteries (4x12v) in a club car. Thanks for the valuable information!
Perfect, thanks for this…that’s graph u put together is gold
Thanks for posting the video. Very helpful. Do you recommend checking the voltages per the sheet in the video directly after a full charge or wait 24 hours after a full charge to test?
Awesome way to remember that about A/C and D/C....
I got a question, I have a 6 8v batteries for a 48v system in a club car. Sitting its at 48.9v which is already low to your chart. What's supposed to be the readings while your driving the cart? My cart when i drive it varies anywhere between 33v to 48v depending on flat ground, slight up hill or when i reach top speed and its not drawing that much of a load any more. If i take it on like a 5 minute run, My battery voltage meter shows it goes down 1-2 bars and the battery light starts blinking. When i come to a stop my voltage practically goes right back up to my 48v-49v? My Batteries have voltage but not the amperage any more?
Thanks for showing me... I really do appreciate it
I have a 48v system, at full charge it reads 42 total, 8.1 per battery?
Thank you, super helpful!
great video thank you
My series just read 50.2
Why is it higher than 48?
On a side note.... Who else is pissed that volt meters don't have AC and DC written on them anymore? You have to remember which squiggly line is the right squiggly line.
I go with the DisConnected line for DC - - -
Easy way to remember the symbols is AC looks like a sine wave, DC looks like a Washington DC building.
Only way to properly check them are under load. Just checking surface charge reading doesn't mean much at all.
Thx for the info❤
Thank you!!
The way I remember the setting for DC voltage is the line is DisConnected. - - -
Does anyone know where to get that battery chart from?
Google
Screen shot
Great video. Golf cart died on the side of the street. I followed the steps and measured the combined voltage of the battery bank starting at the first 8v battery to sixth battery. The voltages kept increasing as you would expect, I was reading like 42.5v at the 5th battery but when I moved to the last battery in the series it dropped to 2volts? When I check the voltage of this battery by itself it reads 8.4v. What does that mean?
Thank you for the compliment. That’s a good question that you have but you should really watch the video from the three minute mark on. That is truly the way you can find a bad battery/bad cell. They have to be disconnected from one another at full charge and let them sit for 24 hours.
Tow mode on golf cart
Now keep in mine folks. He is checking volts, not amps. You can check the amps by putting them under a load by using a carbon pile or similar tester. Good luck
Where can I get the diagram showing me what a 36v set of batteries should be?
That sheet covers every voltage including 6 volt batteries and 36 volts. the 36v column is left of the 48v column he is referencing. Hope this helps!
@@generalpurpose937 where can I find that sheet? What should i type into Google?
Google image search: 48 volt golf cart voltage chart
Can you charge 8 volt golf cart batteries with a. 12volt charger?
Yes but not recommended. You only want to do this as a last option if you have completely dead battery. Like left it them if the charge for a year dead and the golf cart charger isn’t working. That’s because the charger send a small electrical test to the batteries and if it doesn’t get one back. The safety mech kicks in and doesn’t charge the system. So you have to go to every 8V battery and add a little of a charge to it before the charge will work again. (if you don’t have a 36/48v jumper). Then if you do use the 12v as a last resort only leave it on each battery for like 2 or 3 minutes maybe 5 minutes max. Then you can plug in your charge and it should work. I’m sure some experts out there will gladly tell you more about it or what not. Btw this isn’t advice it’s just something I had to do and got away with it once.
If I am at 80% from your chart should I be worried?
Is it bad to use a 48V charger on a 36V cart?
Where Can I print off the sheet of values of the batteries?
Google 48v batteries charge cheat sheet. You’re welcome
If I disable the OBC or On Board Computer
on my 2006 Club Car Precedent, can I use a
LINKS Series charger EPS by Lester Electric
to charge my cart?
Thank you so much no where on the internet does it show how to read the voltage meter thank you!!!!!
Weird all mine are reading 8.80….all for the series it’s reading 52.09
Why is my pack (6 batteries x 8v) showing 17 volts across? I tried every battery locations
You have to make sure you’re on the 2 terminating batteries. 1 has a large cable leading to the solenoid. The black attached to the frame or negative ground. You’re probably on 2 batteries right next to each other in series
@@franzm77 thx for your guidance. I saw one ground cable going to the frame, so i hooked up black probe to that battery post. Then the one battery with red wire (+). Nothing reads higher than 18V. Even when charging. But this golf cart runs fine. Im just trying to install battery charge indicator and need to find out the terminating batterie :(
Can you add 2 more batteries? I see there's the space available
Yes but then you'd have a 64v golf cart and the electrical components are not necessarily built to handle that voltage.
The charger is pre-designed to charge a 48v setup. You'd have to drop $350 for the 64V Accusense Charger.
Next, you'd have to replace the motor controller and motor ($1500-2000) The 48v motor would only be good for about 5-10 full throttles before it cooked the brushes and died. The motor controller, probably less. The other components such as gas pedal could also be damaged because they are fed from the motor controller.
TL;DR - You would have to gut all the electronics and swap up to components rated for the new voltage in order to last more than a day.
You said what at 50%, 4.81? I’m not making fun. Just trying to clarify my readings and that number has thrown me for a loop. How do you get 50.91 fully charged but 4.81 at 50%? That’s a big swing. Even the CC confirmed that number. Sorry not trying to be a pain just making sure I’m not getting a bad reading on my end. Thanks
He misspoke he meant to say 48.41
your checking voltage, not current, there in series, you chasing a ghost
This made my brain hurt