ROV arcade and basic Controller Box - DIY submarine Seaperch projects
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- Опубликовано: 22 ноя 2019
- What good is the best DIY-ROV without an adequate Controll Box? However since there are few instructions or guides out there I felt compelled to share my experiences with you guys. Hope you enjoy it.
Both standard- and Arcade Style Controllers with low cost methods.
ROV Thruster Housing - • ROV Thruster Housings ...
ROV Lighting - • SeaPerch ROV Lighting ...
ROV SeaPerch - • Extreme SeaPerch ROV -...
ROV Depth Gauge - • Selfmade ROV DEPTH Gau...
ROV Tether Projects - • ROV Tether Projects To...
ROV Bilgepump Thrusters - • Homemade ROV engines w...
ROV Wiring - • Wiring your ROV contro... 
Наука
It's so cool when Mermaids come to see your ROV
I’ll be sure to pass that on… 😌👍🏻🧜🏼♀️
I need a step-by-step video of this project, form the construction of the frame, the wiring connections, and the control pad.
Well for the wiring I do have a step by step video.
@@agermangineer pls, I need the link to the video.
The frame also, I need the dimension of the PVC pipe and where I can get to buy the bilge pump for the thruster, and another main component.
@@Kingpoker__ Dude, it’s all on my channel. Here’s the link to the wiring video: ruclips.net/video/Hx78yZjKz-w/видео.html
@@agermangineer thank you
good job
Nice job !how did you mount the propeller on the pump? Do you need to remove some parts to access the pump shaft?
Alain C yup. First you have to saw off the white Pump housing and then jimmy off the plastic disc from the pump shaft and that’s it. There are numerous videos on RUclips that show you how it’s done. Just look for bilgepump ROV thruster and you should find something. :-)
Excellent, thanks for posting these videos. I'm really new at this so please pardon the dumb questions. [All of my questions are about your second controller.] Are you using the same RJ45 Cat splinter that you used onboard the ROV? What are the 2 silver switches for? Is that black box in plastic your battery? (I was expecting to see more like a car battery)
Yep, same splitter! The two silver switches are merely there to turn on the intake voltage indicator of the incoming power source and the USB-charger. And finally: yes that small box is the battery. And yes, it is small an cheap, though quite powerful: probably 2x3 3.7 Volt batteries (type 18650) in series.That gives you at least 8 Ah that will last you about an hour. Love it!!
@@agermangineer Thanks! I've been working on the power part for a couple of days now but I haven't had much luck finding a comparable battery on the internet. Can you tell me where you got it?
Could you please make a video with a circuit diagram, necessary components just for the arcade controller please!
Well, you have seen this, right? ruclips.net/video/Hx78yZjKz-w/видео.html
It has a wiring diagram, shows all the necessary components and most of it is about the joystick. 😀
it would be nice if the dpdt switches were momentary ones
I agree, but I had some issues with those. Nonetheless, I switched over to the Arcade for obvious reasons.
Can you explain what you used to divide up the power a little bit more? (those little clear boxes with the white tabs. You didn't know the name of them in English)
Jiggle.The.Handle ok, first of all cool nickname!! Reminds me of Jeff Foxworthy.
Anyway; google translator keeps calling them terminal blocks. Does that ring a bell? The way they work is you take a bare electrical cable that bears power. And over this terminal block you can distribute the power over to the other cables, which are also clipped into this Little box.
You could also just solder them together or use any other method to spread your incoming power to other lines of power. Anything that keeps resistance at an absolute minimum. The better those power connections work, the less power you lose. And yes, poor wiring really does cost you power!
On my very first project I basically just twirled some of the thin wires together... never again! 😃
@@agermangineer Duh - terminal blocks. I wish I had paid more attention in my electrical engineering class LOL thanks
Du bist direkt mit der 12V Leitung auf den Arcade Style Controllers gegangen, und dann auf das Relay , oder vertragen die Microschalter die 12V nicht?
Die laufen alle auf 12 Volt…?!
Where in the chain did you put the 12v regulator would you mind producing a wiring diagram for it ? no worries if thats a problem.
Well, that is a problem because the regulator only varies the engines, not the „chain“-LEDs.
But if you want to dim the lights, just wire it to the tether. That’s really simple:
+/- from the 12 volt power source into the regulator and from the regulator to the lights. 😁👍🏻
@@agermangineer Sorry I meant the motors not the lights.
@@matthewbennett2844 oh ok, well once again: check out my wiring Video at: 5:54 (Not this Video)
Here: ruclips.net/video/Hx78yZjKz-w/видео.html
@@agermangineer oh my lord now you mention it I remember it's in that video. Sorry.
Where can I get those relays with the green led?
www.ebay.de/itm/265704341943?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=MTqRJJj_Q4e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=l2ig-GVYRiu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
However, they are indeed quite massive. Smaller ones also do the trick. Unless you specifically want the visible technology - like I do.
In case the link doesn’t work, search for:
12V DC Coil Power Relay LY2NJ DPDT 8 Pin HH62P JQX-13F With Socket Base
Thanks for the reply 😁
Ok, I have a question. Is Touch muh hull = Taj mahal?
Yep. 😌