Tommy Grønvold , Was thinking the same thing in the early 1990s because all measurements I had for driver spec.s at the time from my sources here in the US used inches, feet, etc. Wasn't long before programs were written for the ol' Texas Instruments TI-8x graphing calc.s for executing conversions at any given stage of modeling coupled with some capacity for basic Thiele-Small parameter work - early shareware. After that, the early internet had a couple fellas sharing their spreadsheets / (browser-operated? ) programs somehow for doing all the previous as well as additional calc.s for various box shapes along with results for port length(s) , overlaying/comparing response curves for different drivers or a given driver's option within a number of different config.s while affording push-pull, isobaric, 4th order and 6th order bandpass boxes when they were popular not to mention an included sinewave generator will settings for a sweep within a given range. The advancement of calculating and unit conversion tech has been wondrous. But, when at the end of the day the lumber is sold in units of inches and feet... it really is much ado about nothing for indigneous.
6 лет назад+1
WOW!! Doing imperial calculations on a Texas Instruments calculator, that sounds like double the work for double the trouble... ;-D I worked with surveying in the late 90's, some of my colleagues used TI's to do advanced calculations. The method to crunch numbers with those was a nightmare to watch, backwards and special functions all over...
I support you Homes. Even though I can’t afford to Patreon right now your supporters still help you out as much as we can. You’re a staple of the community more than crutchfield
Your work is amazing. The attention to detail is crazy good. I plan for my builds as well but nothing like you execute. Thanks for taking the time and effort to show others! This is just the sub box....WOW!
Way back in the day I was thinking of doing this, but ironically I got a flat tire...having just started a family and only 1 car, I decided to actually keep the spare, and build around it. Built a hinged box with hinged lid that was flush with the floor, but also 35* in the front since the rear seats were angled. Sealed up the bottom and sides, but cut hole in bottom of box to allow magnet to fit in tire well. Hit 120 dB and Q factor was on point! This is by far so much more awesome tho👍 Thank u for making this amazing video sir!
I have a 99 CR-V and the spare is on the tailgate with a empty spare tire well, this is exactly what i thought about doing. Watching this gave me the extra push i need to get ahead and start it.
I love your channel. I'm a lifelong HiFi nut, car nut, love DIY and workshops and am a physicist - you have great, quality solutions. I love watching your thought processes and seeing your experience. Wish I lived nearby! :-) All the best, Rob in Switzerland
The baffle is larger because 1) it will help with the sound 2) it's aesthetically more pleasing and looks like it was meant to be that way 3) stops small junk falling into the cavity between enclosure and wheel well. All the best, Rob
Thanks! There are many people around that still take a ton of pride in doing things right, but don't expect them to be "cheap". As you can imagine doing things right takes time, and time is money.
Love watching this method. I have only used the fiberglass approach for spare tire enclosures. The math part always intimidated me but you made it very easy to understand. As always, thanks. Btw I will be contacting you again soon for another one of those awesome enclosure designs.
More people should watch and follow these ideas. He shows how cylinder volumes are easy to calculate. The laminated ring construction method is an easy way to to fit an enclosure of a known volume in any odd shaped space too. Wish I could give C. A. F. 2 thumbs up! 👍👍
Focal rocks! My mains run a pair of Focal 7k415's along with a pair of TD90K tweeters. They give awesome response from 45 to 22kHz. When coupled to my subwoofer I get a system response of 23hz to 22kHz at -3db. The roll off of the sub is pretty flat with a system Q of .81. That gives me 20Hz and below at an audible level. The system is awesome, great imagining with all the data coming through the system. Nothing is lost lie some speakers which have muddy bass response that colors the sound.
Thanks for these vids mark u sure got talent man im planing on doin this in our grand cherokee for a steath box its get to learn how to measure circle sub box volume Thank you again
This is what I need for my 18' Mazda3 hatchback with one change. I want to keep my spare tire. I went to a local shop and was told they could do make the sub box but it might now sound good.
Great job! I love your videos Mark! My take on the oversized top plate is to completely cover the wheel well so nothing will fall in between the outside of the sub box and the wheel well walls (say that three times fast).
As far back as I can remember Focal has been a great quality name. The math for the money is well worth it in the build. Great build and video. I’ve seen a build where someone used a spare wheel as an enclosure for a 15 in a Volkswagen bug. Not sure if it was built to spec, but it looked cool at the time.
3:03 My math game is pretty strong (when it comes to this level) but thanks for explaining this to folks Mark, because 5 out of 3 people do have problems with math. My guess on the oversized baffle is in conjunction with the beauty panel to protect the subs and also maintain some usability of the trunk for cargo/groceries after the install. Looks awesome Mark!
Lol, that math... :) and you are close. I'll reveal more specifically why soon, I want to see what other people have to say. Thanks for being a Patreon member!
i'm also curious to see what others think about your design choice and eventually it's actual purpose. Glad to be a CAF patron, at least you give your folks some early/extra content to enjoy besides their name written on a wall #DDFAFO LOL!
Man oh man. You teach us so much. Thank you. I still dream of having you do an install for me. I mean I do it myself now but you’re on a completely different planet. Ahh a man can dream. Lol. Good work as always!
Great video Mark. I think you may have made the final baffle oversize to bolt the enclosure securely to the floor of the car. If I make an irregular shaped enclosure I use sand to measure the volume. I have a plastic measuring jug that I use to pour the sand. Keep up the great work. Best regards Rob
Great vid. Love the channel. I noticed the math doesn’t match the build so I think this is a good opportunity for you to discuss different design considerations/ compromises when doing a build. The math calls for 4 small and 8 large rings; as built you have 4 large, 3 small, and 1 small small. This really undersized the volume. Maybe only one sub would have worked better... or a different sub? I just noticed the discrepancy so I’m wondering what your thoughts on it are.
Thank Great video. Is fiber glassing dead for you. Because I see you stacking more often or is stacking a better option whenever possible. I also saw the video of your earlier build the Green Monster would you stack that as well if you were doing it today
Awesome job like always man but wouldn’t you have saved more material if you’d cut half circles instead of full circles? It would make for a more efficient cut-out pattern in the mdf sheet and then all you would have to do is stagger each layer so that the half circle joints would be perpendicular to each other and maybe use some staples or finishing nails along with the glue just for reinforcement?
Great to see you back on the project train!! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I'm actually planning a full install for myself at the moment, so I've been going through all your educational videos to choose the equipment and design the system. I want to hide the amp and LOC in the spare wheel well, but keep the spare wheel - aiming for a hinged flip-up amp mount like you did previously. Exciting times ahead! Keep the great content coming!
Very nice work! My guess is to suspend the cavity from the baffle since the round portion is not the same exact shape as the spare tire well and to keep it from rattling against the sides and bottom.
Very useful and addictive video. i actually watch this a few times already. Is it a good idea to use just one MDF as a top mount over the spare tyre well (and no need any body / sidewall). If I can find a way to secure it, then I got a much larger air volume box.
Hi Mark. Just wondering what your thoughts are on the use of fiberglass. I have done a similar project to this one using a flat circle base piece, a mid ring and a top ring. Held it all together with MDF upright joiners and then glassed it all in outside the vehicle after covering the rings in a stiff cardboard to get the wheel well shape. I finished it all off both inside and out to be smooth then added my top panel with countersunk speakers. I find that fiberglass gives a lighter enclosure but still really strong.
I assume that you made the head or top larger as to compensate for the space or drop that exists after placing the ring so in short if I am correct u just table topped the enclosure so there was a space between the bevel of the spare tire drop and the upright of the enclosure
Why did you make the top panel larger than rest of the enclosure? Some extra room to mount amplifiers or wire terminals perhaps. But, also you don't want to floor / carpet to sag in the void you cause by removing the factory panel you initially copied.
Now I know we're working within the restraints if the spare tire enclosure, so you can only use so much area, but wouldn't either hand blending those MDF rings on the inside be better to gain a few more cc's of enclosure volume be beneficial, or, just making the top baffle out of MDF and actually laying the enclosure out of fiberglass be better to make the absolute most of the area given....or is it not true that a larger enclosure will be able to play deeper?
Awesome video as usual Mark! Would a fiberglass bottom work just as well as the wood in this application? I figured you could roughly find the volume by filling the area with water, pumping it out with a shop vac, then weighing it. In this application, all the fiberglass would be curved and touching a solid surface which would minimize flex. Make a sufficient lip to glue the wood top to and voila you've saved yourself a little weight and wood. I think my idea here is pretty sound, no? (no pun intended XD)
seems like this would have been a good opportunity to do this the way you said you would do a box differently, in that one video recently where you talked about an old build and how you would have done it differently
When you did the math your equation was for 1.3 cu ft³ was that the required space for one sub or both. I'm planning a dual sub hidden spare install and was curious if using 2 subs like you did would require twice the area space inside the enclosure?
I’m just going to guess and say the larger piece is to one help with fighting vibration as well as stabilizing the enclosure itself,, and it will also prevent anything from falling into the wheel well and shaking along the side of the enclosure itself, the factory stock barely covers the well, or possibly making it larger to make it easier to attach a beauty panel to It??
I don't use Twitter and all those things, any chance you have a plan for a 14 ram box, one side, passenger, for a 12" shallow sub? Great videos as well!
Why build a complex enclosure (and use up precious space) when you can simply install the sound deadener and use a baffle/front panel across the top of the well? This gives you a sealed enclosure in and of itself? This is what I did in my '95 Mustang, and it worked out very well.
Golf with Fender Audio has the subwoofer tucked in the center of the spare tire well With the tire in it. It sounds fantastic, but isn't much larger than a half cantaloupe.
Mark, I really struggle with math; always have. I sure wish I could have you or someone else figure my needed box volume for a P2 Rockford Fosgate 10" sub woofer if I give my dimensions.
The larger baffle allows you to remove the subwoofer when you want to, and positively locates in the trunk without allowing it to move around and possibly causing a buzzing around where it isn't wanted. Am I close?
Hi I'm doing my first sub install into my car and I calculated that I need a power cable that is at least 16 mm². At my local audio shop they have 20 mm² and 35 mm² wiring kits. Is it good to take the 20 mm² or should I take the 35 mm² just to be safe? Any problems with having too large cable?
Mark, diggin’ the build. Watched all the videos for project stealth and honestly would like to hire you to customize my impala. I have… (3) 10w6v1 Precision Power PCX-2400 Precision Power PCX-480 Precision Power PAR-225 I want my trunk pounding clean n clear of rattling and outside noise just like your Pontiac. Please let me know if you’re available for “Project Impala” Sorry for the public message, I don’t know how to direct message on RUclips.
Well done. BUt you could have just installed a single twelve inch, higher power, and use rockwool or foam bedsheet insulation. The two tens are about as loud as a single twelve, but with more mid range. The soft foam fabric will allow deeper bass.
Boot floor is likely flat where the base of the spare may not be, adding an extra large baffle means the enclosure has a flat reference point rather than siting the enclosure on the bottom of the spare wheel well and trying to match the rest of the panels with that after...
Hey quick question for you, I dont quite have enough room in my trunk to add the speakers I would like to and meet the box volume requirements, would using a shape like this distort the sound in any way if I added a larger rectangular piece to the top to increase my volume?
Any need for internal bracing in a setup like that Mark? Not getting crazy with power or a ton of cone area may not necessitate it, just asking the question.
After watching you do the maths with the imperial system, I really really love the metric system!
Tommy Grønvold I was about to say that.
Tommy Grønvold ,
Was thinking the same thing in the early 1990s because all measurements I had for driver spec.s at the time from my sources here in the US used inches, feet, etc. Wasn't long before programs were written for the ol' Texas Instruments TI-8x graphing calc.s for executing conversions at any given stage of modeling coupled with some capacity for basic Thiele-Small parameter work - early shareware. After that, the early internet had a couple fellas sharing their spreadsheets / (browser-operated? ) programs somehow for doing all the previous as well as additional calc.s for various box shapes along with results for port length(s) , overlaying/comparing response curves for different drivers or a given driver's option within a number of different config.s while affording push-pull, isobaric, 4th order and 6th order bandpass boxes when they were popular not to mention an included sinewave generator will settings for a sweep within a given range. The advancement of calculating and unit conversion tech has been wondrous. But, when at the end of the day the lumber is sold in units of inches and feet... it really is much ado about nothing for indigneous.
WOW!! Doing imperial calculations on a Texas Instruments calculator, that sounds like double the work for double the trouble... ;-D
I worked with surveying in the late 90's, some of my colleagues used TI's to do advanced calculations. The method to crunch numbers with those was a nightmare to watch, backwards and special functions all over...
I saw your comment after I wrote mine. Gotta love the metric system :)
Many subs in the US have the specs for Vas in cubic inches. SO...
I support you Homes. Even though I can’t afford to Patreon right now your supporters still help you out as much as we can. You’re a staple of the community more than crutchfield
Flexing that engineer mind in this one! This was a lot of fun to watch.
😎😎😎 And this one isn't even that complicated, remember the Jeep box? 🤤🤤🤤 Watch it here: ruclips.net/video/Ol-H0EBEO5c/видео.html
Your work is amazing. The attention to detail is crazy good. I plan for my builds as well but nothing like you execute. Thanks for taking the time and effort to show others! This is just the sub box....WOW!
Thanks for watching! It's guys like you that appreciate what I am trying to show that are the reason do this! Thank you!
Way back in the day I was thinking of doing this, but ironically I got a flat tire...having just started a family and only 1 car, I decided to actually keep the spare, and build around it. Built a hinged box with hinged lid that was flush with the floor, but also 35* in the front since the rear seats were angled. Sealed up the bottom and sides, but cut hole in bottom of box to allow magnet to fit in tire well.
Hit 120 dB and Q factor was on point!
This is by far so much more awesome tho👍
Thank u for making this amazing video sir!
I have a 99 CR-V and the spare is on the tailgate with a empty spare tire well, this is exactly what i thought about doing. Watching this gave me the extra push i need to get ahead and start it.
I love your channel. I'm a lifelong HiFi nut, car nut, love DIY and workshops and am a physicist - you have great, quality solutions. I love watching your thought processes and seeing your experience. Wish I lived nearby! :-) All the best, Rob in Switzerland
The baffle is larger because 1) it will help with the sound 2) it's aesthetically more pleasing and looks like it was meant to be that way 3) stops small junk falling into the cavity between enclosure and wheel well. All the best, Rob
Thank you mark for showing us how the spare tire sub woofer enclosure is done.
I would totally pay this guy to wire my car for audio. His work is so cleaned . One of the best on RUclips when it comes to car audio.
Thanks! There are many people around that still take a ton of pride in doing things right, but don't expect them to be "cheap". As you can imagine doing things right takes time, and time is money.
Love watching this method. I have only used the fiberglass approach for spare tire enclosures. The math part always intimidated me but you made it very easy to understand. As always, thanks. Btw I will be contacting you again soon for another one of those awesome enclosure designs.
You are so right. I always just 'winged' the volume 😄 But last time, I just got one Marks finished box designs 👌🏼
More people should watch and follow these ideas. He shows how cylinder volumes are easy to calculate. The laminated ring construction method is an easy way to to fit an enclosure of a known volume in any odd shaped space too. Wish I could give C. A. F. 2 thumbs up! 👍👍
Focal for the win. Have a kx33 in my Jeep and love the quality and sound it offers.
Focal rocks! My mains run a pair of Focal 7k415's along with a pair of TD90K tweeters. They give awesome response from 45 to 22kHz. When coupled to my subwoofer I get a system response of 23hz to 22kHz at -3db. The roll off of the sub is pretty flat with a system Q of .81. That gives me 20Hz and below at an audible level. The system is awesome, great imagining with all the data coming through the system. Nothing is lost lie some speakers which have muddy bass response that colors the sound.
Thanks for these vids mark u sure got talent man im planing on doin this in our grand cherokee for a steath box its get to learn how to measure circle sub box volume
Thank you again
Can I buy this man a beer for being a god among audiophiles?
In a way! (very few people do this, maybe one or two a year) www.caraudiofabrication.com/support
Awesome video. Surprised this channel hasn't blown up. Production value and quality is astonishing !
Fantastic! I'm looking forward to using this technique to put subwoofers in my rear deck lid.
Love the videos!
This is what I need for my 18' Mazda3 hatchback with one change. I want to keep my spare tire. I went to a local shop and was told they could do make the sub box but it might now sound good.
Thank you for showing this!! So happy to see this all come together!!
Great job! I love your videos Mark! My take on the oversized top plate is to completely cover the wheel well so nothing will fall in between the outside of the sub box and the wheel well walls (say that three times fast).
As far back as I can remember Focal has been a great quality name. The math for the money is well worth it in the build. Great build and video.
I’ve seen a build where someone used a spare wheel as an enclosure for a 15 in a Volkswagen bug. Not sure if it was built to spec, but it looked cool at the time.
Amazing! Your thought process, work ethic and presentation skills are amazing.
3:03 My math game is pretty strong (when it comes to this level) but thanks for explaining this to folks Mark, because 5 out of 3 people do have problems with math.
My guess on the oversized baffle is in conjunction with the beauty panel to protect the subs and also maintain some usability of the trunk for cargo/groceries after the install.
Looks awesome Mark!
Lol, that math... :) and you are close. I'll reveal more specifically why soon, I want to see what other people have to say. Thanks for being a Patreon member!
i'm also curious to see what others think about your design choice and eventually it's actual purpose. Glad to be a CAF patron, at least you give your folks some early/extra content to enjoy besides their name written on a wall #DDFAFO LOL!
5 of 3, huh? I think those mathematically challenged people own a bank.
? not catching the reference there Jay.
JayinMI his math so strong he's excluding himself
Man oh man. You teach us so much. Thank you. I still dream of having you do an install for me. I mean I do it myself now but you’re on a completely different planet. Ahh a man can dream. Lol. Good work as always!
Great video Mark. I think you may have made the final baffle oversize to bolt the enclosure securely to the floor of the car. If I make an irregular shaped enclosure I use sand to measure the volume. I have a plastic measuring jug that I use to pour the sand. Keep up the great work. Best regards
Rob
Great video . Waiting for next part with complete build and sound test.
Always a great video, i need this for my BMW 750i 2018 model
A thing of beauty. Nicely done.
Your math skill is sick bro
Great vid. Love the channel. I noticed the math doesn’t match the build so I think this is a good opportunity for you to discuss different design considerations/ compromises when doing a build.
The math calls for 4 small and 8 large rings; as built you have 4 large, 3 small, and 1 small small.
This really undersized the volume. Maybe only one sub would have worked better... or a different sub?
I just noticed the discrepancy so I’m wondering what your thoughts on it are.
The math I showed was just an example using random values, it wasn't what I actually ended up targeting.
Wow Mark, looks great! Excited to see the end result on this one :)
Great video, Mark! Looking forward to seeing the end results on this one. :)
Thank Great video. Is fiber glassing dead for you. Because I see you stacking more often or is stacking a better option whenever possible. I also saw the video of your earlier build the Green Monster would you stack that as well if you were doing it today
Been waiting for this video for 3 years 🤗🤗🤗
Just a quick question. I really like your videos and I've been wondering what your day job is.
Wow! I need this for a 2019 Mustang!!!
Awesome job like always man but wouldn’t you have saved more material if you’d cut half circles instead of full circles? It would make for a more efficient cut-out pattern in the mdf sheet and then all you would have to do is stagger each layer so that the half circle joints would be perpendicular to each other and maybe use some staples or finishing nails along with the glue just for reinforcement?
Ive been waiting to see a build like this. Ive seen some hack jobs but this is serious level business. Awesome work man, cant wait to see the rest.
Great to see you back on the project train!! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I'm actually planning a full install for myself at the moment, so I've been going through all your educational videos to choose the equipment and design the system. I want to hide the amp and LOC in the spare wheel well, but keep the spare wheel - aiming for a hinged flip-up amp mount like you did previously. Exciting times ahead! Keep the great content coming!
that would an awesome spot for fiberglass work
Very insightful as always. Thanks Mark i have learned alot from your videos.
Been awhile since installing but i enjoy your videos.
There ya go. I've seen a few of those builds using acrilic and vinyl with led back lighting. Waiting on the outcome of this one
Sweet! Can’t wait to see it finished.
Best build so far nice luv it
That math brought back some memories 😂 but I love your videos man! I'm starting to build a sub box for my Miata.... Wish me luck! 😊
Very nice work! My guess is to suspend the cavity from the baffle since the round portion is not the same exact shape as the spare tire well and to keep it from rattling against the sides and bottom.
Always a great video and detailed explanations. All others take notes.
Good approach. I'm interested. I will subscribe. But although in English I don't understand :) - Everything is clear without words :)
That's was a awesome video. I've made my first subwoofer box in the same location. After a lot of in and out of the box it finally sounds great
Very useful and addictive video. i actually watch this a few times already. Is it a good idea to use just one MDF as a top mount over the spare tyre well (and no need any body / sidewall). If I can find a way to secure it, then I got a much larger air volume box.
Excellent work👌👌
Great work man
great.And i love the style of your videos.
great explanations.
verry easy to understand you, and that for a german guy.
thanks a lot
thumbs up
Hi Mark.
Just wondering what your thoughts are on the use of fiberglass.
I have done a similar project to this one using a flat circle base piece, a mid ring and a top ring.
Held it all together with MDF upright joiners and then glassed it all in outside the vehicle after covering the rings in a stiff cardboard to get the wheel well shape.
I finished it all off both inside and out to be smooth then added my top panel with countersunk speakers.
I find that fiberglass gives a lighter enclosure but still really strong.
Appreciate the tips and tricks.
I assume that you made the head or top larger as to compensate for the space or drop that exists after placing the ring so in short if I am correct u just table topped the enclosure so there was a space between the bevel of the spare tire drop and the upright of the enclosure
thanks for yet another build very informative as always
It’s beautiful.
Like from Russia!👍
From Russia With Like 😅
BangDroid 🤣👍
From Puerto Rico to Russia 🇷🇺 Saludos amigo!!!
Why did you make the top panel larger than rest of the enclosure? Some extra room to mount amplifiers or wire terminals perhaps. But, also you don't want to floor / carpet to sag in the void you cause by removing the factory panel you initially copied.
Your work is amazing .
What is better a stacked sub enclosure or fiberglass, which of the two are more affordable to build and sound Q?
Dam dude u got some skills.....
Dude has some tools
Now I know we're working within the restraints if the spare tire enclosure, so you can only use so much area, but wouldn't either hand blending those MDF rings on the inside be better to gain a few more cc's of enclosure volume be beneficial, or, just making the top baffle out of MDF and actually laying the enclosure out of fiberglass be better to make the absolute most of the area given....or is it not true that a larger enclosure will be able to play deeper?
Great video!!
Are there any disadvantages of the round design compared to the regular box style?
Awesome video as usual Mark! Would a fiberglass bottom work just as well as the wood in this application? I figured you could roughly find the volume by filling the area with water, pumping it out with a shop vac, then weighing it. In this application, all the fiberglass would be curved and touching a solid surface which would minimize flex. Make a sufficient lip to glue the wood top to and voila you've saved yourself a little weight and wood. I think my idea here is pretty sound, no? (no pun intended XD)
i think its to lift yp the box from the bottom of the spare tire well to prevent any unexpected rattle and it will fit the trunk carpet
seems like this would have been a good opportunity to do this the way you said you would do a box differently, in that one video recently where you talked about an old build and how you would have done it differently
Hey Mark nice vid! Greeting from car audio fan from the Netherlands. Why did you make the sub inclosure not from pvc? I’m curious.
Looks awesome man! Nice video!!
If I do something like utilizing the spare tire area. How would I add a port? And would it sound good?
I can't wait to see the next video great job on that spare tire box oh and your videos are awesome lol
When you did the math your equation was for 1.3 cu ft³ was that the required space for one sub or both. I'm planning a dual sub hidden spare install and was curious if using 2 subs like you did would require twice the area space inside the enclosure?
I’m just going to guess and say the larger piece is to one help with fighting vibration as well as stabilizing the enclosure itself,, and it will also prevent anything from falling into the wheel well and shaking along the side of the enclosure itself, the factory stock barely covers the well, or possibly making it larger to make it easier to attach a beauty panel to
It??
Beautiful work! Does the speaker box float in the car or do you end up bolting it down?
Watch the rest of the build series on my channel ;)
I don't use Twitter and all those things, any chance you have a plan for a 14 ram box, one side, passenger, for a 12" shallow sub? Great videos as well!
Where are you located and how much you charge to build a custom box for a 2014 kia optima sx?
Why build a complex enclosure (and use up precious space) when you can simply install the sound deadener and use a baffle/front panel across the top of the well? This gives you a sealed enclosure in and of itself? This is what I did in my '95 Mustang, and it worked out very well.
Golf with Fender Audio has the subwoofer tucked in the center of the spare tire well With the tire in it. It sounds fantastic, but isn't much larger than a half cantaloupe.
Awesome work mare
Man, you're a pro
The oversized panel will be easier to secure to the vehicle, maybe even with the factory mounting points.
Mark, I really struggle with math; always have.
I sure wish I could have you or someone else figure my needed box volume for a P2 Rockford Fosgate 10" sub woofer if I give my dimensions.
The larger baffle allows you to remove the subwoofer when you want to, and positively locates in the trunk without allowing it to move around and possibly causing a buzzing around where it isn't wanted. Am I close?
raw talent
Doing my best, trying to improve one build at a time. Thank you.
Hi
I'm doing my first sub install into my car and I calculated that I need a power cable that is at least 16 mm². At my local audio shop they have 20 mm² and 35 mm² wiring kits. Is it good to take the 20 mm² or should I take the 35 mm² just to be safe? Any problems with having too large cable?
YOU ARE THE BEST!!!MORE SUBS....LETS GO
i'd like to buy one of this for my project , i have a TW3 12'' JL
How much space must there be between the bottom of the subwoofer and the floor
Mark, diggin’ the build. Watched all the videos for project stealth and honestly would like to hire you to customize my impala. I have…
(3) 10w6v1
Precision Power PCX-2400
Precision Power PCX-480
Precision Power PAR-225
I want my trunk pounding clean n clear of rattling and outside noise just like your Pontiac. Please let me know if you’re available for “Project Impala”
Sorry for the public message, I don’t know how to direct message on RUclips.
Can u still use the trunk space once the woofers are installed?
Great job man
Well done. BUt you could have just installed a single twelve inch, higher power, and use rockwool or foam bedsheet insulation. The two tens are about as loud as a single twelve, but with more mid range.
The soft foam fabric will allow deeper bass.
Boot floor is likely flat where the base of the spare may not be, adding an extra large baffle means the enclosure has a flat reference point rather than siting the enclosure on the bottom of the spare wheel well and trying to match the rest of the panels with that after...
Boom! Finally soneone got it! It also gives me a good way to add spacers for the beauty panels that will sit up above the subwoofer and amps.
CarAudioFabrication ill be waiting by the front door for the prize money in the mail 😂
Hello, what type of wood are you using to build this subwoofer box ?
Hey quick question for you, I dont quite have enough room in my trunk to add the speakers I would like to and meet the box volume requirements, would using a shape like this distort the sound in any way if I added a larger rectangular piece to the top to increase my volume?
A suggestion. Why don't you use metric system? Much much easier and sensitive. The spec sheet did have the metric values needed.
Because I use the imperial system. More sensitive? Lol. Converting values isn't hard, but folks who use metric always seem to have trouble with it.
Any need for internal bracing in a setup like that Mark? Not getting crazy with power or a ton of cone area may not necessitate it, just asking the question.