I've bought a kit on ebay Germany. ( ebay.de ) there was the comparator the two adapters and two special tools for the vw engines : for the injection pump pulley and the camshaft here the name of the kit : Einstellwerkzeug Diesel Einspritzpumpe Bosch VW Audi it was cheap and the quality is enough for a personnal and occasionnal use. of course you can buy those tools from big manufacturers hazet,facom etc... but they are a way more expensive and sold separately. Thanks for your comment !
Ok. You turn your engine anticlockwise till YOU PASS the -25° mark. Then you turn it clockwise to STOP just on the -25° mark. now you set the dial indicator to 0. Then you turn the engine anticlockwise to STOP on the -3° mark. The pump is loosen yet and you turn it to have 0.5mm on the dial indicator. You tighten the pump. You check with the exact same method because you have to go back to pass -25° each time to be sure you have no play in the gears to have an accurate synchronisation
1 First you turn anticlockwise to be sure you eliminate the gear backlash. you have to pass the -25 degrees mark on the flywheel. 2 then you turn in the normal direction to go to the -25 degrees mark on the flywheel. 3 You loosen the pump and set the dial indicator on 0 (zero). 4 You turn the engine anticlockwise to the -3 degrees mark on the flywheel. 5 You move the pump to have 0.55 millimeters on the dial indicator. 6 you tighten the pump.
Important!!! If you are going to do this i recommend you to : Install timing belt if not installed. Set flywheel to zero , and you need to have the cam blocking plate + feeler gauge at place otherwise its 50/50 chance you set the engine 180 degrees wrong. Now put the rear cam gear on. Attach the Pump belt and adjust the pump in height so that the belt is properly streched before you start adjusting the pump sideways. Slacken the inner bolt for the coldstart thermostat wire, and turn the outer clamp 90 degrees so it fits inside the inner clamp. Put in a 15mm pipe inside the hole made for it in the pump gear /pump bracket. Now attach the dial indicator and set the engine to 0.70mm for n/a engines or 0.90 for turbo engines lift at tdc(0 at flywheel). (you can change the lift by turning the pump sideways after loosing the 3 bolts) Tighten the 3 bolts and put back the cold start thermostat wire in the reverse order you took it loose. Now attempt to start the enigine Good luck!
Thank you so much for this video! After a full belt service on my LT1 it was hardly starting and running, after using you method to fine tune the pump, it now runs as it should :-D
Hi. The camshaft is locked with a special tool for the timing belt only. Once the timing is done and okay : the cranckshaft and camshaft are synchronised. Then, you only use the mark on the flywheel to set the injection pump. You can slide the special tool if you want just to check but you have to remove it anyway to install the injection pump pulley. There are no keyway on this engine. all is free to rotate so you have to start by one mark somewhere and synchronise the rest.
As i know timing lights are for high pressure injection pumps and when you test the dynamic setting. Here it's mechanical,no need this fancy tool : ) The tool can be bought/found quite easily. HAZET brand tool do it i'm pretty sure like facom,ks tools etc. You can find it on ebay for very cheap. It's just a" bosch VE adaptor" for a dial indicator. Link posted.
Yes it is the same engine. Here it's just a naturaly aspirated from a 240. It's a 80 hp D24. The head on the combustion chamber zone is flat. On the turbo version it's a bit machined. The compression ratio is just a bit lower on a d24T.
Yes for the metal plate. for the volvo diesel or volskwagen LT engine you have to use a 20/100 gauge under it on the injection pump side to have an accurate timing. The pin in the pulley of the injection pump is quite useless. it's only here for timing more or less the timing belt before to remove it for replacement. it's not accurate. If you want the service shop manual i can give you a link.
It's a static tuning : that mean the setting will not advance itself with the increase of RPM. it's a "primitive" system but it works very well and is, very, very reliable. Look on "scribd" on my account " michaelovitch " there is a detailled document about rotative fuel pumps. : )
Inside the pump there is a cam. each lobe of the cam allow to distribute fuel. The profile of each lobe allow a maximum duration and a quantity of pumped fuel. the pump send always the maximum quantity. The inectors are others independent components. injectors have a specific sized nozzle and a specific pressure at wich they spray fuel.
I wanted a tool to do my engine. I did not however want to pay the moneys thay asked for as I could only seem to buy sets compleat for around £150 alot of money to pay to do a job I probobly will not have to ever do again. I therefore made my own, it took me three hours in the garage. Works great now using it. Take a look on my site to see the home made tool. Dear tool to do a more or less simple job. Cheers pete
at TDC you should have between 0.16 et 0.18 mm. Whan they say "do not attempt to rotate pump in oposite direccion and start from before TDC" it's to be sure you are accurate if there is some play in the timing gears. Always check several times and always pass with anticlockwise rotation the -25° mark to check.
I know this method too. Here It's not a waste of time. It's just different and the "official" method. In the two methods you loosen and rotate something so... Not all the vehicles have a free camshaft pulley, most of them have a key on the cam and on them you only can rotate the pump.
the number -25 is degrees (on your flywheel ) it's just a mark you use to turn your engine anticlockwise. 0.55 is on your dial indicator it's in mm. it's two different things.
Yes its a VM 2.5, ok they say this : Rotate the pump until 0.55 mm is indicated on the dial indicator gauge. If while rotating the pump the 0.55 mm specification is passed do not attempt to rotate the pump in the opposite direction. You must rotate the pump back below the 0.25 mm specification and start the procedure over from the start of the TDC procedure. This will prevent a false reading due to gear backlash......
1- You preload on TDC, you zero the dial gauge. (you are sure all is in contact tool /pump) you turn back the engine and come in normal rotation on TDC. If the pump is set correctly yet you find the good value. If not you stay on TDC and turn the pump to find the good value on the gauge. 2- 1/8 is just to give an idea You can go back 1/4 of cranckshaft turn if you want. The point is not to see the needle moving on the gauge anymore once you went back enough You eliminate the backlash/gap
Thank so much for you video. I have a 1978 VW 1.6 cc. Rabbit diesel. I did exactly what you did the engine is working now, but the RPM are to high and making a lot smog. I want to ask you if the pump need to adjust. I really appreciated if you can help me in this matter.
The value of timing used here is maybe not correct for your engine. You need to look at your car shop manual to get the appropriate value. Are you sure the timing belt is set properly before adjusting the pump ?
You have to know what type of injection pump you have on this engine. if it's a VE pump it should be ok. it's written on it. i don't want to give you bad informations. the better thing to do is to check the size of the hole between the hard lines outlets on your pump. you will can see the size of the tread. you could ask directly to the seller on ebay.
i undestand now man...thankx for your time and you really help me. Im just woarking now in gett a dial gauge whish not easy , mechanics here it seems they dont use that but i whant to do it propeply . Should be possible i buy only the dial gauge whitout the adapters and find a way to bulit or adapt myself ? Can you tell me the lenght of the adapter goes into the pump? maybe its a stupid ideia but i know i will have probs fouding this , but whitout adapters i guess its easier....bye man
Hi. Very good video. You know, I'm just wondering in two things: 1, Where has the engine to be set at, when you preload the dial gauge? I mean just when you have inserted the dial, before you turn it to TDC. Or is it already on TDC when you insert the Dial, then you back the motor 1/8 revolution and return it to TDC? 2, How do you know exactly when you've rotated the engine 1/8 of a revolution? By the way, I have a Volvo 760 with a D24T motor in it. This looks like one too. Best Regards, Ragnar
TO check : You start from the beginning again without touching the pump just to check the dial indicator number. On the dial indicator you have 0.55 if it's properly adjusted. If you have more or less than 0.55 you start again since the beginning (to be sure you eliminate the gear backlash.) Do you understand or have you got a question ? i think they did a mistake yes. there is degrees and mm to adjust. 0.55 is in mm and -25 is in degrees. they fucked up or it's the printer guy....
im portuguese and sorry my language but i will trie make you undestand my question:i have a jeep cherokee and i have the manual about the injection pump however there is something i cant undestand when they say if adjusting the pump we pass the right nunber (0.55 in my case)do not attempt to rotate pump in oposite direccion and start from before TDC ;so to restart again if i dont rotate de pump in oposite direccion what do i do to begin in my 0.25 before TDC? rotate de crank again counter-clock?
Nice Video, Would the same procedure work on a Mercedes gasoline injector pump for example the 1962 220se Coupe (W111 Chassis)?.. If not, can you give any info o those pumps?
I really don't know. it's a mechanical injection pump too even if gas is squirted. So i guess a specific timing is required if the pump can rotate. I suggest you to search for a manual like a haynes or similar. Look at vv vv vv sl113 dot org there are explanations and procedures that can help you. = )
I slackened the high pressure lines and finally was able to tilt the pump outward using a pry bar gently agaisnt the block. Now my timing is way too low, and I can't find a way to tilt the pump back in.
Hi, what if the pump is not in the correct timing of TDC from the start? Should I rotate the pump clockwise before fuel shooting out of the #1 injector or the after? Before correcting the timing
Hi. If it's not correct from the start according to the value on the dial indicator it's simple,you re tune it completly from the start : There is backlash in the gears of the pump and a very tiny play in the engine itself. You HAVE TO tune it from the start again each time you mess up or if the value is not good.
Great video thanks for sharing, I'm attempting to do this myself but on my T4 abl, but fitting the aaz mechanical pump, will the gauge setting for the pump still 80? Also going to check my abl pump before I change the pump, so you happen to know the setting for the original abl pump by chance? Thanks in advance
Thank you : ) The injection timing value depends on your engine,its injectors release pressure,the fact it's equipped with a turbo or not,how many hp it produces,the pump is just a pump,pumping fuel. I don't know the value for your set up. You have the specification in the technical book for sure.
Another thing in my jeep too is that i dont have degrees marks there ....i know after i rotate anti-clock and dial gauge stops moving i will have about 025º but because they say in manual should be
And so if ,lets imagine i pass after 0.55mm, i cant rotate oposite to gett again 0.25mm, they wrrite i should rotate back below and start procedure , what i dont gett it its how i rotate , if not in oposite how can i gett the 025mm again? Should they had did a mistake wrriting in the manula about 025mm and the correct should be 025º ? because the 025º they talk its only before TDC after dial gauge stops , never 025mm ......thankx man ....thankx about your attencion
Hi. Are you sure that TDC of this engine is at the "0" Mark on the Flywheel and not on the "Line" before the "0" ? I Think too, its the "0" - But do you know , what the "Line" is for ? Greetings :)
Hi : ) On this engine the tdc is the zero. The line is used for an other engine with the same flywheel. This other engine is the d20 : a 5 cylinders. In the video it's a 6 cylinders the d24. so the marks are quite near since the angular position is a bit different from 5 to 6 cylinders. The important is to find the tdc whatever the engine. You always have a mark,a slot ,a dot punched . : )
It is unnecessary to rotate the pump, this method is a waste of time. You can do the full adjustment by rotating the rear camshaft sprocket, by loosening the bolt into the camshaft. Rotate until you see min reading, then turn clockwise (facing rear of vehicle) until desired reading shows up on dial indicator.
I've bought a kit on ebay Germany. ( ebay.de )
there was the comparator the two adapters and two special tools for the vw engines : for the injection pump pulley and the camshaft
here the name of the kit :
Einstellwerkzeug Diesel Einspritzpumpe Bosch VW Audi
it was cheap and the quality is enough for a personnal and occasionnal use.
of course you can buy those tools from big manufacturers hazet,facom etc... but they are a way more expensive and sold separately.
Thanks for your comment !
Ok.
You turn your engine anticlockwise till YOU PASS the -25° mark.
Then you turn it clockwise to STOP just on the -25° mark.
now you set the dial indicator to 0.
Then you turn the engine anticlockwise to STOP on the -3° mark.
The pump is loosen yet and you turn it to have 0.5mm on the dial indicator.
You tighten the pump.
You check with the exact same method because you have to go back to pass -25° each time to be sure you have no play in the gears to have an accurate synchronisation
1 First you turn anticlockwise to be sure you eliminate the gear backlash.
you have to pass the -25 degrees mark on the flywheel.
2 then you turn in the normal direction to go to the -25 degrees mark on the flywheel.
3 You loosen the pump and set the dial indicator on 0 (zero).
4 You turn the engine anticlockwise to the -3 degrees mark on the flywheel.
5 You move the pump to have 0.55 millimeters on the dial indicator.
6 you tighten the pump.
Important!!! If you are going to do this i recommend you to :
Install timing belt if not installed.
Set flywheel to zero , and you need to have the cam blocking plate + feeler gauge at place otherwise its 50/50 chance you set the engine 180 degrees wrong.
Now put the rear cam gear on.
Attach the Pump belt and adjust the pump in height so that the belt is properly streched before you start adjusting the pump sideways.
Slacken the inner bolt for the coldstart thermostat wire, and turn the outer clamp 90 degrees so it fits inside the inner clamp.
Put in a 15mm pipe inside the hole made for it in the pump gear /pump bracket.
Now attach the dial indicator and set the engine to 0.70mm for n/a engines or 0.90 for turbo engines lift at tdc(0 at flywheel). (you can change the lift by turning the pump sideways after loosing the 3 bolts)
Tighten the 3 bolts and put back the cold start thermostat wire in the reverse order you took it loose.
Now attempt to start the enigine
Good luck!
Thank you so much for this video! After a full belt service on my LT1 it was hardly starting and running, after using you method to fine tune the pump, it now runs as it should :-D
: )
Hi.
The camshaft is locked with a special tool for the timing belt only.
Once the timing is done and okay : the cranckshaft and camshaft are synchronised.
Then, you only use the mark on the flywheel to set the injection pump.
You can slide the special tool if you want just to check but you have to remove it anyway to install the injection pump pulley.
There are no keyway on this engine. all is free to rotate so you have to start by one mark somewhere and synchronise the rest.
As i know timing lights are for high pressure injection pumps and when you test the dynamic setting.
Here it's mechanical,no need this fancy tool : )
The tool can be bought/found quite easily.
HAZET brand tool do it i'm pretty sure like facom,ks tools etc.
You can find it on ebay for very cheap.
It's just a" bosch VE adaptor" for a dial indicator.
Link posted.
Yes it is the same engine.
Here it's just a naturaly aspirated from a 240.
It's a 80 hp D24.
The head on the combustion chamber zone is flat.
On the turbo version it's a bit machined.
The compression ratio is just a bit lower on a d24T.
Yes for the metal plate.
for the volvo diesel or volskwagen LT engine you have to use a 20/100 gauge under it on the injection pump side to have an accurate timing.
The pin in the pulley of the injection pump is quite useless.
it's only here for timing more or less the timing belt before to remove it for replacement.
it's not accurate.
If you want the service shop manual i can give you a link.
It's a static tuning : that mean the setting will not advance itself with the increase of RPM.
it's a "primitive" system but it works very well and is, very, very reliable.
Look on "scribd" on my account " michaelovitch " there is a detailled document about rotative fuel pumps. : )
Inside the pump there is a cam.
each lobe of the cam allow to distribute fuel.
The profile of each lobe allow a maximum duration and a quantity of pumped fuel.
the pump send always the maximum quantity.
The inectors are others independent components.
injectors have a specific sized nozzle and a specific pressure at wich they spray fuel.
I wanted a tool to do my engine. I did not however want to pay the moneys thay asked for as I could only seem to buy sets compleat for around £150 alot of money to pay to do a job I probobly will not have to ever do again. I therefore made my own, it took me three hours in the garage. Works great now using it. Take a look on my site to see the home made tool. Dear tool to do a more or less simple job. Cheers pete
I hope this helped you !
The benefit of the pulley method is to avoid to create a tension on the injectors steel lines.
That's a good thing.
Thanks for the useful comment : )
the ve205 copy is manufactured 180 off ! at least mine was what a piece of work!
at TDC you should have between 0.16 et 0.18 mm.
Whan they say "do not attempt to rotate pump in oposite direccion and start from before TDC" it's to be sure you are accurate if there is some play in the timing gears.
Always check several times and always pass with anticlockwise rotation the -25° mark to check.
I know this method too.
Here It's not a waste of time.
It's just different and the "official" method.
In the two methods you loosen and rotate something so...
Not all the vehicles have a free camshaft pulley, most of them have a key on the cam and on them you only can rotate the pump.
the number -25 is degrees (on your flywheel ) it's just a mark you use to turn your engine anticlockwise.
0.55 is on your dial indicator it's in mm.
it's two different things.
Yes its a VM 2.5, ok they say this : Rotate the pump until 0.55 mm is indicated
on the dial indicator gauge. If while rotating the
pump the 0.55 mm specification is passed do not
attempt to rotate the pump in the opposite direction.
You must rotate the pump back below the
0.25 mm specification and start the procedure over
from the start of the TDC procedure. This will prevent
a false reading due to gear backlash......
Yes please that would be great. Thanks.
Also good job on your video mate
There are English manuals on my account...
it's the official volvo repair manuals in English.
search a bit.
they are here i just checked again.
Thank you !
happy to help you !
At each timing belt you have to reset the injection pump to have accurate timing.
And change the water pump wich is the belt tensionner. : )
1- You preload on TDC, you zero the dial gauge.
(you are sure all is in contact tool /pump)
you turn back the engine and come in normal rotation on TDC.
If the pump is set correctly yet you find the good value.
If not you stay on TDC and turn the pump to find the good value on the gauge.
2- 1/8 is just to give an idea
You can go back 1/4 of cranckshaft turn if you want.
The point is not to see the needle moving on the gauge anymore once you went back enough
You eliminate the backlash/gap
Thanks to you !
@gilesmortimer
Thanks !
Thank so much for you video. I have a 1978 VW 1.6 cc. Rabbit diesel. I did exactly what you did the engine is working now, but the RPM are to high and making a lot smog. I want to ask you if the pump need to adjust. I really appreciated if you can help me in this matter.
The value of timing used here is maybe not correct for your engine.
You need to look at your car shop manual to get the appropriate value.
Are you sure the timing belt is set properly before adjusting the pump ?
Thank you, cheers
Thanks : )
You have to know what type of injection pump you have on this engine.
if it's a VE pump it should be ok.
it's written on it.
i don't want to give you bad informations.
the better thing to do is to check the size of the hole between the hard lines outlets on your pump.
you will can see the size of the tread.
you could ask directly to the seller on ebay.
@gilesmortimer
Look at my others videos !
i'm finishing a d24 NA and i'm rebuilding a TIC one too !
i undestand now man...thankx for your time and you really help me.
Im just woarking now in gett a dial gauge whish not easy , mechanics here it seems they dont use that but i whant to do it propeply . Should be possible i buy only the dial gauge whitout the adapters and find a way to bulit or adapt myself ? Can you tell me the lenght of the adapter goes into the pump? maybe its a stupid ideia but i know i will have probs fouding this , but whitout adapters i guess its easier....bye man
That's cool : )
Do you have marks on the engine to use ?
can you write me exactly what they tell you to do ?
I think i don't understand exactly.
The tool is a metal plate which goes in the end of the camshaft after removing the rocker cover? Do you need to put the pin in the pump pulley?
VM Motori have you worked with such engines? and such fuel injection pumps?
No.
Do you have a problem ?
Oh Ok.
i don't know if it will work.
Not the same engine....
My vid is for indirect injection diesel with a VE pump.
Thanks a lot for the help!
Hi. Very good video. You know, I'm just wondering in two things:
1, Where has the engine to be set at, when you preload the dial gauge? I mean just when you have inserted the dial, before you turn it to TDC.
Or is it already on TDC when you insert the Dial, then you back the motor 1/8 revolution and return it to TDC?
2, How do you know exactly when you've rotated the engine 1/8 of a revolution?
By the way, I have a Volvo 760 with a D24T motor in it. This looks like one too.
Best Regards, Ragnar
hey man,what exactly drives fuel injectors to inject fuel at the right time,is that some camshaft or something like that??thanks
What are the year and engine type please ?
TO check : You start from the beginning again without touching the pump just to check the dial indicator number.
On the dial indicator you have 0.55 if it's properly adjusted.
If you have more or less than 0.55 you start again since the beginning (to be sure you eliminate the gear backlash.)
Do you understand or have you got a question ?
i think they did a mistake yes.
there is degrees and mm to adjust.
0.55 is in mm and -25 is in degrees.
they fucked up or it's the printer guy....
im portuguese and sorry my language but i will trie make you undestand my question:i have a jeep cherokee and i have the manual about the injection pump however there is something i cant undestand when they say if adjusting the pump we pass the right nunber (0.55 in my case)do not attempt to rotate pump in oposite direccion and start from before TDC ;so to restart again if i dont rotate de pump in oposite direccion what do i do to begin in my 0.25 before TDC? rotate de crank again counter-clock?
Nice Video, Would the same procedure work on a Mercedes gasoline injector pump for example the 1962 220se Coupe (W111 Chassis)?.. If not, can you give any info o those pumps?
It's a VM engine 2.5 right ?
Do you have a D24 Volvo engine rebuild coming?
I really don't know.
it's a mechanical injection pump too even if gas is squirted.
So i guess a specific timing is required if the pump can rotate.
I suggest you to search for a manual like a haynes or similar.
Look at vv vv vv sl113 dot org there are explanations and procedures that can help you. = )
I've sent you a link on your message box.
You can buy or make the adaptor yes.
Are there only three bolts to slacken on the pump? I loosened all three and the pump won't budge.
On this set up,yes,only three.
Rmember the high pressure lines offer some resistance.
I slackened the high pressure lines and finally was able to tilt the pump outward using a pry bar gently agaisnt the block. Now my timing is way too low, and I can't find a way to tilt the pump back in.
You can tap it gently on the upper part with a block of wood,or a dead weight hammer.
Hi,
Do you not need to lock the camshaft before doing this?
Hi, what if the pump is not in the correct timing of TDC from the start? Should I rotate the pump clockwise before fuel shooting out of the #1 injector or the after? Before correcting the timing
Hi.
If it's not correct from the start according to the value on the dial indicator it's simple,you re tune it completly from the start :
There is backlash in the gears of the pump and a very tiny play in the engine itself.
You HAVE TO tune it from the start again each time you mess up or if the value is not good.
thank you!
Great video thanks for sharing, I'm attempting to do this myself but on my T4 abl, but fitting the aaz mechanical pump, will the gauge setting for the pump still 80? Also going to check my abl pump before I change the pump, so you happen to know the setting for the original abl pump by chance? Thanks in advance
Thank you : )
The injection timing value depends on your engine,its injectors release pressure,the fact it's equipped with a turbo or not,how many hp it produces,the pump is just a pump,pumping fuel.
I don't know the value for your set up.
You have the specification in the technical book for sure.
Informative!
Another thing in my jeep too is that i dont have degrees marks there ....i know after i rotate anti-clock and dial gauge stops moving i will have about 025º but because they say in manual should be
Thanks for that, appreciate it :-)
And so if ,lets imagine i pass after 0.55mm, i cant rotate oposite to gett again 0.25mm, they wrrite i should rotate back below and start procedure , what i dont gett it its how i rotate , if not in oposite how can i gett the 025mm again? Should they had did a mistake wrriting in the manula about 025mm and the correct should be 025º ? because the 025º they talk its only before TDC after dial gauge stops , never 025mm ......thankx man ....thankx about your attencion
Hi.
Are you sure that TDC of this engine is at the "0" Mark on the Flywheel and not on the "Line" before the "0" ?
I Think too, its the "0" - But do you know , what the "Line" is for ?
Greetings :)
Hi : )
On this engine the tdc is the zero.
The line is used for an other engine with the same flywheel.
This other engine is the d20 : a 5 cylinders.
In the video it's a 6 cylinders the d24.
so the marks are quite near since the angular position is a bit different from 5 to 6 cylinders.
The important is to find the tdc whatever the engine.
You always have a mark,a slot ,a dot punched .
: )
michaelovitch Hi, Okay, Thanks alot for this Information :)
Hi. Do you know what the specifications are for a d24t?
BELLO VEDERE FARE IL MIO LAVORO DI POMPISTA
Have a smooth work.
where would i purchase a gauge from
For this engine or pump in particular ?
Good
مشاءاللله
Thank you : )
can u give me dimensions of this tube to make it in home pls ?
Wich tube ?
نرجو من القناة الكريمة الترجمة للغة العربية ففي ذلك منفعة كبيرة
You want me to use the translator option,or you are saying it's working well ?
ПРИКОЛЬНА
I sent you a message with the adress. : )
Je nei comprehende pas ca' lol as you can see a long time since french lessons at school
: )
VW T4 Transporter
SETTING OPPURE
OTTING
i sent you a message too to your mail box about what they have wrrite in the manuak ok...bye and thankx
What name instrumen presgauge
+eko wahyusaputra
For wich country ?
in english "comparator"
It is unnecessary to rotate the pump, this method is a waste of time. You can do the full adjustment by rotating the rear camshaft sprocket, by loosening the bolt into the camshaft. Rotate until you see min reading, then turn clockwise (facing rear of vehicle) until desired reading shows up on dial indicator.