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Indeed Jerry, though while there’s math, the method is still yours. You pioneered the no-suction method way back. And the end result is still the same with a stable cover and a cast that won’t fail. Stay tuned, there are actually a couple of surprises that I encountered in this leaf casting, which I will reveal next week. Thanks for watching, my friend.

I never miss your or Jerry’s videos. Different and similar approaches- valuable stuff!

Thank you Don, appreciate you as well! Stay tuned!

It’s not difficult, just takes practice to do. Appreciate you for stopping by!

Thanks Jason! Absolutely you can do it! It really isn’t a difficult technique after you get the tools and basics and practice a few times. I was hesitant to do it on expensive book but have achieved pretty good results after a few practice sessions.

Yes, indeed! Thanks for stopping by, Vuluu21816!

It’s great to work on Golden age, again, Jerry!

Thanks! The next step is going to be the math behind least casting, which was a real challenge.

Michale, I did take my time and the ink lifted at the end. Thank you for stopping by, Appreciate it.

Thanks Don, appreciate it!

Thank you, Jason. I really appreciate it. It came out nice.

Thank you, Dr. Paul. It is almost undetectable, which I like that. As far as the staining goes, it probably could’ve used more time in the bath. Appreciate you stopping by!

Thank you Dr Paul!

Thank you Dr Paul, appreciate it!

Thank you Dr. Paul! Your book is excellent, a treasure trove of important and needed for our growing community.

Yes, almost undetectable now. Thanks Michael!

Me too Jerry, it’s something you showed how to do years ago and I still do it. The first wrap always is slower to insert than the others. But after that it goes by fast. Thanks for watching, Jerry!

@ My pleasure Peter. Thank you again for a great upload.

Good morning Don, thank you for your nice comment and complement. As for the method, I actually do immersions more so than the Mat. And either one is fine for most books. I did opt for this method here because while it’s lengthy, it still gives you more control. The immersion bath is perhaps better overall if the paper is fairly acidic. The bath gives you more even treatment for where the CaOH2 solution penetrates the paper layers evenly and gets rid of the acid and schmutz. Here, I felt that with a pH being between 5-6, I can get more control over the targeted pH of 8 with the localized applications on a Mat and I can do all the sheets after that simultaneously and assess the tidelines better. I know most people probably don’t have the area for fast in situ treatment on multiple sheets and a bath would work well instead in those cases where you can do 2 sheets at a time as Dr Paul showed that in one video. I ended up spraying all the remaining sheets simultaneously in my kitchen area and it didn’t take too long. So it was just a matter of preference for this Ghosts book. But in my next series, I use the immersion method, because the paper was really acidic and the paper had a lot of dirt that is difficult to remove with just localized spraying. So stay tuned for that. The series starts next week.

I use both methods also and tend to use the mat on “fragile” wraps seem “thin”, have a lot of damage or when I anticipate some ink bleed. But, still learning - thanks

@@doncarter9467good point on the bleeding. I do the same. It’s good to start always on the mat and then move to the bath if there’s a need.

Thank you Jerry, stay tuned for the final results!

Hi Dr Paul, it definitely was, certain water damage is challenging and this was such a case.

I got a chuckle saying it lol thanks Dr Paul and happy new year!

Appreciate that Dr. Paul. Xmas Eve was at our neighbors and Xmas day was a quiet day, just as I wanted it to be! Not ready for students to come back next week yet lol

@ my daughters both headed back to school-was so nice to have them around for the holidays!

Thank you Dr. Paul, appreciate it. It was an excellent project that I was dreading doing but it went without any problem.

Thanks Jason. It was. Went by quick and with very little fiber went into the spine area and to support the edges. The split bottom got most of the furnish.

Thank you Micpar2. There’s potential for improvement for almost any book with water damage. And Bronze age is sturdy enough to work on. If this was silver age, it would’ve needed sizing.

Thank you Jerry! Yes. It’s pretty close and you really have to squint to see it after it’s pressed and dried.

Yeah, stationary wash first to loosen the tidelines and gage their resistance and then almost like a quick few minutes dip in the bath and out. The tidelines are gone.

Indeed Jerry, stay tuned my friend. Like night and day. Thanks for watching!

Hi Jason, yes, indeed, please stay tuned! The cover and interior look great now!

Good morning Don. Yes, the cover can be especially challenging when exposed to water. But Bronze Age DC fairs better than their Silver age when exposed to water. Stay tuned for the inner wraps which presented a special and unexpected challenge during the in situ washes and especially their pH measurements (video is coming up on Jan 7).

Thank you so much, Jerry, appreciate the complement. You are the gold standard so I borrow from you and appreciate you very much. I think the setup and proper angles and lighting are keys and have been keeping that in mind as I produce more videos. So, thank you again my friend for the kind words and happy new year!

Good morning Jerry, agreed! Thank you for stopping by and hope you had a wonderful vacation. Happy New Year to you and yours also!

Hi Alex, The issue of leaving a small gap or not depends on the book and width of the cover and how it'll ultimately match up with the interior. The spine on this Planet Comics was completely split and reattached with tape. To complicate matters further, the width of the cover varied by a few mm from top to bottom and that had to be evened out. So, after tape removal, there were many voids that couldn't match up and then some other matching areas but even though; to make the book perfectly aligned with the interior, I realigned its width so that it matches up well with the interior's width. It's something I did but didn't film. So, there was a gap. Your best bet is to measure your cover and assess its final width to match up well with the interior when flat - slightly wider than the interior because after the folding, it is likely for the edges to pull back. I also added an extra 10% extra fiber to the calculated amount. Then, when the furnish was done, I applied it evenly to the whole spine, best I can, and redistributed the fibers within he pulp so they looked even. After that covered it with Reemay and gently tapped to remove the excess water and gave it a good and long cold press. What happened is that the areas that got the furnish differed very slightly in width when measured with a caliper and were within the error range you would expect and not noticeable to the eye. Some overlapping areas were twice as thick as before but not by much - still within the accepted range. The folding was excellent, and the color match was also pretty good, imo. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!

It works really well on narrow areas and I use it with very little pressure!

Yes, definite improvement. Thanks so much for stopping by, Don!

Nice work Dr. Alachi!

@@vuluu2816 Thank you!

Good morning Jerry, thank you and Merry Xmas to you and yours also!

It's an excellent method, thanks Don and Merry Xmas!

Thank you for your prayers. Syria is multicultural and we’ll be ok if there’s no intervention in our society to cause sectarianism. Ahmad al-Sharaa seems like exactly what Syria needs at this juncture and the people are relieved that they can breath again. I wish him success at healing and prospering Syria.

Good morning, Jerry, definitely an excellent method and gum erasers have been shown to be good at picking up surface dirt and muck without harming the colors when used very lightly.

Thank you, Captain! It did indeed. I might send it in to CGC after the Holidays just out of curiosity.

Thank you Allan. It’s important indeed. Fingers crossed it will survive that long!

Thank you again Dr Paul.!I’ll take a look next month and see if I can upgrade mine. Even processing 100 mL would be nice.

That’s great Dr. Paul, now that the book is ready, you’ll have some time. I’m looking forward to seeing all of your new episodes and techniques!

Many thanks, my friend. Yeah, I tend to keep my videos short and to the point so appreciate your comment.

Thank you so much, appreciate it.

Good morning, Jerry, appreciate it so much. It does present well. It’s one of the books I plan to submit to CGC at some point, yes!

Looks nice - spine looks great. Love seeing your work

@@doncarter9467thank you so much, Don. Appreciate it very much!

Thank you Jason, stay tuned for the results!

Thank you so much, glad it was helpful!

Hi Don, 0.15 g Polyethylene Oxide in 100 mL of water. Mix well until a mucilage is formed and most particles are dissolved. This might take a few minutes or you can do this in a blender. Of that 100 mL, you use about 2-3 mL FA for a 100 mL of a 1-2% pulp base. And then mix well and wait 20 min before evaluating the viscosity and consistency. If more FA is needed, then you can add more then. I usually add 4-5 mL of FA to 200 mL of the 1-3% pulp recipe. More might make the pulp too viscous to dispense but play around with what suits your fiber the most.

@@peteralachi3888 thanks for these details - looking forward to your next video

Thank you, Jerry! And appreciate it. Stay tuned, my friend.

Thank you Jerry, stay tuned my friend!

Hi Don! Glad it was helpful!