Looks great Professor! Glad you like the results with the hydropulper. I purchased a different used blender-also a Hamilton Beach-and the blade sits very low so I can process as little as 50 mls. Looking forward to the results!
Thanks for your uploads- this is helping me to understand some of problems I am having with my pulp. Quick question - what is the amount of formation aid powder and the amount of water you used to mix it?
Hi Don, 0.15 g Polyethylene Oxide in 100 mL of water. Mix well until a mucilage is formed and most particles are dissolved. This might take a few minutes or you can do this in a blender. Of that 100 mL, you use about 2-3 mL FA for a 100 mL of a 1-2% pulp base. And then mix well and wait 20 min before evaluating the viscosity and consistency. If more FA is needed, then you can add more then. I usually add 4-5 mL of FA to 200 mL of the 1-3% pulp recipe. More might make the pulp too viscous to dispense but play around with what suits your fiber the most.
Was that spine completely split through. I think I saw where Jerry and Larry would leave a 'gap' so that the pulp would have room to adhere. Not sure if I explained that property. I'm looking to do my first leaf caste and except for the staple holes is perfectly split and wonder if I can butt them together or leave a small gap. Thoughts?
Hi Alex, The issue of leaving a small gap or not depends on the book and width of the cover and how it'll ultimately match up with the interior. The spine on this Planet Comics was completely split and reattached with tape. To complicate matters further, the width of the cover varied by a few mm from top to bottom and that had to be evened out. So, after tape removal, there were many voids that couldn't match up and then some other matching areas but even though; to make the book perfectly aligned with the interior, I realigned its width so that it matches up well with the interior's width. It's something I did but didn't film. So, there was a gap. Your best bet is to measure your cover and assess its final width to match up well with the interior when flat - slightly wider than the interior because after the folding, it is likely for the edges to pull back. I also added an extra 10% extra fiber to the calculated amount. Then, when the furnish was done, I applied it evenly to the whole spine, best I can, and redistributed the fibers within he pulp so they looked even. After that covered it with Reemay and gently tapped to remove the excess water and gave it a good and long cold press. What happened is that the areas that got the furnish differed very slightly in width when measured with a caliper and were within the error range you would expect and not noticeable to the eye. Some overlapping areas were twice as thick as before but not by much - still within the accepted range. The folding was excellent, and the color match was also pretty good, imo. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!
Great job Peter! Very informative video!
Thank you so much, glad it was helpful!
Amazing work!
Thank you Jason, stay tuned for the results!
Looks awesome Peter! Looking forward to seeing the dried results!!!
Thank you, Jerry! And appreciate it. Stay tuned, my friend.
Looks great Professor! Glad you like the results with the hydropulper. I purchased a different used blender-also a Hamilton Beach-and the blade sits very low so I can process as little as 50 mls. Looking forward to the results!
Thank you again Dr Paul.!I’ll take a look next month and see if I can upgrade mine. Even processing 100 mL would be nice.
Thanks for your uploads- this is helping me to understand some of problems I am having with my pulp. Quick question - what is the amount of formation aid powder and the amount of water you used to mix it?
Hi Don, 0.15 g Polyethylene Oxide in 100 mL of water. Mix well until a mucilage is formed and most particles are dissolved. This might take a few minutes or you can do this in a blender. Of that 100 mL, you use about 2-3 mL FA for a 100 mL of a 1-2% pulp base. And then mix well and wait 20 min before evaluating the viscosity and consistency. If more FA is needed, then you can add more then. I usually add 4-5 mL of FA to 200 mL of the 1-3% pulp recipe. More might make the pulp too viscous to dispense but play around with what suits your fiber the most.
@@peteralachi3888 thanks for these details - looking forward to your next video
Was that spine completely split through. I think I saw where Jerry and Larry would leave a 'gap' so that the pulp would have room to adhere. Not sure if I explained that property. I'm looking to do my first leaf caste and except for the staple holes is perfectly split and wonder if I can butt them together or leave a small gap. Thoughts?
Hi Alex, The issue of leaving a small gap or not depends on the book and width of the cover and how it'll ultimately match up with the interior. The spine on this Planet Comics was completely split and reattached with tape. To complicate matters further, the width of the cover varied by a few mm from top to bottom and that had to be evened out. So, after tape removal, there were many voids that couldn't match up and then some other matching areas but even though; to make the book perfectly aligned with the interior, I realigned its width so that it matches up well with the interior's width. It's something I did but didn't film. So, there was a gap. Your best bet is to measure your cover and assess its final width to match up well with the interior when flat - slightly wider than the interior because after the folding, it is likely for the edges to pull back.
I also added an extra 10% extra fiber to the calculated amount. Then, when the furnish was done, I applied it evenly to the whole spine, best I can, and redistributed the fibers within he pulp so they looked even. After that covered it with Reemay and gently tapped to remove the excess water and gave it a good and long cold press. What happened is that the areas that got the furnish differed very slightly in width when measured with a caliper and were within the error range you would expect and not noticeable to the eye. Some overlapping areas were twice as thick as before but not by much - still within the accepted range. The folding was excellent, and the color match was also pretty good, imo.
Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!