That was great,,,"wood Butcher" I havent heard that since I was called one back in the 80`s,,,,(which i wasnt) And retire as a Master Trim &Cabinet maker
Maybe it's just me, but I had figured most of this stuff out myself. A couple other tidbits he didn't mention are, when entering the cut, I manually lift the blade guard, until the guard is on top of the work, so "bumping" the guard against the work doesn't cause a wiggle at the entry. The biggest thing is, I guide the front of the saw with my thumb on the side of the shoe...and yes, I still have all my fingers. This gives the front more stability when super straight cuts are needed. I ripped down a couple old solid wood doors, free hand, for my son's house this weekend. I don't think we could have cut them much straighter on a table saw without a BIG table.
@@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote these are some key things imo that should have been added to the video👍. I do the exact same thing when cutting kitchen counters, doors etc freehand. Its funny that I also had to figure that out for myself just like you😁. The only thing people told me about freehand cutting as an apprentice carpenter was to watch the blade/teeth instead of the guide. It would have helped me tremendously if I had been given these pointers at that time.
agreed. using a circ saw since 1979. i'd say though, when cutting a short(er) freehand line, set up with two hands on the saw and do not use your arms - position yourself so you can bend at the waist while your arms are locked in position. it's the only way it works for me. and don't even try a long freehand, it won't work.
I read that wrong, I thought he was saying literally before HE was born I was going to ask if it was a self C-section. I probably bought my circular saw before he was born.
Great stuff! You can't have a straight line without 2 points of reference and you demonstrated that perfectly in order to get the saw tracking right. Even with hand saws, your first 10 strokes are vital when it comes to getting a straight cut all the way down. Great explanation :)
The idea of not just looking at the saw blade, but looking ahead a few inches also to make sure I’m in line was really a game changer for me when cutting ceramic tiles with a wet saw table. I could suddenly cut easier and straighter when before I was very frustrated at how crooked my cuts were.
THANK YOU ! I have been using circular saws for over fifty years. I gave up on trying to get accurate cuts about 45 years ago and have only been using them for rough cuts ever since. I would always get screwed up as to where to line up the notch, and then would have trouble keeping the saw in line with my pencil mark. That ruler trick set off the proverbial light bulb in my head. Thank you and wish me luck on my next saw cutting endeavour.
@@teedachosenone6815 I gave up on chasing the newest and best technology a long time ago. Ever since I realized that manufacturers are playing us into buying something we already had by timing new releases of tech. Or worse yet cordless tools where you have to replace the battery ever once in a while. I'm in most cases still using tools that I bought thirty or forty years ago. That leaves a lot of cash left over.
I started this video thinking you were going to tell me I've been doing it wrong. It's a good tip, but I have always done it that way because it just makes sense to me. Lining up the blade and the front of saw with your cut gives better accuracy cause you are aiming with 2 points. It's like rifle sights. The farther the two aiming points are apart, the more accurate you can be.
Thanks. Good and simple video. I liked the technique of lining up the Blade with a ruler to see where the front marker really fell. Ive seen some that were way off. I like to extend my cut lines well beyond the point where the cut stops, farther than you did, so I can use them to guide completely through the whole cut..
For me cutting along the straight line was always a struggle until I checked a few things. If a straight line feels like a struggle check the straight line mark at the back of your blade and where the rear of the blade and the mark are relative to the drawn line and your technique. Also check pinching from wood compression or lack of support. A pinched blade can force the cut off course. Technique includes overreaching, a poor or uncomfortable standing position, and a slanted view of the cut line. In addition to your great tips marking and checking the lineup and bevel at the start of each day (and after each oops/drop of the saw) this weekend guy learned these and so many more from a lifelong carpenter and framer. Thanks for your great tips and quality videos.
Great tip on using a straight edge on checking blade lineup to notched indicators. Need to do one for 45 angle cut with a circular base plate notches. I have used saws with the notch slightly off. Never thought of using a straight edge. Nice!
I've had to go so far as to invest in a straight-edge, a sharpie, and some clear nail polish for the 45... Set up the saw appropriately and then use the straight-edge to align with the teeth. They can be upwards of a 32nd to the side of the body of the blade... When you compare to your notch, use the sharpie for any necessary corrections on the very edge of the base plate... THEN you can flip the saw to put the line where you NEED it. A stroke of nail-polish will act like urethane clear coat (I happen to love Covergirl for the life-span vs. price) so it won't rub right off again... Try a test-cut to confirm it, of course... AND the clear polish will be dry usually in about 10 - 20 minutes or so, even less on a hot day outside. At least, so far... that's been my favorite method... AND it works on "cheap-o" saws that are really off for the "general purpose" cuts, too... (Thanks China)... ;o)
Great advice as always. Knowing the thickness of the blade is critical. Right vs left side cuts can therefore be different, in case exact matching is critical. Awesome tip with the ruler. I’ve now scored the other side of the blade on the leading edge of the guide.
That's what I do on my table saw, I measure from the edge of a tooth to my fence or if I have a line I put the edge of one of the teeth exactly on the outside of the line. So far I get perfect accuracy when doing that
--- he made both cuts with the blade to the right of the line meaning he took one line and left one line - if blade width was critical he should have cut the top line after cutting the right line, then flipped the piece 180 and cut the former left line which would now be on the right
Something I do right before I pull the trigger is instead of backing the blade up a smidge, I will just tip the saw slightly forward so I don’t lose my spot, then pull the trigger and rock the saw back flat. If I want to be really precise, I’ll exaggerate that motion and plunge-cut the first bit. This is also a good technique for cutting a bunch of random blocks of 2x4s or 2x6s that you don’t need to necessarily measure but want a square cut. You just tilt the saw forward, lift the guard and line the front of the fence(which is a straight line) with the other side of the work piece, then plunge cut. It’s helps you make fast cuts.
That ruler tip makes so much sense it’s no wonder I never thought to do it. The notches in the guide have always been a mystery to me. And of course if you line up the notch with the line, you have to know if the blade is to the inside or the outside of the notch.
@@kimloy8019 Basic common sense that was not explained in this video for beginners lol... you have to humble yourself to somebody who has never picked up a saw before... try it sometime, you might become a happier person overall. Have a nice day!
@@MV-wb2cz HUMBLE MY SELF. NOT A chance Peasant. Now we will be doing advance bullshitery and douchebaggery I can't take the time to share it with you as this is the first lesson. Wait I think I might have just share it with you. HMm now i'm contradicting myself and seemingly being humble about it. Darn you chance You've taken this moment to teach me and I am appalled.
Very handy tip. Thank you! When it comes to circular saws, table saws etc., I am paranoid about safety, kickback, etc., so absorb a lot of these videos in advance.
Then don’t follow his advice to nudge the saw back a little. That can easily go bad, once you’ve started cutting you need to commit. I find that good posture and positioning of yourself makes a world of difference.
Also don't use your finger as a guide as he did. Don't get your hand anywhere near that blade. Skilsaw, table saw, and cut-off wheels/grinders are the most dangerous tools.
Great point about taking a straight edge and confirming the exact relationship of the blade to the guide tick. I'll confess that I've gone years with circ saws without confirming this and just kind of allow that the margin of error will be an 1/8th. It's really not a problem for the things i'm usually cutting with a skil saw... but it's worth the effort to fix.
I learned as a shop carpenter to put the mark on the line saw rear raised up with the guard pulled up. And the blade over the work. Drop the back of the saw down and set on your line. Lift slightly, start saw and plug cut down into the work. Then move backward if necessary (try to cut to cut complete at plunge) then forward to complete the cut.
Very true, now try this. Place the cutout on the line as per the vid. Now lift the back of the saw, whilst pivoting it on the cut out/line point, until the bottom of the saw blade is level with the top of the material surface. Slide the pivot point forwards, along the line, until the blade is an 1/8 from the edge of the material. Sight along the blade to ensure you are inline with the cut you want to make. Support the pivot point with your spare hand, in a safe manor, start the saw and plunge the blade into the work piece. You know have half the saw blade smack on the line you want to cut. Works a treat every time.
you lost me at "now try this". lol. I'm just a butcher cuttin' big pieces into little pieces. If you have the time, maybe explain it a bit clearer or not. Thanks.
@@meatmaster8636: You’re not the only one, lol. I’ve been a professional carpenter and renovation contractor for decades and have no idea what this nonsense is about. I’ve learned to almost shave with a circular saw (not recommended) but I don’t have a clue what this was about. If you want a rough cut you can use the plate notch but if you want accuracy you never take your eye off the blade and the cut line and you use both hands to guide the saw, one on the trigger handle and the other on the horn. Simple as that.
@@rayray8687 Hi there, l think what he's trying to say is just basically use the _Old Piece_ as a JIG, & just run Your blade around it keeping an eye on the line of your _New Piece_ , which would be underneath, kinda like you would use a Router, . . *Disclaimer* : Interpretation & not advice..😉
I have over 35 years experience using a circular saw and your lesson is superb. I have several circular saws and my favorite remains to be my Makita 5008NB 8-1/4-Inch. One of the best saws ever made.
Thanks man! I just started doing carpentry for work and have no clue about cuts and all. You help me with this so I appreciate it. I feel more confident in myself and that makes me to have a better day
Great video on freehand steering. Couple of other points: Using the left hand on the baseplate and putting it near the blade could be a danger for the inexperienced. Worth explaining why you have a left bladed saw, I noted on the final cut you did correctly walk round the piece to keep the heavy motor above the bi to clamped to the desk which was good. Many thanks for your channel
Glad you used the right terminology: left bladed saw instead of left HANDED saw. The right bladed saws have been used for decades and IMO they are wrong right off the hop. You shouldn't have to lean over and look on the opposite side of the motor to see where you're cutting. I find it odd how the majority of cordless are left bladed and corded are right.
Hey man, I just moved into my new house with my girlfriend and we’re pretty tight on money to get guy in to do work, but these videos have helped me so much and we’ve basically done the whole place just though looking at videos on your channel. Thanks brother!
When you turn your saw upside, open the guard and start touching the blade you might want to remove the battery first. ( From a 59 years old carpenter who still has all his fingers attached.)
As a framer that is constantly using different circular saws, I recommend just watching the blade and starting your cut slowly. You can whittle a tiny "error" on the unused piece as you ease the blade in straight. Battery saws are much less powerful and demand way straighter cuts than most jobs need. 120v AC is so much better. If you really need to be precise and slow, you may as well use a table saw or a miter saw and get a laser beam cut. You often don't want those on a framing jobsite though, bulky and slow.
For framing I would never not use 120v For what he's doing in this video I just use my table saw, unless the piece is gigantic, then I do use the circular saw, but with a track/jig I made.
My Makita trim saw cuts exactly 1.5” from the left side and 3.5” from the right side. For mission critical cuts I clamp a level to the board 1.5” or 3.5” away and just butt it up to the level for perfectly straight cuts. Or just pull out the track saw.
@@chrisallen6010 Dewalt, makita, milwakee, and most higher end saws have those distances same, i think they standardised them, but alwas worth checking that to be sure.
Last I knew Your Makita doesn't have a parallel adjustment for the base (Dewalt does if memory serves correctly). So, depending on the individual saw the numbers are problematic.
I have that Makita saw. I love it. I’ve got a corded saw for the rare occasions I need to cut a bunch of 2x8’s or bigger. But that little battery saw is so convenient for the maintenance work and light building I do. I originally bought it to demolition a bedroom ceiling with two layers of drywall (due to old radiant heat loops installed between the two layers). I wanted something lightweight (because I was working over head), aggressive, and with the ability to set the depth of the cut, so I could take out 2’x3’ pieces cleanly. It was perfect for that and 99% of all the other jobs I need a circular saw for.
Hola, muy bueno tu video, gran consejo para mejorar la presicion, es algo que me cuesta mucho, gracias por el video. Esa sierra circular no trae proteccion??
Just a point to remember, the blade stock itself is narrower than the carbide teeth so use the correct side of the teeth to line up on with your straight edge, otherwise you might be off by a 32nd or so.
One tip you missed: When cutting irregularly shaped pieces, where some wood will be "waste", always mark the waste with a marking pencil. It doesn't have to be fancy, just has to let you know which part you're saving for the piece, and which will become offcuts.
I usually make a short straight line for my measurement mark, & 1 angle line from that on the kerf / cutoff side of the line. Or I'll put a small x on the cutoff side of the line. That's not just with irregular cuts, but any cut line.
Largely depends on the material - you will get varying degrees of break out. If the aesthetics of the finished cut are not critical then a single pass with the saw is normally ok. It is usual to scribe the cut line with a knife and cut up to that to minimise break out if a better finish is required. I would us the latter method and finish with the plane to guarantee the best outcome.
Useful advice on lining up the cut, thanks. If I was a 'Safety Troll' I might suggest that holding a steel rule against the blade with the saw inverted, without removing power (battery) is not good. Even worse is using your middle finger for alignment (2:43) leaving your unrestrained thumb and index finger within reach of the blade. Remember: Rust never sleeps, gravity is always waiting, and sharp tools are watching your eyes! Lucky for you I'm not a Safety Troll. :o)
Also helpful to mention is in order to reduce break out ( splintering around the saw cut) is to have minimum projection of the the saw blade so if the material you are cutting is 20mm the blade should only project 25mm below the sole plate of the saw.
As a carpenter I have never found that to be the case. Matter of fact I have found having the blade all the way down as in the video helps with making a straight cut. More blade in the wood self-aligns the saw. If you are worried about tear out or chipping depending on what you are cutting. , flip the piece over and cut from the back side. Or score the piece 1st with a utility knife and a straight edge before making the cut.
Cannot believe I never realized this “ two points” as a way to get started online….🤦🏼♂️.. also , I ever trust the plate notch, especially when using saw after a long absence or another saw I don’t use often. So I’m always using the blade to start ,move a few inches to see if tracking properly then I look to see where the notch is in relation to the blade line…the ruler method is gold . In fact I plan on doing g this on my new makita then marking the plate somehow to remind where to line up cut line ….simple, good advice right there ,Ty.
I think I had convinced myself that circular saws simply are not accurate tools so I didn’t bother learning how to use it well for the few times my work called for it. Thanks for setting me straight! 😂
Great tip. For new kids on the block, remove battery pack when working on blade/saw for extra safety. Also give the cost of 3/4” plywood, Delrin is a great and permanent alternative for your friend’s boat.
I've been using skilsaws for over 50 years. The easiest way to make accurate free hand cuts is to use a worm drive saw. (M favorite is the skil model 77). Once you learn to let the saw settle down before you start the cut and always use a sharp blade. I have cut t-111 siding for the bottom of roof overhangs and have all my grooves line up without the use of a straight edge.
Worm drives are heavy, but they have their loyal advocates. I don't like them personally, but they do have some advantages. I also think that different non-worm drive saws "drive" differently. I use a Porter-Cable contractors saw, because I like the way it "handles." I always put Makita at the bottom of the list for ergonomics, and the Skil non-worm drives seem to have blade guards that hang up sometimes when they hit the edge of thinner stock. DeWalts are OK, but just OK, and I like Milwaukees better. One problem with choosing a circular saw is the difficulty in arranging "test drives," and beginners being put off by the price of a contractor's saw. In any case, I think we can all agree on the benefits of using a sharp blade. -- At some point, a beginner might see a pro pin back the blade guard with a shim, and about half of the pros I worked with did that. But beginners shouldn't try that until they are so accustomed with using a circular saw that the mechanics of setting up a cut and following a line are automatic and second-nature, so that he can pay enough attention to the intricacies of how to put an unguarded saw down without cutting off his toes or something like that. Human attention is a limited capacity, and when one is learning new skills, most of that attention has to be focused on the basics.
@@grizzlygrizzle makita circular saws are the bomb. Used two in my 17 years as a contractor, still have both for the 6 years after for many projects around the property. 10/10 would recommend
Always wondered why my cuts were off by a little bit. So I just used your method to check the saw (skilsaw). Sure enough it was about 1/32 off. Now I know how to adjust for it!
Are you kidding...Just watch the blade..the blade is doing the cutting !...not the guide at the front.. Surely you can work this out after it doesn't work on previous cuts.There is no point in using the guide if you are not getting a cut on the line you have marked. Your comment was funny to read !
Actually, there are two notches on the front of the saw shoe, an outer notch that you pointed out and an inner notch just in front of the blade. It's much easier to line up the two notches on the cut line than watching the front notch and blade.
A couple clamps and a straight edge makes the straightest cuts with my skill 77. Been doing it for 40 years or so! I build cabinet parts for repairs using this method, cut doors and other perfect cuts using this method. One really important thing to good cuts is a really sharp blade! Of course more teeth makes for better cutting in finer use applications as I'm sure you know. And treating ones blade with care helps them last longer, staying sharp for more great cuts! Since the carbide tipped blades have become so common one doesn't have a choice in blade cutting surface angled as when we did out own sharpening as my father taught me , it's been so long since I have hand files a blade it's not funny. Couldn't find my blade set tool without some searching lol. God Bless you and what you do!
Track saw hadn't been reagily available for all that long and my 4' level an two medium clamps are handy no matter what. Plus it's great for cutting doors , the one thing that's critical, a sharp blade perhaps some masking tape and a tape measure. I know the exact distance from the short side of my saw to the inner blade edge so it's super simple and requires no bulky extra parts!
@@jasnonya3005 I've been doing the clamps for a while and measuring the distance from blade, Its 29mm but it's always out 1 or 2 mm no matter what which is frustraighting as hell I got lent a makita track saw on site and it was quicker and perfect everytime, I'm still an apprentice though, not sure what's going wrong..
@@audibleadventures9004 I've the same skill worm drive I've used for at least 30 years it's second hand and I still draw a line or scribe it with a razor knife so I can see exactly where I want my blade edge to be for that reason!
As a professional carpenter/ cabinet maker of 35 years, always use a straight guide when possible, OR cut line of sight to the blade, have good lighting when you cut. It also matters how critical the cut needs to be.
I have watched a few “cut straight with a circular saw” videos. First thanks for saying use both leading edge indicator and the blade. The others only mention the blade. Second I noticed the fingers or thumb you left hand is guiding the saw at the start. Likely so natural for you don’t even notice you do it. Great instruction, Thanks!
Thanks mate! I noticed that about my off hand watching the footage- it does seem a bit dangerous so I wasn’t going to mention it. The key there is always keep your hand in front of the blade, because a circular saw will want to kick backwards. That also why I love the little battery saws, because of there lack of power they just stall out before they will kick back.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I meant that using your left hand to stablize the front of the saw at the start of the cut was a good thing. It made me think of how when hand sawing a dove tail guiding the saw on the first stroke with your thumb makes a huge difference. In a similar way, because it is a focused, soft push moment there really is no danger. In my opinion.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I don't think that's dangerous. just like your "don't let your fingers get in front of the table saw blade" tip, just don't let your fingers get behind the circular saw...for the exact same reason.
I use a Kreg Saw guide and measure the left side from the edge to the blade and clamp the guide to the wood, this allows be to mage an 8’ cut as straight as a panel saw. I don’t have room in my home shop for a panel saw. I really enjoyed this video. We can learn something every day. Thanks I I subscribed and liked this video.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter: The real solution is to use the notch only for rough cuts. If you want accuracy, use a clamp-on straightedge cutting guide ($20.00) or follow the actual blade, not the notch.
On the first cut, isn't the blade cutting on the inside of the piece you'll be using? Shouldn't it cut outside? I mean the final piece of wood is going to be 1.5mm shorter than expected, unless you accounted for that when drawing the line. What would be the right way to avoid that?
What you show is a good tip FOR THAT situation. My critique is that there are 6 possible trajectory alignments for any cutting situation DEPENDING ON SITUATION. As a builder with a broad variety of cutting situations, one may at times need to cut to the LHS or RHS or centre of the line. And, one can be cutting with the wider saw sled on the waste or the keep side of the piece. Yes, your dual align tip is good, but some saws have a guide notch for LHS, RHS, or centre of blade tooth. Also blade teeth kerf can vary muchly (thick, thin) not always matching the notch perfectly. Life is never as simple as one YT demo.
good video. Except when my dad taught me to use a circular saw, there was significantly more cussing. I think 95% of people get that wrong, if you are not cussing, you are not cutting.
The alignment tip is great but you didn’t talk about setting the depth. You only want the teeth of the blade to just get through the thickness of the board. If you go deeper tou can bind the blade and cause it to chip out material.
You Sir, are Awesome! I never could get the hang of the circular saw. I've done table saw work for 50 years but never was good with a circular saw. When you laid the rule down next to the blade, it all made sense and I have some catching up to do because I'm 67 years old! !! ! How do you like the 18v Makita? I'm thinking of getting one to replace my 45 year old Craftsman.
Another tip is to set the blade height correctly and not have far to much blade spinning below the wood as in this video because this increases tear out.
Hi there 👋, can you pls tell me what Makita model # that is? 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 I’ve been looking for one with the blade in the left side. I have the Makita with the blade on the right. 🤷♂️ I would just like to see where I’m cutting better. Thanks you sir. 🙏🏼
When I want a truly straight cut, I take the time to set up a guide. YES, it is a little more work but the more often you set up a guide the faster you get at doing it well. If you held a straight edge along the cut, you'd see just how not straight those cuts are :-). Freehand "straight" cutting never really is, though probably 90+% of the time it is good enough.
I see a few things I would call out on this one. #1 Set the depth of cut for the material you are cutting to prevent kickback. #2 Don't depend on the guard retracting at the end of the cut - you shouldn't set the saw down on the guard after you make the cut.
I started cutting a few days ago. I wanted to “learn” so I cut simple 45 degree angles to miter 2x4s. Dude. I chewed it up. I kept trying and man it was awful. I just checked my saw and, sure enough! Great tip! Thanks!
Hey love the content. I just brought a circular saw it's a Bosch corded one but only just noticed that your blade is on the opposite side to mine is there a correct side you should use? I am right handed. I"m new to power tools.
i always get squirrely when the front guide on the base plate reaches the end of my pencil line and i then have to focus solely on the blade for the last few inches of the cut... in your example i would tweak your suggestion by extending the angled pencil lines past the cross line so i can follow the plate guide through the entire cut... i know that's not always possible when you are cutting to the end of your workpiece but maybe even butt a sacrificial piece to end of the workpiece to extend the pencil cut line?..... thanks for the great video!!
Once the blade is sunk into the work it should track straight in the kerf. He points out that it's important to start out aligned with the cut. Because if you're off track to start off with then it's harder to get on the line and your kerf won't be tight then either. If I want a straight line I use a speed square. If I really want a straight line I leave some meat off the line and plane to the line. If I really don't care then I freehand the cut.
I hate my Ryobi circular saw. The plate angle is 1/16 off of parallel to the blade angle. The laser can't be adjusted, and isn't even close to where it cuts. Anything more than a feather touch of downward pressure causes a slight miter, and the rivets can't be tightened to stop it. The cherry on top is the blade height cannot be set below a certain point, as the tightening mechanism physically cannot generate enough pressure to hold it -- I get the full blade, or half an inch, nothing in between. Any recommendations for a DIY/entry-level circular saw that doesn't suck?
Never have your hand/fingers adjacent or in front of the blade. If you look at his skilsaw you can see the handle his left hand should be on. Also the ruler should be set against the teeth not the blade to check the cut point, most blades have a kerf or welded teeth which stand proud of the blade on both sides.
I do a variation where I line the marker up well into the work and drop the blade down onto the line. That gives me a cut blade length at the beginning that's perfectly straight and stops the small wobble we can do sometimes that binds the blade up and can heat and warp it, which makes it really hard to be straight after that. Or a thick blade that won't warp is good too lol.
Now this is how a truly seasoned and experienced professional cut guy does it! Its the only way to be both quick and accurate. I rarely start off the work unless im cutting something short like cripples or studs...sheet goods are always line up, plunge, and go.
I am thinking of purchasing a jigsaw or a circular saw, good thing I have been on this video and learnt that I need the circular saw because I am more of a straight cutter than a curve cutter
I tried this when cutting a piece for a small cargo sled I am making. It doesnt work for that project guys. Only use this method for framing, cutting subfloors (inside), or replacement boat transoms(only for your friends boats) If you cut anything else(especially for personal use), be sure to use a guide to insure a nice straight cut. This guy really knows the projects this works best on.
When I bought my saw and started making cuts the thing you showed here turned out to be absolutely intuitive.
As a casual wood butcher (can't call myself a wood worker lol), little tips like this are priceless. Thanks!
This is not "little" tips this is (SPARTAAAAA) paid type content
That was great,,,"wood Butcher" I havent heard that since I was called one back in the 80`s,,,,(which i wasnt) And retire as a Master Trim &Cabinet maker
I've used a circular saw since LITERALLY before you were born, and THAT was a great tip. Thank you. Thumbs up!
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Maybe it's just me, but I had figured most of this stuff out myself. A couple other tidbits he didn't mention are, when entering the cut, I manually lift the blade guard, until the guard is on top of the work, so "bumping" the guard against the work doesn't cause a wiggle at the entry. The biggest thing is, I guide the front of the saw with my thumb on the side of the shoe...and yes, I still have all my fingers. This gives the front more stability when super straight cuts are needed. I ripped down a couple old solid wood doors, free hand, for my son's house this weekend. I don't think we could have cut them much straighter on a table saw without a BIG table.
@@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote these are some key things imo that should have been added to the video👍. I do the exact same thing when cutting kitchen counters, doors etc freehand. Its funny that I also had to figure that out for myself just like you😁. The only thing people told me about freehand cutting as an apprentice carpenter was to watch the blade/teeth instead of the guide. It would have helped me tremendously if I had been given these pointers at that time.
agreed. using a circ saw since 1979. i'd say though, when cutting a short(er) freehand line, set up with two hands on the saw and do not use your arms - position yourself so you can bend at the waist while your arms are locked in position. it's the only way it works for me. and don't even try a long freehand, it won't work.
I read that wrong, I thought he was saying literally before HE was born I was going to ask if it was a self C-section.
I probably bought my circular saw before he was born.
Great stuff! You can't have a straight line without 2 points of reference and you demonstrated that perfectly in order to get the saw tracking right. Even with hand saws, your first 10 strokes are vital when it comes to getting a straight cut all the way down. Great explanation :)
The idea of not just looking at the saw blade, but looking ahead a few inches also to make sure I’m in line was really a game changer for me when cutting ceramic tiles with a wet saw table. I could suddenly cut easier and straighter when before I was very frustrated at how crooked my cuts were.
THANK YOU ! I have been using circular saws for over fifty years. I gave up on trying to get accurate cuts about 45 years ago and have only been using them for rough cuts ever since. I would always get screwed up as to where to line up the notch, and then would have trouble keeping the saw in line with my pencil mark. That ruler trick set off the proverbial light bulb in my head. Thank you and wish me luck on my next saw cutting endeavour.
just what the blade .... that is all you need to do ... except hold the the saw steady
The new saws have lasers now almost impossible to mess up with the laser
@@teedachosenone6815 I gave up on chasing the newest and best technology a long time ago. Ever since I realized that manufacturers are playing us into buying something we already had by timing new releases of tech. Or worse yet cordless tools where you have to replace the battery ever once in a while. I'm in most cases still using tools that I bought thirty or forty years ago. That leaves a lot of cash left over.
Need luck if you've used for 45 yes. Can't get straight cut😅
@@PaulARGO-r5m A circular saw is not the only tool out there designed to cut wood.
I started this video thinking you were going to tell me I've been doing it wrong. It's a good tip, but I have always done it that way because it just makes sense to me. Lining up the blade and the front of saw with your cut gives better accuracy cause you are aiming with 2 points. It's like rifle sights. The farther the two aiming points are apart, the more accurate you can be.
Thanks. Good and simple video. I liked the technique of lining up the Blade with a ruler to see where the front marker really fell. Ive seen some that were way off. I like to extend my cut lines well beyond the point where the cut stops, farther than you did, so I can use them to guide completely through the whole cut..
Great tip and appreciate the advice, I’m horrible at free cutting without a fence guide and angled cuts are a nightmare for me. Thanks
I been using a saw for many years. Had two accidents, now have one funny finger. Which compelled me to watch.
Good advice man! Thanks.
For me cutting along the straight line was always a struggle until I checked a few things. If a straight line feels like a struggle check the straight line mark at the back of your blade and where the rear of the blade and the mark are relative to the drawn line and your technique. Also check pinching from wood compression or lack of support. A pinched blade can force the cut off course. Technique includes overreaching, a poor or uncomfortable standing position, and a slanted view of the cut line. In addition to your great tips marking and checking the lineup and bevel at the start of each day (and after each oops/drop of the saw) this weekend guy learned these and so many more from a lifelong carpenter and framer.
Thanks for your great tips and quality videos.
Great tip on using a straight edge on checking blade lineup to notched indicators. Need to do one for 45 angle cut with a circular base plate notches. I have used saws with the notch slightly off. Never thought of using a straight edge. Nice!
I've had to go so far as to invest in a straight-edge, a sharpie, and some clear nail polish for the 45... Set up the saw appropriately and then use the straight-edge to align with the teeth. They can be upwards of a 32nd to the side of the body of the blade... When you compare to your notch, use the sharpie for any necessary corrections on the very edge of the base plate... THEN you can flip the saw to put the line where you NEED it. A stroke of nail-polish will act like urethane clear coat (I happen to love Covergirl for the life-span vs. price) so it won't rub right off again... Try a test-cut to confirm it, of course... AND the clear polish will be dry usually in about 10 - 20 minutes or so, even less on a hot day outside.
At least, so far... that's been my favorite method... AND it works on "cheap-o" saws that are really off for the "general purpose" cuts, too... (Thanks China)... ;o)
The 45 cuts' variation from the notch is somewhat dependent on the width of the blade.
Great advice as always. Knowing the thickness of the blade is critical. Right vs left side cuts can therefore be different, in case exact matching is critical. Awesome tip with the ruler. I’ve now scored the other side of the blade on the leading edge of the guide.
That's what I do on my table saw, I measure from the edge of a tooth to my fence or if I have a line I put the edge of one of the teeth exactly on the outside of the line. So far I get perfect accuracy when doing that
--- he made both cuts with the blade to the right of the line meaning he took one line and left one line - if blade width was critical he should have cut the top line after cutting the right line, then flipped the piece 180 and cut the former left line which would now be on the right
Something I do right before I pull the trigger is instead of backing the blade up a smidge, I will just tip the saw slightly forward so I don’t lose my spot, then pull the trigger and rock the saw back flat. If I want to be really precise, I’ll exaggerate that motion and plunge-cut the first bit. This is also a good technique for cutting a bunch of random blocks of 2x4s or 2x6s that you don’t need to necessarily measure but want a square cut. You just tilt the saw forward, lift the guard and line the front of the fence(which is a straight line) with the other side of the work piece, then plunge cut. It’s helps you make fast cuts.
That ruler tip makes so much sense it’s no wonder I never thought to do it. The notches in the guide have always been a mystery to me. And of course if you line up the notch with the line, you have to know if the blade is to the inside or the outside of the notch.
This is basic common sense, marking which side of the line to cut.
@@kimloy8019 Basic common sense that was not explained in this video for beginners lol... you have to humble yourself to somebody who has never picked up a saw before... try it sometime, you might become a happier person overall. Have a nice day!
@@MV-wb2cz HUMBLE MY SELF. NOT A chance Peasant. Now we will be doing advance bullshitery and douchebaggery I can't take the time to share it with you as this is the first lesson. Wait I think I might have just share it with you. HMm now i'm contradicting myself and seemingly being humble about it.
Darn you chance You've taken this moment to teach me and I am appalled.
@@kimloy8019Ya know, common sense ain’t that common… unfortunately!
Very handy tip. Thank you! When it comes to circular saws, table saws etc., I am paranoid about safety, kickback, etc., so absorb a lot of these videos in advance.
Then don’t follow his advice to nudge the saw back a little. That can easily go bad, once you’ve started cutting you need to commit.
I find that good posture and positioning of yourself makes a world of difference.
Also don't use your finger as a guide as he did. Don't get your hand anywhere near that blade. Skilsaw, table saw, and cut-off wheels/grinders are the most dangerous tools.
Great point about taking a straight edge and confirming the exact relationship of the blade to the guide tick. I'll confess that I've gone years with circ saws without confirming this and just kind of allow that the margin of error will be an 1/8th. It's really not a problem for the things i'm usually cutting with a skil saw... but it's worth the effort to fix.
I learned as a shop carpenter to put the mark on the line saw rear raised up with the guard pulled up. And the blade over the work. Drop the back of the saw down and set on your line. Lift slightly, start saw and plug cut down into the work. Then move backward if necessary (try to cut to cut complete at plunge) then forward to complete the cut.
Very true, now try this. Place the cutout on the line as per the vid. Now lift the back of the saw, whilst pivoting it on the cut out/line point, until the bottom of the saw blade is level with the top of the material surface. Slide the pivot point forwards, along the line, until the blade is an 1/8 from the edge of the material. Sight along the blade to ensure you are inline with the cut you want to make. Support the pivot point with your spare hand, in a safe manor, start the saw and plunge the blade into the work piece. You know have half the saw blade smack on the line you want to cut. Works a treat every time.
you lost me at "now try this". lol. I'm just a butcher cuttin' big pieces into little pieces. If you have the time, maybe explain it a bit clearer or not. Thanks.
@@meatmaster8636: You’re not the only one, lol. I’ve been a professional carpenter and renovation contractor for decades and have no idea what this nonsense is about. I’ve learned to almost shave with a circular saw (not recommended) but I don’t have a clue what this was about. If you want a rough cut you can use the plate notch but if you want accuracy you never take your eye off the blade and the cut line and you use both hands to guide the saw, one on the trigger handle and the other on the horn. Simple as that.
@@meatmaster8636 Sounds like he's saying not to start the cut on the edge of the board but to start with a plunge cut.
@@rayray8687 Hi there, l think what he's trying to say is just basically use the _Old Piece_ as a JIG, & just run Your blade around it keeping an eye on the line of your _New Piece_ , which would be underneath, kinda like you would use a Router, . .
*Disclaimer* : Interpretation & not advice..😉
@@stonerlokz: I think maybe you’re right but then some people can complicate a one-ticket raffle, lol.
I have over 35 years experience using a circular saw and your lesson is superb. I have several circular saws and my favorite remains to be my Makita 5008NB 8-1/4-Inch. One of the best saws ever made.
NO ONE and I mean NO ONE asked for your opinion as to what saw is best. Please keep it to yourself ! ! !
Thank you @hootinouts for telling us your saw preference. I'm about to buy a used Makita and you positively influenced my choice.
Love from Montréal
It’s like the rear and front sights of a rifle, you need to use both to go straight. Good explaination👍
Thanks man! I just started doing carpentry for work and have no clue about cuts and all. You help me with this so I appreciate it. I feel more confident in myself and that makes me to have a better day
Great video on freehand steering. Couple of other points: Using the left hand on the baseplate and putting it near the blade could be a danger for the inexperienced. Worth explaining why you have a left bladed saw, I noted on the final cut you did correctly walk round the piece to keep the heavy motor above the bi to clamped to the desk which was good. Many thanks for your channel
Glad you used the right terminology: left bladed saw instead of left HANDED saw. The right bladed saws have been used for decades and IMO they are wrong right off the hop. You shouldn't have to lean over and look on the opposite side of the motor to see where you're cutting. I find it odd how the majority of cordless are left bladed and corded are right.
Weren't the old heavy worm drive saws all left blade?
@@muskokamike127 Think it's a size thing. The smaller ones (easier to hold on to) are left bladed for good visibility (and poor holding)
Yes and Still are@@robs1852
I have both corded saws,,,1 leftblade motor and 1 right@@muskokamike127
Hey man, I just moved into my new house with my girlfriend and we’re pretty tight on money to get guy in to do work, but these videos have helped me so much and we’ve basically done the whole place just though looking at videos on your channel. Thanks brother!
That’s awesome Sam, I’m happy the videos have helped! Best wishes
When you turn your saw upside, open the guard and start touching the blade you might want to remove the battery first. ( From a 59 years old carpenter who still has all his fingers attached.)
Best explanation I have seen of how to line up a cut and you didn't take 20 minutes to do it either. 🙂 Thank you!
@Hello there, how are you doing this blessed day?
We enjoy seeing your work and we are happy to see and support our channel ...💙
Nice and simple. Thanks for the tip about the straight edge; I never thought of that.
All these (many) years I mistakenly Ass-umed the line on the saw matched the blade! Great tip! And thanks for wearing ear & eye protection!
As a framer that is constantly using different circular saws, I recommend just watching the blade and starting your cut slowly. You can whittle a tiny "error" on the unused piece as you ease the blade in straight. Battery saws are much less powerful and demand way straighter cuts than most jobs need. 120v AC is so much better. If you really need to be precise and slow, you may as well use a table saw or a miter saw and get a laser beam cut. You often don't want those on a framing jobsite though, bulky and slow.
For framing I would never not use 120v
For what he's doing in this video I just use my table saw, unless the piece is gigantic, then I do use the circular saw, but with a track/jig I made.
@@KuntaKinteToby you would never use a 120v? Most other people do. A table saw would be a pain tfd the ass for this. This method is far superior.
My Makita trim saw cuts exactly 1.5” from the left side and 3.5” from the right side. For mission critical cuts I clamp a level to the board 1.5” or 3.5” away and just butt it up to the level for perfectly straight cuts. Or just pull out the track saw.
I need to check those distances out on my Makita. I've built a saw sled for it but it's just too big for most cuts to be practical.
@@chrisallen6010 Dewalt, makita, milwakee, and most higher end saws have those distances same, i think they standardised them, but alwas worth checking that to be sure.
Last I knew Your Makita doesn't have a parallel adjustment for the base (Dewalt does if memory serves correctly). So, depending on the individual saw the numbers are problematic.
I have that Makita saw. I love it. I’ve got a corded saw for the rare occasions I need to cut a bunch of 2x8’s or bigger. But that little battery saw is so convenient for the maintenance work and light building I do. I originally bought it to demolition a bedroom ceiling with two layers of drywall (due to old radiant heat loops installed between the two layers). I wanted something lightweight (because I was working over head), aggressive, and with the ability to set the depth of the cut, so I could take out 2’x3’ pieces cleanly. It was perfect for that and 99% of all the other jobs I need a circular saw for.
Hola, muy bueno tu video, gran consejo para mejorar la presicion, es algo que me cuesta mucho, gracias por el video. Esa sierra circular no trae proteccion??
Just a point to remember, the blade stock itself is narrower than the carbide teeth so use the correct side of the teeth to line up on with your straight edge, otherwise you might be off by a 32nd or so.
no one expects that kind of precision with a handheld circular saw
@@xl000 Craftsmen do.
That is the kerf? Correct? I’m learning :)
@BELIEVE in JESUS Are you feeling alright? 😂
You are so correct
As someone who typically does scrollwork with a circular saw this was immensely helpful.
@Hello there, how are you doing this blessed day?
One tip you missed: When cutting irregularly shaped pieces, where some wood will be "waste", always mark the waste with a marking pencil. It doesn't have to be fancy, just has to let you know which part you're saving for the piece, and which will become offcuts.
I usually make a short straight line for my measurement mark, & 1 angle line from that on the kerf / cutoff side of the line. Or I'll put a small x on the cutoff side of the line. That's not just with irregular cuts, but any cut line.
Largely depends on the material - you will get varying degrees of break out.
If the aesthetics of the finished cut are not critical then a single pass with the saw is normally ok. It is usual to scribe the cut line with a knife and cut up to that to minimise break out if a better finish is required.
I would us the latter method and finish with the plane to guarantee the best outcome.
Useful advice on lining up the cut, thanks. If I was a 'Safety Troll' I might suggest that holding a steel rule against the blade with the saw inverted, without removing power (battery) is not good. Even worse is using your middle finger for alignment (2:43) leaving your unrestrained thumb and index finger within reach of the blade. Remember: Rust never sleeps, gravity is always waiting, and sharp tools are watching your eyes!
Lucky for you I'm not a Safety Troll. :o)
That's a lot of words to say that the guy is a hack. The guy probably built a few bird houses and now he thinks he's an a youtube expert Carpenter
You forgot to mention that saws and other tools also hold grudges for non use, the longer you don't use them the more often they bite you. lol
Thank you for teaching the next generation!
Also helpful to mention is in order to reduce break out ( splintering around the saw cut) is to have minimum projection of the the saw blade so if the material you are cutting is 20mm the blade should only project 25mm below the sole plate of the saw.
It's also easier to use setting the correct depth.
As a carpenter I have never found that to be the case. Matter of fact I have found having the blade all the way down as in the video helps with making a straight cut. More blade in the wood self-aligns the saw. If you are worried about tear out or chipping depending on what you are cutting. , flip the piece over and cut from the back side. Or score the piece 1st with a utility knife and a straight edge before making the cut.
Cannot believe I never realized this “ two points” as a way to get started online….🤦🏼♂️.. also , I ever trust the plate notch, especially when using saw after a long absence or another saw I don’t use often. So I’m always using the blade to start ,move a few inches to see if tracking properly then I look to see where the notch is in relation to the blade line…the ruler method is gold . In fact I plan on doing g this on my new makita then marking the plate somehow to remind where to line up cut line ….simple, good advice right there ,Ty.
Thanks for the tips dude, sometimes I don't know how I overlooked some of these but I'm glad guys like you are out there showing them to people.
I think I had convinced myself that circular saws simply are not accurate tools so I didn’t bother learning how to use it well for the few times my work called for it. Thanks for setting me straight! 😂
Great tip. For new kids on the block, remove battery pack when working on blade/saw for extra safety.
Also give the cost of 3/4” plywood, Delrin is a great and permanent alternative for your friend’s boat.
Seen that straight away and winced, u wouldn’t do it with a mains tool so why different with a battery? Decent video though.
Do you have a video showing how align the blade on makita saw
I've been using skilsaws for over 50 years. The easiest way to make accurate free hand cuts is to use a worm drive saw. (M favorite is the skil model 77). Once you learn to let the saw settle down before you start the cut and always use a sharp blade. I have cut t-111 siding for the bottom of roof overhangs and have all my grooves line up without the use of a straight edge.
Worm drives are heavy, but they have their loyal advocates. I don't like them personally, but they do have some advantages. I also think that different non-worm drive saws "drive" differently. I use a Porter-Cable contractors saw, because I like the way it "handles." I always put Makita at the bottom of the list for ergonomics, and the Skil non-worm drives seem to have blade guards that hang up sometimes when they hit the edge of thinner stock. DeWalts are OK, but just OK, and I like Milwaukees better. One problem with choosing a circular saw is the difficulty in arranging "test drives," and beginners being put off by the price of a contractor's saw. In any case, I think we can all agree on the benefits of using a sharp blade.
-- At some point, a beginner might see a pro pin back the blade guard with a shim, and about half of the pros I worked with did that. But beginners shouldn't try that until they are so accustomed with using a circular saw that the mechanics of setting up a cut and following a line are automatic and second-nature, so that he can pay enough attention to the intricacies of how to put an unguarded saw down without cutting off his toes or something like that. Human attention is a limited capacity, and when one is learning new skills, most of that attention has to be focused on the basics.
@@grizzlygrizzle makita circular saws are the bomb. Used two in my 17 years as a contractor, still have both for the 6 years after for many projects around the property. 10/10 would recommend
For beginners like me a straightedge and two wood clamps will also help guide your so nicely.
Always wondered why my cuts were off by a little bit. So I just used your method to check the saw (skilsaw). Sure enough it was about 1/32 off. Now I know how to adjust for it!
Are you kidding...Just watch the blade..the blade is doing the cutting !...not the guide at the front.. Surely you can work this out after it doesn't work on previous cuts.There is no point in using the guide if you are not getting a cut on the line you have marked. Your comment was funny to read !
I am in awe of anyone who can cut a straight line
Actually, there are two notches on the front of the saw shoe, an outer notch that you pointed out and an inner notch just in front of the blade. It's much easier to line up the two notches on the cut line than watching the front notch and blade.
The second notch is how you line up for a 45
Thanks for the tips, and I will get a smaller saw for more precise cuts.
You could also mention blade depth. makes a better cut and safer.
Indeed. As a good practice i keep my depth about half a tooth coming out the other side.
A couple clamps and a straight edge makes the straightest cuts with my skill 77. Been doing it for 40 years or so! I build cabinet parts for repairs using this method, cut doors and other perfect cuts using this method. One really important thing to good cuts is a really sharp blade! Of course more teeth makes for better cutting in finer use applications as I'm sure you know. And treating ones blade with care helps them last longer, staying sharp for more great cuts! Since the carbide tipped blades have become so common one doesn't have a choice in blade cutting surface angled as when we did out own sharpening as my father taught me , it's been so long since I have hand files a blade it's not funny. Couldn't find my blade set tool without some searching lol. God Bless you and what you do!
Not find a track saw quicker and more accurate?
Track saw hadn't been reagily available for all that long and my 4' level an two medium clamps are handy no matter what. Plus it's great for cutting doors , the one thing that's critical, a sharp blade perhaps some masking tape and a tape measure.
I know the exact distance from the short side of my saw to the inner blade edge so it's super simple and requires no bulky extra parts!
@@jasnonya3005 I've been doing the clamps for a while and measuring the distance from blade, Its 29mm but it's always out 1 or 2 mm no matter what which is frustraighting as hell I got lent a makita track saw on site and it was quicker and perfect everytime, I'm still an apprentice though, not sure what's going wrong..
@@audibleadventures9004 I've the same skill worm drive I've used for at least 30 years it's second hand and I still draw a line or scribe it with a razor knife so I can see exactly where I want my blade edge to be for that reason!
As a professional carpenter/ cabinet maker of 35 years, always use a straight guide when possible, OR cut line of sight to the blade, have good lighting when you cut. It also matters how critical the cut needs to be.
I use a laser guide and squares.
I have watched a few “cut straight with a circular saw” videos. First thanks for saying use both leading edge indicator and the blade. The others only mention the blade. Second I noticed the fingers or thumb you left hand is guiding the saw at the start. Likely so natural for you don’t even notice you do it. Great instruction, Thanks!
Thanks mate! I noticed that about my off hand watching the footage- it does seem a bit dangerous so I wasn’t going to mention it. The key there is always keep your hand in front of the blade, because a circular saw will want to kick backwards. That also why I love the little battery saws, because of there lack of power they just stall out before they will kick back.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I meant that using your left hand to stablize the front of the saw at the start of the cut was a good thing. It made me think of how when hand sawing a dove tail guiding the saw on the first stroke with your thumb makes a huge difference. In a similar way, because it is a focused, soft push moment there really is no danger. In my opinion.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I don't think that's dangerous. just like your "don't let your fingers get in front of the table saw blade" tip, just don't let your fingers get behind the circular saw...for the exact same reason.
@@saltydroog854 most importantly, don’t let your finger be separated by the saw blade 😉
I use a Kreg Saw guide and measure the left side from the edge to the blade and clamp the guide to the wood, this allows be to mage an 8’ cut as straight as a panel saw. I don’t have room in my home shop for a panel saw. I really enjoyed this video. We can learn something every day. Thanks I I subscribed and liked this video.
I use a straight stick and 2 clamps works great for me
I thought you were gonna talk about compensating for kerf thickness since you were cutting on both sides of a line there. Maybe I missed it
I like checking the blade/notch position with a ruler! Thanks for the tip!
What about what to do if the blade isn't lined up with the notch? Great video!
You can make a mark with a black felt or etch something in there to help out.
@The Funny Carpenter oh. Dumb question on my part ha ha. I was thinking about adjusting or "trueing" the blade. Thanks!
Have a cheap old craftsman saw I 'fine tuned' the notch with a file for that very reason.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter: The real solution is to use the notch only for rough cuts. If you want accuracy, use a clamp-on straightedge cutting guide ($20.00) or follow the actual blade, not the notch.
@@Ian_Burt: That’s great but how do you un-file it if it’s out of alignment the other way, lol.
On the first cut, isn't the blade cutting on the inside of the piece you'll be using? Shouldn't it cut outside? I mean the final piece of wood is going to be 1.5mm shorter than expected, unless you accounted for that when drawing the line.
What would be the right way to avoid that?
What you show is a good tip FOR THAT situation. My critique is that there are 6 possible trajectory alignments for any cutting situation DEPENDING ON SITUATION.
As a builder with a broad variety of cutting situations, one may at times need to cut to the LHS or RHS or centre of the line. And, one can be cutting with the wider saw sled on the waste or the keep side of the piece. Yes, your dual align tip is good, but some saws have a guide notch for LHS, RHS, or centre of blade tooth. Also blade teeth kerf can vary muchly (thick, thin) not always matching the notch perfectly. Life is never as simple as one YT demo.
What do I do if my blade does not line up with the notch on the guide? Can I adjust this?
Safety first ! Unplug or pull battery off before lining up notch to the blade with the straight edge
I found having confidence makes the straightest cut also great tip with the straight edge
good video. Except when my dad taught me to use a circular saw, there was significantly more cussing. I think 95% of people get that wrong, if you are not cussing, you are not cutting.
Great video. Probably best to isolate the power if placing fingers anywhere near the blade.
I’ve been using a circular saw for decades and I’m part of the 85%…thanks for the tip!
Thanks for checking out the video Steve🍻
Geat video thanks. My OCD kept telling me to do the horizontal cut 1st to save wastage.
The alignment tip is great but you didn’t talk about setting the depth. You only want the teeth of the blade to just get through the thickness of the board. If you go deeper tou can bind the blade and cause it to chip out material.
I believe you want the entire gullet to exit the wood not just the teeth.
Deeper blade equals more accurate cut.
You Sir, are Awesome! I never could get the hang of the circular saw. I've done table saw work for 50 years but never was good with a circular saw. When you laid the rule down next to the blade, it all made sense and I have some catching up to do because I'm 67 years old! !! ! How do you like the 18v Makita? I'm thinking of getting one to replace my 45 year old Craftsman.
Another tip is to set the blade height correctly and not have far to much blade spinning below the wood as in this video because this increases tear out.
I agree , too much blade is dangerous .
Setting the depth to the thickness of the material reduces accuracy.
@@geoffprothero9408 setting it too deep is dangerous and causes tear out.
i've been cutting wrong all this time
*Thank You*
85% of people using percentages in video titles have 100% just used any random number.
😂 true
Hi there 👋, can you pls tell me what Makita model # that is? 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 I’ve been looking for one with the blade in the left side. I have the Makita with the blade on the right. 🤷♂️ I would just like to see where I’m cutting better. Thanks you sir. 🙏🏼
When I want a truly straight cut, I take the time to set up a guide. YES, it is a little more work but the more often you set up a guide the faster you get at doing it well. If you held a straight edge along the cut, you'd see just how not straight those cuts are :-). Freehand "straight" cutting never really is, though probably 90+% of the time it is good enough.
I will use a square to guide as much as possible. But on large cuts you have to free hand, great advice!
I see a few things I would call out on this one. #1 Set the depth of cut for the material you are cutting to prevent kickback. #2 Don't depend on the guard retracting at the end of the cut - you shouldn't set the saw down on the guard after you make the cut.
Thanks Dad...
I started cutting a few days ago. I wanted to “learn” so I cut simple 45 degree angles to miter 2x4s. Dude. I chewed it up. I kept trying and man it was awful. I just checked my saw and, sure enough! Great tip! Thanks!
Always take the battery out or unplug if power if you are dicking around near the blade
Hey love the content. I just brought a circular saw it's a Bosch corded one but only just noticed that your blade is on the opposite side to mine is there a correct side you should use? I am right handed. I"m new to power tools.
i always get squirrely when the front guide on the base plate reaches the end of my pencil line and i then have to focus solely on the blade for the last few inches of the cut... in your example i would tweak your suggestion by extending the angled pencil lines past the cross line so i can follow the plate guide through the entire cut... i know that's not always possible when you are cutting to the end of your workpiece but maybe even butt a sacrificial piece to end of the workpiece to extend the pencil cut line?..... thanks for the great video!!
Once the blade is sunk into the work it should track straight in the kerf. He points out that it's important to start out aligned with the cut. Because if you're off track to start off with then it's harder to get on the line and your kerf won't be tight then either. If I want a straight line I use a speed square. If I really want a straight line I leave some meat off the line and plane to the line. If I really don't care then I freehand the cut.
I hate my Ryobi circular saw. The plate angle is 1/16 off of parallel to the blade angle. The laser can't be adjusted, and isn't even close to where it cuts. Anything more than a feather touch of downward pressure causes a slight miter, and the rivets can't be tightened to stop it. The cherry on top is the blade height cannot be set below a certain point, as the tightening mechanism physically cannot generate enough pressure to hold it -- I get the full blade, or half an inch, nothing in between.
Any recommendations for a DIY/entry-level circular saw that doesn't suck?
Never have your hand/fingers adjacent or in front of the blade. If you look at his skilsaw you can see the handle his left hand should be on. Also the ruler should be set against the teeth not the blade to check the cut point, most blades have a kerf or welded teeth which stand proud of the blade on both sides.
Filing this under "Things I wish I knew 20 years ago." Thank you!
After I just dropped my saw this week on the concrete there’s no point lining up the front mark it’s of like 1/4” lol just watch the blade👍
I was hoping to learn something here, but I am very glad that all these helpful details are the stuff that I have been doing. Thumbs up!
Here’s a tip for you. The handle on the front of the saw is there for a reason.
Good tip nice and simple One thing iIwould say is extend you cut lines allows you to continue with your method past the end of you cut.
Circular saw you say...what a great idea. I have a triangular saw and it sucks! 😀
Triangle saws are for cutting circles. I bet you think I'm joking. Go look it up.
Thanks I'm going to try this method. I recorded a please help video yesterday and your video was sent to me today. Thanks again
I do a variation where I line the marker up well into the work and drop the blade down onto the line. That gives me a cut blade length at the beginning that's perfectly straight and stops the small wobble we can do sometimes that binds the blade up and can heat and warp it, which makes it really hard to be straight after that. Or a thick blade that won't warp is good too lol.
Now this is how a truly seasoned and experienced professional cut guy does it! Its the only way to be both quick and accurate. I rarely start off the work unless im cutting something short like cripples or studs...sheet goods are always line up, plunge, and go.
I loved this tip! My lines have never been cleaner and more accurate! Thanks
A free tip…..take your battery out before ever and I mean ever touching the blade!
Well since you mean it I guess I’ll do it
wish i saw this sooner, typing this with my nose rn
Amen!
I am thinking of purchasing a jigsaw or a circular saw, good thing I have been on this video and learnt that I need the circular saw because I am more of a straight cutter than a curve cutter
A jigsaw is way safer and you can get straight cuts with practice or use clamped on guide
Take the battery out first fella before u start lining up blade with guide mark. Safety 1st
If only this video has popped up in my recommendation before I had finished doing my gate 😂. Thx for the tips
Great Tip but....WHY is your free hand right next to the running blade @ 2:38 ?
I tried this when cutting a piece for a small cargo sled I am making. It doesnt work for that project guys. Only use this method for framing, cutting subfloors (inside), or replacement boat transoms(only for your friends boats) If you cut anything else(especially for personal use), be sure to use a guide to insure a nice straight cut. This guy really knows the projects this works best on.
Straight!? That was like 0.0004mm off! 😜
It was the pressure of the camera!🙄
Great tips. What model is this Makita circular saw? Like nice and compact for site use.