Long time watcher, first time caller 😂 just wanted to say your progression has been fun to watch and this video was super well done👍 👍 keep on building!!!
When I first started wrenching on bikes 25+ years ago I always would forget which side was reverse threaded for the bottom bracket and pedals. Finally got myself to remember by thinking spin the tool towards the front of the bike to remove the bottom bracket and reverse of that for the pedals.
Yes but trying to keep it as simple as possible for new builders. Most carbon handlebars come with grittier texture where connection points are, these days and don't require it.
15:21 Tip for tricky tubeless tape: use a rag or microfiber towel or old towel, what ever, slide it on top, it slides better than your fingers, so you can get the tape completely on the rim,, no air bubbles, if you get air bubbles they will burst and it will leak. This is an issue with Stan's Notubes tape used in this video, so this method works well, and the bubbles seen in this vid won't happen. The thumb sticks to this tape so well it's tricky but the rag or towel will make it much easier.
Great video. Something I've been doing for years is taking tired bikes and bringing them up to date and ride worthy. Just a little tip .. You say you're taking off a suntour xcm but it's actually an xc30 or Judy coil from rockshox. You can swap out the coil for the air cartridge from the parts catalogue and save a fortune on these forks by converting them to air rather than replacing. Also brings the weight down as you're making it silver air spec.
This is a great video and beneficial for many parents! With a 5 year old I had the same “problems” and came to the same solutions. Up to the tire size of 20 inches tubeless rims a not very common, especially on used bikes. Depending on your type of terrain, lightweight tubes like tubolito might be an option there. If you’re a serious MTBer you probably have a parts bin with (not so) old, but very good components, which you can give to your kids!
I don't use the plunger anymore when filling sealant. I seat the bead dry. Remove core, screw onto valve body, pinch hose, and then dump Stans to desired level. I don't have any drips or mess now other than rinsing the syringe. If you squeeze the tire you may push air/sealant out of the tire. In about a dozen tires I haven't done that yet though.
21:34 Get a longer cassette lock ring tool for better leverage. Instead of a chain whip I prefer to use Pedros Vise Whip II, it's like vise grips but for the cogs, the handle size stays the same no matter the cog size, nice rounded handle. it's fool proof, easy to work with, not as quick, but less likely to mess up. I bought two in case I work on stuck multi piece cog cassettes, then I can could wiggle and rotate them until they come off piece by piece, no hammering needed, but not tried it yet.
13:13 I agree adjust once the rider is on the bike. But I have a some things to add: The angle depends on the cockpit height, reach, longer the reach higher the bar, flatter the brakes can be angled, I like mine flat or there about, if the bike has too short reach and cockpit way too low you are forced to use a steeper angle to not kink the wrists, but your hand will be fatigued, and increased chance of arm pump, but if the opposite is true, there hands can rest on the grip, and levers be about flat. I've seen kids ride with brakes almost vertical, or almost flat, barely reaching the levers or not at all without twisting hands, or flat so they kink the wrist, also reach adjustment is a common mistake, not adjusting it, also overtightening the clamp to insane torque, but this is also done by summer temporary workers in sports stores, resulting in bent brake levers. If the rider spends most of the time on the rear wheel steeper angle is suitable, like trails riders do. Otherwise it's somewhere between flat and 45 deg, but even so 45 deg, I think bike doesn't fit that well if this suits the rider.
22:27 In my experience they come loose eventually, so I use Loctite 243 to prevent it, it helps to keep it secure for longer, in my experience without, just grease it comes loose faster. even tightened hard as always. If you hear a creak from the rear it might be cus fo that. I only apply a bit, no need to overdo it. Also I found the SunRace lock rings to round off eventually. I recommend to keep spares, never throw away the lock rings, spacers.
I found the bead to be good on Bontrager tyres, some models have rubber that wears out in just 4 weeks, like the XR3 Expert, some last long time. Maxxis always got warped, some even were warped from new, and thread pointing to the right, misaligned thread, bead failure within 4-5 months with trail to enduro style riding, and quite quickly warped even on a xc bike only used for city riding mostly. So probably best you got rid of that Maxxis anyway. I had issues with a Bontrager XR2 Team Issue once, side wall blew up standing in the a bike shop. I was unlucky with that one, probably faulty. But their Se 4 Team issue were really robust, but grip was horrible on dirt.
26:34 Grease is good, easy to remove. But for more secure pedals I use Loctite 243, I've had properly tightened pedals come loose before, but thread locker prevents this, keeps it secure for longer, even in rapid temp changes. Most axles/spindles are steel, steel has a faster thermal shrinkage than aluminium, thus the pedals can come loose in extreme sum zero temps. Same goes for the square taper steel bottom bracket, 10 mins in -10C and it's loose. But Loctite 243 solves that. But with even temps and checking the pedals often it should not be an issue I guess. But I never remove my pedals and want to keep them secure but Loctite 243 allows them to be removed if I want to, but with cranks don't overdo it, it might require whole body weight of an adult to remove. In conditions I ride in, Loctite 243 on all threads is the rule.
16:20 I find it easier and less mess to pour directly into the tyre. 21:19 I don't like that syringe, mine clogged up and hose was so stiff and kinked from new, and the kink never went away, so sealant did not want to go trough it properly, once sealant went everywhere.
ALSO! The whole " angle the brakes down" very much depends on how the rest of the bike fits and the cockpit setup.Too much down isnt good either as it will get the wrist into a very weak position.
The first thing I would upgrade on any old bike is dropper post! There is just no better and more important mtb tech that was released in mtb world. I would leave 3by system, aluminum bars, square bb, and fork but install dropper. The second upgrade would be brakes... and only then fork
Hello, Thanks for putting this video together. When your child is riding a 24" starter bike, do you put an air fork on from a larger wheeled 26" or 27.5" model and accept the geometry changes are suboptimal for 7-10 years of age vs needing to buy and rebuy front forks as they progress through wheel sizes? Also how do you get around the head tube height increasing as they go up in size resulting in a steerer tube being cut too short? Thanks. We currently have a 24" Advanti Montari JR with cable actuated discs, XCT and tourney spec drivetrain on the first "starting MTB"
You replaced the Shimano quick release front hub with a Shimano quick release front hub? Or did you just clean and reuse the old one? I would have gone with a thru axle fork and a sealed bearing hub for sure. You probably could have done it within budget if you left out the carbon handlebar.
Got a 24 in trek precaliber for my 6 yr old son who is wanting to race this summer. Would you recommend any upgrades for it or just too small to add any components to it? Thanks for any reply
How come you didn't clean the bike? I don't mean to show us how you clean it, but just why didn't you clean it before upgrading the parts? I noticed mostly at the bottom bracket part, as it looks like it would have been beneficial to have an that gunk gone before installing the new BN and cranks.
My daughter just got a new co-op xxs bike, and the cranks are the same 170mm that come on my large framed bikes. 😑 It's so dumb. That's the first upgrade.
@@johnwood2317 that was my thought. When doing this kind of a build it may not be a good idea to use the same length cranks that were on the bike already, especially if they may have been specked too long to begin with!
Jet racing 140 BMX cranks ftw. Square taper but I really don’t think it makes a difference on a kids bike. Much more important to have the fit dialled.
Long time watcher, first time caller 😂 just wanted to say your progression has been fun to watch and this video was super well done👍 👍 keep on building!!!
Thanks!
When I first started wrenching on bikes 25+ years ago I always would forget which side was reverse threaded for the bottom bracket and pedals. Finally got myself to remember by thinking spin the tool towards the front of the bike to remove the bottom bracket and reverse of that for the pedals.
6 lb weight savings will make a huge difference, especially with young/smaller riders :)
Should use carbon paste when attaching carbon to metals. Love the vid. Keep it up!! :)
Yes but trying to keep it as simple as possible for new builders. Most carbon handlebars come with grittier texture where connection points are, these days and don't require it.
15:21 Tip for tricky tubeless tape: use a rag or microfiber towel or old towel, what ever, slide it on top, it slides better than your fingers, so you can get the tape completely on the rim,, no air bubbles, if you get air bubbles they will burst and it will leak. This is an issue with Stan's Notubes tape used in this video, so this method works well, and the bubbles seen in this vid won't happen. The thumb sticks to this tape so well it's tricky but the rag or towel will make it much easier.
Great video.
Something I've been doing for years is taking tired bikes and bringing them up to date and ride worthy.
Just a little tip ..
You say you're taking off a suntour xcm but it's actually an xc30 or Judy coil from rockshox.
You can swap out the coil for the air cartridge from the parts catalogue and save a fortune on these forks by converting them to air rather than replacing.
Also brings the weight down as you're making it silver air spec.
That's brilliant. Thanks for the tip
This is a great video and beneficial for many parents! With a 5 year old I had the same “problems” and came to the same solutions. Up to the tire size of 20 inches tubeless rims a not very common, especially on used bikes. Depending on your type of terrain, lightweight tubes like tubolito might be an option there. If you’re a serious MTBer you probably have a parts bin with (not so) old, but very good components, which you can give to your kids!
Tru tension tyre lever is insane really good with tubleless aswell because it has the beading side, nice build 👍🏻
Very cool. I'll give them a try
I don't use the plunger anymore when filling sealant. I seat the bead dry. Remove core, screw onto valve body, pinch hose, and then dump Stans to desired level. I don't have any drips or mess now other than rinsing the syringe. If you squeeze the tire you may push air/sealant out of the tire. In about a dozen tires I haven't done that yet though.
21:34 Get a longer cassette lock ring tool for better leverage. Instead of a chain whip I prefer to use Pedros Vise Whip II, it's like vise grips but for the cogs, the handle size stays the same no matter the cog size, nice rounded handle. it's fool proof, easy to work with, not as quick, but less likely to mess up.
I bought two in case I work on stuck multi piece cog cassettes, then I can could wiggle and rotate them until they come off piece by piece, no hammering needed, but not tried it yet.
13:13 I agree adjust once the rider is on the bike. But I have a some things to add:
The angle depends on the cockpit height, reach, longer the reach higher the bar, flatter the brakes can be angled, I like mine flat or there about, if the bike has too short reach and cockpit way too low you are forced to use a steeper angle to not kink the wrists, but your hand will be fatigued, and increased chance of arm pump, but if the opposite is true, there hands can rest on the grip, and levers be about flat.
I've seen kids ride with brakes almost vertical, or almost flat, barely reaching the levers or not at all without twisting hands, or flat so they kink the wrist, also reach adjustment is a common mistake, not adjusting it, also overtightening the clamp to insane torque, but this is also done by summer temporary workers in sports stores, resulting in bent brake levers.
If the rider spends most of the time on the rear wheel steeper angle is suitable, like trails riders do. Otherwise it's somewhere between flat and 45 deg, but even so 45 deg, I think bike doesn't fit that well if this suits the rider.
22:27 In my experience they come loose eventually, so I use Loctite 243 to prevent it, it helps to keep it secure for longer, in my experience without, just grease it comes loose faster. even tightened hard as always. If you hear a creak from the rear it might be cus fo that. I only apply a bit, no need to overdo it. Also I found the SunRace lock rings to round off eventually. I recommend to keep spares, never throw away the lock rings, spacers.
It seems mtbboy1993 LOVES commenting on this video
😂😂
One of the most satisfying part of the video was when you released the dork disk. Ahhh sooooo goood!!! 😂 😅😅😅
The chain will bring home half the mountain :DDD
I found the bead to be good on Bontrager tyres, some models have rubber that wears out in just 4 weeks, like the XR3 Expert, some last long time.
Maxxis always got warped, some even were warped from new, and thread pointing to the right, misaligned thread, bead failure within 4-5 months with trail to enduro style riding, and quite quickly warped even on a xc bike only used for city riding mostly. So probably best you got rid of that Maxxis anyway.
I had issues with a Bontrager XR2 Team Issue once, side wall blew up standing in the a bike shop. I was unlucky with that one, probably faulty. But their Se 4 Team issue were really robust, but grip was horrible on dirt.
I would choose a thru axle fork as you decided to change the hub either way
If it wasn't for the incredible deal on the fork my customer wanted, I would agree
Wow. Nice bike.
26:34 Grease is good, easy to remove. But for more secure pedals I use Loctite 243, I've had properly tightened pedals come loose before, but thread locker prevents this, keeps it secure for longer, even in rapid temp changes.
Most axles/spindles are steel, steel has a faster thermal shrinkage than aluminium, thus the pedals can come loose in extreme sum zero temps. Same goes for the square taper steel bottom bracket, 10 mins in -10C and it's loose. But Loctite 243 solves that.
But with even temps and checking the pedals often it should not be an issue I guess. But I never remove my pedals and want to keep them secure but Loctite 243 allows them to be removed if I want to, but with cranks don't overdo it, it might require whole body weight of an adult to remove. In conditions I ride in, Loctite 243 on all threads is the rule.
16:20 I find it easier and less mess to pour directly into the tyre.
21:19 I don't like that syringe, mine clogged up and hose was so stiff and kinked from new, and the kink never went away, so sealant did not want to go trough it properly, once sealant went everywhere.
ALSO! The whole " angle the brakes down" very much depends on how the rest of the bike fits and the cockpit setup.Too much down isnt good either as it will get the wrist into a very weak position.
The first thing I would upgrade on any old bike is dropper post! There is just no better and more important mtb tech that was released in mtb world. I would leave 3by system, aluminum bars, square bb, and fork but install dropper. The second upgrade would be brakes... and only then fork
Depends on what you ride. For XC racing? not so much.
Strangely soothing
Hello,
Thanks for putting this video together.
When your child is riding a 24" starter bike, do you put an air fork on from a larger wheeled 26" or 27.5" model and accept the geometry changes are suboptimal for 7-10 years of age vs needing to buy and rebuy front forks as they progress through wheel sizes?
Also how do you get around the head tube height increasing as they go up in size resulting in a steerer tube being cut too short?
Thanks. We currently have a 24" Advanti Montari JR with cable actuated discs, XCT and tourney spec drivetrain on the first "starting MTB"
25:34 The most common terms are cable pulley or shift cable pulley.
10:20 I prefer to use a compression plug, as it's reusable, easier to install.
Thanks for the video 👍
You bet
You replaced the Shimano quick release front hub with a Shimano quick release front hub? Or did you just clean and reuse the old one? I would have gone with a thru axle fork and a sealed bearing hub for sure. You probably could have done it within budget if you left out the carbon handlebar.
Certainly a thru axle would be preferred. But as I mentioned, that fork was on sale for an incredible deal which matched with my customer's budget.
Got a 24 in trek precaliber for my 6 yr old son who is wanting to race this summer. Would you recommend any upgrades for it or just too small to add any components to it? Thanks for any reply
You can do pretty much all these same upgrades to a 24 inch bike too.
How come you didn't clean the bike? I don't mean to show us how you clean it, but just why didn't you clean it before upgrading the parts?
I noticed mostly at the bottom bracket part, as it looks like it would have been beneficial to have an that gunk gone before installing the new BN and cranks.
I did. Look at the final shots
Would that headset fit a giant talon 2, ?
I believe so
I wouldn't put the san quentin in the same category as these bikes since it's geo is very agressive and wouldn't really be a good xc bike
How long are those cranks?
My daughter just got a new co-op xxs bike, and the cranks are the same 170mm that come on my large framed bikes. 😑 It's so dumb. That's the first upgrade.
@@johnwood2317 that was my thought. When doing this kind of a build it may not be a good idea to use the same length cranks that were on the bike already, especially if they may have been specked too long to begin with!
If you can find affordable cranks shorter than 175, that's great. Since the short crank movement began, my suppliers have been constantly sold out
Jet racing 140 BMX cranks ftw. Square taper but I really don’t think it makes a difference on a kids bike. Much more important to have the fit dialled.
Your kids bike had nicer parts on than mine
Not my kid