Gate looks good! Gravity is not the friend of gates. Add two more hinges on each side to minimize warpage and hold the weight, and a turn buckle and cable from the the top of each wall corner to the bottom of each center corner to hold the middle level. Most likely will twist and sag over time otherwise. Look forward to the vids!
yeah and probably skip the glueing up idea, one solid lump of wood that size would expand like crazy, cracking and twisting, 1/4" every 6", best using metal braces running across the length with metal nails in it
More hinges won’t stop the sagging. The way that gate is built is guaranteed to sag. If you want wooden paling fence you need a steel frame with proper cross bracing. I tried wooden gates for years. Battling them with wire braces and extra cross braces, trolley wheels. None of it worked long term. Eventually got some steel frames welded up. Super solid. Screwed all the palings to them and they have been bulletproof for 10 years at least. Main problem is my fence and gates are 100% hardwood. So the gates are crazy heavy. I have them mounted so I can lift them off out of the way if needed. They are so heavy though it’s near impossible to get them back on. I’ll be doing aluminium gates if I ever replace them or build a new fence.
The gate is going to be a saging disaster. Even a wheel in the middle will make it wonky. The hinges should have been built into the wall. In a year or so when you have had enough of it. Add 2 steel 4x4 post behind the wall & weld the hinges on. Frame the gate with square tubing & cover or hire a contractor to make you a ornamental iron gate...Also put some future conduit across the driveway before finishing concrete. Happy Easter
Looks nice....but yup....as is the gates going to sag if not pull out of wall altogether, just screwed in like that. 1. Remove all that extra weight back planking and use on next gate. 2. Add some cable diagonal brace at back side and 3. Put some support wheels on bottom. And later when it still eventually sags and your tired of messing with it....build welded metal frame & post for the planking.
Not that I’m any great structural engineer, but my first thought with putting a back on that gate was that it was going to make it awful heavy putting a lot of stress on those hinges
Agree with the comments about weight, Matt. I've done a lot of fence and quite a few gates. Gravity is definitely not the friend of gates! I agree with the addition of one or two more hinges on each side. I personally wouldn't have built the backside panels. Time and humidity will work against ya as well like @psbasset said! Looks really good now though!
Over built in my opinion and may be a little to heavy.I'm sure Matt will come up with a solution if he runs into a problem , He's quite the problem solver
Not just the hinges, that is the least problem with this setup. He screwed the hinges directly into hollow blocks. Das no guten...esta no bueno... es muy mal!. There should have been a vertical 2x6 mounted to the walls, then mount the hinges to those. That would not only disperse the load across the height of the wall, but it would prevent having 4 hinge screws mounted directly into hollow block, in very close proximity. Over time, those screws will strip out and/or crumble the blocks they're mounted to. I've offered to give them free consultation on this stuff, before they do it, as have others who know what they're doing. But Matt just keeps chugging along, making everything 10x harder, and 4x more expensive than things need to be. Most of the things they've done, will need to be re-done within a couple years. Some much sooner than that. A little self education can go a long way. So it goes.
You need a couple diagonal 2x4’s on both doors to help keep those doors from sagging. Adding lumber to the inside will double the weight. They will sag!!! Start at the bottom hinge side and finish at the top center, where the two doors meet.
Not only will it sag, it'll destroy the walls where those hinges are screwed directly into the block. That's a BIG no no, especially with a gate that heavy. Oh well, their time and money I guess. It's a frustrating channel to watch, for someone who knows how to do all of the things they're attempting.
@@MichaelWilliams-in3iz Dude, not once did I initiate a discussion with you. Please stop, this is getting to stalker level. I'm a builder, fyi. I know what I'm talking about.
Couple things; mounting the hinges to the wall like that will cause those blocks to crumble over time. Should've mounted vertical 2x6, tapcon that to the wall, and mount your gate to that. This spreads the load out over the height (and that's a crazy heavy gate), and more importantly prevents you from destroying the block by having 4 hinge screws so close together, into the block (this will crumble the block over a fairly short time). Also, diagonal bracing should have been added to the back side, like a "forward slash" in a web address, starting at the bottom where it contacts the wall. A little research ahead of time would save you so much grief... You can see around 21:38 or so, the hinges have already bent. The gate already has sagged. Close it, and put a straight edge across the bottom...
Needs more hinges for the long term Being the primary gateway probably need to reinforce the wall ends with steel & replace the gate frame with steel just thoughts
I will second the concerns about the weight of the gates and the capacity of those two poor hinges and the fasteners in the block wall. I hope I am wrong, but I would have liked to see a bit more engineering in the way those gate doors are mounted.
You need to fit door posts to wall,they need to be at least 2x4 then fit the doors to the posts,suggest the posts need to be fixed with at least half inch rag bolts, but you are doing great,just trying to be helpful. 😊
A front, and now a back on that gate, you'r correct, it will need capping or every twig, leaf and bug will make it its home, then it’ll rain and the water will collect and soak, eventually causing warping and rot. Also, with the weight of those gates they’ll require much heavier duty hinges than those present.
I very much doubt he will listen, to anyone. Genuinely do not understand it... character flaw maybe... IDK. Some people are just hard wired to do the opposite of what knowledgeable folks recommend. My wife is like that, it's endlessly frustrating.
Just two bits from the cheap seats ...... install wheels on the gates to aid opening etc. but also to take some of the load off of your hinges, and beef up those screws holding the gate to the block wall. A gate with that load over time will work those anchor screws loose. Like I said, just two bits from the cheap seats. The only other suggestion would be a tower with a search light and 50 cal. gun to protect the estate.
@@hoppas77 Just google driveway gate wheels and you will see many different options. Obviously they work best on a hard surface such as cement or asphalt or a well compacted crushed gravel. If you just have dirt that gets muddy with each rain, the wheels won't function as well. With a heavy gate they go a long way in extending the life of hinges etc. Regardles of how you attach the hinges to the block wall, that connection is no better than the integrity of the wall itself. Most cement blocks are not that dense and sooner or later if the screw and anchor is all that supports, it will fail, and it is the cement block that fails.
@@georgeeko There are wheels that are on a spring which would allow the wheel to ride over uneven surfaces. The gate is also going to spend more of it's life closed than open, and in that state the wheel is always taking the load.
Hey Matty I love what you're doing the only problem I see with your doors is your hinges are too small they will never support all that weight for very long so get ready to have to replace the hinges other than that everything's looking Dynamite keep it up
You'll be putting large masonry bolts in those hinges after the screws work back and forth and crumble the concrete cinder. Then when the masonry bolts also crumble the cinder block you'll be putting steel posts in the ground with steel bolts fastening the hinges to it. Then when it sags, you'll be putting a diagonal brace from the lower hinge to the upper corner. Gravity is forcing the top corner of the door (where it opens) down and puts all the weight on the upper hinge. The brace brings it back to the wall it's attached to. (Lower hinge pushes into the wall, upper hinge is pulled out of the wall) Also, a wheel for sag can be used or both. The important key to any gate is a strong immovable base, like a 4X4 steel beam in concrete. So many gates have been built and learned how to overcome, solid base, sag, and upper hinge pulling out. Besides a few structural changes, the gates are beautiful. Sometimes simple is elegant. The stain of the fence from light tan to golden, the white stucco walls, and the gate looks very nice together, very 'spanish' and fits in well with where you are.
You are predrilling the screw hole way to close to the front outer edge of the block wall. It’s going to eventually crack. Center the hinges in the width of the block ends. BIGGER hinges would lengthen the workable life of your gates.
Two little hinges for that gate will soon lead to sagging. Wheels or bigger hinges are in your future. It does look nice but with time and weather it will warp or hinges will fail. You both are hard working people. Just don't use your hard work to do it twice. Your homestead is coming along and will take time. Good luck in the future.
Great job you two! But I'm a bit concerned with the high winds you folks get there that if the gates are blown against the hinges because the latch or whatever (that you'll be fitting?) becomes unlatched, the screws could maybe pull out of the wall!
I know others have said this but I'll add a comment for the algorithm: Those hinges are screaming for mercy! That's way to much weight for a wooden framed gate. You guys should find a welder to build a 2x2 square aluminum framed gate that you can screw the slats onto with heavy duty hinges (hell a piano hinge would hold up best). Others have said steel below but I've found .125 aluminum weighs a lot less than steel and is a hell of a lot stronger than wood. Plus it'll hold up against corrosion longer than steel will. $.02
Cutting off the tops of the gate slats - buy yourself a chaulk line, Matty. Another very handy tool - a laser measuring tape for measuring across larger distances like the gap between walls/the width of the gate system. The Bosch is my favorite.
Matt, scrap the frame idea brother. If you need to bring in something tall on the truck, or some equipment, you'll be pulling the frame down. It looks great the way it is.
For all of these building projects, build yourself a 4*8 workshop trailer to move around the property. Use an old utility trailer. Integrate tool storage drawers below, and a marine plywood top work surface. Coat the wood with polyurethane paint. You could integrate a small table saw for rip cuts, and add a recess to hold your miter saw. You could also put a pop up shade around it to hold off drizzle and sunburns. Save your knees and back and speed up your work. Cutting with the circular saw with wood hanging off things isn't ideal for safety and accuracy.
Great show, again. Just an old gate builders tip. You can add a ton of stability and anti sag strength to your gate by installing a diagonal 2x running from the top of the gates corner (or as close to the corner as you can get, to to other hardware that might be there) down to the opposite corner at the gates bottom hinge. This creates a compression point to support gates weight, keep it square and extend the gates' lifetime.
Matt if you're concerned about rocks hitting on the bottom of your gate maybe on the back use some kind of a rubber sweep. That way you can keep your boards up a little higher and still keep out critters like groundhogs and kangaroos lmao. Also I'll second and third the worry about the weight time will tell. But that wall and those gates look incredible Nice job!
The gate hinge attachment will not work. Also the wind will swing the gate with great force, and it will rip it out. Matt will need a workshop and more tools. I enjoy your videos and look forward to it each Sunday. If you both can tolerate the frustrations of living together and working together in close confined space then things are good!
Looks great 😊 might consider small roller wheels at the bottom end of the doors that helps with carrying the weight and keeps the doors from sagging, makes it easier to open and close, just a thought, place is looking awesome 😎😁, the world is not. Level, y,ou,s do great work 😊
Matt and Kristen, The gate looks amazing! But, you have to do something to stop the gate from going forward towards the street or it will pull the lag bolts right out of the block wall. My suggestion would be, on the backside of the gate, on either side of the drive, about three feet back, sink two eighth inch thick three inch round diameter poles about three feet tall. Tie a cable from the top of each pole to the back of each gate. The cables will stop the gate from going forward. I know you’d think it would never happen but, some strong wind, a visitor trying to help close the gate too hard or a toddler pushing one the gate could push them forward, pull out the bolts and send the gate down on top of whoever pushed it. You must come up with a plan to stop the gate from going the other way or you will regret it! Signed, Brad and Trak’r !!!
When y’all were standing by the fence. It looked so much like a prop. Especially with the hills in the back. Yall have a very good vibe with what yall have built. My hats off. Cheers!
The gate looks fantastic. It looks really heavy though. Over time will those hinges let the gate sag? If so maybe a couple of small wheels in the middle. Keep on.
Looks great you two! A small piece of advise. Even with those metal corner brackets all that wood weight will eventually cause each gate side to sag and become out of square. To keep this from happening use attach a small stainless cable for the lower far corner to the upper opposite lower corner, and include a small turnbuckle to make adjustments if/when necessary. Been there, done that.
I am afraid that I have to echo the sentiments of other followers here. 1) Remove the "second skin" as it is simply too much weight. 2) Replace the hinges with MUCH HEAVIER units - maybe use 4 per side. That is actually a seriously heavy gate you put together there. And maybe look at hinges that you can remove the pivot pin to remove the gate entirely if needed. 3) Add turnbuckles and cables from the top on the hinge side to the bottom on the opening side so that you can tension them up to remove any "droop" - Because they WILL droop - ALL wooden gates that wide do that. 4) Increase the bottom gap so that it is definitely more than the biggest gravel stones that you will have in the area. Remember that once you have a gate motor set installed and the gate hits a large stone, either the motor burns out pretty quick OR the gate gets ripped apart. If you put a frame across the top of the gates PLEASE make sure that you can quickly and easily remove it. You will still be getting all sorts of deliveries of building materials when you start the house and getting them delivered inside the property is way better than unloading them on the gravel sidewalk outside. The roadside visual appeal of your property is going to be pretty impressive once the lights are installed.
One step forward is progress. Time and Timelines are just our human way of keeping track. You two are living the mantra I tell myself each morning "Today is a new day. We have been given this day to use as we will. We can waste it or use it for good. Today is important because we are exchanging a day of our lives for it. When tomorrow comes this day will be gone forever. Leaving in its place something that we have traded. Make sure it is GAIN not loss... GOOD not evil... SUCCESS not failure! Live Like a CHAMPION today!"
I wouldn't use screws to hold the gate on. I'd use concrete anchors and bolts. Also, along the bottom, you should get broom material striping, that will deny small animals, and also would sweep the rocks away as the gate travelled.
Dude, I'm a fabricator with steel and have been doing it for many years and I just have to tell you nothing ever works out perfect you always make a little mistake here and there and the fact that you put it out there for everybody to see is very admirable. I think you do fine work. I love every week watching your videos keep it up.
I got a design idea for your guys.... after you stain it... go buy some cheap black iron Spanish designs on the front of the gates! I am sure there is many places on your island that makes them custom for you and cheap! Should be a fantastic look! The Arizona Kid!
A message from "easy to be me" Gate looks great BUT would have been nice to have heavier gauge gate bracket hardware...they do make it heavier gauge. also the hinges are way small and you need another center hinge. Really isn't that big of a deal for the fact you can just do it over later. Also, you can have the gate higher than an inch and have a full length of black bristle stripping under the gate to "sweep" the driveway as it opens and closes. It keeps the critters in and out.
You should put another hinge in the middle 3hinges like a regular door. And put a door stop like a pipe in concrete on both side people won’t run into your wall and the wind won’t rip the gate off when open and one more thing fill in the top so it’s sealed water with rot from the inside out if you don’t fill that space in. Other than that y’all are doing a great job doing this all by yourselves your saving a lot of money and making it happen. Happy Easter and be safe. 😎
Looks good, but that is way too much weight and span on those two small hinges and screws securing them. They will be sagging or pulling out of the concrete soon. Add two more hinges per side, or more heavy duty ones with larger hardware.
Personally, to me part of the charm of your videos is watching you screw up and than fix your mistakes. Makes you two more relatable to me. Those gates are going to be very heavy and will probably sag over time. If you added enough glue to make it all effectively one solid piece that might be fine but you most likely will have to have a lot more support for a gate that heavy. More hinges and more and longer screws. I would like to see you on the water more, but still, you two are adorable together,
you may want to consider some small wheels to take up some of the stress on those kina small hinges. also a suggestion for longevity: maybe a removable crossbeam on the back side (like you seen in old movies set in a castle) could be manual lift in and out or you could make it a like a large slide bold. it will stop people from pressing in and keep it from being blown out by wind from the back.
Here’s my 2 cents insert an aircraft wire on the diagonal in between the 2 half’s. Also 2x6 mounted to concrete and hinges attached to that 2x6 will make a world of difference in the long run. May need a wheel on the bottom.
When I had my wood shop. I had a saying for my employees. We don’t have time to do it right. But we always have time to do it over. That gate looks really good. Remember. That wood will dry down and it will also shrink sideways. You might want to wait and glue it up next year. Then it will be a lot tighter gate. You could also run the boards through a joiner. But for outside wood. I wouldn’t take that much time on it. Good luck. Later
Another concern about gate sagging. I've built a few and finally figured out things I've been doing wrong. If you hold your arms straight out sideways that's like the top hinge. If you place a cross member from your ankle to your wrist you could hold it out forever. You also don't want the cross board greater than a 45 degree angle so you may have to add another vertical in the center and back each side of it. RUclips is your friend . Another plausible fix is a gate wheel both sides in the middle. Love your channel and think you guys are awesome. Hope this helps and I promise I'm not criticizing just concerned because I've been there
Nice work! I hope the gate will withstand the winds. You might consider adding an adjustable cross brace to stop the gates from sagging where they join. There's a lot of weight at the ends.
Gates look great. I do think you will need a full cross brace from the top hinge to the bottom center corner on each ( or both directions). If not wood, a cable and a turnbuckle so you can adjust periodically of it sags.
Lol got a new tool belt I see... 😂with nothing in them yet and also your wearing it backwards silly the buckle goes in front 😂😂😂 but you guys are great. Love the effort and push to build and learn yourselves to make things better. Keep pushing y'all are awesome❤
I had some big wood doors, after fifty years old warping out at top. Put wire rope from lower corner to upper middle. Used Harbor freight's version of stayloks, put a block in the middle (spreaders) straightened it pretty well.
As always, an excellent job guys. I have to say, you guys have that long lasting "stay together" chemistry. I am seeing a long and very happy life for you two. If you guys decide to have children, you two are going to make totally excellent parents and will have a amazing children.
Some of the heaviest gate hinges use an adjustable bolt for each hinge. It's very stout and since it's adjustable, you can compensate for something being out of plumb and you can also adjust for a bit pf sag in the future.
Hey brother "Matty-Boy-ee"? Dude, if you are building something that "Nobody" is gon'a see, "OR", something, "YOU" can see, but nobody's ever gon'a see it, "FROM THE ROAD"? Don't look at that S?!T too close? Please? It's kind'a like, don't worry about what you can see in a magnifying mirror, right? Nobody else is ever gon'a see that. Cheers to you two Mates; Y'all are simply smashing it!
Gate looks good! Gravity is not the friend of gates. Add two more hinges on each side to minimize warpage and hold the weight, and a turn buckle and cable from the the top of each wall corner to the bottom of each center corner to hold the middle level. Most likely will twist and sag over time otherwise. Look forward to the vids!
yeah and probably skip the glueing up idea, one solid lump of wood that size would expand like crazy, cracking and twisting, 1/4" every 6", best using metal braces running across the length with metal nails in it
Oh lots of weight there don’t overload hinges and pull out screws
More hinges won’t stop the sagging. The way that gate is built is guaranteed to sag.
If you want wooden paling fence you need a steel frame with proper cross bracing.
I tried wooden gates for years. Battling them with wire braces and extra cross braces, trolley wheels. None of it worked long term.
Eventually got some steel frames welded up. Super solid. Screwed all the palings to them and they have been bulletproof for 10 years at least.
Main problem is my fence and gates are 100% hardwood. So the gates are crazy heavy.
I have them mounted so I can lift them off out of the way if needed. They are so heavy though it’s near impossible to get them back on.
I’ll be doing aluminium gates if I ever replace them or build a new fence.
The gate is going to be a saging disaster. Even a wheel in the middle will make it wonky. The hinges should have been built into the wall. In a year or so when you have had enough of it. Add 2 steel 4x4 post behind the wall & weld the hinges on. Frame the gate with square tubing & cover or hire a contractor to make you a ornamental iron gate...Also put some future conduit across the driveway before finishing concrete. Happy Easter
Looks nice....but yup....as is the gates going to sag if not pull out of wall altogether, just screwed in like that. 1. Remove all that extra weight back planking and use on next gate. 2. Add some cable diagonal brace at back side and 3. Put some support wheels on bottom. And later when it still eventually sags and your tired of messing with it....build welded metal frame & post for the planking.
Not that I’m any great structural engineer, but my first thought with putting a back on that gate was that it was going to make it awful heavy putting a lot of stress on those hinges
Agree with the comments about weight, Matt. I've done a lot of fence and quite a few gates. Gravity is definitely not the friend of gates! I agree with the addition of one or two more hinges on each side. I personally wouldn't have built the backside panels. Time and humidity will work against ya as well like @psbasset said! Looks really good now though!
Over built in my opinion and may be a little to heavy.I'm sure Matt will come up with a solution if he runs into a problem , He's quite the problem solver
Maybe skateboard wheels to hold the weight at the tips of the gate halves.
Not just the hinges, that is the least problem with this setup. He screwed the hinges directly into hollow blocks. Das no guten...esta no bueno... es muy mal!. There should have been a vertical 2x6 mounted to the walls, then mount the hinges to those. That would not only disperse the load across the height of the wall, but it would prevent having 4 hinge screws mounted directly into hollow block, in very close proximity. Over time, those screws will strip out and/or crumble the blocks they're mounted to.
I've offered to give them free consultation on this stuff, before they do it, as have others who know what they're doing. But Matt just keeps chugging along, making everything 10x harder, and 4x more expensive than things need to be. Most of the things they've done, will need to be re-done within a couple years. Some much sooner than that. A little self education can go a long way. So it goes.
@@mikekares-b8q It's not "over-built". It's just built incorrectly. Is what it is.
You need a couple diagonal 2x4’s on both doors to help keep those doors from sagging. Adding lumber to the inside will double the weight. They will sag!!! Start at the bottom hinge side and finish at the top center, where the two doors meet.
Not only will it sag, it'll destroy the walls where those hinges are screwed directly into the block. That's a BIG no no, especially with a gate that heavy. Oh well, their time and money I guess. It's a frustrating channel to watch, for someone who knows how to do all of the things they're attempting.
@@TimTimTomTomdestroy the walls, really?
@@MichaelWilliams-in3iz Yes, really. The four blocks where those hinges are mounted will crumble away within the year. Watch.
@@TimTimTomTom you know they are filled with concrete, or do you not watch every episode?
@@MichaelWilliams-in3iz Dude, not once did I initiate a discussion with you. Please stop, this is getting to stalker level. I'm a builder, fyi. I know what I'm talking about.
I am amazed those hinge screws into the wall are supporting that much weight.
Especially after drilling a second set of holes in the block so close to the original ones.
It is holding for now until the picture is taken.
Not for long 😁
Couple things; mounting the hinges to the wall like that will cause those blocks to crumble over time. Should've mounted vertical 2x6, tapcon that to the wall, and mount your gate to that. This spreads the load out over the height (and that's a crazy heavy gate), and more importantly prevents you from destroying the block by having 4 hinge screws so close together, into the block (this will crumble the block over a fairly short time). Also, diagonal bracing should have been added to the back side, like a "forward slash" in a web address, starting at the bottom where it contacts the wall. A little research ahead of time would save you so much grief...
You can see around 21:38 or so, the hinges have already bent. The gate already has sagged. Close it, and put a straight edge across the bottom...
I agree with this. Frame to the block wall, with 5 or 6 deep fixings, then attatch hinges to that.
Gates looking good. Pretty heavy with box frames. Extra hinges will help 😊
Angle braces are the! Best way, too stop wood door sag.
May I suggest a couple of wheels on back of gates to prevent sagging over time.
Needs more hinges for the long term
Being the primary gateway probably need to reinforce the wall ends with steel & replace the gate frame with steel just thoughts
I will second the concerns about the weight of the gates and the capacity of those two poor hinges and the fasteners in the block wall. I hope I am wrong, but I would have liked to see a bit more engineering in the way those gate doors are mounted.
You need to fit door posts to wall,they need to be at least 2x4 then fit the doors to the posts,suggest the posts need to be fixed with at least half inch rag bolts, but you are doing great,just trying to be helpful. 😊
Great job, Matt!
I'd be tempted to add one more hinge in the middle.
Beautiful the way Kristen glows when you pay her any kind of compliment. That's real love right there.
P.S. Do give us an update with your power pack and the elec tools.....seems to be up to the load...Happy Days.
Just a tip Matt, do the frame and cap the top! Water inside the door will ruin it quick! Much love from the coast of Maine 🤙 ❤️
A front, and now a back on that gate, you'r correct, it will need capping or every twig, leaf and bug will make it its home, then it’ll rain and the water will collect and soak, eventually causing warping and rot. Also, with the weight of those gates they’ll require much heavier duty hinges than those present.
I very much doubt he will listen, to anyone. Genuinely do not understand it... character flaw maybe... IDK. Some people are just hard wired to do the opposite of what knowledgeable folks recommend. My wife is like that, it's endlessly frustrating.
@@TimTimTomTom you’re crazy man, I’ve watched several videos where he took advice from a viewer. Don’t be a hater. 🤡🤡
An aluminum rail in a C shape, painted in black, will do the job.
all the best guys, your killing it!!!
Just two bits from the cheap seats ...... install wheels on the gates to aid opening etc. but also to take some of the load off of your hinges, and beef up those screws holding the gate to the block wall. A gate with that load over time will work those anchor screws loose. Like I said, just two bits from the cheap seats. The only other suggestion would be a tower with a search light and 50 cal. gun to protect the estate.
what kind of wheels? Just curious because we have the issue. I would be worried the dirt would get stopped up in the wheels.
@@hoppas77 Just google driveway gate wheels and you will see many different options. Obviously they work best on a hard surface such as cement or asphalt or a well compacted crushed gravel. If you just have dirt that gets muddy with each rain, the wheels won't function as well. With a heavy gate they go a long way in extending the life of hinges etc. Regardles of how you attach the hinges to the block wall, that connection is no better than the integrity of the wall itself. Most cement blocks are not that dense and sooner or later if the screw and anchor is all that supports, it will fail, and it is the cement block that fails.
The driveway is not flat but goes down steep so the wheels would be not supported when the gate is open.
@@georgeeko There are wheels that are on a spring which would allow the wheel to ride over uneven surfaces. The gate is also going to spend more of it's life closed than open, and in that state the wheel is always taking the load.
Hahaha! " Tower , Search light, and 50 Cal". That's funny!
Hey Matty I love what you're doing the only problem I see with your doors is your hinges are too small they will never support all that weight for very long so get ready to have to replace the hinges other than that everything's looking Dynamite keep it up
You'll be putting large masonry bolts in those hinges after the screws work back and forth and crumble the concrete cinder. Then when the masonry bolts also crumble the cinder block you'll be putting steel posts in the ground with steel bolts fastening the hinges to it.
Then when it sags, you'll be putting a diagonal brace from the lower hinge to the upper corner. Gravity is forcing the top corner of the door (where it opens) down and puts all the weight on the upper hinge. The brace brings it back to the wall it's attached to. (Lower hinge pushes into the wall, upper hinge is pulled out of the wall) Also, a wheel for sag can be used or both. The important key to any gate is a strong immovable base, like a 4X4 steel beam in concrete. So many gates have been built and learned how to overcome, solid base, sag, and upper hinge pulling out.
Besides a few structural changes, the gates are beautiful. Sometimes simple is elegant. The stain of the fence from light tan to golden, the white stucco walls, and the gate looks very nice together, very 'spanish' and fits in well with where you are.
Looks Good guys!!!!!!
Plz Plz add as many hinges as u can because over time u will wish u had!! I would add at least 2 more on each side and some beautiful handles 😊😊
Awesome fence guys
You are predrilling the screw hole way to close to the front outer edge of the block wall. It’s going to eventually crack. Center the hinges in the width of the block ends. BIGGER hinges would lengthen the workable life of your gates.
Hinges are far too weak for the weight, right hinge should have half inch thick pin in it.
Adding turnbuckles inside the gates will give you some ability to adjust for sag going forward
Two little hinges for that gate will soon lead to sagging. Wheels or bigger hinges are in your future. It does look nice but with time and weather it will warp or hinges will fail. You both are hard working people. Just don't use your hard work to do it twice. Your homestead is coming along and will take time. Good luck in the future.
Great job you two! But I'm a bit concerned with the high winds you folks get there that if the gates are blown against the hinges because the latch or whatever (that you'll be fitting?) becomes unlatched, the screws could maybe pull out of the wall!
I know others have said this but I'll add a comment for the algorithm: Those hinges are screaming for mercy! That's way to much weight for a wooden framed gate. You guys should find a welder to build a 2x2 square aluminum framed gate that you can screw the slats onto with heavy duty hinges (hell a piano hinge would hold up best). Others have said steel below but I've found .125 aluminum weighs a lot less than steel and is a hell of a lot stronger than wood. Plus it'll hold up against corrosion longer than steel will. $.02
I like the WHite with the wood and then the Blue sky behind it!!!!
Cutting off the tops of the gate slats - buy yourself a chaulk line, Matty. Another very handy tool - a laser measuring tape for measuring across larger distances like the gap between walls/the width of the gate system. The Bosch is my favorite.
Looks great!
Matt, scrap the frame idea brother. If you need to bring in something tall on the truck, or some equipment, you'll be pulling the frame down. It looks great the way it is.
looks good guys
I love watching Mat play with the drill, it brings me back to the 70's and 80's. buy a driver man! lol. the door looks great guys.
I keep yelling this at the screen too. Get an impact for crying out loud.
Lol, use anchors too. One thing it looks good! his finish work is great! Can't wait to see the drywall work.😊
😂
Lol we looked at an impact but after the wedding the tool budget will open up a bit
I resisted getting a driver for way too long. It was transformational
For all of these building projects, build yourself a 4*8 workshop trailer to move around the property. Use an old utility trailer. Integrate tool storage drawers below, and a marine plywood top work surface. Coat the wood with polyurethane paint. You could integrate a small table saw for rip cuts, and add a recess to hold your miter saw. You could also put a pop up shade around it to hold off drizzle and sunburns. Save your knees and back and speed up your work. Cutting with the circular saw with wood hanging off things isn't ideal for safety and accuracy.
Great show, again. Just an old gate builders tip. You can add a ton of stability and anti sag strength to your gate by installing a diagonal 2x running from the top of the gates corner (or as close to the corner as you can get, to to other hardware that might be there) down to the opposite corner at the gates bottom hinge. This creates a compression point to support gates weight, keep it square and extend the gates' lifetime.
Matt if you're concerned about rocks hitting on the bottom of your gate maybe on the back use some kind of a rubber sweep. That way you can keep your boards up a little higher and still keep out critters like groundhogs and kangaroos lmao. Also I'll second and third the worry about the weight time will tell. But that wall and those gates look incredible Nice job!
The gate hinge attachment will not work. Also the wind will swing the gate with great force, and it will rip it out. Matt will need a workshop and more tools. I enjoy your videos and look forward to it each Sunday. If you both can tolerate the frustrations of living together and working together in close confined space then things are good!
They've lived on a sailboat, if that was not enough, they should be good here.
You need more or heavy duty hinges, the door is to heavy AND its advisable to support the doorpanels diagonally.. ( from the button hinge up )
Diagonal support should run from the bottom center to the top hinge, not the other way.
Looks great 😊 might consider small roller wheels at the bottom end of the doors that helps with carrying the weight and keeps the doors from sagging, makes it easier to open and close, just a thought, place is looking awesome 😎😁, the world is not. Level, y,ou,s do great work 😊
Or at least 2 more hinges on each side and do something to keep the screws from working loose 😊
Gate looks great!
Matt and Kristen,
The gate looks amazing! But, you have to do something to stop the gate from going forward towards the street or it will pull the lag bolts right out of the block wall. My suggestion would be, on the backside of the gate, on either side of the drive, about three feet back, sink two eighth inch thick three inch round diameter poles about three feet tall. Tie a cable from the top of each pole to the back of each gate. The cables will stop the gate from going forward. I know you’d think it would never happen but, some strong wind, a visitor trying to help close the gate too hard or a toddler pushing one the gate could push them forward, pull out the bolts and send the gate down on top of whoever pushed it. You must come up with a plan to stop the gate from going the other way or you will regret it!
Signed, Brad and Trak’r !!!
Needs one maybe two more hinges each side......just a thought......Looks good. Just have fun life is short...:)
The gate looks great! I would suggest a diagonal support from the center top to the outer bottom hinge.
Diagonal support should go the other way, from center bottom of the gate to the top hinge.
When y’all were standing by the fence. It looked so much like a prop. Especially with the hills in the back. Yall have a very good vibe with what yall have built. My hats off. Cheers!
The gate looks fantastic. It looks really heavy though. Over time will those hinges let the gate sag? If so maybe a couple of small wheels in the middle. Keep on.
Appreciate your hard work!
Hey Matt, It’s a little too late but I would have scrolled the top of the gate to give it that classy look…
I was thinkin the same thing
Gate looks great guys!
Great video
Random, and unsolicited, you guys made the transition from sailing to DIY homesteading pretty seamless. Everything is looking great!
Looks great you two! A small piece of advise. Even with those metal corner brackets all that wood weight will eventually cause each gate side to sag and become out of square. To keep this from happening use attach a small stainless cable for the lower far corner to the upper opposite lower corner, and include a small turnbuckle to make adjustments if/when necessary. Been there, done that.
Install broken glass on the top of the wall. Greatly reduces bird droppings and trespassing
Caught 2 potential break-ins with the glass on the wall. How did I know, the blood dripping on the wall. That and a dog will be the best alarm system.
@@missdorado21 After calculating the total area of the property, I have concluded you need at least two Doberman! 😆
and a couple shotguns
Nah, you don't want that, that'll set you up for a lawsuit if someone gets hurt; regardless of who got hurt.
Great job on the gate, it looks great!
The two of you together can accomplish anything, you each compliment each other perfectly .the property is looking great
Awesome job guys!
I am afraid that I have to echo the sentiments of other followers here.
1) Remove the "second skin" as it is simply too much weight.
2) Replace the hinges with MUCH HEAVIER units - maybe use 4 per side. That is actually a seriously heavy gate you put together there. And maybe look at hinges that you can remove the pivot pin to remove the gate entirely if needed.
3) Add turnbuckles and cables from the top on the hinge side to the bottom on the opening side so that you can tension them up to remove any "droop" - Because they WILL droop - ALL wooden gates that wide do that.
4) Increase the bottom gap so that it is definitely more than the biggest gravel stones that you will have in the area.
Remember that once you have a gate motor set installed and the gate hits a large stone, either the motor burns out pretty quick OR the gate gets ripped apart.
If you put a frame across the top of the gates PLEASE make sure that you can quickly and easily remove it. You will still be getting all sorts of deliveries of building materials when you start the house and getting them delivered inside the property is way better than unloading them on the gravel sidewalk outside.
The roadside visual appeal of your property is going to be pretty impressive once the lights are installed.
Good stuff guys . Coming along nicely 🆒😎👍!
Start every Sunday morning with coffee and GBU, perhaps at some point there could be “gbu’ coffee?
Clealry someone is veeeeeery excited with the wedding...! He just lights up when mentioned t...!🥰☺☺☺☺☺☺
This is a "how-not-to" video. Pure entertainment. Regardless, looking forward to watching both of you sharing your journey
Who thinks the only way these videos could possibly get any better is with little Matties and Kristens running around? ❤️❤️ love you both!
Whoa whoa whoa.... uncle Matty chuckin that level around like that. No no no sir!
I saw that too! No bueno.
😧@@dclements54
Kristen is HIGH MAINTENANCE FOR SURE...
One step forward is progress. Time and Timelines are just our human way of keeping track. You two are living the mantra I tell myself each morning "Today is a new day. We have been given this day to use as we will. We can waste it or use it for good. Today is important because we are exchanging a day of our lives for it. When tomorrow comes this day will be gone forever. Leaving in its place something that we have traded. Make sure it is GAIN not loss... GOOD not evil... SUCCESS not failure! Live Like a CHAMPION today!"
MATT MATT. Most doors have an angled pieces in the frame to make it self supporting
Happy Easter! Love watching yall! John 3:16
I wouldn't use screws to hold the gate on. I'd use concrete anchors and bolts. Also, along the bottom, you should get broom material striping, that will deny small animals, and also would sweep the rocks away as the gate travelled.
Put a wheel on each gate and you'll never have to worry about sagging.
Looks great! You guys are doing a fantastic job! And at the end of the day, you can say it was all your sweat and tears! 👏👏👏
Wishing everyone a blessed Easter. 1 Corinthians 13:13 🙏🏻
Matt, you need to put a support board or cable system into transfer the load to the hinges. Or it will sag over time.
Dude, I'm a fabricator with steel and have been doing it for many years and I just have to tell you nothing ever works out perfect you always make a little mistake here and there and the fact that you put it out there for everybody to see is very admirable. I think you do fine work. I love every week watching your videos keep it up.
I got a design idea for your guys.... after you stain it... go buy some cheap black iron Spanish designs on the front of the gates! I am sure there is many places on your island that makes them custom for you and cheap! Should be a fantastic look! The Arizona Kid!
AGAIN and AS ALWAYS ----- FANTASTIC See-ya next time.
Oh man, you guys had enough material on top to do an open book end design, O well
Guys have you thought about perhaps screwing a brush strip along the bottom to help push away any access gravel..?
A message from "easy to be me" Gate looks great BUT would have been nice to have heavier gauge gate bracket hardware...they do make it heavier gauge. also the hinges are way small and you need another center hinge. Really isn't that big of a deal for the fact you can just do it over later. Also, you can have the gate higher than an inch and have a full length of black bristle stripping under the gate to "sweep" the driveway as it opens and closes. It keeps the critters in and out.
You should put another hinge in the middle 3hinges like a regular door. And put a door stop like a pipe in concrete on both side people won’t run into your wall and the wind won’t rip the gate off when open and one more thing fill in the top so it’s sealed water with rot from the inside out if you don’t fill that space in. Other than that y’all are doing a great job doing this all by yourselves your saving a lot of money and making it happen. Happy Easter and be safe. 😎
Looks good, but that is way too much weight and span on those two small hinges and screws securing them. They will be sagging or pulling out of the concrete soon. Add two more hinges per side, or more heavy duty ones with larger hardware.
Personally, to me part of the charm of your videos is watching you screw up and than fix your mistakes. Makes you two more relatable to me. Those gates are going to be very heavy and will probably sag over time. If you added enough glue to make it all effectively one solid piece that might be fine but you most likely will have to have a lot more support for a gate that heavy. More hinges and more and longer screws. I would like to see you on the water more, but still, you two are adorable together,
you may want to consider some small wheels to take up some of the stress on those kina small hinges. also a suggestion for longevity: maybe a removable crossbeam on the back side (like you seen in old movies set in a castle) could be manual lift in and out or you could make it a like a large slide bold. it will stop people from pressing in and keep it from being blown out by wind from the back.
Two peas in a pod deserve to be Married!!! Looking good guy’s !!! Thank the good Lord for all He has done!
Love how things are turning out.
For chickens the best is an electric fence, wide tape the same one use for horses. About 3 to 4 inches from the ground. It works like a beauty
Good job Matt. Looks awesome...
I would be incredibly pleased with what you have transformed the front of your property into! Keep it up guys
Here’s my 2 cents insert an aircraft wire on the diagonal in between the 2 half’s. Also 2x6 mounted to concrete and hinges attached to that 2x6 will make a world of difference in the long run. May need a wheel on the bottom.
When I had my wood shop. I had a saying for my employees. We don’t have time to do it right. But we always have time to do it over. That gate looks really good. Remember. That wood will dry down and it will also shrink sideways. You might want to wait and glue it up next year. Then it will be a lot tighter gate. You could also run the boards through a joiner. But for outside wood. I wouldn’t take that much time on it. Good luck. Later
Another concern about gate sagging. I've built a few and finally figured out things I've been doing wrong. If you hold your arms straight out sideways that's like the top hinge. If you place a cross member from your ankle to your wrist you could hold it out forever. You also don't want the cross board greater than a 45 degree angle so you may have to add another vertical in the center and back each side of it. RUclips is your friend . Another plausible fix is a gate wheel both sides in the middle. Love your channel and think you guys are awesome. Hope this helps and I promise I'm not criticizing just concerned because I've been there
Nice work! I hope the gate will withstand the winds. You might consider adding an adjustable cross brace to stop the gates from sagging where they join. There's a lot of weight at the ends.
Gates look great. I do think you will need a full cross brace from the top hinge to the bottom center corner on each ( or both directions). If not wood, a cable and a turnbuckle so you can adjust periodically of it sags.
Lol got a new tool belt I see... 😂with nothing in them yet and also your wearing it backwards silly the buckle goes in front 😂😂😂 but you guys are great. Love the effort and push to build and learn yourselves to make things better. Keep pushing y'all are awesome❤
I had some big wood doors, after fifty years old warping out at top. Put wire rope from lower corner to upper middle. Used Harbor freight's version of stayloks, put a block in the middle (spreaders) straightened it pretty well.
I love that you two work it out together and have a great attitude about it. Time might kill ya But YOU seriously put in the TIME!!!!!!!! Looks GOOD!
Matt your such a perfectionist. You do great work 👍🏻
As always, an excellent job guys. I have to say, you guys have that long lasting "stay together" chemistry. I am seeing a long and very happy life for you two. If you guys decide to have children, you two are going to make totally excellent parents and will have a amazing children.
Bringing some class to the neighborhood. Looking good!
Some of the heaviest gate hinges use an adjustable bolt for each hinge. It's very stout and since it's adjustable, you can compensate for something being out of plumb and you can also adjust for a bit pf sag in the future.
Thanks!
Hey brother "Matty-Boy-ee"? Dude, if you are building something that "Nobody" is gon'a see, "OR", something, "YOU" can see, but nobody's ever gon'a see it, "FROM THE ROAD"? Don't look at that S?!T too close? Please? It's kind'a like, don't worry about what you can see in a magnifying mirror, right? Nobody else is ever gon'a see that. Cheers to you two Mates; Y'all are simply smashing it!