@@Zeloverevolution I'd say go for it! Considering how many shortcuts I took it and not knowing what settings to use it prints surprisingly well imo. Tho if it's not urgent I recommend you wait until I do the video about all my design mistakes so you can avoid doing the same ones 😆
I got NEMA17 (big ones) from a junk seller. I will follow your steps to build my own 3d printer Someday I guess 🙃 as I don't have all the necessary tools and budget.
MASSIVE congratulations on this project success. I cannot fathom how you were able to design and BUILD a functional 3D printer without even having worked with one before....For $50... It's actually astonishing!
@@ConorFenlon not the end of the road yet! I still have to install lead screws for it to be able to compete with other printers in terms of accuracy, but I was also really surprised that it works! As it is right now I've used ~$45 of the budget, the rest is margin for glue, screws and hardware I couldn't reasonably keep track of 😂
I love this, it takes me back to when I used to maintain a MendelMax and Mendel90 for my local makerspace. Massive props for taking a huge leap of faith with the famous (or infamous) RAMPS boards :D
I was about to make my own diy 3d printer 2 days ago when I found your channel, after finishing all your videos I think I'm going to find a job and just buy one... Anyways your amazing, this is the most amazing and sincere project I've found on this platform. I have 5 dollars on Paypal that I've been saving to subscribe to diy perks Patreon for his schematics but u think you deserve it :)
Yeah... If you just want a 3D printer it's certainly the cheapest to buy an ender 3 during a clearance sale somewhere or even a second hand one. Microcenter once had them for $100 I've heard. Making one for cheaper than the mass produced ones is pretty time consuming and requires a lot of cut corners :( Also, filament is expensive and will quickly add up to exceed the upfront cost of buying the printer, I already spent as much on filament as on this printer. Btw please don't support me on patreon if you can't really afford it, I would just feel guilty :)
Very nice! If you really feel like playing later, here are my suggestions: first, inkjet printers have a sliding carriage that can act like a stepper motor using a separate arduino or ESP32. Cheap, doesn't skip steps, and can go very fast. Second, Klipper can make a cheap printer go faster. Pressure advance is the biggest feature, but also being able to use multiple MCUs in different places makes printer design easier. Third, the longer the bowden tube the more resistance the extruder has to fight. You might get better performance if you can shorten the tube. Fourth, G10/FR4 makes a surprisingly good bed material. Even Nylon sticks to it. Lighter than glass too, so the bed can accelerate faster. Just hit it with soap and water the first time you use it. Overall this is an incredible build!! If you choose to play with the inkjet printers, say something and I'll post a video to help out along with a link to the code I used.
Thanks! Yes, I totally plan on using inkjet printer motors in the future! I was gonna make a driver for them like you suggest, but ultimately I might have to rely on existing solutions because my coding skills are abysmal, so yeah if you could do a video it would be awesome!! Extruder: I plan on going direct drive soon anyways to get rid of the bowden tube altogether. I've heard of kipper but it sounds really confusing coming from a GRBL background...
Great! It's honestly much better code than I expected. The only hard part was figuring out how to consistently identify the encoder pin out, and once I got that, it was easy to repeat. I'll try to get that video made soon!
@adamamott6637 thanks so much! There's not much info on 3D printers with DC motors out there yet as far as I know Edit: no hurry with the video, I've still got a backlog of stepper motor projects to work through
@@ChronicMechatronic As far as Klipper goes, it was easier than I thought it would be. I switched a few weeks ago for a custom printer and ended up installing it everywhere because it was so easy. I have an Arduino Mega controller and it still moves at 900mm/s! I'll add my favorite tutorial in case you want to mess around. It runs great on any ancient laptop, don't need a Pi.
You're right, basically no info is available on DC motors for printers. I've only seen one, from the guy who wrote the code and used it on the X axis. But it makes the Arduino act like an A4988, so t's basically a drop-in replacement! I just need to make the video before I get distracted 😆
Ended up here by random YT recommendation. But anyway watching, albeit bit skipping parts here and there. It's refreshing to see peole do these "back to the origins" stuff thats about as much diy as it can be, instead of millionth Voron build etc. GJ.
Yeah, all those identical 3D printers really bore me to death as well... There's something to be said about the evolution of a design reaching conclusion, and IMO 3D printers in general have done just that. There's nothing to add, the reason printers these days are designed the way they are, is because it's the simplest, cheapest, and most functional way to go about it. I see people really enjoy this series because of the "back to the origins" approach, which is funny because I just really didn't know what I was doing when I designed this machine. Even my next printer will be much more similar to the standard ender/prusa design albeit out of more trash.
@@ChronicMechatronic I mostly mean "back to the origins" just commonly the so-t-say RepRap movement, which included figuring things out and assembling pretty much everything yourself. I don't think most knew what they were doing in the beginning :)
Thanks :) That's great, because I want to lean more into recycling, with 3D printing I plan on adding plastic recycling to the mix! I also did a video some time ago about my electronic component recovery process
4:00 Barrel jacks are the worst for polarity reversal because there's no color coding, and some power supplies are positive inside and some negative inside, and you never know which one a device wants unless it's labeled or you follow the PCB traces to something of known polarity.
@@ChronicMechatronic I've run across exactly ONE in the decades that I've been tinkering so it's possible. That taught me to always check, even if it's highly improbable.
@@quinbee_creates cheapass dollarstore type products I imagine? Like you can get USB cables with incorrectly color coded strands from China because they can't be bothered to stick to conventions? Either way I always check my power supplies because they were in the ewaste bin and don't always work - sadly 😢
@@ChronicMechatronic Nah, this was years before dollar stores proliferated. Might have just been the manufacturer attempting to keep people locked into using their components.
Hi Ben! Greaat post! I watched it on my tiny phone screen. I'm going to appreciate it on a way larger screen. Really amazing and instructive part of your achievement. Can't wait the next post.🎉🎉🎉
I know you know this, but those BYJ motors are easy enough to pop the plastic shrouds off of and short the trace on the pcb that makes them unipolar. Just scrape out the trace with a razor blade and boom you can run them off the a4988.
Instead of buying a hot plate I actually bought a hair straightener with a wide base. It can go up to 230 degrees Celsius which is slightly above the melting point of my solder paste. The whole setup works really well
When I started using tin silver solder I got a sixty watt controlled temp station it lasted ten years it would have lasted a lifetime with lead tin solder but it did work well until it broke
You can try connecting old 220V soldering iron to the bridge rectifier with some capacitors (4.7 - 20 uF) . It will boost up the voltage and it might get hot enough to melt lead-free solder. Other thing I've noticed is that not all lead-free solders are equal. Some roll of chinese noname lead-free solder didn't really want to melt, but plumbing tin-antimony alloy (95-5) solder melted much nicer, despite being bigger diameter.
Yeah I'm skipping some steps... Little squares of plywood with a hole stacked on a screw and tightened with a nut. Stick screw in cordless drill and touch the spinning thing against the running belt sander until they're round and the right size. Pretty much the exact same way I made those custom metal washers in episode 4 ruclips.net/video/tF-yNkTIu4g/видео.html (timecode link) If I had a laser cutter I would've cut them on there including the cardboard ones for the hotbed, but that's the next project 😅
Buy an 80W temperature regulated soldering iron. They only cost $10-15 and can solder tiny stuff and big fat wires since power is only delivered as needed.
In the grand scheme of things I'm actually still just a beginner in electronics. Never really got into the AC side of things, let alone HF... It's mostly just acquaintance with ohms law and basic analog circuitry that shapes up to this after years of practical experience. There are actually only a few very basic ways of combining components to achieve something in circuit design and after a while you start recognizing these patterns and being able to apply them yourself :) Depending on how familiar you already are with electronics, I recommend watching a few electronics 101 courses or similar here in RUclips to get comfortable with how electricity works, then grab a breadboard, a multimeter and a few components and start building circuits! All the theoretical knowledge in the world is no match to getting some hands on experience and actually seeing measurable currents/voltages affirm your earlier calculations. It really helps with getting a hang of it. There are dozens of sites/channels featuring simple circuits to replicate, like timers, dimmer switches, flashers, dusk sensors and other fun mini projects. This is pretty much what I did for years. There is a channel called @BBCircuitsbySteveMorrison that I did a sort of collab developing a circuit with a while back - he unfortunately seems to have stopped uploading but has a couple of good explainer videos and examples circuits on his channel already. An OG channel I've been watching for years that I can really recommend is @bigclivedotcom. Lots of second hand practical experience to gain even though it tends to get slightly repetitive at times. So yeah, I hope this helps a bit, best of luck in your journey!
Redmi note 10 pro. It's quite good but at some point I could definitely do with a real camera, hopefully sponsors will take care of that 😆 I got sent a wireless mic which I'll use the video after the next one, I really hope that solves my audio clipping issues. My voice is just too loud for the mic I'm using rn 😂
About leaded solder wire you have to look at big electronict components distributors like Digikey, Mouser or TME. Dont know where You are from but looking at power plugs i deduct somewhere in Europe so I will recomend TME. But yeah leaded solder wire aint cheap nowdays. Great work with that printer. Little tpis for wooden frame- try to keep it dry/ constant humidity. Wood will warp and all alignment will be gone (alk me how I now :) ) Edit : Looked at TME and you can get 0,25kg Sn60Pb40 wire for ~15$
That's actually a really great suggestion, thanks, I just checked out the SKR mini E3 and the fact that the schematic is public would allow me to base my own board off of it without having to mess with the software 🤔😅
Yeah this shield was by far the most complex design I've done to date, had I not just copied Ramps I'd definitely have made some fatal mistake 😂 The SKR mini looks pretty similar overall, it mostly just has a few DC/DC regulators and other support components added
Now that caliberation of the printer is remaining, Please keep a hand on the power switch or switches as you and the printer do not know where it's going to go and what are the limits! I have a lot of experience of crashing gantries and skipping stepper motors in the middle of the night!
OMG I totally forgot that, even though I preached it myself in the pen plotter series 😂 I'm already through that most dangerous initial phase of calibration and it went smoother than I ever imagined!
@@ChronicMechatronic I have seen you used 19.5 V laptop adapter it might give you around 100 Watt, So even if you use boost converter removing 100 watt + 30watt ( supposing 80% efficiently) ≈ 130, ≈ 370 Watt Still left, removing 30 Watt per stepper motor - 30 efficiency = 120 Watt so 250 Watt Still left so on Is it not enough!!!?? If not why not use direct Ac regulated by Dimmer controller! I am wondering.
oh, and just occurred to me. Maybe you can run klipper using a cheaper micro. you could use a linux installation in a computer so you dont need an sbc!
nice! you should take a look at klipper than. it uses the host to a much greater extent. The mcu only takes care of sensors and stepping, so you could use something cheaper and better like an st micro or an rp2040
why didn't you switch to one oversized 24V power suply or 24+19v on oryginal ramps design? also it probably be cheaper to ...get 10$ ramps knokof board and just remove the power sockets and solder power wires directly, (because the green terminals on knokof boards are coper coated steel and can burn under load , ask me how i know) so if you can integrate power wires directly or at least check with magnet if yout barrel jack sockets are copper or copper coated steel, because it makes a dirrerence you can't see at first alsoo just use longer header pins
I don't have an oversized 24 volt power supply. Yeah I figured those cheap Chinese screw terminals would have a lot of resistance, I was glad the ones I salvaged were high quality european made. I'm pretty sure most barrel jacks are copper coated steel, but since I'm running those individuals circuits on rather low amperages I wasn't really worried.
@@ChronicMechatronic i run my resistive wire homemade bed heater from 12 V so in my case the connectors kind of melted but i am more interested why you run heater from 19V it basically loses 1/5 of power compared to runing it from 24V and i doubt higher voltage would hurt it, but it would heat up faster and self balance better if the bed doesn't have enough thermal mass.. one thing to note is that your setup is potentially more stable for accurate prints like this, in my case bed pull down the voltage rail steppers runs at and that makes them have less umft, not much less but the same can be said about the hot end and some layers simply lookless shiny or ger under/overextruded ... but it is a 3d printer made of drawer bearings and 3d printed parts so that might be irrelevant
@kokodin5895 I only used 19.5v because that's what the laptop power brick I found in an ewaste collection bin delivers. I actually really like this approach, AC adapters for consumer electronics get thrown out by the hundreds, and more often than not they still work. Laptop power bricks being the biggest amongst them, the 120W one I used may have been barely enough for my large size bed but for a standard 200x200mm it would be plenty. Noise isolation is indeed an advantage, since my hotend and fans are on one 12v rail I can hear the fans slowing down when the heater kicks in. I may have gone a little over the top with 5 separate supplies, but a third more powerful one to power all the motors wouldn't be as crazy as it seems. The big 12/24V power supplies used in most 3D printers also have a separate 5V supply inside to power the electronics...
Actually they don`t. They either put out 12 or 24V. The controller boards have step down regulators for the 5v logic. The ramps uses 5v from the Arduino Mega, but all other modern boards have own 5V stage.@@ChronicMechatronic
That's normal, it's the exact same in the original Ramps. By shorting out the power supply it clamps the voltage and protacts the electronics. So long as you don't use a crazy powerful supply or even a traditional transformer based one it's fine because almost all switch mode power supplies shut down if they're overloaded and for a brief second these diodes can endure a multiple of their constant current rating.
Please get yourself a better soldering iron, it will make your life so much easier. For example T12 soldering irons from China just cost around 35€ and I can promise you that you will never want to go back to your old one. And soldering with lead free solder is also no problem with T12 tips
I got a 908s ordered 😅 It may not have active temperature control but I can see if it works better for the time being, because when I get a real soldering station I want it to include a hot air gun
@@ChronicMechatronic voron switchwire, a DIY printer that is possibly one of the most expensive bed slingers one could build. they are quite well known in the community but given you built from the ground up with no prior experience I guess you haven't come across it.
@Altirix_ oooh haha I see! Yeah I've never really been interested in 3D printing so all I know is basically Ender 3 and Prusa. Got a lot to catch up with 😂
Aarrgh stop nitpicking 😂 Had I spent 100 hours more to etch the PCB myself people would've commented I should just buy the boards. Y'all know I have to accommodate sponsors to help pay for at least a fraction of the insane amount of time I spend making these videos 😂
@@ChronicMechatronic I get it brother I just find it funny, you did a great job managing the cost unlike 100$ CNC build where owner already had 600$ worth of stuff lying around. now im not sure how cost effective this is but I often salvage perfectly working nema 17 and nema 14 stepper motors off old inkjet, inktank and those bill printers that I get for free (I remove the motors and return the rest to the scrapyard/e-waste management) and most of these printers already have a working linear actuator inside that is used to drive the print head around in printers with comes with rather good quality linear rods and belts, why am I saving this? maybe if you manage to salvage this you could manage to build the frame out of wood (I did this back in 2016 when the technology was rather new but for z axis i salvaged 4 cm linear actuator with stepper motor from dvd/CD readers used in computers each one from e waste was 0.3$)
@@xecarfa9755 haha I know my math is shoddy, I also used like $5 of plywood I had laying around, I think there may be a lower end limit to how cheap a 3D printer can be built without sacrificing functionality entirely like the easythreed... Barring some very special circumstances like getting to salvage a functional motherboard off another broken 3D printer it might actually be impossible to truly make one for just $50. I am learning a lot on this project, including why sometimes using more expensive parts is actually desirable. I've never seen NEMA type stepper motors in printers and such, only ever one 200step/revolution stepper in a Canon flatbed scanner. I also collect all those parts, my next 3D printer will likely use linear rods from inkjet printers and scrap metal tubing for the frame.
@@ChronicMechatronic I got nema 17's all from old bill printers (i verified by mounting holes) I've about 8 of those all salvaged and one wasn't working when I checked the mounting holes it was off by few mm's when I dug deep it turned out to be 7.2° stepper motor (around 7.2 not exactly sure) with all the modernization and fast production i mostly found servo type motors in new printers (I had found a cannon inkjet printer 2022 model god knows why it ended up in e waste so fast) which use a optical film to track the motor kind of like a servo, those i found to be extremely hard to use other than that all the ones I've salvaged were quite good though I must say getting the pressed gear tooth off them was quite the pain
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Ben from the future here to tell you: the shield is fully functional and the printer prints!!! Stay tuned for the next episode!!
Can't wait! This project is giving me the confidence I need to design and build my own printer
@@Zeloverevolution I'd say go for it! Considering how many shortcuts I took it and not knowing what settings to use it prints surprisingly well imo. Tho if it's not urgent I recommend you wait until I do the video about all my design mistakes so you can avoid doing the same ones 😆
I got NEMA17 (big ones) from a junk seller. I will follow your steps to build my own 3d printer
Someday I guess 🙃 as I don't have all the necessary tools and budget.
MASSIVE congratulations on this project success. I cannot fathom how you were able to design and BUILD a functional 3D printer without even having worked with one before....For $50... It's actually astonishing!
@@ConorFenlon not the end of the road yet! I still have to install lead screws for it to be able to compete with other printers in terms of accuracy, but I was also really surprised that it works! As it is right now I've used ~$45 of the budget, the rest is margin for glue, screws and hardware I couldn't reasonably keep track of 😂
I love this, it takes me back to when I used to maintain a MendelMax and Mendel90 for my local makerspace. Massive props for taking a huge leap of faith with the famous (or infamous) RAMPS boards :D
Haha I only went with Ramps and Marlin because Arduino and GRBL is all I'm (somewhat) familiar with 😆
I didn't skip. I really appreciate the detail you've been going into with your videos. Can't wait to see this machine working.
Very cool project, totally in the spirit of RepRap and open source. Can’t wait to see how it goes in the next episode!
Wow, This is probably the coolest printer I have ever seen. I can't wait to see your printer when it is printing.
I was about to make my own diy 3d printer 2 days ago when I found your channel, after finishing all your videos I think I'm going to find a job and just buy one...
Anyways your amazing, this is the most amazing and sincere project I've found on this platform. I have 5 dollars on Paypal that I've been saving to subscribe to diy perks Patreon for his schematics but u think you deserve it :)
3D printer is one of these thing that are cheaper to buy than to build.
Yeah... If you just want a 3D printer it's certainly the cheapest to buy an ender 3 during a clearance sale somewhere or even a second hand one. Microcenter once had them for $100 I've heard. Making one for cheaper than the mass produced ones is pretty time consuming and requires a lot of cut corners :(
Also, filament is expensive and will quickly add up to exceed the upfront cost of buying the printer, I already spent as much on filament as on this printer.
Btw please don't support me on patreon if you can't really afford it, I would just feel guilty :)
Very nice! If you really feel like playing later, here are my suggestions: first, inkjet printers have a sliding carriage that can act like a stepper motor using a separate arduino or ESP32. Cheap, doesn't skip steps, and can go very fast.
Second, Klipper can make a cheap printer go faster. Pressure advance is the biggest feature, but also being able to use multiple MCUs in different places makes printer design easier.
Third, the longer the bowden tube the more resistance the extruder has to fight. You might get better performance if you can shorten the tube.
Fourth, G10/FR4 makes a surprisingly good bed material. Even Nylon sticks to it. Lighter than glass too, so the bed can accelerate faster. Just hit it with soap and water the first time you use it.
Overall this is an incredible build!! If you choose to play with the inkjet printers, say something and I'll post a video to help out along with a link to the code I used.
Thanks! Yes, I totally plan on using inkjet printer motors in the future! I was gonna make a driver for them like you suggest, but ultimately I might have to rely on existing solutions because my coding skills are abysmal, so yeah if you could do a video it would be awesome!!
Extruder: I plan on going direct drive soon anyways to get rid of the bowden tube altogether. I've heard of kipper but it sounds really confusing coming from a GRBL background...
Great! It's honestly much better code than I expected. The only hard part was figuring out how to consistently identify the encoder pin out, and once I got that, it was easy to repeat. I'll try to get that video made soon!
@adamamott6637 thanks so much! There's not much info on 3D printers with DC motors out there yet as far as I know
Edit: no hurry with the video, I've still got a backlog of stepper motor projects to work through
@@ChronicMechatronic As far as Klipper goes, it was easier than I thought it would be. I switched a few weeks ago for a custom printer and ended up installing it everywhere because it was so easy. I have an Arduino Mega controller and it still moves at 900mm/s! I'll add my favorite tutorial in case you want to mess around. It runs great on any ancient laptop, don't need a Pi.
You're right, basically no info is available on DC motors for printers. I've only seen one, from the guy who wrote the code and used it on the X axis. But it makes the Arduino act like an A4988, so t's basically a drop-in replacement! I just need to make the video before I get distracted 😆
Ended up here by random YT recommendation. But anyway watching, albeit bit skipping parts here and there. It's refreshing to see peole do these "back to the origins" stuff thats about as much diy as it can be, instead of millionth Voron build etc. GJ.
Yeah, all those identical 3D printers really bore me to death as well... There's something to be said about the evolution of a design reaching conclusion, and IMO 3D printers in general have done just that. There's nothing to add, the reason printers these days are designed the way they are, is because it's the simplest, cheapest, and most functional way to go about it.
I see people really enjoy this series because of the "back to the origins" approach, which is funny because I just really didn't know what I was doing when I designed this machine. Even my next printer will be much more similar to the standard ender/prusa design albeit out of more trash.
@@ChronicMechatronic I mostly mean "back to the origins" just commonly the so-t-say RepRap movement, which included figuring things out and assembling pretty much everything yourself. I don't think most knew what they were doing in the beginning :)
Didnt skip, why would i ? Great Vid, i want to see more of your recycling process too..
Thanks :)
That's great, because I want to lean more into recycling, with 3D printing I plan on adding plastic recycling to the mix! I also did a video some time ago about my electronic component recovery process
Omg this is one of the best videos ever :D you are truly talented bro, it's just amazing 🙌
4:00 Barrel jacks are the worst for polarity reversal because there's no color coding, and some power supplies are positive inside and some negative inside, and you never know which one a device wants unless it's labeled or you follow the PCB traces to something of known polarity.
Good point, tho so far I've never come across one that was negative inside
@@ChronicMechatronic I've run across exactly ONE in the decades that I've been tinkering so it's possible. That taught me to always check, even if it's highly improbable.
@@quinbee_creates cheapass dollarstore type products I imagine? Like you can get USB cables with incorrectly color coded strands from China because they can't be bothered to stick to conventions? Either way I always check my power supplies because they were in the ewaste bin and don't always work - sadly 😢
@@ChronicMechatronic Nah, this was years before dollar stores proliferated. Might have just been the manufacturer attempting to keep people locked into using their components.
Hi Ben! Greaat post! I watched it on my tiny phone screen. I'm going to appreciate it on a way larger screen. Really amazing and instructive part of your achievement. Can't wait the next post.🎉🎉🎉
Thanks! Yeah, in terms of editing my videos are definitely designed for bigger screens, only the camera quality isn't quite there just yet 😆
I know you know this, but those BYJ motors are easy enough to pop the plastic shrouds off of and short the trace on the pcb that makes them unipolar. Just scrape out the trace with a razor blade and boom you can run them off the a4988.
Instead of buying a hot plate I actually bought a hair straightener with a wide base. It can go up to 230 degrees Celsius which is slightly above the melting point of my solder paste. The whole setup works really well
When I started using tin silver solder I got a sixty watt controlled temp station it lasted ten years it would have lasted a lifetime with lead tin solder but it did work well until it broke
You can try connecting old 220V soldering iron to the bridge rectifier with some capacitors (4.7 - 20 uF) . It will boost up the voltage and it might get hot enough to melt lead-free solder. Other thing I've noticed is that not all lead-free solders are equal. Some roll of chinese noname lead-free solder didn't really want to melt, but plumbing tin-antimony alloy (95-5) solder melted much nicer, despite being bigger diameter.
Genius hack! Yeah, I might need to experiment, maybe that roll happens to be an especially bad one
I feel like we would be friends. These are the main type of projects I work on as well with a lot of salvaged components
Ikr? I feel like working with salvaged stuff is soo much more rewarding than assembling a few off-the-stuff components!
Amazing work!
Wonderful! 19:19 how are those wooden washers made?
Yeah I'm skipping some steps...
Little squares of plywood with a hole stacked on a screw and tightened with a nut. Stick screw in cordless drill and touch the spinning thing against the running belt sander until they're round and the right size. Pretty much the exact same way I made those custom metal washers in episode 4
ruclips.net/video/tF-yNkTIu4g/видео.html (timecode link)
If I had a laser cutter I would've cut them on there including the cardboard ones for the hotbed, but that's the next project 😅
Buy an 80W temperature regulated soldering iron. They only cost $10-15 and can solder tiny stuff and big fat wires since power is only delivered as needed.
Yea I figured there must be more to those ridiculously tiny pen-like soldering irons than I gave them credit for...
Wow, how and where did you learn all this stuff about electronics? I'm very impressed and also want to learn that much.
In the grand scheme of things I'm actually still just a beginner in electronics. Never really got into the AC side of things, let alone HF... It's mostly just acquaintance with ohms law and basic analog circuitry that shapes up to this after years of practical experience. There are actually only a few very basic ways of combining components to achieve something in circuit design and after a while you start recognizing these patterns and being able to apply them yourself :)
Depending on how familiar you already are with electronics, I recommend watching a few electronics 101 courses or similar here in RUclips to get comfortable with how electricity works, then grab a breadboard, a multimeter and a few components and start building circuits! All the theoretical knowledge in the world is no match to getting some hands on experience and actually seeing measurable currents/voltages affirm your earlier calculations. It really helps with getting a hang of it. There are dozens of sites/channels featuring simple circuits to replicate, like timers, dimmer switches, flashers, dusk sensors and other fun mini projects. This is pretty much what I did for years. There is a channel called @BBCircuitsbySteveMorrison that I did a sort of collab developing a circuit with a while back - he unfortunately seems to have stopped uploading but has a couple of good explainer videos and examples circuits on his channel already. An OG channel I've been watching for years that I can really recommend is @bigclivedotcom. Lots of second hand practical experience to gain even though it tends to get slightly repetitive at times.
So yeah, I hope this helps a bit, best of luck in your journey!
@@ChronicMechatronic Thanks, I'll try it)
really nice work as always :D
What device do you use to film your videos?
Redmi note 10 pro. It's quite good but at some point I could definitely do with a real camera, hopefully sponsors will take care of that 😆
I got sent a wireless mic which I'll use the video after the next one, I really hope that solves my audio clipping issues. My voice is just too loud for the mic I'm using rn 😂
About leaded solder wire you have to look at big electronict components distributors like Digikey, Mouser or TME. Dont know where You are from but looking at power plugs i deduct somewhere in Europe so I will recomend TME. But yeah leaded solder wire aint cheap nowdays.
Great work with that printer. Little tpis for wooden frame- try to keep it dry/ constant humidity. Wood will warp and all alignment will be gone (alk me how I now :) )
Edit :
Looked at TME and you can get 0,25kg Sn60Pb40 wire for ~15$
Wow thanks! Yes I'm in France I'll check out TME!
Next you should try is making your own BTT skr board
Good idea, I definitely want to move to an STM32 MCU for the next printer
That's actually a really great suggestion, thanks, I just checked out the SKR mini E3 and the fact that the schematic is public would allow me to base my own board off of it without having to mess with the software 🤔😅
@@ChronicMechatronic That would be amazing if you can pull it off. Though a bit complex but definitely doable.
Yeah this shield was by far the most complex design I've done to date, had I not just copied Ramps I'd definitely have made some fatal mistake 😂
The SKR mini looks pretty similar overall, it mostly just has a few DC/DC regulators and other support components added
Now that caliberation of the printer is remaining, Please keep a hand on the power switch or switches as you and the printer do not know where it's going to go and what are the limits! I have a lot of experience of crashing gantries and skipping stepper motors in the middle of the night!
OMG I totally forgot that, even though I preached it myself in the pen plotter series 😂
I'm already through that most dangerous initial phase of calibration and it went smoother than I ever imagined!
Why make shield if I can dedicate whole mcu in board
Yeah it would definitely have been better to build a real motherboard from scratch
Hey can u provide a solution to display and microcontroller in a single board integrated into a pcb ??
for other projects...
Isn't there tons of those out there already? Like this one: ESP32 Arduino 240*320 Smart Display Screen 2.8inch LCD TFT
a.aliexpress.com/_EIC0u6n
What! Why not just use 400 or 500 Watt PC atx and bug boost and regulators to get all volts from one supply!!
ATX voltages were too low for the heated bed, I explained it all in here: ruclips.net/video/MpD2EWrJkOY/видео.html
@@ChronicMechatronic I have seen you used 19.5 V laptop adapter it might give you around 100 Watt,
So even if you use boost converter removing 100 watt + 30watt ( supposing 80% efficiently) ≈ 130, ≈ 370 Watt Still left, removing 30 Watt per stepper motor - 30 efficiency = 120 Watt so 250 Watt Still left so on
Is it not enough!!!??
If not why not use direct Ac regulated by Dimmer controller!
I am wondering.
Amazing 🎉
hehe. reminds me of my own first 3d printer build back in 2011
I like the blabber!
Thanks 🤗
you should use it to print a voron! 😆
Not sure about a voron, but it'll definitely print its successor! 😅
Make a mini SLA printer like Lite3DP Gen2.
oh, and just occurred to me. Maybe you can run klipper using a cheaper micro. you could use a linux installation in a computer so you dont need an sbc!
I'll actually use an old laptop with Linux installed as a host and UI!
nice! you should take a look at klipper than. it uses the host to a much greater extent. The mcu only takes care of sensors and stepping, so you could use something cheaper and better like an st micro or an rp2040
Supporting you from Pakistan
why didn't you switch to one oversized 24V power suply or 24+19v on oryginal ramps design? also it probably be cheaper to ...get 10$ ramps knokof board and just remove the power sockets and solder power wires directly, (because the green terminals on knokof boards are coper coated steel and can burn under load , ask me how i know)
so if you can integrate power wires directly or at least check with magnet if yout barrel jack sockets are copper or copper coated steel, because it makes a dirrerence you can't see at first
alsoo just use longer header pins
I don't have an oversized 24 volt power supply. Yeah I figured those cheap Chinese screw terminals would have a lot of resistance, I was glad the ones I salvaged were high quality european made. I'm pretty sure most barrel jacks are copper coated steel, but since I'm running those individuals circuits on rather low amperages I wasn't really worried.
@@ChronicMechatronic i run my resistive wire homemade bed heater from 12 V so in my case the connectors kind of melted
but i am more interested why you run heater from 19V it basically loses 1/5 of power compared to runing it from 24V and i doubt higher voltage would hurt it, but it would heat up faster and self balance better if the bed doesn't have enough thermal mass..
one thing to note is that your setup is potentially more stable for accurate prints like this, in my case bed pull down the voltage rail steppers runs at and that makes them have less umft, not much less but the same can be said about the hot end and some layers simply lookless shiny or ger under/overextruded ... but it is a 3d printer made of drawer bearings and 3d printed parts so that might be irrelevant
@kokodin5895 I only used 19.5v because that's what the laptop power brick I found in an ewaste collection bin delivers. I actually really like this approach, AC adapters for consumer electronics get thrown out by the hundreds, and more often than not they still work. Laptop power bricks being the biggest amongst them, the 120W one I used may have been barely enough for my large size bed but for a standard 200x200mm it would be plenty. Noise isolation is indeed an advantage, since my hotend and fans are on one 12v rail I can hear the fans slowing down when the heater kicks in.
I may have gone a little over the top with 5 separate supplies, but a third more powerful one to power all the motors wouldn't be as crazy as it seems. The big 12/24V power supplies used in most 3D printers also have a separate 5V supply inside to power the electronics...
Actually they don`t. They either put out 12 or 24V. The controller boards have step down regulators for the 5v logic. The ramps uses 5v from the Arduino Mega, but all other modern boards have own 5V stage.@@ChronicMechatronic
Ah OK, thanks!
you're so cool!!
Didn't get a notification 🤔 welp I'm here now anyway
Damn, RUclips 😒
Bro iam from India iam also making a 3Dpr your is useful for me
Your anti reverse polarity diodes are crazy as if you actually have a reversed polarity, you shorten the power supply...
That's normal, it's the exact same in the original Ramps. By shorting out the power supply it clamps the voltage and protacts the electronics. So long as you don't use a crazy powerful supply or even a traditional transformer based one it's fine because almost all switch mode power supplies shut down if they're overloaded and for a brief second these diodes can endure a multiple of their constant current rating.
Please get yourself a better soldering iron, it will make your life so much easier. For example T12 soldering irons from China just cost around 35€ and I can promise you that you will never want to go back to your old one. And soldering with lead free solder is also no problem with T12 tips
I got a 908s ordered 😅 It may not have active temperature control but I can see if it works better for the time being, because when I get a real soldering station I want it to include a hot air gun
another name could be the pooron switchwire
???
@@ChronicMechatronic voron switchwire, a DIY printer that is possibly one of the most expensive bed slingers one could build. they are quite well known in the community but given you built from the ground up with no prior experience I guess you haven't come across it.
@Altirix_ oooh haha I see! Yeah I've never really been interested in 3D printing so all I know is basically Ender 3 and Prusa. Got a lot to catch up with 😂
5$ pcb way
25$ shipping
20$ for rest of the printer
Aarrgh stop nitpicking 😂
Had I spent 100 hours more to etch the PCB myself people would've commented I should just buy the boards.
Y'all know I have to accommodate sponsors to help pay for at least a fraction of the insane amount of time I spend making these videos 😂
@@ChronicMechatronic I get it brother I just find it funny, you did a great job managing the cost unlike 100$ CNC build where owner already had 600$ worth of stuff lying around. now im not sure how cost effective this is but I often salvage perfectly working nema 17 and nema 14 stepper motors off old inkjet, inktank and those bill printers that I get for free (I remove the motors and return the rest to the scrapyard/e-waste management) and most of these printers already have a working linear actuator inside that is used to drive the print head around in printers with comes with rather good quality linear rods and belts, why am I saving this? maybe if you manage to salvage this you could manage to build the frame out of wood (I did this back in 2016 when the technology was rather new but for z axis i salvaged 4 cm linear actuator with stepper motor from dvd/CD readers used in computers each one from e waste was 0.3$)
@@xecarfa9755 haha I know my math is shoddy, I also used like $5 of plywood I had laying around, I think there may be a lower end limit to how cheap a 3D printer can be built without sacrificing functionality entirely like the easythreed... Barring some very special circumstances like getting to salvage a functional motherboard off another broken 3D printer it might actually be impossible to truly make one for just $50.
I am learning a lot on this project, including why sometimes using more expensive parts is actually desirable.
I've never seen NEMA type stepper motors in printers and such, only ever one 200step/revolution stepper in a Canon flatbed scanner. I also collect all those parts, my next 3D printer will likely use linear rods from inkjet printers and scrap metal tubing for the frame.
@@xecarfa9755 I'm pretty sure the "$100" CNC you're talking about was the one by Hyperspace Pirate?
@@ChronicMechatronic I got nema 17's all from old bill printers (i verified by mounting holes) I've about 8 of those all salvaged and one wasn't working when I checked the mounting holes it was off by few mm's when I dug deep it turned out to be 7.2° stepper motor (around 7.2 not exactly sure) with all the modernization and fast production i mostly found servo type motors in new printers (I had found a cannon inkjet printer 2022 model god knows why it ended up in e waste so fast) which use a optical film to track the motor kind of like a servo, those i found to be extremely hard to use other than that all the ones I've salvaged were quite good though I must say getting the pressed gear tooth off them was quite the pain
en wikipedia org/wiki/Solder#Lead-free
seems like there are better lead free solders that aren''t just tin
Bro iam from India iam also making a 3Dpr your is useful for me