Homebuilt ROV Submarine - Seafox Class
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2017
- In this video I show how to build a remotely operated vehicle (ROV) submarine from inexpensive materials. At the end of the video there is some footage of the ROV in action.
Sealing wire exit holes: www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtosea...
Relay wiring diagram: www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtorel...
Waterproof housings: www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtosim...
Brilliant.....To build with no cnc no 3d print ,just stuff from a normal life ... that is very cool and creative ....
You are good at explaining things so everybody understands technical details.
yes
Nice job, Nathan!
Well done!! This video answered so many of the questions I had in my head, before starting my own project.. Thank you for making this video.
Awesome job explaining the details , makes it simple to understand and very thoroughly documented! Thx so much!
Thanks! I’m just getting started with my own and this video cleared up some final uncertainties I still had! Keep up the good work!
Great job and very well done!!! 👍🏻
me too
amazing explanation from this gentleman.... well done , and thank you for your teaching...
man, just wanted to say, awesome step-by-step explanation. bravo!
Awesome job Nathan. My son's home school 2013 class and I built an ROV submarine. They were unable to complete it that year and he graduated, so the following years home school class completed it. They took it to the 2014 NASA Neutral Buoyancy Lab competition and placed third. I was pretty proud of those guys. It' funny you guys come up with some of the same ideas we had including the controls and buoyancy. However we didn't have the weights on the bottom. I thought that was a great idea, just don't bump into anything to fast or the loose marble weights will slide to one side and tilt the sub. We opted to use connectors at anything that required power or could fail, that way we could easily unplug it and change it quickly. There's a video of it on my channel if you want to see it, "Submarine ROV Robot built from Scratch". Again nice job. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Very nice! It was professionally presented and you hit a lot of important points well!
good video, excellent wiring diagram, very user friendly, i built a sea perch underwater rov and thinking about upgrading and this video and links will help, thank you
Love the video & good luck with your work.
You might want to use a 4S LiPo with a very high C rating if the motors are drawing so much current. Onboard batteries are a must because of the huge power loss along the tether.
Awesome...very good job...
Good Job mate, thanks for details
Awesome video!
Great video
Very well done. Thanks!
very nice channel!
Hey, need more current to the ROV change DC to AC boost voltage from 5VDC to 40K VAC, Reverse the process in the ROV.
This is cheap to make and do. This allows for thinner wires and more APS.This goes back to Tesla and Edison and cable size voltage and line loss. Tesla one. You can also run more than one wire pair. Also, add a few batteries in the Sub to hold down loaded energy for high draw needs and charge them at low draw times. Like a Prius. Good luck with the changes.
That would definitely be bad. The AC would induce current in the tether and definitely mess up the camera signal. Not to mention an arc could easily form, and you would definitely get a fatal shock if you accidentally come in contact with the live wires. The best solution is an onboard battery. It doesn't need to be a car battery, it can be a LiPo.
if you run SLA batteries, they are already water proof. You would only need to find a way to keep the posts from corroding. I would solder some leads on the batts, then cover the exposed metal with brush on electrical tape (ie rubberized paint)
I'm sure by now you are working for DARPA. Thanks for sharing! Bravo Zulu!
nice video , will try to do it buy with a pb and arduino to add some sensors. Thx for the video
is there a link you could post to a diagram with onboard batteries?
GREAT video by the way! Best detailed overview ive seen!
I have not been able to find very much material about onboard batteries. I investigated the idea myself, but never actually tested anything. The forums on homebuiltrovs.com might have some good advice. The openROVs are powered by onboard batteries too.
Nice job :)
Great video. The one issue is the volume levels, inconsistent, maybe set volume levels before uploading video.
Nathan do you have any diagrams of your framework especially the lights how you made them adjustable
This frame is similar to mine: www.homebuiltrovs.com/seafoxretrofitframe.html
The adjustable light joints are made from T-fittings that I cut the top off of. I used hose clamps to attach the light pods.
The dimensions of the frame are really up to you. A longer and narrower frame would go faster since there's less cross-sectional area, but a wider frame with the motors further apart would make turning easier since the motors could produce more torque. Using thinner pipe would also reduce the cross-sectional area.
I personally think my frame is a bit on the large side so the submarine doesn't go very fast, but that also makes it very stable. Another advantage is that it's big enough that I can carry the video monitor, the remote, and any other equipment within the frame, so that the submarine functions as its own carrying case.
Not a bad idea,kool
nice design its help me by 2:17
hey do the bilge pump work in reverse direction. Like my doubt is how is the vehicle coming up after it has gone into the water
I cut the housings off of them to attach propellers, which do work in reverse. By reversing the current to the pumps you can make them spin the other direction. If you choose to keep the housing attached, however, the pump will function like a jet and you will have to use a separate pump pointing the other way for reverse.
you are using seaflo bilge pump but how many gallons per hour? the reason i ask is that there are many seaflo 12 volt bilge pumps all with different flow rates which did you use?
other than that...thanks for the inspiration
I’m using 1100 gph pumps.
Thanks good information. Maybe go back to phisics class though or basic electronics. My camera and motors run off the same battery as does everyone's who does rc fpv. A capacitor on the power in will eliminate most feedback/noise from the motors. Me LEDs run off the same battery. The resistor is just generating heat and wasting power. A pdb or power distribution board is used. They're cheap
what type of motor (thruster) did you use? thank you
I used Seaflo 1100 gph bilge pumps. Another common brand is Rule. There’s a link to instructions to convert the bilge pumps to thrusters in the description.
were did you get the 8 pin relays at, and how much did they cost? and can you also explain and show how you wired up the relays
I got the relays from Amazon. There are a variety to choose from. You will want double pole, double throw (DPDT) relays, that are sealed so the wax doesn’t get in. Also, make sure the relays can handle the current required by your motors. There is an article about how to wire the relays in the description.
thank you
So is there some kind of splitter on the rov that the speaker wire hooks up to to provide power to the thrusters?
The wiring diagram can be found here: www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtorelaywiringdpdt.html. I hope this helps.
Did you use cat 5 pairs to connect the relays?
@@EchoHawk1862 Yes, I did.
Nice video, thx for sharing!
What type of wax is that btw? o_O
The wax I use now is from candles. I tried a toilet gasket first, but the wax wasn't hard enough and water kept seeping in.
Hey! I have a submarine project and I'm wondering what cable I need for fpv to work?
I just chose a cable with some RF shielding and the appropriate number of wires to hook up to the camera (3 in my case). I had a lot of trouble getting the FPV to work properly, so it might be worth considering buying a designated underwater fishing camera with a really long cable.
These two sections on the Homebuilt ROV Forum might have some more information:
www.homebuiltrovs.com/rovforum/viewforum.php?f=15&sid=e19036ce7796862a77d0d83ff8176424
www.homebuiltrovs.com/rovforum/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=e19036ce7796862a77d0d83ff8176424
I also found this article especially helpful for figuring out how to connect all the wires:
www.homebuiltrovs.com/rovforum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1584
@@nathanbroman1601 Thx a lot!
Niceee
How deep can it go? Probably not 100 feet (the length of the cable). You talk about water proofing. But we need to consider the pressure too.
I'm not sure how deep it can dive, but as you pointed out, it is limited by the length of the cable. The furthest I have ever dived with it is about 20 feet. Last summer I strapped an underwater camera, which was rated for 50 feet, to it to capture onboard video. I suspect that the biggest waterproofing danger is water leaking in through the threads on the PVC pipe housings or forcing its way through the wax in the relay box. I should also point out that even though I used wax from a toilet gasket in the video, I have since switched to candle wax, which is more solid. Epoxy would be rock-solid, but would also be almost impossible to remove for maintenance.
Can we make the ROV autonomous? if yes do you have any price approximation ?
I haven't looked into any autonomous underwater capabilities. There are some ROV Facebook groups that would probably have more information on that subject though.
Where is the link to how to modify the bilge pump?
Here it is: www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtobilgeconversion.html. I hope this helps.
What is the peak current for this motor?
3 Amps. Seaflo and Rule might also sell some other sizes of pumps.
How much does it cost Mr. nathan
I’m not actually sure, a lot of the materials I already had leftover from other projects. Also, some of the components, especially the relays, I had to buy several of after I broke some of them.
What's the voltage running through the phone/cat line
I initially had the voltage at 12V, but I recently raised it to 14.8V using a 4S limo battery. That gives the submarine some more power and makes it easier to drive.
@@nathanbroman1601 are there any fuses in the circuit.
@@enigma3654 no, but it would probably be a good idea to add some. I think the bilge pumps have some though.
@@nathanbroman1601 one last question. Did you have issues with the amps of the battery running through the ethernet cable
@@enigma3654 The ethernet cable carries the current to switch the relays, while the speaker wire carries more current to run the motors. The only problem I've had is that there's a voltage drop over the speaker wire, which reduces the power of the motors.
It's possible to mitigate this problem by using a bigger and/or shorter cable, supplying more voltage, or using onboard batteries.
this guy has a few bodies in his refrigerator.
Sir can I buy one from you
I'm sorry, I don't sell ROVs or drones. There are several ROV submarines and underwater drones on the market though.
What is the weight of the bot?
18.6 pounds, not including the tether.
It's not the volts that kill you it's watts
and then he became the red dragon
Propellers: no protection against algues.
I made an Underwater ROV in 5th grade.
I’m uncomfortable listening to him speak and looking into the camera!
He's going to have to become a better actor if he hopes to blend in...and remember, only kill the bad people...
He’s the guy you want to befriend!!! As he’s walking through the cafeteria, reloading his homemade grenade launchers and remotely blowing up cars in the parking lot!...’Hey, buddy, wanna come over for a bonfire? Please don’t kill me...’
Still A better submersible than Titan from OceanGate😂